THE 

PEACTICAL GARDENER, 

AND 

CONTAINING 

THE LATEST AND MOST APPROVED METHODS FOR THE 
MANAGEMENT OF THE 

KITCHEN, FRUIT, AND FLOWER-GARDEN, THE 
GREEN-HOUSE, HOT-HOUSE, &c. &c. - . 

FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR; 
Each Department being distinctly and separately arranged ; 

ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS DESIGNS OF THE MOST ELIGIBLE PLANS 
FOR THE FORMATION OF 

KITCHEN AND PLEASURE-GARDENS, 

THE ERECTION OF HOT-HOUSES, HOT-BEDS, GREEN-HOUSES, 
CONSERVATORIES, WALLS, FENCES, &c. &c. 

INCLUDING THE 

NEW METHOD OF HEATING FORCING-HOUSES WITH 
HOT WATER ONLY; 

FORMING 

A COMPLETE SYSTEM OF MODERN PRACTICE, IN THE VARIOUS 
BRANCHES OF HORTICULTURAL SCIENCE. 



EMBELLISHED WITH HIGHLY- FINISHED ENGRAVINGS OF SOME OF THE MO^ I 
CHOICE AND VALUABLE FRUITS AND FLOWERS NOW 
CULTIVATED IN THIS COUNTRY. 



By CHARLES INTOSH, C.M.C.H.S. 

LaU Gardener to the Right Honorable the Earl of Braedalbane, and Sir Thomas Banny, Bart., 
M.F., Sfc. Sfc. and now Head Gardenei to the King of Belgium, at Claremonc. 



SIXTH EDITION. 



VOL. L-^s^ 



LONDON: 
PRINTED FOR THOMAS KELLY, 17, PATERNOSTER ROW. 



1836. 



Lcadouj J. Kider, I'xintcr, 14, Baitboloiuew Llobo. 



PREFACE. 



Amongst the various pursuits which occupy the attention of man, 
whether considered in regard to profit or amusement, few hold a 
more distinguished place than Horticulture. Even in the primeval 
ages of the world, before luxury had established its controul over 
every relation of human life, and the wants and necessities of man 
were confined to the immediate productions of his native soil, we 
even then find, that the culture of the garden was one of the pri- 
mary objects of his industry, and the principal source on which he 
depended for his subsistence. With the lapse of years, the benefits 
of Horticulture gradually developed themselves, and the pages of 
history furnish us with innumerable examples, of the great and im- 
portant advantages which have resulted to a country, in which its 
princes and nobility have applied themselves to the study of 
practical Horticulture, thereby opening fresh sources of national 
grandeur, and enlarging the sphere of individual prosperity. 
Grateful, however, as we ought to be to such exalted characters, 
who, indifferent to the elevated station in which their destiny 
has placed them, have boldly shaken off the fetters thrown over 
them by ignorance and prejudice, and have descended from " their 
high estate " to vAeid the spade and plough ; yet our thanks 
are still more pre-eminently due to such men as a Bacon, 
an Evelyn, and a Piatt, who have not only, by the transcendant 
power of their abilities, penetrated into the arcana of agricultural 
and botanical science, but who have also, by their invaluable writ- 
ings, transmitted to us the results of their laborious researches, and 
thereby laid the foundation to those important discoveries in the 
practical management of the garden for which the present age is so 
happily distinguished. 

Agriculture, and with it its twin -sister. Horticulture, may be 
considered as the immediate precursors of human civilization ; and 
we find that all nations advanced in general and individual pros* 
perity, in proportion to their progress in, and to their attachment 
to agricultural pursuits. The native beholds his fields ripening with 
corn —his vineyards blushing with the grape— the spirit of patriot- 



5v 



PREFACE. 



ism arises in him — his love of industry is awakened, and his 
country is enriched by his labors. Wherever the earth is richly 
cultivated, there plenty and happiness abound — the desert becomes 
peopled — the barren waste is transformed into golden fields of corn 
and the orchards and the gardens teem with their luscious fruits. 

Horticulture has, within these few years, made more rapid 
advances towards perfection, than perhaps any other science, 
but it is a principle, which cannot be too forcibly and fre- 
quently impressed on the mind of those, who undertake the 
cultivation of a field or garden, that with the possession of 
mere theoretical knowledge, a positive failure must be the 
consequence. The knowledge of the management of a garden 
is not to be obtained by pertinaciously adhering to one particu- 
lar system, however recommended by high and celebrated names. 
There are various and other important points to be taken into con- 
sideration, the particular knowledge of which is only to be acquired 
by the most constant perseverance and the most unremitting indus- 
try, and by reducing the principles of theory to the certain and 
infallible test of 'practice. But how is this knowledge to be ac- 
quired ? how is it to be obtained at an expense which the limited 
income of the gardener or the peasant will enable him to bear ? 
The answer is obvious : it is only to be acquired by closely attend- 
ing to the rules and precepts laid down by those eminent men, who 
have made the science of Horticulture their sole study, who have 
had time and ability to examine the systems and the experiments of 
others, and who, by their indefatigable industry, have penetrated 
into the mysteries of nature, and wrested from her, as it were by 
force, those secrets, which she seemed determined should never be 
disclosed. 

We disclaim all intention of decrying or depreciating the labors 
of those, who have preceded us in the important task wliich we have 
at present undertaken. The systems which they laid down for the 
management of a garden were probably the most proper, and the 
best adapted to the limited knowledge and experience of the times 
in which they lived; but as the spirit of discovery proceeded, 
and the light of improvement was more generally diffused, 
the ancient systems gradually gave way, and in process of time 
were utterly exploded. Were a gardener of the middle 'of the 
eighteenth century to be suddenly placed in a garden cultivated 
on the principles of the present day, his surprise would perhaps be 
as great as that of the untutored savage on seeing a gigantic fabric 
moving on the waters of the ocean, impelled by a little steam 



PREFACE. 



arising from a cauldron of boiling water. An Abercromby, a 
Miller, a M'Phail, and a Nicol, have, it must be acknowledged, 
contributed much to enlarge the sphere of our horticultural know- 
ledge, and we readily and willingly offer them the meed of merit 
for the benefit which the country has derived from their labors ; 
it must, however, be admitted, that the channels through which 
their discoveries and improvements have been hitherto dissemi- 
nated through the country, are placed beyond the reach of the 
middhng or lower classes, by the great expense with which the pur- 
chase of them is attended. The transactions of the Horticultural 
Society, however valuable and useful they may be to noblemen and 
gentlemen, are only circulated within the sphere of a chosen few, 
and are by far too expensive to become the property of persons of 
moderate fortune. In the purchase of those works, excellent as 
they may be in their kind, and highly useful as they may prove 
to the scientific or experimental Horticulturist, the mere simple 
Gardener, to whom the principles of practice are alone valuable, 
would find, that to obtain the single grain of corn of which he 
vv'as in search, he has also bought a mass of extraneous matter, 
destitute to him of all benefit and utility. 

It becomes therefore a desideratum, that a work should be circu- 
' lated, in which those defects are remedied ; in which the entire sys- 
tem of practical science is laid down in the most clear and explicit 
terms, and in which the nobleman, as well as the more humble 
operative gardener, may, at one glance, survey the experience and 
knowledge of the most celebrated practical men, and find those 
valuable rules laid down for their guidance in the management of 
their gardens, on which must depend the plenty and excellence of 
their produce. 

The principles which should be particularly attended to in the 
compilation of such a work, and which will be found to have been 
invariably adhered to in the present instance, are conciseness, per- 
spicuity, clearness of definition, a total absence of all abstruse and 
useless terms, and a general attention to the explanation of those 
minutise of horticultural science, which must necessarily render a 
work of this kind so invaluable to every individual, who takes upon 
himself the management of a garden, whether for amusement or for 
profit. We discard from our pages all the crude and undi- 
gested theories of the mere experimentalist, which only tend to mis- 
lead and confuse the mind, and we direct our attention solely to the 
dissemination of that solid and valuable instruction, by which every 
class of society, fiom the nobleman to the peasant, may be initiated 



V! 



PREFACE. 



in the practical department of one of the most interesting arts, which 
can occupy the attention of man. 

Horticulture is not confined, at the present day, to a few indi- 
viduals, who may have selected it as the immediate means of their 
subsistence ; its spirit is transfused into all classes of society ; it has 
become a favorite object of the attention and study of the fair sex, 
in the most elevated ranks of life. As a source of agreeable do- 
mestic recreation, especially to the female sex, few objects stand 
higher in estimation than the care of a garden. It is a source of 
health to the valetudinarian ; the aspect of his flowers renovates his 
spirits, and in their balsamic odour he seems to inhale fresh life, 
and a delightful invigoration of his exhausted frame. What is 
more pleasing and gratifying to age, when the customary scenes of 
life have lost their relish, than to spend the evening of his days in 
the cultivation and amusement of a garden ? he looks on his flowers 
as his children, and in their bloom and blossom feels himself young 
again. A taste for gardening, unlike all other tastes, diminishes 
not as we advance in years ; it lives with us to the last hour, and it 
is our last wish, that the flowers which we have reared, should be 
strewn on our grave. 

The gardens of the great were formerly under the sole 
control of a well-educated scientific man, but now we see the 
peeress directing the management of her own gardens and green- 
houses, by the force of her own knowledge and experience ; 
we see her ransacking the most distant quarters of the world for 
those beautiful exotics, which are now the pride and beauty of our 
gardens; we see the opulent merchant, after a meritorious life 
spent in the harassing and uncertain walks of commerce, retiring to 
his suburban retreat, and there passing the evening of his life in 
the cultivation of his garden, or the management of his hot-houses. 
We see the peasant, after the labor of the day is over, recreating 
himself in the cultivation of his garden, that pride and boast of an 
English cottage : in fine, whithersoever we direct our view, we 
behold the spirit of Horticulture pervading every rank in life ; it 
decorates the table of the nobleman with the luscious pine — it cheers 
the frugal board of the peasant with wholesome vegetables. If we 
direct our attention to the general aspect of the country, how much 
has the spirit of Horticulture contributed to its present beautified 
condition. Where the steps of our forefathers trod over wastes 
and wilds, now smiles the garden, with its fruits and flowers. 
There is scarcely a spot in the remotest parts of England, in the 
dells of Wales, or the glens of Scotland, in which the effects of 



PREFACE. 



Vll 



the spade are not to be seen : k may be said, in fact, to have civi- 
lized the country ; it has endeared the peasant to his native soil ; it 
has opened to him a never-failing source of sustenance, at once 
prolific and wholesome, and it has imparted to him a spirit of pride 
and emulation, which enables him to surmount the cares and priva- 
tions of a dependant life. 

Partial, however, as we must naturally be supposed to be to our 
own individual mode of practice, as having been the result of a long- 
tried experience, we are by no means insensible to the merits'^of the 
various methods of management ardopted by others, nor do we treat 
with indifference many late valuable inventions and discoveries, by 
which the operations of the garden are facilitated, and ultimate success 
more decidedly insured. In our exposition, however, of the prac- 
tice and inventions of others, we beg not to be considered as giving 
our unqualified approval of their excellence or superiority over the 
method recommended by ourselves ; but in a work of general prac- 
tical utility, which this especially professes to be, we might expose 
ourselves to the imputation of partiality and prejudice, and even of 
ignorance, were we to exclude from our pages all mention of the 
different methods of management at present adopted by several 
eminent Horticulturists, and which, in many instances, are in reality 
founded on the most acknowledged principles of practical science. 
The positive and apparent advantages of each method are fully and 
impartially exhibited, and the option is thereby given to every indi- 
vidual, to adopt that particular one, which is most congenial to his 
taste and condition in life. 

With the view of rendering this work more practically useful and 
perfect than some others which have preceded it, and which cannot 
fail to recommend it to the serious attention of every Horticulturist, 
it will be sufficient to enumerate the following subjects, which 
will come under discussion, the value of which cannot be too highly 
appreciated by every individual, who may contemplate the design of 
establishing a garden, either on a large or a limited scale. 

The cultivation of culinary vegetables is the primary object of 
attention of every Gardener. In this work their mode of culture is 
exhibited, according to the latest approved system, arranged for 
every month in the year, at the same time that a specification is 
given of the choicest sorts, famed for the excellence of their flavor, 
or the abundance of their supply. The Fruit-garden is next in 
consideration, and therein we profess to give the most ample in- 
struction for the management of our native fruits, accompanied by a 
new systematic catalogue of all their varieties and sub-varieties, as a 



viii 



PREFACE. 



guide to those, who may be desirous to obtain tlie choicest fruits, 
either as an ornament to the table, or as an article of commerce. 
Under the respective departments of the Hot-house, the Green- 
house, the Conservatory and Forcing-garden, the latest improve- 
ments in their management are displayed, exemplified by drawings 
of many valuable modern inventions for facilitating their respective 
operations. In the former department, the new system of heating 
forcing-houses by hot water is fully exhibited, accompanied by 
appropriate designs for the erection of the necessary apparatus. 
Our subordinate departments will treat of the nature of Soils — the 
application of Manures — the choice of situations for Gardens — 
the grafting and pruning of Trees — with every other topic con- 
nected with the practical management of a Garden. 

The illustrative department of this Work will be enriched with 
engravings, executed in a superior style, of some of the choicest 
fruits and flowers, drawn and colored ad vivamj constituting itself a 
highly recommendatory feature, at the same time that it must prove 
of acknowledged importance to the Florist and the Pomonologist. 

Having thus particularized the leading features of our Work, we 
confidently submit ourselves to the impartial decision of the Public, 
for the style and manner in which the various departments have 
been executed. Our claim to their approbation and patronage is 
founded on the production of a work, combining in itself the soundest 
principles of modern practice, with the latest improvements and dis- 
coveries of the most refined science. With oi;r view constantly 
directed to the diffusion of useful, practical information, we have 
been equally attentive to those branches, which depend on orna- 
ment for their excellence, or which require in their management a 
higher degree of professional skill. To attain perfection belongs 
not to the human character, but in proportion as it is approached, so 
is the meed of approbation which should be awarded ; it is by that 
standard that we are wiUing to be judged, and if by our efforts we 
have made a single blade of grass to grow where none grew before, 
—if we have awakened in a single individual, whether of high or 
low degree, a love and taste for the benefits and beauties of a gar- 
den, — if we have exploded a single erroneous custom in the prac- 
tical department of Horticulture, or have simplified any of the diffi- 
cult branches of the art, the principal objects of our labor have been 
attained, and we may say with the elegant writer of antiquity, that 

" FINIS CORONAT OPUS." 



THE 

RISE AND PROGRESS 

OF 

GARDENING, 

FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. 



Gardening, if not the most useful, is undoubtedly the 
most ancient of all arts : the sacred historian informs us, that 
the Almighty had no sooner created the universe, than he 
planted a garden eastward in Eden, and after this garden was 
finished, " The Lord God took the man, and put him into 
the garden of Eden, to dress it, and to keep it." This may 
be considered as the first account which we have in sacred 
history of the origin of gardens ; although, in fabulous and 
profane history, we have many vague accounts of gardens, 
without conveying to us any positive information respecting 
their produce and cultivation. 

We have no farther account of gardening in the antediluvian 
world, with the exception of the immediate results of the 
transgressions of our first parents, who, for their disobedience, 
were not only themselves thrust out of the garden of Eden, 
and doomed to till the sterile ground by the sweat of their 
brow, but also entailed a lasting curse upon all their posterity. 

Soon after the general deluge, the Mosaic history informs 
us, that Noah no sooner found the earth in a state fit for cul- 
tivation, than he became a husbandman and planted a vine- 
yard, and most probably a garden, and made wine. 

h 



X 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



Frequent mention is made by the same iffstorian of vine- 
yards, which were the gardens of those days, being cultivated 
by the majority of the people, through whose lands the chil- 
dren of Israel passed on their journey to the promised land. 

Several gardens, belonging to Jewish princes and their sub- 
jects, are mentioned in the sacred Scriptures ; but that of 
Solomon is the principal on record. Solomon was not only a 
cultivator of a garden, but is also the first person recorded in 
history in the character of a botanist. He is said to have 
been acquainted with all trees, " from the cedar of Lebanon, 
to the hyssop which springeth out of the wall." 

The garden of Solomon was quadrangular, enclosed by a 
high wall, and contained, among other plants, the rose, the 
lilly of the valley, calamus, camphire, spikenard, saffron, and 
cinnamon; timber-trees, as the cedar, the pine, and the fir; 
and fruits, such as the grape, fig, apple, palm, and pome- 
granate. It also contained water, in wells and living streams, 
and the situation, in all probability, was contiguous to the 
palace, similar to the gardens of some of his successors. 

Solomon had also a vineyard at Baalhamon, which he let 
out at one thousand pieces of silver, or £158. sterling, per 
annum. 

Ahasuerus, also, had a garden near his palace, although we 
have no further account of it than that he returned out of the 
palace-garden into the place of the banquet of wine, where 
the queen was. {Esther vii. 7, 8.) 

Ahab wished to have the vineyard of Naboth, the J ezreelite, 
to make it a garden of herbs, because it was contiguous to his 
palace. Upon being refused, he was very sorrowful, but his 
wife Jezebel found means to impeach Naboth, by false wit- 
nesses, of treason, and caused him to be stoned to death, and 
then delivered the desired vineyard into the hands of her 
husband. 

Many other gardens are mentioned both in the Old and 
New Testaments, sufficient to bear ample testimony of the 
importance in which they were held by the Jews, and the 
people immediately connected with them. 

Our account of the horticulture of the antient Jews is very 
imperfect; but, like tliat of the majority of the eastern nations, 



OF GARDENING. 



xi 



it was probably upon the same plan as is still adopted in 
Canaan, which is principally directed to the cultivation of 
cooling fruits, for the purpose of allaying thirst, and mode- 
rating the heat of the climate ; aromatic herbs were also cul- 
tivated to give a tone to the stomach, and wine was made to 
refresh and invigorate the spirits. Their gardens, according 
to the most authentic information, produced cucumbers, me- 
lons, gourds, onions, leeks, garlick, anise, cummin, coriander, 
mustard, and various spices. Cucumbers, melons, leeks, and 
garlick were eaten in Egypt, and the cultivation of them was 
probably continued as long as the Egyptians remained a 
powerful people. 

In the 2d chap, of Numbers, ver. 5, we find them murmur- 
ing to Moses at the want of these fruits and vegetables. 

The gardens of the Hesperides are the next in antiquity to 
that of Eden, and were situated in Africa, near Mount Atlas, 
or, according to others, near Cyrenaica. They are described 
by a geographer of the sixth century before Christ, as being 
situated in a place eighteen fathoms deep, with an acclivity on 
all sides, and two stadia in diameter, covered with a variety 
of trees planted closely and thickly interwoven. The most 
noted fruits of this garden were the golden apples, supposed 
to have been oranges, which Hercules carried off by stratagem, 
although guarded by a dreadful dragon, which never slept. 
Independently of these apple-trees, many other ornamental 
trees and shrubs grew in this garden, such as olives, almonds, 
mulberries, arbutus, ivy, and. myrtle. 

The promised garden of Mahomet is the next in notoriety, 
of which we have any traditionary account, and it was the 
heaven of his religion. The pleasures of temporal gardens, ( 
which we so much covet and admire, are but of momentary 
consideration, compared with their duration in the gardens of 
Mahomet, which, to all true believers, were to last for one 
thousand years. 

Having thus given a cursory detail of the gardens of the 
primary ages of the world, we will now proceed to a short 
review of those gardens of antiquity, of which an historical 
account is handed down to us by the Greek and Latin his- 
torians. 



xli 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



The garden of Alcinous is supposed to have been situated 
in an island of that name ; but by some it is considered to be 
Corfu, in the Ionian Sea, and by others, with more probabihty, 
an Asiatic island. 

It has been remarked by Sir William Temple, that this 
description contains all the justest rules and provisions vj^hicb 
are requisite for the construction of the most perfect garden. 
The extent of the garden of Alcinous was, in those days of 
simplicity, looked on as great, even for a prince. It was 
enclosed to protect it fi'om depredations, and, for conveniency, 
was placed near the gates of the palace. 

This is the first garden, according to Harte, that we read 
of in ancient history. It contained only three or four kinds 
of fruit-trees, a few beds of culinary vegetables, and a small 
number of flowers. It contained two wells, one for the use 
of the garden, and the other for the palace. 

The gardens of Laertes, described by Virgil, appear to 
have been nearly similar to that of Alcinous, but more varied 
in its productions. So attached was Laertes to his garden, 
that when his son Ulysses paid him a visit, he describes him 
to be found no where but in his garden, " attended by his 
servants, gathering shrubs to make a hedge, and the old man 
directing them, and weeding the plants with gloves on, because 
of the bushes." 

The celebrated gardens of Babylon, commonly called the 
hanging-gardens, so celebrated among the Greeks, on account 
of their being elevated, according to some historians, upon 
vast blocks of stone, supported by pillars of the same material. 
These gardens are described by Strabo and Diodorus, as con- 
taining a square of four hundred feet on each side, giving an 
area of nearly four acres, and were carried to a considerable 
elevation, in the manner of several large terraces, one appear- 
ing incumbent on the other, till the height equalled that of the 
walls of the city. The ascent was from terrace to terrace by 
stairs ten feet wide. The whole pile was sustained by vast 
arches, raised upon other arches, one above the other, and 
strengthened by a wall of twenty-two feet in thickness, that 
surrounded it on every side. Large flat stones, sixteen feet 
long and four broad, were first laid on the top of the arches ; 



OF GARDENING. 



xiii 



over these was a layer of reed, mixed with a great quantity of 
bitumen, on which were two rows of bricks, closely cemented 
with plaster. The whole was covered with thick sheets of 
lead, on which the mould of the gardens was deposited, which 
was so deep, that the largest trees could take root in it, and 
with these the terraces were covered, as well as with plants 
and flowers. 

These extraordinary and elevated gardens were built by 
Nebuchadnezzar, for the purpose of gratifying his queen 
Amistis, who, being a native of Media, could not be recon- 
ciled to the flat appearance of Babylon, which, for many miles 
round, was an immense level space ; and Media, her native 
country, being rather hilly, and presenting that undulation of 
surface, which has always been considered an indispensable 
beauty in landscape. This is the first instance we have on 
record of any attempt to give to a level surface that undu- 
lating eflect which is so much admired in nature. It is there- 
fore probable, from the above circumstance, that landscape- 
gardening had been studied in Media to some extent, and that 
the queen of Nebuchadnezzar had not been altogether an in- 
attentive observer of the beauties of landscape. The erection 
of these gardens, from whatever motive they may have been 
erected, reflects greater credit on this king than any other 
action of his life. 

We have another instance, of nearly the same date, of the 
preference given to lofty situations for gardens. Diodorus 
Siculus observes, " When Semiramis came to Chanon, a city 
of Media, she discovered on an elevated plane a rock of 
stupendous height, and of considerable extent. Here she 
erected another garden, exceedingly large, enclosing a rock 
in the midst of it, on which she erected sumptuous buildings 
for pleasure, commanding a view both of the plantations and 
encampments." This Amazonian queen had, it appears, a 
taste for gardening as well as for war. 

Cyrus, the younger, was a great patron of gardening in 
Persia; and in whatever part of his dominions he fixed his 
residence, he carefully cultivated and established gardens. 
Plutarch informs us, that Lysander, the Spartan general, 
found Cyrus cultivating his garden with his own hands at 



Xiv RISE AND PROGRESS 

Sardis ; he was informed by Cyrus that the arrangement of his 
garden was entirely his own work, and that many of the trees 
were planted by himself. Lysander was astonished to hear 
this, and expressing his surprise to the king, Cyrus said, 
"Do you wonder at this, Lysander ? I swear, by the diadem 
I wear, that if I be in health, I never eat any food until I 
have exercised my body till I perspire, sometimes in martial 
exercises, at other times in gardening, or similar laborious 
exercises of husbandry." 

Cyrus had many gardens : one of them, at Celenae, was of 
such extent, that he mustered the Grecian forces, to the num- 
ber of thirteen thousand men, in it. Gardening must, there- 
fore, have been reduced to a regular science, under such a 
patron as Cyrus, and we are informed by Pliny, that, in the 
Persian gardens, the trees were planted in straight lines, and 
regular figures. Among their trees, the Oriental plane, and, 
what may appear to us remarkable, the narrow-leaved elm, 
(now called English,) held a conspicuous place. Odoriferous 
plants, such as roses, violets, &c., were planted along the 
margins of the walks. 

Epicurus, among the Greeks, delighted in the pleasures of 
the garden, and he chose one for the spot in which to teach 
his philosophy. Among the flowers cultivated by the Greeks 
were the narcissus, violet, and rose. 

Lord Bacon and W. Mason considered gardening as rather 
neglected among the Greeks, notwithstanding the progress of 
the sister art of architecture, which gave rise to his lordship's 
remark, " That when ages grow to civility and elegancy, men 
come to build stately sooner than to garden finely ; as if gar- 
dening were the greater perfection." 

The garden of Tarquinius Superbus, five hundred and four 
years before Christ, is mentioned by Livy and Dionysius Hali- 
carnassus, as among the first in the annals of Roman history. 
It adjoined the royal palace, and abounded chiefly with roses 
and poppies. 

The next in rotation was that of Lucullus, near Baiae, in 
the bay of Naples. In this garden, the peach, cherry, and 
apricot, were first introduced from the East, and were pro- 
bably brought by Lucullus himself on his return from one of 



OF GARDENING. 



XV 



his expeditions from the eastern part of Asia, where it is most 
Hkely that he contracted a taste for gardening. 

In the gardens of the Augustan age, Virgil describes the 
chicory, cucumber, ivy, acanthus, myrtle, narcissus, and 
rose ; but of the progress of gardening in this age, tradition 
is very silent. From Cicero and Pliny the elder, we learn, 
that the quincunx manner of planting trees was then gene- 
rally in use ; and by Martial we are informed, that the clip- 
ping of trees was introduced by Cneus Matius, a friend of 
Augustus. 

That which has been termed the Dutch style of gardening 
was used about this time, and it is supposed to have been the 
style adopted by Pliny, in the formation of his garden, and 
it was used in this country in the reigns of King William and 
of Queen Elizabeth, specimens of which still remain, the 
most perfect of which is at Holm-Court, in Herefordshire, and 
is supposed to have been laid out by Loudon and Wise. This 
taste, displayed by Pliny, appears to have prevailed until the 
decline of the Roman empire, and, owing to its having been 
displayed in a minor degree in the gardens of religious houses 
during the dark ages, as well as in the writings of Pliny, has 
thus been handed down to modern times. " Every country- 
house," says the Roman historian, "had its gardens in the 
days of PHny ; and it is not too much, taking this circumstance 
in connection with the remarks of Columella, to hazard a 
conjecture, that even the Romans themselves considered their 
gardens less perfect than their houses." 

The following fruits were introduced into Italy by the Ro- 
mans, viz. : the peach from Persia, the fig from Syria, the 
pomegranate from Africa, the citron from Media, the apricot 
from Epirus, cherries from Pontus, and apples, pears, and 
plums from Armenia. Hirshfield observes : " The rarity and 
beauty of these trees, joined to the delicious taste of their fruits, 
must have enchanted the Romans, especially on their first in- 
troduction, and rendered ravishing to the sight, gardens which 
became insensibly embellished with the many productions which 
were poured into them from Greece, Asia, and Africa." They 
also attempted, with considerable success, the forcing of fruits. 
Sir J oseph Banks conjectures, fi'om the Epigrams of Martial, 



xvi 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



that both grapes and peaches were forced ; and Pliny says that, 
by means specular ia, or plates of the lapis specularisyTihe- 
rius had cucumbers in his garden throughout the year. 

For a long period after the fall of the Roman empire, garden- 
ing, as well as all other arts, fell into decay, and would possibly 
have been almost forgotten, had not the monks, who were the 
only class of men whose particular station in life enabled them 
to accomplish the undertaking, continued to cultivate the fruits 
of the earth. Their sacred profession secured them from open 
violence, and the secluded life which they generally led, enabled 
them to devote a considerable portion of their time to horticul- 
tural pursuits, and which they found conduced both to their 
health and comfort. Many of the old pear-trees growing at 
this day, were planted by the monks, and some of the early sorts 
were introduced into this country by them from different parts 
of the continent, and are to be found in some of the monastic 
gardens at the present time. 

In Italy, gardening was revived about the beginning of the 
sixteenth century, under the patronage of the Medici family. 
Their gardens were generally in the geometric style, similar to 
those of Pliny, and they continued in that form till about the 
middle of the last century, when a style more agreeable to 
nature was introduced. About the beginning of the sixteenth 
century, the taste for distributing statues, &c. in the gardens, was 
re-established ; and about the end of the same century, hydrau- 
lic devices were introduced, for which the gardens at Tivoli 
were so distinguished. 

About the beginning of the seventeenth century, the formal 
and stiff square-clipt hedges, straight walks, and trees uniformly 
lopped, formed the distinguishing features of a fine Italian 
garden. Since that period, gardening has progressively im- 
proved in Italy ; but the Itahans are still far behind this country 
in horticulture, although they have one of the finest climates in 
the world in their favor. 

The Dutch have long been celebrated for their skill in the 
culture of flowers, and this taste is thought to have originated 
with their industry, about the beginning of the twelfth century; 
the study of flowers being in some degree necessary, in afford- 
ing patterns for the ornamental linen and lace manufactories. 



OF GARDENING. 



xvil 



The Dutch being a maritime people, were amongst the most 
early introducers of plants from the Levant and from the two 
Indies ; and their gardens contained, at one period, a much 
greater number of plants than all the rest of Europe combined. 
The civil wars, however, which desolated that country in the 
sixteenth century, were also the cause of the destruction of 
their gardens. It was in the Botanic garden of Leyden that 
Boerhaave, who was then Professor of Botany, first exemplified 
the principle for adjusting the slope of the glass of hot-houses, 
so as to admit the greatest number of the sun's rays, according 
to the latitude of the place, &c. It was in this garden that 
the two numerous genera of the geraniums and mesembryan- 
themums were first introduced from the Cape. As Holland is 
not well supplied with gravel, the walks of this garden are laid 
with a mixture of peat-moss, and rotten bark reduced to a 
powder. 

The Dutch have been long, and are still noted for their skill 
in the cultivation of bulbs of all sorts. Hirschfield states that, 
in the register of the city of Alkmaar, in the year 1637, it is 
recorded that one hundred and twenty tulips, with their offsets, 
M^ere sold publicly, for the benefit of the Orphan Hospital, for 
nine thousand florins, and that one of those flowers, named the 
Victory, sold for four thousand two hundred and three florins. 
The prices given for such flowers appear enormous, but now 
they are not so high as formerly ; the highest price demanded 
for the most rare being about one hundred guilders, or eight 
pounds two shillings and sixpence for each bulb, 

The Dutch and Flemings are eminent as fruit-gardeners as 
well as florists ; and they possess many fine varieties of fruits, 
particularly pears. Culinary vegetables are also brought to 
great perfection ; and Brussels is particularly noted for a 
species of greens or sprouts, which bear the name of that 
town, and which have been long cultivated in its vicinity. The 
gardens of the cottagers in the Netherlands are much better 
managed, and more productive, than in any other country. 
Every cottage has a garden attached to it, and every available 
particle of matter capable of acting as a manure is collected, 
and when properly ameliorated by repeated turning and fre- 
quent fermentations, is applied to the ground. The plants in 



xviii 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



general cultivation are the cabbage tribes, including the Brus- 
sels sprout, white beet, parsnep, carrots, yellow and white tur- 
nips, peas, beans, kidney-beans, potatoes, &c. : the fruits are 
currants, apples, and pears, and the vines are often trained upon 
their cottages. Their flowers are double wall-flowers, rockets, 
stocks, pinks, roses, and honey-suckles. 

Gardening in France was little attended to before the eighth 
century, when Charlemagne introduced some particular fruits, 
and recommended the use of vineyards and orchards. Louis 
the Fourteenth, about the middle of the seventeenth century, 
introduced splendour in design ; and about the close of the 
eighteenth century, English gardening began to be adopted in 
France, and was pursued for a time with considerable enthusiasm. 
The works of the French on gardening are luminous, and exhibit 
an enlarged knowledge of the subject, but the charge against 
them is not without foundation, that their practice has not kept 
pace with the science which their writings display. English 
gardening in France, during the Consulate was little attended to ; 
several places were, however, laid out or altered by Blaikie. 
Since the Revolution little has been done in the way of improve- 
ment : the unsettled state of the people may be some excuse. 

Few cottagers in France are without their little gardens, and 
they display, particularly in the northern parts, considerable 
neatness in the management of them. The gardeners of the 
nobility, for the most part, are very illiterate, and ignorant of 
the first and most common principles of their profession : they 
are no better than the common labourers employed in digging 
an English garden ; and, under such circumstances, gardening 
cannot be expected to make any rapid strides towards per- 
fection. 

Buflbn, the celebrated naturalist, was so enamoured with his 
garden, that he erected a pavilion in it, in which he could study 
without interruption. To this retreat this great man daily 
retired at five o'clock in the morning, and was then inaccessible 
to all visitors. This retreat was justly styled the cradle of natural 
history, by Prince Henry of Prussia. 

Gardening is supposed to have been introduced into Germany, 
4ustria, Prussia, Saxony, and Denmark, by the Romans, and 
after the decline of that empire, preserved l)y the monks, who, 



OF GARDENING. 



xix 



during the dark ages, were domiciliated in different parts of 
the Roman empire, and who, in their dispersion in the distant 
countries of Europe, carried with them many of the seeds and 
plants of the best indigenous fruits of Italy. 

Horticulture appears to have revived under Augustus the 
Second, elector of Saxony, who is reported to have augmented 
the varieties of fruits, and to have planted the first vineyard. 
The Germans are particularly fond of the different sorts of 
cabbages and borecoles, of which they make a variety of 
dishes, particularly broths and soups ; they also preserve them 
salted and fermented for winter use, under the name of sauer- 
kraut. In the cottage gardens of Germany little else is growB 
than the cabbage-tribe, particularly reed-greens and potatoes ; 
this resembles much the productions and uses of a Scotch 
cottage garden. A taste for flowers is by no means general 
among them. 

By what means, or at what time, gardening was introduced 
into Switzerland, we have no accounts ; but the probability 
exists, that it took place at an early period. The Swiss took 
the Romans in Italy as their guide ; and their present mode of 
culture differs little from that adopted by their instructors. 
They are diligent cultivators of the ground, and have their 
vineyards and orchards in tolerably good perfection. In their 
culinary gardens, the cabbage, potato, and white beet are cul- 
tivated ; kidney-beans and peas they also grow in considerable 
quantities. The cottagers pay a laudable attention to the 
management of bees, which yields them a handsome profit. 
This ought to be more attended to by our cottagers, as the 
certain means of rendering them less dependent on the landed 
agriculturist, whose contracted and narrow mind^ in too many 
cases, fancies it to be his interest to keep his peasantry in a 
state of the most abject submission by nailing them to the soil, 
or, in other words, keeping them in that state of wretched 
pauperism, that they are no more their own masters than the 
slaves on an estate in the West-Indies, and thus at once de- 
feat all their exertions, and remove every stimulus either to 
the exercise of habits of industry, or to the promotion of their 
personal welfare. 

Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, appears to have encou- 



XX 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



raged horticulture in that country and in Norway, before 
whose time little progress had been made in either country 
in any branch of agricultural science. At a subsequent period, 
Charles the Twelfth procured several plans from the celebrated 
French gardener, Le Notre, and various kinds of trees and 
plants were sent from Paris to Stockholm. The greater part 
of our common culinary vegetables are now cultivated in 
Sweden, and even in many parts of Lapland, where the cli- 
mate is not too inclement. 

About the beginning of the eighteenth century, Peter the 
Great of Russia, applied himself to the study of horticul- 
tural science, as well as to that of the other arts which were 
introduced into this country by that great man, and which laid 
the foundation of the present power and prosperity of that ex- 
tensive empire. Peter seems to have adopted, the geometric 
style, or that which had been previously the style of the gar- 
dens of Pliny, and in this undertaking he was probably 
assisted by Dutch gardeners, whose method he had seen and 
approved during his residence in their country. The Empress 
Catherine, towards the latter end of the same century, intro- 
duced a more modern style, in which she appears to have given 
the preference to the English, for which purpose she procured 
an English gardener, who only a few years ago returned from 
Russia, and died in his native land at an advanced age. 

Catherine the Second established the first botanic garden at 
Petersburg, for the use of the Academy of Sciences ; and it 
was under the auspices of this Empress that the celebrated 
gardens of Peterhof and Zsarkoe-Seloe were established. In 
point of extent and ornamental decoration, the former stand 
unrivalled, and will remain a perpetual monument of the 
power and perseverance of man in combating, and eventually 
overcoming the numerous obstacles which Nature frequently 
throws in the way of the accomplishment of his plans. 

The climate of Russia is not favorable for horticultural pur- 
poses, but it is astonishing to observe the quantity of fruits 
and vegetables which are annually reared in the Russian 
hot-houses. 

English gardening was introduced into Poland about the 
end of the eighteenth century, by the Princess Isabella 



OF GARDENING. 



xxi' 



Czartoryska, who also wrote a small treatise on the man- 
ner of planting English gardens, and which was published 
at the commencement of the present century. She resided 
some time in this country, and cultivated a taste for garden- 
ing, which enabled her, on her return, to make considerable 
improvements in her own country. Horticulture is, however, 
still at a very low ebb in Poland, being chiefly confined to 
the nobility, who may have taken up a temporary residence 
in this country, and imbibed a taste for gardening, or 
who, by serving in the army in France and Germany, may 
have obtained a knowledge of the systems adopted in those 
countries. 

The study of plants is of great antiquity in Spain ; having 
been introduced by the Arabs, who, at an early period, were 
acquainted with, and initiated in the study of botany and 
physic. No country has enjoyed more favorable opportunities 
of excelling in the cultivation of exotic plants than Spain. The 
climate is salubrious and temperate, and the Spaniards might 
have monopolized for a time all the vegetable treasures of 
Peru, Mexico, and Chili. Culinary gardening requires little 
skill in Spain, the soil and climate being particularly adapted 
ior it. Onions and water-melons are grown in such plenty 
as to form a considerable branch of the export trade of that 
country. Onions and garlic are their favorite vegetables. No 
European country is so well stocked with a variety of fruits ; 
and, independently of all the fruits of Italy, native or accli- 
mated, they possess the date, the tamarind, and other West- 
Indian fruits ; and in some of the southern provinces, the 
pine-apple flourishes in the open air. Gardening in Portugal 
is very little attended to, and is nearly in the same degraded 
state as it is in Spain. 

Having thus entered cursorily into a concise review of the 
horticulture of Europe, we will now proceed to inquire into 
the state of gardening in Britain, with reference to its intro- 
duction and progress. 

Before the Roman invasion, the Britons were so deeply 
immersed in ignorance, that they cannot even be supposed to 
have cultivated any vegetable productions, being content to 
live on acorns, the bark of trees, and whatever other roots 



xxii 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



they could pick up by accident. Dio Cassius informs us, that 
they had ready, on all occasions, a certain kind of food, of 
which, if they took but the size of a bean, they were not 
troubled with either hunger or thirst for a considerable time : 
this is supposed to have been the roots of the Orobis tuberosus, 
the Carmeil of the ancient Gauls and modern Highlanders. 
History informs us, that the soldiers of Caesar were often re- 
duced to the necessity of subsisting upon the same roots for 
food. 

From the remains of Roman villas discovered in many parts 
of Britain, we are left to conclude, that the system of gar- 
dening practised by the Romans, was adopted, both for orna- 
ment and use, by the generals and others of the Roman nobles, 
who accompanied the several expeditions into this country. 
Pliny expressly says, that cherries were introduced by the 
Romans about the middle of the first century ; and that the 
vine was also introduced is evident, for Tacitus says, that wine 
was made on Britain towards the end of the third century, 
under the Emperor Probus. It is also probable that they 
introduced some of the onion tribe, and likely some of the 
brassica, in their then cultivated state ; and that they rendered, 
by cultivation, the brassica oleracia of our shores an article 
of food, as, in some of the oldest records, both kale and leeks 
are mentioned. 

When the Romans abandoned this country to support the 
tottering fabric of their own empire, it is probable that gar- 
dening was quite neglected; as the Saxons, who succeeded 
them, had little time or taste for rural affairs. It is evident, 
from historical documents, that horticulture met with some 
encouragement under William the Conqueror, who may be 
supposed to have attained to some partial knowledge of it on 
the continent, where it had flourished under the patronage of 
Charlemagne. 

It is generally supposed that the majority of our fruits, par- 
ticularly apples and pears, were introduced into this country 
by the monks, in the days of their greatest luxury and splen- 
dor, and it is probable that the indigenous fi'uits of this island 
were cultivated in the monastic gardens. Vineyards and 
orchards were phinted by them, in every place in which they 



OF GARDENING, 



xxiii 



domiciliated themselves, if the situation were at all favorable. 
Many of these orchards remain to this time in a sufficient state 
of preservation to prove to us, that they were planted by 
people who cultivated them upon good and scientific prin- 
ciples. One in particular is still remaining at Holm-Lacy in 
Herefordshire, where the trees are in a very healthy state, and 
yield sufficient crops to render them a valuable acquisition to 
the clergyman, in whose garden the greater number of them 
now flourish. It was in this place that William Fitz-swain, in 
the reign of Henry the Third, founded a Premonstratensian 
canonry, and it was by the residentiary canons that this 
orchard was planted. One pear-tree in particular deserves 
mention, which has been proved to have produced four hun- 
dred and forty bushels of fruit in one season, and that fruit 
produced fifteen hogsheads of perry, of one hundred and 
twenty gallons each. 

Other instances occur of trees of equal age still flourishing 
with vigour, and bearing an abundance of fruit. In an or- 
chard on the Braedalbane estates, on the margin of Loch Tay, 
one tree still remains, which is similar to the tree at Holm- 
Lacy, not only in the abundance of its produce, but is also 
exactly the same sort of pear, and has in all likelihood stood 
there since the orchard was first planted, which we find 
was effected by the Queen of Alexander the Third, of Scot- 
land, who brought a convent of nuns from Scoone, and 
built a nunnery on the island, of which the remains are still 
to be seen. These trees, if we may use the expression, have 
stood their allotted time in their natural or original po- 
sition ; and when overtaken by old age, have laid themselves 
prostrate on the ground, and from their old trunks and layers 
branches have emitted roots, and their lateral branches have 
taken a perpendicular direction, and in their turn have be- 
come large trees, like the Phoenix out of the ashes of its 
parent. 

The longevity of the pear is perhaps only exceeded by that 
of the oak, the chestnut, and the cedar, at least it attains to 
a greater age than any other fruit-tree with which we are ac- 
quainted. These old pear-trees have adopted a rather un- 
common mode of propagation, or rather prolongation of theii 



xxiv 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



existence ; for when the trunk is no longer able to support the 
branches, and the sap rises slowly and scantily to their sup- 
port, they bend at length to their native earth, to renew their 
own existence in the progeny which they send forth. Nature, 
in many cases, immediately before dissolution, makes one grand 
effort to propagate the species, and this is obvious in old 
trees being greater bearers than the younger ones ; and also, 
that trees in a sickly state often die when loaded with fruit. 
In this instance, the pear-tree, as if loth to relinquish the 
vital spark, makes a grand effort, and by striking root from 
its larger members, wherever they touch the ground, becomes, 
as it were, young again; and upon the same principle, its 
existence may be prolonged till the end of time, and an im- 
mense space be covered by its branches. The large tree at 
Holm-Lacy, already alluded to, covers nearly a quarter of an 
acre. 

The first account we have in history of gardening in Britain, 
belongs to the twelfth century, in which Brithnod, first Abbot 
of Ely, is celebrated for his skill in forming the extensive gar- 
dens and orchards of that monastery, which he stocked with a 
great variety of herbs, shrubs, and fruit-trees. This monas- 
tery may be considered as the cradle of the art of grafting, as 
it was there first practised by Brithnod, who probably had either 
learned the art in Italy, or had been instructed in it by some 
brother ecclesiastic who had emigrated from that country. In 
Scotland, at this early period, David the First had a garden at 
the base of Edinburgh Castle. This king had an opportunity 
of observing the gardens of England under Henry the First, 
when Norm.an gardening was prevalent ; and it is probable 
that that king was prompted by his genius to combine ele- 
gance with utility in the establishment and cultivation of his 
gardens. 

William of Malmsbury speaks of a considerable number 
of orchards and vineyards being in the vale of Gloucester. In 
the year one thousand one hundred and forty, we find that a 
vineyard was planted at Edmondsbury, for the use of the 
monks of that monastery. 

In the year one thousand two hundred and ninety-four, the 
monks of Dunstable were at considerable expense in repairinir 



OF GARDENING. 



XXV 



the walls of their garden and herbary ; and about this time se- 
veral kinds of fruits were in active cultivation. Mathew Paris, 
speaking of the backwardness of the season at this period, 
says, that "apples were scarce, pears still scarcer, but that 
cherries, plums, figs, and all kinds of fruits included in shells, 
were almost quite destroyed." 

Till about the beginning of the reign of Henry the Eighth, 
many of the now more common culinary vegetables, such as 
cabbages, &c., were imported from the Netherlands. It was 
not, says Hume, till the end of the reign of that king that 
any salads, carrots, turnips, or other edible roots, were pro- 
duced in England, their culture not being properly under- 
stood. About the end of this reign, some progress had been 
made in the cultivation of vegetables and fruits ; for we are 
informed that the king's gardener introduced musk-melons, 
apricots, and Corinth grapes, and also that at the same period 
different kinds of salads, herbs, and esculent roots, were 
brought for the first time from Flanders. About this time, a 
taste for florists' flowers began to be cultivated in England, 
and it is supposed that they were introduced into this country 
from Flanders, by the worsted manufacturers, during the per- 
secutions of Philip the Second. It was also to the cruel- 
ties of the Duke of Alva that we are indebted for receiving, 
through the same channel, July flowers, carnations, and Pro- 
vence roses. Flowers and shrubs appear, however, to have 
been long known and prized before this time. 

Henry had a garden at his palace of Nonsuch, in Surrey, 
which was enclosed with a wall fourteen feet high, and in 
which the Kentish cherry was first cultivated in England. 
During the succeeding reign of Elizabeth, gardening appears 
to have made some farther progress, and it was at this period 
that the tulip, the damask and musk roses, were first intro- 
duced. Elizabeth is said to have been attached to flowers; 
and Gerrard published his herbal, in which he mentions a 
London apothecary, who was celebrated for growing tulips, 
and rearing new varieties every year. Botanic gardens now 
began to be established; that of the Duke of Somerset, at 
Sion-House, seems to have been the first. Sir Walter Raieigh 
introduced the potato and tobacco about this time ; and muny 

d 



xxvi 



RISE AND PROGRESS 



other eminent persons now began to collect different varieties 
of fruits and vegetables from all parts of the world. During 
this reign, Hatfield, Holland-House, and many other noted 
places, were planted, and considerable attention paid to land- 
scape gardening. The pleasure-garden appears to have been 
reserved for Elizabeth's reign, when a square parterre was 
enclosed with walls, scooped into fountains, and heaved into 
terraces. During this Princess's reign, there was an Italian 
who visited England, and published, in 1586, a thick volume 
of Latin poems, in one of which, called the Royal Garden, 
he describes a labyrinth, and hints at Her Majesty being cu- 
rious in flowers. 

Charles the First appears to have been the first monarch 
who patronized gardening to any extent in this country. His 
kitchen gardener was Tradescant, a Dutchman ; and Parkinson 
was his botanic gardener, or herbalist, who was the first author, 
according to Mr. Neill, of any thing like an original work on 
English gardening. Cauliflowers and celery were then as 
great rarities as peas in the time of Henry the Eighth ; po- 
tatoes were then rare, and the Jerusalem artichoke was in 
common use. Parkinson describes 58 sorts of apples, Gi< of 
pears, 61 plums, 21 peaches, 5 nectarines, 6 apricots, oG 
cherries, 23 vines, 3 figs, with quinces, medlars, almonds, 
walnuts, filberts, and the common small fruits : an amazing- 
catalogue of fruits for those days. 

About this time, florists' flowers were cultivated among all 
the manufacturing people of Norwich, London, Manchester, 
Bolton, &c. Oranges and myrtles were cultivated at Kew, 
Ham-house, &c. ; and the larch, which now rears its head on 
almost every bleak mountain in Scotland, was then a green- 
house shrub, and kept as a curiosity, and the almost equally 
hardy laurel was then protected from the nipping frosts of win- 
ter by being covered over with a blanket. 

Cromwell was a great promoter of agriculture and garden- 
ing ; and his soldiers, whithersoever they went, introduced all 
the latest improvements in those two important and profitable 
branches of human industry. They introduced cabbages into 
(he north of Scotland, when quartered at Inverness. 

After the restoration of Charles the Second, that moiiarch 



OF GARDENING. 



xxvii 



introduced French gardening ; and, to carry his plans into 
execution, brought over from France, Le Notre, the celebrated 
French landscape gardener, who planted Greenwich and St. 
James's parks, Carlton and Marlborough gardens. Charles 
the Second is supposed, by Daines Barrington, to have had 
the first hot-houses and ice-houses erected in this country, 
although certain fruits had been long before reared and brought 
to maturity, by the power of dung-heat, by the London 
gardeners. 

In this reign flourished the celebrated Evelyn, who was a 
scientific promoter of gardening, and whose Sylva, and other 
works, still remain to adorn the literature of the country. Sir 
William Temple not only wrote on gardening, but also prac- 
tised it, to a considerable extent, at his seat at East Sheen, to 
which place he introduced from the continent some of our 
best peaches, apricots, cherries, and gi^apes. He also attended 
particularly to the training of his trees on the walls, a system 
of management at that time in its infancy, and deemed by 
many of the most celebrated horticulturists of the day as an 
innovation on the order of Nature, and checking the luxuriance 
of the fruit-tree. 

The gardens of Kew then belonged to Sir Henry Capel, 
where he is said to have had the choicest collection of fruits 
in England, and that he was better versed in the management 
of them than any other living horticulturist. Daines Barrington 
supposes him to have been the first person of our nobility who 
paid any attention to their gardens, or bestowed any expense 
in the cultivation of them. 

About the beginning of the eighteenth century, horticulture 
began to assume a new character. The culinary and fruit- 
gardens were not only assiduously and successfully cultivated, 
but forcing had been tried to a considerable extent. In 
1719, pine-apples were successfully cultivated at Richmond, 
by Mathew Decker, and afterwards by Blackburn, in Lanca- 
shire. The vine was cultivated at Rotherhithe, by Warner, 
who is said to have raised from seed the species still called 
Warner's Black Hamburg, The first instance we have on 
record of the successful forcing of the vine, took place at Bel- 
voir Castle in 1705. 



XXviii RISE AND PROGRESS OF GARDENING. 

Many good practical and scientific gardeners lived about thii 
time : Miller, curator of Chelsea Botanical Garden, and au- 
thor of the well-known dictionary ; Lawrance, Bradley, and 
Switzer ; and, towards the middle of the century, lived Hill, 
Abercrombie, Marshall, MThail, and many others. In the 
early part of that century, J ustice and Reid wrote on garden- 
ing in Scotland, although the science had before their time 
acquired a considerable degree of perfection in that country. 
The gardens of Justice, and those of the Baron Moncrieff', at 
Moredau, where Ryle practised as his gardener, and published 
his treatise on peaches and vines, were, at the beginning of 
the eighteenth century, supposed to be the highest cultivated 
and the richest stocked in the whole country. Gardening in 
Scotland has long been attended to, and a degree of perfection 
attained which is not to be met with in any part of Europe, 
taking into consideration all the circumstances of climate, and 
other physical disabilities. The extraordinary strides that 
horticulture has made towards perfection in the present cen- 
tury, are truly astonishing ; and every day some fresh discovery 
is announced, which tends to remove a prevailing evil, or which 
facilitates the operations of the practical gardener. 



THE 

PRACTICAL GARDENER 

AND 

MODERN HORTICULTURIST. 



CHAP. I. 



FORMATION OF THE CULINARY 

OR 

KITCHEN-GARDEN. 

XWe production and cultivation of those vegetables, which 
contribute in a very essential degree to the support of man, have 
a prior claim on our consideration and attention. Every day, 
the produce of the garden is spread on the tables of the gay, 
the grave, the rich, and the poor. From the prince to the 
humble cottager, a garden is an object to which a certain 
degree of importance is attached, and each endeavours to give 
it the highest possible cultivation, in order to supply his 
various wants and desires. In a political point of view, the 
culinary garden must be considered of great importance to the 
public; for which reason, we find the grounds surrounding 
all great cities and considerable towns appropriated to the cul- 
ture of it. In the environs of London for a considerable 
extent, little else occupies the ground but gardens, the produce 
of which finds a ready sale in the different markets of the 
metropolis. Gardens are not only important as affording the 
most wholesome food to the inhabitants, but also on account 
of the employment they afford to hundreds of industrious 
people, who otherwise would become a burthen on their parish. 
In this light, abstractedly, they must be considered as a 
national good. Neither is the cultivation of them less under- 

h 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



stood, nor the benefits arising from them less appreciated, in 
the neighbourhood of our manufacturing towns, where the 
confined and sedentary Ufe of the inhabitants requires food of 
a hghter nature, and of more easy digestion, than is required 
by those, who are employed in the more active and laborious 
professions of life. With the conviction, therefore, that the 
cultivation of vegetables is of so much importance to society, 
*^ we should use all diligence in the proper cultivation of the 
soil, well knowing that the more we do to it, the more will it 
return to us its fruits in abundance." 

The first and chief object tow^ards obtaining a good garden 
is to be particular in the choice of a favorable situation ; for, 
if this be not attended to, all hope of luxuriant crops must be 
abandoned. The second is to make choice of a good soil. 
Sometimes both of these grand objects are to be met with 
naturally in the same place, and often both of them have to be 
assisted, or the deficiencies supplied by art. But wherever a 
situation naturally presents itself, that is sheltered from cutting 
winds and well exposed to the influence of the sun^ and the 
elevation sufficiently great to be above the ill effects of damp 
vapours, and yet at the same time not too high nor too cold, 
and the soil good, many sacrifices should be made for its 
adoption. Natural situations are generally much better than 
artificial ones, and always more agreeable to the economist. 

Much has been said, and not without great justice, regard- 
ing the choice of a situation ; and as it is of the last import- 
ance, both for the growth and flavour of all culinary productions 
as well as for the general features of the other parts of a resi- 
dence, we will make it the first subject of our disquisition. 
In all places, where circumstances will permit, the kitchen- 
garden should be placed at such a distance from the mansion 
as to be concealed from the view, particularly from the prin- 
cipal windows; but although it is here recommended to be 
hidden fi'om the house, it does not thence follow, that it should 
be cooped up in an obscure corner of the park or plantations, 
neither should it be, as it were, engi'afted on the farm-build- 
ings, which is too often the case in very considerable places 
in this country. The distance which it should be fi:om the 
house must necessarily depend on a variety of circumstances, 



THE- CULINARY GARDEN. 



s 



of which the taste of the owner and the size of the place should 
be first consulted. In a princely residence, the culinary gar- 
dens may be at the distance of a quarter, or a half, or even 
a mile from the mansion, and approached either by a carriage- 
di'ive, or by circuitous gravel or grass-walks, according to the 
diiference of the situation. The space between the garden and 
residence should, if circumstances will admit of it, be occupied 
first with the lawn around the house of a size and style cor- 
responding to the magnitude and architecture of the build- 
ing; to this the flower-garden should adjoin, which it is desi- 
rable should always be near the house; and next in order, 
should follow the shrubbery or arboretum ; the kitchen-garden 
and orchard terminating the whole. An arrangement of this 
sort, so varied as to suit the circumstances of the place, will 
generally be found to have a good effect, and the combination 
of the whole in one piece will add much to the convenience 
both of the proprietor and the person, who has the general 
charge of the gi'ounds. Even in small places, this arrange- 
ment (or probably an improvement on it) may be easily effected ; 
the scale being smaller, the parts may be better proportioned, 
and, by the assistance of a little art, five or six acres, or even 
much less, may be so arranged as to give the appearance of 
grounds occupying ten times that extent. 

The culinary and fi'uit gardens, being at a considerable dis- 
tance from the mansion, present the owner with an opportunity 
of displaying his taste and fortune in the disposal of his grounds. 
If they be w^ell arranged and respectably kept up, they will be 
an attractive object, and be, as it were, a reason for conducting 
the stranger through a labyrinth of pleasure-ground. From 
the kitchen and fi'uit-garden, the walks may be carried on to 
the park, the lake, the village, or, if the proprietor be a sports- 
man or agriculturist, to the kennels or farm. 

SITUATION AS REGARDS SHELTER. 

A certain degree of shelter is of the utmost importance 
to the growth of the productions of the kitchen-garden, yet 
not so as to be shaded by lofty trees from the full rays of 
the sun. Shelter is necessary, because it renders the garden 
warmer, by the concentration of the rays of heat from certain 



4 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



bodies, particularly from the walls ; it is also necessary as a 
preventive to the bad effects of cold cutting winds. Those 
points from which the most inclement winds generally blow 
should be guarded (if not naturally) by trees, and no time 
should be lost in planting them. In making choice of the 
sorts of trees, those should be particularly selected which are 
of rapid growth ; 

Nor will ai t, that sovereign arbitress, admit. 
Where'er her nod decrees a mass of shade. 
Plants of discordant sort, unequal size. 
Or ruled by foliation's different law ; 
Studious with just selection, those to join 
That earliest flourish, and that latest fade. 

Sometimes the situation is rendered sufficiently sheltered by 
the natiJiral shape or situation of the ground, but if this be 
not the case, recourse must be had to the planting of trees, 
these however must be kept at such a distance from the walls 
as to guard against the evil of being too much shaded, as well 
as to prevent the roots of the trees, of which the plantation is 
formed, from robbing the borders, which may surround the 
walls. The winds principally to be guarded against are the 
north, the north-east, and north-west, for it is from those 
points that our coldest winds proceed. In the formation of a 
new garden, the artist has it probably in his power to adopt a 
situation already sheltered, and, if other circumstances be fa- 
vorable, the chance of this situation is not to be lost sight of; 
for if the garden has to be sheltered by plantations made after 
it is finished, a certain loss will be sustained. In the event 
of having the plantations to make, it will be an object to 
get thera up with all possible despatch; the ground, there- 
fore, should be well trenched, and planted with sycamore, pop- 
lar, larch, spruce, and balm of Gilead firs, which are our fastest 
growing trees, and therefore should have the preference ; taking 
care, at the same time, to intermix a sufficient number of oak, 
beech, elm, and chestnut, to remain after some of the others 
have been thinned out or have attained too great a height. 
It is a rule that there should never be any trees of any height 
on the south side of a garden for a very considerable distance, 
for, during winter and early in the spring, they fling their 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



5 



lengthened shadows into the garden at a time when every 
sun-beam is valuable ; on the east, also, they should be suffi- 
ciently removed, to admit the early morning rays. The advan- 
tage of these precautions is conspicuous in the early spring 
months, when hoar-frost often rests on the tender buds and 
flowers, which if it be gradually dissolved, no harm ensues, 
but if the blossom be all at once exposed to the powerful rays 
of the advancing sun, when he overtops the trees, the sudden 
transition from cold to heat often proves destructive. On the 
west, and particularly on the north, trees may approach 
nearer ; perhaps within less than a hundred feet, and be more 
crowded, as it is from those points that the coldest and most 
violent winds assail us. 

All the plantations round a garden, intended either for shel- 
ter or for blinds, should be composed of evergreens, thickly 
planted, preferring those which have been reared fi^om seed to 
those, which have been propagated either by cuttings or layers, 
as being more likely to assume the habit of trees ; as they grow 
up, clear away the deciduous trees from them, this will afford 
a shelter in winter and spring, when it is most wanted, and 
which will not be so well effected, if deciduous trees alone 
be planted. It must be further observed, that if only a suffi- 
cient number of deciduous trees be left, the whole will in time 
have a good effect. 

SITUATION AS REGARDS ALTITUDE. 

Under this head it must be remarked, that the situation 
should not be too high nor yet too low ; if too high, it ex- 
poses the crops too much to the cutting winds ; if too low, it 
is seldom sufficiently dry at bottom, and there is a natural sour- 
ness in low situations which is not easily eradicated by draining' 
or by any other means. Low situations are objected to by 
Dr. Darwin in his Phytologias : " The great warmth of low 
situations," he says, " and their being generally better sheltered 
from the cold north-east winds, and the boisterous south-west 
winds, are agreeable circumstances, as the north-east winds in 
this climate are the freezing winds, and the south-west ones, 
bemg the most violent, are liable much to injure standard 
fruit-trees in summer, by dashing their branches against each 



6 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Other and thereby bruising or beating off their fruit; but in 
low situations, the fogs, in vernal evenings, by moistening the 
young shoots of trees and their early flowers, render them 
much more liable to the injuries of the frosty nights which 
succeed them, and which they escape in higher situations." 
Professor Bradley gives a decisive fact in support of this prin- 
ciple. A friend of his had two gardens, one not many feet 
above the other, but so different, that the lower garden appeared 
flooded with the evening mists, when none appeared in the 
upper ; and, in a letter to Professor Bradley, he complains that 
his lower garden is much injured by the vernal frosts, while 
his upper one remained uninjured. 

SITUATION AS REGARDS ASPECT. 

A good aspect for a garden is allowed to be that, v/hich has 
a gentle declivity towards the south, and inclining rather to- 
wards the east, in order that it may receive the benefit of the 
morning sun ; but this inclination should be as slight as pos- 
sible, or else it will give the garden an awkward appearance. 
The inclination, however, may be only towards the south, 
and that not exceeding one foot in twenty, if artificially made, 
but if the ground have naturally a greater or a less inclination, 
provided that it be not inconveniently steep, there can be little 
reason for altering it ; ground, which has a considerable slope 
towards the south is always the warmest ; a flat or level sur- 
face is not desirable, it will be cold and present a heavy and 
dull appearance. 

A north aspect is to be avoided for general purposes, it 
being always cold and late. It must, however, be admitted 
that such an aspect has its advantages in summer, by retard- 
ing many crops which otherwise would be brought to seed 
before they had acquired a sufficient size for the kitchen. 
Salads, spinach, and cauliflower, are brought to perfection in 
northern aspects, when they would make little progress, if 
exposed to the full powers of the sun. In such situations, 
peas, and many other vegetables, yield superior crops during 
the hot summer months, particularly, in dry seasons. In large 
gardens it would, therefore, be advisable to have a piece of 
ground enclosed for those particular purposes, as the pro- 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



7 



Jongation of the season of most vegetables and small fruits is 
very desirable ; the size of such a piece of ground might be 
in the proportion of one-fifth or one-sixth of the size of the 
whole garden. 

Gardens of great fertility and earliness are often to be met 
with on the sides or near the bottom of hills, particularly if 
sheltered from the colder points by lofty rocks, the reflection 
or concentration of the rays of heat from them rendering the 
situation peculiarly adapted for bringing crops of the most 
delicate kinds to perfection at an early season. Situations of 
this kind are not only desirable on account of these advantages, 
but they are generally very romantic and picturesque, or they 
may be rendered so bv a judicious mode of decoration. 

SITUATION AS REGARDS SOILS. 

Having expatiated on the necessity and advantage of shelter, 
our next object, and one not less important, is a good soil. 
Where the soil is naturally good, it is generally much better, 
for the majority of purposes, than any that can be made by 
artificial means, and ultimately must prove a great saving of 
expense. The soil, if not very bad, is more easily and readily 
improved, or even entirely made to suit the dispositions of the 
various crops to be reared, than it is to provide sufficient 
shelter by artificial means, and is sooner accomplished even on 
a large and extensive scale. Of whatever description the soil 
may be, it is absolutely necessary that it should be completely 
drained, as the basis on which all the future improvement of 
it is to be effected. If wet, strong, and clayey, draining is of 
still greater importance; if light, and even dry and sandy, 
drains should also be introduced at the first formation of the 
garden, as this operation cannot be either so efiectually nor 
yet so conveniently done at any subsequent period. In the 
first instance, it is necessary to drain well to carry off the 
stagnant water, with which the sub-soil may be overcharged f 
and in the second, to provide against a superfluity of water 
from heavy rains or other causes. The drains should be so 
contrived tliat they may be brought to discharge their contents 
in larger channels under the walks, and these again should 
discharge themselves beyond the garden boundary. 



8 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



All gardeners agree that the soil best calculated for general 
garden purposes should be of rather a light, rich, friable, loamy 
texture, dry, mellow, and capable of being wrought at all sea- 
sons, and of a good depth, that is, from two feet to three feet 
and a half; and that the worst kinds are those of the very light 
sandy, and stiff clayey texture. A loam of a middling texture, 
rather inclining to sand, will be found the most suitable for the 
majority of kitchen vegetables; the greater part of which seem 
to delight in those soils, which are the easiest wrought at 
most seasons of the year ; there are some soils, that have the 
faculty of producing more early than others, and they are such 
as are commonly called black sands, in which is found an 
equal temper between dry and moist, accompanied with a good 
exposure, and with an almost inexhaustible fertility, render- 
ing them easy to be dug by the spade, and to be pene- 
trated by the rain waters ; neither are they so apt to crack in 
severe droughts like strong clayey soils, nor be parched with 
heat like sandy ones, nor in hard fi'osts are the roots of plants 
and seeds so apt to be thrown out of them as in some others. 
If the soil be too strong, the roots of plants push weakly into 
it, and are apt to canker and perish ; if too light, and at the 
same time poor, the roots of vegetables will wander far in 
search of nourishment, and be unable to collect a sufficient 
quantity for their support and maintenance. To attain perfec- 
tion on this head, our aim should be to make choice of a 
proper natural soil at first, or to compose an artificial one as 
near as possible to that above described. It is a false principle 
to depend upon manures entirely, for were they to be had in 
the greatest abundance, a too free application of them would 
have effects highly injurious to the quality of vegetables in 
general. In the formation of a garden, a moderate and pru- 
dent expense should be bestowed at the beginning, if the under- 
taking is to be ultimately crowned with success and satisfac- 
tion. It would be desirable to have a variety of soils in every 
garden, but this is seldom to be met with naturally, and few 
are at the expense of constructing them artificially, as most of 
the vegetables cultivated in our gardens seem to accommodate 
themselves to the soil of which they are formed. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



9 



SIZE AND EXTENT OF THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

The size or extent of garden-ground, like that of its dis- 
tance from the mansion, must in some measure depend on the 
taste of the owner, his style of living, number of his family, 
&c. It is, however, always better to have too much, rather 
than too little space, for there is nothing preposterous in a 
small house having a large garden. Marshall, in his Intro- 
duction to Gardening, observes, " some families use few, others 
many vegetables, and it makes a great difference whether the 
owner be curious to have a long season of the same product- 
ion, or is content to have a supply only at the more common 
times. But to give some rules for the quantity of ground to 
be laid out, a family of four persons (exclusive of servants) 
should have a rood of good-working open ground, and so in 
proportion." This, however, is only applicable to families of 
retired trades-people, and gentlemen of small fortune, who are 
not supposed to indulge in all the luxuries of the table, like 
families of rank and fashion. Few country-seats have less than 
one acre, and some exceed twelve, in constant and regular 
cultivation; as kitchen-garden from one acre and a half to 
five or six acres may be considered as the common quantity 
enclosed by walls, and the latter size, if properly managed, 
will be found to afford sufficient vegetables for a family of the 
first class ; as many vegetables, such as potatos, turnips, car- 
rots, and some others, are found to be much better in quality 
when cultivated in the open fields ; if the owner be attached to 
agriculture, or farms a piece of ground, it will b^ found very 
beneficial to grow a supply of those vegetables in the fields. 
The vegetables thus produced, will be found to be of a higher 
flavor than those v/liich are reared in the garden by force of 
manure, and will present an opportunity of renewing the 
quarters of the garden by fallowing, or giving them rest, in 
succession. Many gardens are to be met with of greater ex- 
tent, but it is to be questioned whether, under better manage- 
ment, much less ground would not answer every demand of 
the kitchen. Nothing can have a more unsightly appearance 
than a large garden not half cropped, and which is not kept in 
a neat and respectable order ; nor does any thing give a garden 

c 



10 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



more the appearance of neglect, than to see a part of it con • 
verted into a nursery for rearing forest-trees ; it would be far 
better, where the ground is not wanted for a time, to lay a part 
down in grass, which will tend to renovate the soil, and leave 
it in a condition to be cropped to advantage when necessary, 
whereas the rearing of forest-trees exhausts the ground, and 
leaves it after a time so impoverished, as to be unfit for the pro- 
duction of its proper crops. 



FORM AND ARRANGEMENT. 



Various forms have been recommended by practical men, par- 
ticularly for that part of the culinary garden which is surrounded 
by walls. Some have recommended a square figure. {Fig, 1.) 




18 



1^ 



J5 



17 



ID 



^0 

\. I. Hot-houses. 2, Z.i. 5. Quarters. 6.7.8.9. Borders. 10. U. 12. 13. Walks. 
14. 15. 16. 17. Walls. 18. 19. 20. 21. Outer Boundary. 22. 23. Back Sheds. 

AbercTombie recommended an oblong, with the angles 
cut off, to give a greater portion of the walls behind an equal 
degree of aspect with those on the garden side. Hitt recom^ 
mended a geometrical square or rhomboid, so placed that each 
wall might derive as much benefit fi'om the sun as possible. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



11 



M*Phail recommended a square or oblong figure, as the most 
convenient; and Nicol designed many excellent gardens, 
formed of squares or parallelograms, with circular projections 
on the north side. Irregular figures cannot be objected to, as 
they generally afford a great variety of aspects, and may be jus- 
tified, if their form be in keeping with the natural surface of the 
ground, independently of whigh they are more easily concealed 
fi:om the other parts of the domain, and even if they be seen, 
they have not so stiff and formal an appearance as a geometri- 
cal figure. They are, however, liable to many objections ; if 
on a small scale, the internal subdivision of them into quarters 
always ends in too many acute angles, and renders the crop- 
ping of them more troublesome. Upon a great scale, how- 
ever, a considerable degree of taste may be displayed in their 
internal subdivision, and, if well managed, may be productive 
of a good effect. The surrounding boundaries of plantation 
may be rendered much more picturesque, and can be made 
to harmonize better with the other grounds, than those that 
shelter more formal figures. Oval and circular figures are 
liable to the same objection, of being more troublesome to 
crop. 

The form most generally adopted, and by far the most ra« 
tional, is that of a lengthened square or parallelogram, whose 
greatest length runs fi-om east to west. {Fig, S.) 

Fig. 2. 



IS 



1. 1, Hot-houses, 2. 3. 4. 5. Quarters. 6. 7. 8. 9. Borders. 10. 11. 12. 13. Walku 
14. 15. 16. Walls. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Such a figure is more conveniently divided into quarters, 
and those quarters will always present a neat and compact 
appearance. A fofm of this shape will produce the greatest 
extent of south wall, which is a matter of no trivial import- 
ance, for, without the aid of those southern walls, few of the 
finer fruits will arrive at perfection, even in our most favor- 
able situations. The outer fence or boundary need not be 
exactly parallel to the walls, as circumstances may so combine 
as to render that disposition unnecessary. The slips or sur- 
rounding piece of ground may be cropped with coarse vege- 
tables, and probably planted with fruit-trees and bushes, or, in 
many cases, be entirely occupied as an orchard; the form, 
therefore, of the outer boundary need not be confined to any 
particular figure. A square, like an entirely level surface, 
will always have a stiff and heavy appearance ; but this object- 
ion may, in a great degi'ee, be remedied, by running a wall 
across from east to west, and thus dividing the space into two 
equal, or unequal pieces. This plan is often adopted, to in- 
crease the extent of walls for the production of our finer fruits. 

The arrangement of such a figure is simply to can-y walks 
parallel to the walls round the interior of the garden, leaving 
borders for the cultivation of fruit-trees of sufficient breadth, 
and bearing a just proportion to the height of the walls. The 
breadth of these borders is generally allowed to be equal to 
the height of the walls, for, if narrower, they do not admit of 
sufficient scope for the roots of the trees to run in, and it 
gives the walls the appearance of being higher than what they 
really are. If much broader, they diminish the effect of the 
walls ; and where they are not cropped with vegetables, from 
an idea that they injure the fruit-trees, a great loss of ground 
must be the inevitable consequence. A walk should divide 
the whole garden into two equal pieces from north to south, 
unless the extent exceed an acre, in which case, two or more 
walks will be necessary, as also one from east to west, inter- 
secting each other in the centre of the space, and thus dividing 
the w^hole into four equal quarters, the sides of each quarter 
being exactly parallel to the walls. If the extent be more 
than one acre, it will be advisable to divide it into six com- 
partments, for the greater facility of cropping the whoie. In 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



IS 



the arrangement of other figures, it is necessary, likewise, to 
have the fruit-tree borders divided from the rest by a walk 
running parallel with the walls, and the remaining space di- 
vided in the most equal manner possible. The walks should 
be separated from the larger compartments or quarters by a 
marginal border, fi'om four to six feet wide, in which an espa- 
lier rail is often fixed, for the purpose of training apple and 
pear trees, at the distance of three to five feet from the walk ; 
cjr, instead of espaliers, dwarf standard trees may be planted, 
according to the taste of the owner. An alley or path, com- 
monly two feet broad, separates this border from the quarters, 
and is to be used by the labourers while engaged in the several 
operations of gardening. 



WALKS. 

Marshall observes, m his Introduction, " that the number 
and breadth of walks must, in a great measure, be regulated 
by the quantity of allotted ground, exceeding in those particu- 
lars, where there is room ; but that few and wide walks are 
preferable to many contracted ones. If the garden be small, 
one good walk all round is sufiicient ; and, if long and narrow, 
the cross ones should not be many ; six or eight-feet walks are 
not too wide for a moderate-sized garden." In the formation 
of the walks, the ground, if good, should be excavated to the 
depth of two or three feet, and disposed upon the compart- 
ments, in order to admit of a sufficient depth for a layer of 
stone^j brick-bats, rubbish, or rough gravel, &c., to render the 
whole perfectly dry at all seasons, as well as to prevent the 
rising up of the worms. Under the walks, as has been already 
noticed, good drains should be formed to carry off all super- 
fluous water. The bottom being thus prepared, the lower 
stratum being laid as hollow as possible, the whole should be 
finished with the best gravel that can be procm-ed, from six 
,to twelve inches in depth: that of a binding nature is the 
best. The colour should be of a yellowish hue, as dark 
coloured gravel, although it may be equally good for render- 
ing a walk dry, firm, and hard, has not so cheerful an appear- 
ance ; lighter coloured gravels are also sooner tarnished, and 



14 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



unless exceedingly well kept, soon look ill. Few places arc 
so well supplied with excellent gi'avel as the neighbourhood of 
London ; that from Kensington is supposed the best, and there 
are frequent instances of its being exported to Scotland for 
garden-walks. The advantage of good gravel, for the embel- 
lishment of a garden, is of much importance, but there are 
many situations, where this article is not to be procured, unless 
at an enonnous expense. Recourse, therefore, must be had 
to substitutes, and there are several, which will make excellent 
walks, equally comfortable and agreeable as gravel, but which 
flill far short of it in point of beauty. 

Of these substitutes, coal ashes are the best, and for kitchen- 
garden walks may answer the desired purpose. In those situa- 
tions, where utility and comfort are the only objects, ashes, 
when sifted and laid upon any bottom, whether prepared or 
not, by being rendered dry, make excellent walks ; they are 
not much affected by rain, neither are they apt to be disturbed 
by fi'osts, nor subject to be overgi'own with weeds ; but should 
the latter be the case, they are easily cleared of them. 

Road-sand is also a good substitute for gravel, and that 
which is procured from roads formed of flints is the best. The 
walks may be rendered dry before it is put on, in the same 
manner as gravel, which \n\\ prevent the effects of worm casts, 
to which walks of sand are very subject It should be laid on 
in a wet state approaching to mortar, and, when partially diy, 
rolled down. Walks of this sort are easily kept clear of 
weeds, and during summer, are neat and clean. In autumn, 
and during the frosts and thaws of ^^-inter, they become soft 
and unpleasant, and are apt to get overgi'own with various 
species of mosses and conferva. 

Saw-dust makes a dry walk, where it can be had in abund- 
ance : it is di-y and clean, few weeds will make their appeai- 
ance in such walks, but it is a material which requires often to 
be renewed. 

In Holland, where gravel is very scarce, many of the best 
gardens have their walks formed of bog-mould ; but it is liable 
to many defects, and is neither di'y nor clean. 

Small pebbles, imbedded in strong clay, when placed closely 
together like a causeway, make an excellent, chy and clean 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



15 



walk, and present a neat appearance ; but this, if well done, 
becomes expensive, and cannot be carried to a gi'eat extent 
with a due regard to economy. 

Whether gravel or any of these substitutes be used, it is 
necessary to have an edging of some sort or another ; that of 
box is certainly to be preferred, as being the neatest and re- 
quiring the least ti'ouble in the management of it. Thrift, 
(Statice armeria,) is often used, and will last for a couple of 
years, but it requires to be replanted so often, that it cannot 
be recommended. Various other sorts of edging, such as 
bricks placed on edge, slates, deal, &c., are used, but are all 
objectionable. Grass edgings are sometimes laid, but they 
require to be often mowed, and at best have an unseemly 
appearance. 

In gardens of small extent, edgings are sometimes formed 
of useful kinds of vegetables, such as parsley, strawberries, 
thyme, hyssop, winter savory, or chamomile ; these, while they 
remain young and ungathered, have an effect not out of cha- 
racter with the kitchen-garden. There are some persons who 
dispense with all sorts of edgings, and merely defend the edges 
of the walks with a beaten border, which they renew as occa- 
sion may require. 

WALLS, 

Walls are constructed of various materials, such as brick, 
stone, wood, mud, or flints. The chief use of walls is for 
the production of fruits, which will not arrive at an equal de- 
gree of perfection on espaliers or standard-trees. They are 
also of use to surround the kitchen-garden, for the better ex- 
clusion of hares and rabbits, which cannot be kept out by any 
other fence. They also afford a considerable degi'ee of shelter, 
and, by the reflection of the rays of heat on the borders, ren- 
der them better calculated for the production of tender vege- 
tables at a season earlier than they would be produced in the 
open quarters of the garden. 

Many good kitchen-gardens, however, considered merely as 
such, are wholly destitute of walls. Fences of various mate- 
rials and constructions have been used in former times, and 



16 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



instances occur, in our own day, of very good gardens being 
enclosed by hedges, paling, and other sorts of fences. 

The late Walter Nicol, who had a much greater experience 
in the formation of gardens, than any other practical author 
on the subject, gives the following directions on this head: 
" In designing and laying out a modern garden, a degree of 
taste, as well as fitness or propriety, ought to be displayed, 
the basis of which is the right placing, proportioning, and 
constructing of the walls. If these be properly set down, so 
as to answer the cast of the ground, and be raised to proper 
heights according to its extent, the rest is easy, and follows as 
a matter of course." 

" In this particular branch of gardening, utility and simpli- 
city ought to go hand in hand, othenvise a display of genuine 
taste will be wanting. It is not in curves, circles, nor ogees, 
that, in this instance, we derive any satisfaction. The direc- 
tion of the walls, if the ground will admit of it, should always 
be in a direct line. They may be built perpendicularly, or 
they may be inclined so as to suit the general cast of the 
ground ; but the nearer they approach the perpendicular, the 
greater pleasure will they afford. The eye is distracted, and 
the mind is impressed with fear, in beholding any building 
apparently insecure. We can look on a mast placed obliquely, 
or a tree glowing aslant, with firmness and satisfaction, because 
we know the one is supported by ropes, and the other by roots, 
but we look with a degree of distrust and of fear on a wall 
running much off the perpendicular." 

After stating the necessary choice of the ground as regards 
situation and shelter, which we have already treated on, Mr. 
Nicol proceeds to recommend, that if " the north wall can be 
placed quite level, and also the south wall, on a lower Jevel, 
and so, as that the east and west walls shall fall fi'om north to 
south a foot in thirty, or in twenty-five, or according to the 
slope of the ground ; and if the ground be lengthened from 
east to west, in the proportion of three to two, the extent 
being two or three acres, on such a spot may be erected a 
garden that will not fail to please." 

If the surface of the ground be of an unequal height, the 
w^alls should be so also, and probably the best rule that can be 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



17 



laid down, is to build the walls in such a mannei' that their coping 
may be parallel to the ground surface, provided that it be not 
very much distorted ; in that case, it will always be better to 
regulate the surface to a somewhat regular shape. 

Where the ground is a dead level, it will be necessary to 
have the walls of different heights to give relief, otherwise 
the whole will have a heavy and dead appearance. The 
neight of the walls should be regulated according to the 
size of the ground inclosed, as well as to the sorts of trees 
intended to be placed against them. In small gardens, the 
walls should be rather low than otherwise, for a small garden 
surrounded by high walls has a gloomy and heavy appearance ; 
this objection, however, may be obviated, by having them of 
different heights, always making the north wall the highest, 
and the south the lowest. The principal walls of gardens of 
any considerable extent are seldom below ten feet, and seldom 
exceed sixteen. For gardens of ordinary dimensions, we 
should consider fi'om ten to twelve feet to l)e a good height, tlms 
making the north wall tv/elve, and the south one ten. How- 
ever, the height of the north wall must be in general regu- 
lated by the height and width of the hot-houses, which may 
be placed against it; and under such circumstances, if the 
height be more than twelve feet, the effect will not be un- 
pleasant, as the houses will bear a proper proportion to it. 
Hot-houses are required of different heights, in order to suit 
the purposes for which they may be intended ; and this neces- 
sary inequality of height will tend to relieve the height of the 
walls; and still farther to accomplish that end, it would be 
advisable to have the highest part of the wall in the middle, 
and the breaks gradually declining to each end. " In a garden 
of an acre, being a parallelogram of the best proportion, and 
of a gentle declivity," Nicol observes, " the north wall may 
be raised to the height of fourteen feet, the east and west walls 
to twelve, and the south wall to ten, above the ground level. 
If the ground slope considerably, the breakings in the respect- 
ive heights of the walls may be less; they may be only a 
foot, and the relief will be the same, or nearly the same, to 
the eye, in ranging along their surfaces. In gardens of greater 
extent, the walls may be raised to a greater height, but by no 

D 



18 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



means In proportion, if it extend to several acres. The ex- 
treme height of the north wall, in any garden, should not ex- 
ceed eighteen feet ; and on the supposition that it contains four 
acres, the east and west walls should be fifteen, and the south 
wall only twelve feet high, in order that it may give the neces- 
sary relief to the eye. In a garden four hundred feet long, 
and three hundred feet broad, which forms a handsome paral- 
lelogram, and contains something above two English acres, if 
the ground lie on an easy slope, a very eligible height for the 
north wall is sixteen feet, for the east and west walls fourteen, 
and for the south wall twelve. But if the ground be quite 
level, or nearly so, the north wall being the same height, the 
east and west walls should be thirteen and a half feet, and the 
south wall eleven feet in height, or the east and west walls 
may be only thirteen, and the south wall ten feet high, if it 
be a dead level." 

Many persons are, however, content with walls of more 
humble dimensions, and where the production of fruit only is 
the consideration, no doubt can exist, but that lower walls an- 
swer the purpose equally well, and in all cases will produce 
an equal, if not a greater, quantity of fruit, in proportion to 
their respective surfaces. Where economy is a consideration, 
low walls, of six or eight feet in height, are to be preferred to 
those which are from ten to eighteen. The generality of 
trees will thrive well on such walls, and some kinds are sup- 
posed to flourish better. The peach-growers on the continen' 
prefer low walls ; and that practice has been, in some cases, 
adopted in this country with complete success. 

Walls are generally built perpendicularly, or nearly so, and 
are found to answer the purposes for which they are intended, 
provided that the operative department be well managed ; we 
cannot, therefore, divine what benefit is to be gained by de- 
viating from this practice; although several authors have 
recommended sloping walls, that is, building them so as to 
present an inclined surface to the horizon, fi'om an idea that 
the sun acts with more vigor upon such walls than upon per- 
pendicular ones. 

A great variety of walls has been offered to the public, and 
highly rated by the inventors, as a matter of course. In these 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



pretended improvements, we see not the least possible advantage 
over perpendicular and straight walls ; on the contrary, Ave ob- 
serve many disadvantages attending them, particularly in the 
expense of their construction, and in their total want of beauty. 
Amongst these are the waving or serpentine wall, the angular 
wall, the zig-zag wall, the square fret wall, the pier'd wall, 
and walls with arched niches or recesses, all of which are in- 
ferior in beauty and utility to the straight wall in common use. 

Hollow walls have been recommended, as possessing the 
ssi^me strength, without the same number of bricks being used 
in the construction of them; this is in itself important, and 
such walls are capable of being heated by artificial means, as 
the occasion may require, for the purpose of ripening late fruit, 
but more especially for ripening the young shoots, which is 
still more important, and is, in fact, the principal use of hollow 
or flued walls, and, when fuel is moderate in expense, is found 
to be extremely useful. But the success in this case, as in 
many others, depends upon the judgement and assiduity of the 
gardener. 

The cellular wall is a recent invention, the essential part of 
the construction of w^hich is, that the wall is built hollow, or 
at least with communicating vacuities, equally distributed from 
the surface of the ground to the coping. If the height do 
not exceed 10 or 12 feet, these walls may be formed of bricks 
set on edge, each course or layer consisting of an alternate 
series of two bricks set edgeways, and one set across, forming 
a thickness of nine inches, and a series of cells, nine inches in 
the length of the wall, by three inches broad. The second 
course being laid in the same way, but the bricks alternating 
or breaking joint with the first. The advantages of this wall 
are obviously considerable in the saving of material, and in 
the simple and efiicacious mode of heating ; but the bricks and 
mortar must be of the best quality. This wall has been tried 
in several places near Chichester, and at Twickenham, by 
F. G. Carmichael, and found to succeed perfectly as a hot- 
wall, and at 10 feet high to be sufficiently strong ?s a common 
garden-wall, with a saving of one brick in three. As a whole, 
indeed, it is stronger than a solid nine-inch wall, on the same 
principle that a hollow tube is less flexible than a solid one. 



20 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



It is evident, that the same general plan might be adopted m 
forming cellular walls of greater height, by increasing their 
widths A very high wall might have two systems of cells 
divided vertically, one or both of which might be heated at 
pleasure. Piers may be formed either on both sides of the 
wall (a), or on one side by bricks on edge (6), so as to bond 
in with the rest of the work. 




A great advantage may be derived from walls built so as to 
be heated as the occasion may require ; these are denominated 
hot walls, and have hitherto been constructed by introducing 
a system of common smoke-flues (as jip;, 1) distributed through 

Fig, 1. 




the wall at certain distances. These flues are objectional, 
merely as they require fi-equently to be swept, which is not 



'XHE CULINARY GARDEN. 



21 



very readily effected ; independently of which, they are, like 
all flues heated by hot air or smoke, liable to become cool 
soon after the fire ceases to burn. An improvement has 
been designed by W. Atkinson, Esq., of Grove End, and 
for its utility and simplicity deserves to be in more general 
use; it consists in building the walls hollow, which will 
be found far more economical and equally strong, and in- 
troducing, within a few inches of the bottom of such cavity, 
hot-water pipes, supplied from boilers, which may be built in 
the wall, and the fire fed and managed from behind, such 
boilers being placed at the distance of from fifty to one hund- 
red feet apart ; or one boiler, placed m the middle, will lient 
one hundred feet or more of wall sufiiciently, by having the 
pipes branching both from the right and left, a space much 
greater than could by any other means be heated by one fire. 
These pipes require no cleaning nor repair, if once properly 
placed, and can be erected at a very moderate expense ; they 
possess a decided advantage over hot air or smoke flues, by 
continuing to give out heat to the wall long after the fire has 
ceased to burn, and this property will increase according to 
the size of the pipes that may be introduced. For the side 
walls, which have an eastern and western aspect, the pipes may 
be placed in the centre of the walls, so that both sides may 

derive an equal degree of 

heat from them, as fig. 2; 
and for walls having only a 
southern aspect, the walls 
being thicker, the pipes may 
be so arranged as to have 
only one brick of thickness 
in front, and the remainder 
of the thickness on that side 
where the heat is not re- 
quired {Jig. 3). The water 
being heated in the boiler 
will flow along one pipe to 
its extreme point, say one 
hundred feet, and there make 
a turn by an elbow joint, and 



22 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



return to the boiler by a pipe immediately below it, which will 
enter the boiler near its bottom. The water in this lower pipe 
will travel with more rapidity by forming an inclined plane 
from the extremity to the boiler ; the top pipe may be per- 
fectly level. Thus the water will continue to circulate in the 
pipes long after the fire is extinguished, or, indeed, as long as 
any heat remains in the boiler or brick work round it. It 
has been ascertained that water heated by this means will tra- 
vel at the rate of forty feet per minute, with an ordinary fire, 
but this rate may be much increased. The distribution of heat 
by this mode is so equal, that the pipes will be found as warm 
fifty or sixty feet from the boiler, as they are where they are 
connected to it. This is never the case with smoke flues ; from 
which arises the many complaints that hot walls are burnt up 
in one part, and little affected by the heat in others. (For a 
more full account of this mode of heating, see the Forcing 
Garden). 

Sunk walls, or such as are built under the general surface 
of the ground, or nearly so, and are known by the names of 
haha's, or sunk fences, have not been often adopted for general 
purposes. Instances occui', however, of the adoption of these 
walls, where it has become necessary to conceal them fi:om the 
sight. These walls have many advantages, and might be much 
more generally adopted than they are ; they, however, possess 
this disadvantage, that they present only one surface for the 
purpose of planting trees against; but, to balance this defect, 
they are much stronger, are not liable to be blown down, and 
from the rays of heat being reflected from them to the opposite 
bank, and again reflected upon the wall, together with theii 
being completely sheltered fi'om cutting winds, renders then 
extremely well calculated for the production of early fruits ; i,i 
addition to which, a garden enclosed with sunken walls may 
be rendered more picturesque than one with lofty walls, which, 
in confined places, are often difficult to hide. In our practice, 
we once had a sufficient proof of their superiority as regard? 
the production of early crops. In the management of sucl 
walls, the trees may either be planted in the bank and ben* 
into the wall, or, in many cases, they may, with greater pro- 
priety, be planted behind and trained downward The ex- 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



23 



petise of constructing such walls will not be so great as might 
at first sight be imagined ; the ground need not be excavated 
to more than the depth of half the height of the wall, the soil 
removed being placed upon the top of the original surface, 
will give the depth required. In situa- 
tions naturally damp, such a mode of 
enclosing a garden will tend materially 
to render it dry. 

Reed-walls and screens are used 
by Mr. Nieman, gardener at Hylands, 
near Chelmsford, the seat of P. C. La- 
boucliere, Esq. What is called a reed 
wall (f g. 1 & 2,) may be described as 10 
feet high, and consisting of a double 
trellis, a b, composed of horizontal laths 
about eight inches apart, a coping board 
nine inches broad; the reeds placed end- 
ways within the trellis, and supported 
about a foot from the ground to keep 
them from rotting ; the interval of a foot 
being filled up with slates placed on 
edge, e-, the trellis rods are nailed to 
posts, {Jig, 2, /,) and, by taking off a 
few of these rods on one side, the reed- 
mats can be taken out and renewed. 
Russian mats would, no doubt, answer 
well, and last a long time, and they 
might be taken out with still less trou- 
ble. Straw mats would also do, where 
reeds could not be got; and heath, as 
being of a dark color and very durable, 
would make the best of all structures 
of this kind. Mr. Nieman finds that 






t 






i 




e 




^■t^v.-v- -L- .. g ^■■^.■i■■^■;■^,:.■^.'li■■.l:■«g■>^«^■«^.v^-^^.>^.vL^^l:.^l:.^^^■ 





peaches, grapes, and other fruits, ripen just as well on these 
structures as on brick walls. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



The trellis against reed walls should consist of horizontal 
wires, rods, or laths, when vines, currants, or trees, are to be 
trained vertically; and of vertical wires or rods when trees are 
to be trained in the fan or in the horizontal manner. 

The common brick walls of the garden at Hylands are, for 
the most part, trellised, Mr. Nieman considering the trees less 
liable to injury from extreme heat, and the fi-uit likely to be 
better flavored, when the branches are kept a few inches from 
the wall, and the fruit in consequence surrounded by a fi-ee 
circulation of air. 

The thickness of walls must depend principally upon their 
height and situation, whetlier sufficiently sheltered or not 
Few walls exceeding eight or ten feet in height can be suffi- 
ciently strong, if less than fourteen inches in thickness, if made 
of brick ; but, if made of stone, they must be rather thicker. 
It is better to build them of a sufficient thickness, in order to 
render them secure, than to erect them of a smaller dimension 
and have recourse to piers to support them ; for, notwithstand- 
ing the benefit of such supports, they have an unseemly effect, 
and are very inconvenient for the operation of training. In 
those cases, where these supports are necessary, it is better to 
construct them so as to project from the north side of principal 
walls, on account of their being less exposed to the sight. 
No objection can exist to such projections, when the doors are 
cut through the walls, for a greater thickness of wall at such 
places will give strength to them, and if performed with judge- 
ment, the effect rather than being prejudicial may be orna- 
mental. It is of material consequence, that the foundations 
be good, and that they should be constructed of gi'eater thick- 
ness to within a few inches of the ground level, so as to afford 
a sufficient base for the wall to stand upon ; as, from the nature 
of the ground, and the subsequent operations to be performed 
on them, they may naturally settle or be disturbed, and in such 
cases, the consequences might be attended with serious incon- 
venience. 

The materials of which walls are composed are as various as 
the heights to which they should be carried. Bricks are gene- 
rally allowed to be the best, forming by far the neatest wall, 
«nd from their nature are much warmer than stone, woorl, or 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



25 



clay, independently of which, they possess the advantage over 
stone walls, as being better calculated for the training of the 
trees. Some authors have gone so far as to say, that where 
bricks cannot be procured, it is better to dispense with walla 
altogether; but against this opinion, we enter our most de- 
cided caveat, for many excellent walls are made of stone, mud, 
and wood, which have been found to produce the most luxu- 
riant crops of fruit. In those places, where bricks are scarce, 
the walls may be built of stone, and faced with brick, and in 
such cases, they are as good as those built entirely of brick : 
w^alls of this description are often met with in Scotland, and in 
many parts of England, where stone is abundant. Stone walls, 
if well built, are more durable than brick ones, particularly 
those, which are built of stones dressed to regular sizes and 
laid in courses. Mud walls are used in many places where 
both bricks and stones are scarce, and for low walls they ai'e 
found to produce the desired effect ; these walls, however, re- 
quire to be secured by thatch, or broad projecting copings, in 
order to render them dry, or else the expansion occasioned by 
fi'ost would soon reduce them to ruin. These copings, although 
offensive to the eye, are nevertheless of considerable benefit to 
the trees in the vernal months, while the blossoms are forming, 
and also during their expansion, by protecting them from the 
effects of vertical frosts ; and their use is also obvious while the 
fruit is in a state of maturity, by preventing heavy rains from 
injuring their flavor. In the management of the trees upon 
such walls, the use of the garden-engine should be freely 
exercised, as the trees are excluded from the benefit of the 
dews, and also from a due portion of natural moisture from 
summer showers. Portable copings are useful in granting that 
necessary protection, as will be demonstrated in the sequel. 

Flint walls, although neither neat nor well calculated for 
training, are nevertheless often used in chalky countries, and 
fruits are found to ripen upon them very early. The first wall- 
fi-uits brought to Winchester market are from trees planted on 
the ruins of the old city walls, which are chiefly composed of 
flints. 

Wooden walls have long been in use, but although fruits 
are produced upon them in the greatest perfection, they are 

£ 



£6 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 

much less durable than those of brick or stone. In order to 
render them more permanent, they should be composed of the 
best timber, particularly the uprights, to which the boarding 
is fastened, and that part which is let into the ground should 
be charred, as well as a certain portion above the surface, as 
at that particular spot they are the most liable to decay. Iron 
uprights might be substituted, but in their use, an almost in- 
superable difficulty would present itself in attaching th-e board- 
ing to them. Wooden walls should be either well covered 
with some durable paint, or with the composition called coal- 
tar. The latter, however, has a disagreeable smell for a long 
time after its application ; and such walls will always have a 
sombre and repulsive appearance. The boards of them should 
be placed in an imbricated manner, and for this purpose they 
should be cut with a thick edge on one side, and a thin one on 
the other, such as is techmcally called weather-boarding. If 
the boarding be thick, it would be advisable to join them as 
closely as possible ; and, in order to prevent the air passing 
through the joints, which will open considerably, however well 
seasoned they may be, nail thin strips of deal to cover each 
joint. These may be placed on the back of the wall, and will 
not be so much exposed to view. Wooden walls are expen- 
sive, and although they may be useful for nurserymen, for the 
purpose of training young trees upon, they cannot be recom- 
mended as advantageous or elegant in a well-disposed garden. 

Garden-walls, however constructed, or of whatever mate- 
rials they may be made, require as much care in having them 
well furnished with a coping, as it does to furnish a house with 
a roof, and also on the same gi'ounds, of keeping them dry and 
wholesome. All buildings are found to last a gi'eater length 
of time when properly secured from wet, and as garden-walls 
are exposed to all the vicissitudes of the weather, it is of im- 
portance that they be furnished with a coping sufficient to 
throw off the rain that may fall wpon their upper surface. 
It has been a question much agitated amongst horticulturists, 
whether the projection of the copings should be large or 
small, or whether they should project at all. It is obvious 
that they should project over the wall sufficiently to throw off 
the rain : but that they should project considerably, is still a 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



27 



matter of question. If the coping project over the wall more 
than from two to three inches, it will give the wall a heavy 
appearance, and therefore we would recommend that the pro- 
jection of the fixed or permanent coping should not exceed 
those dimensions, and they will be found, in every respect, 
sufficiently large to guard the walls fi^m the effects of wet. 
Copings of greater breadth are, however, useful at certain sea- 
sons, namely, when the buds are breaking, and while the 
blossom is expanded, as they answer the purpose of guarding 
them against the effects of perpendicular frosts, which would 
be highly injurious to them at that critical period. We would 
recommend portable or moveable copings of boards, supported 
on brackets of iron, either built into the wall, or driven in 
afterwards, and these brackets should be perforated with holes, 
in order to admit of the boards being fastened down to them. 
The breadth of such copings will vary according to the height 
of the wall, the low ones not requiring such broad copings as 
those that are more lofty. If the boards be twelve or fifteen 
inches broad, they will be found sufficient for the purpose re- 
quired. As soon as the fruit is fully set, these boards may be 
removed and stored away in a dry place, where they may 
remain until wanted the following spring. It is only while the 
trees are coming into blossom, and while they remain in that 
state, that these copings are of use ; their removal after that 
time will be advantageous to the ti-ees, by allowing the dews 
and rains of summer to fall freely upon them. If the trees be 
kept dry whil in bloom, the frost will not act so severely on 
them, upon the principle that all vegetables i'2Mst the effects 
of frost, in proportion to the dryness in which they are kept. 

The permanent or fixed coping is intended for the protection 
of the walls, and should be so constructed as to insure the 
accomplishment of that end. For this purpose, nothing is so 
good as stone pavement, it being found of greater lengths than 
bricks or tiles, and the greater the length of such pieces, the 
fewer joints will be necessary, which is in itself important. 
Their durability is also great, and they present a neater ap- 
pearance to the eye than those of any other material. In those 
places, where stone is expensive, bricks should be procured of 
different descriptions, intended for wall copings, and if laid in 



£8 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



ceraent, will last a long time, and render the walls perfectly 
dry. Some persons consider it a matter of consequence to 
place the coping in such a manner, that it may throw the rain 
tliat falls upon its surface to the worst side of the wall, and 
others construct it on such a principle, that the rain may fall 
equally on both sides ; but to neither of these cases ought much 
importance be attached, for the whole rain that falls on the 
sui'face of a garden-wall is, considering the time which it is in 
falling, so trifling, that it cannot injure one side much more 
than the other ; for if both surfaces be planted with trees, they 
v/ill, in the generality of seasons, absorb all the moisture that 
falls, without any great inconvenience or injury to the fruit. 
It is certainly an error to throw all the rain-water to the worst 
side of the wall, as the injurious effects are thereby increased, 
particularly in northern aspects, which are of themselves natu- 
rally damp. In the generality of cases, an equal 
division of the water may be considered as the 
most rational. ^ Bricks of various forms have been 
used for this purpose, and the greater the thickness 
of them, the greater will be their weight, conse- 
quently they will bind the wall better together, and 
they will be less liable to be displaced. The edges 
which project over the walls should be made thinner 
than the other parts, or else they will have a heavy 
appearance. The annexed figures represent the 
different forms of bricks often used for this purpose, 
and may be procured at any brick-kiln, and in 
most cases, will be cheaper than stone. 




WATER. 

Water is so necessary an element in the formation of vege- 
table bodies, that without it they could not exist. It is of the 
utmost consequence in a garden, and no one should be without 
a regular supply. The expense which the market-gardeners 
in the vicinity of London incur, in providing this element alone, 
is a sufficient proof of its indispensibility ; and the crops, which 
are reared by the liberal use of it, are strongly corroborative of 
the justness of the remark. In all well-regulated gardens. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



vrater should be supplied in the greatest abundance, and the 
.disposal of it should be so regulated, that it may be conve- 
niently and expeditiously applied to every part. This is an 
improvement in gardening, which, although long acknow- 
ledged, has been apparently little attended to. There is no 
situation in which water might not be had, and in many, with 
very little trouble or expense. Mr. John Hay, as a garden 
architect, has attended more to this important object than any 
other designer of the present day ; and the good effects of his 
system are exemplified in many gardens laid out by him in dif- 
ferent parts of Scotland. The gardens of Lord Roseberry and 
Viscount Duncan, designed by that artist, are described in the 
Edinburgh Encyclopedia, art. Horticulture, as having water 
supplied to them from a reservoir, situated on an eminence at 
a considerable height above the garden walls. Around the 
whole garden, four inches below the level of the surface of 
the ground, a groove of between two and three inches in 
depth has been formed in the walls, to receive ^ three-quarter 
inch pipe, for the purpose of conducting the water. Apertures 
of two feet and a half high, and ten inches wide, and about 
fifty feet distant fi'om each other, are made in the wall, in which 
a cock is placed, so that on turning the handle to either side 
of the wall, the water issues fi'om that side. The nozzles of 
the cocks have screws on each side, to which a leathern pipe 
is attached at pleasure, with a brass cock and director ; roses, 
pierced with holes of different sizes, being fitted to the latter. 
By this contrivance, all the trees, both on the inside and the 
outside of the wall, can be effectually watered and washed in 
a very short space of time, and the whole process attended 
with very little trouble. One jnan may go over the whole in 
two hours ; at the same time, the borders, and a very consi- 
derable part of the compartments, can be watered with the 
greatest ease, as the occasion may require. The convenience 
and utility of this plan must, at once, be perceived by every 
practical horticulturist. 

It is almost unnecessary to add, that river, pond, or rain- 
water, is to be preferred for all purposes of garden culture, to 
that which is procm-ed fi'om springs or deep wells, unless the 
water of the latter has been collected into a reservoir freely 



30 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



exposed to the action of the air, by which means it becomes 
softened, as it is technically called, and more fit to enter into 
the parts of vegetable economy. When water abomids upon 
gi-ounds more elevated than the garden, the advantage should 
not be lost sight of, as, at a moderate expense, a regular and 
constant supply of water can be brought, either in pipes of lead 
or earthenware ; or, which is still more economical, where cir- 
cumstances will allow, in an open drain; and, to use the 
phrase of an antiquated writer on this subject, this will prove 
tlie life and soul of the garden. 

Reservoirs of considerable magnitude have been formed, nGw 
only in gardens, but also in their immediate vicinity, suffi- 
ciently capacious to contain all the water, which is collected on 
the hot-houses, and other buildings, attached to the garden. 
One of the most complete, as well as the most capacious of 
this description, has been lately formed by Mr. Forrest, at 
Sion-House, the Duke of Northumberland's, and is constructed 
entirely of iron. This is, however, a more expensive mode of 
building reservoirs than many, from prudential motives, would 
be inclined to adopt ; the convenience, nevertheless, of such a 
reservoir will be the same, with this simple objection, that as it 
is some feet below the level of the garden, the expense of 
pumping it up will be considerable. Reservoirs should, in our 
opinion, be placed at such a height above the surface of the 
ground, as to admit of the water being dispersed over the whole 
of the walls in particular, by means of a portable pipe, as 
recommended by Hay, and adopted by many other horticul- 
turists. Where circumstances will admit of it^ partial irriga- 
tion will be found extremely useful in gardens, particularly in 
the height of summer, and during severe droughts. The se- 
rious injury effected by the last three dry seasons is strongly 
corroborative of the truth of the foregoing remark. Straw- 
berries and raspberries, in particular, amongst the fruits ; and 
celery, cauliflower, and several others, among the vegetables, 
will be considerably improved by this mode of cultivation. 

In those places, where water cannot be procured from ele- 
vated grounds, the various modes of digging wells, and bormg, 
which is a late improvement of great value, may be resorted 
to. In the former case, a pony or donkey could be usefully 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



31 



employed in driving an engine capable of raising a sufficiency 
of water for a large garden ; and, by the latter mode, it might 
be brought to flow to the surface in almost any part of the 
grounds, provided local circumstances will admit of its adop- 
tion. An instance of the great advantages of the former plan 
presents itself at Manor-House, in the New Forest, where 
water is brought from a great depth for the supply of the estab- 
lishment ; and, in the latter case, they are exemplified in the 
gardens of the Horticultural Society, at Chiswick, and in many 
other places. Ponds and basins for water are not always 
pleasing in gardens, and when on a large scale, are of an in- 
jurious effect. The expense of watering from them is great, 
and cannot be done without considerable damage to the crops. 
Portable force-pumps might be used in such cases, but, if em- 
ployed on a large scale, will be attended with considerable 
labour and expense. Triangular wooden troughs might be 
usefully employed, and, if taken proper care of, will last many 
years. They need not be of large dimensions, three or four 
inches in depth being amply sufficient; and they may be so 
placed, as to convey the water to any distance on the surface. 
If made in convenient lengths, they are easily managed, and 
the length at the farthest extremity should be perforated with 
holes, for the more gradual division of the water. As this 
mode of watering is intended for the surface only, a boy might 
be employed in directing the course and division of the water. 
These troughs, when not wanted, should be cleaned and laid 
by in a dry place. 



ENTRANCE TO THE KITCHEN OR CULINARY GARDEN. 

The entrance to a park, or mansion, is one of the most 
striking features of a noble residence, and affords the proprie- 
tor or designer the most favourable opportunity of displaying 
his taste, equally with the architect in the structure and eleva- 
tion of the house. This has been a subject which has occu- 
pied the attention of the landscape-gardener for a long period, 
and some beautiful specimens are to be met with fi'om the de- 
signs of Repton and others ; yet it is singular, that so little 
taste has been displayed m the entrances to gardens in general. 



32 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



First impressions are often the most forcible, and, for want of 
a little skill and management in this matter, many of our finest 
gardens are seen to great disadvantage ; the principal entrances 
to which are made at points, where the general beauties are 
concealed, or seen only in a very limited and imperfect manner. 
Nothing is more common than to see the principal walk lead- 
ing from the mansion to the garden, conducted through the 
most uninteresting part of the grounds, and in general making 
its entry fi'om behind. " Nothing can be more unsightly than 
the view of the high north wall of the garden, with its back 
shades and chimney-pots from behind, or even getting the 
first coiq7 d'oeil of the hot-houses from a point nearly in a 
parallel line with their front. The effect of many excellent 
gardens is lost, or marred, for want of attention to this point, 
or from peculiarity of situation." The principal walk which 
connects the rest of the grounds to the garden, and by which 
strangers should be brought to see it, requires some taste in its 
construction, and should always be made as interesting as pos- 
sible. The points at which a garden should be entered, should 
be chosen according to local circumstances, so that the eye 
may rest on the most prominent objects, such as the hot- 
houses, &c. For this reason, the entrance should be fi-om the 
south, south-east, or south-west ; and, on leaving the garden, 
no objection can exist to the walks branching from the oppo- 
site points. 



THE SITUATION OF THE MELON AND CUCUMBER GROUND. 

The melon gi-ound is generally denominated that piece of 
ground occupied by pits, fi-ames, &c., for the cultivation of 
melons, cucumbers, young pine-apple plants, and such fruits 
and vegetables that either require artificial heat for their cul- 
ture, or their early production before their natural season. 
The melon ground should be chosen in the most warm, dry, 
sheltered part attached to the garden, as the operations con- 
nected with the culture of that fruit, and other vegetables, 
under frames, are such, as to render it desirable that the melon 
ground should be placed near the outside of the garden, for 
the more readily supplying it with dung, mould, &c., which 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



S3 



would be extremely inconvenient if placed within the walls of 
the garden, independently of the uncleanly effect which it ex- 
hibits from the dispersion of the litter, and other unpleasant 
circumstances inseparably connected with hot-beds. The com- 
post yard, for the preparation of the various sorts of moulds 
used in the garden, as well as a piece of ground appropriated 
for rubbish, pea-stakes, fire-wood, &c., should be contiguous 
to the melon-ground ; and, for the appearance of greater neat- 
ness and regularity, these places should be divided from each 
other by walls, or evergreen hedges, which will not only 
afford shelter, but also conceal all disagreeable and unseemly 
objects. The site of these grounds should be either behind 
the garden, or in the slips on the eastern or western sides, pre- 
ferring those situations, which are exposed to the sun during 
the short days of winter, and sheltered sufficiently from winds, 
but not to that extent, as to render them damp or gloomy. 

The nearer that the melon-ground is placed to the forcing- 
houses the better, as the operations in both are intimately con- 
nessed ; and where pits are used, the melon-ground may be rend- 
ered a neat appendage to the garden, if kept neat and clear of all 
superfluous matter ; but, where frames and dung-beds are used, 
the very materials of which they are made, preclude the possi- 
bility of absolute neatness ; neither is there any particular ne- 
cessity in the melon-ground for that systematic attention to 
neatness, which is so indispensable in the other departments of 
the garden. Were the hot-water system of heating more gene- 
rally adopted, as applied to the forcing of fruits and vegetables, 
a very neat melon-ground might be made of well constructed 
pits, heated only by that means, and at a comparatively less ex- 
pense than that, which is incurred in ordinary practice. The 
compost-ground should also be exposed to the full influence of 
the sun, and be rendered perfectly dry by draining or other- 
wise. Damp and shaded situations are peculiarly ill-adapted 
for this purpose, and should be avoided as having a tendency 
to injure, rather than to improve the various materials brought 
thither for the purpose of being ameliorated, and fitted for the 
more delicate fi"uits and plants. 



34 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



CHAP, 11. 



NATURE AND MANAGEMENT OF SOILS. 

Experience has taught us that different vegetables and 
fruits require not only different treatment in their various stages 
of growth, but also that they stand in need of different soils to 
bring them to any degi'ee of perfection. This has been parti- 
ally accounted for in the rationale laid down by Sir Humphry 
Davy on the necessity of a rotation of crops. It is, however, 
notwithstanding that doctrine, not always necessary that a dif- 
ferent soil should be prepared for every different production of 
the garden, for such a practice would not only be extravagant 
but absurd. Nature, in her infinite wisdom, has, among other 
wise ordinations, provided that soils of different natures are, in 
many cases, to be found in the same acre ; and, if possible, 
they should not be wanting in the same garden. In those 
cases, where nature has not been thus bountiful, recourse mu^ 
be had to art. 

The varieties of soil in any garden," says Nicol, " may 
be with propriety confined to the following : viz. strong clayey 
loam and light sandy loam, which are the two grand objects ; 
a composition of one-fourth strong, with three-fourths light, 
loam ; half strong and half light ; and one-fourth light and 
three-fourths strong. These, by a proper treatment, and 
with the proper application of manures, may be rendered 
productive of any of the known and commonly cultivated 
vegetables in the highest degree of perfection." 

Soils may be improved by a variety of operations performed 
on them, independently of their improvement by manures. 
This is a serious consideration to all cultivators of the earth, 
but much more so to the gardener than to the farmer ; and for 
this important reason, that it exonerates his productions fi-om 
the charge of being either unwholesome or ill tasted, on ac 
count of the pabulum, or food from which they derive their sup- 
port. Thus, vegetables grown in the open fields, where we 
are to suppose the land less glutted with manures, is by the 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



35 



majority of people preferred to those, which are grown in highly 
manured gardens. Hence the necessity is obvious, of im- 
proving the soil by other operations than that of yearly gorging 
it with more manure, than is actually necessary for bringing to 
perfection such vegetables, as are expected to be produced. 

The first and principal effort towards the improvement of 
soils is to be performed by the operation of pulverization, 
which is effected by trenching, digging, and ridging; the 
main object of which is, to give scope for the roots of vege- 
tables to penetrate in every direction to which they may be 
disposed in search of nourishment, as well as to prevent the 
free circulation of both air and water from being impeded. 
The mechanical division of the parts of soils is an improve- 
ment, and applicable to every soil according to its adhesive 
texture. The lightest soil will become, in course of time, if 
left undisturbed, too compact for the proper admission of air, 
rain, and heat, as well as for the fi-ee growth of the fibrous 
roots of plants ; and, on the other hand, strong lands will, in 
a much shorter time, become quite impenetrable to the roots 
of vegetables, the strong taproot of the oak, and some others 
only excepted. Without an abundance of roots, no vegetable 
flourishes, therefore we ought to adapt the soil, as much as 
possible, to the encouragement of those necessary organs, 
the conviction being strongly impressed on our minds, that 
the quantity of nourishment which is taken up, depends more 
on the number of absorbing fibres, than the quantity of nutri- 
tious extract contained in the soil. The rendering the soil of 
a proper consistency, by trenching or digging, is not only ne- 
cessary before sowing or planting, but also during the progress 
of vegetation, and this should be performed by digging or hoe- 
ing between the rows, or round the stems of plants. A strong 
proof is here adduced of the superiority of planting or sowing 
culinary vegetables in drills, as, by that means, the operation of 
pulverization is better and more conveniently performed. Even 
digging between the rows of some plants is of much importance 
to them, as by that means, it operates on the principle of 
pruning, by cutting off or shortening the extending fibres, 
which causes them to throw out a number of others, by which 
the mouths or pores of the plants are considerably increased ; 



S6 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



and thus, by multiplying the number of organs, the plants wili 
of course collect a greater quantity of food. 

The capillary attraction, or that property, which renders the 
humidity of the soil more uniform, is also promoted by trench- 
ing, digging, &c. It is evident, that those soils must be the 
ch'iest, where the particles of the soil are either naturally of 
the finest kind, such as sand, or rendered fine by digging or 
trenching. We find that gravels and sands, which are natur- 
ally reduced to fine particles, hardly retain any water at all, 
and frequently not even suflScient for the growth of vegetables, 
which is the cause of their sterihty ; whereas, on the other 
hand, clays not acted on by artificial operations, either do not 
absorb water, or when they do, they retain too much. Water 
is not only necessary to the growth of plants, but also to the 
production of extract fi'om the vegetable matter which they 
contain, and unless the soil be brought to that condition, so as 
to retain a certain quantity of water, just sufficient and no more 
to produce this extract, all endeavours to fertilize, by means of 
manures, will be fruitless. 

Manure is of no use to vegetation until it becomes soluble 
in water, and it would remain in that useless condition if it 
abounded so as to exclude the air, for v/ithout air, the fibres, 
or mouths of plants, would be unable to perform their functions, 
and so decay, and rot oft*. This principle, we see completely 
exemplified in the roots of plants in pots, when over watered, 
which gradually decay, and the plant dies. 

To admit the beneficial effects of air, as much as possible, 
is an important object. Dr. Darwin mentions, " the great pro- 
priety of cropping lands immediately after they have been com- 
" oinuted or turned over ; and this the more especially, if ma- 
nure has been added at the same time, as the process of fer- 
mentation will go on faster when the soil is loose, and the 
interstices filled with air, than afterwards, when it becomes 
compressed by its own gravity, the relaxing influence of rains, 
and the repletion of the partial vacuums formed by the decom- 
j>osition of the enclosed air. The advantage of the heat thus 
obtained, in exciting fermentation, whether in a seed or root, 
especially in the spring, when the soil is cold, must be con- 
siderable." 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



37 



It is necessary that all soils should be kept open by artificial 
means, for the purpose of admitting a sufficient quantity of 
warmth to the roots of plants. All earths are bad conductors, 
and therefore it would be long before the rays of heat could 
penetrate to a sufficient depth, particularly in spring, to be of 
much importance to the roots of vegetables, unless, indeed, the 
soil is, by frequent turning, rendered capable of admitting a 
free ingress of the warmth, both of the sun's rays and of tepid 
rains. 

Open soils are also necessary for the effecting of those 
changes, which all manures have to undergo, before they are in 
a proper state for food to vegetables. Animal and vegetable 
substances, when exposed to the action of light, air, and water 
undergo spontaneous decomposition, which would not other- 
wise take place, and by that process they are properly prepared 
for the nourishment of vegetables. 

The improvement of soils by pulverization, that is, by the 
operations of trenching, digging, hoeing, and stirring, we con- 
sider to be important, but we must not entertain the idea, that 
the proper management of the land consists in the adoption of 
that principle only; for, in the strictest sense of the word, 
pulverization is of no other benefit to the plants which grow in 
the soil, than that it increases the number of their fibrous 
roots or mouths, by which they imbibe their food, thereby 
facilitating the more perfect preparation of that food, and con- 
ducting it so prepared more regularly to their roots. Ground 
should never, for any length of time, lie uncultivated, or with- 
out being cropped, unless for the purpose of giving it rest ; and 
in that case, as soon as the crop is cleared off, all the refiise, 
which is left on the ground, should immediately be dug in ; 
this would not only have a tendency to improve the ground, 
but would give the garden always a more neat and orderly ap- 
pearance, and a considerable degree of labor would be thereby 
economised in the destruction of weeds. The time which it 
would take to hoe, rake, and clear off the rubbish of a quar- 
ter of the garden, when the crops are removed, will be almost 
equal to that, which it would take to dig it over ; and, in some 
cases, more time would be occupied, independently of the loss 
of the vegetable matter raked off, and which is cai'ried ofl 



ss 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



either to the rubbish-heap, or most generally thrown out into 
the woods, and therefore lost for ever. In most cases, the 
ground should be thrown up as rough as possible, presenting 
as large a surface to the action of the air as possible. Where 
the soil is of a stiff clay, no operation that can be performed 
within a garden, can be of such effectual use, as fallowing. It 
not only pulverizes the soil, but effectually clears it of weeds. 
When once weeds of the rooting sorts, such as, Ranunculus, 
Triticumi and some others, overrun a stiff clayey soil, no 
means can be adopted so likely to be attended with success in 
eradicating them, as fallowing ; and that process is not to 
be confined merely to digging over the ground, and leaving it 
in that state for months, till it becomes as bad as it was at 
first, but it must be followed up by repeated digging, raking, 
and hoeing, and never allowing the roots time to draw any 
nourishment fi'om, nor to re-establish themselves in the 
ground; this will at length exhaust them, and clear the ground 
of them entirely. Supposing, therefore, that no other advan- 
tage were obtained, that no nutritive matter was imbibed from 
the atmosphere, and the soil was neither chemically nor me- 
chanically improved by the operation, the benefit alone arising 
from the eradication of the weeds is sufficient to justify its 
practice. 

The advantages of aeration, or fallowing, either in winter or 
summer, are important; and although that great experiment- 
alist. Sir Humphry Davy, treats the matter lightly, yet the long 
experience of intelligent agriculturists and gardeners convinces 
us of the great benefit arising from its practice. One obvious 
advantage of summer fallowing, they say, is, that the soil may 
be thereby heated by the sun to a degi'ee, which it never could 
attain, if partially covered with the foliage of even the widest 
drilled crops. If the soil be laid up in rough ridges, or with 
its surface as rough as it possibly can be, it will consequently 
receive a greater quantity of heat, and will retain that heat 
longer, by means of the rough pieces thus heated, reflecting 
back the heat imbibed by each other. 

By the aeration of lands in winter, their minute mechanical 
division is obtained by the fi-eezing of the water in the soil, for 
as water, when frozen, occupies more space than when in a fluid 



THE CULINARY GARDEN- 



SI) 



state, the particles of earthy matter, and of stones liable to 
decomposition, are thus rent asunder, and crumble down into 
a fine mould. Independently of the benefits thus derived to the 
soil, the roots of weeds, insects and their eggs, are destroyed 
in greater quantities, than is generally supposed. 

Strong stubborn soils may be improved by burning, but this 
is more a matter of agriculture than horticulture. Light ones 
may be improved by compression, but neither of these soils is 
very proper for a garden. 

In the improvement of soils by the operation of ti'enching, 
particular care must be taken to perform it in moderation, tha*- 
is, to ti'ench the ground according to the depth of the soil. Ax 
garden-gi'ounds should be fi:om two to three feet deep of good 
mould, either natural or artificial, and for the quarters of gar- 
dens, this will be amply sufficient. The fruit-tree borders must 
of course be of various depths, according to the nature of the 
trees planted in them. In trenching too deep, much injury 
may be committed, as the better parts of the soil will thereby 
be buried, and the subsoil brought up to the surface in its crude 
state, which is wholly unfit for the nourishment of vegetables. 
The late Mr. Nicol adopted a very rational method of trench- 
ing, which is as follows : " Take three crops off' the first sur- 
face, and then trench three spit deep, by which the bottom and 
top are reversed, and the middle remains in the middle. Take 
three crops off' this surface, and then trench two spit ; by which 
the top becomes the middle, and the middle the top ; and 
take also three crops off' this surface, and then trench three 
spit, whereby that which was last the middle, and now top; 
becomes the bottom, and that which is now the bottom, and 
was the surface at first, now becomes surface again, after having 
rested six years. Proceed in this manner alternately, the one 
time trenching two spit deep, and the other three, by which 
means the surface will be always changed, and will rest six 
and produce three years. Hence there will always be new 
soil," (or, that is, soil greatly renovated, there being no such 
thing in reality as new soil,) " in the garden, for the production 
of wholesome vegetables ; and hence also will much less manure 
be required, than when the soil is shallow, and the same sur- 
face constantly in crop." He gogs on to say, upon the supposi- 



4-0 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



tioii that the soil is not sufficiently deep to admit of trenching 
three spit deep ; " in situations where the soil is only so deep 
to allow of trenching two spit, and where expense in making it 
deeper may be gi'udged, the above hint may also be followed 
with advantage, as by regularly trenching every third or fourth 
year, the ground will rest half its time; and, if judiciously 
managed and cropped in proper rotation, wholesome vegetables 
may be produced in it for many years successively." 

There are few instances where a garden can be trenched all 
in one year, neither is there any necessity for it, one division, 
quarter, or break, may be conveniently trenched annually, 
without interrupting the ordinary routine of business ; and, per- 
haps, in no way more conveniently than that recommended for 
planting the autumnal crops of the different species of cab- 
bage. 

A considerable expenditure will be saved, if the choice has 
been made of a soil of such a nature proper for the formation of 
a garden. Strong stubborn clays are to be avoided, being the 
most unfit of all others, as few vegetables will prosper in them, 
and the expense of rendering them more congenial will not only 
be excessive, but many years must expire, before all the power of 
art can ameliorate them in any tolerable degree; and even then, 
they will be imperfect, as the clay will always have the pre- 
dominant influence. Sand, lime, chalk, (where it can be pro- 
cured,) and coal-ashes, correct the tenacity of clayey soils, and 
make them work more pleasantly; the former, if sharp, or if 
it be river or sea-sand, with a mixture of shells, will, if dug in, 
in a sufficient quantity, render it of a lighter texture. Chalk 
should be spread on the surface in autumn, so that the whole 
may be pulverized by the action of the winter's fi'ost and rains, 
and dug in, in spring. It corrects the acidity of the clay, as 
well as renders it more friable. Lime acts much in the same 
way, but should be used more sparingly. Coal-ashes have 
much the same effect upon stiff soils. Lime rubbish dug in, is 
a good corrector of stiff soils, and is less objectionable than the 
coal-ashes. Decayed tanners' bark, bog-mould, or any vege- 
table mould applied to strong soils lightens them considerably. 
Such soils cannot be too much wi'ought by the spade; every 
opportunity should be taken to ridge and rough-dig strong soils. 



THE CULI>jARY GARDEN. 



4i 



and such operations should not be done in wet weather, nor 
when the ground has been saturated with wet. 

Gravelly soils are also very unfit for garden ground, as being 
generally of themselves sterile, and not readily enriched by 
manures, the finer particles of which are washed off by the 
rains; and they are also subject to suffer much from drought in 
summer, as they are not capable of retaining a sufficient quan- 
tity of moisture to support the crops in dry weather. Such 
soils are capable of improvement, by divesting them of the 
greater portion of small stones, and by the addition of strong 
loam, or even any tolerably good earth ; and this must be applied 
in quantities sufficient to form a body capable of retaining a 
sufficient quantity of moisture for the support of future crops. 
Light sandy, or even gravelly soils, are, however, not without 
their advantages, because they are much warmer, and by afford- 
ing a much less quantity of moisture, the crops will not grow 
so luxuriantly, and therefore be much sooner fit for use than 
those, which are grown on strong clayey soils. Early spring 
and winter crops are not only much earlier on sandy soils than 
upon clayey, but are also much more capable of resisting the 
fi'ost. On the approach, however, of the summer's drought, 
the crops either fail entirely, or else are unproductive and of 
short duration. 

The soil most proper for the purpose of garden culture 
should, therefore, be neither too strong nor clayey, nor of too 
loose and gravelly a quality, but of a rich and rather a light 
pliant nature, capable of being m'ought at all seasons without 
inconvenience, and of sufficient depth to allow the roots of all 
sorts of trees and plants to extend themselves with facility. 
Black vegetable, hazelly brown, and chestnut-coloured loams, 
are all proper for the purpose of garden ground; and all those, 
which are of a more stiff' and tenacious nature, or too loose, and 
insufficient to support trees and plants, must be made good by 
the application of such substances as are of a contrary nature. 
In procuring mould, either for improving or renewing the soil, 
care should be taken to prefer such only as is near the surface, 
as it is in general the most productive and fruitful, and is in 
reality, the true vegetable earth. The top spit, that is, to 
tne depth of one foot from the surface of any common or field. 



¥2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



which has not been much cropped, is to be preferred, and the 
fuller it is of fibrous matter, the better it will prove for the 
growth of the plants. Soils of the best quality will be much 
improved by occasional top dressings of such mould, either 
applied in its fresh state, or afler having been partially ame- 
liorated by being kept in the compost yard for a few months 
before it is used. 

Mould dug from a greater depth is not fit for use in its 
crude state, but should be exposed a twelvemonth at least to 
the action of the weather, and even then, it is deficient of 
most of the vegetable and animal matter, of which the top spit 
is chiefly composed. 



CHAP. III. 



VARIETY AND USES OF MANURES. 

Vegetables are fbund by chemical analysis to be composed 
of oxygen, hydrogen, carbon, and nitrogen, or azote, -with a 
small portion of saline bodies. It is evident, therefore, that 
the substances employed as manures, should also be composed 
of those elements, for unless they are, there will be a defi- 
ciency in some of the elements in the vegetable itself; and it is 
probable, that such deficiency may prevent the formation of 
those substances within it, for which its peculiar organization 
is contrived, and on which its healthy existence depends. Of 
these elementary bodies, oxygen, hydrogen and carbon, are 
contained in vegetable, and the whole of them in animal mat- 
ter. Nitrogen is sometimes, but rarely, found in vegetable mat- 
ter. These, with certain salts, form the food or manures of 
vegetables. 

The manures in general use in gardens are numerous, but 
we shall only notice those, which are considered the most useful, 
and of these, the dung of horses, if not the best, is certainly 
the most general in use. With this dung, in different states of 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



43 



fermentation, we grow many of the tropical and exotic fi'uits 
and vegetables, which the inclemency of our climate prevents 
us having in the open air ; and after it is of no farther use in 
those departments, we carry it out to manure our lands. This 
practice, however prevalent, is condemned by Sir H. Davy and 
other chemists, who assert that, by undergoing fermentation 
beyond a certain limit, the principles of manure, or those parts 
which really constitute the food of vegetables, are lost. All 
gardeners, however, agree in using manures after they have 
undergone a certain degree of fermentation, without which, it is 
supposed they would communicate a rank and disagreeable fla- 
vour to fruits and vegetables, and if applied in an immoderate 
quantity, would, in a considerable degree, give an unwhole- 
someness to the juices of all plants. To what particular degree 
this fermentation should be carried, before the manure be laid 
on the soil, deserves our particular attention. 

That slight fermentation is of use before application, is un- 
doubted, for by means of it, a disposition is brought on in the 
woody fibre to decay and dissolve, when it is carried and dug 
into the soil ; too great a degree of fermentation is, however, 
very prejudicial to the manure. It is better, says Sir H. Davy, 
that there should be no fermentation at all, than that it should 
be carried too far. The excess of fermentation, he adds, tends 
to the dissipation and destruction of the most useful pai'ts of 
the manure, and the ultimate results of this process are like 
those of combustion. It is a common practice to suffer dung to 
ferment till the fibrous texture of the vegetable matter be en- 
tirely broken down, and till the manure becomes perfectly cold 
and soft: this is the case generally of dung, which has been em- 
ployed in melon or other hot-beds, and which is generally 
preferred and used by practical gardeners. During the pro- 
cess of fermentation necessary to reduce it to this state of 
decay, not only a large portion of fluid, but also of gaseous 
matter is lost, so much so, that the dung is often reduced to 
less than two-thirds of its original weight; and the principal 
elastic matter, which is lost or disengaged, is carbonic acid with 
some ammonia, either of which, if retained or conveyed to the 
soil, is capable of yielding a considerable degree of useful 
nourishment to plants. 



44 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



It is also argued in favour of unfermented dung, that it goes 
much farther ; if this really be the case, and that it produces 
no bad effect on the fruits and vegetables, it will be important 
to devise other means of producing heat for the production of 
forced vegetables, and by so doing, reserve for the soil that 
proper nourishment, which is designed by nature for the food of 
plants. But this is a matter of much less consequence to the 
gardener, than it is to the farmer. The former has generally 
much less space to go over, and his productions are generally 
of such a description, as to be more sensibly affected by the ap- 
plication of crude and unprepared manures, which are apt to 
communicate a rank and disagreeable flavour to vegetables, and 
are productive of serious injury to the roots of tender fruit-trees, 
if applied in certain quantities and qualities. In most cases, 
therefore, we would recommend the application of manure 
which has undergone a degree of fermentation in the hot-bed j 
or if it has remained two or three months in that state, it 
will not be too much, • nless fermentation has been greatly ex- 
cited. In this state, it will be better for the garden than dung 
quite fresh, or that which may have lain for a twelvemonth. 

The following table shows the relative constitution of com- 
mon stable manure, and our usual crops. 

Crops. 

These are chief components of all 
plants ; 

In some vegetables ; 
In almost all plants ; 
In Cucumbers, Garlic, &c. ; 
Perhaps in all plants ; 
In Cucumbers, Garlic, &c. ; 
In all corn, and many other plants ; 
Potatoes, Onions, &c. &c. ; 
In most plants ; 

In most plants. 

Next to the dung of horses, that of oxen and other cattle is 
in general use, and if slightly fermented, is an excellent ma- 



Stable Manure. 
Carbon, 
Hydrogen, 
Oxygen, 
Nitrogen, 

Carbonate of Lime, 
Muriate of Potash, 
Muriate of Soda, 
Sulphate of Potash, 
Magnesia, 
Phosphate of Lime, 
Oxide of Iron, 
Alumina, 
Silica, 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



45 



nure for light hot soils ; it is also well calculated for soils of a 
dry absorbent nature, as it retains its moisture for a greater 
length of time than most others. 

Green vegetable matter is an excellent manure, but less 
attended to than it ought to be. All plants in a succulent state 
contain much saccharine or mucilaginous matter, and therefore 
cannot be used too soon after their death. It has been the 
practice to carry all vegetable matter considered as useless to 
the compost yard, and, by collecting it in a mass, a quantity 
of vegetable mould or manure, has thus been procured; but 
this is a great waste of the best parts of the manure, and should 
only be adopted when such vegetable mould may be required 
for particular purposes. Instead of collecting all the weeds, 
useless vegetables, &c., in a garden to one heap, let the follow- 
ing simple mode be adopted. When a piece of ground is going 
to be dug, go round and collect all the decaying vegetables, 
&c., and immediately dig them in. The sweepings of grass- 
walks and lawns are also of much use as a vegetable manure ; 
and on being brought every day into the garden, they should be 
dug in, before fermentation commences. But it must be observed 
that they should not be buried at too great a depth, otherwise 
fermentation will be prevented by compression, and the exclu- 
sion of air. Green crops, pond-weeds, the parings of hedges 
or ditches, fresh turf, or any kind of fresh vegetable manure, 
require no preparation to fit them for manure. The decom- 
position slowly proceeds under ground, the soluble matters are 
gradually dissolved, and the slight fermentation that goes on, 
checked by the want of a free communication of air, tends to 
render the woody fibre soluble, without occasioning the rapid 
dissipation of elastic matter. 

Sea-weeds, where they can be procured, make excellent 
manure for most vegetables, but particularly for sea-kale, arti- 
chokes, and asparagus. This manure is transient in its effects, 
and does not last more than for a single crop, which is accounted 
for by its containing a large portion of water, or the elements 
thereof. It decays without producing heat when exposed 
to the atmosphere, and seems, as it were, to melt down and 
dissolve away. It is sometimes suffered to ferment before it is 
used, but this is quite unnecessary, for there is no fibrous 



46 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



matter rendered soluble by that process, and a part of the 
manure is therefore lost. The best cultivators use it, as fresh 
as it can be procured, and the practical results of this mode 
are exactly conformable to the theory of its operation. The 
carbonic acid, formed by its incipient fermentation, must be 
partly dissolved by the water which is set free in the same 
process, and thus becomes capable of being absorbed by the 
roots of plants. As a manure, the effects of sea-weed must 
depend on this carbonic acid, and on the soluble mucilage 
which it may contain. Some fucus has been found to have 
lost half its weight by fermentation, and afforded less than 
one-twelfth of mucilaginous matter ; from this we may conclude, 
that some of this substance is destroyed in the course of fer- 
mentation. 

The dung of birds, either wild or domesticated, affords a 
powerful manure, particularly that of the former. We are 
informed by Humbold, that the guano, which is used to fertilize 
the barren plains of Peru, is employed in such quantities for 
he maize crops, that fifty vessels are laden with it annually at 
Chinche, each of which carries from fifteen hundi'ed to two 
thousand cubical feet. 

Pigeon's dung was, and still is, in great esteem in Persia, 
where they manure their melons with it, and was sold at a high 
price during the famine in Samaria, when a cab, not quite 
three pints corn measure, sold for five pieces of silver. It is 
a powerful manure, and should only be used as a compound, 
or if used as a simple, the greatest care must be observed in 
the disti'ibution of it. We have found it the best manure for 
strawberries of any which we have tried. If used as a com- 
pound with fresh loam, cow-dung, or other manure, it should lie 
for some time to be sufficiently incorporated, so as to admit of 
equal distribution. 

The dung of sheep and deer affords good manure, but is 
seldom used in gardens ; nevertheless, if circumstances would 
admit of it, sheep folded for a few nights on any spare garden- 
ground would do much to improve it ; in such a case, how- 
ever, it would be necessary to have it dug in as soon as pos- 
sible, as by lying long on the ground, the better parts of it 
soon escape by evaporation. Its chemical properties are nearly 



THE CULINARY GARDEf^. 



47 



the same, and, by long boiling m water, are found to afford 
soluble matters, which equal from two to three per cent, of 
their weight. These soluble substances, which are produced 
by solution and evaporation, contain, when examined, a small 
quantity of matter analogous to animal mucus, and are princi- 
pally composed of bitter extract, soluble both in water and 
alcohol. They give ammoniacal fumes by distillation, and 
differ very little in composition. 

Soot is a very powerful manure, and ought to be used in a 
dry state, and thrown on the surface of the ground. It is sup- 
posed to be a preventive, to a certain extent, to wire-worms and 
maggots. This is, probably, owing to its bitter extract, which 
it gives out to hot water. It likewise contains an empyreumatic 
oil. It has been used on crops of onions ; it is sown at all 
times with good effect, and where it has been sown, no maggot 
has appeared. It also has been used for a like purpose on 
garden and pasture-land, most probably for the extinction of 
the wire-worm, but a solution of it in water would perhaps be 
preferable. 

Bones have of late years been much used for a manure. 
After they have been boiled for the grease which they contain, 
they are then sold for manure, and have been strongly recom- 
mended for vine borders. The expense of collecting and 
grinding them is too great to allow of their general adoption. 

Horn is a similar manure to bone, only much more power- 
ful, as it contains a larger quantity of decomposable animal 
matter. The shavings or dust of horn, form an excellent 
manure, but, like the dust of bones, are not to be obtained in 
sufficient quantities to be of general use. 

Blood contains a certain quantity of all the principles found in 
other animal substances, and is, consequently, a good manure. 
It may be collected in some quantities at the slaughter-houses 
of butchers in large towns, and where sugar manufactories are 
carried on, bullocks' blood being used there in the process of 
separating by the heat of the boiler, the impurities of brown 
sugar, by the coagulation of its albuminous matter. 

Much has been said of late years for and against the use of 
salt as a manure. Mr. Joseph Hayward, the ingenious author 
eif the Science of Horticulture, &c., observes, after making 



4^ 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



many experiments with sea-salt, nitre, soda, barilla, alum, &c. 
that he never found them operate so as a proportional addition 
of food might be expected to do, and draws the following con- 
clusion : " Notwithstanding all that has been said to establish 
the opinion, that sea-salt is a valuable manure, I am convincea 
it never can, as an article of food, contribute to the increase 
of any vegetable ; but as a chemical agent, by destroying and 
facilitating the decomposition of animals and vegetables, or by 
its deliquiescence, it may, in some instances, increase the fer- 
tihty of the soil." 

Urine of most animals affords a good liquid manure, but it is 
necessary to use it as soon as possible, as it is liable to undergo 
the putrefactive process, and the urine of some animals putrifies 
more rapidly than that of others. It should never be applied 
as a simple ; and if not mixed with solid matter, it should be 
diluted with water. When pure, it contains too large a por- 
tion of animal matter to form a proper nom'ishing fluid for the 
absorption of plants. 

The ashes of wood, if not too much burnt, are said to be a 
lasting manure ; this, however, must depend on the quantity 
of charcoal which they may contain, resulting most probably 
from the slow and gi'adual consumption of the charcoal parts. 
These ashes are obtained in considerable quantities from lime 
or brick-kilns, where wood is used for burning. They are 
generally sown among turnips, and are supposed to be of use 
in protecting them from the fly. Charcoal-dust may be often 
obtained, where it is made for the iron manufactories, or for 
domestic purposes. This dust gives out its fertilizing proper- 
ties in the most slow and gradual manner possible. 

Saw-dust, shavings, and tanners' bark, are sometimes ap- 
plied as manure ; but as they are mere woody fibre, which is 
the only vegetable matter that requires fermentation to render 
it nutritive to plants, little good is to be expected from their 
application. Either of them, however, may be used as a cor- 
rector of strong lands, without doing any injury, if not applied 
in an immoderate quantity. All animal substances are powerful 
manures, and require no chemical preparation to fit them for 
the soil. The great object is to blend them with other matters, 
so as to prevent their too rapid decomposition. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



49 



Of all mineral manures, lime is most known, and generally 
used, and various have been the conjectures regarding the 
method of its application. It is generally used either as quick 
lime, that is, in the state immediately after being burnt, and 
before it has been much exposed to the action of atmospheric 
air, or before water has been applied to it. It is also used 
as mild lime, which is quick lime exposed for a certain time 
to the action of the atmosphere. The solution of the question, 
whether quick lime should be applied to a soil, depends on the 
quantity of inert vegetable matter that it contains ; and the 
solution of the question, whether marl, mild lime, or powdered 
limestone ought to be applied, depends on the quantity of 
calcareous matter already in the soil. All soils which do not 
effervesce with acids are improved by mild lime, and ulti- 
mately by quick lime. Sands are more improved by lime than 
clays. When a soil, which is deficient in calcareous matter, 
contains much soluble vegetable manure, the application of 
quick lime should always be avoided, as it tends either to de- 
compose the soluble matters, by uniting to them carbon and 
oxygen, so as to become mild lime ; or it combines with the 
soluble matters, and forms those compounds, which have less 
attraction for water, than the pure vegetable substances : the 
case is the same with respect to most animal manures, but the 
operation of the lime is different in various cases, and depends 
on the nature of the animal matter. Lime forms a kind of in- 
soluble soap with oily matters, and then gradually decomposes 
them by separating from them their oxygenic and carbonic pro- 
perties. It combines also with the animal acids, and probably 
assists their decomposition by abstracting carbonaceous matter 
from them combined with oxygen, and consequently it must 
render them less nutritive. It tends, likewise, from the same 
causes, to diminish the nutritive powers of albumen, and always 
destroys, to a certain extent, the efficacy of animal manures^ 
either by entering into combination with certain of their ele- 
ments, or by giving them a new arrangement. 

Lime should never be applied with animal manures, unless 
they be too rich, or for the purpose of preventing noxious 
effluvia. It is injurious, when mixed with any common dung, 
and tends to render the extractive matter insoluble. All limes 

H 



50 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



have not the same effect ; Hme-stones, containing ahmine and 
silica, are less fitted for the pin-pose of manure, than pm'e hme- 
stone ; but the Hme formed from them has no noxious quahty : 
such stones arc less efficacious, merely because they furnish a 
less quantity of quick lime. There is seldom any considerable 
portion of coaly matter in bituminous lime-stones, never ex- 
ceeding five parts in one hundred, but such lime-stones make 
very good lime. The carbonaceous matter can do no injury to 
the land, and may, under certain circumstances, become a 
food for the plant. Lime that contains certain portions of 
magnesia has been found to do much injury to the crops on 
which it has been applied ; while, in other cases, it has been 
found to be productive of much good. It is a general remark, 
that lime containing magnesia may be applied in large quan- 
tities to peats ; and that when lands have been injured by the 
application of too large a portion of magnesian lime, peat will 
be the most proper and efficient remedy. Nitric acid, or aqua- 
fortis, is a simple test to detect the presence of magnesia in lime- 
stone. The application is to steep the stone in the diluted 
liquid, and the magnesia will be detected by its turning the 
liquid of a milky hue. Magnesian lime-stones are usually of a 
brown or pale yellow color. 

Coal was first discovered by Hazenfrez to be an essential 
ingredient in the food of vegetables, and is now used as a 
manure with good effect. Mr. Kirwan observes, that coal, 
" though hitherto little attended to, appears to be one of the 
primeval principles, as ancient as the present constitution of 
our globe ; for it is formed in fixed air, of which it constitutes 
above one-fourth part, and fixed air exists in lime-stones, and 
other substances, which have their date from the origin of 
things." 

Manures, whether animal or mineral, are of such import- 
ance to vegetation, that we should use all possible diligence in 
the collecting and preparing of them for the different purposes, 
for which they may be required. By a proper application of 
them, and by a rotation of cropping, founded on just principles, 
the worst garden-ground may be not only improved, but ren- 
dered fit for the production of every vegetable, that is usually 
cultivated in these islands. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN, 51 

For the more convenient preparation of compost manures, a 
piece of ground, to which all fertilizing matter is to be car- 
ried, should be enclosed near the garden, and so situated as 
to enjoy the full influence of sun and rain, there to be incor- 
porated, fermented, and prepared for the several purposes for 
which they may be wanted. In this place should also be 
accumulated all sorts of moulds, for the greater convenience of 
having them ameliorated, and rendered fit for their destined 
purposes; either to be mixed in composition with other ma- 
nures, or to be used simply for the growth of peculiar plants, 
or for improving and renewing such pieces of garden-land as 
may require it. In collecting these moulds, recourse must be 
had to the fields and commons, where they are to be obtained. 
No pains should be spared in collecting a sufiicient quantity, 
and they should be applied with an unsparing hand to those 
parts of the garden which may require them. But when it 
happens, as is often the case from a variety of circumstances, 
that moulds of good quality cannot be easily procured, a rigid 
care must be taken of them, as they will be required for some 
of the more delicate plants ; and substitutes must be devised 
when such moulds are not to be had in their primitive state, 
which may be effected by blending substances of opposite prin- 
ciples, which often produce a compound extremely well cal- 
culated to promote the welfare of certain plants. No oppor- 
tunity should be lost in collecting earths of various sorts from 
all places where they are to be procured. The scrapings of 
turnpike roads are a useful manure in strong lands, provided 
the roads be composed of gravelly or chalky materials. Thus 
road-sand formed of pounded flints, which is often to be met 
with, is not only an excellent manure and a lightener of strong 
lands, but also makes very good walks, which are both dry and 
easily kept clean. 

The following method of obtaining a cheap and efficacious 
manure, is recommended by Mr. James Reed, of Bristol. 
Raise a platform of earth, on any spare piece of land, eight 
feet wide, one foot high, and of any length according to the 
quantity wanted. On the first stratum of earth lay a thin 
stratum of lime, fresh from the kiln ; dissolve or slack this with 
brine from the rose of a watermg-pot, and immediately add 



52 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



another layer of earth ; then Hme and brine as before, carrying 
it to any convenient height. In a week, it should be turned 
over, carefully broken and mixed, so that the whole mass 
may be thoroughly incorporated. This compost has been used 
in Ireland ; has doubled the crops of potatoes and cabbages, 
and is said to be far superior to stable dung. 



CHAP. IV. 



DRAINING, ITS VARIETIES AND EFFECTS. 

Draining must be acknowledged as the principal step to- 
wards the improvement of soils, particularly such as are, either 
from their natural situations, overcharged with moisture, arising 
fr'om their lying below the general level of the surrounding 
grounds, or from the existence of natural springs within them. 
Although this be a subject, which falls more particularly under 
the arrangement of the agriculturist, it is nevertheless of the 
first importance to the gardener. Soils naturally wet, or sub- 
ject to excess of moisture from various causes, are of all others 
the least fit for the operations of garden-culture. Circum- 
stances, however, may occur, when from a want of sufficient 
choice of situation, the garden may be so placed as to require 
to be rendered perfectly dry by artificial means ; and indeed 
in all situations, draining should be particularly attended to, 
were it for no other purpose than to carry off the superfluous 
moisture occasioned by heavy or long-continued rains. As a 
precautionary measure, we would recommend, that whatever 
the soil or situation may be, it should be sufficiently and sub- 
stantially drained before any attempts be made for further im- 
provements. Soils naturally wet, are cold and late ; however 
abundantly they may produce certain crops during the heat of 
summer, are, nevertheless, to the majority of garden product- 
ions, attended with the most injurious consequences. Although 
plants will not live without water, a superabundance of it is 
equally detrimental to them, particularly when it remains stag- 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



53 



nant at their roots, by obstructing perspiration and intro-sus- 
ception ; and whenever that be the case, they soon become 
diseased and ultimately die. 

The process of draining is performed in a variety of ways, 
according to the soil to be operated upon, and the materials of 
which they are to be constructed. Oui' limits will not admit 
of entering into the details of the different varieties and sub- 
varieties of di-aining, neither is it at all necessary for our pur- 
pose, as the extent of ground, under the most unfavourable 
circumstances in the formation of a garden, is capable of being 
rendered perfectly dry by the ordinary methods of draining. 

Water, like all other fluids, remains stationary when ob- 
structed, but when unobstructed, proceeds by the force of its 
own gravity. A tube filled with water, and placed perfectly 
horizontally, with both ends open, the liquid will flow equally 
at both ends ; but elevate one of the ends of the tube, and 
the water will flow out at the other with a rapidity propor- 
tionable to the elevation of the tube and the weight or quan- 
tity of water it contains. In the process of draming, there- 
fore, the main or principal drains should be formed on an 
inclined plane, into which the smaller or collecting drains 
should empty themselves, and the greater the fall of the prin- 
cipal drains, the more readily will they discharge the water 
collected in them. The principal drains should commence at 
a considerable distance from the garden, so as to admit of 
their discharging their contents at a proper distance from it, 
and they should extend in a direction towards the hot-houses, 
sheds, or other horticultural erections, and also to those 
points, which indicate any appearance of springs or superabund- 
ance of moisture; and, as we have before noticed, for the 
greater facility of repairing or examining them at any future 
period, they should run under the walks as far as the nature 
of the situation will admit. 

The materials of which di'ains are composed are various, 
and depend on the facility with which they can be procured. 
In situations, where stones can be had, they make the best 
and most lasting drains ; flints, chalk in large pieces, which 
have not been exposed to the air for any length of time, and 
brick-bats, are all excellent materials for drains. Brush-wood 



54 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



is not unfrequently used in countries where none of the above- 
mentioned materials are to be procured, and although making 
a less permanent di'ain, will, for a few years, act sufficiently, 
yet, fi'om the liability of wood to decay, it is probably the 
worst material that can be chosen for this purpose. Earthen- 
ware tiles of various forms and sizes, have been used for 
draining, but these materials are better adapted for carry- 
ing off the water when once collected, than for the actual pur- 
pose of collecting it ; however, they are sometimes made per- 
forated with a considerable number of holes for the purpose 
of admitting the water into them. For lands liable to sudden 
inundations, tile-draining is excellent, and the nearer the 
surface they are, provided they be under the reach of the 
plough or spade, the more effectually will they act. Which- 
ever of these materials be used, it is important that they 
be laid as hollow as possible, that the water may the more 
readily find a passage through them ; and, in forming the main 
or principal di'ains, they should be built, so as to leave an open 
space, at least nine inches or a foot square, at their bottoms ; 
over this should be laid, in an open manner, a sufficiency of 
the same material wherewith to fill the drains to within a 
few inches of the surface of the walks, if the drains be placed 
under them, and to within fifteen or eighteen inches of the sur- 
face of the ground, when they are under the quarters or borders. 
The depth at which these principal drains should run, can only 
be determined by local circumstances ; but the collecting 
or cross drains need not be either so deep nor yet so broad, 
neither is it requisite that they should be built with a va- 
cuity so capacious. For most purposes, a space of a few 
inches in the clear will be sufficient, and should be formed 
of the following shape. A, which is readily done by placing the 
larger pieces of the materials resting against each other at the 
top, and thus forming a rude, though strong arch, capable of 
resisting any pressure, which is likely to be placed upon it. Like 
the main drains, the nearer to the surface these smaller ones 
can be filled with porous materials, the better will they collect 
and carry off the superabundant water. In draining with 
brush-wood, no cavity is usually formed, although no doubt 
can exist that for principal drains, two planks laid so as to leave 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



bb 



SL triangular vacuity under them would be beneficial in its effects, 
and admit of the water passing more readily off. Where gravel 
is to be had, excellent drains may be formed by introducing 
drain tiles in the bottom, and filling up the remainder of the 
drain to a sufficient depth with coarse gravel ; and, in such cases, 
the expense of screening out the finer particles through a coarse 
screen will be repaid by facilitating the escape of the water. 
Consistently with a previous observation, chalk, when newly 
dug, and when it runs in large pieces, makes drains equal to 
stone, but it must be used before being exposed to the action 
of the atmosphere, for when once charged with moisture, and 
exposed to frost, it becomes pulverized ; but if used soon after it 
is dug, it will last for ages, and of itself absorb a large portion 
of moisture. Heath and furze are not unfrequently used for 
draining when no better materials can be procured, but when 
laid in quantities even considerably below the surface, and 
beyond the action of the air, they are liable, from their dispo- 
sition, to ferment. They may be used for temporary draining, 
and for that purpose are often employed by agriculturists ; but 
in draining ground for garden-purposes, the inconvenience 
which arises in repairing such drains is so great as to render all 
kinds of temporary di-aining, radically bad. There are few 
soils, during their preparation for garden-purposes, which do 
not afford a considerable quantity of stones, gravel, &c., and 
the refuse in the erection of walls, hot-houses, &c., if collected, 
will supply, in many cases, sufficient materials for this pur- 
pose. When they are found inadequate, recourse must be 
had to other sources to supply the deficiency. Draining, 
although long practised in the improvement of soils, has only 
of late years been properly understood; and it must be ad- 
mitted, that too little attention is generally paid to this im- 
portant point, in the first formation of many gardens. When- 
ever that be the case, the defects will for ever be obvious in the 
diseased state of the fruit-bearing trees, and in the late and 
unproductive crops of the most common vegetables. 

When the garden is so situated as to be subject to occasional 
floodings, fi'om the rapid melting of snow or sudden falls of 
rain, which is frequently the case, when lying at the foot of 
hills, ov on steep declivities, it is oflen necessary in such cases 



56 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



to Open drains along their highest side, on the exterior of the 
boundary fence, to cut off the possibihty of its entering into 
the ground, which, were it permitted to do, the consequences 
would be fatal to many of the smaller crops, by washing a 
great portion of earthy matter over them, and repeated inundat- 
ions of this kind would ultimately carry off the greater and 
better portion of the soil from the most elevated parts, and 
deposit it in those parts, which are lower. 

As these floods are generally confined to the surface-drains 
for their reception, they need not be deep, provided that they 
be regularly cleared of filth, which will naturally accumulate 
in them. But as this is a matter not always attended to, it is 
better to make them of a considerable depth in the first in- 
stance, say from three to four feet, according to local circum- 
stances. Where land-floods are not apprehended, it also be- 
comes necessary in many instances, where the declivity is great, 
or the situation placed at the bottom of rising grounds, to 
make considerable drains for the purpose of cutting off the 
quantity of water, which naturally flows from them. For this 
latter purpose, it is requisite they should be cut to a much 
greater depth, in order the better to intercept the water, as it 
flows through the strata, which, in many cases, are several 
feet below the surface. Unless such drains are sunk below the 
channels through which the water flows, little good can be 
expected to arise from them. Deep open drains are object- 
ionable, inasmuch as they occupy a considerable space of 
ground, which is thereby rendered almost useless ; still, for 
this and similar purposes, they have a decided advantage over 
those, that are filled up even with good materials, by cutting 
off more effectually the flow of water. Drains for this purpose 
might be readily constructed so as to answer both purposes, by 
filling up the bottom part of them, as already recommended for 
principal or main drains, and leaving the upper half in form of 
an open drain, sloping the banks back to prevent their fall- 
ing in. 

Willows and dwarf trees or shrubs may be advantageously 
planted on their banks, and would soon hide them, where that 
is deemed necessary. The depth to which drains should be 
cut depends in all cases on the nature of the soil, the depth of 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



57 



springs, and other circumstances for which no direct rules can 
be laid down. We, however, may go so far as to say, that 
deep clayey soils seldom require deep draining ; their natural 
closeness of texture preventing the process of filtration from 
going on ; and if rendering the surface dry, be the object in 
view, the drains cannot well be made too shallow, provided 
that they do not impede the necessary operations of digging and 
trenching: for such soils, three feet may be esteemed an 
average depth for the collecting drains, but the principal ones 
should always be regulated in depth by the level necessary for 
carrying off the water. 

Where the soil is of a mossy nature, the effects will be more 
complete if the stratum be completely cut through, as the water 
will be found in such cases to flow in greater quantities between 
that, and the stratum immediately beneath it. Gravelly soils 
are of all others most effectually drained, even should they be 
charged with a greater quantity of water ; for as it is of all soils 
the most porous, the water consequently finds a more ready 
passage through them. As draining is attended with a great 
expense when carried to any considerable extent, the least 
quantity of solid matter to be removed becomes important; 
hence it follows, that the narrower that they can be cut, the 
less expense will attend the operation, and a less quantity of 
draining materials will be required to fill them. As a general 
rule, from which there are few exceptions, they should not be 
cut broader, than merely sufficient to admit of the operators 
getting to a sufficient depth; and in most cases, where no 
obstacle, such as rock occurs, for drains of four feet in depth, 
two feet in width will be amply sufficient, but for drains (jf 
greater depth, the breadth must be increased accordingly. 

Deep drains should always be filled up and finished as the 
operation of excavation goes on, for if they be left open long 
they not unfrequently fall in, and often render the labor 
and expense doubly great. When drains are made up to 
their proper height with stones, or any of the substitutes re- 
commended, a small quantity of heath, straw, or shavings, 
should be put over the stones to prevent the finer particles of 
soil filling: up the crevices between them, and where none of 

1 



58 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER 



these can be conveniently got, thin turf laid with the gi-een side 
undermost will be an excellent substitute. 

The season best calculated for the process of draining is 
either late in autumn or early in spring, at which periods, the 
springs are high ; the probability, therefore, of detecting their 
course is then more likely to be attained than at any other 
period during summer, when the quantity of water will be 
lessened by evaporation, or during the winter months, when 
the springs also become low or are impeded by the frost. 



CHAP, V. 



SYSTEMATIC ALTERNATION OF CROPS. 

In the cultivation of the ground, either in farming or gar- 
dening, a proper attention to the regular rotation of crops 
forms one of the first and principal features of good manage- 
ment, although its beneficial influence has not yet been fully 
accounted for by chymists. The rationale of rotation is thus 
given by Sir Humphry Davy : " It is a great advantage in the 
convertable systems of cultivation, that the whole of the manure 
be employed ; and that those parts of it, which are not fitted for 
one crop, remain as nourishment for another. Thus, if the 
turnip be the first in order of succession, this crop manured 
with recent dung immediately finds sufficient soluble matter for 
its nourishment, and the heat produced by fermentation assists 
the germination of the seed, and the growth of the plant. If 
after turnips, barley with grass-seed be sown, then the land 
being but little exhausted by the turnip crop, affords the 
soluble parts of the decomposing manure to the grain. The 
grasses, rye-grass, and clover remain, which derive a small 
part only of their organized matter from the soil, and probably 
consume the gypsum in the manure, which would be useless to 
other crops; these plants, likewise, by their large system of 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



59 



leaves, absorb a considerable quantity of nourishment from the 
atmosphere, and when ploughed in, at the end of two years, 
the decay of their roots and leaves affords manure for the wheat 
crop ; and, at this period of the course, the woody fibre of the 
farm-yard manure, which contains the phosphate of lime, and 
rhe other difficultly soluble parts, are broken down, and as soon 
as the most exhausting crop is taken, recent manure is again 
applied." 

Gardeners should pay particular attention to rotation of 
crops, as far as the nature of the thing will admit of; a good 
practice is to sow down part of the garden every season in grass, 
clover, and barley, which may be used as green food for horses 
and cows. The barley should be sown with the clover, and cut 
down, not being allowed to ripen; thus it acts as a nurse 
and a shade to the clover. But, in all cases where this is done, 
let the ground be laid down in as good condition as possible, and 
the manure laid on will not be lost. Land thus laid down in 
grass should continue so for two years, or if for three tlie greater 
will be the benefit. However, this is generally regulated by the 
quantity of ground which can be spared from crops, for the time 
when the ground is wanted. The crop of grass, if dug in, but 
not too deep, for reasons given already, will materially improve 
the soil ; but on no occasion whatever trench it in, as is too 
often the case. This practice, although excellent, can however 
only be applied to gardens on a large extent ; for its adoption 
would not be attended with the same advantages in the general 
run of our gardens. 

By a rotation of the perennial crops, such as quartering 
out currants, gooseberries, and raspberries, &c., the ground 
will not only be renewed, but also rested, or at least very 
much improved. None of these crops need occupy the ground 
above twelve years, and not less than three; this, toge- 
ther with trenching for the principal crops of autumn-planted 
brassica will keep the ground in fresh order, and be attended 
with no loss of space ; for in all large gardens, and the gene- 
rality of small ones, new plantations of these things should 
be made to a certain extent annually, which will throw a certain 
proportion of ground into regular rotation. In cropping all 
gardens, as far as it can be rendered practicable, rotation 



60 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



should be aimed at, and thus, by keeping all the legumes, as 
peas and beans, the brassica or cabbage kinds, the bulbous 
or onion kinds, and lighter crops, as salads, &c., by them- 
selves, each following in regular succession, the garden would 
not only look better, but would, to a certain degree, produce 
the rotation required. In no case should any of the brassica 
tribe follow another upon the same piece of ground, neither 
should peas follow peas, nor beans, beans ; onions are, probably, 
the only exception in garden culture. A journal, or plan of 
the garden should be kept, and the ground divided into por- 
tions, each of which should be numbered, and a careful record 
kept of all crops, manurings, trenchings, &c. 

The necessity of rotation is pointed out to us by nature ; for 
all perennial herbaceous plants have a tendency to extend their 
circumference, and to rot and decay at their centre, where 
others of a different kind, spring up and succeed them. This 
is particularly exemplified in the strawberry, and all such 
stoloniferous growing plants ; mushrooms are said never to 
rise two successive years on the same spot. The production 
of the phaenomenon, called fairy rings, has been ascribed to the 
power of the peculiar fungus, {Agaricus orcac/e"*,) which forms it, 
of exhausting the soil of the nutriment necessary for the growth 
of the species. The consequence of which is, that the ring 
extends itself annually, as no seeds will grow where their 
parents grew before them ; at the same time, that the interior 
of the circle has been exhausted by succeeding crops ; but in 
those places, where the fungus has died, grass has grown luxu- 
riantly, nourishment being thus left for the support of grass 
and other plants, after the agaricus has exhausted all that was 
destined by nature for it. 

All crops for a few years thrive well on newly turned up 
virgin mould, but in a few years they degenerate and require 
a fresh soil. Land, in the course of years, often ceases to 
produce the most common vegetables, and fields which are well 
laid down with cultivated gi'asses, lose every one of them in a 
few years ; they become, as it were, tired of them, but the 
truth is, that they have exhausted the nourishment proper for 
their respective sorts, and consequently die, and give place 
to others. This fact is frequently experienced by botanists 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



61 



to their regret, for a plant is often found in abundance for 
years, in one field or wood, and in course of time wholly dis- 
appears. 

A change of crops is founded on an acknowledged fact, that 
each sort of plant draws a nourishment peculiar to itself. On 
this principle, after a piece of ground has nourished one crop, 
another of a different description may succeed. Nothing can 
relieve the soil more than a rotation of crops judiciously ar- 
ranged, according to which plants of different habits and con- 
stitutions succeed each other. To reduce this to practice, we 
will suppose a quarter of sea-kale or asparagus, the roots of 
which are large, and have penetrated to a considerable depth, 
and which have remained in the ground for several years ; and 
further, that they have exhausted the soil, in which they grew, 
of those parts which constituted their principal food, and in 
consequence, that they have ceased to thrive; then instead 
of re-planting the same piece of ground with young plants of the 
same kinds, let them be entirely cleared away, and the ground 
dug, and cropped with peas, beans, or any of the leguminous 
kinds, whose roots do not penetrate to any great depth, and 
they will derive sufficient nourishment, either different to the 
former kind, or such as the root of the preceding crop was too 
deep to absorb. In like manner, let the new crop of sea-kale, 
or asparagus, succeed some crop of a light description, such 
as any of the common annual culinary vegetables. It is a rule, 
from which only extraordinary circumstances can warrant a 
departure, never to plant a new set of perennial stock on 
the ground from which has just been removed a plantation of 
the same or a similar species, which has worn itself out. On 
the conti'ary, crops which strike deep should be succeeded by 
such as pierce but a little way into the ground; and crops 
which have occupied the ground for any length of time should 
be succeeded by such as are either biennial, or indeed annual. 

From the general richness of garden-ground, and much ma- 
nure being constantly employed in the raising of garden-crops, 
much less attention has perhaps been paid to the courses of 
cropping in the garden, than in the field. It is, however, 
equally necessary in one case as in the other, and the same 
principles are applicable to both. 



62 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



A variety of circumstances, however, conspire to prevent its 
being so effectually accomplished in the garden as in the farm ; 
such as the smallness of the portions of ground generally 
allotted to this use ; the vast number of articles which are to be 
grown, and their great similarity and relation to each other. 
The following classification may be considered the most proper : 

Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and savoys ; 
Common beans, French beans, and peas ; 
Can'ots, beets, and parsnips ; 

Turnips, early potatoes, onions, leeks, eschalots, &c. ; 
Celery, endive, lettuce, &c. &c. 

It is found in practice that celery constitutes an excellent pre- 
paration for asparagus, onions, and cauliflowers. 

Turnips or potatoes arc a good preparation for cabbages or 
greens. 

Broccoli or cabbages are a proper preparation for beans or 
peas. 

Cauliflowers prepai*e well for onions, leeks, or turnips. 
Old asparagus land affords a good preparation for potatoes 
or carrots. 

The strawberry, currant, gooseberry, and raspberry, for the 
same. 

Turnips give a suitable preparation for celery or endive ; and 
)eas, when well manured, are a good preparation for spi- 
lach, &c. 

By properly attending to all these diflerent points of manage- 
nent, crops of almost all descriptions may be put into the soil, 
o as to succeed with much greater certainty, and in a much 

more perfect manner, than is usual in the ordinary methods of 

putting them into the ground. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



63 



MONTHLY OPERATIONS 

OF THE 

KITCHEN GARDEN. 



JANUARY. 



CULINARY VEGETABLES AND HERBS. 



SOWING CARROTS. 

When the weather is open and dry, about the beginning or 
middle of the month, prepare a warm spot of ground for a 
crop of early horn carrots : dig the ground deep and break it 
well. 

This, however, is only intended for a limited crop to come 
in for use a little before the general one; therefore only a 
small piece of ground should be provided for this purpose, 
Choose a fine dry day to sow the seed, scattering a few ra- 
dishes amongst it, and rake it in as soon as sown. 

The Alteringham carrot is the best sort cultivated for general 
use, and is, for an early crop, preferable to the early horn, but is 
less generally known. Where there is the convenience of 
frames, and glasses to spare, a slight hot-bed may be now put 
up for carrots, and would be fit to remove in March, after 
bringing forward a crop of this esteemed vegetable. In light 
sandy soils, carrots sown now, or even in November, will do 
very well ; but in heavy, clayey, wet soils, little good can be ex- 
pected. In such a case, it will be necessary to make up a 
bed of light mould, for the purpose of getting up such crops 
with any degree of success. 



64 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



SOWING PEAS. 

Peas may now be sown on an early border, or other warm 
situation, if the weather be open, and the ground pretty dry. 
The true early frame, nimble taylor, and charlton, are the best 
for early sowing. 

The early frame, if the true sort, will fruit a few days sooner 
than the charlton ; but it gi'ows low, and bears scantily. The 
charltons are not only very early, but great bearers, and ex- 
cellent peas for the table ; and are, therefore, equally fitted 
for the early crop, and forward succession crops, and inferior 
to few for the principal summer crops. The hotspurs are hardy 
and prolific, and make returns nearly as quick as the charl- 
ton, and about a fortnight before the marrowfat. These sorts, 
therefore, are the best for sowings made from the end of 
October till the middle of January, and for late crops raised 
between the middle of June and the beginning of August. 

Early crops sown on a border should be always in a longi- 
tudinal direction ; for if sown across the border, the one end 
of the rows will be fit for use, when the other end is hardly 
in flower ; and when sown longitudinally, one row will be enough 
in narrow borders, which should be placed so far from the wall 
as not to shade the fruit-trees, still near enough to derive pro- 
tection from it ; the remaining part of the border, between the 
peas and the walk, may be cropped with early cauliflower, 
lettuce, salads, &c., which, being low-growing crops, will not 
shade the peas. In borders of the greatest breadth, the lines 
of peas may be sown diagonally, which will admit of their being 
sown at from three to four feet apart, and thus give a gi'eater 
bulk of crop. 

They should be sown in drills, three or three and a half 
feet apart, according to the sort of peas and quality of the 
ground, and three inches deep. Allow plenty of seed, as they 
will be subject to accidents at this season. Cover with the 
hoe or rake, but do not tread them in, as that would bind the 
gTound too much at this season. The ground for peas, unless 
very poor, should not be dunged, being apt to encourage 



Jan,] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 65 

the growtti of too much straw, and, consequently, a less num- 
ber of pods. Peas, as well as many other crops, are much 
improved by being transplanted from the bed in which the 
seed has been sown to another piece of ground, where tliey 
are to come to maturity. For this purpose, they are often 
raised in pots or boxes in forcing-houses, and gradually hard- 
ened to stand in the open borders, first by removing them 
from the forcing-house to a frame protected with mats, and 
then, according to the state of the weather, removed to the 
bottom of a wall, or pales, or other sheltered situation, pro- 
tected by branches of spruce, or other trees ; and finally 
transplanted, where they are to remain. The operation of 
transplanting is by no means tedious, and will repay the trouble 
by the fi'uit coming much earlier, and being much more pro- 
lific; or they may be sown in boxes or pots in October or 
November, and removed to sheltered places, as circumstances 
may direct, and finally planted out in rows in February or 
March, ( For transplanting Peas, see March.) 

For the gardens of cottagers and artizans, we would recom- 
mend the charlton and nimble taylor for their first crop, and 
the blue Prussian and dwarf marrowfat for their principal 
crops. In wet cold soils, peas at this season should be sown 
upon the surface of the ground, a small ridge of mould being 
drawn over them, which will prevent them from rotting ; and 
the rays of heat will, consequently, penetrate better to them 
upon an elevated surface than upon a level one. 

The crops sown in October and November, and such as are 
above the ground, should be protected in severe weather with 
the pea-glass case, which is a triangular frame of any con- 




venient ler.gth, the sides being at right angles, and each ten of 
twelve inches broad. The front is glazed with small pieces of 
glass to transmit light, and the back is composed of a board of 
the above breadth ; the third side or bottom is open. Upon 

Iv 



66 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

the top it will be convenient to have a handle, for the purpose of 
removing it, as circumstances may require. Glass cases of this 
sort ought to be in every garden, and will be extremely useful 
for protecting all sorts of crops, and can be procured at a very 
trifling expense. Some use a frame similar to the above, made 
by nailing together two boards lengthways at right angles. 
This is very useful for protecting early crops, but is not so 
good as the other, as it excludes the light; nevertheless, it 
may be used with propriety for covering the crops at night. 
Early crops of peas will be forwarded by rearing a bank of 
mould on the north side of each row, of twelve or fifteen inches 
in height, the rays of heat will reflect on the crop, if the bank 
be not placed at too great a distance from the row. We have 
found when the crops of peas have been sown longitudinally 
along the border, that hurdles, or Dutch mats, placed upright 
along the north side have greatly sheltered them, and often, 
when the crops are sown across the border, much benefit has 
been derived from hurdles placed on each side of the row, 
about twelve inches apart at bottom, and fixed together at the 
top. This has protected them from the frosts, at the same time 
that it has not shaded them too much. Cottagers, whose little 
gardens are often placed in favorable circumstances, might, by 
strict attention to the cultivation of early beans, peas, and 
potatoes, derive a considerable profit by having them as early 
as possible, and in almost every situation find a ready market 
for them. 

PLANTING BEANS. 

About the beginning of this month, if the weather be open, 
let some ground be made ready for a general crop of broad 
beans. The particular state of the weather, and the sort of 
soil, are always to be considered, for nothing is gained, but, 
on the contrary, much is lost by sowing or planting, when the 
ground is not in a proper state for the reception either of the 
seeds or roots, and it is needless almost to observe, that the 
ground cannot be too dry at this season. 

For the larger sorts, let the rows be three feet apart from 
each other, and plant the beans two or three inches deep, or 



^a?l,] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 67 

SOW them in drills of the same depth, and about four or five 
inches apart in the rows. The smaller sorts may be only two 
feet apart, and two or three inches in the rows. 

The mazagan is the hardiest and best flavoured of the smaU 
and early sorts, and is best calculated for the earliest crops. 
It is said that seeds imported from Mazagan, a Portuguese 
settlement on the coast of Africa, where this species is indi- 
genous, afford plants that are more early and more fruitful, 
than those, which spring from seeds which have been saved at 
home. The Lisbon is next, in point of earliness and fruitful- 
ness ; some, indeed, consider it as merely the mazagan ripened 
in Portugal. The dwarf-fan or cluster-bean is like-wise an 
early variety ; it rises only six or eight inches high ; the 
branches spread out like a fan, and the pods are produced in 
small clusters. The Sandwich-bean has been long noted for 
its fruitfulness. The toker and the broad Spanish are, like- 
wise, great bearers. Of all the large kinds, the Windsor is 
preferred for the table. Of this species, there are several sub- 
varieties, such as the broad Windsor, Taylor's Windsor, and 
the Kentish Windsor. The long-podded bean is a great bearer, 
and is very much cultivated ; there are several varieties of it, 
such as the early, the large, and the sword long pod. If the 
weather at this time be open, any of the above sorts may be 
planted. In cold situations, beans may be now planted on 
warm south borders ; but in early situations, they may be 
planted in the open quarters of the garden. For the gardens 
of cottagers and artizans, we would recommend the mazagan 
and dwarf cluster, as occupying little room, or they may be 
planted between the cabbage-plants, which are now in the 
• ^ourse of planting, or which have been planted the preceding 
autumn. Three beans may be sown betw^een every two cab- 
bages in the same line. If sown on an early border, sow in 
longitudinal rows, and not across it, for reasons given in the 
preceding article. Crops sown this month will, in most cases, 
be as forw^ard in fruit, as those sown in November. If the 
ground be in good heart, it need not be dunged for this crop. 
Beans thrive best as a full crop in strong land, but of course, 
will be earlier in light soil. Be careful to entrap mice, which 
at this season are apt to commit depredations upon this crop. 



08 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan.' 



The crops sown in October or November should now have the 
ground carefully stirred about them, in dry weather. If the 
weather be very severe, cover occasionally with the pea hand* 
glass recommended in the preceding article; but if that be 
not the case, they will be better without it. 

PLANTING GARLIC AND ROCAMBOLE. 

GarHc may still be planted, but November is the most 
seasonable month for that purpose. In planting garlic, divide 
the roots into parts. It will grow in any ordinary garden- 
ground, but best in light rich soil. A small quantity will be 
sufficient for most families. 

Rocambole may now also be planted, in every respect as 
garlic ; but if the soil be wet and heavy, it will be better to 
defer them both till next month 

SOWING PARSLEY. 

Parsley may be sown about the latter end of the month, 
in rows, as an edging to an alley, or walk. It will thrive in 
any ordinary soil, or situation ; let the drills be half an inch 
deep, and if sown in an open space, let them be twelve or 
fifteen inches asunder. The curled sort is the best, and less 
likely to be mistaken for Hemlock {Conium macculattim), which 
bears some resemblance to the common plain sort, and is a 
deadly poison ; many lamentable instances are recorded of the 
fatal effects of people using hemlock by mistaking it for parsley. 
This seed remains longer in the gi'ound than that of any other 
culinary vegetable, before the process of vegetation com- 
mences. With the knowledge of this fact, the gardener should 
take it into his calculation at the time of sowing his crops, for 
without we know, with some degree of certainty, the length oi 
time that will elapse from the sowing or planting, until the 
a'op be fit to gather, we shall be apt to run wide of the 
mark, in providing a regular supply, or answering the demand 
of a particular season. To the young gardener, we cannot 
sufficiently urge the necessity of his keeping a regular journal, 
or day-book, not only of every sort of seed sown or root 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



69 



planted, but also of every operation began or finished con- 
nected with his profession. By a careful attention to this rule, 
he will soon become acquainted with the nature, duration, and 
use of every cultivated vegetable. Nor let him deem this 
trouble too great, for he will not be aware of the importance 
of such a journal, until he takes the charge of a garden on his 
own account ; and then, and not till then, will he find, that 
he is not so perfect, as he imagines himself to be. The utility 
of such journals has been acknowledged by the most eminent 
men in the profession, particularly when accompanied by notes 
made in their juvenile years. 

HAMBURG PARSLEY. 

The roots of Hamburg parsley are used in soups, and may 
be sown in drills a foot apart, about the latter end of the 
month. As the roots penetrate to a considerable depth, the 
ground should be either trenched or deeply dug, in order to 
obtain the roots of a considerable size. This root is not in 
very great demand in families, therefore a small quantity should 
only be sown. 

PLANTING ESCHALOTS. 

Eschalots may be planted about the middle or end of the 
month, if they have not been planted in November, which is 
the best season for that operation. They require good rich 
light soil, and an open situation. Choose a piece of ground 
which has been dunged for the preceding crop, as they are apt 
to canker, and be infested with maggots, if planted in fresh 
dung. They may be planted in rows one foot apart, and the 
roots nine inches distant in the lines. If necessary to manure 
the ground, we have found the dung of pigeons or poultry the 
best, and least liable to breed grubs. Autumnal planting is, 
however, the best preventive. 

SOWING SriNACH. 

A little round spinach seed may be now sown on a small 
piece of ground, to be gathered soon in spring, as a substitute 



70 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENKR. 



[Jan. 



for the autumnal-sown crops. If the weather be favorable, 
sow a little at the beginning, and also at the end of the month. 
Spinach may be sown in drills between the crops of early peas, 
beans, or such like crops. 

PLANTING OUT CABBAGE-PLANTS. 

When the weather is open, lay out some gi'ound for cab- 
bage-plants : let some rotten dung be thrown on the ground, 
which should be well buried in, one spade deep, and properly 
mixed with the earth in the bottom of the trenches. 

About the latter part of the month, if the weather be mild, 
and the plants strong, they may be removed, observing to 
plant them about three feet asunder every way, for the larger 
growing sorts ; those of less size may be planted much thicker. 

The sugar-loaf and early York cabbage, are the best to 
plant at this season ; but any of the larger sorts may also be 
planted out at the same time. 

Fill up the places of the plants that have died in the former 
plantations, or which have been destroyed by the weather or 
vermin. 

On the same gi'ound, where cabbages are planted in the 
spring, a thin crop of round-leaved spinach may be sown, 
which will be fit to gather in April, or the beginning of May. 
In this case, the seed must be sown broad-cast, but thinly, and 
raked in, choosing a dry day for the operation. 

TRANSPLANT CABBAGES, &C. FOR SEED. 

Transplant cabbages and savoys, &c. for seed: this work 
should be done generally in November or December; but 
where it was omitted, it may still be done in the beginning of 
this month. 

The saving of culinary seeds is net the province of those, 
who have the direction of the gardens of the nobility and gen- 
try, but to a very limited extent. It forms an extensive branch 
of the interest of the commercial gardener and seed-grower. 
The growing of seeds within the limits of an ordinary garden 
is, with few exceptions, very unprofitable j but where the gar- 



Jan,"] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 71 

dener is in possession of any new, improved, rare, or valuable 
vegetable, it is of the utmost importance to save the seed, not 
only for his own future supply, but for the purpose of dis- 
tributing it amongst his friends. Many seeds become spurious, 
in consequence of their flowers being impregnated by the 
fertilizing pollen of other plants, nearly allied to them, and 
none more so than the brassica family. The seed-growers in 
many countries are so well convinced of this circumstance, 
that a particular individual grows only one sort of seed ; whilst 
another grows a different sort, at a distance of several miles. 
Bees, the force of winds, and other causes, all tend to this 
hebridizing of many families, particularly of cruciferous plants. 
In the same garden, they cannot possibly be preserved genuine, 
or free fi'om contamination, if more than one sort of a genus 
be cultivated for seed. Peas and beans are less liable to this 
objection, but the produce which they yield will not be repaid 
by the ground, which they occupy ; and in all cases, unless 
for particular purposes, the trifling expense of their purchase 
from the fair dealer will be more than expended in their pro- 
duction. Seeds sown on the same ground for a series of crops, 
degenerate, and ultimately become unfit for use. 

For the purpose of saving seed, let some of the largest and 
best full-grown cabbages, &c. be taken up in a mild dry day, 
and divested of the large outer leaves. If they appear wet, 
place them with their heads downward a day or two, in order 
to drain off any moisture before they are planted, which will 
prevent their rotting ; or, in default of full cabbages, use cab- 
bage-stalks, furnished with good full heads of strong sprouts, 
as they will answer the same purpose, both in regard to the 
goodness of the seed and its produce. 

Let a di*y open compartment, exposed to the full sun and 
free air, be chosen for planting them, and the readiest method 
is to plant them in trenches, as the ground is dug : the plants 
should be allowed to stand two or three feet distant from each 
other. 

Dig the ground a full spade deep, and keep the trenches 
clear and wide. When the digging is advanced two feet from 
the end, then with the spade cut the edge of the trench even 
on the side that is dug, and inclining rather perpendicularly 



72 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



to the bottom ; then set the cabbages in the trench, in a similar 
position, close to the ground which has been dug, with the 
bottom of their heads a little within the surface : and having 
planted one row, proceed again with the digging, laying the 
ground against their stalks and roots, and round the bottom 
of each head, continuing with the digging till advanced two 
or three feet from the row of plants ; then prepare the trench 
as before, and so proceed till the whole be planted. They 
will shoot up into flower-stalks, and will ripen their seed in 
the following August. 

CAULIFLOWERS. 

Examine the frames in which young cauliflower plants have 
stood the winter, and of those that are withered, or damaged, 
let such leaves be picked off, allowing no weeds to grow 
among them. If the surface of the ground can conveniently 
be moved a little, it will be of great use to the plants. 

In mild weather, let the plants have plenty of free air every 
day, by tilting the glasses, or by taking them entirely off, 
when the weather will admit : keeping them close down every 
night, and never opening them in frosty weather. 

In very sharp weather, cover the glasses every night, and, 
if necessary, in the day-time, with mats, straw, or fern ; also 
lay some litter round the edges of the fi*ame, which will be of 
great service in preventing the frost from penetrating at the 
sides. 

Cauliflowers under bell or hand-glasses should also have air 
every fine and mild day, by tilting the glasses on the warmest 
side ; in severe weather, keep them close ; in hard fi*osts, lay 
some long litter round each glass, which will prove of great 
shelter to the plants : but in mild fine weather, the glasses 
may be taken off every day, for a few hours ; but they must 
be kept closely shut every night. 

Look carefully once a week or oftener, if mild weather, over 
the cauliflower plants, as slugs will destroy many of them, the 
best way is to pick them carefully off with the hand. In 
severe weather, mice and rats will be apt to destroy them ; 
recourse must then be had to poison and traps. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



73 



Cauliflower plants pricked into pots, stand the winter well, 
as by that means they may be removed from one place to 
another, as circumstances may require ; and, being turned out 
with balls, when planted, where they are to remain, will greatly 
promote their future growth. 

The following method of obtaining a crop of early cauli- 
flower, a week or ten days sooner than those treated in the 
usual way, is recommended by an anonymous correspondent 
of the Gardeners' Magazine. 

From a seed-bed which has been sown two or three days 
after rather than before the customary period, select a score 
or tw^o of healthy plants ; pot them singly into the smallest- 
sized garden-pots, in rich loamy compost ; water and plunge 
them in a cold frame, shading for a short time, till they have 
taken root. Afterwards give air daily, drawing on the lights 
at night, and defending from severe frost with a mat or two ; 
water frequently with tepid manured water, and keep clear 
from decayed leaves and weeds. Examine the state of the roots 
from time to time, and, as they become in the least degree 
matted, immediately shift into forty-eight-sized pots, with the 
before-mentioned compost, and replace them carefully in the 
same frame, attending to them as before. When the roots 
have nearly filled these last pots, shift into thirty-twos, and 
in due time, they will ultimately require twenty-fours, or if 
they have grown rapidly, even eighteens. After being firmly 
established in these, they may be removed into a vinery, peach, 
or other forcing-house, there to remain till the end of March 
or beginning of April, when they may be turned out into the 
open air, between the asparagus beds, or any other warm and 
sheltered spot. They will require to be put in pretty deep, 
and protected by hand-glasses, or at least by boughs of trees, 
that they may not suffer from the sudden transition of weather 
or inclement skies. It is hardly necessary to add, that the whole 
success of this mode of culture depends entirely on the plants 
receiving no check in any stage of their grovv^th, either from 
want of timely re-potting, water, air, or sufficient protection 
from frost. While in the house, if not supplied with water in 
pans, they are very liable to button, and thereby wholly de- 
feat the end in view. 

1. 



74 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan 



CAPE-BROCCOLI. 

Cape Broccoli, managed exactly according to the direct- 
ions given for cauliflower, will come into use rather before 
that vegetable, and afford a variety' for the table, at a season 
when vegetables are much in request. This method will pro- 
long the season of the broccoli tribe during the greatest part 
of the year. 

BROCCOLI. 

If the crops of broccoli have been properly moulded up, 
according to the directions given in November, they can still 
be further protected from the effects of frost, by laying some 
bean-haulm, or other litter on the gi'ound, amongst their 
stems, and then sticking the whole plot full of old pea-stakes, 
or other branches, in imitation of a natural coppice. The 
shade afforded by this simple process will greatly counteract 
the effects of sunshine succeeding severe frosts, which at this 
season, and in February particularly, are so hurtful to all 
culinary vegetables. 

ARTICHOKES. 

Artichokes, if not earthed up, or covered as directed in 
November, should not be neglected any longer, except the 
severity of the frost prevents the landing up ; in which case, 
as these plants are liable to suffer by rigorous frosts, it is ad- 
visable to give some temporary protection, first clearing away 
the decayed and large old leaves, then applying a thick cover- 
ing of long, dry, strawy dung, or mulchy litter, closely about 
each plant ; but if open weather, it would be most expedient 
to earth them up; observing, preparatory to this operation, 
to cut away all the large and decayed old leaves nearest to the 
gTound, then to dig between, and earth up the plants, as in 
November and December. 

After they are earthed up, if the frost should prove very 
severe, it will be proper to lay light dry mulch or long litter 
over the rows : if the plants be of the true globe sort, too great 



THE CULINARY GARDEN, 



75 



care cannot be taken to preserve them ; for sometimes a severe 
winter makes great havoc among them ; and, in spring, young 
sets to recruit the plantations are often very scarce. 

EARTH UP CELERY. 

Take the advantage of a dry day before the setting in of 
frost, to earth up celery that requires it. But this had better 
be deferred, if the plants be not quite dry, for if earthed up, 
when wet, they become cankered, and many will consequently 
be unfit for use. The earthing up of this crop, if properly 
done at previously stated intervals, and never allowing them 
to shoot too far without mould, will render any further earthing 
up (that is, for full grown crops) unnecessary, as they will 
blanch when taken into the shed, or cellar, and buried among 
sand to within a few inches of their whole length. But for 
successional crops, let the earth be well broken, and laid up 
to the plants lightly, that they may not be crushed down nor 
bruised, raising the earth very near to the top of the plants ; 
for if severe frost sets in, it would destroy, or at least greatly 
damage such parts as are above ground, and would occasion a 
great part of the interior to decay or rot downward. 

As these plants are required for use every day, if the ground 
be fi'ozen hard, they cannot be easily taken up : therefore, at 
the approach of severe weather, either cover some of the rows 
with dry long litter, which will prevent the ground from being 
frozen, and will also protect the plants ; or, a certain number 
may be taken up in a dry day, for the service of the family, 
carried into a sheltered place, and there laid in dry earth, or 
sand till they be wanted for use. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Mushroom-beds should be carefully attended to at this 
season. They should have sufficient covering to defend them 
effectually from the frost, rain, or snow ; and such covering 
should not be less than twelve inches thick ; should heavy rain 
or snow have penetrated quite through the covering, it must 



76 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



be removed immediately, or the spawn will be in danger of 
perishing. Replace it with a good covering of clean and dry 
wheaten or other straw ; and in order to defend the bed more 
effectually from wet and cold, it would be advisable to spread 
some large garden-mats or canvas cloths over the sti'aw, which 
will greatly preserve the beds. The cheapest and most ef- 
fectual covering for mushroom-beds is Dutch reed-mats, which 
are capable of throwing off the rain more effectually than any 
other material of equal price. Their lightness, and the facility 
with which they are rolled up, give them a decided advantage, 
independently of their durability, which is much greater than 
that of garden-mats or straw, and much less troublesome. 
They can be procured from Holland very cheap, and are to be 
had of J\Ir. M'Kay, of the Clapton nurseries, who imports 
them annually from that country. The Dutch gardeners make 
use of them for their general covering; and for the purpose of 
covering fi'ames, pits, or low houses, they are far superior to 
any other in use. 

Mushroom-beds may now be made : they will afford a full 
crop in spring and beginning of summer, though probably not 
so successful as the autumnal-made beds. See Septeinber^ 
for the method of making and spawning the beds, &c. 

SEA-KALE. 

For the general management of sea-kale, see November, 
The practice there recommended is equally applicable to the 
present month. 

ONIONS. 

In light soils, the months of August, January, or the be- 
ginning of February, are the proper seasons for sowing onions, 
with the view of obtaining a plentiful crop ; but if the soil be 
heavy, March, or early in April, is to be prefeiTed. If the 
ground be not in a dry state, onions should not be sown this 
month; nevertheless, the opportunity should not be lost, 
whenever the ground ^ill admit of it. 



Jan.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



77 



LETTUCE. 

If the weather be mild and dry towards the middle or the 
latter end of the month, lettuce may be sown. A rich light 
soil, and an early warm spot are to be chosen. The brown 
Dutch, hardy green, white cos, and green cos, are the kinds 
most proper for this sowing, and for the pm-pose of procuring 
plants for transplanting in March. Let the seed be sown rather 
thickly ; let it be lightly covered, and raked in smoothly and 
neatly : the seeds must not be trodden nor beaten in. 

It will be necessary, in order to ensure a supply of spring 
lettuce, to sow a small quantity of the above sorts on a slight 
hot-bed towards the end of the month, and when sufficiently 
stout, should be hardened by exposing them to the air by de- 
grees, until they be sti'ong enough to stand unprotected: a 
box with three lights, if properly managed, will afford a sup- 
ply that will be sufficient for an ordinary family. It is not ad- 
visable to sow any thing along with them, as it would tend to 
draw them up too slender. 

Care of the various Sorts of Lettuces sown in Aulvmn. 

If the lettuce-plants be in frames, or under hoop-arches 
defended with mats, let them enjoy the open air, whenever the 
weather is mild and dry. 

But in very wet weather, and when sharp cutting winds 
prevail, keep the glasses or mats over them, observing, how- 
ever, to raise them two or three inches in mild days, to admit 
air to the plants ; for if they be kept too close, they will be 
drawn up weak, and attain to little perfection ; let the glasses, 
however, be closely shut every cold night. In severe frosty 
weather, keep them close night and day, and cover the glasses 
with mats, or straw, &c. Where any cos-lettuces are pricked 
out in a south border, closely under the wall, it would be 
advisable in hard frost, to cover them also ; pick off all decayed 
leaves when any appear ; keep the plants clear from weeds ; 
destroy slugs ; and in mild weather stir the sm'face of the 
earth between, which will much invigorate the plants. 



78 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



SOWING SMALL SALADING. 

Cresses and mustard may now be sown on some sheltered 
dry border at the bottom of a wall or pales. But where there 
is the convenience of a common garden-frame, it will be better 
to sow either under it or hand-glasses. 

The most certain and least troublesome method to keep up 
a supply of small salading at this season, is to sow the seed in 
flat boxes, or pans, in decomposed or rotten tan, or any other 
light vegetable matter, and place them either in the cucumber 
pits or frames, or in the hot-houses over the flues, or in any 
other place not too much shaded, and unoccupied with other 
plants ; attending to sow every second or third day, according 
to the consumption. The same mould will produce a number 
of crops without being renewed. 

MINT. 

At this season mint is in demand for salads and sauce, &c. ; 
let a few pots be placed in any of the forcing-houses now at 
work. 

ASPARAGUS. 

For forcing of, see Forcing Garden. 

FRENCH BEANS. 

For forcing of, see Forcing Garden, 

RADISHES. 

About the beginning, or any time this month, when the 
weather is open and mild, sow some short-topped radishes to 
come in as an early crop on a warm border, sloping towards 
the sun, and under a wall or other fence, and towards the 
middle or latter end of the month sow a crop of salmon ra- 
dishes to succeed the short-topped. 

Never mix the seed of both sorts, but let each sort be sown 
separately ; for the short-topped will come into use sooner by 



Jan.} 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



79 



a week or ten days than the salmon radish, even if both be 
sown at the same time ; besides, the latter kind runs more to 
leaf than the former. 

The best method is, to sow a little of the short-topped kind 
at least twice this month, in the beginning, and middle ; and 
sow some more about the latter end likewise, on the same 
situation. 

A little carrot-seed may be mixed and sown with the radish- 
seed, for if the radishes should fail, the carrots may still suc- 
ceed; and, if both succeed, a double advantage will be ob- 
tained ; for when the radishes are pulled up, a crop of carrots 
still remains, which will come in at a very early season: or 
instead of the carrots, a small quantity of round-leaved spinach 
and some lettuce may be sown, and when the radishes come 
off, these will come in. This is the common practice of the 
London gardeners, and is generally successful. 

Sow the radish-seeds tolerably thick at this season ; for as 
soon as the plants begin to appear, the weather, if it should 
prove severe, will cut off some, and the birds also being apt to 
attack them greedily, will destroy the rest ; sow the seed evenly 
on the surface, and either rake it in, or cover it with fine earth 
from the alleys, about half an inch deep ; observing, that if 
the weather should set in frosty after the seed be sown, it will 
be of gi'eat advantage to spread some dry long litter over the 
beds two or three inches thick, which will keep out the fi'ost, 
and forward the vegetation of the seed. 

When the plants begin to appear, proper means must be used 
to protect them from the frost and birds, by spreading straw, 
fern, or thin mats over the surface, there to continue till the 
plants have attained a proper size : and if the weather prove 
severe after the plants appear, cover them also occasionally 
with straw, &c., which will be a great protection from the 
injury of the frost ; and if carefully laid on and taken off, it 
will neither break nor hurt them, using a fork in laying it on, 
and a light wooden rake to di'aw it off into the alleys, where it 
must be suffered to lie ready to throw over the plants every 
night, and even in the day, as occasion may require ; the cover- 
ing should be applied every night, when there is any likelihood 
of frost, but must be kept off in fine weather. The covering of 



80 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



IJan. 



early radishes should be continued occasionally, until the rough 
leaves of the plants have appeared. This is the common prac- 
tice of gardeners, who thereby have them ready to draw for 
market in March. 

PLANTING POTATOE-ONIONS. 

If the potatoe-onions have not been planted in December, 
they may be now planted if the weather be open. For which, 
see December, 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

All vacant pieces of ground should at this time be either 
trenched or deeply dug, according to the purposes for which 
they may be intended; but this should not be done, if the 
ground be wet, or if snow be lying on it. The rougher the 
surface can be made, whether the ground be trenched, or dug, 
the better. If dug, it is better to form it into ridges of any 
convenient size, so that the frost may act upon as large a 
surface as possible. The gravel -walks of the culinary garden 
should be dug up, and the gravel left in a neat ridge in the 
middle of the walk, leaving the sides as smooth as possible 
for the convenience of wheeling upon : this will destroy the 
roots of the weeds ; and if the gravel be again laid down in 
March, the walks will have a neat and clean appearance for 
the season. The several heaps of composts, dung, &c., should 
in frosty weather be turned over, and well mixed, to render 
them fit for use when they may be wanted in the spring or 
summer. 

If there be any hedges of any kind, evergreens excepted, 
in the kitchen-garden, or surrounding it, they should be now 
cut, so as to leave as little to do in the succeeding months as 
possible, that can, with propriety, be done in this. Pea-stakes 
should be di'awn to the garden, and made and neatly tied up 
in bundles; it will save time when they may be wanted in 
spring. The outer fences of the garden, if hedges or pales, 
should be examined now, and put in repair, if necessai'y. In 
bad weather, labels of all sorts ought to be made, and numbered 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



81 



and laid up so as to be conveniently at hand when wanted, 
fn the gardens of cottagers, &c., the ground should be turned 
up, and the fences repaired ; any manure that can be collected 
by the road-side, or other places, should be now carefully 
attended to, and if the cottager be unemployed, his time can- 
not be better spent, than in wheeling into his garden any old 
oanks by the sides of roads, or other waste places, where per- 
mission can be obtained. It will much improve his soil if it 
be laid on the ground, and left to pulverize till the following 
month or March, when it should be dug into the ground along 
with any other manure, which he may be able to procure from 
his pigs, or the ashes of his fire. 

Where the nature of the ground requires draining, this is 
the season to have it done ; if that very necessary process has 
been neglected in the formation of the garden, no time should 
be lost ; and in making the drains, it may be observed, that the 
nearer they are to the surface, the better, in order that they may 
be filled with stones or other materials. A regular plan of all 
drains should be kept in the gardener's room, and all altera- 
tions or additions carefully and accurately inserted. This will 
prevent confusion at any time, that it may be deemed necessary 
to examine or repair them. In bad weather, the garden-im- 
plements should be examined, and such as require it, put in 
proper repair, and where any are wanting, let them be sought 
after, and replaced. However trifling this may appear, it will 
save much time and expense, at the time when they are wanted 
for use. 

We would here recommend, as a rule adopted by ourselves 
during the whole course of our practice, to give an inventory of 
all seeds, tools, &c., connected with the culinary garden, into the 
hands of the kitchen-garden foreman, or under-gardener, and 
that he give to each of his men the proper tools for the par- 
ticular employment allotted to him, and to make every man 
responsible for them. Each gardener should have a full set of 
tools ; he should consider them his property, while he is in the 
employment, and when one is broken or worn out, by reporting 
it to his foreman, he must be supplied with another. 

A tool-house is an appendage attached to almost every gar- 
den, fi-om the nobleman's to the tradesman's villa : but it is, 

M 



82 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Ja/K 

generally speaking, a name only, and more often filled with 
useless lumber, than implements of horticulture. Nothing 
shows the want of regularity and system, and consequently 
bad management, more than to see a spade lying in one place, 
a rake in another, and a wheelbarrow in a third. We would 
recommend that every operative be compelled, on quitting liis 
work, to carry such of his tools, as he may have been using 
into the tool-house, where they should be properly cleaned, 
and either placed upright or hung upon nails, according to 
their respective kinds; and this house should be regularly 
locked by the foreman, and opened by him in the morning. A 
system of regularity of this sort will prevent altercation, and 
in a short time will cease to be unpleasant to the men ; they 
will perform it as mechanically, as they do most of their other 
duties. At this season, the store-house should be examined ; 
all bulbs, onions, and roots carefully looked over, and those 
in a state of decay removed to prevent contamination. 
Every attention should be paid to such things as are liable 
to be injured by frost, in order that they may be protected 
in time, for if deferred too long, an irreparable loss may 
be the consequence. Where there is much wheeling to do, 
this is the proper season to perform it, as during fi-ost, the men 
will do more at this work, than they can accomplish, when the 
walks and ground are soft. Leaves should be collected in the 
woods for the purpose of undergoing fermentation, either for 
accelerating crops or fruits ; or if not wanted for such pur- 
poses, they should be gathered in heaps to rot into vegetable 
mould, which will always be useful in the kitchen-garden, and 
in the other gardens it is actually indispensable. 



Feb.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



83 



FEBRUARY. 



SOWING PEAS. 

A full crop ot charltons may be sown about the beginning, 
and of marrowfats and other larger sorts towards the end of 
the month, in the open quarters of the garden. It frequently 
happens that the fruit of a sowing made the beginning of this 
month, is not a week later than that of a crop sown in No- 
vember, and often surpasses all that have stood the winter in 
forward returns, as well as in quantity. For small families, 
tradespeople, and cottagers, the middle of February is the 
best time for sowing to obtain an early profitable crop ; and, 
in many situations, the ingenious gardener is unable to bi'ing 
peas to tab'e sooner by any means which he can adopt in the 
open air, than fi'om the crop sown the beginning of February. 
From the middle of this month, make successive sowings 
every three weeks during the months of March, April, and 
May ; and twice in each of the months of June, July, and 
August ; reducing the quantity each time from the end of June 
till the middle of August. The crops of the later sowings 
will depend on the state of the weather during the following 
autumn, and in general, they are small and scanty. For the 
early and dwarf crops sown in the beginning of the month, 
from three to four feet will be plenty between the rows, and 
three inches deep. If the ground be wet, do not tread the 
seeds in ; but if perfectly dry, a slight treading will prevent 
them from being displaced in the operation of covering. Sow 
peas of sorts in pots or flat boxes, according to the plan 
recommended for beans; if for extensive crops, sow on a 
slight hot-bed. This has been practised by Mr. Bishop, an 
intelligent and experienced gardener, and is the most rational 
plan of transplanting peas ever practiced. 

PLANTING POTATOES. 

Potatoes may be planted about the middle, or towards the 
latter end of this month, if the weather be mild. 



84 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER, 



[Feb. 



These roots are propagated by planting them, either whole 
or in pieces. The better practice is to procure tolerably large 
roots, and to cut each into two, three, or more pieces, ob- 
serving that every piece be furnished with one or two buds, or 
eyes. 

They are to be set in rows, a foot and a half or two feet 
asunder, a foot apart from each other in the row, and about 
five or six inches in the gi'ound. 

Potatoes may be planted progressively as the earth is dug or 
ploughed, by placing them in the trenches or furrows, allow- 
ing them the distance above-mentioned ; or they may be planted 
with a dibble, after the ground is dug ; but for the particular 
manner of planting these roots, see the Ctdinary Garden for 
April. 

TRANSPLANTING CABBAGES. 

The early sugar-loaf cabbage, and other cabbage-plants, 
should be transplanted this month, where they are intended to 
remain. 

Where the plants are pretty strong, they may, in mild open 
weather, be planted out the beginning of the month ; but if 
lliey be weakly, or much hurt by the frost, they should not be 
planted out before the end of this month, or the beginning of 
the next. 

Choose a piece of good ground for these plants, in an open 
oituation, and let some rotten dung be dug in. Set the plants 
in rows, two feet and a half asunder, and allow the same space 
between the rows. 

SOWING CABBAGES. 

Sow cabbages about the middle or latter end of the month, 
for summer and autumn use. These will be fit to cut in July, 
August, and September, &c. 

But if the winter has destroyed many of the plants, which 
were sown the preceding August, it will be proper to sow 
some of the early seed as soon in this month as the weather 
will permit ; and if a few be forwarded by sowing them in a 



Feb.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



85 



slight hot-bed, it will be a great advantage. For the earliest 
crops of cabbages, allot some of the small early dwarf, early 
dwarf York, East Ham, and sugar-loaf, for cabbaging in April, 
May, and J une : secondly, raise more considerable quantities 
of the middle-sized kinds, particularly the large York, and 
large sugar-loaf, or the Battersea, Penton, Imperial, Antwerp, 
Russian, &c. for general summer crops; choose the larger 
latter sorts, for succession during the summer and autumn. 
The large hollow sugar-loaf, oblong hollow, long-sided hol- 
low, and large round winter (white) are excellent for full cab- 
baging in August, September, and October, till Christmas : 
any of the middle-sized varieties may be sown for latter suc- 
cession crops in summer and autumn, to cut when young. 
The large round winter cabbage, great drum, Scotch, and 
American kinds, are more adapted for field-culture, to feed 
cattle in winter, &c. 

Sow also some red cabbages for next winter's supply. 

Cabbages and savoys for seed may be planted this month, if 
not done before. Take up the plants in a dry day, clear off 
all the large leaves, and plant them two feet asunder each 
way, according to the method explained last month, placing 
them so deep, that no part but the head may appear above 
gi'ound. 

SOWING SAVOYS. 

Savoy seed may be sown, for the first crop, about the middle 
or latter end of this month. Those savoys which are now 
sown will be ready in September, and they will be finely cab- 
baged by October, and continue in good perfection all No- 
vember and December, &c. 

EARTHING UP CABBAGES. 

Attention must now be paid to the cabbages, which were 
planted out in the October of the preceding year ; if the wea- 
ther be dry, the ground should be well stirred about their 
roots with a hoe, drawing up at the same time some mould 
about their stems. This will invigorate the plants, and tend 
to promote their growth. 



86 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



MANAGEMENT OF CAULIFLOWERS, 

Cauliflower-plants in frames should have plenty of air every 
mild day, by entirely removing the glasses. 

Towards the end of the month transplant some of the strong- 
est plants into the place, where they are intended to remain. 
Plant them in a rich spot of ground, allowing them thirty 
inches, or a yard distant each way. It will be necessary to 
choose a sheltered warm spot for this crop, and also to shelter 
them occasionally. 

Cauliflowers under hand or bell-glasses, should also be 
thinned out, where there is a superfluity ; that is, if there be 
more than four plants under each glass, all above that number 
should be removed. Observe to draw up the weakest, and let 
four of the strongest remain under each glass, and raise some 
earth up round their stems at the same time. The plants 
which are taken up should be transplanted to another shelter- 
ed spot of ground, allowing them sufficient room to come to 
perfection. 

In removing cauliflowers, it is common with those gardeners, 
who are obliged to make the most of their ground, to sow, on 
the same spot, a crop of spinach and radishes, which turns out 
to good account, without in the least injuring the growth of 
the cauliflower-plants ; for by the time they begin to advance 
towards perfection, the radishes and spinach will be all taken 
up for use. 

Sow cauliflower-seed the first week of this month, to raise 
some plants to succeed the early crop ; but in order to bring 
the plants up early, and to forward them twelve days or a 
fortnight in their growth, it will be well to sow them in a 
moderate hot-bed. 

Make the bed about twenty inches or two feet thick of dung, 
on which put a frame ; then lay four or five inches in depth of 
rich earth over the bed. 

Sow the seed on the surface, cover it with light rich earth, 
about a quarter of an inch thick, and then set the glass on. 

As soon as the plants appear, let them have air every day, 
by tilting the glass a considerable height ; and in mild weather, 
the lights may be taken quite off" in the day-time, for they 



Feb.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



87 



must not be kept too close, as that would cause them ':o grow 
up weak. 

But where there is not the convenience of a frame for the 
aforementioned bed, cover it at nights, and in bad weather, 
with mats, placing hoops, long sticks, or poles, arch-ways 
across, and over these lay the mats, or Dutch reed-mats, as 
already recommended. 

Sprinkle them with water occasionally, if moderate showers 
of rain do not happen about this time, but not so as to create 
too much damp. 

PLANTING BEANS. 

Any of the beans recommended last month may be now 
sown, and the sooner in the month the better. In this, and 
in all other cases connected with planting and sowing, the 
exact time must be regulated by the state of the weather, and 
the nature of the soil. In light sandy soils, sowing and plant- 
ing should be done as early as possible ; and in wet strong 
soils, the seeds are better in the seed-room than in the ground, 
when it is not in a proper state to receive them. A few of the 
early sorts may be planted in the beginning of the month, and 
tne larger growing sorts towards the end. As the plantings 
done ihis month will be for principal summer crops, the quan- 
tity planted should be in proportion to the demand. The long 
pod and Winvlsor sorts are to be preferred for the last crops 
planted this month. Plant in lines three feet asunder, and 
four or five inches apart in the line. For the gardens of cot- 
tagers and artizans, the middle-sized sorts, such as the long- 
pods, broad Spanish, and white-blossomed beans, are to be 
preferred, as they are great bearers, and occupy less room than 
some of the other sorts in cultivation. About the beginning 
of this month, plant beans in pots or flat boxes, and place 
tliem in any of the hot-houses at work, or in a hot-bed frame. 
When they appear above the surface, remove them to a colder 
place, so as to harden them by degrees to fit them for trans- 
plantation next month. Beans are so much' improved by being 
transplanted, that the practice ought to be more generally 
adopted tlian it is. In sowing beans for transplanting, observe 



88 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb, 



to place small pieces of turf, three or four inches broad anrl 
six or eif^ht inches long, under the mould in which they are 
sown ; for by this means, they will transplant with better balls, 
and the roots will be less liable to be injured, 

EARTHING UP BEANS. 

Take advantage of a dry day, to stir up the surface with 
a rake among beans that are now above ground ; and if suffi- 
ciently above ground, draw a little earth to their stems. 

SOWING CELERY. 

About the middle or end of the month, prepare a small bed 
of light rich earth in a warm sheltered situation, in which to 
sow some celery-seed for an early crop. 

Break the mould very fine, as the seed is small, and rake 
the surface even ; sow the seed, but not too thick, and cover 
it with light rich mould, about a quarter of an inch deep. 

Those who wish to have the plants come in early, should 
sow the seed in a slight hot-bed, or in flat boxes in any of 
the forcing-houses that may be at work, to be afterwards hard- 
ened by degrees, by removing them from one colder department 
into another, until they be fit to stand in the open air, when 
they may be pricked out into a warm border, or upon a slight 
hot-bed, to remain until finally planted out. 

The plants raised firom this sowing come into use about the 
middle of July. 

There should not be many of these early sown plants pricked 
out, but only just a sufficiency to come in before the general 
crop ; for they will soon pipe and run to seed. 

SOWING CARROTS. 

About the middle or end of the month, carrot may be sovm 
for an early crop, on a light border or other sheltered spot ; 
but the beginning of April is soon enough to sow the prin- 
cipal crop. The seed may either be sown broad-cast, or in 
drills, but the latter is to be preferred. If broad-cast, strew 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



89 



as equally as possible, cover lightly, and rake all smooth. For 
the more regular division and separation of this seed, let it be 
well rubbed between the hands, mixing it up with dry mould, 
or sharp sand. Crops of such seeds as carrot, and some others, 
will at this early season be much benefited, if the drills in 
which they are to be sown, be half filled with light vegetable 
mould, on which the seed must be sprinkled, and then covered 
with the same sort of mould. In strong wet soils, this should 
be particularly attended to, as seeds will vegetate quicker, and 
oecome established much sooner, than if sown in the natural 
ground. If in diills, let them be shallow ; half an inch in 
depth is enough ; and ten or twelve inches apart. Cover with 
the hoe or rake, and dress the surface fine. See April. 

The Alteringham is the fittest for this sowing, a little early 
horn may also be sown, but the other is equally early, and a 
much better carrot. 

PLANTING GARLIC AND ROCAMBOLE. 

If these were not planted in J anuary, the present is a good 
time. Dig the ground deep, and break it fine, if of a tena- 
cious quality. Neither of these roots is much used, so that a 
small piece of ground will aftbrd an ample supply for an ordi- 
nary family. 

PREPARE GROUND FOR SOWING ONIONS. 

Take advantage of a dry day, provided the ground be not 
naturally wet, nor rendered so by continued rain, to point 
over the ground, which has been manured and rough dug in 
autumn, which by this time will be well pulverized by the con- 
tinued action of fi:ost and rains upon it. Point it over six 
inches deep, and break it well with the spade. If no ground 
have been purposely prepared in the above manner, make 
choice of a rich piece, which has been properly manured for 
the preceding crop ; that which has been occupied by celery, 
will answer the purpose well ; dig it slightly, and break the 
clods as finely as possible. If there should not be a piece 
of ground in sufficient good heart to spare, make choice of 

N 



90 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



another ; and if it be deemed necessary to manure it, prefer a 
compost of decomposed stable-dung, cow-dung, and earth, for 
any compost is preferable to simple dung, as being less likely 
to breed maggots. 

The latter end of this month may be considered as the pro- 
per time to sow a full crop of onions, if the land be of a mid- 
dling texture ; but if it be wet and heavy, we would recom- 
mend to defer the sowing till the subsequent month, or the 
first week in April. Any of the following sorts may be sown 
at this time, the Strasburg, Deptford, Spanish, Portugal, the 
silver-skinned, red-skinned, &c. ; the two former, however, 
which are considered by some to be the same species, produce 
the most abundant crops, and are allowed to be the best 
keepers. 

Sow any of the above-mentioned kinds in four feet beds, 
thinly, and cover to the thickness of a quarter of an inch ; or 
in shallow drills, nine or ten inches apart, also thinly. The 
drill system is to be preferred, both for neatness and utility, as 
by this method, the crop can be hoed, which will destroy the 
weeds, and by occasionally stirring the surface, greatly pro- 
mote the growth of the plants, particularly when the bulbs are 
swelling. A little lettuce or celery-seed may be thinly sown 
along with them, but this must be done sparingly. 

Rake all smooth, but in neither case must the seed be trodden 
in, unless the ground be very dry indeed. Onions intended 
for pickling should be sown in poor ground, or under the shade 
of trees, to keep them small. The Strasburg is generally 
sown for principal crops, and next, the Deptford ; the small 
silver-skinned and two-bladed are the best for pickling. The 
Portugal and Spanish yield large crops for early use, and 
should, in cold situations, be sown in March. The Strasburg 
is hardy, and stands the winter, if sown in September, or the 
latter end of August. 

WINTER CROP OF ONIONS. 

The crop of winter onions, or that which has been sown in 
the end of August or beginning of September, should now be 
gone over about the end of the month, and cleared from weeds; 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



91 



if needful, they should be regularly thinned. Let the surface 
be well stirred up among the plants. If green onions be in 
demand for the use of the kitchen, they need not be much 
thinned at this time, but rather delay the final thinning till 
April or May. {See those months.) 

SOWING PARSLEY. 

Parsley may again be sown for successional crops; prefer 
always the curled sort, as being more luxuriant and handsome 
for garnishing, and is not likely to be mistaken for those poi- 
sonous plants, fool's parsley, Aethusa Cynapium, and common 
hemlock, Conium maculatum; both are common weeds grow- 
ing in gardens, and have often been mistaken for parsley. 
The leaves of fool's parsley may be easily distinguished fi*om 
the genuine parsley, being of a darker green, of a different 
shape, and instead of the smell peculiar to parsley, have, when 
bruised, a disagreeable odor. When the flower-stem of the 
fool's parsley appears, the plant is at once distinguished, by 
what is vulgarly called its beard, consisting of three long 
pendant leaflets of the involucrum, 

HAMBURG PARSLEY. 

Hamburg parsley may be sown in drills one foot asunder, 
and two inches deep. It will thrive well in any ordinary gar- 
den soil, which is of sufficient depth, and not over rich. 

BEET. 

A small quantity of red beet may be sown to come in early 
for salads, and a little of the green and white sorts for their 
leaves in soups and stews. But defer the principal crops of 
beet till April ; if sown sooner it is apt to run to seed, or at 
least to become hard and stringy. 

CHIVES. 

Chives are used by many, both in the kitchen and in salads, 
and are a substitute for spring-onions. They will grow in 



92 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



almost any soil, and are easily propagated by sets. They may 
be planted in rows, eight or nine inches asunder, and four or 
five in the row. Any time in this month, or in March, will 
be proper for planting. 

SOWING SPINACH. 

At the beginning of this month, spinach of the round sort 
may be sown on an open spot, and also for successional crops at 
the end of the month. The winter crops must now be hoed and 
cleared, and although entirely free from weeds, yet the earth 
should be stirred about the plants. If these crops have been 
sown broad-cast, they should be thinned out to eight or nine 
inches square, and if in drills, to three or four inches between 
the plants. Spinach, managed according to this system, will, 
if in rich land, produce a fine large leaf, and a much more 
abundant crop than if lefi; unthinned, which is too frequently 
the case. Fine weather must be chosen for this purpose, and 
the surface must be well loosened among the plants, parti- 
cularly if the soil be of a stiff' nature, and the ground have 
been much affected by heavy rains, or f^odden upon during 
winter. 

Spinach requires a richer soil than almost any other culinary 
vegetable to bring it to perfection, as it has to yield fi-equent 
gatherings or cuttings, and therefore requires a repeated de- 
velopment of parts, which cannot be expected without an 
abundance of food. The finest crops of this vegetable may be 
expected from ground glutted with manure, so far as the attain- 
ment of bulk of vegetable matter is concerned. 

LEEKS. 

Leeks should be sown in a bed of rich land, and moderately 
thick, as they must be afterwards transplanted. 

MUSHROOMS, 

Be carefiil that the mushroom-beds be well protected froyn 
heavy rains and frost ; either of which would destroy the spawn. 



Feb.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN, 



93 



The covering of straw should not be less, over every part of 
the bed, than twelve or fifteen inches thick. If the wet have 
at any time penetrated through the covering, let it be removed, 
and fresh dry covering put on. If covered with Dutch reed- 
mats, rain will seldom injure the beds, as they are capable of 
throwing off the water much better than garden-mats. 

PARSNIP. 

Prepare a piece of ground by trenching eighteen inches or 
two feet deep, on which the parsnip-seed is to be sown. The 
parsnip is a native of the chalky downs of Kent and Hamp- 
shire, the roots of which penetrate to a great depth in the 
almost solid chalk. In garden-culture, it will be found to 
attain its greatest perfection in ground rendered sufficiently 
deep by trenching, and manured with chalk or lime. It is 
found in great perfection in cottage-gardens in chalky coun- 
tries, and should be cultivated by cottagers as a wholesome 
and nutritious food. The parsnip is an excellent root, and in 
soils suited to it vrill, under good management, yield a great 
weight of food, either for man or for cattle. It is grown 
to greater perfection in the islands of Guernsey and Jersey 
than any-where else, and is thence often imported into this 
country. 

HORSE-RADISH. 

This plant is propagated by cuttings of the root, either taken 
from the top an inch or two long, or some old roots cut into 
pieces of that length. It is so tenacious of life that almost 
every inch of the root will grow, and when once established in 
a piece of ground, is not easily eradicated. 

To propagate it, procure a number of proper sets, which 
may be either the small off-sets that rise from the bottom or 
sides of the main roots, and of which take cuttings of their 
tops two or three inches long ; or use the tops and crowns of 
the old roots when taken up for use, in cuttings of the above 
length: or in default of a sufficiency of crowns or tops of 
either, divide a number of old roots into cuttings of the above- 
mentioned length, which if furnished, each with two or three 



94 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



buds or eyes, will make tolerable sets • but preference should 
be given to the cuttings of the crowns or tops, if a proper num- 
ber can be procured ; observing that when intended to make a 
fresh plantation, you should, during winter, when the plants are 
taken up for use, reserve all the best off-sets for planting; 
also the crowns of the main roots : but this latter is only prac- 
ticable in private gardens ; for where the large roots are de- 
signed for sale, their tops must not be taken off, which will 
render them imsaleable in the market; therefore the market- 
gardeners always reserve the strongest off-sets arising either 
from the bottom, or emitted from the side of the main root. 

Being thus furnished with a proper number of sets, trench 
the ground to the depth of two feet, and add a slight body of 
manure ; plant the sets in with the spade or large dibble, rake 
the surface smooth, and sow it with spinach, if such should be 
wanted. As horse-radish is a coarse growing vegetable, and 
not always easily kept clear of weeds, in consequence of its 
roots running in all directions, which would be apt to be 
injured by digging or hoeing, it would be adviseable to plant 
it in some part of the slip, or outer parts of the garden, where 
it may be seen as little as possible ; nevertheless, plant it in a 
situation where it will not be under the shade of trees. 

In taking up these roots, it should be done regularly, not 
taking up a stick or root here and there, as we often see done 
in private gardens, but beginning at the first row, and pro- 
ceeding from row to row, as it is wanted. 

THINNING THE CROPS OF WINTER LETTUCE. 

The crops of winter lettuce should now be thinned, and the 
ground between the plants hoed and stirred ; this will greatly 
encourage the growth of the plants. 

SOWING AND PLANTING LETTUCES. 

About the beginning or middle of this r-.onth, if the weather 
be mild, sow several sorts of lettuce-seec on warm borders. 
The white and green cos, and the Silesia and cabbage-lettuce, 
are proper sorts ; also sow some of the imperial and brown 



leo.j 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



95 



Dutch lettuces, or any other sorts; let the seeds be sown 
moderately thick, and rake them in regularly. 

Or, in order to have a few lettuces forwarder for transplant- 
ing, sow lettuce-seeds early in the month in a frame, and 
cover them occasionally with glasses or mats, at night and 
in sharp weather ; and when the plants are advanced about two 
inches in growth, they are to be transplanted in the open 
ground. 

Lettuces which have stood the winter, closely planted in 
warm borders or in frames, should, about the end of the 
inonth, if quite mild weather, be thinned out where they stand 
too close, leaving them a foot distant each way : the plants 
which are drawn out should be planted in an open spot of rich 
gi-ound, a foot asunder ; and a little water given as soon as 
planted. 

We have experienced much success in planting lettuce at the 
bottom of a north wall, or in any such situation, where the sun 
seldom shone upon them till late in the afternoon. It is the 
sudden transition from cold to heat, or of sunshine upon vege- 
tables after severe frosts, that our early crops are destroyed in 
this uncertain climate. It ought to be our study to dispose 
of and shelter them, as much as possible, from the effects 
of such transitions. It is also of importance, particularly in 
autumn-planting, to throw up triangular ridges, two or three 
feet high, of convenient lengths, from east to west, and to 
plant both sides of the ridge with lettuce-plants. In this case, 
if the plants upon the side sloping towards the sun should be 
destroyed, those on the opposite side will have a chance to 
stand. Should both stand, this method will prolong their 
season, as when the crop on the south side is exhausted, that 
on the opposite will be fit for use. 



PLANTING ESCHALOTS. 

If eschalots were not planted in January, now is the propei 
season for that purpose, ample directions for which will be 
found in the preceding month. 



96 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



RADISHES. 

Dig a warm border, the beginning of this month, for some 
short-topped radish-seed, to succeed those sown last month. 
Dig another piece at the same time, and sow it with sahnon- 
radish-seed ; they will succeed the short-tops. About a fort- 
night or three weeks after, let some more of both sorts be 
sown in an open situation, in larger portions for the mai/i 
crop, that there may be a regular and plentiful supply in the 
proper season ; also sow a little of the red and white turnip- 
radish for variety. 

PLANTING LIQUORICE. 

Prepare some ground to plant liquorice where required ; the 
ground should have two or three spades' depth of good soil, 
and also trenched the same depth, that the root, the only 
useful part, may run very deep into the earth. 

Procure sets of the small horizontal roots, which run near 
the surface of the gi'ound ; cut them into lengths of six inches, 
and plant them by dibble, in rows a yard asunder, by half 
that distance in the row, placing them wholly within the earth ; 
as soon as planted, sow a thin crop of onions on the same 
ground the first year. Keep them clean from weeds all sum- 
mer ; and when the onions come off, hoe the ground well ; and 
in winter slightly dig the ground between the rows. 

They must be permitted to have three years' growth, cutting 
down the decayed stems every October or November ; and in 
the third or fourth year, the main roots will be of full length 
and size ; then dig them up in winter, beginning at one end of 
the ground, and opening a trench quite to the bottom of the 
first row of roots ; so continue row and row, taking out all the 
roots as you proceed to the bottom. 

WORK TO BE DONE THIS MONTH IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

The process of trenching and digging should be continued, 
if not finished last month ; and every thing there recommended 
should be done as soon as possible, as the following months 
are amongst the busiest of the year with the gardener. 



Mar.'] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 91 

MARCH. 



PLANTING BEANS. 

Plant beans af any kind, for all sorts succeed well from this 
time of planting ; now plant full supplies of the best sorts for 
principal crops. 

This is still a proper time to plant the Windsor, Toker, and 
Sandwich, and the long-podded bean, which is a great bearer. 
The smaller kinds may also be planted any time this month, 
being plentiful bearers ; among which, the white-blossom kind 
is a peculiarly fine eating bean. 

Some of the most approved of the above sorts put into the 
ground every fortnight, will afford a regular supply during 
the season. 

Plant the large kind of beans in rows a yard asunder, and 
the lesser kinds, thirty inches between the rows. But, if it 
be intended to plant savoys or cabbage-plants between them, 
the rows, for all the sorts, should be a yard and a half apart. 

Transplant the beans sown in pots or boxes, as previously 
recommended. Take them carefully out of the boxes, or pots, 
separate them so as not to injure the roots, draw drills four 
inches deep, place the plants six inches apart in the rows, and 
from two to three feet between the lines ; fill in the mould 
round the stems, and give a little water, if the weather be dry, 
to settle the mould about the roots. Shade or protect them 
for a few days with branches. The beans recommended to be 
sown thick in the borders in autumn, if they have stood the 
winter, should now be transplanted, as has been formerly 
directed. 

SOWING PEAS. 

Sow marrowfat peas once a fortnight or three weeks at far- 
thest, particularly some dwarf green imperial marrowfats, which 
are a most excellent eating pea. 

Or, in sowing peas, it is a good rule, when the plants ot 
a former sowing are coming up, to sow another crop of the 

o 



98 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



same sort, which will succeed the others in regular order ol 
bearing. 

Any of the larger or smaller kinds mentioned in the former 
months, may be sown for general crops. Draw drills at the 
distance mentioned in February, sow them regularly, and cover 
them with earth about an inch and a half deep. 

All the sorts should now be sown in open situations, not 
under low spreading trees. 

Transplant the peas which were sown last month on hot- 
beds, or in flat boxes ; they will, if attention has been paid to 
them, be hardy enough to transplant, if the weather be tolera- 
bly mild. In doing so, make shallow drills with a hoe or 
spade ; then remove the peas carefully in patches, which will 
not be a difficult task ; the pieces of turf which were recom- 
mended to be placed under them, will readily separate, and 
each piece should be carefully placed in the drill prepared for 
them, with the peas growing upon it. Cover the peas to within 
an inch of their whole height with light mould. If the wea- 
ther be dry, give a little water to settle the mould about them ; 
if frosty, protect them for a few nights with branches, or any 
other slight covering. 

EARTHING AND STICKING PEAS. 

Draw earth to the stems of such peas as have attained some 
height; it will strengthen the plants greatly, and encourage 
their growth. 

Stick peas as the different crops advance in growth, six or 
eight inches high. 

TRANSPLANTING AND SOWING CAULIFLOWERS. 

Remove the cauliflower-plants, which have been in frames, 
or on warm borders, during the winter, if not done in the 
former month. 

Let these be planted in a good spot of ground, which should 
be well manured with some good rotten dung, and then neatly 
dug or trenched, one spade deep ; bury the dung in a regular 
manner in the bottom of the trench. Plant the cauliflowers in 



Mar.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



99 



rows thirty inches apart, allowing them the same space be- 
tween plant and plant. 

The spot, where this crop of cauliflowers is planted, may be 
sown with spinach and radishes, as was intimated last month. 

Raise some earth to the stems of the plants, which are under 
hand or bell-glasses ; it will strengthen them and assist their 
growth. 

The glasses may still be kept over the plants, but must be 
continually raised, at least a hand's breadth high ; or in fine 
days, the glasses may be taken off, and let the plants have the 
benefit of warm showers of rain. 

Where cauliflower-plants have been raised fi'om seed sown 
the last month, they should now be removed into a bed 
of good earth, in a warm situation; but where a moderate 
hot-bed can be obtained, it will be most advisable to prick 
them into it, which will forward them greatly. Make the bed 
about sixteen or eighteen inches high, and set a frame on it, 
or arch it over with hoops ; lay on half a foot of rich earth, 
prick out the plants in it, two or three inches apart, and give 
them a little water. Set the glasses or other covers on every 
night, but remove them every mild day. 

By placing out the plants on a moderate hot-bed, it will 
oring them forward to be fit to transplant the middle of April 
into the place where they are to come to maturity, and they 
will produce their heads in July. 

Cauliflower-seed may be sown early in this month, if it were 
not done in February ; observing to sow it in a moderate hot- 
bed, as was then directed ; it will bring the plants up soon, 
and assist them greatly. 

The seeds may be sown in a bed of good earth, in a warm 
situation on an open spot of ground ; they will grow freely, but 
the plants will not be so early by ten or twelve days, as they 
would be, if the seed were sown on a slight hot-bed. 

The plants from this sowing will come in for use in August. 

SOWING BROCCOLI. 

It will be early enough towards the middle or the end ot 
the month to sow broccoli, for if sown earlier, the plants are 



100 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



apt to start or button. The early white, the tall purple, the 
green or the dwarf sulphur-colored kinds, are the best to sow ; 
the seed must be sprinkled thinly, on a bed of light earth, and 
in a warm open situation ; it must be covered to about a quarter 
of an inch in depth, and raked in fine. 

TRANSPLANTING AND SOWING CABBAGES. 

Transplant cabbage-plants of all kinds, into the places, where 
they are to remain to cabbage. It may be done the beginning, 
or middle of this month, but if the plants be strong, the sooner 
it is now done, the better. Let them be planted in good ground, 
well manured, at two feet and a half distant. 

This distance is meant for such plants, as are to remain to 
grow to their full size ; but such of the forward kinds as are to 
be cut young, may be planted closer ; and eighteen or twenty 
inches distant will be sufficient. 

Sow the seeds of cabbages of any kind, the beginning or 
middle of this month, particularly the early kinds for suc- 
cessional young summer-cabbages, and large sorts for autumn 
and winter use. The large sugar-loaf is a fine kind to sow 
now, also the Yorkshire, Battersea, and imperial, for midsum- 
mer and general autumn cabbages. A quantity of the large, 
hollow, long- sided, and large round cabbages, may now be 
sown for late autumn and general winter use : let the whole 
be sown in an open spot of good ground, each sort apart. 
In sowing them, let each sort be correctly labeled, which 
should be a rule with every seed that is sown. 

The plants produced from this sowing will, particularly the 
early sorts, be well cabbaged in August and September, espe- 
cially the sugar-loaf, Battersea, and Yorkshire kinds, and will 
remain good all the winter. 

Red cabbage-seed should also be sown towards the latter 
end of this month, to raise some plants for winter use; they 
will be well cabbaged in September, or about Michaelmas, 
and keep good till the spring. 

In sowing the several sorts of cabbage-seed, it will be most 
proper to sow them in open ground, at a distance from trees, 
fences, or buildings ; for when sown in such close situations, 



Mar.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



101 



as is very often practised, the plants are drawn up weak and 
slender, and are liable to be destroyed by vermin. 

SALSAFY, SCORZONERA, AND SKIRRET. 

Salsafy, Scorzonera, and Skirret, are all raised from seed, 
and are used in the kitchen, in autumn and winter. They 
may be sown about the end of the month, for if sown at an 
earlier period, they often run to seed, and are thereby ren- 
dered wholly useless. 

SOWING SAVOYS. 

Savoy-seed for a prmcipal crop, to serve from about Michael- 
mas to Christmas, should be sown about the middle, or towards 
the latter end of the month, in an open situation. 

But if it be desired to have savoys well cabbaged in the end 
of August, or any time in September, they should be sown in 
February, or at least the fii*st week of this month. Savoys 
answer best on a light rich soil; poor or exhausted ground 
should be well manured. Allot an open compartment, that 
the seedlings and advancing plants may grow stocky, and not 
draw up weak and long-shanked, as they are liable to do in 
close situations or narrow borders under walls. Gardeners 
distinguish two chief sorts, green savoy and yellow savoy, and 
of each of which there are, round-heading, oblong-round head- 
ing, sugar-loaf heading, &c. The round-heading is the most 
permanent. In these varieties, there is no material difference, 
though the green has certainly the best appearance at table, 
and always proves the hardier, in standing long rigorous sea- 
sons : both sorts are, in general, hardy enough to stand our 
ordinary winters. 

The seeds of this vegetable are possessed of the propeity 
of retaining their vegetating properties for six or eight years, 
provided that they were sufficiently ripe, when gathered ; and 
we are informed by Bastien, that the seed-growers of Auber- 
villiers assert, from their own experience, that the seeds ob- 
tained from the middle flower-€tem, will produce plants sooner 
fit fur use, than those which have originated from seeds ga- 



[02 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



thered from the lateral flower-stems. This curious circum- 
stance has not altogether escaped the notice of some ol our 
olden gardeners. 

PLANTING POTATOES, 

About the middle or latter end of this month, it will be 
proper to plant potatoes on a border, which is light and early. 
The ground need not be manured for this crop, if it be in 
a tolerably good condition ; for as the produce is seldom allowed 
to arrive at its full maturity, the soil will consequently not be 
exhausted, which is the case only when the potatoes are allowed 
to remain in the ground until they be fully ripe. In those 
cases, however, where it is intended that the crops shall stand 
until they have come to maturity, it will be necessary to give 
the ground a good di'essing of manure. 

The ash-leaved and early dwarf, but particularly the former, 
are the best kinds to be planted at this season, as they require 
less room than any other kinds. They may be planted six 
or eight in a line, and about fifteen inches between each line. 
If the ground be in any degree wet or damp, they may be 
planted in drills about three inches deep; but if it be light 
and dry, they may be dibbled in. It must be observed, how- 
ever, that this method is recommended only to save time, as 
the drill is to be preferred to the dibble for all kinds of seeds 
and roots. 

Potatoes may be planted with propriety in ground wnich 
has been under the same crop the preceding year. This is, 
however, with a few other vegetables, an exception to the 
general rule of changing their situation annually. In Corn- 
wall, the same ground that has borne a crop of early potatoes 
is frequently planted with a late or winter crop, and both are 
found to succeed to perfection. The same practice is not un- 
common in Ireland, and many parts of Lancashire. In Corn- 
wall, they always procure their seed-potatoes, either every year 
or every alternate year, fi'om a granite soil, knowing from 
experience, ^ that the gi'eat increase in the produce, justifies 
the additional trouble and expense. 



Mar,\ 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



103 



SOWING BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Brussels sprouts may also be sown any time in the month, 
and the same system adopted as directed for broccoli. 

TURNIPS. 

Sow turnips for a first early full crop about the middle or 
towards the latter end of this month, in an open situation, 
and where the ground is light. 

Turnips may be sown at the beginning of the month, if 
required; but those sown so early are apt to run to seed 
before they bulb of any considerable size in the root. 

If a little turnip-seed be sown the first week of this month, 
or the last week in February, on a shght hot-bed, the plants 
will be more likely to bulb before they show a disposition to 
run to seed, and will be an acceptable addition to the spring 
vegetables. 

The proper sorts to sow now are principally the early Dutch 
white and the early stone, especially for the first and second 
crops. 

PLANTING ARTICHOKES. 

Where a plantation of artichokes is intended, let them be 
planted as soon in the month as you can procure good plants ; 
otherwise defer it till April, observing that those suckers slipped 
off' in spring-dressing the old plants, are the proper sets for 
this purpose. 

There are two sorts in general cultivation, the large globe 
artichoke and the French or green oval ; the former is greatly 
to be preferred for the general supply, the heads being larger, 
and the eatable parts more thick and fleshy. 

They should be planted in an open situation, and in good 
ground ; also let a quantity of rotten dung be spread over the 
piece, and dig it in. Having provided some well-rooted 
suckers, trim any straggling parts of the top and root ; then 
plant them with a dibble, in rows a yard and a half distant, 
and two feet, or a yard, distant in the row. Give them directly 



lO* THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mat, 

some water. This plantation, if kept clear from weeds, and 
now and then watered in dry weather, will yield good arti- 
chokes the following autumn, but will produce more abund- 
antly next year in J une, July, and August. 

A small crop of lettuce, radishes, or spinach, may be sown 
the first year, between the rows of the artichokes. 

A plantation of artichokes will produce good heads five 
or six years, and often longer ; but it must be observed, that 
if required to have a succession of this vegetable for four or 
five months in the summer, a small plantation should be made 
every spring ; for the old stocks, which have been planted a 
5^ear or two, produce heads in June, July, and August; and 
those planted now produce heads the same year, in August, 
September, and October. 

SPRING-DRESSING ARTICHOKES. 

Make a general dressing of artichokes from the beginning to 
the middle of this month. 

Where the earth has been trenched up, and laid over these 
plants, to defend them fi'om frost, let it now be levelled down, 
particularly if the plants have begun to shoot tolerably strong, 
otherwise defer it till next month ; observing as you proceed 
in levelling down, to dig and loosen all the ground about the 
plants ; at the same time examine the number of shoots or 
suckers springing from each stool or root, choosing two oj 
three of the strongest on every stool to remain, and all above 
that number to be taken off close with the hand. 

In performing this work, open the earth deep enough about 
each stock or root, that you may more readily slip off the 
superabundant shoots clean from the place whence they spring, 
taking care, as above, to leave at least two or three good shoots, 
but never more than three, upon each root or stock, closing 
the earth in again round the root, and also about the young 
plants, laying the ground close about them with the hand. 

The shoots which are slipped off, may be used to make fresh 
plantations, where required; for artichokes are propagated 
by planting the young shoots, and by no other method; and 
this is the most proper season for that purpose. - 



Mar.} 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



105 



CELERY. 

Celery, for a full crop, may be sown about the latter end 
of the month, on a bed of light earth, in an open situation. 
If the seed be sown in rich vegetable mould and kept rather 
moist, it will thrive the better. Water the bed frequently in 
dry weather. 

The common upright celery, the large hollow upright, the 
solid stalked upright, and the large red stalked upright, are 
the sorts most cultivated : the three former are preferred for 
general crops. The latter variety is rather coarse for salads, 
but being very hardy stands the winter, and is well adapted 
for the use of the kitchen, either for soups or stews. After the 
plants have attained three or four inches in height, they should 
be transplanted on a bed of solid dung well rotted and beaten 
into a solid mass with a mallet, or the plants should be pricked 
out in a very rich border. 

^ELERIAC. 

Celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery, is mucfi hardier than any 
of the other sorts, and will continue longer in spring. It is 
often imported from Hamburg for the London market, and is 
universally cultivated on the continent. The seeds should be 
sown, and transplanted, as has been directed for celery, only 
they should be sown thinner, and a greater supply of water 
given to the plants in all the stages of their growth. 

The following is the method of cultivating this vegetable in 
Denmark, according to the system of Mr. Jens Peter Peter- 
sen, and communicated to the Horticultural Society by W. 
Atkinson, Esq. F. H. S. 

" Celeriac requires a light, moist, and rich soil. It is essen- 
tial that the dung be perfectly decomposed. For summer and 
autumn crops, sow the seed towards the end of February, very 
thinly, on a moderate hot-bed, in good rich mould. When the 
plants appear, they must be inured as much as possible to the 
open air, and thinned so as to stand one inch apart from each 
other, and always kept moist. Transplant about the middle 

t 



ion THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. \ Mar 

of May, or when the plants are four inches high. The roots 
will be fit for use at the end of J uly. For a winter crop, sow 
about the end of March, on a rich warm border ; when about 
an inch high, thin and keep them moist. In June, they will 
be fit for transplanting : this is to be done on flat beds, four 
feet wide ; four drills are di'awn four inches deep, in these the 
plants, after some of the roots and tops of the leaves are cut 
off", are put in at the distance of one foot apart, watered and 
kept so, if the weather be dry. When grown to half their 
size, which will be about the beginning of August, a small 
quantity of the mould round the root of each plant must be 
removed, taking care not to disturb nor expose the main root. 
Cut oflT all the side roots and the large coarse leaves close 
to the plant, levelling the mould to each as you proceed in the 
work. When the whole is completed, the bed must be suffi- 
ciently watered. 

Celeriac may be considered as a bulbous variety of celery, 
and therefore, to be eatable, it requires to be blanched ; for 
which purpose, it must be earthed up to a certain extent, but 
the less, the better." 

PLANTING JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

This month is the proper time for planting Jerusalem arti- 
chokes, and being of a very hardy nature, they will thrive in 
any situation, and even in a soil of an ordinary kind : they are 
not easily eradicated, when once introduced into a garden. The 
Jerusalem artichoke is propagated in the same manner as the 
potato, by planting the root, in rows about a yard asunder, 
and nine or ten inches distant fi'om each other in the row. 
It is very productive, and consequently, a small quantity will 
suffice an ordinary-sized family. Nicol observes, " The roots 
grow in tubers, something in the manner of a yam ; the stalks 
tall and upright. In taste, the roots resemble an artichoke, 
and hence the name. This vegetable, before the introduction of 
that most valuable one, the potato, was held in great esteem ; 
being an excellent winter-root of an agreeable taste.** 



Mar.] 



THE CULINARi!' GARDEN. 



107 



SPRING-DRESSING ASPARAGUS. 

About the middle or latter end of this month, spring-dress 
asparagus-beds, which is done by forking or shghtly digging 
them with a three-prong'd fork. For the purpose of digging 
or forking these beds, be provided with a proper fork, having 
three short prongs, six to eight or nine inches long ; however, 
if such instrument be not at hand, it may be performed with a 
small, short-prong'd common dung-fork. 

In forking the beds, be careful to loosen every part to a 
moderate depth, taking great care not to go too deep to wound 
the crowns of the roots. 

The work of forking is necessary to be done every spring, 
to improve and loosen the ground, and to give free liberty for 
the buds to shoot up ; also to give free access to the sun, air, 
and showers of rain. 

The beds being forked, they must be raked even ; observ- 
ing, if they be not raked immediately after they are forked, 
to defer it no longer than the end of this month, or the first 
week in April, for by that time, the buds will begin to advance 
towards the surface. 

The beds being carefully forked over, a little well-broken 
mould should be scattered over them from the paths between 
the beds, or a top dressing of compost, made half of dung well 
rotted, and the other half of fresh virgin loam, will very much 
improve the strength of the roots. In raking the beds, make 
use of an old rake, the teeth of which are worn short, and 
which will smoothen the surface, without injui'ing the buds. 

PLANTING ASPARAGUS. 

New plantations of asparagus may now be made, if the wea- 
ther be mild, this being the proper season to remove the plants. 

In making these plantations, the chief point to be con- 
sidered is to make choice of a proper soil : choose the best the 
garden affords ; it must not be wet, nor too strong, nor stub- 
born, but such, as is moderately light and pliable, so that it 
will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situa- 



108 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar 



tion that enjoys the full sun. If the ground do not naturally 
possess these qualities, it must be brought as neai* to that state 
as possible, by artificial means. 

Asparagus is often found to prosper in sti'ong land, but it is 
apt to go off in winter. In light sandy, or light loamy soils, 
if well supplied ^vith manure, it succeeds much better, and is 
not liable to perish in winter. Sea-weed, where it can be 
procured, is an excellent manure for asparagus. The ground 
should, if it be intended to have fine crops, and that the beds 
should last for a number of years, be not less than two or 
two and a half feet deep, burying plenty of dung at the bottom, 
as no more can be applied to any depth afterwards. Aspara- 
gus, when found in its natural state, is in poor sandy spots 
by the sea-side, and is of such a diminutive size, that few 
cultivators, without some botanical knowledge, would imagine 
it to be the same plant, which they grow to such a size by force 
of dung and cultivation. The sweetness, size, and tenderness 
of the shoots, which are the only part used, depend entirely on 
the rapidity of their growth, and this is to be effected only by 
the richness of the soil. The commercial gardeners in the 
vicinity of London consider damp gTound so injurious to aspa- 
ragus, that they elevate their asparagus-beds considerably 
above the surface-level of the ground, and the same practice is 
also common in the environs of Paris. In the Memoirs of the 
Caledonian Horticultural Society, the following is given by 
Dr. Macculloch, as the method practised in France, and adopted 
in some parts of Scotland: "A pit, the size of the intended 
plantation, is dug five feet in depth, and the mould which is 
taken from it must be sifted, taking care to reject all stones, 
even as small in size as a filbert-nut. The best parts of the 
mould must then be laid aside, for making up the beds. The 
materials of the bed are then to be laid in the following pro- 
portions and order : six inches of common dunghill manure, 
eight inches of turf, six inches of dung as before, six inches of 
sifled earth, eight inches of turf, six inches of very rotten dung, 
eight inches of the best earth. The last layer of earth must 
then be well mixed with the last of dung. The compartment 
must now be divided into beds five feet wide, by paths con- 
structed of turf, two feet in breadth and one foot in thickness. 



Mar.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



109 



Beds made in this manner," he says, "are found to answer 
well, and last ibr many years." 

In Germany, asparagus-beds are made to last a considerable 
time, by being well trenched and manured at bottom with 
bone, horn, chips of wood, or branches of trees, a foot thick. 
Bones and horn will be a long time in decaying, and will, 
consequently, give out a gradual and lasting food for the roots 
of the plants. The ground intended for new beds should have 
a large supply of rotten or other good dung laid several inches 
thick ; it should then be regularly trenched two or three feet, 
and the dung buried equally in each trench as the process 
goes on. 

The ground being made level, divide it into beds four feet 
and a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between bed and bed. 

Four rows of asparagus should be planted in each bed, and 
ten or twelve inches distance to be allowed between plant and 
plant in the row ; letting the outside rows of each bed be nine 
inches from the edge ; or they may be planted only in single 
rows, two feet and a half apart, or in narrow beds containing 
two rows of roots only. By this means, a greater facility will 
be acquired in gathering the crop, without being obliged to 
tread on the beds. 

Let it be observed, that the plants for this plantation consist 
entirely of roots, not more than two years old; some gardeners 
prefer those that are only one year, as they generally take root 
much freer, and succeed every way better than two-year old 
plants. It is of very great importance for ensuring success in the 
planting of asparagus, to lift the roots carefully, and to expose 
them to the air as short a time as possible. While planting, 
therefore, it would be proper to keep the roots in a hamper or 
basket among a little light earth, and covered with a mat. 
No plant feels an injury in the root more keenly than aspa- 
ragus ; the roots are very brittle, and when once broken, do 
not readily shoot again. 

Method of planting them. 

Strain the line parallel with the beds, nine inches from the 
edge : then with a spade cut out a small trench or drill close 
to the line, about six inches deep, making that side next the 
line nearly upright ; and when one trench Is opened, plant that 



110 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



before you open another, placing the plants upright ten or 
twelve inches distant in the row ; or the gi'ound may be di'illed 
for the roots to the depth of four or five inches with the garden 
hoe. This is the most expeditious method, and answers equally 
well. 

These plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the 
trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, so that the 
cro^vn of the plants may stand upright, and two or three inches 
below the surface of the gi'ound : let them be all placed an 
equal depth, spreading their roots somewhat regularly against 
the back of the trench, at the same time drawing a little earth 
up against them with the hand as you place them, in order to 
fix the plants in their due position, till the row be planted : when 
one row is planted, immediately with a rake draw the earth 
into the drill over the plants, and open another drill or trench 
as before directed ; and so on till the whole be planted. When 
they are all planted, let the surface of the beds be raked 
smooth, and clear them from stones. 

At the corner of every bed, let a firm stake be driven into 
the ground, to serve as a mark for the alleys, and one also at 
the end of each row. 

In planting asparagus, it is customary with those gardeners, 
who are obliged to make the most of every spot of ground, 
to sow a thin crop of onions the first year on the new aspa- 
ragus-beds : this should be performed before the beds are 
raked, sowing the seeds, and raking them in ; by this means 
a crop of onions may also be obtained without hurting the 
asparagus, provided the onions be not suflfered to grow just 
about the plants ; but, if circumstances will admit, it will be 
much better net to exhaust the beds with any crops at all. 

The asparagus being planted, the next care is, when the 
plants come up, which will be about the latter end of the suc- 
ceeding month, or the beginning of May, to keep them clean 
fi'om weeds ; which must be well attended to during the sum- 
mer. It will be three years from the time of planting before the 
asparagus plants produce buds large enough to cut for use, in 
any general gathering ; though sometimes in good ground, and 
a remarkably prosperous growth in the plants, which are the 
production of young shoots, a few of the largest may be 
cut the second year after planting: it will be doing greater 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



Ill 



justice to the plants, if none be cut before the second, and only 
a few the third year. A plantation of asparagus, if the beds 
be properly attended to, will continue to produce good buds 
ten, fifteen, and often twenty years ; instances have occurred of 
beds being cut for thirty and forty years. 

In making new plantations, instead of forming the beds 
with plants, the seeds may be sown at once in the beds ; by 
this practice, the plants are not disturbed by being removed, 
and consequently produce more regular crops. The beds may 
be made the same as if they were to be formed with young 
plants, and the seeds dropped in, in lines, covering the seeds 
about an inch deep. 

When the plants are about six inches high, they must be 
thinned, leaving the strongest about nine or ten inches apart. 
During the first season, keep them clear of weeds, as they will 
be very tender, and easily hurt by the weeds. In about three 
years after sowing, a few buds may be cut. The fourth year, 
the buds will be both strong and abundant. 

SOWING PARSLEY. 

Parsley, if not sown last month, may now be sown. Sow 
in drills in the quarters, or for edgings, observing to sow it 
where hares cannot get at it, as they are remarkably partial to 
this vegetable. 

If a large supply be wanted for market, it may be grown in 
continued rows nine inches asunder, or on the general surface, 
to be trodden down and raked in. 

SOWING PARSNEP. 

If parsneps were not sown in February, sow now for a prin- 
cipal crop. This is a nutritious and useful vegetable, and in 
some countries is next in estimation to potatoes. (See Carrots.) 

SOWING SPINACH. 

Sow spinach to succeed that sown last month : the sowings 
should be repeated once a fortnight or three weeks, to have a 
regular supply, for the plants of one sowing in spring and 



112 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Man 



summer will not continue fit for use longer than that time, be- 
fore they will run. Prefer the round-leaved or smooth-seeded 
kind ; that being the most proper sort to sow at this season, 
its leaves being considerably thicker and larger than the prickly- 
seeded. 

This seed may be sown either alone, or with some other 
crops, such as between rows of beans, or on the ground be- 
tween cabbages or cauliflowers ; it should be sown moderately 
thin, and generally in broad-cast, in which method a little 
radish-seed may be sown with it : when the seed is sown, if 
light dry ground, tread it over lightly to settle the surface and 
seed, then rake it regularly ; or it may be occasionally sown 
in broad flat drills, about an inch deep, and a foot broad. 

Let it be observed, that spinach should not, at this season, 
be sown where the ground is much shaded with trees or 
bushes ; for in such situations, the plants would be drawn up 
to seed before they arrive at half their growth. 

Hoe or hand-weed the early crops, thinning the plants at 
the same time, but particularly those sown broad-cast, to five 
or six inches distance ; the thinner they are, the larger they 
will grow. 

The crop of winter spinach, which was sown last autumn, 
will now be advancing for use, and should be kept clear from 
weeds, and the earth between the plants stirred with a hoe. 
In gathering, if they stand close, they should be thinned out 
clean by the roots ; but if they already stand at great dis- 
tances, only crop the large outer leaves as wanted, till they 
begin to run, then cut them up clean to the bottom. 

SOWING HAMBURG PARSLEY. 

At this time, sow Hamburg parsley for a full crop. As this 
is not much used in the majority of families, a small quantity 
will be sufldcient. 

SOWING BEETS. 

For successional crops, sow a little both at the beginning 
and also at the end of the month, if favorable weather. For 
the general crop^ see April, 



Mar.] 



THK CULINARY GARDEN. 



PLANTING CHIVES. 

If chives were not planted last month, let that be now done. 

MUSHROOM-BEDS. 

Continue to protect mushroom-beds from frost and rain, 
either of which would destroy the spawn. And if convenient, 
new beds may also be made, which will produce in succession, 
during the summer and autumn* 

PLANTING HORSE-RADISH. 

Where horse-radish has not been already planted, let that 
be done as soon as possible, as the buds will be beginning to 
spring and might be injured by the operation. 

SOVnNG LEEKS. 

This is a good time to sow leeks for a full crop in strong 
lands, but if they have been forwarded on a slight hot-bed, 
the greater will be their size. On light warm sandy soils, 
they will be yet in good time in the open ground. Sow in 
beds to be afterwards transplanted, or thinly in such beds, 
where they are to remain to come to their full size. 

SOWING KIDNEY-BEANS. 

About the middle of the month, if the ground be dry, and 
the weather settled, sow a crop of kidney-beans : they should 
be planted in a warm sheltered situation, and may be sown 
longitudinally along the border, and when necessary, after they 
come up, use the pea-glass case recommended for early crops 
of peas. 

Kidney-beans, like many other fast-gTowing vegetables, are 
much improved by transplanting. For this purpose, sow in 
the beginning of the month a few in pots or boxes ; bring 
them forward in any of the forcing departments ; tlie peach- 
house is to be pref2rred, or in a slight hot-bed. Harden them 
by degrees ; by the end of March, they will be fit for planting 

Q 



114 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



out in a warm border, or at the bottom of a wall, and will be 
in fruit sooner, and yield a more prolific crop, than those 
planted in the open border in the beginning of the month. 
Make choice of a dry day for planting the crop in the open air, 
and plant on the surface, in strong soils, as recommended for 
peas ; cover three inches, and leave the covering in the form of 
a ridge, so as to throw the rain off, as they are very tender, and 
apt to rot in the ground. For a full crop, see April. 

PLANTING POTATO-ONIONS. 

See December and January. 

SOWING ONIONS. 

Onions require a rich mellow soil, on a dry subsoil, and are 
an exception to the general rule of never cropping the same 
ground successively with the same plant. Some gardeners 
sow onions on the same piece of ground for many years, and 
the market-gardeners at Hexham sow their onions on the 
same gi'ound for twenty or thirty years successively, but an- 
nually manure the soil. After the ground is dug, the manure 
is spread on the surface, in a very rotten state, and the onion- 
seed is sown upon the manure, and covered over with mould 
from the alleys : by this method, they produce fine crops in 
almost all seasons. Indeed, so general is this practice, that it 
would require much reasoning to persuade them to the con- 
trary. Onions must naturally act (to a certain extent) as an 
exhauster of the gi'ound on which they grow, at least of those 
parts of the ground from which they derive their principal 
nourishment ; yet we find the same piece of ground for twenty 
years producing ex-cellent crops. If the ground be prepared 
as advised in February, which is to manure it in autumn, 
and to rough dig it, which is to be done by digging in the 
compost manure, and laying the ground up as rough as pos- 
sible, so as to present as large a portion of surface to the 
action of the fi'ost and rain, as can be done, it becomes to a 
certain degi*ee renewed, as the fibrous parts of onions, which 
are, correctly speaking, their roots, penetrate only a few inches 



Mar.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



115 



deep, and if they partly exhaust the surface of one year, the 
operation of digging deep brings up an entirely new surface for 
the crops of the next. Take advantage of a fine day, when 
the ground is diy, to point over or slightly dig the surface, 
and in doing so, break the clods well with the spade, or rake 
the surface with a large rake, as the operation of digging pro- 
ceeds. Drill the ground an inch deep, and sow the seeds rea- 
sonably thin ; but in this particular, be guided by the quality of 
the seed, which can be ascertained by sowing one hundred, or 
fifty, or twenty seeds in a pot or pan, which may be placed in 
any of the forcing departments to vegetate quickly. Count 
the number of plants which come up ; by this means, the qua- 
lity of the seed can be correctly ascertained, and then sow 
thickly or thinly, according to the result of the experiment 
The drill system is to be preferred. 

One of the most intelligent writers, as a practical gardener, 
in the Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural Society, adopts 
the following method of preparing the ground for his onion 
crops in light soils, and which has been attended with great 
success, both as to the production of good crops and as a pre- 
ventive for the maggot, which in old garden ground, if light, 
is found to be very injurious to these crops : " In the end of 
October," he says, " I dug over the ground, leaving as much 
surface exposed as possible, by what is called winter digging. 
It lay in that state till the end of December, by which time it 
generally happened to be exposed to a severe frost. On a 
frosty day, about the beginning of January, I wheeled on a 
top dressing of cow's dung, and spread it all over the surface. 
I let this lie to have its juices washed into the soil before the 
time of sowing, at which time I raked oiT all the dung that 
would come with the rake, which operation smoothed the sur- 
face of the ground. Then, without digging, I lined off the 
alleys, sowed the seeds, trod them in, covered them with earth 
from the alleys, and raked the beds. From this mode of 
treatment I always had excellent crops of onions. This method 
gives a sort of consistence to old soft soils, such as are often 
to be met with in old gardens on gTavelly or sandy bottoms ; 
and th3 onions generally form their bulbs upon the surface, 
which I take to be their natural position, and wlicre they are 



116 THE PllACTICAL GARDENER. [Mar, 

less liable to the attacks of maggots than when they form their 
bulbs under the surface, which is principally occasioned by 
dunging and digging light soils for onions in the spring." 

Any of the sorts in general cultivation may be chosen, accord- 
ing to the fancy of the sower, or the purpose for which they 
may be intended. The Strasburg, Deptford, and globe, are 
preferred for principal crops; the Portugal and Spanish are 
esteemed for crops which come the soonest into use ; James' 
Keeping, and pale red, for keeping ; the blood red is much 
sown in Scotland and Wales for its strong flavor, and is 
esteemed in the London market for its diuretic qualities ; the 
Lisbon is a good sort for autumn sowing, but the Strasburg 
is generally sown at that time. For the distance between the 
rows, see February. 

PLANTING ONIONS FOR SEED. 

Where it is intended to save the seeds of onions, either for 
sale or private consumption, plant them at this time. Select 
some of the finest bulbs in the autumn, and reserve them for 
this purpose. Plant them in drills three or four inches deep, and 
one ibot apart ; place the onions ten or twelve inches asunder 
in the line, according to their size and sort. For the con- 
venience of clearing them from weeds in -summer, and support- 
ing them when their heads become heavy,' plant them in beds 
of three or four rows each, allowing two feet and a half be- 
tween each bed, for the purpose of getting in among them. 
They have now only to be kept clear of weeds, and supported 
as they advance in growth, and will ripen their seeds in August 
or September. 

SOWING CARROTS. 

Crops of carrots may now be sown in light dry soils ; sow in 
drills ten or twelve inches apart, and cover carefully about half 
an inch deep. The orange and Alteringham are the preferable 
sorts. 

A spot of light ground, in an open situation, should be 
chosen for this crop, for the roots thrive considerably if those 
points be properly attended to. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



117 



The ground should be trenched one good spade deep at 
least, or rather it should be double dug. Observe in digging 
to take but thin spits, and be careful to break all clods, that 
the roots may have full liberty to run down long and straight, 
for if the earth be not well divided nor separated, the roots are 
apt to grow both short and forked. 

The seeds may either be sown broad-cast all over the sur- 
face, or the ground may be previously divided into beds four 
or five feet wide ; in either method, however, sow the seeds 
thinly with an even hand, and rake them in ; but previously to 
raking, observe that, if the ground be quite light and dry, the 
seed may first be trodden in evenly, in doing which, take care 
to tread it lightly and regularly, pretty closely together, then let 
the seed be raked in moderately. By this method, the seed 
will be buried equally in every part, and the plants will also 
come up regularly. 

In sowing these seeds, however, it will be proper to ob- 
serve, that when the ground has a disposition to be wet, or is 
apt to bind, it will be proper, in that case, to divide it into beds 
four or five feet wide, with narrow alleys about a spade wide, 
then sow the seed. The ground, however, must not be trodden, 
but take your station in the alleys, and rake the seed in regu- 
larly, taking particular care not to di'aw the earth in heaps. 

In sowing carrots, as well as most other crops, the drill 
system is to be preferred, as presenting a much neater appear- 
ance, and affording an opportunity of stirring the surface of 
the ground between the rows to a greater depth than can be 
done if sown broad-cast. The advantage of deep hoeing all 
crops cannot be too forcibly impressed on the mind of the 
cultivator, as it has the effects of resisting the droughts of 
summer, as well as greatly encouraging the growth of the 
plants. 

SOWING RADISHES. 

Sow more radish-seed, to raise a supply of radishes to suc- 
ceed those sown in February. 

There should be some seed, both of the salmon and short- 
top, sown at three several times this month ; that io, about the 
beginning, middle, and latter end ; by which means there will 



118 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mar. 

be a regular succession of young radishes for the table. Let 
this seed be sown now in an open compartment, where the 
ground is rich and somewhat moist. 

In sowing these seeds, attend to the method kid down in 
the two former months. 

Thin the crops of early radishes, where the plants stand 
too close, pulling up the worst, and leaving the best plants 
standing at about two or three inches asunder, and clear them 
from weeds. 

In dry seasons, let the early crops of radishes be frequently 
watered, otherwise they will not grow freely, nor will they be 
mild and crisp for eating. 

SOWING INDIAN CRESS, OR NASTURTIUMS. 

Indian cress will grow freely in almost every soil or situa- 
tion, and the flowers of it are used both in salads and in gar- 
nishes. It requires to be staked in the manner of peas, if 
sown in an open spot. On account of its rapid growth, it is 
particularly well adapted as a hedge, or to act as a screen to 
any unpleasant object, independently of which it is, in itself, 
extremely beautiful. It may be sown in drills two inches deep 
any time during this and the two succeeding months. It will 
keep in flower till destroyed by frost. 

SOWING CHERVIL AND CORIANDER. 

Sow these seeds in shallow drills, eight or ten inches apart, 
and cover them about half an inch with mould. Choose a 
sheltered spot. 

These herbs are all to remain where they are sown, and the 
chief culture they require is to be kept clear from weeds, but 
as the plants soon run up to seed, a small portion should be 
sown every month. 

SOWING BASIL, 

For the greater certainty of success, it will be advisable to 
sow basil in pots or pans, in any of the forcing departments, 
or on a slight hot-bed. Sow in rather dry mould, and be 



Mar.\ THE CULINARY GARDEN. 119 

Sparing of water, as it is apt to rot. The plants will be fit for 
transplanting in May. 

SOWING PURSLANE. 

The end of this month is the proper time to sow this salad, 
for if it be sown earlier, it runs the risk of being injured by the 
frost, owing to its great succulency. It may be sown on a 
light early border, in the same manner as lettuce, but much 
thinner. It may also be sown like cresses in drills, on any 
ODen spot, once in three weeks or a month during the summer. 

PLANTING MINT. 

This is now a good season to make new plantations of mint. 

This plant is propagated either by parting the roots, by 
slips of the young spring plants, taken up with root fibres at 
the bottom ; also by cuttings of the young stalks in April and 
May ; but at this season, increasing it by slips, or parting the 
roots, is most generally practiced, the method of which is as 
follows. 

Towards the end of this month, have recourse to such old 
beds of mint as are well stocked with young plants, and thence 
draw up a sufficient number of the best shoots properly rooted, 
observing to draw them up carefully, and with the assistance 
of a knife at times, raise or separate them; by which care, 
every plant will rise with good roots. 

Having provided the plants, let them be planted in rows, 
about six inches apart, and five or six inches asunder in the 
rows ; let them have immediately a tolerable watering, to settle 
the earth close about their roots. 

The method of increasing mint by roots is, to get a number 
of old roots, and let them be parted in a proper manner ; then 
draw drills with a hoe six inches apart ; plant the roots in the 
drills, cover them about an inch thick with earth, and then 
rake the ground. 

But when the above method is to be followed, the roots 
should be procured and planted either in February, or the 
beginning of this month, or in October or November. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Man 



These plants will succeed in almost any soil or situation. 
All the kinds of mint, such as spear-mint, orange-mint, 
pepper-mint, &c. may be increased by the above methods. 

SOWING CAPSICUMS. 

The seed-pods of these plants are much admired for pick- 
ling ; let the seed be sown in a hot-bed, about the middle, or 
towards the end of this month, and when the plants appear, 
let them have a large portion of free air, and water them fre- 
quently. In the middle or latter end of May, they will be fit 
to transplant, which must be into beds of good earth in the 
open ground ; or they may be sown in shallow boxes, pans, or 
pots, and placed either in a cucumber-frame or in any of the 
hot-houses. By sowing a few pots or pans full, a sufficient 
quantity will be reared for an ordinary-sized family. 

SOWING LOVE-APPLES. 

About the middle or latter end of this month sow tomatoes, 
or love-apple seeds : the fruit or apples of these plants are, in 
some families, much used in soups, and also as a pickle. 

The fruit, when ripe, is of a beautiful red or yellow color. 
The plants are tender, and the seed must be sown in a slight 
hot-bed, treating the plants as directed above for capsicums. 
For the further management of them, see Mai/» 

SOWING AND PLANTING VARIOUS KINDS OF POT AND MEDICAL 

HERBS. 

The seeds of dill, fennel, borage, burnet, bugloss, sorrel, 
marigold, orach, clary, and all other herbs of the same kind, 
may be sown any time this month, in a bed or border of com- 
mon earth separately, and well raked in ; most of which may 
remain where they are sown, if the plants be properly thinned ; 
or some, as burnet, sorrel, fennel, clary, marigolds, borage, 
may be planted out in beds a foot asunder, in May, June, and 
July. 



Mar.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



\9J 



Plant rooted slips of balm, burnet, tarragon, tansey, penny- 
royal, feverfew, and camomile. In taking off the slips of these 
plants, preserve some root to each; plant them nine or ten 
inches from each other, in beds of rich earth 

Sow hyssop, thyme, savory, and sweet-marjoram, any time 
this month. These seeds should be sown separately in beds 
of rich light earth, and raked in ; or they may be sown in 
shallow drills, six inches asunder, covering them with fine 
earth a quarter or half an inch deep, or some may be sown in 
a single drill along the edges of borders, &c. where the plants 
will make useful edgings, particularly thyme, savory, or hys- 
sop, as these sorts are perennials ; the sweet-marjoram only 
being annual ; but to forward sweet or knotted marjoram, it is 
most advisable to sow the seed on a slight hot-bed, to trans- 
plant it out, and treat it in the same manner as directed for 
sweet basil. 

These plants may either remain where sown, or may be 
transplanted, for which purpose they will be fit in J une : but 
if the former mode be adopted, they should at the above time 
be thinned to five or six inches distant, and those which are 
drawn out, may be planted in other beds, six inches asunder. 
Those which are sown for edgings need not be much thinned. 

Plant cuttings of sage, hyssop, thyme, and savory, any time 
this month. These should be of the young shoots of last 
year, about four or five inches long, cut them off close to the 
place where they arise; but there are, sometimes, off'-set 
shoots rising from the bottom of the old plants, that are fur- 
nished with roots, which should be particularly chosen. If 
cuttings be preferred, plant them under a hand or bell-glass 
in some light rich mould, and when rooted, transplant them, 
where they are to remain. 

SMALL SALADING. 

Cresses, mustard, radish, rape, &c. should be sown once a 
week in a dry warm border. But where the convenience pre- 
sents itself of forcing-houses or hot-fi-ames, prefer sowing them 
in flat boxes, for the purpose of taking the benefit of such 
convenience. Sow in light vegetable mould, or sandy earth, 

11 



n2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



or in rotten tan. They will do equally well, either covered 
or uncovered. In the latter way, they are less likely to be 
sandy or gritty. Place them in a dry place, as they are apt 
to damp. 

SOWING NASTURTIUMS. 

Same as Indian cress, see p. 118. 

NORMANDY CRESS. 

A crop of this beautiful and useful salad may be sown in a 
border of light earth. The seed must be sown thinly, as it 
grows luxuriantly. 

SOWING LETTUCE. 

Make sowings of the various sorts of lettuce. Sow each 
sort in a bed separately. The varieties are very numerous, but 
the majority of them will succeed equally well at this time, if 
sown on a sheltered border. 

There is a sort not generally known, which we accidentally 
discovered some years ago in Scotland, among a crop of leeks. 
The seeds of the leeks were from Messrs. Peacock, nursery- 
men, Leith Walk, Edinburgh, who on inquiry stated, that the 
same circumstance was observed by another person, who also 
had purchased some of the leek-seed from the same bag. This 
sort Messrs. Peacock called, the New Cape cos. It grows to 
an extraordinary size, but notwithstanding its magnitude, it is 
the tenderest and finest lettuce we have ever seen. It requires 
to be sown in March, and afterwards planted out three feet 
distant, plant from plant, in a rich soil. We have since had 
seeds of the same sort from those very respectable seedsmen, 
and found them to be the finest lettuce, for a principal crop, 
vrith which we are acquainted. For variety, a number of sorts 
may be sown. Sow each sort separately, and if to remain in 
the seed-bed, sow thinly, or transplant a part, and leave a crop 
on the bed, in which they are reared. Transplanted lettuce 
run to seed sooner during summer than those, which have not 
been transplanted. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



123 



PLANTING LETTUCE. 

Any time this month finally thin out the crops of lettuce, 
which have stood the winter, into open borders, at from nine to 
twelve inches apart, leaving a crop on the ground undisturbed. 
Those who wish to save lettuce-seed, may plant such sorts as 
may be wished at this time, giving them from twelve to fifteen 
inches from plant to plant, or more, according to their size 
The crops of lettuce sown upon slight hot-beds will be ready 
by the end of the month to plant out in sheltered places ; 
under favorable circumstances, they will succeed the winter- 
sown crops. 

DANDELION. 

This is an excellent salad, and a good stomachic : it is not 
generally cultivated in gardens. Where it abounds in any 
waste place, cover it at this season with rotten tan, decayed 
leaves, &c. It will soon come up, and be well blanched, in 
which state, it is a great addition to our spring salads. This 
salad will force well all the winter on a slight hot-bed, or in 
any very warm cellar. 

CORN-SALAD, OR LAMb's LETTUCE. 

This is also an addition to our spring salads, not very gene- 
rally cultivated ; where it is desirable, sow some of the seed 
this month on a border of light earth. Continue to sow once 
a month till August. 

AMERICAN CRESS. 

This is often called black American cress and French cress. 
It is an excellent winter and spring salad, and being a native 
of most parts of this country, stands all seasons with little pro- 
tection. If wanted all summer, sow every six weeks from this 
time till August ; for which, see that month. 



124 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



WINTER CRESS. 

The use and culture, the same as the American cress. 

WATER CRESS. 

This well-known and useful salad, is said to have been first 
cultivated in 1808. If plantations be wanted of it, they may 
now be made, or indeed in any spring or autumnal month. 
For full directions, see Ma?/ and June. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 

If the weather be now favorable, that is, dry and mild, the 
various branches of cropping should be attended to with dili- 
gence. No time should be lost in committing to the soil the 
requisite seeds and roots of plants. 

In early light dry soils, it will be an advantage to sow and 
plant early, whereby the crops will gain sufficient strength to 
resist the droughts of summer ; but in such as are cold, wet, 
and late, the state of the weather must determine the time of 
sowing. It is always better to wait until the ground be in a fit 
state to receive the seed, than to sow too early, when it is not 
in such good order, as many of the less hardy seeds will not 
vegetate freely, indeed scarcely at all, if sown at this early 
period of the year, when the ground is wet. Let all coverings 
be removed v/hich were used in protecting vegetables during the 
winter, and rough dig all ground not immediately required. 

The gi'avel-walks should now be put in order for the season, 
and all unpleasant objects removed from this time till the end o. 
autumn ; for an equal degree of order and neatness is as neces- 
sary in the culinary garden, as in that appropriated to flowers 
alone. 



Apr.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 125 



APRIL. 



PLANTING BEANS. 

Plant more beans as a successional crop to those planted the 
preceding month, and earth up those already above ground, 
accordingly as they may require it. Hoe the ground frequently 
between the rows, both to destroy the weeds and promote the 
growth of the beans. If any have been sown for transplanting, 
let that now be done ; for which, see March, 



SOWING PEAS. 

Sow more peas for a successional crop, and earth up such as 
are in want of it. Stick such as are about four or six inches 
high. If any have been sown for transplanting, let it now be 
done. 



MANAGEMENT OF CAULIFLOWERS. 

The early cauliflower-plants under hand-glasses, should have 
earth drawn up round their stalks. This will be of great ser- 
vice in promoting their growth ; but let due care be taken that 
no earth be drawn into their hearts, for that will prove very 
injurious to the plants. 

The hand or bell-glasses may still be kept over these plants 
at night, and during cold wet weather ; but in fine days, and 
when there are warm showers, let them be exposed to the free 
air ; but when the plants are advanced in growth, the glasses 
should be tilted proportionably high on props, first raising a 
border of earth two or three inches high about the plants, then 
place the props upon that, and set the glasses on the props ; 
but about the end of the month, if the plants be large, they 
should be taken quite away. 

Where any of the winter standing cauliflower-plants m 
frames, borders, &c. were not finished planting out last month, 
let it now l)e done, as there directed. 



U6 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



Young cauliflower-plants raised from seed sown last month, 
should now be pricked out into nursery-beds, or some in a 
hot-bed, to forward them for final transplantation. 

The cauliflower-plants which were produced from seed sown 
early this season, should be removed about the latter end of 
this month, if sufficiently strong, if not, defer it till next month. 

Choose a piece of good ground for them, in an open situa- 
tion ; some good rotten dung should be dug in. Set the plants 
about two feet, or thirty inches apart from each other every way. 

Water them as soon as they are planted ; and in dry wea- 
ther repeat it occasionally, till the plants have taken good root. 



SOWING CAULIFLOWERS. 

Cauliflower for a successional crop may be sown any time in 
this month on a sheltered border. 

Birds being very destructive to the seeds of all the brassica 
tribe, it will therefore be necessary to guard against them by 
covering the beds with 
mats, or with old fish- 
ing-nets, if they can be 
procured, until the seeds 
begin to vegetate. The 
annexed figure repre- 
sents a very good and 
simple scare -crow for 
birds. Take a long 
straight slender rod of 
hazel, or any other elastic wood, about six or eight feet long, 
place it in the ground in a slanting direction ; from the point 
A drop the line B of small cord, to which at C fix a potato, 
which is stuck full of feathers of different colours. This will 
produce a simple pendulum, which is kept in motion by the 
wind ; the potato may be suspended at about twelve or fifteen 
inches from the ground. This is an efficacious method of 
scaring away birds, and it was observed by a friend in the gar- 
dens of the late A. Bacon, Esq. of Elcot, in Berkshire. 

The cauliflower-plants kept in pots during the winter may, 
when the weather is fine, be planted out. The ground being 




Apr.] THE CULIITARY GARDEN. 1^7 

dug, make holes sufficiently large for each plant to admit of a 
spade full or two of good rotten dung being placed in it, and 
upon this dung set the plants, one in each hole, at the regular 
distances. Turn them carefully out of the pots without dis- 
turbing the balls ; if the weather be dry, settle the mould 
about them with a gentle watering. The pots may be left by 
their side, and if sharp frosts occur, cover the plants every 
evening by inverting the pots over them, or shelter them by 
placing one or two branches of spruce, or fronds of sti'ong fern, 
round them. Remove these protections by degrees, as the 
plants get established, and the weather becomes more settled. 

CAPE BROCCOLI. 

The cape broccoli sown in autumn, and wintered with the 
cauliflowers, may now be planted, and treated in the same 
manner as the cauliflower. To protect them from the cold 
cutting winds of April, stick a few branches round each plant ; 
this will not only break off the winds, but partially shade them 
until they have taken root. 

SOWING BROCCOLI. 

Sow a moderate quantity of early purple broccoli, early 
white, dwarf brown, three-headed purple broccoli, Portsmouth, 
sulphur-colored, cauliflower broccoli, late dwarf purple broc- 
coli, Siberian, or Danish. Sow the seeds on a rich sheltered 
border, and cover them with mats, or long litter, if the wea- 
ther be frosty. Should it, however, be mild and dry, give 
plenty of water. When the plants are two or three inches 
high, transplant them into rich beds four inches apart. Still 
continue the use of water freely, if the weather be dry ; in 
two or three weeks, they will be fit for a second transplanting ; 
but should any of the sorts, or all come up weakly, leave them 
for a longer time in the seed-bed ; from which, a part may be 
planted out where they are to remain, in May, without being 
transplanted at all a second time. 



128 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



sow AND PLANT CABBAGES. 

Sow and plant all sorts of cabbages, and earth up and clear 
from weeds the crops already planted. Take advantage of dry 
days to stir the surface about the stems of all the forward crops 
of cabbages : this will refresh and strengthen them. Prefer 
for this sowing the Battersea, Imperial, Antwerp, and Penton- 
ville. 

sow SAVOYS. 

Sow full crops of savoys, both at the beginning and end of 
the month. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Sow now Brussels sprouts for a full crop. It is difficult to 
procure the genuine seed of the Dutch Brussels sprout, which 
is preferable to all other varieties, forming little close heads in 
spring. In Holland, and other parts of the continent, this 
vegetable is held in high estimation, and is sent to table during 
nearly ten months of the year. 

SOWING BORECOLE. 

Many sorts of kale are understood under the general name 
of borecole ; the principal of which are, the green borecole, 
or Scotch kale, German greens,^ Buda kale, Woburn perennial 
kale, ragged Jack, purple or brown kale. For the others, 
see the Systematic Catalogue. The seeds of the two former 
and the two latter may now be sown on a border of middling 
good ground. The third, or Woburn kale, is propagated by 
cuttings of six or seven inches long, and planted, where they 
are finally to remain. By the end of this month, tlie crop of 
this kale will be exhausted, the stems may be cut down within 
two or three buds of the ground ; which must be dug over, 
and after^\ ards kept clear of weeds. 



Apr.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 1^ 

SOWING SALSAFY, SCORZONERA, AND SKIRRETS. 

Sow all these sorts about the middle of the month, in di'ills 
twelve or fifteen inches apart. Cover them slightly. As their 
roots are esteemed, when large, let the ground be sub-trenched, 
and manured with a compost of rotten dung, road-scrapings, 
&c. Avoid using rank dung for any sort of vegetable, the 
roots of which are to be used. 

If the gi'ound be dry, tread it slightly, and scatter a fe\* 
lettuce-seeds thinly among them. 

They will require thinning in May or June, to five or six 
inches distant ; the roots will attain perfection in autumn, and 
continue good during the winter, until the following spring. 

PLANTING POTATOES. 

New or improved varieties of this valuable root are only to 
be obtained from seed, which ripens in great abundance upoa 
the later kinds; but the earliest varieties seldom produce either 
flowers or seeds. Where it is intended to originate varieties from 
seeds, the apples as they are called, or seed-envelops, should 
be gathered in October when ripe, and the seeds taken out by 
washing the pulpy matter several times, until the seeds be left 
clean. They should be preserved until the spring, and sown in 
a light dry soil in drills, and covered to the depth of three 
inches ; they will soon appear above ground, and, as they ad- 
vance in growth, thin them out to five or six inches apart, and 
keep them clear of weeds till autumn, when they will be fit to 
take up. The first season, the tubers will be very small, though 
numerous ; select such, whose formation appears to be most per- 
fect for the purpose of planting the ensuing spring. At the 
end of the second year's growth, they will have attained a size 
sufficient to determine their properties; and such as appear 
worthy of cultivation, should be kept for planting, and the 
remainder thrown away. It would undoubtedly be worthy the 
attention of cultivators, who attempt this process, to impreg- 
nate the blosso)ns of one valuable sort with the farina of 
another; many valuable fruits have been thus produced, and 

s 



130 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



as the parts of fructification in potatoes are sufficiently large, 
the greater would be the probability of success. 

Early potatoes from a defect in their formation, are not so 
capable of being thus multiplied into varieties. An experiment 
of Mr. Knight's, given in the Horticultural Society's Transac- 
tions, is for its ingenuity worth recording, by which he induced 
a state of flowering in potatoes of this sort. " I suspected 
the cause of the constant failure of the early potato to produce 
seeds, to be the preternatural early formation of the tuberous 
root, which draws off for its support that portion of the sap, 
which, in other plants of the same species, affords nutriment to 
the blossoms and seeds, and the experiment soon satisfied me 
that my conjectures were perfectly well founded. I took several 
methods of placing the plants to grow, in such a situation as 
enabled me readily to prevent the formation of tuberous roots, 
but the following appearing the best, it is unnecessary to trou- 
ble the society with any other. Having fixed strong stakes in 
the ground, 1 raised the mould in a heap round the bases of 
them, and in contact with the stakes : on the south sides I 
planted the potatoes from which I wished to obtain seeds. 
When the young plants were about four inches high, they were 
secured to the stakes with shreds and nails, and the mould was 
then washed away by a strong current of water from the bases 
of their stems, so that the fibrous roots only of the plants en- 
tered into the soil. The fibrous roots of this plant are perfectly 
distinct organs from the runners which give existence, and 
subsequently convey nutriment to the tuberous roots, and as 
the runners spring from the stems only of the plants, which are 
in the mode of culture I have described, placed wholly out of 
the soil, the formation of tuberous roots is easily prevented ; 
and whenever this is done, numerous blossoms will soon appear, 
and almost every blossom will afford fruit and seeds." 

From these facts, Mr. Knight considered it sufficiently 
proved, that the same sap gives existence alike to the tuber 
and the blossom and seeds, and that whenever a plant of the 
potato affords either seeds or blossoms, a diminution of the 
crop, or an increased expenditure of the riches of the soil, 
must necessarily take place. The practice of taking off the 
blossoms of those sorts which produce them, is in accordance 



Apr.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



131 



with this idea, and when practised, will certainly tend to in- 
crease the bulk of tubers, by diverting those juices into them, 
which otherwise would be expended in perfecting flowers and 
seeds. 

In planting potatoes, much importance is attributed by some 
horticulturists to the size of the sets, or portions of the tuber, 
which are to be planted, some recommending them to be 
large, and others small, and many attach a degree of import- 
ance to that part of the tuber fi'om which the best sets should 
be taken. According to the doctrine of Knight, small sets 
may be used for late crops, as the plants attain a considerable 
size before they begin to form tubers ; whereas, for early crops, 
the largest tubers should be chosen ; these, he affirms, not only 
produce stronger plants, but they will also more readily recover 
the injuries sustained by frosts, on the principle, that as they 
are fed by a copious supply of food from the larger tubers, 
they are the more capable of sending up vigorous shoots, to 
replace those, which may have been injured or destroyed by 
frost, or other causes. In cutting the tubers into sections or 
sets, the extreme or watery end should be rejected, as having 
a tendency to run too much to halm, and having the eyes 
clustered and small. The root, or dry end, should also be 
rejected, as being more tardy in growth, and being supposed to 
produce the curl from being over ripened. The middle part, 
therefore, of the tuber is to be preferred and divided in pieces, 
having each one perfect and well-formed eye or bud. 

An intelligent contributor to the Gardeners' Magazine, who 
styles himself a Denbighshire Gardener, gives the following 
valuable remarks upon choosing seed-potatoes: " Preferring 
unripe potatoes for seed is not new in practice, it has prevailed 
for ages. Where do the farmers of the rich soils and warm 
countries send for their seed-wheat and seed-potatoes ? to the 
cold hilly countries, where they do not one season out of three 
thoroughly and perfectly ripen their seed. In Denbighshire, 
we call the hilly, or unripe potato, the wet potatoes ; and those 
from the rich soils and warm situations, where they ripen per- 
fectly, we call the dry potatoes, although exactly the same 
varieties : the wet or unripe are reckoned the best for seed, 
and the dry for food. The potato tuber is a perfect organized 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



system, in which the circulation regularly proceeds, and if 
suffered to ripen, will then tend to decay ; but if separated be- 
fore ripe from the stem or stalk, which furnishes it with blood 
or fruit-sap descending from the leaves, the circulation of the 
blood-sap is suddenly arrested." 

*' The ripe potato having performed all its operations, becomes 
more inert, but the circulation of the sap in the unripe tuber 
having been stopped, it starts more readily, and with greater 
vigour when planted ; the one seems to die, worn out with age, 
the other seems accidentally to have fallen asleep, and when 
awakened, possesses an unspent vigour and energy. This is 
the case not only with the potato, but also with the apple, 
pear, and other fruits, whose life, if I may so express it, it is 
desirable to prolong or extend beyond the time naturally 
allotted to it ; they are then taken off the tree long before they 
are ripe, and experience has taught us, that they will keep 
much longer, and eat much fresher, than those suffered to grow 
ripe upon the tree: the same is the case with the potatoes 
taken up before ripe. Placing the potatoes upon the gravel, 
or in the sun, on any dry but not a grass walk, has the effect of 
stopping the circulation in the tuber, in which nature has pro- 
vided resources to carry it on to an extraordinary degree, un- 
less so stopped.** 

" If you will examine the potato-stem or plant, when the 
tubers are beginning to be formed, you will find that the pota- 
toes are placed upon the runners pushed or issuing out from 
the plant or stem above the set. The functions of the set are 
to push out roots, to gather food from the soil, to supply the 
plant and leaves with that food, and from the leaves, the blood 
or fruit-sap flows down to form the runners, and new potatoes; 
and the more you earth up the plant or stem, the more run- 
ners are formed higher up on the stem, and the more pota- 
toes are produced." He concludes by stating, " that earth- 
ing up the potatoes causes them to be later; and that by 
earthing them up after taking away a few of the earliest, also 
causes them to throw out more runners and produce more pota- 
toes ; the top or eye-cuts producing potatoes a fortnight earlier 
than the bottoms of the same tubers." 

This is somewhat similar to the doctrine laid down by Mr, 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



133 



Knight, which will be subsequently noticed. The same intel- 
ligent writer, in another communication in that useful periodi- 
cal, supposes, that seed-potatoes from a cold and poor soil, 
when planted in a rich and favorable one, will hasten their 
maturity six weeks ; he justly observes, that " obtaining a crop 
six weeks earlier than usual is an object deserving the highest 
consideration ; its coming into use at the season of the year, 
when the poor man's garden affords him no new vegetables, 
when the stock of the old potatoes is become short and dear, 
and withal so bitter, unpalatable, and unwholesome, to have 
then a crop of new potatoes is a delicacy indeed, especially to 
the poor, depending so much for their support upon the potato ; 
still more so to the Irish poor, to whom the potato may be 
said to be the staff of life." 

Regarding that disease called the curl, so injurious to potato 
crops, he presents us with the following valuable remarks : "I 
have," he says, " planted several rows of early pink-eyes from 
ripe tubers, which are now coming up almost all curled ; not 
a curl appears on any of the same variety from unripe tubers, 
although planted within a few yards of each other. The last 
autumn, (1826,) being warm and long, enabled the worm 
to grow stronger and more vigorous to attack the potato, in 
which it made holes, and therein perhaps deposited its eggs, 
which, nourished by the heat, acquired life and strength, and 
after the potato was planted and became soft, it grew vigorous 
and preyed upon its sap, rendering the plant weak and curled. 
I am," he says, " inclined to think that the worm is the cause 
of the curl, and that if potatoes, intended for sets, were taken 
up before being ripe, that is, before they are full grown, the 
worm will not have attacked them ; and that if it has, ex- 
posing the potatoes to the sun will kill the worm before it has 
deposited any of its eggs." He concludes this paper by re- 
commending potatoes intended for seed for the following sea- 
son, to be taken up before they are fully grown, and exposed to 
the sun for a month or six weeks, and at the season of plant- 
ing, to " observe the eye-cut, and by placing it upward, it will 
secure, without any further trouble or expense, a crop of every 
variety of potato six weeks earlier than the same variety will 
produce if allowed to gTow to maturity." 



134 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



Mr. Knight, in one of his valuable papers, in the Trans- 
actions of the Horticultural Society, says, " When the planter 
is anxious to obtain a crop within the least possible time, he 
will find the position in which the tubers are placed to vege- 
tate by no means a point of indifference ; for these being shoots 
or branches, which have grown thick instead of elongated, 
retain the disposition of branches, to propel their sap to their 
leading buds or points most distant from the stems of the plants 
of which they once formed a part. If the tubers be placed 
with their leading buds, a few very strong and early shoots 
will spring from them ; but if their position be reversed, many 
weaker and later shoots will be produced, and not only the 
earliness but the quality of the produce will be much affected 
in size." 

Ground in which potatoes are to be planted, if not in to- 
lerable good condition, should be dunged, but when they can 
be grown in fi'esh unimpoverished soil without manure, their 
flavor will be better. Ground which has long lain uncropped, 
or that which has never been in a state of cultivation, if dry 
and not very barren, will produce excellent potatoes, both in 
quantity and quality. Leaves of trees, not too much decom- 
posed, are good manure for this crop, and will produce 
both early crops, and have the least effect on their flavor. 
Rank and unfermented dung is the worst that can be applied. 

Amongst the many curious and interesting experiments made 
by Mr. Knight upon this valuable vegetable, is the following : 

by planting in June or July, he conceives, that an exhausted 
good variety may, in a great measure, be restored, by using 
the produce of this late planting for the seed of the succeeding 
season, planted at the proper time." But, with all due defer- 
ence to the worthy president's theory, we have been dis- 
appointed in practice by its adoption. In 1824 and 1825, we 
planted several kinds of potatoes, in the beginning of July, in 
the open fields, which, although considered good sorts, yet 
had ceased, in the gardens at Stratton Park, to be good in 
quality. The produce of this late planting was again planted 
in March and April in the gardens, and we found them not im- 
proved in quality nor size, but rather progressively worse. It 
is, however, a matter of much importance, and the result of 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



135 



similar experiments may differ in different situations. A vege- 
table, which constitutes no inconsiderable portion of the food 
of man, deserves our utmost care in its improvement, and it is 
to be regretted, that so few appear, in that point of view, to 
pay the necessary attention to it. Indeed, to Mr. Knight, in 
England, and Messrs. Dickson, Crichton, Young, and Shir- 
reff, in Scotland, we are indebted principally for the improve- 
ments, which have been made in the culture of this root. 

SPINACH. 

Sow spinach for a successional crop, to come in, in May and 
June. Where a constarut supply of this plant is required, sow 
once a fortnight, as the spring sowings soon run up to seed ; 
the round-leaved spinach is still the proper sort to sow, either 
broad-cast and raked in, or in shallow drills, or in di'ills be- 
tween the crops of peas, beans, and such like crops ; the 
shade afibrded by them will prolong the season of the spinach. 

Hoe the spinach which was sown in the former month, espe- 
cially the broad-cast sowings : and thin the plants out to three, 
four, or five inches distant. 

SOWING BEET. 

Beet for a full crop should now be sown ; the ground should 
be sub-trenched, which will prevent the roots from forking. 
Sow in drills twelve inches apart, and moderately thin ; cover 
lightly ; and, if the ground be dry, tread the whole slightly. 
The true blood-red is the sort most esteemed for its roots ; the 
other sorts should also now be sown. 

The white beet is cultivated as a substitute for spinach. 
The great w^hite or sweet beet is cultivated for the midribs and 
stalks, which are separated fi'om the lamina of the leaf, and 
are stewed and eaten like asparagus under the name of chard. 
This sort is much more esteemed and cultivated on the conti- 
nent than in this country. 

The sort called mangel-root (mangel-wiirzel of the Ger 
mans) is a valuable agricultural root for feeding cattle, and 
affords, equally with all the others, a considerable quantity of 



136 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Apr. 

sugar. It is seldom cultivated in the gardens. In dry seasons, 
beets are liable to be destroyed by the turnip-fly ; it is there- 
fore advisable to sow a small bed or two in different parts of 
the garden, partially shaded. If the general crop fail, then it 
may be made good by transplanting those from the seed-beds. 
This should, however, be done carefully, as the roots are 
liable to be destroyed in taking up. The mangel-wurzel we 
would particularly recommend to the attention of cottagers ; it 
will grow in almost any situation, and if reared on a small 
seed-bed will be fit to transplant on the same ground that has 
been occupied by early potatoes, peas, or such like crops. It 
will be extremely useful to those who keep a cow, giving to 
the animal three or four roots twice a day, according to their 
size ; some pigs are remarkably fond of it, and when boiled 
few will refuse to eat it. 

The seeds of the true red beet are difficult to procure ; when 
therefore a gardener succeeds in obtaining a few good roots, he 
should be careful to propagate it by seed. In doing so, let it 
be planted remote from all other beets, to guard against their 
being impregnated with any other sort. 

SOWING CAPSICUMS. 

Capsicums are used either for pickling or preserving, and 
may be sown in any kind of forcing-house, or in a hot-bed, in 
a pot or box filled with fine light mould. Having attained to 
the height of about two inches, it will be proper to plant them 
in small pots, and afterwards to repot them, and place them in 
a forcing-house ; they may then be planted out in June in a 
warm sheltered situation. They may also be planted at this 
time in the border of any kind of forcing-house, where they 
are not much shaded, and have ample room to grow ; the cul- 
ture of them is simple, according to either of these methods. 
They require a light earth, but not excessively rich, and to be 
pretty freely supplied with water ; or they may be sown in the 
open air, where, in favorable situations, they will come to ma- 
tui'ity. 



jipr.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. IS7 

SOWING CARROT. 

Carrots should now be sown ; the sorts are, the orange, long 
red, and the Alteringham, which is an excellent sort originally 
from Cheshire ; the orange is also a good sort ; the long red is 
generally cultivated in fields for cattle, and in farmers' gar- 
dens, for colouring butter. The seeds have numerous forked 
hairs on their borders, by which they adhere, and therefore, 
previously to sowing, they should be well rubbed between the 
hands, and mixed with dry sand, in order to separate them as 
much as possible ; they are also very light, and therefore a 
quiet still day should be chosen for sowing. The seeds should 
be trodden in after sown, previously to being raked in. The 
gi'ound should be deep dug, or half-trenched and drilled in 
rows, twelve or fourteen inches apart. In strong stiff soils, 
cover the seeds in the drills with vegetable mould, or any other 
light dry mould, most conveniently at hand. 

As the young plants are liable to be destroyed by insects, 
the better practice is to sow thick. The middle of May is a 
good time to sow carrots, as by that time, the grubs will have 
attained their fly-state before the plants come up. In sowing all 
general crops, it is advisable to sow at two or even three dif- 
ferent times, so that if one crop be destroyed, another may 
succeed. 

SOWING PARSNEPS. 

A full crop of parsneps should now be sown, if not done in 
March. 

TRANSPLANTING CELERY. 

The celery-plants, which were sown in February or March, 
for an early crop, will be fk to prick out about the middle or 
latter end of this month, into a nursery-bed of rich light earth. 

Prepare for this purpose a piece of rich ground, form it into 
beds, and rake the surface even ; then thin out a number of 
the best plants from the seed-bed, and plant them into the 
above, at about three inches apart every way; then give a 

r 



138 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. l^pf' 

moderate watering, and repeat it occasionally till the plants 
have taken fresh root. The grounrd for this purpose cannot be 
too well manured, and if they be pricked out into rotten dung 
alone, they will be the stronger. 

The plants should continue in the beds a month, at least, to 
gain strength before they are planted out finally into the 
trenches. 

As these early sown plants, after they are fit for use, will not 
remain long before they run up to seed, a great number of 
*hem should not be planted out. 

Sow some celery-seed, in the first or second week of this 
month, to raise plants for succeeding those, which were sown 
in March. 

Dig for this purpose a bed of rich light earth, and make 
the surface smooth ; sow the seed thereon tolerably thick ; 
and either rake it in gently, or otherwise cover it about a quar- 
ter of an inch with fine earth, and, in dry weather, give mo- 
derate waterings, both before and afler the seed comes up. 

CELERIAC. 

Celeriac sown last month, when fit to be transplanted, should 
be done on a bed of light rich mould, and abundantly sup- 
plied with water. 

SPRING-DRESSING ARTICHOKES. 

For directions, see March. 

SOWING LEEKS. 

If a full crop of leeks were not sown last month, let that be 
done without delay. 

ASPARAGUS. 

If the state of the weather, or any other circumstance, have 
hitherto prevented the asparagus-beds being dressed, and young 
beds made, and sown, let that now be done. For full direc- 
tions, see March, 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



139 



LETTUCES. 

Continue to sow and transplant lettuces of all sorts; the 
better the ground, the more luxuriant will be their growth. 
Sow each sort separately, and in transplanting set the plants 
from ten to twelve inches apart, after which, water them occa- 
^onally till they have taken root. Repeat the sowings and 
plantings once every fortnight, or three weeks, that a regular 
supply may be obtained. 

RADISHES. 

Sow radishes of different sorts every week during the sum- 
mer. They may be sown in drills between lines of peas, or 
on spare borders where they are partially shaded. Give plenty 
of water in dry weather : if this be not attended to, they will 
be hard and unfit for use. Thin the crops already sown, each 
from two to three inches apart. 

SMALL SALADING. 

Sow small salading about once every week or fortnight; the 
sorts are cresses, mustard, rape, &c. 

Dig a bed of light mellow earth for these seeds, and rake 
the surface fine. Draw some flat shallow drills, sow the seedi 
therein, each kind separate, and cover them lightly with earth. 

Water them moderately, if the weather should be dry, which 
will greatly promote their growth. If those in the open ground 
be attacked with hoary morning frost, and a sunny day suc- 
ceed, water the frost off before the sun shines strong upon them. 

SOWING NASTURTIUMS. 

Sow nasturtium-seed : draw a drill or di'ills, about an inch 
deep and a yard asunder, or a single drill under any fence, &c. 
on which to train the plants in their running growth ; sow the 
seed moderately thin, and cover it in regularly. 



140 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



PURSLANE. 

Purslane may be sown now, if warm dry weather, on a bed 
of light rich earth, in the common ground. Sow it either in 
drills six inches asunder, or on the surface, and rake it in 
lightly and regularly. Water the bed often in dry weather, 
and shade it from the hot sun till the plants have acquired a 
little strength. 

But if cold or very wet weather, sow some either in a hot- 
bed, under the shelter of glasses, or in a warm dry border 
and defended from cold, &c. This plant is by many people 
much esteemed in summer salads. 

SOWING ONIONS. 

Where circumstances prevented the principal crops of onions 
from being sown last month, let that now be done ; for the 
distance between the drills, and preparation of the ground, see 
March. However, in strong wet soils, onions may be still 
sown with better success, than if sown earlier, particularly if 
the ground were wet. 

TRANSPLANTING ONIONS. 

Onions may be successfully transplanted, particularly the 
crops sown in autumn. Prepare a piece of ground moderately 
rich, which has been well manured for the preceding crop. 
Let it be well dug, and rendered fine with the spade. As the 
process of digging is carried on, draw drills an inch and a half 
deep, and twelve inches apart. Having drawn the first drill, 
proceed to di'aw from the autumn crop, a sufficient number of 
plants, so as to leave a crop on the gi'ound ; let them be drawn 
carefully. If the ground be hard, loosen the whole ; this will 
not only enable you to thin out the crop, without injuring the 
plants, but will materially promote the growth of those which 
remain. Having drawn a number sufficient to plant one drill, 
proceed to lay them regularly into the same, observing not to 
cover the bulb of them too much. The fibrous roots are all 
that ought to be covered, and this should be done to the thick- 



Apr.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



141 



ness of an inch and a half. Press the mould which covers 
them gently down with the back of a spade, and give them a 
gentle watering over head; prefer to cover with light sandy- 
loam or vegetable mould. In a few days, if showery weather 
intervene, the whole crop will take root in the ground. If 
the weather be diy, let them be watered every afternoon, with 
a strong garden engine, which can be done without treading 
the ground. Onions sown on slight hot-beds may be trans- 
planted in the same manner. 

Transplanting onions is by no means a new feature in gar- 
dening. The Neat-House gardeners of Battersea, adopted 
this practice at a very early period, and it was not unknown 
to the cottagers in many parts of England. It has, however, 
been revived by Knight, Warre, M'Donald and others, and 
deserves to be more generally adopted. Knight's opinion 
is, that " Every bulbous-rooted plant, and indeed every plant 
which produces leaves, and lives longer than one year, gene- 
rates in one season, the sap or vegetable blood which com- 
poses the leaves and roots of the succeeding spring ; and when 
the sap has accumulated during one or more seasons, it is 
ultimately expended in the production of blossoms and seeds. 
This reserved sap is deposited in and composes in a great 
measure the bulb ; and moreover, the quantity accumulated, 
as well as the period required for its accumulation, vary greatly 
in the same species of plant, under more or less favourable 
circumstances." 

" Thus the onion, in the south of Europe, acquires a much 
larger size in a sino^le season, than in the colder climate of 
England ; but under the following mode of culture, two sum- 
mers in England produce nearly the effect of one in the 
southern parts of Europe, and the onion assumes nearly the 
form and size of those thence imported. Spanish or Portu- 
guese onions are sown at the usual period in the spring, very 
thick, and in poor soil, generally under the shade of a fruit- 
tree ; and in such situations, the bulbs in the autumn are 
rarely found much to exceed the size of a large pea. These 
are then taken from the ground, and preserved till the suc- 
ceeding spring, when they are planted at equal distances from 
each other, and they afford plants possessing much greater 



142 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



sti'ength and vigour than those raised immediateiy seed* 
The bulbs, thus raised, often exceed five inches in diameter, 
and being more mature, preserve through the winter a perfect 
soundness." 

SOWING FRENCH BEANS. 

At the beginning of the month, French beans may be sown 
in a hght, rich, warm border, and towards the close of the 
month, they may be sown on a more open spot of ground. By 
the adoption of this plan, a regular succession of crop will be 
obtained. In the first sowing, we would recommend the 
speckled dwarf; and for the latter sowing, the negro. Batter- 
sea, or the liver-colored ; they must be sown in drills about 
two feet apart, and two inches deep, or the beans may be 
dropped in by the hand at an inch distant; the effect ot 
this will be, that a more even crop will be obtained; they 
should also be sown in dry weather, as wet is apt to destroy 
the seeds in the ground. Do not tread the ground, but cover 
and dress it with the rake. 

If it be required to have a very early crop of French beans, 
it will be necessary to sow them in pots or boxes, and placed 
in the hot-house, or in a hot-bed. The seed may thus be sown 
about the beginning of the month, and when arrived at a pro- 
per size may be planted out in fine rich earth at the bottom of 
a wall or hedge, having a southern aspect. If the plants be 
set in single lines, they must be planted at three inches dis- 
tant; but if in double lines, about a foot apart, and at four 
or five inches distant in the line ; the plants will thereby be 
kept as near as possible to the wall or hedge, and reap the 
Ml benefit of its shelter. Particular care must be taken not 
to plant too deep, and after every planting to give a little water. 

Scarlet runners may now be sown ; and if another crop be 
sown in July, it will tend to prolong the season of French 
beans to the very latest, as they will continue bearing until 
they be destroyed by the fi'ost. For the latter purpose, the 
white runners are equally good. 

The climbing sorts of French beans are not so hardy as the 
dwarfs, therefore only a few should be sown, unless the wea- 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



14^ 



ther be fine. The beginning of next month will be time enough 
for full crops. They should be allowed four feet between the 
rows, as they grow very tall, and four inches apart in the lines. 

SOWING TURNIP. 

Turnip, to succeed those sown last month, should be sown at 
the beginning, middle, and end of the month, either in drills 
an inch deep, or broad-cast thinly. Sow the early stone, or 
the early white Dutch. They may be sown between crops of 
peas, asparagus, or sea-kale, provided the soil be light. Re- 
fresh plentifully with water, and sprinkle a little wood-ashes, 
if the fly make its appearance. Keep them clear of weeds, 
and ultimately thin them out to three or four inches apart. 

LOVE-APPLES. 

Sow love-apples for their fruit to pickle, and for soups, &c., 
if omitted last month ; this is still a proper season for that 
work, sowing them in a hot-bed, as directed in March. 

SOWING AND PLANTING SEA-KALE. 

This plant is indigenous to many of our sea-shores, growing 
in fine drifted sand, sometimes covered partially with small 
stones and gravel. In light sandy garden-soils, it comes to 
perfection with little care, but in strong clayey soils it is often 
apt to rot in winter. In preparing ground for sea-kale, if the 
ground be naturally strong, it should be trenched to the depth 
of three feet, if it will admit of that depth, and well manured. 
Divide the gi'ound into four-feet beds, with alleys eighteen 
inches wide ; throw out the mould of the alleys to the depth 
of ten or twelve inches, which mould being laid on the beds, 
will raise them from fifteen to eighteen inches above the bottom 
of the alleys, which will render the be<ls dry. If the ground 
be particularly stiff, lay on a quantity of fine sharp sand, 
which, if properly mixed in the process of trenching, will ren- 
der the beds sufficiently light for the cultivation of this excel- 



M4- THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Apt\ 

lent vegetable. About the middle of this month, if the beds 
be prepared as above, proceed to draw two drills in each bed, 
about two inches deep, in which the seeds must be sown. Sow 
moderately thick, so as to secure a crop, which afterwards 
will be thinned out to twelve inches apart. The turnip-fly and 
wire-worm are gi'eat enemies to all the plants of the class 
Tetradynamia. The best remedy for the latter, is to have 
them picked out of the ground by the hand ; the former may 
be prevented from doing much injury, by a circle of quick-lime 
strewed round the plants. 

Sea-kale may be cultivated by rearing the plants from seed 
on a seed-bed, and, when a year old, transplanting them into 
beds prepared as above, at the distance of eighteen inches each 
way; but in setting young plants, place them in patches of 
three plants each, taking care, in removing them from the seed- 
bed not to injure the tap-roots. Sea-kale plants of a proper age 
may be had of most nurserymen, but, in well regulated gar- 
dens, a part should be annually sown, so as to have a supply 
always at hand. However, where circumstances will admit, 
we would advise to sow the seeds in the beds, where they are 
to remain to come to perfection. This is attended with much 
less trouble, and if the beds have been properly prepared, the 
plants will become stronger than those which have been trans- 
planted. 

Sea-kale is propagated by some of the most eminent gar- 
deners in the vicinity of London, by cutting the roots of the 
old plants into pieces about an inch long, and planting them in 
drills like potatoes. By this means, the buds will spring and 
find their way to the surface with greater certainty than if 
planted by the dibble ; by which latter process, many of them 
run a chance of being placed with their root-end uppermost, 
and consequently be unproductive of shoots. 

BLANCHING SEA-KALE. 

The sprouts which rise at this time, and in May, being pro- 
perly blanched, are held in high estimation. The process of 
blanching is performed in a variety of ways. The most con- 
venient and the best for sea-kale, which is not forced, is to 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



145 



cover the beds in autumn with leaves raked up from the woods 
or pleasure-ground, covering each bed in thickness according 
to the strength and age of the plants, giving the greatest co- 
vering to the oldest or strongest roots. The covering may be 
from five inches to fifteen when first laid on, and over that, 
place a slight covering of light littery dung, to prevent the 
leaves fi'om blowing about ; this covering is to remain on until 
tlie crop be all cut, when it may be taken away, and the 
beds dug over, or when, from particular circumstances, this 
has not been attended to in autumn, as at this time the buds 
begin to appear, fork the beds regularly over, and cover the 
plants from twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches with saw-dust, 
or rotten tan, when it can be conveniently procured ; if neither 
can be had, break the mould on the surface of the beds as fine 
as possible, and mould up the plants with it. But where there 
are blanching-pots used for the crops of sea-kale, which have 
been forcing during the winter, they may be used with propriety 
to blanch the spring crops, as they will now be useless in the 
forcing department. Place them over the plants, and di'aw a 
sufficient quantity of mould round their base to prevent the 
admission of air. The action of the rays of the sun pene- 
trating through the pots will, in a considerable measure, acce- 
lerate their growth. Large flower-pots turned down upon them 
will answer the purpose, provided the holes in the bottom of 
the pots be stopped ; the plants will draw sufficient air for their 
sustenance, however well the holes may be stopped. For 
blanching sea-kale, see further in the Forcing-garden, 

When the young stems are about three or lour inches high, 
remove the leaves where they have been used, carefully with 
a fork, and cut them off, but so as not to injure the remaining 
buds, which are springing fi'om the same root. 

A succession of gatherings may be continued for five or six 
weeks, after which period, the plants should be uncovered and 
their leaves suffered to grow, that they may acquire and return 
a sufficient quantity of nutriment to the roots for the next year's 
buds. The flowers, when the seeds are not wanted, oiiirht to 
be nipped off with the finger and thumb as long as they ap- 
pear, as they tend considerably to weaken the plants. 

V 



146 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jpr. 



SOWING CARAWAY AND FENNEL. 

Sow a small quantity of each of these on a light rich border; 
a small spot will produce enough for an ordinary family. 

SOWING AND PLANTING MARJORAM. 

During the whole of this month, marjoram may be sown on 
a bed of light earth, and may be afterwards transplanted into 
rows nine or ten inches distant, and about three or four in the 
line. If it be required to have an early supply of knotted or 
sweet marjoram, a little may be sown about the beginning of 
the month, and be covered 'vvith a hand or bell-glass, for the 
purpose of bringing it forward. Pot-marjoram may be easily 
raised by slips taken from the roots. 

SOWING BASIL. 

The directions already given for marjoram are applicable to 
this plant ; or a little seed may be sown in a flat box, or pot, 
placed in any of the forcing-houses, and afterwards ti'ana- 
planted. 

PLANTING MINT. 

Sweet mint, or spear mint, is generally raised by slips of 
the root, and may be either planted closely in a bed, or in 
lines six or eight inches distant. It is a herb, which will thrive 
in almost all soils, but flourishes best in a light moorish 
earth. A few rows, or a small bed, are sufficient for a mid- 
dling-sized family. 

If it be wanted early for house-lamb, the roots should be 
covered with a hand-glass about the beginning of February, 
which will considerably advance its growth. 

SOWING BORAGE AND MARIGOLD. 

Sow in every respect as directed above for caraway and 
fennel. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



147 



PLANTING SAGE. 

This herb may be propagated either by cuttings, or by 
slips off the root. This is the proper season for propagating 
it by shps, but the end of J uly, or the beginning of August, 
is the most seasonable time for its propagation by cuttings. 
Although they will thrive in almost any soil, yet a light soil 
is preferable ; wet ground is by no means congenial to them, 
as in winter they often perish in it : a few slips will be suffi- 
cient, if wanted only in the green state ; but, if it be wanted 
to dry for winter use, a gi'eater number will be required. Two 
kinds are used in the kitchen, the green and the purple ; the 
variegated sorts are reckoned ornamental plants, and seldom 
cultivated for the kitchen. 

PROPAGATING MEDICINAL PLANTS. 

This is a proper time for sowing, or otherwise propagating 
all medicinal plants, such as angelica, hyssop, lavender, rue, 
wormwood, rosemary, balm, scurvy-grass, myrrh, burnet, &c. 

SOWING AND PLANTING THYME. 

This herb may also be propagated either by seed or from 
slips. The seed should be sown on a light soil, and when the 
plants are about two inches high, they may be planted out in 
lines, about nine inches asunder, or the slips may be planted 
at the same distance ; the seedlings may be thinned out, with- 
out transplanting, to about six inches square. 

PLANTING TANSY. 

This herb will thrive in almost any soil, and may be propa- 
gated by slips off the root ; very few will suffice, and if they 
be planted in patches, sufficient space must be given them to 
bush : but if they be planted in a row, the sets must be placed 
twelve or fifleen inches distant. 



148 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



SOWING AND PLANTING SAVORY. 

The same directions will apply for the propagation of sa- 
vory as those which have been given for marjoram. If the 
sweet sort be wanted at an early period, it may be brought for- 
ward by placing hand-glasses over the roots, or by planting 
the slips in a frame with lights. Winter savory may also be 
propagated in the same manner by slips. 

PLANTING TARRAGON, 

There are three methods of raising this herb, either by slips, 
cuttings, or seed ; if the former be adopted, less space will be 
required, and it will succeed, if the cuttings be made in August. 
A wet soil does not suit it ; it is apt to perish in it in the course 
of the winter. 

GOURDS AND PUMPKINS. 

The fruit of these plants being used when young, and in 
their more advanced and mature growth for culinary use, a few 
may be raised for that purpose. 

They are only propagated by seeds, which should be sown 
in pots or shallow pans, in any light rich mould, and placed 
in a melon or cucumber-frame to forward their growth; or 
where many are wanted to be raised for planting out in the 
pleasure-garden, or for training on walls or fences, or for 
hiding any disagreeable object, for which, from their rapid 
growth and large leaves, they are admirably calculated, they 
may be transplanted, when in their rough leaf, into pots of 
the size called thirty-two's, one plant in each, and forwarded 
on a slight hot-bed. When frilly established, air should be 
freely admitted every day, so as to inure them by degrees to 
meet their final transplantation in May. If the seeds be sown 
as above directed about the middle of the month, they will 
be in a proper state for transplantation about the end of May, 
which is as soon as they can be planted out with safety. The 
more curious sorts, either for their size or singular forms, will 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



149 



ripen their fruit in most seasons, if sown on a slight ridge of 
hot dung, and left to grow to maturity where they are sown, if 
only covered with hand or bell-glasses ; but this mode of cul- 
ture is only applicable to situations, where neatness is less 
attended to than convenience. In whatever situation they may 
be planted, it is necessary that they be set in a rich compost, 
three-fourths of which should be rotten dung. 

DESTROY SLUGS, &C. 

When slugs, caterpillars, &c. begin to appear, turn young 
ducks into the garden, once or twice a week ; but never let them 
remain longer than two or three days at a time, as they soon 
tire of their food, or become indolent from satiety. While in 
the garden, they should have no food given them ; but r little 
water is very necessary, if there be none in the garden. 

But the most effectual method of preventing the ravages of 
the slugs, is to have them gathered by the hand every morn- 
ing, as long as they appear numerous, carefully looking over 
those crops to which they are the most attached. If this 
method be slow, it is nevertheless sure. The market-gardeners 
in the vicinity of London scatter the leaves of cabbages, or 
lay patches of straw upon the gi'ound, under which the slugs 
retreat in the morning before the effects of the sun are too 
powerful for them ; these leaves, or straw, are examined during 
the day, and all the slugs are either gathered and destroyed, 
or are well sprinkled with lime water, which is certain to kill 
them. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

Let all the walks in, and connected with the kitchen-garden 
be now laid down, if not done in March ; nothing gives a gar- 
den a neater appearance than the walks being kept in good 
order. Let all the coverings that may have been used to pro- 
tect either winter or early spring crops be now cleared away. 
Rough dig all vacant ground, and hoe and rake all the small 
borders. Use the hoe freely among crops of winter onions, 
spinach, &c. Destroy all weeds as they appear, particularly 



150 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the various species of Veronicat and other early annuals, which, 
if not attended to, would spill their seeds on the ground, and 
produce them in a thousand fold. Have all roots, docks, 
dandelions, and similar weeds, carefully dug up with a fork, 
and immediately carried off in a basket to the woods. Let 
order and neatness be your constant aim. The garden, although 
appropriated solely to the culture of culinary vegetables, and 
not flowers, is not to be kept, like the garden of the sluggard, 
overgrown with briars and thistles. See every evening that all 
the tools used throughout the day have been carefully removed 
to the tool-shed. Nothing indicates carelessness more than 
seeing tools left in all directions, independently of the con- 
fusion which it makes, when they may be wanted on the mor- 
row. Be careful to destroy all snails and slugs, which at this 
season are invited abroad by the gentle showers of rain pecu- 
liar to the season, for if they be suffered to increase, they will 
become very troublesome and destructive to many of the crops. 

After a shower of rain draw the earth up to the stems of 
cabbages and cauliflower-plants, which were planted either in 
autumn or early in the spring. This is absolutely necessary, 
to guard their stems from the sun and wind, which dry and 
harden them ; but, in performing this operation, care must be 
taken not to draw the earth up into their hearts, which will 
destroy them. Hoeing at this season not only gives a neat 
appearance to the surface, but also promotes vegetation in the 
plants, and in dry weather prevents the too rapid evaporation 
of the moisture in the soil. As the operation of hoeing pro- 
ceeds, let the whole be neatly raked over, which will destroy 
those weeds which the hoe may have left. 



May.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



151 



MAY. 



PLANTING BEANS. 

Plant Windsor, Toker, or Sandwich beans, in lines three 
I feet apart ; or the long-pod and white-blossomed will succeed 
equally well. If they be planted three feet apart, a row of 
savoys, cabbages, or broccoli, may be set between them, when 
these plants are strong enough to plant out ; or, if they be four 
feet apart, then two rows of either of them may be planted 
between them, which will turn the whole of the ground to the 
best account. If a supply of young beans be wanted, it will 
be advisable to plant them at the beginning, middle, and end 
of the month. If there be choice of soil, allow them rather a 
damp situation at this season. Hoe and earth up the crops of 
bean? already above ground, and keep the whole clear of 
weeds. 

It will be proper to top those beans which are in flower, 
in order to promote the fi'ee setting of the pods. This should 
be particularly attended to in the early crops, for it will not 
only make them swell faster, but will forward them into fruit 
at least a week sooner than those which are allowed to run ; 
for, having no advancing top to nourish, their whole strength 
goes to the nourishment of the fruit. Observe to let the stems 
be first advanced to such a height, as to have a sufficient quan- 
tity of pods ; the early mazagan may be topped when about 
two feet high, and the larger sorts when from two feet and a 
half to three feet or three feet and a half high. 

SOWING PEAS. 

To have a regular supply, let some be sown at least twice in 
this month ; but where constant supplies of young peas are 
wanted, three or four sowings will not be too often, and there 
will be the greater chance of success in the late sowing. It is 
good practice not to sow in too large quantities al any season ; 
the better plan is to sow oftener, and to use a variety of sorts, 



152 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



SO that when one crop is exhausted, another will be ready 
to succeed it. 

The best sorts to sow at this time are the marrowfats, par- 
ticularly Knight's tall marrow, which, if sown in good ground, 
will yield abundantly, and the dwarf green imperial marrowfat ; 
also the Spanish moratto, gi'een and white rouncivals, being 
fine large sorts ; likewise any of the hotspur kinds, and Prussian 
peas. Those that are sown any time in this month will yield 
tolerably good crops toward the latter end of July, and in 
August. 

This is now a proper time to sow dwarf peas. These sorts 
seldom grow above two or three feet high ; some not above 
fifteen or eighteen inches, but are mostly great bearers ; the 
pods small but numerous, and the peas, while young, eat sweet 
and good ; those sown at thi* season will generally be more 
productive than the larger kinds, although it be not so ad- 
visable to sow in large quantities for any principal crops. Sow 
them in drills two feet or two and a half apart. 

Hoe, and let some earth be di'awn up about the stems ot 
the crops of peas which were sown in April, for this will 
strengthen the plants considerably. The early hotspur peas now 
in blossom, in warm borders, may be topped, as directed for 
beans; it will cause the pods to set and swell more freely, 
and will be fit to gather sooner. 

STICKING PEAS. 

Place sticks to rows of peas, according to the growth of 
the different young crops, for the plants to climb upon; this 
should generally be done when they are about six or seven 
inches high. 

A great advantage is derived from allowing sticks of a proper 
height, for the different sorts of peas to climb upon ; for the 
produce is generally not only much superior, but mora 
abundant, often even double the quantity, or more, than from 
those that are permitted to run upon the ground. 

The sticks for this purpose should be from four or five to 
seven feet high, according to the growth of the different sorts 
of peas ; they should also be well furnished with small lateral 



Mat/.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



153 



branches, that the plants may readily take hold without 
falling on the gi'ound, and they should be prepared in a 
fanned manner, so that the side branches extend only the wiay 
of the rows ; for this purpose, no wood is so good as beech- 
branches, as they naturally spread out like a fan. Some 
advise that they should be placed on the most sunny side 
of the rows ; at least towards the east or mid-day sun, where 
the position or range of the rows admits ; for the sun will natur- 
ally incline the plants that way, and they will more readily 
catch the sticks, which should be placed at such distances in 
the rows that the branches of each other may meet. Others 
place a row of stakes upon both sides of the row, and by this 
means the straw is better kept up than when only one row is 
used. 

The difficulty of procuring sticks for Knight's marrow pea, 
has deterred many persons from cultivating that excellent vege- 
table. An anonymous correspondent, however, in the Gar- 
deners' Magazine, considers that he has superseded that diffi- 
culty by the following invention, which consists of an upright 
stake, or standard of oak, three inches by one and a half 
inch, and about seven and a half feet long. Holes are bored 
through this stake with a half-inch auger, about three inches 
distant. Some good branching pea-sticks are then procured, 
from three feet to five feet long, and beginning at one side at 
bottom, are placed in the holes in such a way as to make thera , 
touch and form a com- -^r^ 
plete fan. The oaken 
Gtandard, when com- 
plete, shows sufficient 
pea-sticks for eight or 
nine feet length of row, 
six feet high. It is 
driven about eighteen 
inches into the ground, 
so as not to be shaken 
nor moved by the wind. 

The sticks generally used are elm, but hazel, or any other 
which ia spreading, with small twigs or sprays will do equally 
well. 




X 



154 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May. 



STOPPING PEAS. 

Stop the leading shoots of the most early crops when in 
blossom, which accelerates the setting and maturity of the 
fruit : this diverts the growth into the pods just forming, and 
forwards them in a considerable degree. The time for stopping 
is just when the flowers on the lower part of the stalk begin to 
fade. The plants need not be shortened more than an inch 
or two. This is only applicable to early crops. It would be 
an endless task upon a large scale, although, to a certain extent, 
it would be beneficial to all. 

SOWING AND PLANTING CAULIFLOWER. 

Towards the latter end of this month, cauliflower may be 
sown for a late, or for a last crop of the season, on a free open 
spot of light earth. The crop for a winter supply is to be 
raised from this sowing, and proper attention should be paid 
to give them a regular supply of water, accordingly as the 
state of the weather may require it. If the weather be very 
dry and the sun powerful, an occasional shading will be bene- 
ficial, so that the plants may be kept growing at as rapid a 
rate as possible. This is of much importance to the whole 
of the brassica tribe, particularly so to cauliflower and the 
varieties of broccoli, as, in a great measure, we thereby prevent 
them from running into seed, or, as it is technically called, 
buttoning. Cauliflower may now be planted out on a north 
border for a successional crop ; or in a shaded spot, where 
they will not be exposed to the full power of the sun ; the 
coldest and dampest situations in the garden will be the most 
useful tor such crops at this season, as they will not thrive well 
if planted in an open place. 

At this time, the crops which were formerly planted should 
be hoed and earthed up, according to the directions given last 
month; paying proper attention, at the same time, to those 
which are under hand-glasses, in regard to air and water. 

Examine the early crop, and if on any of them the flower 
begins to appear, it will be proper to break a leaf or two upon 



May."] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



155 



it, for the purpose of shading it from the sun, and at the same 
time of defending it from the rain. By this means, the flower 
is not only blanched, but its delicacy is increased. This exa- 
mination of the plants should be frequently attended to, not 
only with the early but also with the late crops ; for, by ad- 
hering to the system of breaking down the leaves on the flower, 
the blowing of it is considerably retarded in hot weather. 
The crops should be freely watered in dry weather, and a 
basin should be formed for the purpose of retaining the water 
round the roots of the plants. 



SOWING BROCCOLI. 

Broccoli a full crop should now be sown on a rich spot. 
Sow each sort separately, and attend in dry weather to water 
them freely. The sorts recommended for last month are now 
also to be sown, to which may be added the purple Cape, green 
Cape, Grange's early cauliflower broccoli. The white broccolis 
are supposed to be less alkalescent than the purple, and there- 
fore are by many preferred. 

PLANTING BROCCOLI. 

Those broccoli-plants which are fit, should now be planted 
out at the distance of two feet each way. Let the ground be 
well prepared, by giving it a large proportion of manure, and 
digging it well. In planting, take especial care not to bury 
the hearts of the plants. If the weather be dry, give a good 
watering, and occasionally repeat it, till the plants have taken 
root. 

It is often the case, that old gardens are infested with an 
insect, which insinuates itself into the roots of the brassica 
tribe, and causes the well-known disease called by gardeners 
the club. The only means of getting rid of this destructive 
disease, is by removing the cause ; and this is to be efiected by 
trenching the ground three feet deep or more, if possible, 
thereby burying the insect and its eggs beyond the possibility 
of its soon returning to the surface. Where this mode cannot 



156 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May. 



be effected, the evil may be partly cured by bringing in a 
quantity of fresh loam from a common or field, and digging it 
in; this will greatly benefit the broccoli, and be of much ser- 
vice to succeeding crops. A proper attention to a rotation of 
crop will also go far to eradicate this evil. 

In planting broccoli, as well as all the other plants of the 
brassica tribe, avoid, if possible, planting upon ground which 
has been under the same crop the preceding season. 

In a communication in the Horticultural Society's Trans- 
actions, by Mr. M*Leod, Cape broccoli is recommended to be 
grown without transplanting, and the success of this plan has 
been proved to be most complete. In the end of May, the 
ground is prepared and firmly trodden, the seeds are then 
dropped in, in rows two feet apart, and three or four seeds 
are put into each hole. When the seeds vegetate, they are all 
destroyed, excepting the strongest, which are protected from 
the fly by sprinkling a little soot on the ground. During the 
time the plants are advancing, the ground is frequently stirred 
with the hoe, and the plants are only once earthed up during 
their growth. Broccoli of a great size, cultivated in this way, has 
been exhibited before the society, and the same mode of culture 
is recommended by Mr. M'Leod as applicable to spring-sown 
cauliflower, lettuces, and many other vegetables, avoiding 
transplanting as much as possible. In this we perfectly concur 
with him, having experienced the advantage of obtaining better 
and more certain crops of lettuces, and many other summer 
crops of vegetables, when matured upon the spot where they 
were sown. Transplanting during the summer months, when 
plants are in an active state of growth, obviously gives a check 
to vegetation ; and it is an established doctrine amongst gar- 
deners, that such checks tend to produce a disposition, not 
only in annual vegetables but in fruit-trees also, to attain a 
state of maturity much sooner than those which have expe- 
rienced no such check. The longer, therefore, that such crops 
as broccoli can be kept growing freely, the finer will their pro- 
durp hp. 



Mai/,] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



157 



CABBAGES. 

Tiansplant spring-sown cabbage of all sorts for autumn and 
winter use. 

An open situation should be allotted to them ; however some 
may be planted between rows of early cauliflowers, or wide 
rows of garden or French-beans. 

But where there is ground to spare, it will be more advan- 
tageous to plant these crops in an open compartment by them- 
selves. Plant them out, if possible, in moist weather, in row 
two feet or two and a half apart, and about two feet distant 
in the lines: as soon as they are planted, give each a little 
water. 

Earth up the early and general crops of cabbages as they 
advance, and if the weather be dry, give occasional waterings. 
The early crops will now be advancing to makmty, and may 
be forwarded in cabbaging, if the leaves be tied together with 
strings of matting or willow twigs. This should be done 
when the leaves begin to turn inwards. Such as have run to 
seed should be pulled up ; nevertheless any that show signs of 
superior qualities, either of being more early or better formed 
than the others, should be allowed to stand and preserved for 
seed. It is only by making observations of this kind, that 
any expectation can be formed of procuring improved vege- 
tables. 

Sow sugar-loaf cabbage-seed, and any other close quick- 
hearting kinds, for summer and autumn coleworts, and young 
autumn cabbages. 

BORECOLE. 

Sow borecole for next autumn, winter, and spring use, if 
lot done in March and April. 

This is a useful plant, of the open cabbage tribe, and very 
well worth raising in every kitchen-garden, for the service of a 
family. There are many sorts, none of which form close heads 
like the common cabbage or savoy, but always remain open 
and loose in the heart; but they have, nevertheless, great 
merit for their exti'eme hardiness to endure coid, and are excel 
lent for winter and spring use. 



158 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Some of these plants run up with long stems, from two to 
three or four feet high, crowned by a large, spreading, bushy 
head of thick, fimbriated, curly leaves. They are very hardy, 
and capable of standing almost the severest winters. In the 
months of February and March, their long stems will be very 
productive from the bottom to the top in numerous fine young 
sprouts ; all of which, as well as the principal head, boil re- 
markably green and tender. 

The seed must be sown the first week in the month : but, in 
order to obtain strong, full-grown plants, with large stocky 
heads, and strong stems to produce a large supply of sprouts, 
a first crop should be sown in March or April, as directed 
in those months. 

In dry weather, give the bed now and then a moderate 
watering. The plants will be large enough to plant out in about 
six weeks after the seed is sown; but when they have two 
or three leaves, thin and prick out a number fi'om the seed- 
bed four inches distant, that they may attain a proper size 
for final ti'ansplanting. 

Those planted out finally in J une, J uly, and August, will 
produce large heads fit to cut in October, November, or any 
time during the winter, till the following spring. 

Several sorts of borecole are cultivated by the cottagers 
and farmers in the north, particularly the Scotch kale, purple, 
or brown kale, German greens or curlies, all of which are ex- 
tremely hardy. It is greatly to be desired that the peasantry 
of England would cultivate them more generally, as they 
would afibrd an excellent vegetable in winter and spring, 
particularly in those counties where much animal food is eaten. 
They may be planted on gi'ound that has been occupied by 
early crops of peas, potatoes, or such like crops ; or may be 
planted between rows of late peas, scarlet runners, &c., and 
will therefore occupy the ground when these latter crops have 
been removed. 

SOWING AND PLANTING BRUSSELS-SPROUTS. 

The directions for broccoli will apply to the sowing and 
planting of Brussels-sprouts ; the seed may now be sown, or 
the plants pricked out 



May.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



159 



SOWING AND PLANTING SAVOYS. 

Savoys of different sorts may now be both sown or planted, 
as directed for Brussels-sprouts. 

SALSAFY, SCORZONERA, AND SKIRRETS. 

Salsafy, scorzonera, and skirrets, may yet be sown, if not 
done in April ; but sow as early in the month as possible. 

The early crops that are above the ground should be first 
thinned to two inches apart, and about the end of the month, 
or beginning of June, finally to four inches. 

PLANTING ARTICHOKES. 

About the beginning or the middle of this month, artichokes 
for a late crop may be planted. See March, for the method 
of planting them. During the first week or two, let them 
have, if the weather be dry, a plentiful supply of water. The 
heads of these plants will come in late in the season, and will 
continue to yield their produce until the frost destroys them. 



ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus will now be fit to cut for use. 

The shoots of these plants, when they are advanced about 
two or three inches above ground, are fit for gathering while 
the top bud or head remains compact, but which, if per- 
mitted to run, soon becomes open, loose, and of less estimation. 

When proceeding to cut them, be careful to thrust the knife 
down close by the side of the shoots intended to be cut, lest 
you wound or destroy the young buds that are coming up in 
succession, and do not yet appear ; cutting the shoots off slant- 
ing, about three or four inches within the ground. 

Let the beds be now carefully cleaned from weeds : either 
give a careful hand-weeding ; or, with a small hoe, on a dry 
day, cut up all weeds clean within the surface. 



160 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



{Maij. 



Few attempts at blanching the tops of asparagus have been 
made in this country, otherwise than by having an abundance 
of loose earth on the surface, through which they spring ; but 
Lasteyrie informs us {Col. de Machines) that joints of cane are 
placed separately over each stalk in Spain ; and Bauman, of 
Vienna, in a communication to the Horticultural Society, on 
the culture of asparagus in Austria, says, " to give asparagus- 
shoots, growing in the open air, as much length and tenderness 
as possible, there is inserted over each stem destined to be 
gathered, as soon as it shoots above ground, a wooden tube 
or pipe eighteen inches high, and one inch in diameter. (Hort. 
Trans, vol. iii. 34.) We have practised, for the last two years, 
covering a part of the asparagus-beds with rotten tan, or saw- 
dust, which has answered the purpose tolerably well. But as 
this vegetable is not generally preferred in a blanched state, 
this practice is not likely to become general. 

LAYING DOWN WINTER ONIONS. 

Examine the winter crop, and wherever the onions are shoot- 
ing for seed, pick out their heart-buds. Remove all weeds 
fi'om amongst them, and then lay down the crop, which is done 
by bending the stems down flat, just above the bulb. This 
operation may be performed by the hand, but much time is 
saved, by two persons with a pole or the handle of a rake, 
each holding one of the ends, in such a manner as, when 
walking up the alleys, to strike the stems about an inch or two 
above the bulb. This process, which is called " laying over," 
is of great benefit to all crops of onions, as the growth of the 
stem is thereby considerably checked, and the w^hole nourish- 
ment thrown into the bulb. It is particularly beneficial to the 
late crops in bad seasons, for a stop is thereby put to the 
luxuriance of their growth, and are, consequently, in a great 
degree, obliged to ripen. 

GENERAL CROPS OF ONIONS. 

The general crops of onions should, towards the middle or 
end of the month, be cleared from weeds. This operation 



t 




THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



161 



should be performed with a narrow hoe, which will not only 
destroy the weeds, but, by stirring up the surface, will con- 
ti'ibute much to the growth of the crop. At the same time, 
thin out the crop to the distance of from three to four or five 
inches, according to the sorts. 

Where young onions are in constant demand, it will be 
better to reserve a crop unthinned for that purpose, observing 
to thin thom regularly as they are used, leaving a sufficiency 
of the strongest plants for a general crop. The oftener that the 
crops of onions are stirred up with the hoe in dry weather, the 
better will they bulb, particularly in stiff soils, 

TRANSPLANTED ONIONS. 

The onions transplanted last month will require to be gone 
over with the hoe, and the surface stirred among them. Any 
of them that appear shooting into seed should have their heart- 
buds picked out, as has been previously directed for winter- 
onions, that have not been transplanted, 

PRICK OUT AND PLANT CELERY. 

Prick out from the seed-bed some of the celery-plants sown 
in March. Dig for this purpose one or more beds of light 
rich earth, and rake them even ; then draw out of the seed- 
bed some plants in a thinning manner, and prick them into the 
other beds, three to four or five inches distant : give directly a 
moderate watering, and repeat it occasionally till the plants 
get fresh root, and, being thus planted, they are to remain to 
nurse a month, or five or six weeks, to acquire proper strength ; 
then to be transplanted finally into trenches to remain for 
blanching, by earthing up as they advance in gi'owth. Plant 
out the strongest celery-plants of former sowings. Choose a 
sheltered spot, or warm border ; a few need only be planted at 
this time for tfte kitchen use, as they v/ill be apt to ,run to 
seed. The trenches need not be deep, six inches being suffi- 
cient ; if room be scarce, plant between rows of early peas on 
a south border. 

r 



THE PRACTICAL »:JARDENER. 



[May. 



SOWING CELERY. 

Sow celery-seed for a principal latter crop, in the first oi 
second week of the month. Dig a bed of light rich earth, 
and make the surface perfectly even ; then sow the seeds pretty 
thick, and rake them in lightly. 

In hot sunny weather it would prove very beneficial to shade 
the bed every day, from ten to three o'clock, till the plants 
appear. Likewise, let the bed, in di'y weather, be refreshed 
every other evening with a light watering. 

The plants from this sowing will be fit to plant out into 
trenches in July, August, and September, and to take up for 
the table from October till Christmas, and for a spring supply. 

HOEING AND EARTHING UP POTATOES. 

The crops of potatoes, as they advance, should be hoed 
and earthed up. If there be any vacant piece of ground, a 
late crop may be planted, which will succeed nearly as well, as 
if planted in April, but will not keep so well dui'ing the winter. 

SPINACH. 

Spinach may still be sown, where required in continued 
succession, sowing generally the round-leaved sort between 
rows of peas, by which it will be partially shaded fi'om the sun, 
and not run to seed so soon as if sown in an exposed situation. 

In some families, spinach is required in succession all sum- 
mer : in which case, some seed should be sown every twelve 
or fourteen days, as the plants of the summer sowings soon 
run up to seed: sow the seed moderately thin, and rake it 
well into the ground; or sow it in shallow flat drills, from 
six or eight inches to a foot asunder, covering in the seed 
regularly. 

Thin the young spinach of last month's sowing eradicate 
all weeds : and where the plants stand thick, thin them mode- 
rately, especially those produced from the broad-cast sowing. 



May*] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



163 



THINNING THE CROPS OF BEET. 

The crops of beets which are in a forward state will require 
to be thinned about the middle of this month ; this operation 
should, however, be performed gradually; nor should the 
plants be thinned out all at once. In the first place, they 
should be thinned to about two or three inches distant, and to 
five or six in a few weeks afterwards. A showery time should 
be chosen, or the earth should be settled about the plants by 
a liberal watering. The ground should be previously hoed, 
and closed well about their roots. 

LOVE-APPLES. 

Towards the end of the month, if the weather be favorable, 
plant out the love-apple plants reared in the hot-houses. These 
plants are of a trailing rambling habit, and require to be sup- 
ported or trained against a wall or pales. In cold situations, 
they will require a southern exposure to ripen them, and to 
facilitate their ripening, the shoots should be shortened or 
topped, when they have shown a sufficient number of flowers 
and are beginning to set their fruit. All lateral branches 
should be removed, and as the fi'uit begins to ripen, pick off 
some of the leaves, in order to admit the sun to the fruit. In 
dry weather, they will require a plentiful supply of water ; and 
as they are great exhausters of the ground, they should not be 
planted too near to the fruit-trees. In warm situations, they 
will bring their fruit to great perfection if planted on a bed of 
mould, made so as to slope to the sun ; upon this bed, which 
should have a considerable inclination, they may be trained 
and pegged down like cucumber-plants, and, in many instances, 
they will emit roots at their joints, which will materially tend 
to strengthen them. The surface of this bed may be covered 
with plain tiles or slates, which will not only hasten their .ma- 
turity, by increasing the heat on the surface, but also keep the 
fruit clean and free from any earthy particles, which might be 
washed upon them, during the process of watering, heavy rains, 
or the like. In whatever way they are grown, they should 
not be allowed to grow too rambling, for if not pruned, and 



164 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



kept within bounds, they will continue to extend themselves 
till killed by the frosts, and in that way expend that nourish- 
ment, which, by pruning off the superfluous growths, would 
be directed to the formation and maturity of the fruit. The 
whole plant is rather ornamental, but particularly so when in 
fruit; they may, therefore, be planted against the walls of 
houses, or in a favourable situation in the pleasure-ground, 
and in the most unfavourable ones they may be forwarded in 
large pots, and placed in any of the forcing-houses till they 
have fully formed their fruit, when they may be set out m a 
w^arm situation to ripen, or they may even be grown upon 
slight hot-beds, covered with a frame and lights, and trained 
like cucumbers. In unfavourable seasons, the fruit may be 
taken off in clusters, attached to a portion of the branch, 
while yet in an unripe state, and hung up in any of the hot- 
houses, where they will ripen in a few days. 



PLANTING RADISHES FOR SEED. 

The beginning of this month is the proper season for the 
transplantation of radishes for seed, and it should be done 
when the roots have attained their full maturity. The growth 
of them wili be accelerated if the advantage be taken of showery 
weather. 

The roots selected for seed should be long, and perfectly 
straight with short tops, and some attention must be paid 
to the color of the root. If the common red, or short- 
topped radish be the sort selected, the preference should be 
given to those that are of a clear pale red, as they possess the 
properties of crispness and mildness in a greater degree than 
those of a dark red color. If the salmon-radish be selected 
for seed, the palest colored roots should be planted. 

The transplantation of radishes for seed is by no means a 
matter of minor importance, for were they allowed to run to 
seed in their natural bed, that degree of nicety could not be 
observed in the selection of the sorts, which is presented by 
the system of drawing up a number of roots, and choosing only 
those, which possess the proper requisites. 



May.'] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN, 



165 



The roots being selected, proceed to plant them in rows 
two or three feet asunder, and about two feet from each other 
in the row. The situation should be open, and as soon as 
they are planted, a liberal supply of water should be given. 
The seed will be ripe in September. 

The same directions are applicable for turnip-radishes, the 
roots of which should be of an orbicular form, of good color, 
and not of immoderate gi'owth. 

Radish-pods are in much request in most families for pick- 
ling, a sufficient supply can be obtained for that purpose fi'om 
the plants left for seed. Choose the best-formed pods. It is 
of importance to gardeners to save as many of their own seeds 
as the circumstances of their situation will admit of, not alto- 
gether on the score of economy, but for keeping true or un- 
mixed those seeds which are apt to sport into seminal varieties, 
such as the radish, most of the brassica, beets, and some 
others. 

SOWING CARDOONS. 

About the middle or latter end of the month, cardoons may 
be sown. The seed may be either sown where the plants are to 
remain, or on a bed of good earth, and afterwards ti'ansplanted 
into the trenches. A deep light earth is most congenial to 
the gi owth of cardoons, but it must not be of the richest kind. 
The leaves being large, require a considerable space, and are 
often blanched in the same manner as celery. They are chiefly 
used in soups and stews. 

Trenches must be prepared on the same system as for celery, 
either longitudinally or crossways, about four feet from centre 
to centre, of the exact width and depth which a single spit 
will make them ; the earth to be deposited on each side. A 
little compost manure must then be spread at the bottom of the 
trench, and the seeds dropped thinly, in a drill about an inch 
and a half deep, di'awn exactly in the middle. The plants 
Txay be thinned out to about four inches asunder, when they 
have attained a few inches in height, but finally they must be 
thinned out to eight or nine inches. 



166 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mai/. 



GOURDS AND PUMPKINS. 

Those sown on a hot-bed last month will be fit by the latter 
end of this month to be planted out. They may be planted to 
hide any old fence or wall, or on the ground by the sides of 
the walks. There are many curious sorts, some of the smaller 
of which may be introduced into the flower-garden, and trained 
to an upright pole or trellis. 

Gourds are cultivated in the village-gardens of some parts 
of England for culinary purposes. The inhabitants grow them 
on dunghills, and train the shoots to a great length. When 
the fruit is ripe, they cut a hole in one side, and having taken 
out the seeds, fill the vacuum with sliced apples, adding a little 
sugar and spice, and then having baked the whole, eat it with 
butter. This is the melon of the gardeners of former times, 
the true melon being known to them by the name of the 
musk-melon. Gourds are much used on the continent in 
soups, and also stewed and fried in oil and butter. 

VEGETABLE MARROW. 

Vegetable marrow is a species of gourd, the deader of the 
Persians. It is propagated in the same manner as the other 
gourds, and about the end of this month may be planted out 
on a slight hot-bed, and covered with a hand-glass; or the 
seeds may be sown, where the plants are to remain ; place a 
hand-glass over them, and they will come up, when all danger 
of frost is over. Accordingly as the runners extend, peg them 
down, they will strike root, which will greatly strengthen the 
plants. Give plenty of water in dry weather. It is useful 
for culinary purposes in every stage of its growth. 

SALADS. 

Continue to sow and transplant all sorts of lettuces, to admit 
of a succession. Give plenty of water, both to the newly sown 
and also to the transplanted ones. Tie up to blanch the forward 
crops of lettuces, choosing a dry day for that purpose ; a few 
only should be tied up at once ; this, however, must be regulated 
by the quantity required. 



May.\ 



THE CULINAKY GARDEN. 



167 



RADISHES. 

Continue to sow successional crops of radishes: where 
wanted, give plenty of water to keep them growing rapidly ; if 
that be not the case, they become hard, and unfit for use. 

SMALL SALADING. 

Sow small salading once a week or oftener, such as cresses, 
mustard, rape, &c. Sow another crop of Normandy or curled 
cress, it is to be preferred to the common cress, and is very 
useful for garnishing. Prefer a shaded spot for sowing all 
sorts of small salading during this and the two following 
months. When the seeds are sown, which should always be 
in drills, cover them with old mats, kept constantly damp, by 
watering them once or twice a day. These, however, should 
be removed as soon as the seeds begin to vegetate, and hoops 
should be placed over them, upon which the mats may be 
put during the heat of the day, about a foot above the 
ground. 

CAPSICUMS. 

If capsicums were reared last month on a hot-bed, or in pots 
in the forcing-houses, they may now be planted out in a 
sheltered spot under a wall ; give them a supply of water ac- 
cordingly as the state of the weather may demand. 

SOWING TURNIPS. 

This is a favourable time for sowing turnips, and by the 
latter end of J uly they will be sufficiently large for the kitchen. 
They will continue in good condition for a considerable length 
of time. 

The early crops of turnips should always have a warm 
aspect, and the soil should be of the lightest and driest de- 
scription. Sand or gravel, with a proportionate mixture ot 



168 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mai/. 



loam, is the soil best adapted for turnips, for if the land be 
heavy, or excessively rich, a rank taste is imparted to the root, 
and induces it to run too soon to flower. 

The most successful time to sow the seed is in showery 
weather, or immediately after rain ; should it be sown in dry 
or hot weather, a great risk is run of a total loss of the crop. 

A piece of mellow ground should be chosen for this crop, 
and the seed should be sown moderately thin, and equal 
in every part; it would be advisable to sow it while the 
ground is fresh turned up, treading it evenly, and raking it 
regularly. 

In this month the early crops will require to be again thinned, 
but this should be done gradually, and not too many taken 
away at one time. If the seeds have risen very thick, it may 
be proper to thin the broad-cast crops to three or four inches 
square, and those which were drilled to two or three inches in 
line ; at a subsequent period, they should be thinned out to 
nine or ten inches square, and to five or six in line, if it be 
intended that the roots should grow to a proper size. 

The operation of thinning should be performed when the 
rough leaves are about an inch in breadth, or at least before 
they attain a much greater size, as the work can then be 
accomplished with greater expedition and facility. 

CUCUMBERS FOR PICKLING. 

For cucumbers to pickle, see Forcing-Garden, 

SEA-KALE. 

If sea-kale were not sown, nor planted last month, let it 
now be done. For directions, see April. For forcing of it, 
see Forcing-Garden, 

SOWING ENDIVE. 

Endive may now be sown for an early crop ; at the same 
time it must be observed, that the sowings of this month should 



THE CULINARY GARDEN, 



169 



never be d^ipended on for a principal standing crop, as the 
plants are apt to run to seed ; but if this vegetable be required 
at an early period in constant succession, it vrould be advisable 
to sow some seed at intervals during the month ; and when the 
plants of each sowing have attained about three or four inches 
in height, then to select some of the strongest, and prick them 
out at the distance of about a foot. 

The white, and a small portion of the green curled, are the 
most proper sorts to be sown at this time. However, a little 
Batavian, or broad-leaved, may also be sown for variety. 

HERBS, 

Propagate by sowing, cuttings, or dividing the roots, all 
sorts of herbs. For fall directions, see ApriL 

FRENCH OR KIDNEY-BEANS. 

A full crop of kidney-beans may now be planted, as a suc- 
cession to those sown in April, and the most proper kinds for 
this plantation, are the black speckled dwarfs, Battersea and 
Canterbury white dwarfs ; the dun-colored and the large white 
kind may also be sown. 

The drills should be drawn an inch deep, and two feet and a 
half distant, in which the beans are to be placed two or three 
inches apart ; the ground must be drawn evenly over them, and 
the surface raked smooth. 

The scarlet-runner, or any other of the running kinds of 
beans, may also be planted at this time, and as the majority 
of them are very productive, they are exceedingly profitable 
for the service of a family. There is a variety of the scarlet- 
runner that differs from it only in color, the seed and flowers 
being both white, but which in its manner of growth and mode 
of bearing has a perfect resemblance to the scarlet-runner ; nor 
is it less deserving of our esteem in regard to the extent of its 
produce, and the length of time that it continues to yield its 
fruit. 

It may be advisable, also, at thi-s time, to plant the large 
white Dutch runners, they being an excellent bean, and the 

z 



170 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. \May 

pods growing to a considerable length, but they cannot be re- 
commended on the same principle as the scarlet-runner, for 
the length of time in which they yield their produce. 

The drills for all the running or climbing sorts of kidney- 
beans should be at least four feet six inches distant, or a single 
drill may be di'awn at the base of any vacant wall, paling, 
building, &c., and when the plants have attained their double 
leaves, and begin to push their runners, some tall sticks or 
poles should be placed for the plants to climb upon ; or if they 
be planted in a row or drill at the base of a wall, some strong 
packthread, or junk, may be suspended fi'om the top, and 
fastened at the bottom, and the runners will readily twine 
* themselves round it to the height of eight or ten feet ; they 
should then be topped, which will contribute greatly to the 
production of fi'uit on the lower branches. 

For artizans and cottagers, the scarlet-runners are both pro- 
fitable and ornamental for their gardens and cottages. 

THINNING AND CLEANING CARROTS. 

By the end of this month the crops of carrots will be consider- 
ably advanced in their gTowth, and every encouragement should 
be given to promote it; if the early crop have been sown 
broad-cast, it may be thinned out to three inches square ; but 
if sown in lines, it must be thinned to one or two in line. 

The operation of thinning may be done either by the hand 
or hoe, but when the crops are on an extensive scale, hoeing 
is the preferable method, not only as being the most expe- 
ditious, but also, that as it loosens the surface of the ground, 
it tends to promote the vigorous growth of the plants. It^is a 
practice, although founded in error, but too commonly adopted 
by many persons, of thinning the carrots at one particular 
time, and, without observing any regularity in the process ; but 
this should be studiously avoided, for it must be obvious, that 
a partial thinning must be productive of injury to that part 
of the crop, where the thinning has been neglected. Five or 
six inches are the proper distance at which the carrots should 
stand, in order that they may have full liberty to swell at the 
root ; it is, however, recommended never to thin carrots when 



Mai/.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



171 



the weather is dry, but always to take the advantage of showery 
weather ; .should, however, this advantage not present itself, 
it would be advisable to give an immediate watering to the 
crop after the thinning has been completed, for if the drought 
penetrate to the fibres and tap-roots, the carrots become stinted 
in their growth, and their flavor is rank and disagreeable. 

Those crops of carrots which are intended to be drawn gra- 
dually for the table, whilst they are young, should not be 
thinned at first to more than four or five inches distant ; but 
the main crops, that are intended to remain to grow to their 
full size, should be thinned from about six to seven inches 
listant. 

Carrots may still be sown with every prospect of success, 
particularly if the soil be strong and stiff. It is by no means 
bad practice to sow in April, May, and the beginning of June. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CUUNARY GARDEN. 

If the weather in this month prove dry, the growth of 
many esculent plants will be considerably retarded, particu- 
larly the beans and peas which are in flower, the blossoms of 
which fall off before arriving at maturity, and consequently 
are not succeeded by fruit. A certain degree of attention is 
therefore necessary, to give a regular supply of water to the 
growing crops ; at the same time, it must be observed, that in 
promoting the growth of the crops, the weeds are also encou- 
raged, which at this season of the year are very abundant, and 
which, if not timely checked, prove highly detrimental to the 
young crops, by weakening them to that degree, that they 
never afterwards recover their full strength. There is no work 
in the kitchen-garden which, at this time, requires greater 
attention than the eradication of weeds ; many will now begin 
to perfect their seeds, which, being shed on the ground, will 
occasion a considerable degree of labor for several years to 
accomplish their extirpation, independently of the injury which 
is annually done to the crops, by choking them in their growth, 
and exhausting the soil of that nutriment, on which the strength 
and flavor of the vegetables depend. 



172 



THE PRACTICiiL GARDENER. 



We have for many years adopted the practice of going fre- 
que tly over the whole of the kitchen-garden, whether the 
wee s abound or not, and giving it, what may be termed, a 
gen ral hoeing and raking. This method not only destroys 
the weeds in embryo, but it encourages the growing crops, 
and gives the whole a clean and cheerful appearance. For 
this purpose, make choice of a few dry days, the time will 
be Well occupied, and save much trouble at a future period. 

All pieces of vacant ground should now be rough dug, the 
action of the sun upon it will improve it much, and it will 
present a far neater appearance, than if left in the state when 
the crop was removed. 

Every part of the culinary garden should now be kept in a 
neat and well-regulated condition, and a constant attention 
should be paid to the progress of all seeds committed to the 
ground. Those that vegetate freely should be forwarded by 
oeiiig, thinning, and watering, and in those cases where the 

ed has failed, it should be immediately resown; no time 
lould be lost when such circumstances occur; some crops, 
such as beets, onions, parsneps, and some others, may be re- 
stored by transplanting them from those places, where they may 
have come up too thick. The depredation of insects should 
be gi^.arded against as much as possible, until the crops are 
'ather advanced, for after they have formed their rough or 
perfect leaves, few insects attack them, at least not so as to 
3ndanger the crop. 

Co /ering the surface of the gi'ound, between the rows of 
3rops, with litter, moss, tiles, or slates, has a beneficial effect 
at a t' me of severe drought, as it prevents the too rapid pro- 
gi-ess of evaporation. Frequent hoeing to a considerable depth 
has, to a certain extent, the same effect, and either method 
will lessen the labour and expense of watering. When re- 
course is had to watering, it should be applied as late in the 
afte noon as possible, or early in the morning, but never during 
the middle of the day, excepting where a regular system of 
irrigation can be effected, and even then, the water should not 
be allowed to come in contact, cither with the foliage or the 
stems of the plants. When the ground can be kept in a moist 
St te during the warm months of summer, the most luxuriant 
crops may be expected. 



June.^ 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



173 



JUNE. 



PLANTING BEANS. 

Beans, for the last principal crop of the season, may be planted 
about the beginning of the month. The sorts most proper 
for the early crops are also the fittest for the late ones. Plant 
the mazagan-bean for this crop, in an exposed situation; if 
planted under the shade of trees, the plants will be destroyed 
by a small parasitical fungus (Uredo Faba)^ which has a 
rushy appearance, and is very destructive to the late crops of 
beans in shaded situations. 

The beans which are now in blossom should be examined 
and topped, for reasons given in the preceding months. 

Earth up, and otherwise stir the surface of the advancing 
crops, as necessity may require. 

SOWING PEAS. 

Peas for autumn crops should be sown both at the beginning 
and also at the end of the month. If the weather and the 
ground be dry, it will greatly encourage vegetation, if they be 
soaked for a few hours in water before they arc sown, and it 
will tend much to their advantage, if when the drills are drawn, 
a quantity of water be poured into them, so as completely to 
saturate the ground. The sorts for the sowing made at the 
beginning of the month should be the dwarf-marrow, Hotspur's 
dwarf-sugar, Leadman's dwarf, and Spanish dwarf; but the 
best of all peas for this sowing is Knight's marrow-pea, which 
ought to be sown every eight or ten days, from the beginning 
to the end of June. The practice of well watering the drills 
is absolutely necessary to the future success of this pea in par- 
ticular. The seeds should be sown in a single row and not 
thick. If the ground be not naturally deep, it must be made 
so, by drawing up the mould, so as to form a ridge, on the 
top of which the drill should be made for the seed, which after 
l)eing properly watered is ready for. sowing. If dry weather 
at any time set in, t^ is pea will require an abundant supply of 



174 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



\Junem 



water once or twice a week. In this way the plants continue 
gi-een and vigorous, resisting mildew, and yielding fruit till 
killed by the frost. For the last sowing made this month, 
prefer the Charlton and Knight's marrow-pea 

PRICK OUT CAULIFLOWER. 

The cauliflower-plants sown in May for the autumnal crop, 
should be pricked out when sufficiently strong, into a nursery- 
bed of rich earth. Prepare a bed for them in an open situa- 
tion, set the plants about three inches apart, then give them a 
little water to settle the mould about their roots. Shade them 
from the sun occasionally in the middle of the day, till they 
have taken good root. The plants are to remain in this bed 
for four or five weeks to get strength, and then, in July, to 
be planted out where they are to remain. They will produce 
their heads in October and November. It will be necessary to 
prick out a considerable number of them, as from this crop 
the autumn and winter cauliflowers are to be expected. 

Look over the plantations of early cauliflowers, which are 
now coming to perfection, break down some of the large leaves 
over the young heads as they appear ; this will blanch them of 
a fine delicate white colour, and prevent them fi'om getting 
too open, or too advanced towards seeding, and thereby 
rendered unfit for the table. 

Those plants which are coming into flower, and advancing 
in growth, should, in dry weather, have copious supplies of 
water at their roots, two or three times a week ; this will cause 
them to produce large and handsome flower-heads. 

TO SAVE CAULIFLOWER r-EED. 

This is the proper season for the selection of those cauli- 
flowers from which the seed is to be saved. The largest, 
whitest, and closest heads, should be chosen for this purpose. 
They should not be transplanted, but allowed to stand in the 
place where they were originally planted. In July, or early 
in August, they will shoot up into seed-stalks, and in Sep- 
tember the seed will be ripened. 



June.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



175 



Pay particular attention to allow no plants of the brassica 
tribe to come to flower near where the seed-cauliflowers are 
planted, as all the different varieties of cabbages, broccoUs, 
borecoles, savoys, cauliflowers, &c. have all originated from 
one single species, namely, the common white cabbage ( Bras- 
sica oleracia.) This should also be particularly attended to in 
saving the seeds of every other sort or kind, as they are so 
extremely liable to run, or sport into varieties and monstrosi- 
ties. However extraordinary it may appear, that all the varie- 
ties of those useful culinary plants should have one common 
origin in a plant indigenous to many of our sea-shores, yet, 
according to the elaborate enumeration of the brassica family, 
made by Professor Decandolle, we are informed, that there 
are even many more varieties known on the continent, of which 
in this counti-y we are comparatively ignorant. 

PLANTING, EARTHING UP, AND SOWING CABBAGES. 

It will be now proper to sow cabbage again for a successional 
crop, and as the crops advance, they should be hoed and 
earthed up, as they may occasionally require. A few for cole- 
worts may be sown about the middle or the end of the month, 
for the purpose of being planted out about the end of July, or 
the beginning of August, For which, see August. 

In dry seasons, towards the end of June, the cabbage crops 
often become stinted, and covered with aphides to that extent, 
that even if they escape being entirely eaten up, they present 
a loathsome appearance. To obviate this, in a great measure, 
a plentiful supply of water should be given them at their roots, 
and although a superfluity of water is supposed to be injuri- 
ous to the flavor of most vegetables, it does not hold good in 
regard to cabbages, which are not in the least affected by it. 

PLANTING BROCCOLI. 

Plant full crops of broccoli. Choose an open situation, and 
let the ground, if not already in good heart, be well dunged, 
and dug. Take advantage of showery weather for this opera- 
tion, but if the weather be di'y, let the plants have several 



176 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June. 



good waterings at the root. In planting this vegetable, and 
all others of the brassica tribe, prepare a puddle by pouring 
some water into a hole dug expressly for the purpose, and stir 
the mould about, so as to form a puddle of rather a thick con- 
sistency ; then draw the roots of the plants through it two or 
three times, until a sufficient quantity adhere to the roots. If 
the ground be very dry, after the line be set, and a drill drawn 
about three or four inches deep, make a mark along the drill, 
where each plant is to be put ; then pour some water on each 
spot, stirring up the mould at the same time, which will form 
a puddle, into which set the plants. By this means, they will 
resist the effects of drought longer than by any other method. 

Sow more broccoli-seeds about the beginning of the month, 
for late planting, the flowers of which, if they survive the 
winter, will be fit to gather in February and March. 

Prick out more broccoli plants into nursing-beds, from the 
seeds sown in April and May ; if dry weather, give them occa- 
sional waterings. 

LEEKS. 

Leeks may be now transplanted, for which purpose, a num- 
ber of strong plants should be drawn from the seed-bed. The 
long fibres of their roots should be trimmed, as well as the 
straggling tops of their leaves. An open spot of ground 
should be chosen, in which the plants should be pricked out 
in rows about eight or nine inches asunder, and about six 
mches fi'om each other in the row, observing to insert the 
greater part of the shank or neck of the plant into the 
ground. 

In planting, do not press the mould tight about their stems. 
Make the holes large, put in the plants, and let only a little 
mould fall into the holes, merely to cover their fibres. 

BORECOLE. 

The different sorts of greens under this general name 
should be planted out, accordingly as the ground becomes va- 
cant. Plant them between crops of peas, beans, or other 



June.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



177 



such crops, which will be soon off the ground. Give a 
moderate dressing of dung, which will encourage them to 
o-vow to a larxrer size. Plant a considerable number of them, 
they will become very useful in winter, and afford fine sprouts 
the following spring, when vegetables are scarce. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Plant again crops of brussels-sprouts, give water after plant- 
ing, and treat them in other respects as recommended for 
broccoli. 

SAVOYS. 

Plant savoys for successional crops; the directions given 
for broccoli are applicable to the savoy. Or, if ground be 
scarce, they may be planted between rows of early beans, 
peas, or such crops, as are to be soon removed off the ground. 

RED BEET. 

The crops of red beet will now be rapidly advancing. Let 
them be kept clear of weeds. Stir the surface often between 
them, both to destroy the weeds, and to encourage the growth 
of the plants. Care must be taken not to injure the roots 
with the hoe, for if they be cut, they will be useless, 

PRICKING OUT CELERY. 

About the beginning of the month, prick out a number of 
the April sowing. These will be fit to transplant into the 
trenches, for a full crop, by the end of July. If the weather 
be warm and dry, water and shade them for a few days, until 
they have struck root. 

PLANTING OUT CELERY. 

The plants pricked out in May will be fit to transplant into 
the trenches about the middle of the month. A few only 
should be planted at this time, as they are apt to run to seed. 

2 A 



178 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. 

Spinach is a difficult vegetable to keep a regular supply of 
throughout the summer months, as it scarcely comes above the 
ground before it begins to run to seed. An excellent substi- 
tute has been found for it in the New Zealand spinach, Tetra- 
gona expansa. This should be sown in March in pots, and 
placed in a hot-house or hot-bed frame, until it vegetates. 
The seedling plants should be planted off, one plant in each 
pot, of the size commonly called sixties, and kept under the 
shelter of a frame until the beginning of this month, when it 
may be planted out without much chance of its being killed by 
the frost. At this time prepare a bed for the plants, of leaves 
and dung slightly warm ; when a little heat is rising, cover it 
with mould to the thickness of six or eight inches, set the 
plants about three feet apart, protect them with hand-glasses, 
or hoops and mats, for a few nights, until they are properly 
established. In dry weather, give plenty of water to the plants ; 
they will amply repay the trouble, for a few plants well ma- 
naged will supply an ordinary-sized family with an excellent 
substitute for spinach, until destroyed by the frost, by which 
time the common spinach will be again in perfection. In 
gathering the crop, care must be taken not to tread upon the 
young shoots, which are very tender, and liable to be injured. 
The largest leaves should be carefully pinched off, after the 
manner of spinach. 

SCORZONERA, SALSAFY, AND HAMBURG PARSLEY. 

The crops of scorzonera, salsafy, skirrets, and large-rooted 
parsley must now be thinned and cleared from weeds, either 
by the hand or the small hoe. The plants to be thinned out 
to the distance of about six inches. 

CAPSICUMS AND LOVE-APPLES. 

If these were not planted out last month, let it now be 
done ; the capsicums on a warm sheltered border, or at the 
bottom of a wall, and the love-apples on any empty wall or 
pales. 



June.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



179 



CARROTS. 

Now finally thin out the crops of carrots, and clear them 
of weeds ; let the hoe be drawn through them occasionally, it 
will promote their growth. 

PARSNEP. 

The above directions for carrots are equally applicable to 
parsneps, only allow them double the distance. 

EARTHING UP POTATOES. 

Now finally earth up the crops of potatoes, and clear them 
from weeds. They will require no farther attention till fit for 
taking up for use. 

LETTUCES. 

An open spot of ground should now be chosen for the trans- 
plantation of those lettuce-plants, the seed of which was sown 
in April and May : showery weather should be chosen for this 
purpose, for if they be planted when the season is dry, a con- 
siderable risk is run of them ever taking root. It may, how- 
ever, occur at this season of the year, that the advantage of 
showery weather does not present itself, in which case, we 
recommend the adoption of the following method. 

Let some small shallow drills be drawn with a small hoe, 
about a foot asunder, in each of which plant a row of lettuces 
about a foot from each other, giving them, at the same time, 
a liberal supply of water. 

If the weather be very dry, and the sun scorching, cover 
the plants for a few hours every day, fi-om about twelve to three, 
by inverting flower-pots over them. This will shade them, nor 
will it be in the least injurious to them; or they may be 
shaded by placing hoops over them, and in very warm days, 
cover them with mats for a few hours. 

The advantage of planting lettuces in drills arises firom the 
convenience which it presents of supplying them with water 



180 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June, 



move easily, than if they were planted on a level piece of 
ground, independently of the greater length of time that the 
moisture is retained about the roots of the plants. 

Some lettuce-seed may now be sown, for the raising of plants 
to supply the table in July, August, and September. For 
this sowing we recommend the cos, Silesia, the brown Dutch, 
the imperial lettuce, and the great white Dutch cabbage-lettuce. 
Some of these seeds should be sown twice during this month ; 
a moderate crop in the first or second week, and a similar 
sowing towards the latter end of the month. 

We have found from experience, that lettuce sown where 
they are to remain, are not apt to run to seed so soon, as when 
transplanted. Therefore, if there be ground to spare, sow 
broad-cast, but thinly, a considerable piece of border, partially 
shaded, or in an open quarter of the garden, and run the hoe 
occasionally through them, to desti'oy the weeds and refi'esh 
the plants. 

If a quantity of the true brown cos have been sown in 
autumn in an open quarter of the garden, and occasionally 
hoed, they will be found to last longer for use than any that 
have been ti-ansplanted, and sown at the same time, and de- 
cidedly longer than seeds sown early in spring, whether trans- 
planted or not. 

When any sorts of lettuce are to be saved for seed, set 
apart for that purpose, some of the finest formed plants, and 
let them stand two feet apart each way. As they send up 
their flower-stalks, let them be supported with sticks, to 
prevent them from breaking. Where different sorts are to be 
saved, remove each sort to as gi'eat a distance as possible fi'om 
each other. As lettuce-seeds retain their vegetative properties 
for years, it may be as well to save only two or three sorts 
each year, as by this means, they will be less likely to get 
impregnated with other sorts. 

The following is the Hanoverian method of saving lettuce- 
seed. Do not wait till the spike of flowers has ripened all 
the seeds, but cut it over on the first appearance of maturity, 
and lav it on the gi'ound, when all the florets will ripen their 
seeds nearly about the same time. 



June.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



181 



RADISHES. 

Continue to sow radishes of sorts for successional crops. 

SMALL SALADINO. 

Sow cresses, mustard, rape, &c. once a week, if a constant 
supply be wanted. 

WATER-CRESS. 

This excellent salad may be successfully cultivated, particu- 
larly where there is a clear running stream of water. The 
plants can be procured in almost all streams, and should be 
carefully removed, making choice of the youngest. They are 
then to be disposed in rows parallel with the course of the 
stream. In shallow water, the distance need not be more than 
eighteen inches between the rows, but in deep water the dis- 
tance must be greater. They will not grow so freely in a 
muddy bottom, as amongst sand or gravel, neither will their 
taste be so good. It is absolutely necessary to have a constant 
current, as when the water is in a stagnant state, they cease to 
prosper. They are cultivated in water-beds, but they neither 
prosper so well, nor is their flavor so good, as in natural 
streams. No place is better calculated for them than a natural 
stream, and no other culture necessary than keeping a stock of 
stout healthy plants, which can be done with little trouble, by 
filling up the vacancies where any may have died, and keeping 
them clear of rambling aquatic plants, which generally grow 
very luxuriantly. 

PLANTING OUT PICKLING CUCUMBERS. 

About the end of this month, the plants of which the seed was 
sown in the preceding one will now be ready to plant out. For 
this purpose, select a warm situation and a light rich earth. 
They may be planted in patches, three in each, triangularly, each 
plant a foot distant from the other. A yard and a half square 
may be allowed to each patch, taking the centre of each as 



182 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



{June, 



the line of measurement. They may also be planted in one 
line, about two feet asunder; and if more than one line be 
required, let them be drawn five or six feet asunder. The 
plants must be frequently supplied with water, and for a few 
days carefully shaded from the sun. This may be effected by 
turning down large garden-pots upon them, which may be 
gradually removed, that is, in the first instance in the morn- 
ings and evenings, and then entirely. 

If the situation or season be cold, and there be any spare 
lights or fi-ames, it will be advantageous to place them 
over a part of the pickling cucumbers, so as to insure a fine 
crop, and to come in earlier than those on the open ground. 
It is always of importance to choose the warmest spot for the 
cucumber crops, as they will do little or no good if planted 
in an exposed or cold situation. In dry weather, cucumbers 
require frequent and plentiful waterings, and in this respect 
they must be particularly attended to, as they advance in 
growth. 

SOWING CARDOONS. 

If cardoons were not sown last month, let that now be done ; 
for directions, see Mai/, 

ENDIVE. 

The endive sown in May will now be fit to transplant per- 
manently ; an open spot of ground should be chosen for these 
plants, let it be well dug and manured. Put the plants in by 
line about one foot asunder, and let them have some water 
as soon as they are planted. Endive sown in May, or before, 
is apt to run to seed before the plants arrive at any state of 
maturity ; therefore it would not be prudent to plant any great 
number at this time. 

Endive-seed must now be sown for a principal crop, the 
preferable sort for which is the green curled, not only as being 
the best for general use, but also as being able to stand the 
winter better than any other kind. 

Some broad-leaved Batavian endive may be also sown. This 
sort grows very large, and if tied up will cabbage well, and be 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



183 



very white. In hardiness, however, it by no means equals 
the green curled, for tx)wards the latter end of autumn, or the 
beginning of winter, should the season be wet or frosty, it 
soon rots, and the expectations of the grower are wholly frus- 
trated. 

Endive-seed should be sown in an open spot, not too thick, 
and it should be raked in equally, and as regularly as the 
nature of the ground will admit. It would be advisable to 
sow this seed at two different periods during this month, one 
at the commencement, and the other towards the latter end. 
In adhering to this plan, a regular supply of good plants may 
be obtained. 

In regard, however, to the principal autumn and winter 
crop, the seed should be sown, generally speaking, about the 
third or fourth week of the month, for that which is sown 
earlier is very apt to run to seed at the beginning of autumn, 
and before the plants have attained their full maturity. 

TURNIPS. 

A principal crop of turnips should now be sown, about the 
middle of this month, for the autumn and winter use, and 
considerable benefit will be derived in sowing the seed in 
showery or rainy weather, or if the prospect presents itself 
of such weather coming on. Particular care must be taken 
in sowing the seed equally, and immediately afterwards tread 
it down and rake it evenly. 

The crop which was sown in May should now be hoed, 
and the plants thinned out in a regular manner. This work 
should be done when the rough leaves are about an inch broad, 
and if it be performed at this time, it v;ill greatly accelerate 
the growtli of the plants, which should be thinned to about 
nine or ten inches apart. 

TURNIP-FLY. 

This injurious insect has long baffled the ingenuity of both 
agriculturists and gai'deners to devise the means of its destruc- 
tion, and it still continues annually to make its ravages on 



184 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June, 



the turnip-crops sown in the summer months. Mr. Patrick 
Neill, an enthusiastic horticulturist and man of science, says, 
" One of the easiest remedies is to sow thick, and thereby 
ensure a sufficiency of plants, both for the fly and crop." 
Mr. Mean proposes a simple remedy, which is to steep the 
seed in sulphur water, in the proportion of one ounce of 
sulphur to a pint of water ; this quantity will be sufficient for 
three pounds of seed. Mr. Gorrie, in one of his valuable 
communications in the Caledonian Horticultural Memoirs, 
however, found that neither steeping in sulphur-water, nor 
sowing soot, ashes, nor sea-sand in the drills, had any good 
effect ; he at last tried with success, dusting the plants, while 
in their seed-leaf with quick-lime, and he adds, that should 
rain fall before the plants are out of danger fi'om the fly, the 
operation must be repeated. He calculates that a bushel of 
lime is sufficient for an acre of di'illed turnips. Mixing old 
and new seed has been recommended, and successfully prac- 
tised. The old and new seeds to be of equal quantity, and 
then dividing the mixture into two parts, one of which is 
steeped twenty-four hours in water ; by this means, four dif- 
ferent periods of vegetation are procured, and consequently 
four chances present themselves of escaping the fly. 



ASPARAGUS. 

In the cutting of the shoots of asparagus, attend to the 
directions given in the preceding month, but it is advisable to 
terminate the general cutting for the year about the twentieth 
or twenty-fourth of this month, otherwise the roots will be 
considerably weakened, for as long as the produce is cut, the 
roots continue to send up new shoots, although decreasing 
every time in size. Thus, if the cutting be continued late in 
the season, the roots will be thereby considerably exhausted, 
and the produce of the succeeding year proportionably di- 
minished. 

The season of this useful vegetable may be prolonged, if 
attention be paid to the annual making of new beds, and this 
practice possesses this great advantage, that it admits of the 
older beds being destroyed, the cutting of which may be con- 



June.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



185 



unued, as long as any shoots of consequence make their 
appearance. 

Previously to the asparagus running up to seed, the beds 
should be perfectly cleared from weeds, for this operation 
cannot be so effectually accomplished, after the stalks have 
attained a considerable height. 

The young plants which were sown in the spring should 
now be carefully weeded with the hand, but not with the hoe, 
as the latter would endanger the growth of the young buds. 

GENERAL CROPS OF ONIONS. 

At the beginning of this month, the crops of onions should 
be thoroughly cleared, and in those places where the bulbs 
stand too close, they should be regularly thinned, either by 
the hand or the small hoe ; but for extensive crops, the latter 
method is by far the most expeditious. In either method, 
however, particular care must be taken to have the operation 
performed in proper time, for it will be found, that stirring 
and loosening the earth proves highly beneficial to the growth 
of the plants. Regularity should be particularly observed in 
the thinning of this species of crop, leaving the most promising 
plants at a distance of at least three inches asunder, and those 
which are intended for the full crop of larger bulbs, at a dis- 
tance of four or five inches. All weeds should at this time be 
effectually eradicated. 

GATHERING THE CROPS OF WINTER ONIONS. 

About the end of this month, or the beginning of July, the 
crops of onions will be so far advanced towards maturity, as 
to be gathered for winter use, and experience proves that they 
will keep better and longer than those of any other sowing. 
They should be spread out thinly on the ground for a few days 
to dry and harden, and then laid up in the granary or store- 
room, exposed to the influence of the sun and air, until suffi- 
ciently dry. 



2b 



186 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June, 



WHITE AND GREEN BEET. 

The cultivation of the white and green beet is generally 
confined to the use of their leaves, which are used in soups, 
and on some occasion-s are boiled in the manner of spinach. 
When the leaves of the large white beet have attained their 
full size, they are stripped to the mid-rib, which, being in 
itself thick and fleshy, is peeled and stewed, and then eaten 
like asparagus. 

As the leaves of these plants grow to a considerable size, 
they should be allowed ample space to grow ; in thinning them, 
therefwe, a distance of six or eight inches ought to be ob- 
served between every plant, and in other respects, the same 
directions will apply as those, which have been already given 
for the cultivation of the red beet. 

FRENCH OR KIDNEY-BEANS. 

A successional crop of kidney-beans should be planted at 
this time, for which purpose any of the dwarf kinds may be 
chosen. In order, however, to have a regular supply, a crop 
should be planted in the first week, another about the twen- 
tieth, and a third towards the latter part of the month. 

The climbing or running kinds of kidney-beans may also be 
planted at this time, the proper sorts for which are the scarlet 
blossom, the large white kind, and also the white Dutch. If 
for a full crop, they should be planted in the first or second 
week of the month, although they will succeed if sown at a 
later period ; the crops which were planted early in the month 
will begin to bear in July, but in August they will be in full 
bearing. The scarlet-runners will continue in produce until 
October. 

In the planting of the different kinds of kidney beans, espe- 
cial care must be taken to allow each sort a sufficiency of 
room, in order that they may not be stinted in their growth. 
For this purpose, drills should be opened for the running kinds, 
from three and a half to four feet apart, and for the dwarf 
kinds, the drills should be drawn from two to two feet and a 
half distant, and an inch and a half in depth. If the weather 



June.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



187 



be dry, the drills should be well watered before the beans are 
planted, and the earth should then be regularly drawn over 
them. 

All the advancing crops should be cleared from weeds, and 
a little mould drawn to their stems ; this will strengthen the 
plants and accelerate their growth. 

HERBS. 

Propagate sage by cuttings, borage and marigold by seed, 
also savory, thyme, and sweet marjoram by seed, and hyssop 
by cuttings. Prick out the plants of burnet, borage, sorrel, 
clary, marigold, angelica, &c., which have been raised from 
seeds last year. 

Gather mint, balm, and other herbs, towards the end of 
this month for drying, the most proper time for which is when 
the plants are nearly at their frill growth and beginning to 
flower. They must be cut on a di'y day, and those for keeping 
immediately spread, or hung up to di'y in an airy room, out of 
the reach of the sun, and where they may diy gradually, as 
the heat of the sun would affect them too much, and render 
them of little use. All plants, whether for distilling or drying, 
should be gathered when almost arrived at their full growth 
and are beginning to flower ; therefore, if they have not arrived 
at that state of maturity, the cutting should be deferred for a few 
days or weeks longer. 

WATERING CROPS OF CULINARY VEGETABLES. 

Gardeners are at variance in their opinions on the merits of 
watering crops of culinary vegetables, some advocating the 
practice, and others condemning it. If a system of watering 
be once commenced, it should be continued until rendered 
unnecessary by rain, for if it be once begun, and suddenly 
desisted in before rain falls, the crops will be rather injured than 
improved by it. Watering sparingly is of little use, and there- 
fore, if circumstances do not admit of its being prosecuted 
with an unsparing hand, it is better to desist from watering 
altogether. During the hot months of our English summers, 
a liberal supply of water would, no doubt, be beneficial to most 



188 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June. 



crops on the generality of soils, and when circumstances will 
admit of partial irrigation, the crops may be expected to derive 
considerable benefit from it. The gardeners in the vicinity of 
London, who are without doubt the best managers of their 
gi'ound, annually incur great expense in this process, and long 
experience proves to them the important advantages resulting 
from it. Irrigation has, from the earliest ages, been considered 
an important part of field and garden culture, and it may not 
be going too far to suppose that the idea originated fi'om the 
annual overflowings of the Nile. Some crops withstand long 
droughts without sustaining much injury, when once they are 
properly established in the ground, but by far the greater part 
in ordinary cultivation suffer materially from a dry season. 
Mulching, shading, and stirring the soil, are remedies to a 
certain extent, and are performed with much less labor and 
expense than irrigation. The crops of most vegetables, where 
the drill system is practised, can be readily mulched, that is, 
the gi'ound round their roots is covered with substances, which 
prevent too powerful an evaporation, and at the same time 
have a tendency to enrich the soil, consequently to afford a 
considerable degi'ce of nourishment to the crop. Of all sub- 
stances for this purpose, d\\n£r is the best, which if spread in 
the spaces between the drills, will have the most beneficial 
effect. The sweepings of lawns, waste straw, rotten tan, saw- 
dust, &c. will atlbrd shade to the roots, and prevent too great 
evaporation in the soil. Slates, tiles, and boards have been 
recommended, and found to be attended with good effect. 
Smaller crops, such as salads and young seedlings, may be 
readily shaded with mats, supported on hoops, for a few hours 
daily, and the beneficial results will, in most cases, justify the 
plan. Hoeing or stirring the surface frequently, during pro- 
tracted drought, has been proved to have the effect of render- 
ing the soil less impervious to the heat of the sun, thereby 
keeping the soil beneath both cooler and moister, and the 
deeper that this operation is performed, the better will the crops 
be found to stand. This latter mode is also applicable to crops 
sown broad-cast, but in a less degree, as, from the position of 
the plants, the hoe cannot be applied so as to loosen the soil 
to such an extent as in the drill system. 



June.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



189 



WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

Attend to the directions given last month, and now thin all 
crops as they advance. Keep the hoe in full employment in 
every part of the garden. Support with stakes the crops that 
may require it, and water, as far as is practicable, every thing 
that stands in need of it. Destroy insects, eradicate grubs, 
which, at this season, are by far more mischievous in the gar- 
den than any other object. This must be done by picking 
them up where they appear. Destroy slugs by picking, or by 
watering with lime water, or strewing hot lime round the plants : 
the former is the most effectual method. Let every part of the 
garden now assume a neat and clean appearance. Where 
watering is necessary, let it be done from four to six in the 
morning, and fi'om six to nine in the evening. For this labor 
the men should be allowed extra wages, or if it be preferred, 
let them rest in the middle of the day. Tn large gardens, water 
ought to be applied by means of a small fire-engine, worked 
by three or four men ; this will water the quarters of the gar- 
den without treading the ground. One man at the end of the 
pipe will disperse the water regularly, without being obliged 
to tread much upon the ground. At the same time, the wall- 
trees can be well washed, which will be of much importance 
to them, provided that water has not been brought into the 
garden, as recommended in the former part of this work. 

There is no garden so situated, but water might be brought 
to it by some means or other, and those that are indifferently 
supplied with this necessary article, will always be subject to 
many disadvantages, over which the cultivator can have little 
conti'ol. 



190 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



{July, 



JULY. 



SOWING BEANS, 

A few mazagan beans may be sown about the beginning of 
this month. Sow them on a sheltered south border ; if the 
autumn be mild, they may probably produce a few dishes of 
young beans, but if not, the trouble is not great. 

SOWING PEAS. 

In the first week of the month a few of Knight's marrow- 
pea may be sown, or the Charlton or early frame. Give them 
occasional waterings in dry weather. They may afford a few 
peas in autumn, if the weather be mild. Little dependance, 
however, should be placed on this so^\^ng, but the crops of 
Knight's marrow, as directed for last month, will, if properly 
attended to, come in both abundantly, and, in all probability, 
will last until the frost destroys them. 

PLANTING LATE CAULIFLOWERS. 

About the latter end of the month, the cauliflowers which 
were sown in May, and intended for a late crop, and which 
were pricked out the latter end of J une, will now be of a pro- 
per age to plant out permanently ; they may be planted in an 
exposed situation, at not more than eighteen or twenty inches 
square, as the flowers of this crop will not attain to so large a 
size as those of the former crops of the season ; they must, 
however, be planted in a rich soil, in order that they may be 
obtained in the greatest possible perfection, and in the greatest 
abundance. If they be properly stored, according to the 
directions given in October, some excellent cauliflowers may 
be had at Christmas, and even at a later period. They must 
be regularly watered if the weather be dry, and in all other 
respects attend to them, according to the directions given for 
the other crops of cauliflowers. 



July.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN 



191 



PLANTING CABBAGES. 

Prepare ground to plant out full crops of cabbages for au- 
tumn and winter use. Let the ground be well dug, and mode- 
rately dunged. Plant the cabbages in lines, two feet apart, 
and eighteen inches between the plants in the line ; if ground 
be scarce, plant as before directed between rows of peas, 
beans, or such crops as are soon to be cleared off the ground. 
Let a good supply be planted at this time ; if the weather be 
dry, give plenty of water, until they be established in the 
ground. 

TAKING UP THE CROPS OF WINTER ONIONS. 

As the crops of onions which were sown last autumn, and 
were transplanted, as has been already noticed, as well as 
those which were not transplanted, begin to ripen, particular 
attention should be paid to them, and their tops bent down, 
which will hasten their ripening. Those which are already 
ripe should be pulled, and carried to a dry place for a few days 
to dry and harden, before they are removed to the store-house. 
If they have succeeded well in their growth, they will be in 
general large, and should be tied up in bunches or ropes, as 
they are generally called, and hung up for use. 

TRANSPLANT CELERY. 

For this purpose, prepare trenches in order to plant out a 
good crop for autumn and winter use. These trenches are 
often made only one foot wide, and a single row of plants put 
in each. This is a very good method for early crops, such as 
were planted last month, but it is evidently a great w^aste of 
ground. The method we would recommend has been prac- 
tised by us for many years, and is generally adopted by the 
market-gardeners in the vicinity of Edinburgh. Make the 
trenches from four to six feet wide, and one foot deep or more, 
throwing the mould taken out of the trench equally on both 



192 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. IJlll//, 

sides of the trench, taking care to break the mould as finely 
as possible, which will render it fit for the earthing up of the 
crop as it advances. 

Lay a good quantity of rotten dung in the bottom of the 
trench, which dig in to a reasonable depth, or if the ground 
be shallow, and inclined to a gi-avelly bottom, the dung may 
be regularly spread on the bottom of the ti-ench, and an inch 
or two of mould taken from the sides to cover it. In beds 
thus prepared, set the celery plants, which have been trans- 
planted into a nursing-bed the preceding month,. in rows across, 
about one foot apart, and the plants eight inches distant in 
line. When planted, give the whole a good watering. If the 
weather be dry, the beds may be watered as the process of 
planting proceeds, and after all the plants are set, give them 
a good watering to settle the mould about their roots. The 
dung should be from six to nine inches thick, and as rotten 
as can be procured. The great advantage of this method, in- 
dependently of a great saving of ground, is, that if any quarter 
of the garden be fixed upon and cropped with celery, it will 
be, in two years, completely trenched, and manured over to any 
depth that the trenches may be made, by making them the 
second year in the space occupied by the mould between the 
trenches of the preceding season. 

The facility of earthing up the crop is greater by this method 
than by the other. When the plants require to be earthed up, 
take two boards of the same length as the width of the trench, 
and six or eight inches broad ; place the boards between two 
rows of the plants, which can be done by a boy, then place 
them pretty close to the plants, and the space between the 
boards should then be filled up with mould very finely pul- 
verized, by two men, one on each side of the trench. When a 
sufficient quantity of mould is put in, remove the boards, and 
proceed to another space, and so on till the whole be completed. 
We have found from experience that this is the most expeditious 
method, and the same piece of gi'ound will contain more than 
six times the quantity of celery that is generally obtained from 
the single drill or trench system. 

In the Gardeners Magazine for March, 1827, the following 
method of growing celery is recommended by Mr. George 



July.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



195 



Gledstone, at Netherwillon, Northumberland, and he declares 
it to be the result of an experience of thirty years. 

Select a piece of ground in an open situation, if it be level, the 
better. If the celery be grown in single trenches, they ought 
to be five feet apart ; if six feet trenches and planted across, 
leave five feet between. But to proceed with the single trench : 
this must be thrown out three feet wide, and three and a half 
deep, place a stake in the centre at each end of the trench, 
make the bottom level, beat in clay regularly to the thickness 
of six inches ; then lay two courses of stones or bricks length- 
ways of the trench, and parallel to each other, leaving a space 
of one foot six inches between. Each course ought to be 
eight or nine inches thick, and laid in lime-mortar ; the clay 
should be well pointed to the stones, to make all water tight, 
tliis being the only utility the clay and stones are intended for. 

The trenches are now to be filled to the height of the stones, 
with a composition of sti'ong clay loam, common earth, and 
rotten dung, then pour in as much water as the trench will 
hold, making the whole a sort of puddle. It will be advisable 
to lay a slate or flat stone down the centre of each trench, to 
prevent the clay from being injured by any unskilful hand that 
may be employed in taking up the celery, or renewing the 
composition in the trenches. Level down the soil to and over 
the stones, filling the trench in the centre with the above com- 
position to two feet from the bottom ; this places the plants 
fifteen inches above the puddle, and forms a trench one foot 
below the surface, which is an advantage in earthing up the 
plants. 

Where early celery is required, it is advisable to sow a little 
seed in the first or second week in February. Where there is 
the convenience of a vinery, sow it either in boxes or pots, 
giving the plants plenty of air as soon as they vegetate ; plants 
grown in heat are more apt to run to seed than when sown in 
the open ground. As soon as the plants are fit to transplant, 
provide a slight hot-bed, cover the inside of the frame with 
flat stones or slates, laying their edges close to each other, 
then cover the stones or slates with strong fresh loam and rotten 
dung to the depth of four inches. As soon as the soil is warm, 
fill the frame with the youn-.': ])lant> three inches apart each 

2 c 



194 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



way ; observe to take off all the tap-roots, give a little water, 
and put on the lights ; give plenty of air, and when the plants 
are well rooted, take off the lights every mild day, and leave 
plenty of air at nights. When the plants have become tolerably 
strong and hardy, remove the lights altogether, and cover only 
at nights with a mat, watering freely in di-y weather. When 
the plants have reached the height of six or eight inches, they 
ought then to be removed into the trenches : cut the plants out 
in squares, placing them carefully about eight inches apart in 
the trench. When the work is performed by a careful and 
active hand, they will scarcely feel their removal ; their roots 
will reach the puddle in the space of fifteen or twenty days, 
when their growth will be accelerated in a rapid degree. There 
will be a visible change in their external appearance, fi'om an 
ordinary hue to a deep dark green, nearly bordering upon 
black. When the plants have grown to the height of eighteen 
or twenty inches, they will then require a little earthing up, 
but be sure to give a good watering first, and place a little 
water-run sand round each plant, which keeps all clean and 
free from worm-eating and canker. Where a retentive bottom 
is found, this preparation is not necessary ; but to prevent worm- 
eating or canker, when the trenches are prepared in the ordi- 
-.tary way, draw a drill three inches deep, in the centre of 
each crop, fill the drill with sand and plant as usual. 

If a good stock of celery plants be planted in a composi- 
tion as directed above (but not in a hot-bed), upon a piece of 
ground beaten hard to prevent the roots striking deep, you 
may with these plants fill the early celery ti'enches the second 
time in the same year, and one quarter of the dung used in 
the common way will do to renew the trenches after the first 
year. By allowing the plants four inches distance from each 
other in the composition, they will grow strong, and remove 
when twelve or fifteen inches high, and be soon ready to 
earth up. 

BORECOLE. 

The different sorts of greens under this general name should 
be planted, as directed last month. Let every piece of vacant 



July.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 195 

ground, which is not intended for any other crop, or fur ajiy 
operation of improvement, such as trenching, winter-fallow- 
ing, &c., be now filled with the different sorts of greens, sa- 
voys, Brussels-sprouts, and broccolis. Many of the latter sorts 
will probably be destroyed by frost, but should they all survive, 
they will be useful in spring, when vegetables are generally 
scarce. If circumstances will admit of it, make choice of 
different situations for them, in order that the greater proba- 
bility may exist of a considerable number of them surviving 
the winter. Situations which are the least exposed to the full 
action of the morning sun in spring are undoubtedly the best, 
and next to that, a high dry exposed situation, avoiding, if 
possible, those places which are under the shade of trees, as 
the rain dropping fi'om them will keep the crops always damp, 
and the obstruction which they give to the free circulation of 
air will generate a dampness, extremely injurious to vegetables. 

BRUSSELS-SPROUTS. 

Plant successional crops of this useful vegetable. Let the 
ground be well manured, and allow the plants to stand two 
feet apart. Hoe and earth up the crop planted last month, 
which will encourage their growth. 

SAVOYS. 

Plant full crops of savoys at the beginning, and for later 
crops, at the end of the month. In all other respects observe 
the directions given for borecoles. 

SOWING AND PLANTING ENDIVE. 

At the beginning, the middle, and end of the month, endive 
for a full crop may be sown. The green, and white curled are 
very good sorts for general use, but any of the other sorts 
may be sown according to flmcy. They are divided into two 
general divisions, the first are the curled endives with narrow 
leaves, and are by the French called Chicories ; the other 
division comprehends the broad-leaved sorts, commonly called 



190 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[July- 



Batavian endive^ the Scaroles of the French. The Batavian 
sorts are of large size when well gro'sm. That sort called the 
small Batavian is decidedly the best of the Batavians, as it 
blanches with little trouble, and is mild \vithout being bitter. 

About the middle of the month, the endive which \\-as sown 
according to the directions given in June, will be fit to plant 
out. -Vn open spot of light rich earth must be -chosen, which 
must be dug a full spit deep. Then some shallow trenches 
must be fonned with the spade, or large drills made with the 
hoe, about twelve or fifteen mches asunder. The plants are 
to be set in these trenches or drills, about nine or ten inches 
apart, and a moderate watering immediately given to them, 
which must be occasionally repeated until the plants have taken 
fi-esh root. 

The tap-root must be a little shortened before planting, 
as well as the points of the leaves. The reason of plant- 
ing in deep drills, instead of on the plain surface, as is often 
done, is, that the leaves may be blanched with little trouble, 
and the water applied to their roots not be wasted. To have 
endive large, it is absolutely necessary to plant it in ground 
of which one half is nearly composed of rotten manure. 

BLANCHING ENDIVE. 

The blanching of endive is firequently performed in the same 
manner as early cabbages, by tying them up with strands of 
matting. If, however, the plants be carefully earthed up, 
the blanching of the curled kinds will be thereby more easily 
accomplished than by tying up, as they do not come together 
so well in the hearts. On the other hand, the Batavian kinds 
thrive better by being tied up, aiising fi-om the more upright 
manner of their growth. If, however, the plants be set in 
drills, the process of blanching may be facilitated by adopting 
either of the methods according to the option of the grower. 

Another method of blanching endive presents itself, which 
is performed by setting up common roofing tiles over the plants 
in the form of a triangle, and if tiles cannot be procured, large 
slates will have the same effect; but a method attended with 
less trouble is to place some thin boards, about a dozen feet 



July,] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 197 

in length, and nine or ten inches in breadth over the plants, 
and the mould drawn up to their sides so as to keep them in 
a steady position. In several places, however, pots are to be 
procured made for the express purpose of blanching endive, 
and are similar to those used for sea-kale, only rather smaller 
in size. The common garden flower-pot will blanch endive 
well, and the same directions will apply as those which have 
been already given for sea-kale. 

EARTHING UP CARDOONS. 

It is now the proper season to give a final thinning to the 
cardoons which were sown in May, and they should be left at 
a distance of eight or nine inches apart in the row. The 
ground must be hoed amongst them, for the purpose of stirring 
the surface, and also for the eradication of any weeds that may 
be in the ground. A little of the earth which was thrown out 
in the formation of the trenches, may be put to their stems, 
but too much earth must not be put at one time, and the 
greatest care must be taken not to bury their heart-leaves. 
The earthing up must always be done when the ground is di'y, 
and it must be repeated every two or three weeks during the 
summer, for if the plants be allowed to grow to any length 
between the earthings, a considerable difficulty will be expe- 
rienced in performing the operation properly, on account of 
the rapid growth of the plants. 

There is a species of cardoon cultivated in France under 
the name of cardoon of Tours, which is reckoned better than 
the sort cultivated in England. It is of so formidable a nature, 
in consequence of the spines, with which it is thickly covered, 
that great caution is necessary in working amongst them to 
avoid personal injury. A strong leather dress and gloves are 
therefore worn in all operations with this species. It has not 
been }'et introduced into the British gardens, as far as we can 
learn. 

Cardoons sown in June for a full crop, may, about the end 
of the month, be finally thinned out; taking care to earth 
them up as they advance in growth. 



19S 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[July, 



SOWING CARDOONS. 

Cardoons for a late crop may yet be sown ; and it is pro- 
bable they will succeed, if the winter be not severe. A spot 
should be chosen as di'y as possible, and the seed sown as 
directed in May. 

CARROTS. 

About the beginning of this month sow some carrot-seed, to 
raise crops for use in October or November, and if slightly 
protected, they will continue good until the spring. 

ARTICHOKES. 

At this season artichokes will be coming into use, and if it 
be wished to have them of a large size, in order to encourage 
the main head, all the suckers or small heads, which grow out 
from the sides of the stems, should be pruned off. Particular 
care should be taken, immediately after having cut off the 
head of the artichoke, to break the stalk down close to the 
ground. This practice, although disregarded by many as un- 
worthy their notice, is nevertheless of greater consequence than 
is generally imagined ; for if the stalks be suffered to remain, 
they greatly impoverish the roots, and exhaust them to such 
a degree as to injure their future bearing. 

SOWING ONIONS, 

Towards the latter end of the month some onion-seed may 
be sown to stand the winter, for which purpose a spot of rich 
ground should be dug in a sheltered, but not a shaded situa- 
tion. The gi'ound having been divided into beds about four 
feet wide, proceed to sow the seed moderately thick, and rake 
it well ; or the seeds may be sown in drills, according to the 
directions already given for spring crops. About Michaelmas 
the plants will have attained a sufficient degree of strength to 
enable them to sustain the severity of the winter, and in the 
following months of March and April, they will furnish the 
necessary supplies for salads and other culinary purposes. 



Jnhj.\ THE CULINARY GARDEN. IfjO 

When the plants have attained a moderate size, they should 
be carefully weeded, which, if neglected, the weeds will soon 
overtop the plants, and check them in their growth, if not 
wholly destroy them. (See next month.) 

SOWING WELSH ONIONS. 

This is a very hardy sort of onion, and withstands the 
severest frosts. Sow now a small bed of them, and they will 
come in use in the spring. It is a perennial plant, and need 
not be sown every year. A bed, in tolerably good ground, will 
last two or three years, or longer, 

PLANTING LEEKS. 

If a sufficient quantity of leeks were not transplanted last 
month, let it now be done. The ground should be well ma- 
nured, as they will remain upon it till the following spring. 
Leeks are, to use the common expression, a gi'oss feeder, 
therefore the ground cannot be too highly manured for them. 

sow BROCCOLI SEED. 

Broccoli-seed may be sown at this time for a late spring 
crop, and it should be the last sowing of the season. It 
would also be advisable that the seed should be in the ground 
before the tenth, or at the latest, before the fifteenth of the 
month. A bed of rich mellow earth should be chosen for this 
seed, and if the weather be dry, a moderate watering should 
be given. 

About the middle, or the latter end of August, or the begin- 
ning of September, the plants raised from this sowing will be 
sufficiently forward to prick out where they are to remain, and 
in April, or the beginning of May, a supply of small heads 
will be obtained. 

PLANTING BROCCOLI. 

A full crop of broccoli may now be transplanted, for which 
purpose a piece of the richest ground should be dug, ond if it 



200 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[July. 



has been previously well manured, it will prove of consider- 
able benefit to the crop. 

The plants should be set out in rows, allowing at least 
two feet between each row, and about the same distance from 
one another in the row. Immediately that they are planted, 
give them some water, and if the weather should subsequently 
prove dry, the watering should be repeated once every two or 
three days, until the plants have taken root. 

Look carefully over the whole brassica tribe in showery 
weather, and destroy slugs, which otherwise would soon de- 
sti'oy the crops. Much has been said on the destruction of 
slugs, but we have never found a more effectual method than 
that of simply picking them up with the hand. This ought to 
be the first thing done in the mornings, tlie earlier the better, 
and as they are gathered into a flower-pot, let them be carried 
away to a great distance from the garden, and buried ; or, if 
they be thrown into a tub, and a quantity of hot water poured 
over them, they will soon be destroyed. 

Continue to look carefully for a few mornings over ttie crops 
subject to be annoyed by the slugs, and the injury will soon be 
remedied. Lime is sometimes strewed round each plant, but it 
soon loses its alkalescent properties when laid on the damp 
ground, and much sooner when exposed to the dews and rain. 
Lime-water has been recommended, but that is attended with 
more trouble, and less success, than the plan of picking them 
up by the hand, 

FRENCH OR KIDNEY-BEANS. 

Kidney-beans may now be planted for a late crop, for which 
purpose either the running kinds or the dwarfs are the most 
proper. It must, however, be observed, that unless the seed 
be planted before the third week of this month, this crop very 
rarely succeeds, especially if the autumn be unfavorable. 

The situation most proper for this crop, is where it may in 
some degree be sheltered from the severity of the frost, which 
sometimes happens in the mornings of September ; but if the 
weather prove mild, this crop, if regularly and constantly 
gathered as it is produced, will continue to bear until October. 



Jul}/,] Tlir: CULINARY GARDEN 

In the planting of beans at this season, if tne \\eather be 
very hot, and the ground parched, it will be found beneficial 
to soak them in pond or river water for seven or eight hours ; 
putting them into the water in the morning, and immediately 
on taking them out, to plant them. Considerable advantage 
will be derived from watering the drills before the beans be 
planted. 

It must, however, be carefully observed, that the beans 
should not be soaked, excepting under the above-mentioned 
circumstances ; at any other time, it will be found sufficient to 
water the drills well, and then to plant the beans immediately, 
covering them over lightly with earth. 

WINTER-SPINACH. 

Winter-spinach may be now sown, and for this season the 
prickly-seeded kind is the best, as being better able to endure 
the cold rains and frosts than the round-seeded sort. This 
crop, unless in a cold or exposed situation, need not be sown 
until the first or second week in August, (see August) ; and 
even in a warm exposure, it w^ere better to defer it until the 
latter end of that month. 

For this seed a situation should be chosen that has the 
advantage of the winter's sun, and after the ground has been 
well dug, the seed should be sown thinly, in drills, and raked 
in, or the seed may be sown broad-cast, and then afterwards 
raked in regularly. 

It will be found beneficial to sow a little brown Dutch or 
common cabbage-lettuce with the spinach-seed for winter use. 

The ground intended for spinach cannot be too highly ma- 
nured, in fact, it is upon old dunghills that it will grow to its 
largest size. 

As this spinach is intended to stand during the winter, it 
would be advisable to sow two crops, one on ground highly 
manured, and the other on a soil of lesser richness. The 
former will be in high luxuriance for autumn and. early winter 
use, and the latter, being less succulent, will more effectually 
resist the influence of frost, and be in good condition until 
the spring. 

2 D 



202 



THE TRACTICAL Gi^IlDENER. 



{July. 



TURNIPS. 

This month may be considered as the most favorable season 
for the sowing of turnips for autumn and winter use. The 
plants raised from this sowing will be fit to draw in September, 
and will improve in growth from Michaelmas to Christmas, 
and should a moderate winter ensue, they wall continue in 
perfection until the following spring. 

An open situation should be chosen for this seed ; the gi'ound 
well dug, and the seed sown whilst the earth is still fresh ; 
particular care must be taken not to sow it too thick. 

The turnips which were sown in June should now be hoed, 
and this operation should be performed when the weather is 
dry. All weeds should be cut down, and the turnips thinned 
out to about seven or eight inches distant. 

At a season when the turnip-fly is not apprehended, the 
seed may be put into the ground without any preparation; 
but if the seed be sown in the hot weather of summer, it is 
advisable to make use of some cheap preventive of the fly. 
It appears from a trial of Mr. Knight, at the suggestion of 
Sir Humphrey Davy, that lime slaked with urine, and mixed 
with a treble quantity of soot, if sprinkled in with the seed 
at the time of sowing, will pre iect the seeds and germes from 
the ravages of this pernicious insect. This antidote, however, 
cannot be conveniently applied, unless the seed be sown in 
drills. A remedy, still more simple, has been recommended 
by other horticulturists, which consists in merely steeping 
the seed in sulphur-water, in the proportion of an ounce of 
sulphur to a pint of water, w^hich will be sufficient for soaking 
about three pounds of seed. 

In the dry seasons of 1825 and 182G, when few turnips 
were raised in the kingdom, we derived considerable advantage 
by covering the ground with common hurdles, as soon as the 
seed was sown. By this means, the ground was partially 
shaded, at the same time that it was prevented being trodden 
upon by the people during the process of watering. It must, 
however, be observed, that in this case, the ground w^as well 
saturated with water before the seed was sown, a practice 



Juli/.] 



THE CULINyVRY GARDEN. 



whicli, in dry weather, is of the highest importance to every 
crop. The hurdles were allowed to remain on the ground 
until the rough leaves had appeared on the turnips. As a 
proof of the efficacy of this practice, a piece of ground, which 
was sown on the same day and with the same kind of seed, 
but on which the hurdles were not placed, did not produce one 
plant within a yard of each other. 

SOWING COLEWORTS. 

This is the proper time to sow a full crop of coleworts, for 
autumn and winter use, and also for plants to stand until 
the spring, when the savoys and other greens have been con- 
sumed. 

In order to have good colewort plants, sow some of the best 
Yorkshire or sugar-loaf cabbage-seed ; the Battersea and Ant- 
werp kinds may also be sown, but all the kinds of slow-heart- 
ing cabbage should be rejected. Considerable benefit is 
derived from sowing the above seeds, as those plants, whicli 
are not cut in their colewort state may be allowed to stand to 
cabbage. 

If coleworts be wanted for winter use, the seed should be 
sown the last week in June, or at farthest in the first week of 
this month. This sowing will produce plants fit for use in 
November and December ; but if plants be wanted for spring 
use, the third or fourth week of this month is soon enough 
to sow the seed. 

An open spot of ground should be prepared for each sowing, 
and divided into beds of three or four feet in width, in which 
the seed should be sown moderately thick, and raked in 
regularly. In about a week or ten days, the plants will make 
their appearance, and in September will have attained suffi- 
cient strength for transplantation. The plants should be set 
in rows about a foot asunder, and about seven or eight inches 
distant from each other in the rows. 

CUCUMBERS FOR PICKLING, 

The cucumber plants which were sown or planted in the 
natural ground to produce picklers, should be now attended to. 



204 THE TRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jull/, 

The vines will have begun to advance, and should be laid 
out in regular order ; but, at the beginning of the month, it 
will be proper to dig and loosen the ground lightly between 
the holes of the plants, taking care not to go too near to dis- 
turb their roots. In the course of this operation, di'aw some 
earth between and round the stems of the plants in each hole, 
pressing it down gently, with the view of making them spread 
different ways. At the same time, draw the earth up round 
each hole, in order to form a basin to contain the water which 
is given in dry weather, and as the runners of the plants ad- 
vance in growth, lot them be trained out in a regular manner 
and pegged down. This will induce them to push out roots 
at their joints, and thereby impart additional strength and 
vigor to the plants. 

In dry weather, the plants must be liberally supplied with 
water, which, if the season be very hot, should be given every 
evening. 

! GARLICK AND ESCHALOTS. 

The eschalots and garlick which are full grown should now 
be taken up, the proper season for which is known by the 
leaves, which always begin to wither when the bulbs or cloves 
have attained their full size. 

GATHERING SEEDS. 

When the weather is fine, gather the different sorts of seeds 
as they ripen, and immediately that they are collected, spread 
them on a dry place, exposed to a free current of air ; let them 
lie until they be sufficiently hardened, turning them every day, 
then having beaten and cleared them from their husks, and all 
other refuse, store them away in bags or boxes. 

HERBS. 

Plant all the sorts of herbs which have been propagated 
this season, either by cuttings or seeds, accordingly as they 
appear sufficiently strong and well rooted. Also gather flowers 



Julf/.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



205 



of medicinal and other herbs, and when dry, let them be put 
up in bags for use. Those which are in request for drying or 
distilling, as they advance to maturity, should be cut or ga- 
thered, and disposed of in a dry airy room, till they be dis- 
tilled, or otherwise used. 

SALADS. 

Sow and plant successional crops of lettuces. Sow at the 
beginning, middle, and again at the end of the month. These 
sowings will provide lettuces for the months of September and 
October. Thin and transplant all sorts of lettuce fit for that 
purpose ; allow plenty of room, and give occasional supplies of 
water. 

TURNIP-ROOTED RADISH. 

This is the best time of the year to sow the large black 
turnip-rooted radish, for autumn and winter use. There are 
two sorts, generally known by the name of the black and white 
Spanish radish, the former of which is held in the highest 
estimation, and is the most universally cultivated. 

The seed may be sown any time during this month, some in 
the beginning of it for autumn use, and some for the principal 
winter crop, about the middle of it. It should be sown broad- 
cast in an open space of ground that has been just dug, trodden 
down and raked in regularly. 

When the plants have attained some size, they should be 
hoed out to about six or eight inches distant; in September 
and October they will be ready to draw for the table; by 
November they will have attained their full growth, and con- 
tinue in perfection during the whole winter. 

Some small turnip-radish may be also sown for autumn use, 
which should be principally of the white sort, mixing with it a 
small portion of the red. The radishes sown last month should 
now be thinned to about three inches apart. 

SOWING SHORT-TOP AND SALMON RADISHES. 

Short-top and salmon radishes may be sown any time this 
month to draw in August; but for a principal autumn crop to 



SOG THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. \July 

draw in September, some of each sort should be sown in the 
last week of this month. The seed should be sown in an open 
exposure, in ground that has been newly dug. 

SMALL SALADING. 

If a regular supply of small salading be required, some of 
each sort, such as mustard, cresses, &c., should be sown every 
week. 

The seed should be sown on shady borders, in drills, and in 
dry weather should be daily watered, or it will not vegetate 
regularly. If the weather be very sultry, shade the crops 
during the greater part of the day with mats. A mat well 
soaked in water, kept in that state, and thrown over the beds 
when the seeds are sown, and there left until they vegetate, 
will greatly promote their growth ; the mat, however, must be 
removed as soon as the seeds are fully above ground. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

Attend to the directions given last month, as far as regards 
watering, clearing the ground of weeds, and hoeing and earth- 
ing up all crops as they advance. Again give a general hoeing 
to the whole garden, remove all disagreeable objects, destroy 
insects and slugs. Attend to neatness and regularity in every 
part. Let all useless and decaying leaves and stems of vege- 
tables be removed from among the crops, and carry tlicm to 
any piece of ground that is to be immediately dug ; this will 
not only give the garden a neat appearance, but will manure 
the ground on which they are put. The leaves and stems of 
all crops of cabbages, potatoes, carrots, turnips, &c., as they 
are daily gathered for use, are to be carried away to an unoccu- 
pied place and cut off, and as soon as convenient be dug 
into the ground, or carried at once to the compost-yard for 
making vegetable mould. They should not be left carelessly 
on the ground on which they grew, unless they be such roots of 
cabbages or borecoles as may be wanted to produce sprouts for 
a future crop. 



Al/<.r.] TlIF, CULINARY GARDEN. ^07 



AUGUST. 



SOWING CAULIFLOWER. 

Cauliflowers for the early crops of next year are to be sown 
this month at the middle, and again at the end of it. Long 
experience has taught the London market-gardeners to sow 
upon the 21st of the month, but that any one day in particular 
should be chosen, appears ridiculous. If they be sown too 
soon in the month, they are apt to button ; and if too late, thdy 
will not be sufficiently strong to weather the winter. The first 
sowing may be made the end of the second week, and the se- 
cond sowing the middle of the third. Sow on a border of light 
earth, and give water if the state of the weather demand it. 

SOWING SPINACH FOR WINTER AND SPRING USE. 

Spinach should be sown both at the beginning and also at 
the end of this month, to produce a supply during autumn, 
winter, and the spring months, until the spring-sown crops 
come in to succeed it. The prickly-seeded sort is to be pre- 
ferred for this sowing, as being less tender than the round- 
seeded kind, and better calculated to stand the severity of the 
winter. Ground intended for spinach cannot well be too 
highly manured, as the larger and more succulent the herb is, 
the more it is esteemed. Spinach, however, when too strong, 
will not stand the winter so well as that, which is less suc- 
culent. Still, if the weather be mild, such strong crops will 
afford an abundant winter supply. As at this season there will 
be plenty of spare garden-ground, we have found it to be 
good practice to sow a piece of ground, slightly manured, 
with this crop, as a substitute for the other, should it fail 
during the winter. Whichever mode is adopted, it is neces- 
sary to choose a sheltered, but not a shaded situation for it, 
that is, one that is dry and well exposed to the sun. In wet 
soils, ridges may be formed a foot or eighteen inches high, on 



208 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. lAlffr, 

which the seeds should be sown ; tliis will not only preserve 
the spinach, but also act as a winter fallow to the ground. 

SOWING CABBAGE. 

The cabbage, being a biennial, the principal crops are ob- 
tained by sowing the year previous to that in which the crops 
are to be reaped. A nice attention ought to be paid to the 
time of sowing this crop, which is the first or second week in 
August, this time being most conducive to ultimate success. 
Some sow in the end of July, to have plants stronger before the 
approach of winter, but of a crop so forward, many of them, 
and often all, run to seed in the spring ; therefore, be careful 
to make the principal sowing neither sooner than about the 
fifth, nor later than about the twelfth of August. If sown 
sooner, many of the plants would run to seed in spring ; and 
if sown later, they would not acquire sufficient strength before 
winter to enable them to stand severe weather. The sorts to 
be preferred for this sowing are erirly dwarf York, East Ham, 
early emperor, and sugar-loaf, for first crops; and large 
York, large sugar-loaf, Battersea, Penton, Imperial, Antwerp, 
Russian, &c., for secondary spring crops. 

TRANSPLANTING CELERY. 

Celery for a principal crop should be planted both at the 
beginning, middle, and end of the month. Make the trenches 
four or five feet wide, and bury in them a thick coating of 
good moist dung, on which set the plants in rows across the 
oed a foot apart, and five or six inches apart in the line. 
When planted, give frequent and copious supplies of water, 
and if the weather be hot and dry while the operation is 
goin^ on, let them be shaded by mats supported on sticks laid 
across tne trenches. Tne waterings must be continued while 
the dry weather continues, or until the plants be perfectly 
established. Celery, being indigenous to wet moist ditches, 
requires a more than ordinary supply of that element. Earth 
up the early crops as they advance, in doing which, care must 
be taken, at all times, not to let any eart^ fall into tlie hearts 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



S09 



of the plants which would destroy the heart-buds, and cause 
them to push a number of stems, consequently they would be 
rendered wholly useless. This operation should never be 
performed in wet weather, nor in the morning, until the sun 
has absorbed all the moisture from the plants, otherwise the 
stalks would become scabbed, spotted, and be unfit for the 
table. 

PLANTING COLEWORTS. 

If a succession be required, coleworts may still be planted, 
as directed last month. 

SOWING, PLANTING, AND BLANCHING ENDIVE. 

About the middle of the month endive may be sown for a 
late crop. A number of those which were sown last month 
may also be planted out, according to the directions given in 
July (see July). The advancing crops must be cleaned and 
hoed, and if an early crop of endive be required, the blanch- 
ing may be begun either by earthing, tying up with strands of 
matting, or in any other manner as directed in July. In a 
few weeks, it will be fit for use. 

^ SOWING CARROT-SEED. 

Carrot-seed may be sown in a moderate quantity, to rear 
plants to stand through the wmter for spring use. Sow some 
the first week, and again about the end of the month. Choose 
a light dry spot to sow them on. Do not sow too thick, and 
take care to rake in the seed regularly. 

SOWING WINTER ONIONS. 

The most proper time to sow a full crop of winter onions is 
the first or second week in this month ; the ground in which 
they are sown must be dry and rich, for if it be heavy or Met, 
the crop is apt to be thrown out by frosts. It is, however, 
beyond dispute, that this is the most proper time durin?^ the 

E 



^10 ' THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [^^g' 

whole year to sow for a full crop, on land that is very light, for 
m ground of that nature, the crops which are sown in tlie spring 
are apt, in the summer months, to be attacked by maggots, 
and the crop is thereby entirely lost. This, however, is not 
the case with onions sown at this time, as before the heat oi 
the summer sets in, the crops are well grown, and beyond all 
danger. 

The most proper kinds are the Strasburg and Deptford, 
the preference, however, should be given to the former, and in 
order to insure a plentiful supply in the spring, the seed should 
be sown rather thickly, green onions being then in request, 
as well as a stock for transplanting. 

LAYING DOWN THE CROPS OF ONIONS. 

At this time the spring sown crops will be fast approaching 
maturity, and, with the view of forwarding them, and pro- 
moting the swelling of the bulbs, they should be carefully laid, 
according to the directions already given in May. Those 
which are in the most forward state will be fit to be taken up 
by the middle or end of the month, directions for which, see 
September. 

PLANTING OUT SAVOYS. 

Savoys for autumn and winter use should now be planted 
out. In order to have them of a fine size, the gi'ound, if it 
has been previously impoverished, will require a good dressing 
of dung ; but if planted where early potatoes, or such crops 
which have not much exhausted the ground, have been grown, 
they will attain a good size without any further preparation. 
Savoys, and all other sorts of greens, may with propriety be 
j,lanted betv\^een rows of peas, beans, and similar crops, where 
ground is scarce, but in doing so, they should be well dunged. 
Choose the best formed plants, and plant them two feet, or 
two feet and a half apart between the rows, and fifteen or 
eighteen inches distant in the line. 



Aug.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 211 

ARTICHOKES. 

The plantations of artichokes will now be coming into fruit : 
when it is the object to have large heads, all, or the greater 
part of the smaller ones, which issue from the sides, should 
be displaced ; but when the small heads are used for culinary 
purposes, they should be thinned out while they are still 
young. 

Three or four heads are a sufficient crop for plants of a 
middling strength, but those which are very strong and well- 
established may be allowed to produce a greater number. 

Artichokes, in order to produce chard, should, as soon as 
the principal crop is gathered, have their leaves cut over about 
six inches above the ground, and their stems cut as close to 
it as possible. It is to be observed that, to produce chard, the 
plants will be destroyed, therefore a certain portion of the 
stock of plants should be set apart for that purpose, and on 
the supposition that new plantations are made annually to 
a cc'tain extent, the loss of a portion of the oldest plants will 
be in conformity with good practice. 

CUCUMBER PLANTS. — See Forcing-Garden, 

BROCCOLI. 

At the beginning of this month, prepare a piece of ground 
for the reception of a crop of broccoli; for which purpose an 
open spot should be chosen, not shaded by trees, and let the 
ground be well dunged, which will considerably improve the 
crop. 

The plants should be set out in rows about three feet apart, 
and about the same distance, or at least two feet asunder in 
the rows, and immediately after planting them, give to each of 
them a moderate watering if the ground be dry. 

The broccoli-plants which were transplanted last month 
should now have the earth drawn up round their stalks, at the 
same time giving them a liberal watering ; this will strengthen 
tl\cm and forward their growth considerably. 

1 



2V2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



PARSLEY. 

Parsley may be sown this month, for winter and spring use, 
this being the most natural season for sowing biennials. 

SOWING TURNIP-SEED. 

For tlic latest crop, turnips may be sown at the beginning 
and towards the end of this month. The advantage should 
be taken of moist weather, or the seeds will be liable to fail. 

The turnips sown last month should now be hoed and 
(liiiined out, for which operation a dry day should be chosen. 

It is always the better practice to have them properly 
thiimed out before they have grown too large, for which rea- 
son, as soon as the rough leaves appear, it is time to begin to 
thin them, as it can then be done with a greater degree of 
regularity. Thin them to about four or six inches apart. The 
sorts to sow at this time are the yellow Dutch and Aberdeen 
yellow, both excellent of their kind ; a little of tlie Maltese 
yellow may be sown, being a beautiful and excCillent small 
root. In families, where these may be objected to, on account 
of their color, the common round white may be substituted, 
but it is not so good a root for keeping. 

SOWING AMERICAN CRESS. 

About the middle or latter end of the month, black American 
cress may be sown on a warm border, or on be<ls of light dry 
earth, in any situation that is well exposed to the sun. It 
is very hardy, will stand the winter well, and come in for 
use early in the spring. 

SOWING RADISHES. 

Crops for autumn supply should be sown three or four times 
about the end of this month. A dry and rather sheltered 
situation is to be preferred, as has been already observed in 
the )>receding month. The quicker these plants are grown tlic 
more lender and crisp will they prove. When stinted in 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



213 



growth, tlicy become hard, sticky, and entirely unfit for use. 
The expense of the seed is triHing, and the trouble small, 
therefore repeated small sowings are to be preferred to larger 
crops, which would consequently take a longer time in using. 
Any of the kinds may be sown at this time with almost equal 
success. 

SOWING BLACK SPANISH RADISH. 

This excellent and useful winter salad should be sown at 
two or three dillercnt times during this month. As they have 
the property of keeping long after they are full grown, if 
stored in sand or in dry mould, in a sheltered situation, they 
may be sown in considerable quantity. Birds are apt to de- 
stroy the seeds of all tlie radish tribe, therefore precautionary 
measures should be taken to prevent the destruction of these 
crops. 

SOWING SMALL SALADING. 

Chervil may be sown in every respect as directed for Ameri- 
can cress, and will stand during the winter, if not excessively 
severe. 

Cresses, mustard, rape, &c. may also be sown once or twice 
during this month. They will continue longer fit for use 
than during any of the preceding months. Sow rather a large 
border of Normandy or curled cress, at the bottom of a wall 
or pales, it will prove an excellent salad in autumn and winter. 

SOWING LETTUCE FOR SPRING USR. 

Sow on an open border, or in light warm soils in the open 
quarters, a portion of brown cos-lettuce, broad-cast, but thinly, 
to stand tlie winter and to come in use in spring. If the wea- 
ther be not uiuisually severe, they will stand the winter, and 
come in allcr those that have been wintered in frames, or 
under any other shelter, and will not run to seed so soon 
as many of the early spring-sown sorts. 



Sll. THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [^'^"g* 

HERBS. 

Continue to cut or gather all sorts of pot and medicinal 
herbs, as directed in July, according to the season and their 
state of growth. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

Hoe, weed, thin, and stir the surface among all crops ; 
water, shade, and attend to neatness and order ; clear off all 
crops, as soon as they are exhausted, in order that the garden 
may always present a neat and orderly appearance. As slugs 
and other vermin will be now making deplorable ravages among 
crops of young plants, a constant attention is required to sub- 
due them. Those seeds which are ripening should be gathered 
when dry, and after being properly hardened, laid by for use 
in a dry airy seed-room. 

Some seeds retain their vegetative properties better when 
kept in the pods or seed-vessels, until they are to be sown in 
the spring ; these, when perfectly dry, should be hung up in 
bunches in an airy shed out of the reach of frost. Accord- 
ingly as the crops are removed, let the ground be cleared of 
the refuse, either by hoeing and raking, or rather by rough 
digging, which will give the garden a much neater appearance, 
besides very much improve the soil by exposure to the atmo- 
sphere. Where evergreen hedges are attached to the culinary 
garden, this is a proper season for clipping them, and when 
the box edgings require renewing or mending, that may also 
now be done with every prospect of success. 



St'JJi.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 215 



SEPTEMBER. 



PLANTING ENDIVE. 

A small portion of the endive which was sown in August 
may now be planted out for a late crop. A warm border, or 
a sheltered situation, should be chosen for the plants ; the soil 
should be light, and with these advantages, this crop will have 
a good chance of standini? durinc^ the winter. Attend to the 
directions given in June and July for the advancing crops. 

The leaves of the early sown endive may be tied up to 
blanch, observing to perform this operation in dry weather. 
Choose the largest full-sized plants of luxuriant gi'owth and 
foil in the heart. The leaves must be gathered up evenly with 
the hand, and tied a little above the middle of each plant with 
some bass or a small osier twij?. 

BLANCHING AND PLANTING LATE CROPS OF CELERY. 

The crops of celery as they advance should be earthed up as 
previously noticed. As the goodness of this crop depends on 
the attention paid to this part of their culture, it would be 
needless to mention, that the oftencr that they are moulded up, 
the finer and more luxuriant will be the produce. 

Crops to come in daring the latter end of winter and in 
spring should still be planted, the latter of which sJiould be 
set out in single trenches, as being more readily covered during 
severe frosts, and the plants will be less exposed to damp 
during the autumn, and consequently the process of earthing 
them up will be more readily accomplished. 

EAIITIIING UP CARDOONS. 

By the end of this month cardoons will have attained a con- 
siderable height ; the blanching of them should be proceeded 
in accordingly. 



^16 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Sept. 

For that purpose, provide a number of small hay-bands, 
with which their leaves should be tied closely and regularly 
together, for the purpose of enabling the mould to be put up 
round 'each plant. Let the mould be well broken, and lay it 
up about them as high as they are tied. Those earthed up 
now will be fit for use in October, November, and December, 
and for some time afterwards. In severe frost, they should be 
covered with dry litter, according to the directions given for 
celery. 



CAULIFLOWERS. 

The cauliflowers sown in August will now be fit for trans- 
planting into a nursing-bed ; for this purpose, prepare a bed of 
light rich mould, about the size of a common garden-frame, 
on which the young cauliflower-plants should be set, in order 
that, if cold and wet weather set in, the advantage may be 
taken of placing a frame and lights over them. This being 
done, draw from the seed-bed some of the finest of the plants, 
and deprive them of all their decayed or broken leaves. The 
plants which are crooked or black in their stems should be 
rejected. They should be planted in rows about three or four 
inches apart, allowing nearly the same distance between the 
plants in the row. Particular care must be observed not to 
plant them so deep as to bury their hearts, the consequence of 
which would be their total destruction. 

The plants being set out, give them a little water for the 
purpose of settling the earth about the roots, but this operation 
should be performed in a very gentle manner, or otherwise 
the leaves may be broken or the earth washed into their hearts, 
either of which circumstances would prove highly detrimental 
to the plants. 

If the plants be backward in their growth, and small in size, 
it would be advisable to set on the frame and lights, which 
must be continued on for a few days until the plants have 
taken good root. When this has taken place, the glasses 
are again to be taken off", and used only occasionally during the 
following month. Observe that the plants should have a 
shade thrown over them when the sun is very strong, and 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



217 



during the whole of the time that the lights are kept over 
them, air should be admitted to them, to prevent their drawing 
up too slender. 

If any heavy rains come on, it will, under those circum- 
stances, be necessary to put on the lights again, as a shelter 
to the plants. A superabundance of moisture would, at this 
time, be very injurious to the young plants, causing their stalks 
to turn black, and be the means, perhaps, of entirely rotting 
them. 

The plants having remained in the bed for about five or six 
weeks, they should be transplanted where they are to remain 
under shelter during the winter. 

MICHAELMAS CAULIFLOWERS. 

Some of the cauliflower-plants which were set out in the 
month of July for a Michaelmas crop, will, towards the latter 
part of this month, or the beginning of the next, begin to 
show their heads. They should, therefore, be encouraged 
in their growth as much as possible, by drawing the hoe be- 
tween the rows, and drawing the earth up round their stalks. 
They should also be kept clear from weeds. 

If the weather in this month prove dry, dispose the earth 
round each stalk in the form of a basin, into which pour a 
quantity of water; by this means their growth will be so 
accelerated, that their heads will have attained a tolerably large 
size in October and November. 

If at this season any neglect be shewn in watering the plants, 
the consequence will be that the heads will be very diminutive 
in size. 

WINTER SPINACH. 

The crops of this vegetable directed to be sown last month 
should be thinned out as they proceed, and completely kept 
clear of weeds, either by repeated hoeing, or hand-weeding ; 
the former, however, is always to be preferred, as the neces- 
sary stirring of the surface encourages the growth of the plants. 
In wet weather, the latter mode of clearing them should be 

2 F 



218 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



adopted. Crops may still be sown for spring use, and as the 
plants will be smaller than those which were sown last month, 
they will have a better chance of standing the winter. 

ARTICHOKES. 

As the young leaves of artichokes intended for chard, and 
which were put in a state of preparation for that purpose last 
month, advance to the height of a foot or eighteen inches, 
they should be tied together with strings of matting and then 
enveloped with clean straw, and gradually moulded up, as 
practised with cardoons, or the leaves may be carefully held 
together by the hand, and bound round with hay-bands, and 
the mould drawn round them. 

\. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Mushrooms have long been held in estimation in this coun- 
try, and the cultivation of them is not of modern date. The 
early gardeners seem to have cultivated them on ridges of warm 
dung, and no mention is made by any of them of mushrooms 
having been found at any time of the year of natural growth. 

The circumstance of their being so fi'equently found in 
almost all old pastures, in greater or less abundance, cannot, 
however, be supposed to have escaped their observation, and 
it is probable that from such places they procured their spawn. 
Indeed, one old wTiter on the cultivation of mushrooms directs, 
" when the beds are made, and of suitable warmth, look out 
for mushrooms, which will be beginning to appear by this 
time {September) ; when they are of the size of small peas, 
take up the whole mass and remove it to the bed prepared for 
them, taking care not to break the pieces, but as little as pos- 
sible. Plant these pieces among the dung, which cover with 
a little mould, and in a few days they will be fit for use." 
The same end would most probably have been attained, had 
they remained in their original situation. 

How far mushrooms may be considered wholesome, as an 
article of food, may be questioned. Few of the numerous 
family of Agaricus are eaten in this country. In other coun- 



Sept.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



219 



tries, for instance France, they are not so particular, and in 
Russia tliey are eaten almost indiscriminately. 

The edible sorts are considered by Sowerby, in his work on 
English fungi, to be Agaricus campestris, or common field 
mushroom : this species is decidedly the best for all the pur- 
poses of the kitchen. Agaricus violaceiis : this species re- 
quires a deal of boiling, and when properly done and sea- 
soned is very delicious. Agaricus pratensis, Agaricus ^9ro- 
ceruSy Agaricus deliciosus, when well boiled and seasoned, 
have the exact flavor of roasted muscles. Agaricus orcades : 
this species is often met with in old pastures, and always in 
a quantity together. It forms what is vulgarly called the fairy 
rings, on account of their growing in circles, which are not 
always but only sometimes perfect: the vulgar suppose, that 
these circles are traced by fairies in their dances, and some 
writers in the Philosophical Transactions consider them to be 
the effect of lightning. Mr. Cavallo, however, denies that 
lightning is at all connected in their formation. Others have 
supposed them to be formed by ants, which are generally 
found in them in great numbers. If the ground, however, be 
cleared away, to the depth of two inches, the spawn of this 
fungi will be found in abundance, and is of a greyish white 
color. This species may be eaten with safety, either in the 
common way, or made into catsup. Agaricus virgineus, 
Agaricus solitarius, Agaricus lactefiuus, Agaricus cinna- 
momeus : these species when boiled have a pleasant flavor, and 
when fresh have a spicy perfume. Agaricus auraniiacus, and 
Agaricus chantarcllus : of all these sorts, however, it would 
be highly dangerous for any person but the experienced bot- 
anist to collect as food, excepting only the Agaricus cam- 
pestris and Agaricus p>ratensis. 

There are other species of fungi, which are much esteemed 
by epicures, as well as those of the agaric family. The truflle, 
for instance, which is also a native of Great Britain, is sought 
after with much diligence by the truffle-hunters (its cultivation 
not being yet properly understood). Those plants, if they 
deserve that name, (but in strict botanical language they are 
nothing more than a fructification), are found in woods and 
chiefly under ground. 



220 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Unwholesome fungi will also often spring up, even on arti- 
ficial beds in gardens : thus, when the spawn begins to run, a 
spurious brood often precedes a crop of genuine mushrooms. 
Great caution is, therefore, to be observed in the gathering oi 
them ; and even the edible garden mushroom, Agaricus cam' 
pestris, when grown in certain places possesses deleterious 
qualities. 

Mushrooms growing in woods, or by the sides of hedges, 
are seldom safe. Those growing in open old pastures should 
be preferred, and from such situations the mushrooms are sup- 
posed to be much more delicate in flavor, and more tender in 
flesh than those which are even gi'own on artificial beds. 
Young or button mushrooms grown on beds are, however, 
firmer and better for pickling, than those of the same size, 
growing naturally. In using cultivated mushrooms, there is 
evidently less risk in having the deleterious kinds intermixed, 
as the persons employed in cultivating them arc more correct 
in their judgement between the wholesome and the deleterious 
sorts. 

Accidents so frequently occur from eating spurious sorts of 
mushrooms, that the following extract from the Botanist's 
Companion may be useful and not devoid of interest. 

" All fungi should be used with great caution, for even the 
champignon and edible garden mushrooms possess deleterious 
qualities when grown in certain places. All the edible species 
should be thoroughly masticated before taken into the stomach, 
as this greatly lessens the effects of poisons. When accidents 
of this sort happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, 
and then the vegetable acids should be given, either vinegar, 
lemon-juice, or that of apples ; after which, give ether and 
antispasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive bilious vomiting. 
Infusions of gall-nut, oak-bark, and Peruvian bark, are re- 
commended as capable of neutralizing the poisonous principle 
of mushrooms. It is, however, the safest way not to eat any 
of the good but less common sorts, until they have been soaked 
in vinegar. Spirits of wine and vinegar extract some part of 
their poison ; and tannin matter decomposes the greatest part 
of it." 



Sept.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 22\ 

CULTIVATION OF MUSHROOMS. 

That mushrooms are produced by seed is beyond all doubt, 
and, although exceedingly minute, it is proved by microscopic 
examination to be produced in astonishing quantities, and 
placed between the gills. Thin plates of talc have been placed 
under a large mushroom by Knight, as detailed in the Horti- 
cultural Transactions, at the period when the minute globular 
bodies, which are supposed to be the seeds, first begin to be 
disengaged from the gills, and the numbers which fell in a 
given period, within the narrow field of a very powerful lens, 
amounted, according to the nearest and lowest calculation that 
could be made, to two hundred and fifty millions of seeds, 
from one mushroom, in ninety-six hours. These seeds were 
mixed with unfcrmented horse-dung, and produced plenty of 
spawn. A great portion of these minute seeds is, probably, 
abortive, and, when ripe, are disengaged from the parent 
plant, and caiTied in all directions by the wind, or other ef- 
fective causes, and falling upon bodies not congenial to their 
natures, many remain in a dormant state, or soon lose altoge- 
ther their vegetative properties. 

This seems to be the general case with the seeds of cryp- 
togamous plants ; the air at times must be replete with these 
minute bodies, which are blown about in all directions, and 
falling on all objects, vegetate in particular seasons on certain 
bodies and in certain situations, so that no space is left in the 
whole universe, that is not productive of the works of nature. 
Those seeds of mushroom, which may have fallen on matter 
congenial with their nature, make their appearance in due 
time, when put into a state of active vegetation by a genial 
temperature, and a proper degi*ee of moisture. The dung of 
some animals seems to be the proper nidus for the reception of 
their seeds. That of horses is found to preserve them in a 
greater quantity, and with gi'eater certainty, than any other. 
" Hence it would appear," says Nicol, " that their stomachs 
have less power to hurt or to destroy the vegetable quality of 
these seeds, which being collected along with their food, must 
pass through their intestines, than that of other animals ; or 
perhaps the dung of horses is a better nidus for the seeds than 



222 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Scj^f. 

Other dungs. The food of horses, consisting mostly of corn 
and hay, may, no doubt, be more replete with the seeds of 
mushrooms than that of cows and other stock, whose food con- 
sists chiefly of green vegetables ; but even the droppings ol 
horses while at grass, or feeding on tares, produce few or no 
mushrooms. This fact would seem to prove, either that the 
seeds are collected in gi-eater quantities, and are better pre- 
served by hay, or the straw and chaff of oats, than by green 
food; or, that green food may have the effect of destroying 
them by its moistness in the stomach, or after having passed 
through it." 

Having thus entered into some detail on the seed of mush- 
rooms, the next and most important consideration to the gar- 
dener is, the manner in which to make or procure the spawn. 
Spawn is defined by Abercrombie, Neill, and others, to be a 
white fibrous substance, resembling broken threads, and is 
found running in dry reduced dung, or any other nidus favor- 
able to its existence. These threads, when put in action in a 
favorable situation, produce small tubercles, attached to them 
by lateral threads, in the manner of potatoes. Spawn of the 
true Agaricus campestris, or eatable mushroom, smells 
exactly like that of the mushroom, and this is the test gener- 
ally applied by gardeners to ascertain its genuineness. 

Spa\vii is often purchased by gardeners from nursery-men, 
who, to supply their demands, make annually a great quan- 
tity of it. It is sold in the shape of bricks, and varies in 
price, according to the demand, and other circumstances. 

Indigenous spawn may be collected in September in old 
pasture lands. It is often also found in the path of a bark- 
mill worked by horses, or in any other horse-mill track under 
shelter ; in temporary sheds, in which horses are fed and take 
occasional shelter in winter, and in diy dung-heaps, and in 
old hot-beds. Having found the pieces of dung which contain 
the desired spawn, take them up as entire as possible, and lay 
them carefully in a basket, or any other conveyance; these 
are to be stored till used in any dry convenient place, and 
if they be found in a damp state, they should be dried before 
they are laid together in a mass. The dry spawn may be pre- 
served for years ; but to preserve it from running or perishing 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



225 



before it be planted, it is absolutely necessary to keep it in 
a dry place, through which there is a current of air. 

Artificial spawn may be procured by the following process, 
y'hich has been recommended by a successful cultivator of 
mushrooms, in the Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural 
Society. 

In the month of March, when the cattle are fed principally 
on dry food, collect two parts of cow-dung, one part of sheep, 
and one of horse-dung, dry them well, and break them into 
small pieces. 

When well mixed together, lay them up in a round heap, 
finishing the top into a point. Let the heap be well trodden 
whilst it is building, which will prevent it from heating too 
much. This operation must be carried on in a dry place, in 
some shade or old house. Thrust a stick into the heap when 
finished, and by drawing it out at any time, the heat can be 
ascertained. If, upon examining the stick, it feels slightly 
warm, then the heat is going on w^ell. Care must be taken 
in this particular, for in the whole culture of mushrooms by 
this, or any other means, they are equally impatient of either 
too much heat, moisture, or cold. The best temperature for 
them seems to be from 55 to 60 degrees of Fahrenheit. When 
the heap is in a slight state of fermentation, cover it about 
four or six inches with straws If the operation be carried on 
in a warm shed, then a single old bass-mat will be sufficient, 
but this must be regulated by the state of fermentation in the 
heap. 

When the heap has been a month or five weeks in this state, 
examine it, by thrusting in the hand to the middle of the heap, 
and if the spawn have begun to run, it may be distinguished 
by the appearance of many small white fibres or threads run- 
ning through the dung, and this is the real spawn. If there 
be no appearance of spawn, cover the heap up again, and add 
two or three inches of droppings fresh from the stable. This 
when again covered over, as at first, will set the whole in 
moderate fermentation, and at the end of another four weeks, 
the whole will be a mass of spawn, provided that the ferment- 
ation has not been allowed to exceed the temperature above 
stated. Sometimrs it will make its nppoarancc sooner, and by 



224 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Sepl, 

this means excellent spawn is procured. Spawn, procured in 
this manner, should be used soon after making, as it will lose 
its strength by long keeping. 

Artificial spawn may also be procured by collecting the 
droppings of horses fresh from the stable,, and after being 
partly dried, may be put up in any dry corner of a shed, 
mixed with a small portion of light sandy earth, that is quite 
dry. If this remain undisturbed for two or three months, the 
whole mass will be full of spawn. 

In this case, also, fermentation must not be allowed to 
exceed the points noticed in the before-mentioned method. 

Spawn, once obtained in small quantities, may be propa- 
gated or preserved at pleasure. The general method of pre- 
serving and propagating spawn is to transplant it, if we may 
so express ourselves, into bricks composed of certain mate- 
rials, of which the dung of horses constitutes the principal 
part. Take any quantity of horse-droppings fresh from the 
stables, to which add about one-third cows'-dung, and a small 
portion of light sandy earth, or road-scrapings. Mix the 
whole together by adding such a portion of water, as will 
allow the whole to be formed into a thick sort of mortar. 
This being done, spread the mixture on the floor of a shed 
about four inches thick, let it remain in that state for a day or 
two, according to circumstances, to dry, and when it is suffi- 
ciently dry, let it be cut into pieces about the size of common 
building bricks. When these bricks are sufficiently dry to 
remove without breaking, carry them to an airy place, where 
they may diy sooner. For this purpose, place them on thin 
boards, they can then be moved about with greater ease. 
When the bricks are about half dry, perforate each in two or 
three places about half-way through, in which holes, place a 
small piece of spawn in each. Turn them frequently over to 
promote their drying. When perfectly dry, prepare a quan- 
tity of well-fermented dung ; place a layer of it, six inches 
thick, on any part of the shed-floor ; upon this dung, pile all 
the spawn-bricks in regular order, keeping the sides perforated 
uppermost, to prevent the pieces of spawn from falling out. 
Build the pile as open as possible, and let the whole termi- 
nate in a point, or single course of bricks. Take the remain- 



Sc2)t.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 225 

cicr of the fermented dung, and cover the whole pile with it ; 
it will dilhisc a gentle heat through the whole. The spawn 
will soon run through the bricks, and when this is observed, 
let the bricks be laid by in a dry place till used. They will 
keep fit for use for a number of years. It is of much import- 
ance that the bricks should not be left in a situation which 
would cause the spawn to work; an effect, which would be 
produced by m(/isture, combined with warmth. The spawn 
must not be sutlered to advance towards the rudiments of the 
mushroom, which consists of little threads or fibres, for in this 
state, it ceases to be of use in spawning a bed. A piece of 
spawn, which ai)pears in filaments or fibres, is no longer of 
use to put in a umshroom-bed, it may produce a mushroom in 
itself, but can serve no other purpose. The spawn, that is to 
be inserted in a bed, and to receive its development there, 
must not be so far advanced, but should only have the appear- 
ance of white mould. 



MAKING MUSHROOM BEDS. 

The spawn being procured, the next consideration is, to 
make ready a bed on which to plant it. Many plans have 
been adopted for the cultivation of mushrooms on beds, which 
have been attended with gi'eater or less success ; the general 
methods practised by gardeners, who grow a considerable 
quantity for the London market, are perhaps the oldest, and 
at the same time the best. These beds are made in the open 
air, in some convenient spot, and are in the form of a ridge, 
or triangle, the base of which is generally the longest side. In 
gardens, where neatness and regularity are attended to, the 
melon-ground will be found the best situation. 

For winter-crops, beds may be made in any spare shed, or 
old building; and it may here be observed, that, although 
September is the month generally chosen for putting up nuish- 
loom-bcds, they may be made with success almost at any 
other time of the year. When beds are made in 'sheds, they 
are apt to get too dry in summer ; in the open ground, the 
humidity of the air keeps them in a state sufficiently damp, 
without the necessity of often giving them water, which is a 

2 G 



326 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Sept. 

j 

very deiicate point in their culture. If it were possible to 
keep them sufficiently damp, by covering them from the sun 
and winds, and exposing them to very slight showers, or rather 
heavy dews, it would be desirable, as watering, however care- 
fully done, is apt to run upon the surface, and render some 
parts of the beds too damp, while others are too dry. 

The principal objection to beds made in the open air is, that 
they are troublesome to cover, and to protect from frost and 
wet ; but beds made in sheds also require often to be covered 
in the same manner. 

The advantages they possess, on the other hand, is import- 
ant, as the mushrooms produced on ridges are considered, in 
Covent-Garden market, as decidedly superior to those grown 
on shelves or boxes in houses, being both more heavy and 
juicy, and always bring the highest price. 

About a fortnight or three weeks before the beds are to be 
put up, provide a quantity of fresh horse-dung ; let it be well 
shaken and mixed, and put up in a heap to purge it of its 
firy heat ; let it be turned over once a week, or oftener, and 
at each turning, well mixed, so that every part of the dung 
may be equally fermented, and deprived of its noxious quality. 
When the dung is in a fit state to be made into a bed, let the 
bottom be marked out, about seven feet wide, and as long as 
it is judged necessary, for the quantity of mushrooms required; 
let the foundation on which it is made be dry, or rendered so ; 
let the dung be worked up in a sloping manner, so as to ter- 
minate with a narrow roof-shaped ridge along the centre, 
about four or five feet high, beat it well down, as the process 
of building goes on. Beds made in the open sheds are con- 
structed exactly in the same way. 

When the bed has been made some time, and the heat 
sufficiently declined, the spawn may be put into it : but, for 
fear of the heat being too great in the upper part of it, the 
better plan is to spawn it at first only half-way up all round. 
Break the spawn in small pieces, and stick them into the sides 
of the bed, in rows about six inclies, piece from piece. When 
the bed is spawned as high up, as it is thought the heat of 
the bed will not injure it, take some good strong rich earth, 
the stronger the better, but of a loamy quality, and cover the 



Sept.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



spawned part of the bed with it, about two inches thick, be- 
ginning at the bottom of the bed. The earth should be in a ' 
phable state: not too wet, nor over dry. When the heat 
appears to have sufficiently dechned, proceed to spawn, and 
earth the top of the bed in the same manner. Or, if it be 
thought that the bed is not sufficiently fermented, spawn it a 
few days before, or even a week or more before the mould be 
put on it. 

After all fermentation has stopped, and on the approach of 
wet or cold weather, the beds should be covered sufficiently 
with clean straw, and over that, bass or reed mats should be 
placed ; the latter will have the effect of completely throwing 
off the rain. Care must be taken that, after this covering is 
put on, they do not heat a second time, which is very liable 
to take place, as the remaining heat and steam will be pre- 
vented from escaping, and were that circumstance to happen 
to any considerable extent, the spawn would run a great risk 
of being completely destroyed. This covering must be occa- 
sionally removed, at least so far as to admit of the beds being 
examined, at least once a w^ek, for the first few weeks after 
being covered. Little injury can be apprehended, at any sub- 
sequent period, from too much heat. Beds constructed in this 
manner sometimes lose their heat too soon, and when that is 
the case, the mushrooms will be small, the beds unproductive, 
and sometimes the mushrooms will not appear at all. On this 
effect being perceived, the covering should be entirely re- 
moved, and a coating of well-fermented stable-dung applied 
over them to the thickness of a foot or more, according to the 
season, and the quality of the dung ; this will throw a genial 
warmth into the bed, and will set the spawn in action. This 
being accomplished, the whole may be removed, and the beds 
covered up as before. 

The length of time that elapses between making the beds 
and producing the mushrooms, depends upon a variety of cir- 
cumstances, such as the state of the weather, the quality of 
the spawn, and the like. Generally, they begin to produce 
in a month or six weeks after being put up, and continue to 
produce for ten or twelve weeks, and often for a considerable 
time longer. The process of gathering the crop is to uncover 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Srpf. 



tlie beds carefully, and cut tlie mushrooms up by the bottom, 
taking care not to displace nor injure the young ones which 
are coming up close to them. As far as can be with safety 
accomplished, the old stumps or root-part should be removed, 
having a tendency, when left in the beds, to produce decay, 
damp, and maggots. The larger mushrooms are used for a 
variety of purposes, but the smaller or button ones are most 
esteemed in cookery. 

Mr. Napoleon Bauman, Jun., of Bollweller, in the Upper 
Rhine, has, in a letter addressed to the Editor of the Garden- 
ers' Magazine, transmitted to him an account of a very simple 
and economical method of growing mushrooms, which will be 
understood by a glance at the accompanying sketch, where the 
mushrooms are represented rising through a stratum of earth (<-/) ; 




which, with a substratum of dung, occupies the entire floor of 
the house {b). The pathway (c) is supported from the floor by 
the posts which are rendered necessary at any rate for support- 
ing the front shelf (c/), and the shelves of the stage (eee). 
Vines may be trained upon the rafters, and there may or may 
not be a small shelf or a bracket here and there for drooping 
plants (/). In the vicinity of Vienna, houses in which mush- 



Sept.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 220 

rooms arc grown in this way are chiefly employed for prolong- 
ing the bloom of forced shrubs and flowers, such as roses, 
lilacs, bulbs, &c. The pots are set in saucers, to prevent any 
water di-opping on the mushrooms, and six inches of hay are 
spread over the latter to keep them clean, and prevent the 
, escape of heat. The glass is covered by shutters every night, 
and the floor of the house is from three to four feet under the 
external surface, which with the covering of hay is a great 
protection to the bed in which the mushrooms are grown. 

The bed is made of fresh horse-droppings, strongly pressed, 
and after it has lain eight days, it is covered with an inch of 
good earth beaten to a firm state, and the spawn planted in it 
in little bits about nine inches apart every way. 

For growing mushrooms in flued houses, see Forcing- 
Garden. 

Mushrooms may also be successfully cultivated in boxes, 
pots, or hampers, or indeed in any thing capable of keeping 
the materials together, and placed in any dry warm cellar, 
stable, or shed, where they can be defended from damp and 
frost. The practice of Mr. W. Wales, as given in the Me- 
moirs of the Caledonian Horticultural Society, and referred to 
before, is as follows : " The boxes or vessels are placed in the 
back sheds of the hot-houses, or in any other house where no 
damp nor frost can enter. There should be several boxes, 
a part only being filled at a time, so as to keep a rotation of 
crop, and to have mushrooms at all times ready for the table. 
Suppose three boxes to be filled at a time, each of which is 
three feet long, one and a half broad, and seven inches in 
depth ; then let each box be half filled with horse-dung ^ drop- 
pings' from the stables, the fresher the better, and if wet, to 
be dried for three or four days before it be put in the boxes, 
the dung to be well beaten down in the boxes. After the 
second or third day, if any heat has arisen in the dung, it is 
then a fit time to spawn ; break each spawn-brick into three 
parts, as equal in size as possible, then lay the pieces about 
four inches apart upon the surface of the dung in the box, on 
which they are to lie for six days, when it will probably be 
found that the side of the spawn next to the dung has begun 
to run in the dung below ; then add an inch and a half more 



230 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Sept. 



of fresh dung upon the top of the spawn in the box, and beat 
it down as before-mentioned. In the course of a fortnight, 
the box will be ready to receive the mould on the top ; this 
mould must be two inches and a half deep, well beaten down 
with the back of a spade, and the surface made quite even. 
But before the box be earthed over, it will be proper to take 
up a little of the dung as far down as almost the bottom of tlie 
box, in order to ascertain if the spawn has run through the 
dung, if that has not taken place, let the box stand unearthed 
for some days longer, for were it to be earthed over before the 
spawn had run through the dung, the crop would be very 
scanty. In the space of hve or six weeks, the mushrooms 
will begin to come up ; if then the mould seem dry, give a 
gentle watering, the water being slightly heated before its 
application. This watering will make the mushrooms start 
freely, and render them of a large size. The boxes will con- 
tinue to produce for six weeks, and sometimes for two months, 
if duly attended to, by giving a little water when dry, for they 
need neither light nor air." 

This opinion is in unison with that of Nicol, Abercrombie, 
and most authors on gardening, but as mushrooms are pro- 
duced naturally above ground, where they enjoy a sufficiency 
of both light and air, it is probable, that both contribute mate- 
rially, in some way or other, to their perfection. If cut as 
button-mushrooms, each box will yield from twenty-four to 
forty-eight English pints, according to the season and other 
favorable circumstances. 

The plan above described is preferred for yielding a number 
of mushrooms, and also where a great many are required, but 
their flavor is best when reared without dung. They are not 
then to be distinguished from those which grow naturally in 
the fields; but few are comparatively produced in this way. 
" I have," he adds, " lately found it very useful to add to 
every three barrow-loads of horse-dung, one of perfectly dry 
cow-dung, beaten down to powder as it were, and well mixed 
amongst the horse-dung, after the horse-dung has lain under 
cover for four or five days to dry." This addition of cow-dung 
was made in consequence of the effect it has to dry up tlie 
superabimdant moisture in tlie horse-dung, and to render th.c 



Sept.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



231 



compost in the boxes more compact, as the closer the whole 
is pressed together, the better the spawn will run. 

The same cultivator details his process of growing mush- 
rooms in boxes without dung in the same memoirs, as follows : 
*' Take a little straw, and lay it carefully in the bottom of 
the mushroom-box, about an inch thick or rather more. Then 
take some of the spawn-bricks and break them down, each 
brick into about ten pieces, and lay the fragments upon the 
straw as close to each other as they will Ke. Cover them up 
with mould three and a half inches deep, and well pressed 
down. When the surface appears dry, give a little tepid 
water, as directed for the last way of rearing them, but this 
method requires about double the quantity of water of the 
former, owing to having no moisture in the bottom, while the 
other has the dung. The mushrooms will begin to start in a 
month or five weeks, sometimes sooner, sometimes later, ac- 
cording to the heat of the place where the boxes are situated. 
They do not rise so thick, nor of so large a size, nor do they 
continue to be produced so long as in the other plan with 
dung." 

The Rev. W. Williamson, in Hort. Trans., spawns his 
melon-beds over after the violent heat has subsided, and ob- 
tains a crop of mushrooms in autumn. The essence of that 
paper is as follows: — The spawn is introduced upon the sur- 
face of the bed, and on the side of the hills, as soon as the 
violent heat is over; the whole process of the culture of the 
melons is, as if there were no spawn in the beds. The mould is 
laid on the usual thickness, and, as usual, of a strong loamy 
nature, and well beaten or trodden when put in. The spawn 
remains to run or extend itself all over the bed till autumn, 
when the melon crop is over. The surface of the bed is cleared 
of the vines and weeds, and the glasses put on and kept close ; 
when the mould appears dry, water is frequently, but mode- 
rately applied, and the bed is exposed to fine warm showers. 
The watering and shutting up produces a slight fermentation 
in the old materials of the bed, and this slight heat tends to 
the production of mushrooms in abundance. When the cold- 
ness of tlie season prevents the gi'owth of mushrooms, the 
frame and lights are kept on till spring, when they are re- 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Sept. 



movedj and the bed covered with straw. The genial showers 
of spring cause the mushrooms to be produced again in con- 
siderable quantities, until the droughts of summer render it 
difficult to keep the bed sufficiently moist for their production. 
Sometimes the beds are allowed to remain undisturbed, and in 
such cases, produce crops the second autumn ; but more gene- 
rally they are taken to pieces, and the spawn collected out of 
them, and reserved for future beds. 

It is conjectured, and we think witli every chance of suc- 
cess, that such beds might be made to produce crops during 
winter, by tlie application of moderate linings of well-prepared 
dung, sufficient to repel the frost, and keep the spawn in an 
active state. It will be necessary, in applying water during 
winter, to have it rendered moderately warm, but little of that 
element will be found to be necessary, the steam produced 
from the bed being almost sufficient. 

Mr. Hogan, in Hort. Trans., recommends growing mush- 
rooms on hollow ridges. " The exterior form of my bed," lie 
says, " resembles the old ones as built against a wall ; but, 
instead of building it solid, it is hollow. Strong stakes are 
inclined against the wall, at an angle of about 65 degrees, on 
which hurdles are placed to support the bed. By this means 
a cavity is formed under the stakes between them and the wall 
and floor, for the purpose of receiving dung, which, being 
readily changed, (the ends of the cavity being open,) an op- 
portunity is thus aflbrded of keeping up a permanently moist 
heat in the bed, the absence of which, together with an in- 
sufficient depth of mould for the spawn to run in, is the great 
defect of all other modes of raising mushrooms with which he 
is acquainted. On this structure, fourteen inches of rotten 
dung, and four inches of loamy earth, were laid and beaten 
firmly, and the spawning, and other processes and results, were 
the same as usual." From this mode, says an enlightened 
horticulturist, we fear two evils : — " Occasional over-heating 
and over-drying, either of which is ruinous to the mushroom. 
But, in our practice, we have succeeded in producing very 
good crops by the same process, but as our bed was con- 
structed within an old vinery, probably the necessary humidity 
of the house counteracted one of the evils feared, and the 



SejH.] THE CULINARY GARDEN. 233 

warmth of the house rendered the appHcdtion of much heat 
from below unnecessary. 

In the whole culture of the mushroom, it is absolutely ne- 
cessary, in order to ensure final success, to guard against over- 
heats, and too much moisture ; the effect of the beds becoming 
dry only retards the production of the crop, without lessening 
tlie chance of their appearing in abundance when rendered 
sufficiently moist, and as it is always easier to apply water 
than to dry the beds, it is better to err on the safe side. The 
more compact the whole bed, together with the mould, can be 
made, the stronger will the spawn run, and the less liable will 
the beds be to become suddenly too moist or too dry. The 
greater the depth of material, the more juicy and productive 
will the crop be, and the more they are exposed to the action 
of air and light, the finer will their flavor be. 

COLEWORTS. 

Some of the colewort-plants which are the forwardest in 
their growth, and which were sown about the end of July, 
may, about the beginning or before the middle of this month, 
be transplanted into the places where they are intended to 
remain for spring use. 

A sheltered part of the garden must be chosen in which to 
plant them out, where they may be protected from the influ- 
ence of the sharp cutting winds of winter. They should be 
planted in rows about seven or eight inches apart, and 
the rows should be ton inches or a foot distant from each 
other. 

Some of these plants will be fit for the table at Christmas, 
although the sowing may have been principally intended for 
the use of the ensuing spring. 

CABBAGE-PLANTS. 

The cabbage-plants which were sown about the middle of 
August for an early crop in the ensuing summer, should, 
towards the middle or latter end of this month, be pricked 
out on nur.sery-bcds. 

2 n 



031 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Scpt. 

A piece of good ground should be allotted for them in a 
well sheltered situation, which should be well dug, and divided 
into beds of about three feet and a half or four feet wide. 

The plants must be regulai'ly pulled from the seed-bed, pre- 
ferring those which are the most luxuriant in their growth, and 
leaving those of lesser growth to remain a fortnight or three 
weeks longer. 

Set the plants in longitudinal rows on the bed, about four 
or five inches asunder, allowing about half a foot distant from 
row to row. Close the earth well up about their stalks, leaving 
the surface smooth and even between the plants. 

The planting being finished, give the plants a moderate 
watering, which, if the weather be dry, should be repeated 
three or four times for the first week or ten days, after which 
time, the plants will have taken pretty good root. 

BROCCOLI. 

About the first or second week of this month, the last crop of 
broccoli should be transplanted where they are intended to 
remain to produce their heads. 

A piece of ground should be prepared for them in a warm 
situation, and they should be planted in rows about a foot and 
a half apart ; and about the same distance from each other in 
the rows. 

All weeds must be destroyed which may have sprung up 
between those rows of broccoH which were planted out in any 
former months ; hoe the ground, and di-aw the earth up roimd 
the stalks. 

LIFTING THE CROPS OF ONIONS. 

It is now time to take up the full crops of onions, for after 
the middle or the end of this month, they will advance little 
in their growth ; they must be spread thinly on the gi'ound, 
and if the weather be rainy, it were more advisable to remove 
them to a gravel walk, or to a space covered on purpose with 
sand or gravel, and exposed to the full influcnee of the sun. 
They must be turned over regularly once or twice a day, until 



Sept.] THE CULINARY GARDEIf. 2So 

they be tlioroughly dried, and then stored away in any well 
aired loft, barn, 8cc. If they be here spread thickly, they 
must still be turned occasionally ; or they may be strung up by 
the tails, or hung in nets. If it be not intended that the 
onions should be strung, the better plan then is, before they 
are housed, to deprive them of the tails and outer husks, 
especially the latter, the greater part of which comes oflf by 
the simple process of rubbing. 

TRANSPLANTING LETTUCES. 

About the close of this month the different sorts of lettuces, 
the seed of which was sown about the middle or the latter end 
of August, and which were intended for the service of the en- 
suing spring, should be planted out into the borders, where 
they are to remain for use. 

A warm border, under a southern wall or fence, should be 
prepared for them, and in digging the ground, the border 
should be laid in a sloping direction towards the sun, and its 
surface afterwards smoothly raked. Some of the best plants 
must then be chosen from the seed-bed, pulling off all decayed 
and broken leaves, and giving a partial trimming to the ex- 
tremities of the roots, place them in longitudinal rows about 
live or six inches distant from each other, allowing nearly the 
same space between the rows. 

If they survive the winter, one half of them may be thinned 
out regula'-ly in the spring, and transplanted into a more open 
situation, leaving the remainder in the border to cabbage early. 

If lettuce-seed were not sown in the month of August for 
the above })urpose, it should not now be longer deferred ; the 
iirst week of this month will be sufficiently early, provided the 
situation be warm and sheltered. 

LETTUCES FOR WINTER USE. 

Towartls the latter part of the month, the lettuces required 
lor winter use should be planted in beds in the di'iest part of 
the garden, and well exposed to the sun ; the beds should be 
m every respect of the size of a cucumber or melon-frame. 



236 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



for the purpose of admitting them to be readily covered in bad 
weather. 

In these beds some of tlie best seedling brown Dutch, or 
common cabbage-lettuces, should be planted, at about the dis- 
tance of seven or eight inches apart each way, and as soon as 
the weather begins to be cold, place the frames over them and 
cover them occasionally with the lights, or some close cover- 
ing, when the cold is severe. 

Some of these plants will be fit for the table by the latter end 
of December, provided that the season has not been very severe, 
and that a proper course of management has been pursued with 
them. In January and February they will be tolerably well 
cabbaged, and in March will be in high perfection. 

SOWING LETTUCE FOR FRAMES. 

About the middle, or any time before the end of this month, 
some of the ditlerent sorts of lettuce-seed should be sown for 
the purpose of planting in frames in October, to come in use 
in the spring and the early part of the summer. In very 
wet weather, they should be sheltered by drawing glasses over 
them, or any other appropriate covering ; and if those which are 
to be transplanted now into the open borders should be destroyed, 
those sown at this time will be ready to supply their place. 

The sorts most proper for this sowing are the Silesia and 
brown Dutch, the latter sort in particular ; the seed should be 
sown on a bed of rich earth, situated in a warm exposui'c. 

SMALL SALAUING. 

The different kinds of small salading should now be sown 
every eight or ten days, the sorts principally required are mus- 
tard, cresses, and rape. 

It will be necessary at this time to sow these seeds in a 
warmer situation than in the preceding months, and the ground 
prepared for them should be light and rich. 

Towards the middle of the month some of these seeds may 
be sown on a warm border under a southern wall, or a fence 
having a southern aspect. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



237 



If the weather prove wet and cold at the end of tlie month, 
some of each of tlie above-mentioned sorts should be sown in 
IVames, and covered occasionally with liglits, or they may be 
sown under bell or hand-glasses, for unless they be covered 
in cold weather, particularly in cold nights, they very rarely 
arrive at any dcgi'ce of perfection. 

Experience has shewn that these plants flourish best when 
sown in drills, which should be very shallow, nor should the 
seeds be covered more than a quarter of an inch, which should 
be done M'ith light earth, or they may be left uncovered, and 
will succeed equally well. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDSiN. 

Remove all decayed leaves, haulm, and stems, and the re- 
mains of all crops which have been used, so as to preserve 
order and neatness, and make way for winter crops, or winter 
fallows. 

Destroy insects and vermin of all sorts ; save all sorts of 
seeds that may be ripe ; keep all the walks in, and entrances 
to the garden, in a neat and orderly manner. 

All vacant ground, as soon as the crops are removed, should 
be trenched, where it is necessary, and rough dug, where trench- 
ing is not necessary ; but let this only be done in dry weather, 
and when the ground is in a fit state. 

Prepare ground for crops of onions for next year's sowing : 
for this purpose, make choice of the ground that they grew 
upon this year, but if there be any reasonable objection 
to that, choose another piece. Let it be well manured with 
very rotten dung, or rather with a compound of rotten dung, 
decayed vegetable matter, and fresh loamy mould. Let this 
be spread equally on the surface, and then dug in to an ordi- 
nary depth ; lay the surface up as roughly as possible, so as 
to present as nmch surface as possible to the action of the 
winter's frost: this will be in good state by next spring for 
pointing over, and sowing the seed. 



838 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Oct, 



OCTOBER. 



SOWING PEAS. 

Peas for the early crops of next year may be sown about the 
end of the month, choose a warm south border fully exposed 
to the sun. The sorts to sow at this time are, the true early 
frame, Charlton, nimble taylor, and hotspur. Sow either 
across the border, or longitudinally, according to the width of 
the border; or sow one row longitudinally, about four feet 
from the wall, and plant a row of beans three feet in front of 
that. By this means, the one will not much shade the other, 
nor will either shade the wall-trees. By sowing longitudi- 
nally, the pea hand-glass, already described, can be used with 
more propriety. Observe, as has already been directed, to 
sow on the surface, and cover only about three inches deep ; 
or if the soil be cold and wet, it were better to draw the 
mould up into small ridges a foot in height, and sow on the 
top of them. Or, to make ridges two feet high, and sow one 
line on the north side of the ridge, and another on the south. 
This is to be understood, when the lines run longitudinally 
and not across the south border. Should both rows stand 
the winter, the one on the north side, when sufficiently strong, 
may be transplanted to another border, or other sheltered 
place. 

A few early frame, nimble taylor, or any other approved 
sort of early pea, may be sown towards the end of the month 
in a sheltered spot. They should be sown thick in a bed, and 
when the weather sets in severely, they may be covered over 
with a frame and glasses, or other more convenient shelter, 
occasionally during winter. In spring they will be fit to 
ti'ansplant out into rows in the borders. In cold damp situa- 
tions, peas will by these means stand the winter where they 
would not in the open ground. Pieces of turf may be placed 
under them, when sown, as recommended by Messrs. Bishop 
and Bisset, to facilitate their transplantation. Or peas of any 
of the above sorts may be sown in shallow boxes or pots. 



Oct.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



239 



and protected during winter in a similar manner. Peas thus 
treated will come into fruit sooner by some days than such as 
stand out all winter, and, with little trouble or protection, will 
stand the severest frosts. 

SOWING AND TRANSt»LANTING LETTUCES. 

The lettuce-plants raised from the seeds sown in August or 
Deginning of September will be now stout plants. These 
should be now planted out where they are to stand the winter. 
A dry sheltered warm border should be prepared for them, by 
being neatly dug, in which the plants should be planted eight 
or ten inches apart. If the winter be mild, they will come into 
use in December and J anuary, and continue good longer, if occa- 
sionally sheltered in bad weather. Sloping banks are formed by 
those persons, who depend much upon this crop during winter 
and early in spring, upon which the plants are planted rather 
thickly together, as they will be afterwards gradually thinned 
for use. In damp situations, and in cold heavy soils, this is 
a good practice, as these plants would do little good without 
this or a similar protection. In light sandy soils and warm 
situations, the hardier kinds of lettuce will stand most winters 
without any protection whatever. The plants for late autumn 
use should not be transplanted, but left where they grew, to 
be cut as they arrive at a proper size. They should, however, 
have the earth well stirred up about their roots, and all weeds 
and decayed leaves removed, as well as all useless plants^ 
and thinned out to nine or ten inches apart. Where frames 
and glasses, or hand or bell-glasses are to spare, they may 
be now filled up with lettuce-plants, both of the August and 
September sowings. The larger of the former sowing may 
be forwarded in size, as the glasses can be kept upon them 
when necessary, never, however, omitting to give plenty of 
air to prevent them from being drawn up weak. The plants 
of the latter sowing should not be covered, unless in very cold 
or wet weather; the less protected that they are in autumn, 
the better will they stand the winter. Lettuce may also be 
planted at the bottom of the garden-walls, where they often 
survive the winter and come into use in spring, when those in 



£40 



THK PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



frames have been used, and those in the open borders lost A 
small sowing of the hardier kinds may be made in a sheltered 
spot : should they come up and stand the winter, they will be 
extremely useful in spring, affording a crop between those 
which have M'ithstood the weather, and those which are to be 
sown for the earliest spring-crops. 

In preserving lettuce, or any other crop, through the winter, 
it is a particular point in the management, that they be kept 
completely clear of weeds, dead leaves, and every thing that 
would induce a state of damp or decay. Coal-ashes have 
been found useful when s]irinkled between the plants to about 
the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, these having a 
tendency to absorb moisture, render the air round the plants 
less humid, and tend also to keep off the slugs in autumn. 
We have tried pulverized chalk for a similar purpose, without 
observing much difference in the effect. 

BLANCHING ENDIVE. 

As the plants of endive attain their full size, they should 
be blanched, in which state only can they appear at table as 
an ingredient in salads. However, for some culinary pur- 
poses, they are often used without being blanched. Many 
are the ways by which gardeners whiten or blanch endive ; 
the most primitive probably was merely tying up the leaves 
with pieces of bass, this is still often practised, and answers 
the purpose in proportion to the attention that is paid to the 
process. Others cover the whole plant while growing with a 
slate or tile, and many cover them in rows by placing two 
boards edgeways, so as to meet at their top. Some, after 
tying their leaves up, cover them nearly over with mould, sand, 
saw-dust, &c. ; while some cover them with inverted flower- 
pots, having the holes in their bottoms stopped ; this is an 
expeditious and commodious method, as the plants are kept 
dry, and the progress of the blanching can be easily examined. 
But the most effectual and better way is to have blanching- 
pots for the purpose. These pots are made similar to those 
used for blanching sea-kale, but only a foot in diameter, and 
six or eight inches high, having a knob at their top, by which 





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Oct.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



241 



they are removed with greater facihty. Sea-kale pots are also 
often used for this purpose, and answer equally well, as far as 
the blanching of the crop is concerned, but they are less con- 
venient from their greater size. 

In whatever way endive is blanched, it is of the first conse- 
quence that the plants be perfectly dry before the process com- 
mences ; to ensure this, they should only be covered in the 
afternoon of dry days. 

PLANTING ENDIVE FOR WINTER AND SPRING USE. 

Endive should still be planted for a successional crop, and 
at this season, a dry and sheltered situation should be chosen ; 
but, when the situation or soil is damp, banks or ridges 
should be tinown up, on which to plant them. The steep 
sides of asparagus-beds are often planted with endive and 
lettuce by the London commercial gardeners, who find them, 
by such means, to stand the winter well. They also raise 
banks three feet, and often more, in height, upon the sloping 
sides, on which they set the plants. Private gardeners, who 
have much less ground, often fill their spare cucumber-frames, 
or pits with endive, in which they remain during the winter, 
and are blanched at the same time. 

SOWING CARROT-SEED TO STAND THE WINTER. 

In favourable situations, carrots are found to stand the win- 
ter, and when that is the case, they come in as a useful vege- 
table in spring, long before those sown for general crops are 
fit for use. It is needless to say, that the warmest situation 
should be chosen for this crop. As the chance of their standing 
is precarious, and as they are to be used when very little, a 
small spot of ground will be suflicient for an ordinary family, 
as they may be sown very thick. 

TAKING UP AND STORING POTATOES FOR SEED AN D WINTER USE. 

Potatoes should now be taken up in dry weather, if suffi- 
ciently ripe, and stored by for winter and spring use. Potatoes 
intended to be eaten, probably cannot be too ripe, as we sus- 



fi4^ THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Oc/. 

pect that a gi'eater portion of better prepared fecula abounds 
in them, than in such as are taken up before they are fully 
ripened. Such, however, as are intended for seed, it has been 
stated, should not be allowed to become too ripe, as, in that 
case, they are more subject to the disease called the curl, 
which is often very detrimental to the crops. In taking up 
potatoes, whether for eating or seed, it cannot be denied that 
by fur too little attention has been paid to keep each sort 
separate. Cultivators, generally, make little distinction be- 
tween the kinds, no farther than merely keeping such as they 
term early potatoes, separate from the late ones. But, amongst 
the latter, there are many varieties better calculated for keep- 
ing than others ; these should be kept separate, and those 
sorts used first, which are not found to keep so well. It is 
necessary that they should be taken up when the ground is 
perfectly dry, more particularly in damp strong soils, and 
either housed in places for the purpose, or piled up on dry 
ground in a conical form, and covered a foot thick with sti'aw, 
and then a foot of mould placed over it, leaving the surface of 
the whole as smooth as possible, the better to throw otf the 
rain. This is the general practice in Scotland, where much 
attention is paid to this valuable root. But we have seen, in 
chalky countries, excellent potato-houses cut out of the solid 
chalk, in situations where there was no chance of their being 
injured by damp or under-water, such houses being roofed 
over, and the roof only being above the surface, preserved them 
well for a great length of time. In such houses, there are 
often separate divisions formed of boards, into which the 
potatoes are placed, each kind by itself, and were potatoes 
buried in deep wells sunk on purpose, and perfectly dry, they 
might, probably, be kept for some months longer than in the 
usual ways. 

TAKING UP CARROTS. 

Carrots, when left too long in the oround, are liable in some 
soils to be attacked by worms ; for this reason, and their 
being more readily got at during winter, they are taken up 
at this time. In taking them up, they should not be broken 
nor Nvo'inded with the tools employed for that purpose. Their 



Oct.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



243 



tops should be cut off about half an inch above the root : 
they may be stacked in a shed or spare house in dry sand, 
laid in layers of roots and sand alternately ; or, they may be 
stored in the open ground as directed for patotoes {which see). 

TAKING UP PARSNEPS. 

The parsnep is a native of many parts of this country, as 
well as the carrot, therefore both will remain in the ground 
uninjured by frost. The difficulty of getting them out of the 
ground during frost, induces us to take up a portion of them 
in autumn. They are stored in the same manner as carrots. 
{See the foregoing article.) 

PRICKING OUT CAULIFLOWERS. 

The cauliflowers sown in August or the beginning of Sep- 
tember, will now be fit to prick out in beds, where they are 
to remain during the winter. For this purpose, [ repare a 
piece of ground in a sheltered, but not a shaded situation, 
of the size of one or more garden-frames : having sufficiently 
dug the ground, which should be well broken with the spade, 
proceed to set the plants in regular distances, of about four 
inches apart each way. When they are planted, give a water- 
ing to settle the mould about their roots ; place a frame over 
them, if such can be spared, and cover them with the glasses 
for a few days, until the plants have taken root. Afterwards 
expose them as much as the state of the weather will admit, 
only covering them, when there is the appearance of frost or 
continued rains. Keep them clear of weeds and dead leaves, 
and guard against the attacks of slugs and mice. Cover the 
surface of the ground with coal-ashes, or fine sharp sand, which 
will resist the damp. If the convenience of frames be not to 
be had, prick them out in the same way under a wall or pales, 
doping the gi-ound in the process of digging towards the sun. 
Or, they may be protected in beds on a warm spot, covered 
occasionally with mats, supported by hoops. In either case, 
let them enjoy a free circulation of air, and be kept as dry 
as possible. 



244 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



STORING CAULIFLOWERS. 

Cauliflowers may be preserved for a considerable time by 
various methods. About the end of the month, pick out all 
those which are close, and well shaped; lift them carefully 
with a spade ; dress off most of the leaves above the flower ; 
remove them to an open shed, and lay them in by the heels, 
as it is called, among rotten tan, or dry mould, place them 
closely together, but not so as to touch one another. In this 
state, if kept free of damp, they will continue good for some 
time after those in the open air are exhausted. They may 
also be carefully taken up, and stored in the same way in the 
borders of any peach-house, or vinery, observing to shut up 
the lights during rain, and also on frosty nights. They may 
be also protected in deep garden-frames, or they may be taken 
up in a dry day, and carried to an airy shed, and tied in pairs, 
and hung up on poles or strong nails, with their heads down- 
ward ; or they may be cut over about six inches below the 
flower, and a few of their leaves lefl to be wTapped round 
them, and buried about eighteen inches below the surface in 
a dry bank, or among sand in a cellar, or other house. 

The most successful method we have practised for preserving 
cauliflower in perfection through the winter months, is to 
cut them in dry weather ; dress off all their leaves, place them 
in an airy place to dry for a day or two, then bury them in 
casks, or boxes, amongst bog-mould. The best sort of bog- 
mould for this purpose is that, which is composed of vegetable 
matter, principally such as is generally dug for fuel. This 
sort is antiseptic, and capable of resisting putrefication, par- 
ticularly when excluded from atmospheric air. A stronger 
proof cannot be adduced, than the many vegetable bodies 
which we see constantly dug out of this matter in a state very 
little changed from their original; although, in many cases, 
they may have been deposited there some hundred years ago. 
The mould which is used for cultivating heaths, and other 
tender-rooted plants, and which is generally called bog-mould, 
is not so fit for this purpose as the former, probably this sort 
should be denominated heath-mould, being always found on 
the surface of uncultivated heaths, &c. The heads or flowers 



Oct.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



245 



of cauliflowers preserved in this way, should be well washed 
previously to using, as they become black when buried any 
length of time; not that such blackness proceeds from any 
decomposition of the heads, but arises from the more subtile 
particles of the mould adhering to their surface. 

PLANTING BEANS. 

About the middle or end of this month, plant some beans to 
come forward as an early crop in the ensuing summer ; they 
will be fit for use about the end of May, or the beginning of 
J unc. 

The mazagan bean is the best sort for planting at this sea- 
son, on account of its coming in earlier than any of the other 
sorts, and although they be of low growth, yet they are plen- 
tiful bearers ; they also possess the property of standing the 
winter better than almost any of the other sorts. 

The best situation in which to plant them at this season is 
under some southern fence, in rows across the borders, which 
rows should be two feet or two feet and a half apart, planting 
them about three or four inches distant from each other in the 
rows. 

It is the common practice with many gardeners, when they 
plant their beans for an early crop, to set them, in the first in- 
stance, pretty thick on a bed of good earth, and as soon as 
they have attained a moderate height to transplant them into 
the borders, according to the following manner. Let a bed 
of good earth be dug up in a convenient warm corner, then 
draw about two inches of the earth from the surface, and scat- 
ter in the beans pretty thick ; afler which, cover them with the 
earth which was drawn off the bed ; or draw some drills across 
the bed with a hoe held flatways, throwing in the beans rather 
abundantly, and then immediately afterwards draw the earth 
regularly over them. 

Afler the beans have come up, and have attained an inch and 
a half or two inches in height, they may be transplanted, when 
the weather is mild, in rows, according to the directions already 
given. Particular care must be taken that the earth be well 
closed about every plant, and then they will soon gi'ow very 



9A6 



THE PRACWAL GARDENER. 



[Oct, 



fi'eely, and be sufficiently rooted to bear the winter's cold ; or 
they may be left in their native bed till the spring, and then 
transplanted, protecting them through the winter with mats, or 
fi-araes with glasses. 

The principal reason for adopting this method is, that it is 
generally allowed that those beans, which are transplanted, will 
come in sooner by a week or a fortnight, than those which 
are planted where they are to remain, at the same time that 
their produce will be greater. 

LIFTING AND STORING BEET. 

The croj>s of red beet should, at the close of this month, 
be taken up and laid by for winter use. For this operation, 
it were advisable to choose a dry season, and the greatest care 
must be observed in lifting the roots, to prevent them bleeding 
at the wounds which they may have received. Some dry sand 
should be procured, and the roots placed in it, in some shed 
or cellar beyond the influence of the frost. It is the practice 
of some persons to let the beets remain in the ground, and 
in this case, they should be covered, before the winter sets in, 
with litter or reeds, or peas or beans haulm. By this method, 
however, they are not only likely to rot, but also to lose their 
color from the influence of the rain. When the tops are 
dressed, the crown of the roots should be left about an inch 
long to prevent their bleeding. 



TRANSPLANTING CABBAGE-PLANTS. 

Towards the end of this month is a proper time for planting 
out early cabbage-plants, where they are to remain for cab- 
baging early in the following summer. 

A spot of good ground should be chosen for them, over 
which some rotten dung should be spread before it be dug; 
then dig the ground one spade deep, burying the dung regu- 
larly in the bottom of the trenches. 

If time can be spared, we would advise to trench the ground 
for this crop. As a considerable portion of every garden is 



Oct. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



247 



taken up with cabbages planted at this time, or early in spring, 
we would recommend to commence at one end of a quarter, or 
division of the garden, and to trench the ground for this crop, 
forming the surface into ridges, and as the operation proceeds, 
trenching to the depth of two feet or two and a half, accord- 
ing to circumstances. Give plenty of manure, and let it 
be regularly laid in the trenches, as the operator proceeds. 
When one trench is finished, set the plants in the bottom, or 
lowest part of the ridge, and in wet soils, a row may be planted 
on the top of the ridge. If both survive the winter, either 
may be removed to make up blanks in the whole, or removed 
to another piece of ground, preferring to leave the row in the 
lowest part of the ridge. When this first row is planted, pro- 
ceed with another trench, which ridge up in the same manner, 
and plant the second row of plants, and so on until the whole 
piece intended be trenched and planted. By this means, the 
whole garden will be regularly trenched, and when the whole 
ground has been gone over in this manner, begin again, where 
the first operation commenced. In old gardens, when the soil 
has been long cropped with the brassica tribe, this is almost a 
certain cure for that disease, occasioned by grubs, and gene- 
rally called, clubbing. The plants will be protected from cut- 
ting winds, and grown in a fresh soil ; the eggs of the grubs 
will be buried, probably, beyond the possibility of their again 
visiting the surface, at least for some time. If this, or a 
similar rotation, were more generally adopted, less injury would 
be done by these and other insects. The various varieties of 
brassica would then follow in crops of regular rotation, as they 
seldom succeed, if planted twice on the same ground. 

The plants should be set in rows about two feet apart, 
allowing about the same space between the rows, which is 
sufficient room for this early plantation. 

Some of the early cabbage-plants should, however, remain 
in the nursery-beds till January or February, when they are 
to- be planted out permanently, for it frequently happens, in 
severe winters, that many of those plants, which are set out 
early in a more open exposure, are destroyed by the frosts ; 
should this take place, then have recourse to the nursery-beds 
to supply their places. 



248 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct, 



If any caDbage-plants still remain on the seed-bed, remove 
them into nursery-beds about the beginning of the month, in 
order that they may gain sufficient strength to endure the en- 
suing frosts. 

WINTER SPINACH. 

Tf, at this season, the spinach-beds be not kept exceedingly 
free from weeds, they will soon outgrow the plants and totally 
choak their growth. The better plan at this season is to clean 
them by the hand, because they are now principally covered 
with running weeds, such as chick-weed, &c. 

If the spinach were omitted to be thinned out last month, 
it should be done, as soon as possible, the beginning of the 
present, always clearing away the worst of the plants, and 
leaving the remainder about five inches apart. 

EARTHING UP BROCCOLI AND BRUSSELS-SPROUTS. 

The crops of broccoli should now be cleared from weeds ; 
and finally moulded up for winter about the middle or latter 
end of the month ; a dry day should be chosen for the opera- 
tion. The crops of Brussels-sprouts may be treated in the 
same manner. 

DRESSING ASPARAGUS BEDS. 

Some time in this month cut down the stalks of asparagus 
and dress the beds. The stalks should be cut down quite 
close to the surface of the beds, after which the weeds should 
be hoed clean away, and drawn into the alleys. Having then 
stretched a line, mark out the alleys with a spade about twenty 
inches or two feet wide, according to the original width which 
was allowed them. 

Then proceed to dig the alleys about a spade deep, spread- 
ing the greater part of the earth over the beds in a neat and 
regular manner ; and accordingly as you dig the alleys, bury 
the weeds regularly in the bottom of the trench, covering them 
with a sufficient quantity of earth. The edges of the beds 



Oct] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



249 



should be formed full and straight, and the bottoms of the 
trenches be made level and smooth. 

If it be intended to manure the beds at this time, let a suffi- 
cient quantity of rotten dung and fresh rich loamy earth be 
prepared, by being well mixed and incorporated, with which 
to top-dress the beds, and which should be laid on them to the 
thickness of two inches, and over this should be laid an inch 
in thickness over the beds, of mould taken from the alleys be- 
tween them. 

Or a quantity of good rotten dung may be procured, such 
as is taken from old cucumber or melon-beds, and this should 
be spread over the asparagus-beds, as soon as the stems and 
weeds are cleared away. The dung should be well broken 
and laid on of an equal thickness, after which dig the alleys, 
and lay a small quantity of the earth over the dung. 

The beds being thus prepared, plant in each alley a row of 
colewort or cabbage-plants, at about ei^ht or nine inches apart 
in the rows. These plants often survive the winter in the 
severest frosts, when all those have been destroyed which were 
planted on a level spot. If it be preferred, a row of early 
garden-beans may be planted in each alley. 

ASPARAGUS FOR FORCING. 

Asparagus-plants which are intended for forcing, should 
also now be cut down, the weeds drawn into the alleys as 
directed before ; bury the weeds, and as you proceed throw a 
little mould over the beds. 

Those plants, however, which are intended for forcing this 
winter, need only have the stalks cut away, and covered with 
leaves or long dry litter, to enable them to be taken up in 
time of frost. 

SEEDLING ASPARAGUS. 

Seedling asparagus-plants, which were sown last spring, 
should at this time also have a little top-dressing, such as clear- 
ing the bed from weeds, laying a little rotten dung over it, &c. 

2 K 



250 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



EARTHING UP CARDOONS. 

This work must be done in dry weather, and at a time when 
the leaves of the plants are dry. 

Observe at every time that these plants are earthed up, to 
tie the leaves together with a hayband, then, breaking the 
earth well, lay it up the sides at an equal thickness about the 
plants. 

EARTHING UP CELERY. 

As it advances in height, celery should be constantly earthed 
up, that the plants may be well blanched before the hard 
frosts come on. In dry days, therefore, proceed to this work, 
breaking the earth well first, and then laying it carefully up to 
the sides of the plants, without burying their hearts. 

LIFTING AND STORING SALSAFY, SCORZONERA, AND SKIRRET. 

These herbs may now be lifted and stored for winter use, in 
the same manner as directed for carrot. 

SOWING SMALL SALADING. 

Chervil and cresses may still be sown. The sooner now, 
however, the better, that they may get established before the 
winter sets in. 

At the bottom of a south wall, sow a supply of Normandy 
or curled cress ; it will, with little protection, afford a fine salad 
during the winter, and come in early in spring. 

SOWING RADISH. 

Sow some of the different sorts of radish in a sheltered 
situation. They may perhaps come in about Christmas, and 
if they do, will be useful. If they should fail, the value of the 
seed is trifling. 



Oc/.J 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



S51 



WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

All vacant pieces of ground should now be either trenched 
or dug deep, leaving the surface as rough as possible, or 
ridged up in long narrow ridges, so that the frost may pene- 
I'ate through it. This operation of winter fallowing, either 
by trenching, digging, or ridging, is of infinitely more im- 
portance to garden-ground than all the manures that can be 
given it without. 

Clear away all decayed leaves, and dig them into the ground 
or carry them to the compost-yard for vegetable mould. If a 
garden be thus laid up in fallow, it will have a neat and 
orderly appearance all winter, and will be contemplated with 
more pleasure by its owner than if left in that state of neg- 
lected confusion, in which we generally see kitchen-gardens 
at this season. It will be a saving of labour to the gar- 
dener in spring, as well as materially improving the soil. In 
strong clayey wet soils, this is of the utmost importance, and 
few gardens are so light and sandy as to be injured by it. 

Heaps of different sorts of compost for manure should be 
turned over, and properly mixed, but this should be done in 
dry weather. Draw in fresh loam, turf, and other such like 
matter, to incorporate with dung, and be not sparing in col- 
lecting such materials. Composts thus prepared are always 
better than rank dung ; too much, therefore, cannot be col- 
lected, and no season of the year is better adapted for that 
business than the present 



252 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



NOVEMBER. 



PLANTING BEANS. 

Beans for early spring crops should now be planted, for 
which, see last month. 

Any of the early kinds of beans, the mazagan in particular, 
may be sown thickly in a bed, {as directed last inonthy) 
and occasionally protected. They will be fit to transplant out 
where they are to perfect their crop in spring. 

SOWING PEAS. 

This is a good season for sowing peas. Those sown this 
month will be equally early with those sown last month ; it is, 
however, best to sow at both times. (See last month,) 

COVERING UP ARTICHOKES. 

Artichokes should now be covered up, before the winter sets 
in, with peas-haulm or stable litter, as they are very liable to 
be injured, if not totally destroyed by severe frost. The de- 
cayed stalks must be first cleared away, and also the bulk ot 
the leaves. The litter must be laid along the rows, sufH- 
ciently broad to cover the roots, according to the size of the 
stools, and about the thickness of a foot, and it should be 
trodden or beaten well down with the fork to prevent it being 
blown about. 

Leaves of trees, which will now be in abundance, make a 
good covering, but are apt to blow about with the wind. As 
a preventive, however, cover first with leaves, and then add 
a little littcv the top, and for greater security a little 

mould may be put over all. The best covering for artichokes 
is rotten tan, when no longer useful for fermentation. 

TAKING UP CARROTS, PARSNEPS, BEETS, &€• 

See last month. 



Nov.\ 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



253 



SAVING TURNIP SEED. 

When it is intended to plant turnips for seed, some of the best 
formed roots should now be selected. They should be planted 
deep, in rows two feet apart, and at a distance from any other 
plants of the same family, to prevent, as much as possible, 
the hybridizing of them with the pollen of other kinds. 

SAVING CARROT SEED. 

The largest and best-formed roots, free from canker or worm, 
should be made choice of, and at this time planted in rows 
two feet apart, and planted deep, so that their crowns may be 
at least two or three inches under ground. In gathering the 
seeds, prefer such as are produced from the centi*al or prin- 
cipal umbel, from which may be expected the finest seed, and 
the strongest plants. 

SPINACH. 

Beds of spinach should now be kept perfectly clean and free 
from weeds ; and if the plants stand too closely together, draw 
up the smallest of them for present use, thinning them in 
such a manner as that each plant may stand singly. 

If this be done, and in proper time, the sun and air will 
penetrate more easily amongst them, and will dry the surface 
of the earth, which is of great advantage to the plants, and 
will cause them to gi'ow and thrive the better. 

In gathering spinach, the following directions should be at- 
tended to, viz. to cut off only the outside larger leaves, per- 
mitting the others to remain, which by that means will grow 
the faster, aiid be fit for gathering in succession. 

COVERING UP CELERY. 

The crops of celery, particularly the most forward, should 
be earthed up as far as may be judged necessary, and a quan- 
tity of fern, or long littery diinij, brought to the sides of tlic 



254 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



beds to be ready on the appearance of frost wherewith to cover 
the whole of them. They should be covered to the thickness 
of a foot or fifteen inches, but this covering should be always 
taken off, as soon as the frost is gone. By attending to this 
particular, celery may be preserved throughout the winter. 

CAULIFLOWER-PLANTS. 

The cauliflower-plants which are in frames should have free 
air admitted to them every fine day, by wholly removing the 
glasses in the morning, but at the approach of night, they 
should be again regularly covered. 

When the weather is very wet, it will be proper to keep the 
plants covered w^ith the glasses, but, at the same time, to raise 
them to such a height, as to admit the air to have fi*ee circu- 
lation over the whole of the bed- 

Take way all dead leaves as soon as they appear on the 
plants, and keep them entirely clean from every species of 
weeds. 

The cauliflowers under bell or hand-glasses, require just the 
same treatment as those in frames. It will be also of essential 
service to them to draw the earth up a little round their stalks. 

Where cauliflower plants were neglected to be pricked out 
last month, let it now be done as early in this month as pos- 
sible. 

COVERING UP ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus, being indigenous to many of our sea-shores, 16 
not so tender, as to require protection in winter. It is seldom, 
or never, that asparagus-roots are injured by frost. The prac- 
tice of covering asparagus seems to be mistaken by many. 
The real use of covering it in winter is, not so much to pro- 
tect its roots, as to manure the ground. For this purpose, 
therefore, good dung should be used, and not mere litter, or 
leaves, which is the practice of some persons. Previously to 
laying on the dung, the surface should be carefially forked up a 
few inches deep to allow the juices of the dung to penetrate more 
readily to the roots. Asparagus-roots yield a great bulk of 
vegetable matter in the course of the season, therefore this 



Nov.] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



255 



must exhaust the ground on which it grows ; and, being a 
perennial plant, not often renewed by sowing, or planting, it 
requires a proportional quantity of good manure to support it. 
Salt is a good manure for asparagus, the subtile particles of 
which penetrate to a gTeat depth. This should, however, be 
used with discretion. 

Good stable-dung, which has not been exhausted in hot- 
beds, should be chosen, and put on in quantity according to its 
quality, fi'om six to twelve inches. The rains, in winter, will 
wash the juices of the dung down to the roots. Where sea- 
weed can bo procured, it is probably the best manure for 
asparagus ; but where that cannot be got, salt may be used 
mixed with the dung : its parts will descend more gi'adually 
along with the juices of the dung, than when applied as a 
simple. 

COVERING UP SEA-KALE. 

The beds of young sea-kale, that are not intended to be 
forced, should be covered up as before directed for asparagus. 
Observing, first, to clear the ground of weeds, and to fork 
up the surface. 

The beds intended for cutting in spring should be also 
forked up, and cleared of weeds, and covered from five to 
fifteen inches with leaves, which will now be in abundance; 
covering the strong and old roots thicker than the young and 
weak ones. A few branches, or old boards, may be laid over 
the whole, to prevent the leaves being blown away, and they 
will require no farther attention till spring, when they will be 
fit for cutting. 

The beds of sea-kale intended for forcing, should also be 
forked up and covered with leaves, sufficiently thick to keep 
the frost out, and to render them more easily got at, when 
the operation of forcing is to commence : for which, see Forc- 
ing Garden. 

CARDOONS. 

Cardoons should now be finally earthed up, and protected 
as is advised for celery. 



256 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



PLANTING LATE CROPS OF CABBAGES. 

The planting of cabbages for next spring's use should now 
be completed as early in the month as possible, that they may 
become rooted before the growing season ceases. The best 
plants should be chosen for this purpose. The worst may re- 
main in the seed-bed, and take their chance ; if they survive 
the winter, they will be useful to make up vacancies in the 
crops planted out 

WINTER ONIONS. 

The crops of onions sown to stand the winter should be 
kept clear of weeds. In dry weather, the ground between the 
rows should be hoed; and, if wet, the weeds should be hand- 
picked; as the onions increase in size, they may be thinned 
out for salads. 

CARE OF WINTER SALADS, &C. 

The crops of chervil, cresses, endive, parsley, and ra- 
dishes, sown and planted as directed in the two last preceding 
months, should, in the prospect of severe weather, be protected 
with care ; by covering them with branches of spruce or broom, 
and in very severe weather with mats. The most sure method 
is to have a supply in the forcing department, which see,) par- 
ticularly of the smaller sorts. 

LETTUCE, 

Lettuce-plan t5, which are under frames, should enjoy the 
free air daily, when the weather is mild and dry ; the glasses 
should entirely be taken way in the morning ; when the weather 
is wet or very cold, set them on again in the evening, but at 
other times they may remain off all night ; when these plants 
are kept too close, they are apt to draw up weak. 

In very wet weather, keep the glasses on, only raising them 
at the back of the frame, that the air may have a free course 
and be duly admitted to the plants. 



S^OVJ] THE Cl'I.lNARV ( AKDI N. '257 

When the weather is severe and tVosty, the ghisses may be 
kept close ; other coverings also, if necessary by the extreme 
rigour of the season, must be made use of. 

Where any of these plants have been placed under bell or 
hand-glasses, observe the same directions as before mentioned. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CILINARY GARDEN. 

When the weather is th-y, and time to spare, let such pieces 
of ground be trenched as require it : all other spare ground 
should now be rough-dug or ridged up to the action of the 
winter. Such crops as require to be protected diu'ing winter, 
should now be attended to. All rubbish and useless vege- 
tables removed from the garden. ^loulds, composts, and 
manures should now be collected, and mixed to be in readi- 
ness for the ensuing spring. 

Roots of all kinds, intended to be preserved for winter use, 
should now be taken up and housed as directed in the last and 
former months, as after this time they will not increase in size, 
and some of them will be injured by remaining in the ground, 
particularly beet-root, which loses its coloiu* ; and carrots, 
which are apt to be attacked by worms w^hen left; too long in the 
ground ; they are also more conveniently obtained when wanted 
for use, if packed in sand, straw, or otherwise, and are not 
injured by firost, which not only detracts from their flavour, 
but renders them less likelv to keep for any length of time. 
Attention should now be paid to neatness and order as well as 
during the former months. The walks in and connected with 
the culinary garden, should be kept neat and clean, and in 
dry days they shoukl be frequently rolled, to keep the surface 
even and agreeable to walk upon, as well as to keep down the 
worm-casts, which at this season are very troublesome, and if 
not swept oil", and the walks afterwards rolled, give them a 
coarse and neglected appearance. 



258 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



DECEMBER. 



PLANTING BEANS. 

If the weather will permit, plant beans as directed last 
month, but if the ground be not dry, defer this planting, till 
next month or until February. 

SOWING PEAS. 

Peas may be sown as directed last month, if the weather be 
mild and dry ; if not, defer till next month. Look carefully 
over the crops of beans and peas already sown, and when 
mice or other vermin attack them, let them be destroyed by 
poison or traps. If this be neglected, they will soon destroy 
all the crops. Furze, or Ulcx ettropeus, chopped small, and 
strewed over the peas in the drills, is often used to prevent 
the attacks of mice. The crops of beans and peas that may 
be above gi'ound should be carefully examined in dry days, 
and the earth stirred about their stems, and a little drawn up 
to them, if necessai*y. 

Unless in very severe frosts, avoid covering peas or beans 
this month with the pea hand-glass, or other means, as that 
would draw them up too tender, and render them less able to 
stand the frosts, which generally are more severe, particularly 
of late years, in January and February. Glass-cases are in- 
tended more to accelerate, than protect the crops. Hurdles 
may be placed upright parallel to the rows ; or pea-stikes may 
be put along the rows, which will partially protect them, without 
drawing them up too tender. In wet soils, a slight covering 
of coal-ashes will resist the damp, and not injure the crop, if 
not applied in too large a quantity. Where chalk can be had, a 
slight covering of it will greatly prevent the effects of damp, 
it corrects the acidity of the ground, and imbibes a great por- 
tion of moisture. 

Mice are the greatest enemies that the gardener has to con- 
tend with in the rearing of early crops of beans or peas. Rats, 



Dec] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



259 



although more formidable, are not so generally found to de- 
stroy seed in the ground. The best modes of destroying mice, 
are certainly to have a few cats domiciliated in the back 
shades ; they will keep a garden clear of these invaders. The 
next is, a slate or a brick supported by a combination of three 
slips of wood, forming the figure 4, and baited with a pea or 
bean, a piece of bacon or cheese ; or, a brick may be used, by 
placing two pieces of wood in the ground, about five inches 
apart, each slit at the top, through which slits a stout thread is 
drawn, and a bean or pea fixed to the middle of the thread ; 
the brick is placed, resting one end on the ground, and the 
other on the thread : the mouse, in attempting to take away 
the bean, cuts the thread, and the brick falls down upon it 
This is, of all traps, the simplest, and soonest set. Several 
hunch'ed of these traps should be set in different parts of the 
garden, particularly where mice are found to resort to. By 
looking over them once or twice a-week, and re-setting any 
that may have fallen, the garden will be kept pretty clear of 
these vermin. Rats are generally destroyed by poi on, and 
most gentlemen have a person employed by the year to destroy 
them. But, in all large places, one of the stationary labour- 
ers should be instructed in destroying vermin of all sorts, and 
be paid either by the year, or so much per head for moles, 
rats, mice, and all birds or beasts, that desti'oy the fi'uits of 
the earth. This would be found the most economical and 
satisfactory way of getting rid of such enemies. 



MUSHROOMS. 

Be very careful now of mushroom-beds, to shelter them 
from the wet and sharp frosts. Lay a covering of clean straw, 
a foot or a foot and a half in thickness, over every bed ; this 
will generally produce the desired efiect. Dutch reed-mats 
are the best covering for mushroom-beds, and, if taken care 
of, will last for many years : these should be placed over the 
straw, and will be found completely to throw off the wet. 

After heavy rains or snow, examine the beds ; and if the 
covering next the beds be wet, remove it, and place in its 
stead the same quantity of fresh straw. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Dec. 



PROTECTING-FRAME DEPARTMENT. 

Look carefully over the cauliflower, lettuce, cape broccoli, 
radishes, and salading of every description, that are under 
frames, hand-glasses, or other shelters. Remove all decayed 
leaves, weeds, or other rubbish from them ; give plenty of 
fresh air in fine days, by removing the glasses, either wholly 
or partially, as circumstances may direct, and cover them from 
rains, snow, or frost, by adding a covering of litter, bass-mats, 
j)r reed-mats, as may be most convenient. 

PROTECTING CULINARY VEGETABLES. 

Protect celery and cardoons as directed in November, and 
lay some long littery dung over the roots of rhubarb, sea-kale, 
and asparagus, intended to be taken up to force in the forcing 
department. Protect endive in the borders by branches of 
trees, or in severe weather, by straw or reed-mats ; also ra- 
dishes and other salads, in the open borders, and crops of 
carrots for spring use. Parsley, and every other production 
of the garden that are likely to be destroyed by frost, should 
also be protected. 

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE CULINARY GARDEN. 

The operations of trenching, digging, and ridging, should 
be continued, if dry weather, if not, it were advisable to find 
employment for the men in some other department. Deci- 
duous hedges may now be cut ; any fences connected with the 
garden put in repair, if necessary. The onions and other 
roots stored, should be occasionally examined in bad weather, 
and all that show symptoms of decay, removed, before they 
contaminate the remainder. If frosty weather, wheel out 
manures of all sorts, and lay them in neat heaps in different 
quarters of the garden ; it will save much time in the spring, 
when they are to be dug in ; but, in doing this, by no means 
divide the manure in small heaps of a wheelban'ow-load 
each ; this is the next thing to wheeling it into a river. Let 
each heap contain as much manure as is supposed will be 



Dec.^ 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



261 



sufficient for the quarter, on which it is placed ; put it neatly 
up, and cover it with a thin coat of mould, to prevent as little 
of its goodness escaping as possible. 

ICE-HOUSE. 

This is the season in which to expect materials to fill the 
ice-house ; have it properly cleared out of all sti'aw, or other 
filth, that may have accumulated in it ; have beaters and ram- 
mers prepared for packing it, when either snow or ice is 
found in sufficient quantity to fill it. If the ice-house be built 
on a proper principle, either the one or the other will answer 
equally well. Snow, in fact, very much resembles ice, when 
well beaten in the house, and can only be considered in the 
character of ice. It answers all the purposes of ice in domestic 
cookery or confectionery, besides having this advantage over 
ice, that it is sooner collected, and packed in the house with 
less labour, and keeps equally well. 

ICE-HOUSE AND ITS MANAGEMENT. 

Ice, in the hot days of summer, is considered such a luxury, 
that few that can command it would like to be without. The 
situation for an iee-house should be chosen on a dry and rather 




elcviited spot of gi-avelly or chalky gi-ound, and as near to a 
pond or piece of water as circumstances will admit of. If the 
situation be shaded by more elevated ground, so much the 
better, but if it be not naturally so, it may be rendered arti- 
ficially so by planting. It must be, as much as possible, hidden 



262 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Dec. 



from the sun's rays. The fonri of our ice-houses is generally 
that of an inverted cone. The London confectioners, as well 
as most people on the continent, content themselves with keep- 
ing it in cellars, surrounded with very thick walls, and without 
windows, being entered sometimes by straight and sometimes 
by crooked passages, secured by double and often by treble 
doors, and the ice thickly covered with straw or mats. 

The accompanying figure will give an idea of the general 
plan of ice-houses in this country. 




In building the ice-house, a space (^f two feet or more 
should be left at the bottom {a), for receiving any moisture 
which may drain from the ice in the process of meUing ; from 
this space, a drain of brick-work (6), set in cement, the dimen- 
sions of which, however, need not be so large as represented 
in the accompanying sketch, and whicli is intended to 
carry the moisture to a considerable distance ; this drain 
should have a stop or trap for the exclusion of air (c), and over 
the space at the bottom (a) should be placed a strong grating 
of wood, to let the moisture fall down, which may at any time 
proceed from the melting of the ice. The sides of the well 
{(Id) must be walled up with brick or stone, at least two feet 
thick, or the wall may be built hollow. When the proper 
height is attained, the well may be arched over with two 
arches, with a vacuity between, and leaving in the centre a 
hole, for the admission of the ice (e) ; and in the sides, a door 
for taking it out (/). This door, the better to exclude the 



Dec.'] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN 



263 



air, should open into a porch {g) with tlie three other doors, 
the spaces between which should be filled with straw, to ex- 
clude more effectually the heat of the atmosphere. The whole 
being covered first with a covering of tempered clay, and next 
with a hill of earth. The appearance will not be disagreeable, 
as it may be planted with evergreens. 

The exterior may be so decorated, as to become an object 
of ornament, should it be placed in any part of the dressed 
grounds. 

The size of the house must depend on the quantity of ice 
which is wanted ; but we would recommend, that, in making 
an ice-house, rather to make it too large than too small, as it 
sometimes happens that neither ice nor snow can be procured 
to fill it. Instances have occurred, that the London confec- 
tioners have had to import it from the polar seas. As snow or 
ice will keep, in a good ice-house, two and sometimes three 
years, it were advisable to have it large enough, and always 
to fill it when an opportunity ofl^ers, to guard against a casual 
scarcity. For an ordinary-sized family, a house about ten 
feet in diameter, and fifteen feet deep, will be sufficient ; for 
larger families the house must be larger, or for smaller fami- 
lies, a well of six feet in diameter, and ten deep, may be 
sufficient. 

FILLING THE HOUSE. 

When either snow or ice can be got, begin by laying a good 
coat of straw on the bottom, and up part of the sides ; if snow, 
throw it in, and let it be well beaten together, and so proceed, 
until the house be full. If ice, prefer the thinnest (that is, 
about an inch thick) ; break it as finely as possible, with clubs 
and mallets at the entrance ; put it also in, and let two or 
three men be employed in the house, packing and beating it 
closely together with rammers. As the operation proceeds, 
sprinkle occasionally a little water over the whole, which will 
make it freeze together in a solid body. The whole art of 
keeping ice simply consists in packing it closely, and defending 
it from the action of atmospheric air. 

The house being full, let the doors be shut up, and the 
spaces between each packed full of straw. For security, 



J^G4 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [DeC, 

have the outer door locked, and the joints between the door 
and casement painted over with a thick coat of coarse paint, 
or strong Hme-wash. It will be unnecessary to disturb it 
afterwards, until opened to take out the ice ; care must be 
taken, every time that any be taken out, to have the doors all 
shut, and the spaces filled up again with the straw. It should 
be taken out as expeditiously as possible, and one person 
should carry the ice to the kitchen, or wine cellar, while an- 
other renders the house secure again. 

When we consider the rapid progress which science is 
making, it is not improbable that a substitute may be found, 
grounded upon chemical principles, to answer all the purposes 
of ice in domestic cookery. An apothecary of Caen, in Nor- 
mandy, is asserted to have discovered a method of procuring 
ice at all seasons of the year, by mixing four pounds of sul- 
phuric acid (oil of vitriol) 36 degrees, with five pounds of sulphate 
of soda (Glauber salts in powder). This mixture must be 
made in an earthenware or china vessel, and tlie water which 
it is intended to congeal must be put in it, in a separate vessel, 
wrapped round with flannel, cotton, thick paper, or some 
other non-conductor of heat, and the operation must be re- 
peated three times on the same body of water. 

Some people put salt with the ice as the house is filling, 
but this is quite unnecessary ; it will consolidate as well without 
it as with it. 

TO KEEP ICE IN STACKS. 

For those who have not 
the convenience of an ice- 
house, and yet are desi- 
rous of having ice at 
times, the following plan 
will be found to answer, 
and would be a great im- 
provement to the shooting 
boxes or summer retreats 
of gentlemen, and could 
be obtain' d at a trifling 
expense. Prepare a cir- 




Dec] 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



2Go 



cular elevated platform (A) about a foot above the level of the 
gi'ound upon which pile the ice or snow in a conical form, dur- 
ing a hard frost, and add a little water, as the building goes on. 
Over this cone, wheaten or other straw is laid to the thickness 
of twelve or fifteen inches (b), over this a stratum of fagot- 
wood or heath (c), and then another stratum of straw of any 
sort (d) ; let this outer coat be of a good thickness, and well 
secured down with straw-ropes, similar to the way of securing 
thatch on wheat or hay-stacks ; over the whole a coat of turf 
may be put. In this simple way, ice will keep all the summer 
well. Expose it to the air as short a time as possible, when 
any of the ice is taking out for use. 

The use of ice has been long known among the nations of 
Europe. Daines Barrington says, that the Romans disco- 
vered the use of ice for cooling liquors at the time when they 
began to force fruits, and adds, as a singular coincidence, the 
coeval invention of these arts in England. He says, that 
Charles the Second had the first ice-house, and also the first 
hot-houses, ever built in this country. At the installation- 
dinner, given at Windsor, on the twenty-third of April, 1667, 
there were cherries, strawberries, and ice-creams. But Swit^ser 
thinks, that the uses of ice must have long before been intro- 
duced from the continent. 

Various have been the methods adopted by gardeners for 
the preparation and keeping of ice during the hot months of 
summer, the complaint being general, that it melts away too 
rapidly ; to obviate this defect, Mr. Young, of Wilford House, 
near Nottingham, has, in the Gardeners' Magazine, recom- 
mended the following method: — 

In the months of December or January, when the water- 
pools are frozen to a sufficient thickness, say one or two 
inches, proceed to break the ice in pieces, and draw it oft 
the water with iron hooks, conveying it to the ice-house in 
carts, as quickly as possible. Before throwing it into the 
house, three or four men should be employed to break it in 
small pieces, about the size of common road-metal. Then 
carry it into the house, where two men should be again 
employed in pounding it almost to powder. Lay the bottom 
and the sides of the house with a layer of wheat-straw, three 

2 M 



SG6 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [DeC, 

or four inches thick. After there are about two feet of ice 
thus pounded, take ten pounds of salt, and dissolve it in ten 
gallons of boiling water. When the salt is sufBciently dis- 
solved, pour it on the ice through a common garden watering- 
pot ; thus going on regularly every two feet, watering, and 
laying the sides with straw till the house is filled, finishing 
with a double quantity of the salt water. After it has been in 
eight days, and when it has subsided, fill up closely with 
small bundles of straw, to exclude all air as far as possible. 

An ice-house filled in this manner will be found, when 
opened in summer, to be as firm as rock, and to require at all 
times the force of a pick-axe to break it up. It w\\\ be found 
to keep three times longer than the common method of filling 
ice-houses, and more suitable for being received from the ice- 
house for use, as it will keep three times longer when exposed 
to the air. 

It appears, however, from a communication inserted in the 
same periodical, from Mr. Saunders, Gardener at Luscombe, 
in Devonshire, that a regular and plentiful supply of ice may 
be obtained without the aid of salt. The following is the 
method which he adopts : — As soon as the ice is frozen to a 
proper thickness, it is conveyed to the ice-house, where a sufiS- 
cient number of men are ready to proceed to break it in small 
pieces ; then they throw it into the house, where three or four 
men more are employed pounding it, till a sufficient quantity 
of powder is obtained to prevent any part of it being hollow. 
In this manner I proceed till the house and entrance, or pas- 
sage to the house, is completely filled. The ice which the pas- 
sage contains, furnishes a supply for six or eight weeks ; at the 
expiration of which time the house is opened, and a quantity 
of straw taken into it, sufficient to fill the cavity that will then 
be found between the ice and the wall, and also to lie one 
bundle thick over the top of the ice. 



THE 

PRODUCTIONS 

or THB 

CULINARY GARDEN 

FOR THE YEAR. 



JANUARY. 


Cabbages of sorts ({f a mild winter) 


Spinach (in mild seasotu) 


Savoys 


Sorrel {in do.) 


Borecoles 


White Beet (in do.) 


Brussels-sprouts 


Onions 


Kidney or French beans for harricots, 


Leeks 


from tlie seed-room 


Garlic 


Peas for soups, from do. 


Eschalot 


Totatoes 


Rocambole 


Jerusalem Artichokes 


Lettuce « 


TurHips 


Endive 


Carrota 


Celery 


Parsnepa 


American Cress 


Re4 Beet 


Winter do. 


Skirret 


Parsley, {if protected) 


Salsafy 


Horse-radish 


Scorzonera 


Fennel, dried 


Marjoram, dried 


Dill, do. 


Savory, do. 


Chervil, do. 


Mint, do. 


Thyme, green or dried 


Basil, do. 


Sage, do. 


Anise seed 


Rosemary, do. 


Coriander do. 


Lavender, do. 


Caraway do. 


Camomile, dried 


Mushrooms 


Samphire {seldom cultivated^ 


Turnip-rooted celery 


Red Cabbage 


FEBRUARY. 


Cabbage of sorts ((/* a mild winter) 


Jerusalem Artichokes 


Savoys 


Turnips 


Borecoles 


Carrots 


Brussels-sprouts 


Parsneps 


Cabbage-Coleworti (1/ a mild winter) 


Red Beet 


Broccolis 


Skirret 


French or Kidney Beans for harricots 


Salsafy 


Peas for soups, ftom the seed-room 


Scorzonera 


Potatoes 


Marjoram, dried 



268 



THE PRACTICAL OARUENER. 



Babil, dried 
Anise seed 
Coriander do. 
Caraway do. 

Spinach (// a mild winter) 

Onions 

Leeks 

Garlic 

I'^schalot 

Rocambole 

Lettuce 

Endive 

Celery 



American Cress 
Winter do. 

Parsley (if a mild winter) 

Horse-radish 

Fennel, dried 

Dill, do. 

Chervil, do. 

Thyme, green or dried 

Sage, do. 

Rosemary, do. 

Camomile, dried floweis ol 

Mushrooms 

Red cabbage 



MARCH 



Brussels-sprouts 

Borecoles 

Broccolis 

French Beans, for harricots, from the 

seed-room 
Teas for soups, do. 
Potatoes 

Jerusalem Artichokes 
Onions 

Welsh onions, from the open ground 

Lettuce 

Endive 

Celery 

Parsley 

Horse-radish 

Fennel, dried 

Dill, do. 

Chervil, do. 

Marjoram, do. 

Basil, do. 

Mint, do. 



Savory, dried 

Turnips 

Carrots 

Red Beet 

Parsneps 

Skirret 

Scorzonera 

Spinach {if mild wealhtf) 

GarHc 

Eschalot 

Rocambole 

American Cress 

Winter Cress 

Water Cress 

Burnet 

Thyme 

Sage 

Rosemary 
Anise seed 
Coriinder do. 
Caraway do. 



APRIL 



Brussels-sprouts 
Borecoles 
Broccolis 
Coleworts 

French Beans, for harricots, from the 

seed-room 
Peas for soups, do. 
Spinach 
Sorrel 

Onions, from the stores 
Young do. for salads 
\\ elsh Onions 
American Cress 



Winter Crew 

Burnet 

Water Cres 

Parsley 

Taragon 

Angelica 

Mushrooms 

Potatoes 

Jerxisalem Artichokeb 

Yellow Turnip 

Carrot 

Parsneps 

Red Beet 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



269 



Skirret 

Scorzonera 

Salsafy 

Garlic 

Eschalots 

Rocambole 

Lettuce 

Endive 



Celery 

Horse-radish 

Thyme 

Mint 

Sage 

Rosemary 
Tansey 



MAY. 



Early Cabbage 
Cauliflowers 
Broccolis 
Coleworts 

Young Peas, though rarely, at the end 

of the month 
Potatoes 

Jerusalem Artichokes 
Turnips 
Carrots 
Red Beet 
Lettuce 
Endive 
Celery 
Succory 
Taragon 
Thyme 
Sage 
Mint 
Morel 

Mushrooms, from beds 



Young Radishes 

Spinach 

Sorrel 

Onions, from the stores 
Onions, young, for salads 
Leeks 

Welsh Onions 
Chives 
Garlic 
Eschalots 

Asparagus 1 perfection 
Sea-kale 3 

Salads of all kinds in perfection 

Parsley 

Purslane 

Horse-radish 

Tansey 

Costmary 

Rhubarb, blanched or otherwise 

Angelica 

Anise 



JUNE 



Cabbage "J perfection 
Cauliflowers 3 
Kidney -beans 
Peas 

Garden-beans 

Old Potatoes, from the stores 
New Potatoes 

Asparagus J ^.j^,^ ^^^j.^ ^^^^j^ 

Sea-kale 3 

Lettuce 

Parsley 

Fennel 

Dill 

Marygold 
Rhubarb 
Angelica 

Morels, from their natural habitats 
Turnips 



from the stores 



Carrots 
Radishes 
Spinach 
Sorrel 
Chives 

Young Onions 
Rocambole ) 
Garlic > 
Small Salads 
Purslane 
Taragon 
Horse-radish 
Thyme 
Sage 
Mint 
Savory 
Basil 

Mushrooms, from beds in the open an 



270 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Cabbbage ^ 

Cauliflowers / 

Peas \ in perfection 

Beans V 

Kidney-beans ^ 

Spinach 

Sorrel 

White-beet 

Small Salads 

Lettuce 

Radishes 

Indian-cress 

Marygold 

Borage 

Fennel 

Angelica Stalks 
Gourds 

All Pot-herbs and Salads in perfection 
Mushrooms, from ridges 



JULY. 

New Potatoes 

Turnips 
Carrota 
Radishes 
Onions, bulbed 
Onions, young, for Salading 
Artichokes 
Ahsanders 
Rampion 
Parsley 
Purslane 
Thyme 
Sage 
Mint 

Balm, and all other herbs 
Radish-Pods > 
Cucumbers J P'^''^'"^ 
Morels, from their native habitata 



AUGUST 



Cabbage 

Cauliflowers 

Broccolis 

Peas 

Beans 

Kidney-beans 
Spinach 

White-beet, for chard 

Sorrel 

Artichoke 

Cardoon 

Rampion 

Parsley 

Purslane 

Indian-cress 

Marygold 

Caraway ) 

Anise i 

Gourds, of all sorts 

Love-apples 

Egg-plant 

Capsicum 

Truffles, from woods 

Potatoes 

Turnips 



Carrots 
Radishes 

Jerusalem Artichokes (seldom lued at thli 

season) 
Red Beet 
Onions, bulbed 
Do. small, for salad 
Eschalots 
Garlic 
Rocambole 
Small Salads 
Lettuce 
Endive 
Radishes 
Borage 
Fennel 
Thyme 
Sage 
Mint 

Balm, and all other herbs, green or dry 
Radish Pods ) 
Cucumbers \ for p.ckhng 
Mushrooms, from garden-beds and fieldf 
Champignons, from open pasture*. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



SEPTEMBER 



Cabbage 

Cauliflower 

Broccolis 

Peas 

Beans 

Kidney-beans 

Onions 

Eschalots 

Garlic 

Rocambole 

Leeks 

Small Salads 

Endive 

Lettuce 

Celery 

Fennel 

Chervil 

Gourds and Pumpkins 
Love-apple 
Capsicum 
Egg-plant 

Mushrooms, from beds and fields 

Truffles, from woods 

Morels, from their natural habitats 



Potatoes 
Turnips 
Carrots 
Parsneps 

Skirret, and all other roota 

Spinach 

Wliite Beet, for chard 

Sorrel 

Artichokes 

Cardoons 

Rampion 

Taragon 

Parsley 

Horse-radish 

Indian-cress 

Mary gold 

Thyme 

Sage 

Mint, and all other herbs 
Red Cabbage ^ 
Radish Pods > for pickKng 
Cucumbers J 

Champignons, and all the eatable Fungi, 
in perfection. 



OCTOBER 



C'abbages 

Cauliflowers 

Broccolis 

Potatoes 

Turnips 

Jerusalem Artichokes 
Red Beet 
Spinach 

White Beet, for chard 

Leeks 

Garlic 

Eschalots 

Rocambole 

Winter-cress 

Burnet 

Indian-cress 

Marygold 

Gourds 

Pumpkins 

Love-apple 



Beans 

Kidney-beans, {if favourable weather) 
Carrots 

Radishes, of all sorts 

Skirret 

Sal^afy 

Scorzonera 

Sorrel 

Onions 

Celery 

Small Salads 

Endive 

Lettuce 

Saccory 

Parsley 

Horse-radish 

Fennel 

Thyme 

Sage 

Mint, and all other herbs 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENEJl. 



Capsicum 
Egg-plant 
Mushrooms 
Peas 



Cabbages 

Cauliflowers (now protected) 
Broccolis 
Brussels-Sprouts 
Winter-radish 
Jerusalem Artichokes 
Red Beet 

White Beet, for rhard 

Sorrel 

Rocambole 

Cardoons 

Rampion 

Endive 

Lettuce 

Winter-cress 

Burnet 

Thyme 

Sage 

Rosemary 
Savoys 



Cabbages 

Cauliflowers (when protected or pre- 
served) 
Broccolis 
Savoys 

Winter-radish 
Jerusalem Artichokes 
Red Beet 

White Beet, for chard, whcji protccteil 

Eschalots 

Rocambole 

Cardoons 

Winter-cress 

American do. 

Thyme 

Sage 

Rosemary 



Red Cabbage j 

Radish Pods J (or pickling 

Cucumbers 

Many of the eatable Fungi {ifmildweather.) 



idish 

dried 

seeds 

roots, as in last month- 



Brussels-Sprouts 

Borecole 

Potatoes 

Turnips 

Carrots 

Scorzonera 

Salsafy 

Skirrets 

Onions 

Leeks 

Garlic 

Celery 

Endive 

Lettuce 

Parsley 

Horse- radish. 



NOVEMBER. 

Borecoles 
Potatoes 
Turnips 
Carrots 
Skirret 
Salsafy 
Scorzone 
Spinaoli 
Onions 
Leeks 
Garlic 
Eschalot! 
Celery 
Parsley 
Horse-ra 
Fennel 
Chervil, 
Caraway 
Anise 
The edib 



DECEMBER. 



273 



SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE 

OF 

CULINARY SEEDS, 

COMPRISING THEIR VARIOUS SPECIES, AND THE PRINCIPAL VARIETIES 
WHICH ARE IN GENERAL CULTIVATION ; THEIR NATIVE PLACE OP 
GROWTH, IF INDIGENOUS ; AND IF EXOTIC, THE TIME OF THEIR 
INTRODUCTION. 



Alexanders, or Alisanders, — Smyrnium olusatrum, (^Linnceus) — belongs to the 
class and order Pcntandria Digynia, and ranks in the natural order of Umbelliferce. 
The alisander is a native of Britain, grows naturally near the sea, and is often to 
be observed naturalized, near old buildings. It w^as in more general use many years 
ago, than it is at present, an;l was much cultivated before the use of celery became 
so general. It is used as a culinary plant when blanched, and is of a warm aromatic 
quality. There is only one variety cultivated. 

Asparagus, — Asparagus nfficinaJis, [Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Hexandria Monogynia, and ranks in the natural order oi Jsphodelacc. Asparagus is a 
native of Britain, and is found on gravelly situations near the sea, as for instance in 
the vicinity of Bristol, in the isle of Portland, and Seaton Links, near Edinburgh. 
It is common on the shores of the north of Europe, and many of rhe steppes in the 
south of Russia and Poland, are covered with it; it is there eaten by the cattle as 
grass. It is so much altered in appearance and size, by cultivation, that those who 
are perfectly acquainted with it in their gardens, would not, without a considerable 
share of botanical knowledge, recognize it in its native state. 

Thii cxcelli'nt vegetable, which is in general use, not only in Britain, but over all 
the continent of Europe, and in many parts of America, has been in cultivation for 
an unknown period. 

Those who have never seen the vast loads of this vegetable daily brought during 
its season, to Covent-Garden Market, will be surprized to hear, that in the parish of 
Mortlake alone, there are computed to be above eighty acres under this crop ; and 
one gardener of the name of Biggs, has frequently forty acres under asparagus, and 
another near Deptford has eighty. The natural season of asparagus, round London, 
lasts from ten to twelve weeks ; but forced asparagus is to be had from November 
uiitil it be produced from the open ground. It brings the price of about one pound 
per hundred hca 's, during the months of November, December, January, and 
February, and in May and June, from \0s. to 2*. Qd. per hundred. 

The varieties in general cultivation are the red-topped, or Dutch, whicli is the 
strongest of the two, and the green-topped, "which is not so large, but is reckoned 
of a better flavor. The varieties in the seed catalogues, are the Battersea, Deptford, 
large GraveN.'nd, large Reading, Dutch, Cork, and early Mortlake, but they aie 
only considercil as sub -varieties of the two former. 

k-ncv.LXC \,—A»gi'Uca arcltangelica, (/>?«??.)— belongs to the class and order, Pi h- 
tandria Digynia, and ranks under the natural order of Umbellifcrcr. It is found in 

2 N 



274 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Britain, but has been probably naturalized ; it is also common in Lapland and 
Iceland. It appears to have been cultivated in England before 1568. This vegetable 
IS also nearly supplanted by the more general use of celery, and like the Alisaiiders, 
is now little used in domestic cookery. The leaf-stalks are now only used for candying, 
and for this purpose, are in perfection in May. It is more generally used in medicine 
than in cookery. The roots were formerly blanched and eaten like celery. Th« 
young shoots are in great esteem amongst the Laplanders, who, in order to add to the 
pungency of the tobacco, which they are in the habit of using, mix with it the roots 
of Angelica Archungelice, but if this species be not at hand, they substitute those of 
Augdicn sijhestris. It appears to be a very hardy plant, as according to the Lachesit 
Lajiponica, it grows freely within 1100 feet of the line of perpetual snow. In Nor- 
way, bread is sometimes made of the roots. 

Anise, — Pimpinella anisum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order of Pentandria 
Trigynid, and natural order of Umbcllifero'. It is a native of Egypt, and introduced 
in 1551. A small portion of it is sufficient for a large family, being only cultivated for 
a garnish, and sometimes used for seasoning. It is extensively cultivated in Malta 
and Spain, and the seeds are thence imported into this country for distillation and 
expression. It is also used in medicine with beneficial effects. 

Basil, — Ocymum basilicuni and Ocymum minimum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class 
and order Didyuamia Gymnospe'rmia, and natural order of Labiatce. The former 
is a native of the East Indies, and was introduced in 1548 ; tlie leaves are used 
occasionally, both in salails and soups. The latter is also a native of the East Indies, 
and was introduced in 1573. The seeds of both sorts are seldom ripened in England, 
and are by the seeds-nun, procured from Italy. 

Bi.AX, — Vicic. faba, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Diadelphia De- 
cundria, and natural order Leguminoso". The bean is a native of Egypt, and other 
parts of the e »st. One variety, the Mazagan, is indigenous to Mazagan, a Portu- 
guese settleuK III on the African coast. The bean has been known in this country 
from time iwin;emonal, and it is supposed to have been introduced by the Romans. 
There arc many varieties cultivated, some of them differing so little in their charac- 
teristics, as to be scarcely distinguished. The following are the best : — Early small 
mazagan, early long-pod, sword long-pod, Turkey long-pod, early small Lisbon, 
large long-pod, broad Spanish, Windsor broad, large Kentish Windsor, Taylor's 
Windsor, Sandwich, Tokar, white blossomed, green nonpareil, Mumford, dwarf- 
cluster, fan or bog, and the new red blossomed. Of these, the three former are 
the earliest, the others, excepting the dwarf-cluster, fan or bog, are for principal 
crops. The dwarf-cluster, (an or bog, is for cultivation in borders, and in small 
gardens, when there ii a paucity of room, as it occupies little space. DeUiunay in L« 
bon Jardinier, describes a new sort cultivated about Paris, called the green bean of 
China. We cannot, however, give an opinion of its merits, never having seen it 
It is, however, described as a good bean, late, but productive, and the seeds are said 
to remain green, even after being ripe and dried. 

Beans, Kidney ov French, — Phaseolus vulgaris, (Linn.) — belonging to the class 
and order Diadelphia Dccandria, and natural order of Leguminosrr. It is a native 
of India, and introduceil in 1579 or earlier, and cultivated in our gardens as a tender 
and much-admired esculent ; the parts used, are the pods before they have arrived 
at maturity. In France, and other parts of the continent, as well as in America, 
they cultivate them in the fields, and it has been suggested, that the same practice 
would be beneficial in this country, as they will grow in any tolerably good soil, and 
become particularly useful in times of scarcity, either in their green state, or dried 
andgro\iii(l into flour. On the continent, the ripe seeds are used in cookery, forming 
what are called harricots of different kinds, and are also put into some sorts of soups. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



275 



At the end of the season the crop is gathered, haulm and all, and after being pro- 
perly dried, they are stacked, and the seeds threshed out when wanted. 

The sorts cultivated are the early yellow dwarf, early red speckled, early black or 
negro, early white, Battersea white, Canterbury white, black speckled, brown 
speckled, dun coloured, striped, tawny, large white, dwarf, China. The first four 
are generally used for forcing, and the Battersea and Canterbury are generally pre- 
ferred by the London market-gardeners for general crops for sale, as being prohfic 
bearers. 

Beans, Kidney, or Scarlet and while runners, — Phaseolus multifiorus, {Linn.) — is 
a native of South America, and introduced in 1G33. It is used for all the purposes 
of the last, but differing from it so much in its botanical character, as to constit>ite 
a distinct species. It differs also in its culture on account of its being a climbing 
plant, and requiting to be supported by means of stakes, trellices, or other means. 
It will grow on the grDund, as the other kinJs, but arrives at greater perfection when 
supported by sticks or strings. In cottages and small gardens, they are successfully 
cultivated, by planting them in rows to hide any disagreeable object, or they are 
trained over arbors, or up the front and ends of the cottages. If supplied plentifully 
with water, and the pods picked off as they are fit for use, they will continue a useful 
ornament for many weeks. The frost being the only thing to injure them under 
these circumstances. 

The varieties of the runners are : — The scarlet, large white, white Dutch, princess 
runner, and variable runner ; of these the first is the best, and is most generally 
cultivated; next to it is the large white. The white Dutch does not last so long in 
bearing, and the last is not so much esteemed, neither is it so extensively cultivated. 
The princess runner has lately been brought into notice, itis an excelk:^. bearer, and 
the pods are used when full grown. All the sorts of French beans, are much im- 
proved by being transplanted, and can be forwarded much earlier, if reared in flat 
boxes, or in pans, and when about three inches in height, transplanted where they 
are intended to remain. None of the varieties are fit for forcing, as they all require 
too much roorp. 

Beet, Red, — Beta vulgaris, {Linn.) — belonging to the class and order Pentan- 
dria Dyginia, and natural order Chevopodeo'. Is a native of the sea-coast of the 
south of Europe, and cultivated here by Tradescant the younger, in 1656, conse- 
quently it must have been introduced at an earlier period. The roots arc used in 
salads, boiled and sliced, and also as a garnish, but particularly as a pickle. They 
are most esteemed, when their roots boil of a beautifully red colour. The roots, 
when dried and ground, are sometimes mixed and used with coffee. The seeds of 
good red- beet are difficult to be procured ; therefore, when once a gardener is in 
possession of a good sort, he ought to endeavour to save his own seed. The follow- 
ing are the sorts grown in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London : — The 
large rooted, long rooted, dwarf, turnip rooted, small red, green topped, and Cas- 
tlenaudari ; of these, the dwarf is the best, and the turnip rooted, the earliest. The 
Castlenaudari is much esteeemed on the continent, and is Siiid to have the flavour 
of a nut. 

Beet, White, — Bela Cicla^ (Linn.)— belonging to the same genus as the pre- 
ceding, but differing from it in botanical characters, and in garden uses. This specie* 
being cultivated solely for its leaves, which are used as spinach, or put into soups, 
and the mid-ribs and utalks are stewed and eaten as asparagus, under the natne of 
chard. It is a native of the sea-coasts of Spain and Portugal, and introduced in 1570, 
and cultivated by Gerrard, and Parkinson, w ho was botanical gardener to Charles the 
first. There are three varieties cultivated ; the first is the common white, the second, 
the great wliue or SwibS chard, and the third, though seldom grown in cur gardens, 



276 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



is an extremely useful agricultural root, called mangel wi'irzel, or the great German 
beet. 

Beet, Sf.a, — Beta mnritima, {Linn.) — belonging to the same genus with the two 
last, but so differing in its botanical characters, as to constitute a distinct species. 
It is a native of our sea-coasts in many places, in the Isle of Wight, Coast of Sussex, 
Western Coast, &c., is seldom cultivated in our gardens, but there is little doubt 
that it would be much improved by cultivation, and be a valuable accession to our 
spiiiaccous vegetables. 

Broccoli, — Brcusica olcracea, a sub-variety of the variety hotrytis {Linn, and 
DecandoUe) — belonging to the class and order Tetradynarnia Siliquosa, and natural 
order Crucifercr. However singular it may appear, professor DecandoUe and others 
have proved, that all the varieties of broccolis have their origin in the Brassica 
oleracea, or the common wild cabbage. Miller mentions several kinds of broccoli as 
being cultivated in his time ; he says, " the Roman, Neapolitan, and black broccoli, are 
in use, but of those, the Roman is the best." Since his time, they have wonderfully 
increased, but this is less surprising, for of all the brassica families, they are the 
most inclined to sport into varieties. They are supposed by some to have sported 
from the cauliflower, which is said to have been introduced into this country, from 
the Isle of Cyprus, about the middle of the sixteenth century. Miller seems to prefer 
them to cauliflower, as being more tender, and by many they are preferred even at 
the present time. The best collection of broccolis we have met with, is that of 
Messrs. Ronalds', of Brentford, and given as follows in the Hort. Trans. — Purple 
cape, or autumnal ; gi-een cape, or autumnal ; Grange's early cauliflower broccoli, 
green close-headed winter broccoli, early purple, early white, dwarf brown, close- 
heailcd broccoli, tall large-headed purple broccoli, cream coloured, or Portsmouth 
broccoli ; sulphur coloured broccoli, spring white, or cauliflower broccoli ; late dwarf 
close-headed purple broccoli, latest g.een, or Siberian, or " Danish broccoh. To this 
fist may be adiled, the sprouting broccoli, and Belvidere, or improved white, two 
sorts which may be considered as distinct from any of the above-mentioned sorts, and 
are in our estimation excellent. The former of these, is a hardy spring sort, and 
tiic latter, a handsomely formed and equally good one, but probably not equally 
hardy. 

Of Messrs. Ronalds' lists, the two former are nearly aUied to each other, differing 
only in colour, and the head of the second being rather larger, as well as the whole 
plant stouter than the first. The third is a well-known sort, and will amply repay 
the expense of cultivating ; the fourth is said to be rather new, and is supposed to be 
a seedling from the second ; it does not attain to a great size. The early purple is a 
good sort, but is apt to branch, if planted in too rich ground. This sort grows to 
the height of two or three feet, and is a strong growing plant. The early white is 
also a fine broccoli of a beautiful colour, and grows nearly three feet high. The 
cream-coloured, or PorL^mouth, is an excellent sort, and merits general cultivation, 
we would include it as among the best for general use. In May, 1819, a head of 
this sort, grown in the garden of the late Sir Joseph Banks, was sent to the Hort. 
Soc, which measured above two feet in circumference, and quite firm and close. 
The sulphur-coloured is a valuable sort, hardy, compact, and rather conical in 
the head. The spring white is a valuable sort, the leaves of which grow in such a 
cucuUated manner as almost to hide the flower, and serve as a shield to protect it 
from the feost common in the spring months. The two latter sorts are very hardy, 
particularly the last, which no winter can destroy. This sort for a late crop should 
1)6 planted to a large extent, as it comes into use at a season when vegetables are 
most in demand, and it may be fianted closer than any other, so that a large 
quantity may be produced on a sn.ail piece of ground. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



277 



Italian cabbage, the name by which broccohs were formerly known, must have 
been cuhivatcd in Britain at an earUcr period. It is probable, that the Romaus 
introduced it from Italy. 

Cape broccoli is said to have been introduced from the Cape of Good Hope, by the 
Hon. Marniaduke Dawnay, and first cultivated in Surrey. 

BoRECOi-K, — Brassica oleracra, var. Sabellira. — Is another family, which claims a 
common origin with the broccoli, cauliflower, &c., in the Brassica olcracea, or 
common cabbage. There are several valuable sub-varieties, more or less esteemed 
by the individuals, where they are principally grown. The sorts cultivated are as 
follow : the green borecole, Scotch kale, or Siberian borecole. This is a very hardy 
sort of kale, and although not universally cultivated in England, is still worthy of 
our attention. To cottagers and farmers a more usefid vegetable cannot be intro- 
duced in (heir little gardens, for no frost hurts rt; and if planted on ground which 
has been occupied with the early crops of peas or potatoes, it will have attained a 
considerable size before the rigour of the winter sets in. It is universally cultivated 
by the Higldanders, and is found to stand the most severe winter. It may be con- 
sidered the national vegetable of Scotland, and is the regular garnish of the boiled 
beef at weddings, curling dinners, &'c. It is surprising to see the numerous varieties 
that this sort sports into in one small cottage-garden; from twenty to thirty distinct 
varieties may be easily distinguished, by the different shades of colour's and the form 
of the leaves. The purple or brown kale is nearly allied to the last, and is equally 
liardy. The German kale, German greens, or curlies, is a beautiful variety, and 
very hardy : of this there are two sub-varieties, one of which grows close to the 
ground, the other grows much taller, and furnishes a good supply of sprouts in 
spring. This is the sort most in cultivation in the gardens in Scotland. 

The variegated borecole, and the thousand-headed cabbage, are merely curious 
varieties, but inferior to the others, in their general merits. 

The Egyptian kale, rabi kale, ragged Jack, and the Jerusalem kale, are dwarf- 
growing sorts; they resist black frosts, and come in for a late supply. The Buda 
kale, Russian kale, Prussian kale, and Manchester kale, are supposed to differ very 
little from the former. A writer, however, in the Transactions of the Horticultural 
Society, has, by blanching Buda kale, very much improved it ; and the process is 
performed nearly in the same manner as sea-kale is blanched, by inverting a flower- 
pot over it. It may be rendered more delicate by blanching, as well as any other 
kale which is treated in the same manner. As a substitute for sea-kale, it may be 
of importance ; for, by a little management, it might be had at a season when sea- 
kale cannot be procured. 

The palm borecole is not likely to be much cultivated ; it is a rambling growing 
sort, and is cultivated in the orchards of the islands of Jersey and Guernsey, by 
planting it among the fruit-trees ; and as it increases in growth, it reclines among 
the l iwer branches of the trees, and may in that case escape the frosts. We have 
grown it to the height of twelve feet by the side of a wall. 

The turnip-cabbage, or turnip-rooted borecole, is a curious variety. In a recent 
work published, two sub-varieties of this sort are mentioned, one of which has the 
turnip or bulbous part, which is the part used, growing above the surface, and in the 
other sort, it >?ruvvs under ground. The roots are cut in slices for soups, and by 
some are used like connnon turnips ; but unless they be used when they are young, 
they become rank and unpalatable. They are very hardy, and stand a severe frost, 
and require good rich ground to bring them to any profitable size. The Portugal or 
large-ribbed borecole, is not nujch used, nor does it possess any great merit. The 
Woburn kale differs from all the foregoing »orts, inasmuch as they arc propagated 



278 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER, 



by seeds, whereas this variety is propagated by cuttings. It has been grown at the 
Duke of Bedford's, at Woburn Abbey, from which place it takes its name. 

Brussels-Sprouts, — Brasslca olcracca, a sub-variety of the variety Sabaudn. 

Of this excellent vegetable we have only this one sort, which derives its name 
from the city of Brussels, where it is both much esteemed and cultivated. It ap- 
pears, by a communication to the Horticultural Society by Van Mons, that it is men- 
tioned, in the market-regulations of that place, so early as the year 1213. The top is 
different in flavour from the side-sprouts, and should, in cultivation, be taken off to 
encourage the growth of the sprouts. The plants from the circumstance of their heads 
being cut off, and their leaves falling off, need not be planted at more than eighteen 
inches each way, so that upon a small piece of ground a large produce is obtained. 

It is difficult to procure the seeds genuine, therefore it is either better to have 
them sent direct from Brussels by some confidential person, or after having once 
obtained a good sort, to save the seeds for future use. Van Mons says, that it is 
usual to save the seeds indiscriminately from plants, which have not been topped, 
but he intends in future to save only from those plants which have been topped. 
The principal consideration, however, in the saving of this seed, as well as that of 
all other plants of the biassica tribe, is to place them where there is no chance 
of their being impregnated by the farina of other plants of the brassica family. 
This is, however, very difficult to be accompUshed in the vicinity of an apiary, as 
the bees are apt to carry the farina of the brassica tribes to their different varieties, 
and thereby give a spurious character to the seed collected from llu in. 

Borage, — Borago officinalis, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pentandria 
Monogijnia, and to the natural order Boraginea-. It is a native of Britain, and 
is not unfrequently met with in waste places. It is seldom used in niodcrn cookery, 
although formerly it was in high repute. The juice affords nitre, and the withered 
stems have been observed to burn like match-paper. It is used in England as one 
of the components of a particular beverage, known by the appellation of a coo) 
tankard. 

Burnet, — Poieriuvi Sanguis orha, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order ^/o/i^z-tiVi 
Puli/andria, and ranks in the natural order of Rosacece. Is a native of Britain, 
growing on dry chalky pastures. The leaves are sometimes used in salads, and 
occasionally in soups. It was formerly in much repute, but at present it is almost 
quite disregarded. It was cultivated as a food for cattle for some years, on the 
authority and recommendation of Bartholomew Rocque, a farmer at Walhani Green, 
near London. 

Blessed Thistle, — Ccntauria hcncdicla, (Lin/i.) — belonging to the class and 
order Syngenesi i Frustranca, and natural order of Ci/narocepfiala. Is a native of 
Spain and the Levant, and introduced in 151S. It has never been much in use as 
a culinary vegetable, but as a medicinal plant it was hcM in high repute. It is now 
neglected both in medicine and rural economy. 

Bladder-Campion, — Silene inflata. [Ilorlus Kcwcnsis), Cucubnlns bihcn. {Linn.) 
— belonging to the class and order Decandi i i Trigynia and natural order Caryo- 
phyllecc. Is a native of Britain, and often found on the sea-shore. This plant waa 
also much used formerly, but of late years has been neglected. The young tops 
were used, when boiled, nearly in the same manner as asparagus. 

Cabbage, common or white, Brassica oleracea, var. of capitatce, [Linn, and Dcvan- 
doVc,) — belongs to the class and order Tetradynamia SHiquosa and natural order 
Cruciferce. The Brassica oleracea, of which this is a cultivated variety, is a native 
of some of our sea-shores. Cabbages seem to have been one of the earliest vege- 
tablei which attracted the attention of mankind. They were well known and 



THE CULINARY GARDEN 



279 



esteemed by the Romans, who probably introduced the cultivation of them into this 
country, bringing with them from Italy some of the sorts then cultivated by them. 

The varieties of Brass'va olcracia var. capitata, or white cabbage, cultivated in 
our gardens, are, the small early dwarf, early dwarf York, large early ditto, early 
dwarf sugar-loaf, large sugar-loaf, East Ham, West Ham, early Battersea, late 
ditto, early Imperial, Pentonville, Flaw's early, Deptford, Emperor, Antwerp, 
Russian, early London, large hollow sugar-loaf, large oblong hollow, large-round 
winter white, drum-head, round Scotch or white Strasburg, Baimbridge's flat Dutch. 
Of these, the first five are the best for early crops, and also for the latter ones. 
The last is an excellent sort for early summer use. The next five are good for 
principal summer crops. The Pentonville is a curious cabbage, wrinkled like the 
;avoy, and very tender and white ; it never closes nor becomes hard. It is deci- 
dedly the bes^ for summer use ; it continues delicate and well-flavoured when all 
others are rank and ill-tasted. Flaw's early, is also a good sort for either early or 
late crops ; the rest may be cultivated for summer and autumn uses, and have each 
their respective merits. The drum-head and round Scotch are generally cultivated 
in fields for cattle. From the last of these two is prepared the sauer kraut of the 
Germans. 

Cabbage, red, — Brassica oleracia, var. rubra, {Linn.) — belongs to the same 
natural and artificial class and order with the last-mentioned, and is another variety 
sported from the original Brassica oleracia. It is chiefly used for pickling and gar- 
nishing. The principal varieties cultivated are, the large red or red Dutch, dwarf 
red, and the Aberdeen red. The first is usually cultivated in market-gardens. The 
second is the best, and is usually grown in the gardens of gentlemen, and is most 
esteemed for its bea>itiful colour. The third is much cultivated for culinary purposes 
by the natives of Aberdeenshire, and some parts of the North of Scotland, and is an 
ingredient in the national dish, " TJie kale brose." 

Cauliflower, — Brassica oleracia, var. botrytis. {Linn, and Decandolle,) is 
another variety originating in the Bnudca oleracia, and a much-esteemed culi- 
nary vegetable, being, according to Dr. Johnson, the best flower that grows in the 
garden. Cauliflower was first introduced to this country from the isle of Cyprus, 
about the middle of the sixteenth century. The culture of it was little attended to 
till the beginning of the seventeenth; and previous to the French Revolution, cauli- 
flower-sced was regularly sent to Holland, and even to France; at the present 
day, English seed is preferred to that of the growth of either of those countries. 
The same remark which we made regarding the quantity of asparagus, cultivated 
round the metropolis for the supply of Covent-garden Market, &c., will also apply 
to the cultivators of the cauliflower, who have often many acres under this crop. 

The sub-varieties in cultivation are the early, the late, and the red cauliflower; 
of these three, we have been unable to discover much difference in point of quality. 
Their distinctions are too trifling to merit the attention of the practical horticulturist - 
Like the rest of the brassica tribe, they are apt to sport into degenerate varieties 
from seed. " An action for damages was brought in Westminster Hall above a hun- 
dred years ago, against an innocent, but unfortunate gardener, for selling caul=- 
flower-seed which only produced long-leaved cabbages. This circumstance has been 
particularly noticed by Linnaus, in his celebrated treatise on the sexes of plants, the 
* Sponsalia Plantanim.' " 

Capsicum, Linn.—K genus belonging to the class and order Pentandria monogy- 
nia, and natural order Solanaccre. There are three species in cultivation, and of 
these, there are many varieties. 

Of these species, the Capsicum annuam, or Guinea-pepper, is, with its varieties, 
mott generally cultivated. It is a native of India. It was introduced here in 1548, 



280 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



and cultivated by Gerrard. The unripe, or green pods, are used for pickling, and 
in their ripe state form a spice of the hottest quality, known by the name of Cayenne 
pepper. Of this species, there are varieties differing extremely in their fruit, as in 
the long-podded annual kind, with oblong pendulous or hanging scarlet-pods ; with 
oblong pendulous yellow pods ; with upright oblong scarlet pods ; with short upright 
pods ; with divided pods ; and with long very taper pods ; all of which often rise 
from the same seed of the common long-podded, red or yellow sort, rarely differing 
from each other in color, but often in the size, and position of their growth. The 
other species vary in the same manner. 

The next species is the Capsicum cerasiforme (Ilortus Kewensis), Is a native of 
the West Indies, introduced in 1759, and is used for the same purposes as the last. 
The varieties of this species differ in size, color, and shape. They are generally of 
a globular or cherry-shape, from which they derive their name ; but are sometimes 
heart-shaped, bell-shaped, or angular, and are both red and yellow. 

The third species is Capsicum prossum, or bell-pepper. Is a native of India, and 
was introduced in 1759. Is a biennial ; the fruit is used for the same purposes as the 
foregoing, and by some it is preferred for pickling, the skin being thick, pulpy, and 
tender. 

Caruoon or Chardoon, — Cynaria Cardunculus, (Liun.) — belonging to the class and 
order Sipige/n-sin Polt/gamia /Equalis, and natural order Cynaroccphala. Is a native 
of Candia, and introduced into this country in 1658. It nearly approaches to the arti- 
choke in appearance, and belongs to the same family. It is rather a singular circum- 
stance, that it should be known in all the European languages by the same rame. 
This plant is used in a variety of ways, particularly in French cookery. There is 
only one variety cultivated in our gardens, and that one not very generally. Mr. Neil 
says, that the native prickly sort is cultivated on the continent, under the name of 
cardoon of Tours, and is accounted preferable to the common sort which is cultivated 
in our gardens. It is truly singular, that that sort, whatever may be its qualities, has 
not been introduced into England. Ours is sold in the seed-shops for the Spanisli 
cardoon. 

Carrot, — Daucm rarota, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Penlandria 
Digijuia, and natural order UmbelUfercc. Is a native of Britain, found in chalky 
pastures and in waste places in almost every part of the kingdom. The effects of 
cultivation have entirely altered the appearance of its root, which is the part used. 
In its natural state, it is small, hard, and dry, of a white color, and strong flavor. 
In its cultivated state, the root becomes large, succulent, and of a red or yellowish 
color. We have no certain data to denote the precise time that carrots were first 
cultivated in this country ; but in the lime of Henry the Eighth, Hume, the historian, 
says, that neither ** salads, carrots, turnips, nor other edible roots were produced 
in England." Previously to that time, these vegetables were imported from Holland 
and Flanders. That they did not originate in this country, like the sea-kale, is pretty 
evident from the above quotation. The leaves of carrots were held in esteem by the 
ladies, even of the gay court of Charles the First, for Parkinson, the botanic gardener 
of that monarch, informs us, that they wore them instead of feathers. The carrot is 
not an article only of garden proiluce. but is extensively cultivated in fields for cattle. 
The varieties cultivated are the following: — early red horn, common early horn, 
long horn, long white, yellow, long yellow, long orange, long red, long purple, 
and the Alteringham carrot. The two first are generally sown for the first crops ; but 
the Alteringham is equally early, and in our opinion a much better carrot, indeed, 
It is the best sort in the country. The long white yellow is an excellent and rather 
curious variety, it eats sweet, and looks beautiful when dressed : it is good for 
autumn use, but does not keep well in store. Of its merits, in regard to economy, 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



281 



we liavc not yet had sufficient time to form a decision. The Alteringham is originally 
from Chesliire, and for general culture is the best. The long red is a large sort 
cultivated chiefly for cattle, and by farmers, for colouring butter. The orange, next 
to the Alteringham, is best for a general crop, and affords a variety in colour. 

The purple carrot, though mentioned by some of the early writers on horticulture, 
seems to have been long disused in this country. It is well known in France, as the 
Carrotte violette ; the root is thick at the top, and tapers suddenly. The outer part of 
the flesh, for about a quarter of an inch in thickness, is a deep purple, the inner part 
a light yellow, and the heart a dark yellow, but it is sometimes light also, divided 
from the flesh by a dark yellow ring. It is only cultivated on account of its singular 
appearance. The flavor is not so good as any of the others in cultivation. The 
French, however, esteem it highly, but consider it as apt to run to seed the same 
year in which it is sown. 

Caraway, — Carum carui, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pentandria 
Trigynia, and natural order UmbeHifercc. Is a native of Britain, and has been 
long cultivated. The seeds are used in confectionery and medicine. In the north, 
they often put them into cheese in the same manner as the Dutch ; the Danes and 
Russians sprinkle the tops of their loaves with them. In Parkinson's time, the roots 
were eaten as parsneps, and by him preferred to that vegetable. They are not now 
used. The seed, which is much used by distillers, and in medicine, is grown chiefly 
in Essex. 

Celery, — Jpium graveolcns, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pen- 
tandria Digynid, and natural order Umhellifcrce. Is a native of Britain. It grows 
naturally in ditches, and generally near the sea. This vegetable is much im- 
proved by cultivation. The taste, in its natural state, is rank, and the whole 
plant of a coa-ise habit ; indeed, in that state it is suspected to contain some of the 
narcotic properties of its near associates, (Enanthc, Phellandrium, &c. It is unsafe 
to gather it in its natural state, as many fatal instances are on record of people 
having been poisoned by eating plants of the two genera above-mentioned, by mis- 
taking them for celery. The stalks, when blanched, are used raw as a salad, and 
in their unblanched state, are used in domestic cookery. It is in general use over 
almost all Europe. The turnip-rooted sort, or celeriac, is in' general use among the 
Germans. 

The sorts in cultivation in our gardens are, the upright Italian, large hollow up- 
right, solid upright, large red-stalked upright, and the turnip-rooted, or celeriac. 
The first three sorts are preferable for general crops ; the fourth is fit for stewing, 
and is hardy enough to stand a severe winter. The celeriac is cultivated for its 
roots, which may be preserved all winter in sand, or by any other ordinary means. 
It is much cultivated about Hamburg, and is thence imported to the London 
market. 

Chervil, — Si andix Cerefolium, (Ijinn.) — belongs to the class and order Pentan- 
dria Digynia, and natural order UmbeUifcm. Is a native of Europe, but often 
found naturalized in many parts of England. Is used as a salad, and for garnish- 
ing; for the latter use there is a sort more curled in the leaves, which is to be pre- 
ferred, and which is grown in all the Paris gardens. It is sold in our seed-shops 
under the name of curled chervil. 

Clary, — Salma Sclaren, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Diandria Mono- 
gynia, and natural order Lahiatce. Is a native of Italy, and introduced here in 
1562. It is seldom used. 

Coriander, — Coriandrum sativum, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pen- 
tandria Digynia, and natural order Umhellifercc. Is a native of the East, but in- 
troduced at an early period into England, and is now naturalized in many parts of 

2 o 



2S2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



it. It is sometimes used as a salad, and as an ingredient of soups. In Essex, and 
some other places, it is extensively cultivated for the seed, which is used by confec • 
tioners, druggists, and distillers. 

Corn-salad, or Lamb-lettuce, — Valeriana Lontsta, (Linn.) — belongs to the 
class and order Triandria Monogynia, and natural order Dipsaceee. Is a native of 
Britain, and was cultivated as a salad in the days of Gerrard, who says, that fo- 
reigners, while in England, using this salad, were the cause of its being cultivated in 
our gardens. It has long been a favorite salad in France, but is now little used here. 

Cress, American, — Erysimum prcrcox. (Smith.) — belongs to the class and order 
Tetradynamia Siliquosa, and natural order Crucifercp. Is a native of Britain, grow- 
ing by the sides of ditches, and long supposed to be a variety of the Erysimum Bar- 
haria. It is a biennial, fonning an excellent and useful addition to our winter and 
spring salads, being extremely hardy, and is fit for use during the whole of the 
winter, if grown in any sheltered spot- It is sold in the seed-shops under the names 
of American cress, black cress, and French cress. 

Cress, winter, — Erysimum Barbaria, (Linn, and Smith,) Barharia Vulgaris 
(Unrt. Kew.) — belongs to the same class and order with the last species. This is found 
in situations similar, and often with the latter, by which reason they have been, till 
lately, confounded together. It is also a useful and hardy salad. 

Cress, garden, — Lcpidium sativum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Te- 
tradynamia siliquosa, and natural order Cruci/era. Its native country is unknown, 
but it has been cultivated in this country since 1548. It is the principal of all the 
small salads, and is in very general cultivation. The varieties in culture are, the 
common plain-leaved cress ; this is most extensively cultivated, but not by any means 
so fine as the Normandy or curled cress, which is not only a better salad and gar- 
nish, but much hardier and not so apt to run up into seed. If sown at the bottom 
of a south wall, it will stand all the winter, and come in at the spring with the Ame- 
rican and winter cresses already noticed. It is not so good, however, for forcing as 
the common cress, being more likely to damp, in consequence of its larger and 
more succulent growth, unless it be sown very thin. The other sort of cress cul- 
tivated is, the broad-leaved; it is not much grown for a salad, but generally for rear- 
ing turkies, S:c. 

Cress, Indian, or Nasturtium, — Tropoeolum magus, (Linn.) — belongs to the 
class and order Octandria monogynia, and natural order Geraniaceo". Is a native of 
Peru, and cultivated here since 1686. The Tropoeolum minus was introduced from 
Peru nearly a century before this sort, but, owing to its small size, is not cultivated 
for culinary purposes. The Tropoeolum mngus is here treated as an annual, but in its 
own country lasts for several years. The flowers are used for garnishing, and some- 
times, with the young leaves, as a salad. The berries are gathered green, and pickled, 
and are in that fonn a good substitute for capers. 

Dandelion, — Leoyitodon Taraxacum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Syngenesia jEqualis, and to the natural order Cichoracea. Is a native of Britain, 
and a well-known weed. When blanched, however, it makes an excellent addition 
to our spring salads ; and the roots are considered as good a substitute for coffee as 
chiccory. It may be stored in cellars, or barrels, fike chiccory, for producing winter 
salads. 

Dill, — Anethum graveokns, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pentandria 
Trigynia, and natural order Umhellifera. Is a native of Spain, and introduced in 
1570. It is used in soups and sauces, and other culinary preparations. It is not 
generally cultivated. 

Egg-plant, — Solanum Melongena, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pen- 
iandria Monogynia, and natural order of Solanacea. Is a native of Africa, and in 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



283 



troduced in 1597. It is only cultivated in this country as an ornamental annual. In 
France and Italy, however, it is much used in cookery, and is nearly as much 
admired as the love-apple. 

Endive, — ('ichorium Endivia, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Syngenesia 
/Equalis, and natural order Cichoracece. Is a native of China and Japan, and intro- 
duced in 1548. Is used as a salad, and for stewing. It is in much repute, both in 
Britain and on the continent. The varieties most generally cultivated are, the green 
curled-leaved, white curled-leaved, and broad-leaved Batavian. The former is most 
generally cultivated for principal crops. The second sort is a more delicate plant, 
and apt to damp off in wet weather. The third is not calculated to stand much 
frost, but for early autumnal use is much admired. 

Fennel, — Anethum Ffeuicuhm, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pentan- 
dria Tryginia, and natural order UmhellifercE. Its native place is not exactly known, 
but it is now naturaUzed in Britain, and particularly in England. It is sometimes 
met with in chalky soils in Hampshire, Kent, and Surrey. It is one of the oldest 
inmates of the gardens, and is used in salads and for garnishes, and, when boiled, 
enters into many kinds of fish-sauces. The varieties cultivated are, the common or 
sweet, the dark green-leaved, and the dwarf. The latter sort has long been no- 
ticed, but not yet generally cultivated. Mi-. Neil observes, that in consequence of 
" its being more tender than the common fennel, and often perishing in winter, hor- 
ticultural writers have described it as an annual, under the name of Jnethum Sege- 
tum, French or Azorian Finochio, or annual dill, and advise the culture of it thus : 
'To be planted from June till November, and transplanted into trenches two feet 
asunder, and blanched. The thick fleshy stem to be eaten sliced in salads or soups.' " 

Gourd and Pompion or Pumpkin, — Cucurbita, (JLijin.) — belongs to tlie class and 
order Monacia Syngenesia, and natural order of CucurhitacetB. Natives of India 
and the East. There are several in cultivation, the principal of which are : 

The Water-melon, — Cucurbita citritlhis, — introduced in 1597 from the south of 
Europe. This is the melon of the ancients, and is at the present time much used in 
the south of Italy. 

The Squash, — Cucurbita Mclopcpo. Is a native of the Levant, and was also in- 
troduced in 1597. In North America it is cultivated as an article of food. 

The Pompion or Pumpkin, — Cucurbita Pcpo. Is also a native of the Levant, and 
introduced in 1570. This is the melon of the early English gardeners; the true 
melon, Cucumis Melo, being then called musk-melon. It is generally cultivated as 
an ornament of the garden, but by some of the peasantry for pumpkin-pies, &c. 

The Waktcd-covrv,— Cucurbita verrucosa, — a native of the Levant; Cucurbita 
aurujitia, the orange-gourd, a native of India ; and the bottle-gourd, Cucurbita 
lagenaria, also a native of India, are only cultivated for curiosity. 

The Vegetablf. Marrow, — Cucurbita succado, — has been introduced from Persia 
within these few years. It is cultivated in some families, and used for culinary pur- 
poses in every stage of its growth. 

Leek, — Allium Porrum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Ilexandria Mon<y- 
gynia, and natural order Asphudelea, Is a native of Switzerland, and introduced 
1562 ; but it is also a native of Egypt, and other parts of the east, and known to 
those countries before the departure of the Israelites. It is probable, however, that 
it was known to the natives of this country before the time recorded of its introduc- 
tion. It is the national vegetable of the ancient Britons. Worlidge, speaking of 
Wales, says, " I have seen the greater part of a garden there stored with leeks, and 
a part of the remainder with onions and garlic." The sorts generally cultivated are, 
the Flanders, or narrow-leaved leek, the Scotch flag, or Musselburg-leek, and me 
London, broad-leaved or tall leek. The two latter are the best. 



284 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Lr.TiucE,— Lrtc/j/ca satiim, (Z-jh/j.)— belongs to the class and order Syngeneaia 
jEqualis, and natural order Cichoracea. It is not exactly known to what country 
this excellent vegetable owes its origin, but from the names of many of the varie- 
ties, they appear to have been brought from some of the Greek islands, and the 
coast of the Levant. It was cultivated or introduced in 15G2. Some authors con- 
sider it only a variety of one of the native species. It is the best, and the most uni- 
versally cultivated salad that we have. " It contains, like all the other species of 
this genus, a quantity of opium juice, from which, of late years, a medicine has been 
prepared by Dr. Duncan, senior, of Edinburgh, under the title of Lactucarium, and 
which can be administered with effect when opium is inadmissible." 

The varieties arc numerous, of which the following are in general culture : — green 
cos, white cos, silver cos, spotted cos, Egyptian early cos, black-seeded green cos, « 
white-seeded green cos, brown cos (-r Bath, red cos, Florence cos, Paris cos, lap, 
brown Silesia, green Silesia, white Silesia, common white cabbage, large white cab- 
bage, brown Dutch cabbage, imperial cabbage, grand admiral cabbage, tennis-ball 
cabbage, hardy green cabbage or capuchin, Malta cabbage, large Roman, Prussian, 
Mogul, Hammersmith, New Cape cos ; of these, it may be admitted, that the New 
Cape cos is the best for general crops, as it grows very large, and is tender and crisp. 
The brown Dutch for being hardy, the lap to be drawn and used young in small 
salads ; the spotted cos is curious. The hardy green, tennis-ball, and brown Dutch, 
are the most backward in starting to seed, therefore are highly useful for summer 
crops. To the brown Dutch, as being a hardy sort, we may add the hardy green, 
the common white, and the tennis-ball, any of which will stand the winter in ordi- 
nary cases. The cos lettuces, have upright, oval, or oblong heads ; and the cabbage 
lettuces have round leaves, and squat, flat, full heads, but are white, firm, and close, 
when full grown. 

Love Apple, or Tomato, — Sulanum Lycopersicum, (Limi.) — belongs to the claaa 
and order Pcntandria Monoiiyilia, and to the natural order Solanaccce. Is a native 
of South America, and introduced in 1596. Gerrard and Parkinson, the former 
writing in 1597, and the latter in 1656, describe it as a plant kept only for ornament 
and curiosity. They were, ho\^ever, aware, that the fruit was used in the wanner 
countries of Europe for culinary purposes. Dodoens, in 1583, describes it as culti- 
vated in the continental gardens, and says, that the fruit was eaten, dressed with 
pepper, salt, and oil. A white variety is mentioned by Besler, who wrote in 1618, 
This sort is also noticed by Tournefort, but is now lost. The fruit, when ripe, is used 
in soups and sauces, and the juice is preserved for w inter, like catsup ; it is also used 
in confectionery, as a preserve, and when green as a pickle. The French and 
Italians are particularly attached to this fruit, and scarcely a dinner is served in 
Rome or Naples, without this fruit being introduced in some shape or other. To 
supply this demand, whole fields, in the vicinity of those cities, are annually covered 
with Tomatoes. There arc two varieties cultivated here, if colour be sufficient to 
mark them as such ; the red and yellow, each of which has its sub-varieties, such 
as the large, small, cherry, and pear-shaped reds, and the large, the small, or cherry- 
shaped yellow. Of these, the large red, and large yellow are the best ; the pre- 
ference, however, may be given to the former. 

Maujoram, — Origanum, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Didynamia 
Gymnnspermia, and natural order Labiatir. There are different species cultivated, 
which are as follow : — 

Sweet MaPvJORAM, — Origanum Marjorana. Is a native of Portugal, and intro- 
duced in 1573. 

Winter Sweet Marjoram, — Origanum Heradeoticum. A native of Greece, and 
was introduced in 1640. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



285 



Pot Marjoram, Origanum Onites. A native of Sicily, introduced in 1759, and 

Common Marjoram, Origanum Vufgare. A native of our British woods on 
chalky soils. All the species are aromatics, and are used both in their green state, 
and vehen dry, for seasoning soups, broths, stuffings, &c. 

Marigold,— Ca/t'«ffM/rt officinalis, (Li«H.)— belongs to the class and order Synge- 
nesia necessaria, and natural order of Cori/mbi/ero'. Is a native of France and 
Spain, and cultivated in this country since 1573. It is one of the oldest and best 
known inmates of our gardens. " Its flowers," Gerrard observes, " having been 
formerly in much repute, as comforters of the heart." It is now rarely employed 
for cuhnary purposes. In some of the midland counties, it is used in brotlii?, and in 
others for colouring butter. 

Mustard,— 5iH«pii-, (/^«/n.)— belongs to the class and order Tetradijnamia sili- 
quosoy and to the natural order of Crucifera. There are two species cultivated. 

Black Mustard, — Sinapis Nigra. Is a native of Britain, and is found in fields 
and cultivated places. This species is seldom cultivated in gardens, but is exten- 
sively grown in fields, for grinding and medicinal purposes. When cultivated in 
gardens, its young tops are used along with other small salads, and when full grown, 
the leaves are used as greens. 

White Mustard, — Sinapis Alba. Found in the same places as the last, and is 
much used as a small salad. When the plant is young, it is agreeable, but when 
in its rough leaves, is harsh and unpleasant. 

Orache, or Mountain Spinach, — Atriplcx hortcnsis, {Linn.) — belongs to the 
class and order PoUjgamia Moncecia, and to the natural order Chenopodece. Is a 
native of Tartary, and introduced in 1548. It is used as a substitute for spinach, 
and is much used in France. 

Onion, — Allium Cepa, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Hexandria Mono^ 
gynia, and to the natural order Asphodclece. Neither the native place of the onion, 
nor the time of its introduction into Britain, can be correctly ascertained. Some 
suppose it to have originated in Spain, but it is more probably, a native of Egypt ; 
the inhabitants of tliat country being partial to onions and garlic. It enters into 
the broths, soups, and other cuhnary preparations of almost every nation in Europe 
This, Uke all the other alhceous vegetables, is of great antiquity. The sorts in 
general cultivation arc, the silver-skinned, early silver-skinned, a sub-variety of the 
last, yellow, true Portugal, the seed of which is seldom imported into this country, 
Spanish, two-bladed, Strasburg, globe, James' keeping, Deptford, pale red, blood 
red, Lisbon, Tripoli; these are all biennials. The Welsh, under-ground, tree or 
bulb-bearing onion, and scallion, are perennials. The Reading, white Reading, white 
Portugal, white Spanish, Cambridge, and Evesham, are supposed the same as the 
Spanish ; the Dutch and Flanders are the same as the Strasburg. The Deptford is 
only a sub-variety of the Strasburg. The Dutch blood red, St. Thomas, are only 
varieties of the blood red. For pickhng, the three former are preferred. The Spanish 
is much cultivated about Reading, and is a good sort for general crops ; but the 
Strasburg is most universally cultivated, both for principal spring and autumn 
crops ; the globe is a good onion, and much admired by some gardeners. James' 
keeping, originated some years ago with a person of the name of James, a market- 
gardener in Lambeth Marsh, and is a good keeping onion. The blood red is much 
cultivated in Scotland and Wales, and esteemed in the London markets only for its 
diuretic quaUties. The Tripoli is the largest onion cultivated, but is a bad keeper. 
The Lisbon is a pretty good onion, but does not always ripen its seed in this country. 
Of the perennial sorts, the Welsh is esteemed for being hardy, and coming into use 
early in spring ; it is a native of Siberia. The under-ground species has, of late 
years, been much cultivated in the Isle of Wight, and on the coast in the vicinity of 



286 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Portsmouth, as ii comes in use before any of the spring-sown ones ; and in that c?sc, 
the cultivators find a ready market for them, in the purveyors for the East Indiainen 
and other ships destined for long voyages, which leave England at a season, when 
no other onion would be in a condition to take into their stores. It is a useful oniun, 
and will afford a supply slrould the other crops from seed suffer by grubs or other 
accidents. It does not keep beyond February. This species has been erroneously 
supposed to have been brought from Egypt by the British army about 1805, but it 
was known in this country many years before that time. It is, and has been culti- 
vated in Devonshire for many years, and is described as growing in Driver's nursery 
ill 1796. It is cultivated in the >'icinity of Grand Cairo, and esteemed among the 
Egyptians, who are partially fond of almost all the alliceous plants. 

The tree, or bulb-bearing onion, AUium cepa \»ar. vivipara, came originally firom 
Canada, where the climate being too cold for onions to flower and seed, becomes (aa 
in the cases of many Alpine grasses, for example, Poa et Fettuca f'ivipara) viviparous, 
and bears bulbs instead of flowers. This is one of Nature's grand provisions for the 
propagation of plants, when the summer is not of sufficient duration for the per- 
fecting of the flowers and seeds, by the regular mode of impregnation, &c By a 
mode peculiar to herself. Nature changes the parts of fructification from their natiiral 
dispositions, and forms them into bulbs or embryo plants, which, when sufficiently 
natured, drop down, and either strike root that autumn, or else he dormant till the 
return of another short summer, when they shoot up, and become plants similar to 
their parents. This curious mode of propagation is common in the Alpine regions, 
and is not only exemplified in the two grasses above-mentioned, but in that rare 
plant, Sajrifraga cernua, in Polygonium vivipara, and many others. This spedes of 
Allium is not hkely to come into general cultivation, although the caulme bulbs, 
when planted, become onions of a good size. It is our opinion, that the largest of 
the cauline bulbs are calculated for pickling ; at least it would be worth while to 
make the experiment. 

ScALLiox. Miller mentions this as a distinct species ; but some only consider it 
to be the Welsh onion, and others think it is a sort of hollow leek, a species o( Allium 
grown in Pembrokeshire, and other parts of South Wales, with a cluster of bulbs 
like that of eschalots. 

Parslev, — Apium Pelroselinum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pen- 
tandrla Trlgynia, and to the natural order Umhelliferct. It is a native of Sardinia, 
and was introduced in 154S, but is now naturalized to Britain. It is found in waste 
places, but generally near old gardens. The sorts in cultivation are, the common 
plain-leaved, the curled tliick-leaved, and the long-rooted or Hamburg parsley. 
The first is seldom cultivated, and should be exploded from our gardens, as, in its 
general appearance, it is often mistaken both fur hemlock, Conium m iculaium^ and 
Fool's parsley, ^Ethtisa cynapium, both of which are deleterious, the former being 
one of our most powerful vegetable poisons. The curled-leaved is both a much 
finer and a more beautiful >ort. and, by generally adopting its cultivation, no risk 
would be run of mistaking it tor either of the two plants above-mentioned. There 
is a sub-variety, called the giant-parsley, which grows large, and is preferable to the 
others. The Hamburg sort is cultivated for iti long fleshy roots, and \^as probably 
mtroduced or much cultivated near Hamburg, from which place it derives its name. 
No seed sown in the culinary garden remains so long under ground as that of 
jwrsley : this circumstance should be taken into consideration at the time of sowing. 

Parsnep, — Pasi'maca Saliva, ( Lin '».)— belongs to the class and order Pentaitdria 
Digynia, and to the natural order UmbcUiffra. Is a native of Britain, and abounds 
in chalky fields, and road-sides in many parts of Hampshire, Surrey, and Kent. It 
ia astonishing to see to what a depth the roots of thi^ plant will penetrate into hard 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



287 



chalky rock. By cultivation it has been much improved. In its natural state, it has 
a small hard root, and of rather an unpleasant taste, but, in its cultivated state, it 
has a large well-flavoured root, and abounds with saccharine and spirituous proper- 
ties. It has long been an inhabitant of our gardens, but not so generally cultivated 
now as formerly. Amongst the Catholics it is a favourite Lent root, being eaten with 
salted fish. In some parts of Scotland the roots are dressed along \nth. potatoes, and 
form a good dish for the children of the peasantry. Parsnep-wine is well known. 
In the north of Ireland, a table-beverage is prepared from the roots brewed along 
with hops. We have only one variety cultivated, but the French cultivate three : 
the Siam, the Coqtuiine, and the Lishonaise. Of these, the first is the smallest, but 
best flavoured ; the second is the largest, and cultivated chiefly in the islands of 
Jersey and Guernsey, wliere the roots sometimes attaiin the length of four feet, and 
are often sixteen inches in circumference, and rarely so small as six inches. This 
variety deserves the attention, not only of our cottagers, but also of our dairy-farmers, 
few vegetables being better for milch-cows ; and in situations, where the soil is hght, 
deep, and sandy, probably a better crop could not be grown for that purpose. The 
third variety, Lisbonaise, is nearly as good as the former, but does not grow to 
such a length, and probably would be better for field culture. Depth of soil, how- 
ever, is not so material in the cultivation of parsneps, if all other circumstances be 
favourable ; for, as has been already observed, their roots penetrate to the depth of 
three or four feet in solid chalk ; nevertheless, the looser the ground is, the larger 
they will become. 

Pea, — Pisum Sativum, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Diadelpliia Decan- 
dria, and natural order of Leguminosa. Is a native of the south of Europe, but 
when introduced into this country we have no certain account. In Queen Eliza- 
beth's time, peas were brought from Holland, and were considered fit only for the 
nobility, being brought from so great a distance, and at such a great expense. Nu- 
merous varieties are cultivated in our fields and gardens, the principal of which are 
as follow : Bishop's dwarf early, Cormack's double-blossomed early frame, Perkin's 
early ditto, old or true early frame, early Charlton, early golden ditto, early 
Nichol's golden ditto, common Charlton, early single-blossomed, Reading hot- 
spur, golden hotspur, dwarf marrowfat, tall marrowfat, green marrowfat or Pata- 
gonian. Knight's wrinkled, or marrow ; Knight's new dwarf ditto, Spanish moratto, 
blue Prus.ian, white Prussian, egg, white rouncival, gray rouncival, tall sugar, dwarf 
sugar, crown or rose, true dwarf scjmetar, sickle pea, dwarf blue imperial, improved 
ditto ditto, tall ditto ditto, new green nonpareil, royal dwarf; Leadman's ditto, Spa- 
nish ditto, prolific ditto, late Spanish ditto, early dwarf frame, for forcing, and Nan- 
terre, or earliest French pea- Of these, Bishop's early dwarf, a new pea, raised by 
Mr. D. Bishop, in Perthshire ; the early dwarf frame, true early frame, are the 
best sorts for forcing, or with the early Charlton, the best for early crops in the open 
air. The Charltons are profitable, as well as early peas, and are suited for cottagers, 
and small gardens, as arc also all the varieties of dwarfs, as they occupy little ground, 
and other crops of vegetables may be planted between their rows. Of the middling tall 
growing sorts, the blue Prussian, dwarf marrowfat, are excellent bearers, and good- 
flavoured peas ; and, of the tallest, the tall marrowfat and Knight's wrinkled marrow 
are the best ; the latter is evidently, under good culture, the best-flavoured and pro- 
fitable late pea th«t is now known. It is not so profitable to maiket-gardeners, nor 
to cottagers, as it requires stakes of seven or eight feet in height. Leadman's dwarf 
is a good late pea, and much esteemed for its flavour. The sugar-pea is used nearly 
in the same manner as kidney-beans ; the pods being deprived of the inner tou h 
film render them very tender. It was only introduced about the middle of the last 
century. It is much used in France. All the culinary plants of the natural order 
Leguminosa, are of great antiquity, and it is probable that they were among tho 



288 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENtR. 



first which attracted the attention of man in an uncivilized state. The nJmble 
tailor, early May, or double -blossomed frame, is one of our best and earliest peas. 
It was imported from Holland in 1814. The pea, as an article of food, possesses 
great interest ; the peasantry of Scotland make meal of it, of which they prepare a 
wholesome and nutritious bread. 

Purslane, — Portulw a olcracca, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Dode- 
candria Monogynla, and to the natural order Portulacecp. Is a native of South Ame- 
rica, and introduced in 1G52. It is used in salads, and sometimes pickled. There 
are two varieties in cultivation, the green and yellow, or golden. By some they are 
made two distinct species, under the names oi Portulaca oleracea and Porttdara 
sativa. 

Radish, — Haphanns sativus, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Tetradynatnia 
siliquosn, and to the natural order Crucifcra: Is a native of China, and mentioned 
by Gerrard, in 15S4. There are several varieties in cultivation, and are divided into 
spring, autumn, and winter kinds. The following is from the Transactions of the 
Horticultural Society : — 

The Spring and Summer hinds are, the " scarlet, or salmon-coloured, and its sub- 
varieties. — Short-topped scarlet, and early frame scarlet ; which are the two sorts 
generally cultivated. Purple ; an early sort, of good flavour, but at present neg- 
lected. Long white ; the original variety, cultivated in Gerrard's time, white semi- 
transparent and delicate :" these are long sorts. The turnip sorts are, the "white; 
root globular, like a turnip. Early white ; a sub-variety. The pirfk ; rose-coloured, 
scarlet, and crimson, are names applicable to one sort which approaches to the pear- 
shape." 

The Autumn Icitids are, " White Russian ; the root larger than any of the long- 
rooted kinds, white, tapering like a carrot, flavour nutty, like that of the rampion. 
Yellow turnip ; root large, ovate, yellow, or dusky-brown, and rough without, 
but the flesh white. Round brown ; root large, shape irregular, externally matted 
\^hh greenish brown, and the flesh soft, and of a greenish white." 

The IFinter kinds are, " White Spanish ; root large, oval, outside white tinged 
with green, flesh hot, firm, solid, and white. Oblong brown ; root middle-sized, 
pear-shaped, outside coat rough and brown, marked with white circles ; flesh hot, 
firm, solid, and white, plant very hardy. Black Spanish ; root large, irregularly pear- 
shaped, rough and black externally, and the flesh hot, firm, solid, and white ; very 
hardy. Purple Spanish ; a sub-variety of the black, with a purple skin." 

The roots are nmch esteemed as a salad, and are the only part of the plant gene- 
rally used in a raw state. The pods are pickled, and considered a substitute for 
capers. Sometimes the tender tops are used along with other small salads ; and 
they were anciently boiled, when full grown, and used as greens. The long-rooted 
are best for principal crops, although for variety, the turnip sorts are also sown 
during the whole of the summer. The Spanish may be stored for winter use, among 
sand or otherwise, with other winter roots. 

Ramtiox, — Campanula Rapiinciilus, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pen- 
tandria Monogynia, and to the natural order Campanulaca:. Is a native of England, 
though not much cultivated. The roots are like a radish, and have a nutty flavour, 
which, with the leaves, are the parts used in spring salads. 

Rape, — Brassica Napus, (Linn. \:\v. olcifera of DecandoUc) — belongs to the class 
and order Tctradynamia SiUquosa, and natural order of Crucifcrir. Is a native of 
Britain, and found in corn-fields and cultivated places. The young seed-leaves ga- 
thered, are used with mustard and cress, in salads. It is much used in agriculture. 

Savory, — Saturcja, (LAm.) — belongs to the class ami order Didynamia Gymnos- 
permia, and natural order Lahinta, There are two species cultivated : the — 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



289 



Summer Savor y,—Satureja hortensis. Is a native of Italy, and known in this country 
since 1052, 

Winter Savory, — Satureja Montana. Is a native of the south of Europe, and known 
in this country since 1652. Both the species are cultivated in every garden, being 
used for seasoning, and other made-dishes in cookery. 

Ski.s\?\—Tragopogon porrifolius, (Z/«h.) — belongs to the class and order 
Syngenesis JEqualis, and natural order Cichoracea. Is a native of Britain, and 
has probably been naturalized. The Tragopogon pratensis, another plant of this 
family, was cultivated in the gardens in the time of Gerrard and Parkinson, but 
have been supplanted by the Tragopogon porrifolius. The roots are used either 
boiled or stewed, and the young shoots are used in spring as a substitute for 
asparagus. 

Savoy, — Brassica oleracea, var. Sabauda, {Linn.) Brassica oleracca, var. bullata 
of Decandol le—bclongs to the class and order Tetradynamia Siliquosa, and natural 
order of Cniciferce. This is another of the many varieties of culinary vegetables 
which have taken their origin from the common white cabbage, the Brassica oleracea. 
This family is distinguished from all the others by the rugosity of its leaves, and is 
divided into the following varieties : the green, the dwarf, and the yellow savoy ; and 
these again into the sub-varieties : the round, the oblong, and the conical or sugar- 
loaf shaped ; all of them being excellent autumnal greens. The green savoy should 
be first used, as it is less hardy than the yellow, and the dwarf is the hardiest of 
them all. Any of them will, however, stand in ordinary seasons, till after the middle 
of winter. 

ScoRZONERA, — Scorzonera Hispanica, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Syngenesia JEqualis, and natural order Cichoraceee. Is a native of Spain, the south 
of France, and Italy, and cultivated in the gardens of this country since 1576, mostly 
for its roots. 

Sea-kale, — Crambe Maritima, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Tetrady- 
namia Siliquosa, and natural order Cruciferfe. Is a native of our sea-shores, and 
has been used by the inhabitants of some parts of England, from time immemorial. 
The late Mr. Curtis was the first who brought it into general culture, although it 
had been cultivated partially in this country for upwards of two hundred years, and 
appears to have been sent to the continent by the two botanists, Lobel and Turner, 
but whether as a culinary or botanical plant does not appear. Parkinson and Bryant 
both say, that the leaves were used by the inhabitants of the sea-coast boiled, and 
eaten as cabbage; from which it derives the name of sea-cabbage, or sea-kale. It 
was probably first cultivated in the south of England, as we are informed, that it 
was brought to Chichester market, in a cultivated state, in 1753. It was cultivated 
by Dr. Lettsom in 1767, and by him brought into notice in the London markets. 
In Scotland, so early as 1774, directions are given for its cultivation by Gordon, in 
his Gardener's Dictionary, who recommends covering the beds, with sand or gravel, 
to the thickness of four or five inches. Although sea-kale be now a common vege- 
table, in every part of this country, it is singular, that the French, who are naturally 
fond of light vegetable food, should not more readily adopt its cultivation. It has 
one great advantage over all other vegetables of a culinary nature, which is, that it 
can be had nearly all the year in perfection. By repeated cutting, in cold situations, 
it can be obtained till the end of June, and again, by forcing, in November. It is 
not, Hke most other vegetables, injured, but improved by forcing. This vegetable is 
cultivated on a large scale by the London market-gardeners, several individuate 
having a number of acres under ciop at the same time, and find a ready demand for 
it in all the marke ts of the metropolis. The price is about four shillings a punnet 
(a small basket) from December till April ; and, after that ti iir, seldom sells for Icni 
than half-a-rrown or three shillings. 

2 p 



290 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



ScuRVt-GRASS, — Cochleria officinalis, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Tetradynamia siliculosa, and natural order Cruci/em. Is a native of Britain, grow- 
ing on many of our sea-shores. It is not generally cultivated in our gardens, but 
makes a wholesome ingredient in our salads, where it is required. Its medicinal 
properties are considered as anti-scorbutic. The variety, called Dutch scurvy-grass, 
is thicker, and more succulent in its leaves, and is the best for cultivation. 

Skirret, — Siiim Sisarum, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pentandria 
D/^j/H/a, and natural order UmheUiferce. Is a native of China, and known in this 
country since 1548. The roots are the parts of the plant used, but at the present 
day are not so much esteemed in cuUnary preparations as formerly. 

SpiJ^ach, — Spinacia oleracca, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Diacia 
Hexandria, and natural order Chcnopodete. It is supposed to be a native of western 
Asia, but that is only conjecture. It has been cultivated here since 1568, but pro- 
bably was known in this country long before that period. It is used in culinary 
preparations in various ways, and esteemed in all famihes. There are only two 
varieties cultivated : the prickly-seeded and the round-seeded. The former is pre- 
ferred for winter and autumn sowings, being more hardy : the latter for general crops 
in summer, the leaves being more succulent and tender. 

Spinach, New Zealand, — Tetragonia expausa — belongs to the class and order 
Icosandria Pentagynia. and natural order I iroidece. This is a very recently intro- 
duced plant into our culinary gardens, and is an excellent substitute for spinach. It 
is a native of New Zealand, as the name implies, and was introduced by the natural- 
ists, who accompanied Captain Cook to that country. It was discovered by them 
growing by the sides of woods, in bushy sandy places. It did not appear to them 
that the natives ever used it in any form. It was introduced in 1772 by Sir Joseph 
Banks, among many other seeds from the same country, and cultivated here as a 
green-house plant, but is now cultivated in almost every garden as a half-hardy 
annual, and is found to be about as hardy as the French-bean or nasturtium. A 
few plants, if properly managed, are found to be sufficient for a large family. It is 
dressed in the same way as spinach, and, when upon the table, can be distinguished 
only by few from the common spinach. 

Spinach, wild, — Chenopodium Bonus Henricus, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and 
order Pentandria Digynia, and natural order Chcnopodece. Is a native of Britain, 
and found plentifully by the sides of roads near villages, but seldom at a great dis- 
tance from houses. It is cultivated in Lincolnshire in preference to the garden- 
spinach. The young shoots, peeled and boiled, are eaten as asparagus, and resemble 
that vegetable in flavor. It is not in general cultivation in the gardens. 

Succory or Wild Endive, — Cidiorium Intybus, {Linn.)— belongs to the class 
and order Syngenesia jEqualis, and natural order of Cichoraceee. Is a native of 
Britain, and found by road-sides in calcareous soils. This plant is but little culti- 
vated in this country, but is in high repute in Italy and France. When blanched, it 
has much the appearance of endive, and in that state is the Barhe de Capucin of the 
French. It has attracted the attention of both the French and EngUsh agriculturists, 
and has been cultivated by them as food for cattle. In Holland and Flanders it is 
extensively cultivated for the roots, which the inhabitants of those countries, and 
almost all the people on the continent, grind and use for coffee, either by itself, or 
mixed with a small portion of genuine coffee. 

Thyme, — Thymus vulgaris, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Didynamia 
Gymnospermia, and natural order Labiatte. Is a native of Spain and Italy, and has 
been cultivated in this country since 1548. It is a well-known fragrant plant, and 
cultivated in all culiriary gardens. There are two species in cultivation, and three 
varieties of the first or common thyme, viz. the common narrow-leaved, and broad- 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



291 



leaved, which is less common, and the variegated- leaved, which is grown for orna- 
ment. 

Thyme, lemon,— J7/ym«5 citriodoms, — which has been supposed to be only a 
variety of the common wild thj-me, Thymus serpyllum, but it is sufficiently distinct 
to form a species of itself. It is used much for the same purposes as the Thymus 
vulgaris. 

Turnip, — Brassica Rapa, {Linn, and Decatidolle,) — belongs to the class and order 
Tetradynamia Siliquosa, and natural order of Crucifera. Is a native of England, 
but 'i6 better known in a cultivated state. The roots are used in various ways in 
almost every family, and in all parts of Europe. In spring, the tops atTord an 
ftgreeable and delicate green, and are acceptable to the mechanic and cottager, as 
»vell as to the peer. It is uncertain when turnips were first cultivated in Britain, for 
»ve find, that in the reign of Henry the Eighth, they were imported from Flanders, 
And were not cultivated here, as their culture was not then understood. In the low 
countries, and many parts of Germany, they have been cultivated as far back as the 
records of the history of those countries carry us. Sir Richard Weston is the first 
Historian, who speaks of them as being cultivated as food for cattle in England, and 
that not until about the middle of the seventeenth century. Worlidge, w riting in 
1668, says, that flics are the greatest enemies that turnips have; and Ray, who 
wrote about twenty years afterwards, speaks of them as being cultivated in the 
fields every where in England, as well as in the gardens. 

Turnips were cultivated in Hampshire, Berkshire, and Leicestershire,. in the years 
1698 and 1G99. Mr. Lisle informs us, that his men, who hoed his turnips, had made 
it their pecuUar business for twenty years. 

It has been supposed that they were introduced into England by Charles Lord 
Viscount Townshcnd, but on the authority of Lisle, who made his observations 
between the years 1693 and 1722, this seems to be an error. It is however pro- 
bable, that that patriotic nobleman greatly improved the mode of cultivating them, 
as he had an opportunity of seeing them in much higher perfection on the continent, 
where he resided far some time, being ambassador extraordinary to the States Gene- 
ral in 1709. 

They were certainly not in cultivation, except for the table, at the end of the six- 
teenth century, and so little were they known in 1588, that Cogan, in his Haven of 
Health, affirms, «' That although many men do love to eat turnips, yet the swine by 
nature do abhor them." Neither Gerard nor Parkinson takes the least notice of 
their being cultivated in the fields. The former says, that small turnips were grown 
at Hackney, in a sandy soil, and brought to the Cross in Cheapside by the women of 
that village to be sold. In Scotland they were first cultivated near Stonehive, by 
Robert Barclay, Esq., of Urie, as an article of field-culture, and that enlightened 
gentleman brought the cultivation of them to very great perfection during his life- 
time. 

The sorts cultivated are, the early white Dutch, early stone, common round white, 
large round white, yellow Dutch, Aberdeen yellow, Maltese golden, green topped 
large round white, red topped large white, tankard, French, smafl round French, 
Swedish yellow stone, and black Russian. Of these, the two former arc the best 
for early crops, and with the addition of the third, and yellow Dutch, and Aberdeen 
yellow for winter use, are quite enough for any ordinary garden. The Maltese 
golden is a handsome root, and it would be advisable to grow a few of them ; as also 
of the Swedish, when transplanted for spring use, as affijrding a fine supply of 
greens as well as good roots. Where it is convenient to have turnips from the fields. 
It IS better not to occupy the garden-ground with them for winter supply, as those 
from the fields will be found of a much better flavor. 



292 



SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE 

or 

CULINARY ROOTS AND HERBS, 

ENUMERATING THEIR DIFFERENT SPECIES, AND PRINCIPAL VARIETIES 
IN GENERAL CULTIVATION; WITH THEIR NATIVE PLACE OF GROWTH, 
IF indigenous; and IF EXOTIC, THE TIME OF THEIR INTRODUC- 
TION INTO THIS COUNTRY. 



Artichoke, — Cynara Scolymus, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Syngene- 
sia yEqualis, and natural order Cynarocephala. Is a native of the south of Europe, 
and introduced in 1548. There are only three varieties in general cultivation. The 
French or oval, the globe, and the dwaif globe ; of these, the globe is considered 
the best for general crops, but the French is supposed to be better flavored. The 
latter is only a sub-variety of the globe, and valued as occupying less room than any 
of the others, and is therefore to be preferred for small gardens. Artichokes are 
used in almost all families, and are in much repute on the continent, entering in a 
variety of ways into French cookery. 

Artichoke, Jerusalem, — Jlclcanthus tuberosus, (Linn.) — belongs to the class 
and order Syngenesia Frustranca, and natural order Corymbiferfe. Is a native of 
Brazil, and introduced in 1617. The epithet Jerusalem is merely a corruption of 
the Italian word Girasolct (from girare, to turn, and sol, the sun,) or sunflower ; the 
name artichoke is given to it from the resemblance in flavor which the tubers possess 
to the bottoms of artichokes. Before the introduction of potatoes, thifi root was in 
high repute. In the reign of Charles the First, Virginian potatoes (our common 
sort) were rare ; but Canadian potatoes (our Jerusalem artichokes) were in common 
use. They are used for a winter and spring dish. 

Balm, — Melissa officinalis, — belongs to the class and order Didynamia Gymnos- 
permia, and natural order Labiata. Is a native of Switzerland and the south of 
France; was introduced in 1573. It is now little used in culinary preparations, but 
still retains its rank as a medicinal plant. It affords a grateful beverage in fevers, 
and is used in the making of balm tea. 

Burnet, — Poterium sanguisorbia, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Mo- 
TKBcia Polynndria, and natural order Rosaces. Is a native of Britain, found abun- 
dantly on chalky downs. The leaves are sometimes used in salads, and occasionally 
in soups. It continues green all winter, but is now little used. It has been recom- 
mended to the attention of the agriculturist, as food for cattle. 

Brook-lime, — Veronica Baccebunga, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Diandria Monngyuia, and to the natural order Scrophtilarince. Is a native of Britain, 
growing in every rivulet. The young tops are used like water-cresses for a salad, 
being more mild and more succulent, and only slightly bitter in taste. They need 
not be cultivated, at least in a garden, for a very little attention will procure an 
•mple supply in any stream, where they grow naturally. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



293 



Chive, — Allium Schtnoprasum, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Hexandria 
Monogynia, and natural order Asphodekx. Is a native of Britain, and sometimes 
found in meadows and pastures. A small bed is suflScient for any family; the young 
tops are cut, and mixed with salads in spring. The peasantry make a favorite dish 
of them, chopped small, and mixed with oatmeal into a sort of pudding. The 
French use them as seasonings to omelets, soups, &c. 

CAyiou\hE,—Anthemi$ nobilis, — belongs to the class and order Syvgenesia super- 
flua, and natural order Corymbiferts. Is a native of Britain, found in pastures. 
There are two varieties cultivated, the single and double flowering. The former, 
like all other single flowers, are the best for medicinal purposes ; but the latter are 
most generally cultivated, as they afford a greater weight and quantity. They are 
highly useful in domestic medicine, and ought to have a place in all gardens, where 
they may either form a bed, or be planted for edgings, for which they are well 
adapted. 

COSTMARY, — Tanacetum Balsamita (Linn.); Bahamita vulgaris, {Hortus Kewen- 
sis,) — belongs to the class and order Sengyncsia superflua, and natural order Coryvi- 
hifercB. It is a native of Italy, and introduced into this country in 1568. It is a 
highly aromatic herb, and its name, Costmary, intimates that it is the costus, or 
aromatic plant of the Virgin. It is but seldom used in this country for culinary pur- 
poses, and therefore is rarely to be found in kitchen-gardens. It is still used in 
France, and other parts of the continent. 

Cress, Water, — Nasturtium officinale, {Hortus Kewensis), — belongs to the class 
and order Tetradynamia siliquosa, and natural order Crucifer<B. — It is a native of 
Britain, and found frequently in rivulets and ditches. Its cultivation was not at- 
tempted till of late years, but since 180S, it has occupied the attention of several 
persons, and we now see water-cresses cultivated in several places round London. 

Elecampane, — Itiula Helenium, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Synge- 
nesia superflua, and natural order CorymbifercE. It is a native of Britain, was for- 
merly in great repute, and cultivated in almost all the village-gardens throughout 
Europe. It is, however, seldom cultivated at this time, except as a flowering-plant 
in the borders, but it still holds its place as a medicinal plant of alexipharmick virtues, 
and for which it was probably so generally cultivated. 

Eschalot, — Allium ascolonimm, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Hexan- 
dria Monogynia, and natural order Asphodcleae. Is a native of Palestine, found near 
Ascalon. Introduced into this country in 1633. Its roots are much used in culinary 
preparations, in the manner of onions and garlic. 

Garlic, — Allium sativum^ (Linn.)— belongs to the class and order Hexandria 
Monogynia, and natural order Asphodelece. Is a native of Sicily, the south of 
France, and also of Egypt, and was well known to the Egyptians long before the 
departure of the Israelites. It has been cultivated here since 1548. It is not very 
generally used in English cookery, at least in substance, but its flavor is communi- 
cated by steeping the cloves, as the bulbs are called, for a short time in the dish, and 
then withdrawing them. It enters more generally into French and Italian cookery 
than into the English. It possesses some medicinal virtues, for which it is cultivated. 

Herb-patience, — Rumex Patientia, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Hexandria Digynia, and natural order Polygoncce. Is a native of Italy, and intro- 
duced in 1573. Formerly this plant was cultivated as a spinach. It is now neg- 
lected, according to the opinion of Mr. Neil, " on account of the proper mode of 
using it not being generally known." It is still much used in Sweden as spinach. 

Hoi', — Humulus Lupuhis, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Ditcire Pentan- 
dria, and natural order Urticete. Is a native of Britain, growing in hedges, and 
cultivated to a considerable extent as an ingredient in the composition of beer. The 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



young shoots were formerly used like asparagus, and are said to be pleasant to eaL 
They aie occasionally to be met with in the market, under the name of hop-tops. 
The hop is only cultivated in the gardens as a climbing plant, either to hide dis- 
agreeable objects, or as a curiosity. 

Horse-radish, — Cochlcria Aromatica, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Tetradynamia Siliquosa, and natural order Crucifcr<c. Is a native of Britain, and is 
to be found in pastures, but more generally near villages, and in the \'icinity of 
gardens. It has long been cultivated in our gardens, and is an article of consider- 
able profit to the market-gardener. Its uses are generally known. The roots lose 
all their acrimony by drying, first becoming sweet, and then almost insipid. If kept 
in sand, in a cellar or other such place, the roots retain their acrimony for a long 
time. 

Hyssop, — Ilyssopus officinalis, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Didynamia 
Gymnospcrmia, and natural order Lahiatce. Is a native of the south of Europe, and 
introduced in 154S. This is not the hyssop of the ancients. The leaves are some- 
times used as a pot-herb, but their principal use is in medicine. Three varieties are 
cultivated, differing only in the color of their flowers, which are red, white, and blue. 
The blue is the original color, and the most often cultivated. 

Lavender, — Lovendula spica, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Didynamia 
Gymnospcrmia, and natural order Labialo". Is a native of the south of Europe, and 
introduced in 165S. It is seldom or never used in domestic cookery, but is found In 
every garden, in which it is cultivated for its fragrant spikes, which are either dried, 
and kept in bags or small bundles, or distilled, and becomes then the well-known 
lavender-watei of the shops. For this latter purpose, it is cultivated to a consider- 
able extent, particularly at Mitcham, in Surrey, and Maidenhead, in Berkshire. 

Liquorice, — Glycyrrhiza glabra, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Diadel- 
phi I Dccandria, and to the natural order Leguminostr. Is a native of the south of 
Europe, and introduced in 15G2. The planting and growing of hquorice began about 
the beginning of the reign of Elizabeth. It is only cultivated on a small scale in the 
gardens, but on an extensive scale in the fields, for the use of brewers and druggists. 

Mint, — Mentha, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Didynamia Gymnospcrmia, 
and natural order Labiatcr. — There are several species cultivated. 

The Mentha viridis, spearmint, is the most generally used in culinary preparations, 
being an ingredient in salads, and imparting a flavor to several dishes, such as peas, 
sauces, ficc 

The Mentha pulegium, pennyroyal, is used in different branches of cookery. 

The Mentha piperita, peppermint, is less used as a culinary herb, but is more used 
for distillation, for which the other two are also cultivated. 

Potato, — Solanum tuberosum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pentandria 
Digynia, and natural order Solavcee. The question as to the country, from which 
this invaluable root first proceeded, has been as much the subject of argument as the 
birth-place of Homer. It is supposed by many to be of South American origin. 
Baron Humboldt says, that it is naturalized in many places there, but he doubts 
whether it be indigenous. Messrs. Sabine and Lambert agree in its being a native 
of the western coasts of South America, and also that it is found both in elevated 
situations in the tropical regions, and in the temperate districts of the western coast. 
It is supposed that potatoes were first brought into Europe by way of Spain, about 
the beginning of the sixteenth century, from the mountainous distiicts of Soutn 
America, in the neighbourhood of Quito. It was introduced into Italy from Spain. 
In the year I59S, Clusius received the potato into the botanic garden at Vienna, 
from the governor of Mons, who had received it the preceding year from one of the 
attendants of iiie Pope's legate, by whom he was informed, that it was then in use 



THE CULINARY GARDEN, 



295 



In Italy. Clusius cultivated, and disseminated it through Germany. Sir Walter 
Raleigh, or some of his attendants, are supposed to have brought it into this country, 
about 1586 from Virginia, and that it was planted by him on his estate of Youghall, 
near Cork, where it was cultivated and used, long before its value was known in England. 

This excellent root was nearly condemned to destruction, by the apples or seed, 
which it produces, being by mistake taken for the eatable part. Fortunately, the 
spade discovered the real potato, and the root became rapidly a favourite eatable. 
It, however, long continued to be considered rather a species of dainty, than as an 
article of provision, nor was it till the close of the eighteenth century, that it was 
supposed capable of guarding the country in which it was cultivated from the horrors 
of a famine. 

The potatoes of Shakspeare and other writers of his time, were not the potatoes of 
the present day, but the Convolvulus batatus or sweet potato, which were imported 
from Spain, and in use before the present potato was known. 

" Let it rain ijolatocs and hail kissing comfits." 

Merry Wives of Windsor, Act. V, Scene 5. 

The potato appears to have been brought from Ireland to Lancashire, where it 
has been, perhaps, more successfully cultivated, than in any other part of England. 
Gerrard had them in his garden in 1597, and has given a figure of it in his Herbal, 
under the name of liattata Firginiana, and recommends the roots to be eaten as 
a delicate dish, but not as common food. They ought, he says, " to be either roasted 
in the embers, or boiled and eaten with oil, vinegar, and pepper, or dressed some 
other way by the hands of a skilful cook." 

Parkinson says, that the tubers were sometimes roasted, and steeped in sack and 
sugar, or baked with marrow and spices, and even preserved and candied by the 
comfit-makers. 

In 1663, the attention of the Royal Society was directed to the culture of the 
potato, and some measures were taken to encourage the more general cultivation of 
It on the score of national advantages. This measure brought the use of them to be 
more generally understood, but still they were held in no high estimation. Even 
after a hundred years had elapsed since their introduction, they were spoken of, as 
being only a root used by the lower classes in Ireland, sometimes as a substitute for 
bread, and occasionally boiled or roasted. Evelyn, who wrote in 1699, says " in 
your worst ground plant potatoes, and take them up in November, gather them ever 
so clean, still enough of the tubers will remain in the ground for a stock." Some of 
the writers on horticulture at a later period, take no notice whatever of potatoes, and 
others considered them less useful than either skirrets or parsneps. In Scotland, they 
were received and cultivated with enthusiasm, and they now form the chief support 
of thousands. At their first introduction, about the year 1725, which was as early 
as they were generally known in England, they were cultivated only in a few gar- 
dens in the vicinity of Edinburgh, and left in the ground for several years, and the 
few wnich were annually irsed were merely picked out of the ground as the occasion 
required, and the remainder were then covered with litter to protect them from the 
frost. It was not till after 1740, or probably 1745 or 6, that they were even known 
in the Highlands, and are said to have been introduced by the followers of Charles 
Stuart They arc now cultivated by the natives of the most remote isles, with a 
care and industry that are highly creditable to them, and the quality of the potatoes is 
superior to those grown in the south of Scotland, or in many parts of England, in 
more highly cultivated soils. They pay considerable attention to a change of seed 
and soil once evrry three or four years, by procuring tubers for planting from a 
dLstance. This circumstance, added to the potatoes being generally planted in what 



296 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



is called new ground, or that which had long rested, or probably never before been 
in cultivation, may be the cause of their superior quality, and the absence of that 
common disease called the curl. Potatoes grown in fields are generally much better 
than those cultivated in gardens. The consumption is now so great of this valuable 
root, that for the supply of populous towns, fields of considerable extent are annually 
under this crop, and probably few crops pay the grower better. In the county of 
Essex, in 1796, it was ascertained that no less than seventeen hundred acres were 
under this crop, and from the vast increase of population, in the vicinity of London, 
it is supposed, that the extent is increased in proportion. 

The varieties, which are extremely numerous, in consequence of new ones being 
often produced by seed, and the disposition of them to assume different habits, when 
long grown in the same garden, or field, may be arranged under two heads, each 
differing principally in colour, and each class having numerous sub-varieties. For 
garden culture, the following are the most useful : — 

irhites. Early manly, early champion, royal dwarf, American early, early ash- 
leaved, early dwarf, and early frame ; bread-fruit, oblong white. 

Reds. Red kidney, red oval, Irish red, American red, bright red, round purple of 
red, and speckled purple or red, red apple, black skin, Lancaster pink-eye. 

Of the whites, the royal dwarf, early manly, and champion, are esteemed for 
forcing, equally with the ash-leaved, and early frame. The American early is good 
for a secondary crop, and the bread-fruit and the oblong white, for later crops. 

Of the reds, the red kidney, and red oval, which are often confounded, are both 
good sorts. The bright red is much esteemed in the vicinity of Manchester, for a 
principal crop, as is the Lancaster pink-eye. The black skin and red apple keep well: 
the latter is the best keeper which we have. The speckled purple is esteemed in 
Scotland for a principal crop. The names by which potatoes are known are so arbi- 
trary, every country and almost every town having their own names for them, and 
each having their favourite sorts, that a list of names would be of little or no use. 

Rocambole, — Allium Scorodoprassum (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
Ifexandriti Monogynia, and natural order Asphodeh'E. Is a native of Denmark, and 
cultivated hare in 1596. It is used by some as a substitute for garlic. It is not 
generally cultivated. 

Rue, — Riila graveolcns, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Decandria Mono- 
gynia, and natural order Rutacc^. Is a native of the south of Europe, and culti- 
vated here since 1562. It is sometimes used as a medicinal herb, but never in the 
kitchen. It is supposed to have derived the name of rue fiom rue, to repent. It 
was called the herb of grace, from the circumstance of its being used by the priests, 
for sprinkling holy water among the people. 

Rosemary, — Rosmarinus officinalis, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
dria Monogynia, and natural order Labiatece. Is a native of the south of Europe, 
cultivated here before 1548. It is seldom used in domestic cookery, but is occa- 
sionally used in medicine and distillation. 

Rhubarb, — Rheum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Enneandria Trigynia, 
and natural order Po///!To??('«. Several species are cultivated in our gardens, prin- 
cipally for the foot-stalks of their leaves, which are used in tarts and pies. Rhubarb 
has only of late years been cultivated as a culinary vegetable, but so great is the present 
demand for it, that it is supposed that there are above 100 acres in the neighbourhood 
of London under this crop ; and Mr. Wilmot, of Isleworth, alone sends it to Covent- 
Garden Market by a wagon-load at a time. 

The Rheum palmalum is a native of Tartary, and was long supposed to be the 
true rhubarb, but Mr. David Don, librarian to the Linneaen Society, has lately shown 
that the Rheum Emodi of Dr. Wallich, is the medieinal plan . The Rheum palmatum 



THi: Cll.IXARY GARDEN. 



297 



having hitlierto been the supposed species. Tliis has been attempted to be cultivated 
in this country for the supply of our druggists, but not with that success, which could 
be wished for so useful and safe a medicine. The Duke of Athol, some years ago, at 
the suggestion of the late Dr. Hope, of Edinburgh, carried the cultivation of thi» 
plant to a considerable extent, and his benevolent design was attended with con 
siderable success. The roots, which he cultivated in the light sandy soils, similar to 
those of the Tartarian desert, grew to a considerable size, many of them were found 
to weigh fifty pounds, and to be equal in smell, taste, and effect, to those which we 
import at a considerable national expense. On being dried, they were found to 
shrink to one-quarter of their original weight. There is great reason to beheve, that 
rhubarb cultivated in this country, is superior to that of foreign growth, the latter 
being gathered at all seasons, on account of the Mongall hunters, on their route, 
drawing up the roots indiscriminately, piercing them at one end, and shnging them 
on their belts ; then leaving them to dry in their tents without further care. The 
scheme was ultimately abandoned by the Duke of Athol, and we beheve has not 
smce been attempted to any extent by any one else. It was introduced in 1758. 

The Rheum Rhuponticum, is a native of Asia, and introduced here in 1573, and has 
been longer in cultivation than the others. 

The Rheum Ifybridum, is also a native of Asia, and introduced in 1778. This is 
considered the strongest growing species, and well calculated for culinary purposes, 
being more succulent than the Rheum Rhapoiiticum, and was brought into notice by 
Mr. A. Dickson of Edinburgh. 

Rheum Tartaricum, is a valuable species, and requires no peeling in dressing ; when 
cooked it is of a fine red colour, and continues to produce stalks longer than any of 
the other sorts. 

Buck's Scarlet, as described in the Hort. Trans., is an excellent sub-variety, and 
well calculated for forcing. 

Sage, — Salvia officinalis, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Diandric Mono- 
gynia, and natural order Labiat<r. Is a native of the south of Europe, and intro- 
duced here before 1597. The leaves are used in a variety of forms in culinary pre- 
parations, and are employed often in medicine. Of this species there are several 
varieties ; the red and green are the most common in cultivation ; the others differ 
only in the size of their leaves, and are called broad and narrow-leaved sage. It is 
used in all families. 

Samphirk, — Crithmum maritimum, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Pen- 
tnndria Digynia, and natural order Umbelliferce. Is a native of our sea-coasts in 
particular places, such as Dover Chffs and the Isle of Portland. Is used as a pickle, 
and sometimes as a salad. It has not been cultivated in the gardens with much 
success. The late John Braddick, Esq. attempted its culture, but succeeded only in 
a partial degree. It is not likely ever to become a plant of general culture. The 
Inula Crithmifolia, a native also of our sea-coasts, is used as a substitute for it, and is 
much more likely to be cultivated with success. The Salicornia Jlcrbacia, another 
sea-side plant, is used for the same purposes, but not likely to become an inhabitant 
of our gardens. 

Sorrel, — Rumex, {Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Hexandria Trygynia, 
and natural order Polygonea. There are several species cultivated, and of them 
some slight varieties, differing in the succulency of their leaves, which is their prin- 
cipal merit. 

The Rumcx Aretosa, or garden sorrel, is a native of our meadows and pastures . 
has lon« been in cultivation, and is used in soups, salads, and sauces, and very gene- 
rally on the CO tincnt as a spinarh. 

ThaRt rr.', '■:. „', !fus, or Frcncli, Roman, or round-leaved sorrel, i= a native of 

2a 



^8 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



France and Italy, and cultivated here since 159G. It is used for the same purpose 
as the last 

Tansy, — Tanacetum vulgare, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order Syngenesui 
tuperfliia, and natural order Corymbifera. Is a native of many places in Britaia- 
The young shoots and leaves are used to give flavor to puddings, &c. It is not 
now so much used as formerly. 

Tarragon, — Artemisia Dracunculus, (Linn.) — belongs to the class and order 
St/ngemsia superflua, and natural order Corymhifera. Is a native of Siberia, and 
cultivated here since 1548. It is used as a pickle, and for fish-sauoe. In France it 
is employed, on account of its agreeable pungency, to correct the coldness of salad- 
herbs. It is also put into their soups and other compositions. 

Wood Sorrel, — Oxalis acetosella, (Lin'i.) — belongs to the class and order De- 
candria Pentagynia, and natural order of Geraniaceee. Is a native of Britain, grow- 
ing in almost all wood?, and appearing very early in spring. The leaves are an 
agreeable salad, either alone or added to other salad-herbs ; and they commimicate 
an agreeable flavor when boiled along with greens. 



A TABLE, 

Showing the Quantity of Seed or number of Roots necessary to Sow or 
Plant in any given *pace. 

1. Alisander, or Alexanders. The seed is sold by weight; and if sown to trans- 
plant for a bed, three feet and a half wide by six feet long, half an ounce will suf- 
fice : if sown to remain in a drill, forty-eight feet in length, one ounce will be 
requisite. 

2. Angelica. An ounce of seed will be requisite to sow a bed, from which the 
plants will afterwards be transplanted, of twenty-four feet square. 

3. Artichoke. For a row at two feet apart, and four plants in each patch, of twenty 
feet in length, forty plants will be necessar)-. 

4. Artichoke, Jerusalem. For a row of one hundred and twenty feet in length, 
the roots being placed at two feet apart, half a peck or sixty roots will be suflScient, 

5. Asparagus. If sown to transplant, one quart of seed will sow a bed of thirty 
square feet. If sown to remain for a bed, four feet and a half wide by thirty feet in 
length, one pint is necessary. If plants a year old, a bed four feet and a half by 
thirty feet in length, to contain four rows nine inches distant in the row, one hun- 
dred and sixty plants will be required. 

6. Anise. One bed of twelve square feet will be suflicient for any family, for 
w hich half an ounce of seed is enough. 

7. Basil. A quarter of an ounce will sow a seed-bed of four feet square, and when 
transplanted, fill a bed of forty-eight square feet. 

8. Beans. For early crops, one pint of seed will be requisite for every eighty feet 
of row ; for principal crops, two quarts for every two hundred and forty feet of row, 
and for late crops, the same as for early. 

9. Beans, French or Kidney. For every eighty feet of row, the beans being at 
two inches and a half or three inches apart, half a pint will be suflScient. 

10. Beet, Red. For every fifty feet of drill, one ounce is requisite. 

11. Beei, White. The same quantity as the last, and so of the other sorts. 

12. Borage. For a bed of twenty-four feet square, an ounce of seed is plenty. 

13. Burnet. Half an ounce of seed will sow a bed of twelve square feet. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



299 



14. Broccoli. Half an ounce will sow a bed of forty square feet, 

15. Borecole. All the sorts of these kales may be sown in the same proportion as 
the last 

16. brusteU Sprouts. One ounce will sow a seed-bed of forty square feet. 

17. Cabbage. One ounce will sow a bed of forty square feet of the early sorts; 
for the more luxuriant sorts, one ounce will sow a seed-bed of sixty square feet 

18. Capsicum. A small paper, the produce of two pods of each sort will be plenty 
for most families. 

19. Cardoon. For a trench of thirty feet in length, an ounce of seed is plenty. 

20. Caraway. A quarter of an ounce is sufficient to sow a bed of twenty feet 
square. 

21. Carrot. For a bed one hundred and twenty feet square, if sown broad-cast, 
one ounce will be requisite, and the same quantity for every hundred and fifty feet 
of drill-row. 

22. Cauliflower. In the same proportions as broccoli and cabbage. 

23. Celery. For a seed-bed of forty square feet, half an ounce is sufficient 

24. Celeriac. A quarter of an ounce is plenty for a bed four feet square. 

25. Chervil A quarter of an ounce is sufficient to sow a bed sixteen feet 
square. 

26. Clary. A small bed, of about four feet square, will be sufficient for most fami- 
lies, for which a quarter of an ounce of seed will suffice. 

27. Coriander. Half an ounce will sow a bed of twenty-four feet square. 

28. Corn-salad. A quarter of an ounce is sufficient for a bed twenty-four feet 
square. 

29. Cress, Garden. One ounce, or one-eighth of a pint, will sow a bed of sixteen 
square feet. 

30. Cress, American, or Black American. If sown in drills, for every ten feet 
allow a quarter of an ounce. 

31. Cress, Winter. The same proportion as the last. 

32. Cress, Curled, or Normandy. The same as the last 

33. Cress, Indian. One ounce will sow twenty-five feet of drill. 

34. Cucumber. From six to twelve seeds in each pot 

35. Dill. Half an ounce of seed is plenty for a bed twelve feet square. 

36. Endive. For a seed-bed of forty square feet, half an ounce is sufficient 

37. Egg-plant. A small paper, the produce of two fruits, will be plenty to sow in 
most gardens. 

38. Fennel. Half an ounce is sufficient for a seed-bed of twenty-four square feet 

39. Finochio. A variety of the former, the same proportion of seed as the last. 

40. Gourds. From four to eight seeds of each variety, in separate pots, \vill be 
plenty for most families ; excepting the vegetable marrow, where it is used, from 
twelve to twenty seeds will afford a supply. 

41. Kidney-bean. See Beans. 

42. Leeks. One ounce is sufficient for a bed of thirty feet square. 

43. Lettuce. The seeds of lettuce require room ; a quarter of an ounce is suffi- 
cient to sow a bed of forty square feet, and will produce upwards of four hundred 
plants. 

44. Love-apple. A small paper of seed is sufficient for most gardens, or the pro- 
duce of one or two fruits. 

45. Marjoram. For a seed-bed of nine square feet, a quarter of an ounce is seed 
sufficient 

46. Marigold. A bed of sixteen square leet, will require a quarter of an ounce of 
seed. 



1^00 THE PRACTICAL GAKDIINEK. 

47. Melon. From four to eight seeds in each pot, of No. 48 size ; or double that 
number may be sown, if there be doubts of the goodness of the seeds. 

48. Mustard. Sow in the same proportion as for garden-cress. 

49. Njsluriium. See Indian Cress. 

50. Onion. For every forty square feet, aUow one ounce of seed. 

51. Parsley. An ounce of seed will sow a drill fifty feet long. 

52. Parsley, Hamburg. May be sown in the same proportion as the last. 

53. Parsnep. Half an ounce of seed is usually sown on a bed of one hundred 
square feet, 

54. Peas. For the small early kinds, one pint will sow a row of twenty yards in 
length ; for the principal sowings of large sorts, the same quantity will sow thirty - 
three yards. 

55. Pompion. See Gourds. 

56. Potatoes. For a plot of the early and secondary crops, eight feet wide by six- 
teen in length, planted in rows fifteen inches apart, and nine inches in the row, a 
(juarter of a peck of roots or cuttings. For principal crops, a compartment twelve 
feet wide by thirty-two in length, planted in rows two feet distant, and twelve inches 
in the row, half a peck of roots will be required. 

57. Purslane. One-eighth of an ounce will sow a bed of sixteen square feet. 

58. Radish. For each sort, a bed of fifty feet square, two ounces of seed will be 
required. 

59. Rampion. Is not much used; and as the seeds are very small, one-eighth o 
an ounce will sow a bed of twenty square feet. 

60. Rape. Sow in rather less proportion than for garden-cress. 

61. Savory, Summer. A small paper, containing one-eighth I'f an ounce, will b 
•uflScient for an ordinary-sized family. 

62. Salsafy. One ounce of seed is sufficient for thirty feet of drill. 

63. Scorzonera. The same as the last. 

64. Skirret. The same as the last. 

65. Savoy. The same proportion as cabbage, broccoli, &c. 

66. Sea-kale. Two ounces will sow a seed-bed of thirty-six square feet ; or, in 
drills, the same quantity will sow forty feet in length. 

67. Spinach. Two ounces will sow a bed of one hundred and twenty square feet, 
if sown broad-cast ; but if sown in drills, one ounce will sow the same space. 

68. Spinach, New Zealand. Thirty or forty seeds will produce enough for an 
ordinary family. 

69. Spinach, Mountain or Orache. One ounce will sow a bed of sixty square feet. 

70. Spinach, Wild. Half an ounce will sow a bed of forty square feet, and will be 
•ufficient for an ordinary-sized family. 

71. Succory, or Wild Endive. Sow in the same proportion as for endive. 

72. Turnip. Half an ounce will sow every hundred square feet. 



THE CULINARY GARDEN. 



A TABLE 

Of the different Culinary Vegetables, ivith the Time of Sowing, Planting, 
Mode of Propagation. 



Plants, &c. No. of crops. Time of sowing or planting. Mode of proivigation. 

Alexander Two.. March, August Seed. 

Artichoke One ..March or April Suckers. 

Asparagus One . . March or April Seed or Plants 

forced Many. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan, Feb Plants. 

Bahn One . .March or April Offsets, shoots, &c. 

Basil One . . March or April Seed. 

Beans, early Five . .From Oct. to July Seed. 

late Four . April or July . . . , Seed. 

Beets One .. February or April Seed. 

Borecole or kale Three. March, April, June Seed. 

Borage One . .February or March Seed. 

Broccoli Four . Mar. Apr. May, June, and Aug. Seed. 

Burnet One . .March or April Seeds and roots. 

Cabbages, early One . . August or September Seeds. 

late Four February, March, May, June. .Seeds. 

red Three. February, March, June Seeds. 

• savoy Two.. March, May, June Seeds. 

for cattle Three. May, June Seeds. 

for seed One . .October or November Seeds. 

Vamomile One . . March or April Parting roots. 

Capsicum One . .March or April Seeds. 

Carrots Three. Jan. Feb. March, April, July.. Seeds. 

Cauliflowers Four . August, Feb. March, May. .. .Seeds. 

Celery Five. .Feb. March, April, May, June. .Seeds. 

Cardoons One . .March or April Seeds. 

Chervil Two.. March, August Seeds. 

Chives One . .March or April Parting roots 

Clary One . .March or April Seeds. 

Coleseed One . .June or July Seeds. 

Coleworts Two. .February, June, or July Seeds. 

Corn-salad Two. .From March to August Seeds. 

Cress for seed One . .March or April Seed. 

for salad March to September Seed. 

on hot-beds October to March Seed. 

Cucumbers Five.. Jan. Feb. March, April, May.. Seed. 

on hot-beds. . . . Three .January, February, March. . . .Seed. 

for bell-glasses. One . .April Seed. 

on open ground. One ..May or June Seed. 

Dill One . . March or April Seed. 

Endive Four. .April, May, June, July Seed. 

Fennel Two. .February, August Seed. 

Finochio Four .April, May, June, July Seed. 

Garlic Two. . February, September Offsets. 

Horse-radish One . .February or March Cuttings of tlie rootfc. 

Hyssop One . . March or April Seed or slips. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Plants, Sec. No. of crops. Time of sowing or planting. Mode of propagatioB. 

Jerusalem artichokes One . .February or March Roots. 

Kidney-beans Five. .March, April, May, June, July. Seed. 

Lavender One . . May or June Slips and cuttings. 

Leeks One .. February or March Seed, 

Lettuces Seven. February to August Seed. 

Marjoram T wo . . March, April Seed or roots. 

Marigolds One . . February to April Seed. 

Mint One . .March or April Roots, of&ets, and aittingi 

Mushrooms Two.. March, September Spawn. 

Mustard, for seed One . .March or April Seed. 

I for salad. Mardi to September Seed. 

on hot-beds October to March Seed. 

Nasturtiums One . . March or April Seed. 

Onions, to draw young .... Four . Jan. Apr. May, July, and Aug. . Seed. 

pnncipal crop . . . .One . . February or March Seed. 

for seed One . .February or March Seed. 

Welsh Two.. July, August Seed. 

Parsley Three. February, March, July Seed. 

large-rooted Two. .February, April Seed. 

Parsneps Two. .February, March, or April . . . .Seed. 

Peas Five . . Oct. Jan. Feb. July, August . . . See'l. 

Pennyroyal One . .March or April Slips and roots. 

Potatoes Three.February, March, April ^Cuttings of the roots and 

on hot-beds One . . January or February ) 

V duce new varieties. 

Purslane Three. March, April, May Seed. 

Radishes Nine. .January to Aug. and Nov Seed. 

on hot-beds .. . .Two. .January, February Seed. 

■ for salad March to September Seed. 

for seed One . . May Seed. 

Rarapion One . . March or April Seed. 

Rape One . .June or July ...Seed. 

for salad March to September Seed. 

Rocambole Two. . February or September Offsets and cloves. 

Rosemary One . .May or June Cuttings and slips. 

Rue One . .March or April Slips, cuttings, and seed. 

Sage One ..March or April Slips and cuttings 

Salsafy One . .March or April Seed. 

Savory One ..March or April Seed. 

Scorzonera One . .March or April Seed. 

Skirrets One . .March or April Seed. 

Sorrel Two . . March, August Seed and parting rootv- 

Spinach Six . .February to July Seed. 

winter Two.. July, August, or September. . .Seed. 

Tansey One . .March or September Parting roots. 

Tarragon One ..March or September Roots, slips, and cuUings. 

Thyme One ..March or April Seeds, slips, and cuttings. 

Turnips Six . .March to August Seed. 

for seed One . . February Seed. 

Turnip-cabbage Two. .May, June Seed. 

Turnip-radish Two.. From January to September ..Seed 



THE 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



INTRODUCTION 

TO 

THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



Next in importance to the cultivation of culinary vegetables 
is that of fruits. Fruits have attracted the attention of man 
from the earliest period, and are supposed to have been the 
first vegetable production on which he fixed as an article of 
food. Of all fruits cultivated, the apple and fig are the most 
ancient. The vine is next in order ; the fruit of which not 
only served as food, but also as a beverage. The almond, 
vine, and pomegranate were cultivated in Canaan, and, with 
the addition of cucumbers and melons, were known to the 
Egyptians from time immemorial. The Romans, in the zenith 
of their glory, had the merit of not only introducing many 
fruits into Europe, but also of bringing many of them from 
Italy into Britain. After the Romans deserted this island, the 
fruits which they brought were probably either neglected or 
entirely lost, for we find many of them a second time re- 
introduced by the Norman conqueror, and also by Henry the 
Eighth ; and during the dark ages, they were carefully culti- 
vated by the clergy, who, William of Malmsbury informs us, 
not only planted orchards wherever they resided, but also vine- 
yards, and made wine. Wherever a monastery has stood, the 
remains of fruit-trees may be found ; the monks were gene- 
rally good gardeners, and displayed great skill in the choice of 
situation for their orchards ; indeed this choice often regulated 
the situation of the cathedral, for they seldom established 
themselves in situations unfavourable for the rearing of fruits. 



304 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



VV^illiam of Malmesbury says, that the gi\ipes produced in the 
vale of Gloucester were of the sweetest taste, and made most 
excellent wines. These vineyards were the sole property of 
the great barons, the monks, and abbots. 

Although we have no vestiges remaining of the vineyards of 
the monastic times, yet we have many specimens o-f their 
orchards, which are still, in several instances, in a productive 
states and although Henry the Eighth, by destroying many of 
the religious houses, dispersed and humbled the clergy, still 
he was attentive to the cultivation of fruits, and in his long 
reign, many were introduced into this country, amongst which, 
we are informed, were apricots, melons, and Corinth grapes. 
This monarch, at his palace of Nonsuch, in Surrey, culti- 
vated in a walled garden, the then astonishing number of two 
hundred and twelve fruit-trees. In the same reign, Derby- 
shire and Lancashire were both celebrated for orchards, and 
Gloucestershire and Herefordshire long before that period. 
About the beginning of the sixteenth century, Arnold's Chroni- 
cles appeared, in which the art of grafting, planting, and 
altering fruits, both in color and taste, are treated on, and it 
appears to be the first treatise on fruits, that this country has 
produced ; although long before that period, the cultivation of 
them had been attended to, not only by the monks, but also 
by the Druids. About this time. Cardinal Pole introduced 
the fig ; and the orange and pomegranate were also cultivated 
at Beddington. During the reigns of Elizabeth and Charles 
the First, fi-uits were much attended to. Charles the Second 
planted fruit-trees in his gardens at Hampton Court, Carlton, 
and in Marlborough gardens ; and Waller, the poet, in allud- 
ing to the two latter gardens, describes the mall in St. James' 
Park, as — 

" All with a border of rich fruit-trees crown'd." 

Sir William Temple and Sir Henry Caple cultivated fruit- 
trees, both as standards, and trained on w^alls ; Switzer de- 
scribes the trees of the former as being exquisitely well trained 
and nailed ; and the latter as having the choicest collection of 
fruits in England, as well as being the most skilful and indus- 
trious cultivator. In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



305 



fruits were multiplied and improved ; and in the nineteenth, 
they appear to have arrived at a degree of perfection, which 
could not have been anticipated by our ancestors, while content 
with the fruits which our native land produced. To the exer- 
tions of Knight, Braddick, and others, we are indebted for 
many of our best fruits, and not only for the improvement of 
our native sorts, but also for the inti'oduction of several foreign 
kinds. 

The cultivation of good fruits requires the utmost attention 
of the gardener. The introduction of a worthless culinary 
annual, or perennial vegetable into a garden, is a loss com- 
paratively trivial to the introduction of a worthless, or bad 
fruit-tree ; the one only disappoints us for a season, the other 
for a number of years. The one can be rectified, perhaps the 
same year, if not, the succeeding one ; but the other requires 
many years to arrive at that perfection, which will enable us to 
judge of its merits. The disappointment is therefore great, 
when we expect to be repaid for our trouble and anxious care 
for years, by seeing ourselves in the possession of a fine fruit, 
to find it at last a fi'uit of less merit than any other in the gar- 
den ; yet nothing is of so frequent occurrence. 

It is the fate of man to fall into error, and to overshoot the 
mark, when over-anxious in the pursuit of certain objects, and 
perhaps, in no instance, is the truth of this maxim more clearly 
exemplified than in the cultivation of fruits. It has become 
fashionable, and it appears to be the priminn mobile of certain 
horticulturists, to cultivate varieties and sub-varieties of fruits 
beyond all reasonable bounds ; many of which are disseminated 
over the country to the disappointment of hundreds. True it 
is, that new, or improved fruits, are only to be obtained by 
propagating many varieties, out of which those only of a supe- 
rior quality should be chosen. This is a laudable pursuit in 
the horticulturist, and to many eminent and intelligent gentle- 
men and gardeners, we are indebted for their unwearied exer- 
tions in this particular branch of horticultural science ; but it 
is to be regretted, that more attention and caution have not 
been exercised in distributing those sorts, which are of real 
merit, and consigning the less worthy to the fagot-pilo. 
C(;llections of fruit seem now to be more appreciated, in pro- 

2 R 



306 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



portion to iheir extent in the number of varieties, than in 
their actual merits. It is better to be contented with a few 
real good kinds, such as will be productive in most seasons, 
than to plant many sorts (even of those which are reckoned 
the finer) for the sake of variety, of which a crop is obtained 
only once in three, five, or seven years. Existing circum- 
stances should determine both the sorts and the number of 
varieties planted. In fine climates, soils, and situations, such 
as many parts of Devonshire, Somersetshire, Herefordshire, 
and Worcestershire, and in some situations in the vicinity of 
London, the finer sorts may be expected to repay and amply 
satisfy the proprietor; while to plant the same sorts in cold 
bleak situations and bad soils, would be attended with dis- 
appointment. The circumstances of the situation being taken 
first into consideration, the number and sorts should then be 
fixed upon, and out of the almost endless catalogue of fruits 
now to be had, sorts will be found to suit all reasonable situa- 
tions ; the chief difficulty, however, consists in making a pro- 
per selection. Few private gardens should contain more than 
twenty-five or thirty sorts of apples, twelve or twenty sorts 
of pears, and so in proportion with the other small fruits, 
such as strawben'ies and goosebemes excepted, as they occupy 
little room, and are soon in that state of bearing as to con- 
vince the owner whether they be or be not really worthy of 
his cultivation. 

By limiting the varieties of fi-uits in private gardens, we 
may be accused of wishing to cast a damp on the zealous 
efforts of the present cultivators of new and improved fruits ; 
but this is quite foreign to our views; indeed, we consider no 
stimulus too great for promoting that laudable object, which 
every horticulturist should constantly bear in his mind ; but 
still this aim should not be carried to the extent of depriving 
the proprietor of a supply of standard fruits, suflficient for the 
consumption of his family. A great neglect has been shewn, 
of late years, in the planting of many of our best standard 
fi*uits, and in some cases, they are totally banished fi'om the 
garden to make way for new ones, the merits of which are 
scarcely known, having been raised from seed imported from 
the continent, or recommended by some enthusiast with a 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



307 



Flemish or French name, which is, perhaps, the only thing that 
can be said in their favor. And thus, we find many gardens, 
which once were noted for the quantity and excellence of their 
fruits, now scarcely having one out of some hundred sorts, 
which is fit to eat, and in consequence, the owner is often 
obliged to apply to the nearest fruiterer to complete his 
dessert. We would recommend to all, who have it in their 
power to propagate fi*om seeds of approved sorts, particularly 
if they have been assisted in the important office of impreg- 
nation, by destroying carefully the pollen of one sort, and 
introducing that of another, as the most likely means of pro- 
ducing a variety participating of the good properties of both ; 
and, when the young plants are of sufficient strength, to plant 
them out in some favorable situation in the shrubbery, or 
otherwise, until they prove by their fruits whether they do or 
do not deserve a place in the garden. By judiciously ar- 
ranging them in the shrubbery or arboratum, they will har- 
monize with the other trees, and, at certain seasons, produce 
an agreeable effect, either by their flowers or their fruit. 
Those which are likely from their habit, to be approved of as 
distinct sorts, may be brought to fruit sooner by grafting, or 
buclding them upon an established tree. It will happen, in 
most gardens, that a particular sort may have been by accident 
planted, the firuit of which may be of little value ; in such 
cases, let this tree be fixed upon for a stock, on which to 
work any of the seedlings, that it may be desirous, from their 
appearance or other causes, to be proved, sooner than they 
would be by remaining on the seedling tree. By this method, 
a gi'eat many may be proved annually without the least incon- 
venience. The necessity of renewing fruit-trees by seed, for 
the purpose of either renewing the identical sort, or endea- 
vouring to procure a new or a better one, is obvious, as the 
various methods of propagation by grafting are, in no in- 
stance a renewal of the sort, or, in other words, making a 
new or young tree, for the case is wholly different. Every 
tree so propagated is no more than a prolongation of a part of 
the parent tree, by being amputated, and made fast to another 
root by means of grafting. There is no such thing as a new 
or young tree, excepting those, which are really raised from 



b08 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



seed. Every Ribston pippin in the kingdom, propagated by 
any other means than by seed, is no other than a part, a wing 
or a branch, of the original Ribston, discovered at Ribston 
Hall, in Yorkshire, and that such trees, it is supposed, do 
not only inherit the properties of the parent in size, shape, and 
flavor, but they also inherit all the train of diseases with which 
the original was affected. This is an important consideration, 
and deserves the most serious attention, as we see many of 
our old and standard fi'uits fast hastening to decay. Mr. 
Knight and others have discovered this in the Herefordshire 
orchards, in which many of the esteemed fruits, and which 
were really good one hundred years ago, are now scarcely so 
good as the wild apple in the hedges. Apples removed from 
one country to another are sometimes materially improved by 
the removal ; thus, the Balgon pippin, an esteemed Scotch 
apple, similar to the golden pippin, is supposed to be nothing 
else than the golden pippin imported from England, about the 
period when that fine apple was in its prime. The case is the 
same on the opposite side; the Ribston pippin, originally 
brought from England into Scotland, is there one of the finest 
apples in the country, and deserves a south wall in many 
places, much better than some of the inferior peaches ; while, 
on the other hand, when it has been again brought into Eng- 
land, it is not to be compared to many even of the third rank 
of merit. Although the Hawthorndean may be an exception 
to this rule, it is an excellent Scotch kitchen-apple, and is the 
same in the south of England. Many of the old apples and 
pears now growing in the old monastic orchards, appear to us 
to be of little merit, and we generally content ourselves with 
the idea, that they may have been esteemed by a monk of the 
twelfth century, because he had no better ; but, at the same 
time, it is probable, that the same apple or pear was then little 
inferior to our Jargonelle, or summer Boncretien. We have 
had an opportunity of observing an instance of this kind, in 
the garden of the clergyman of Kenmore, in Breadalbane, in 
which there is a Jargonelle tree of huge dimensions, and 
which probably has been a scion of one of the trees in the 
orchard of the nuns of Loch Tay, which is contiguous to it. 
This tree conlinucs to bear a great crop of fruit annually, but 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



309 



even in the remembrance of several people still living, it has 
so much degenerated, as to be very unlike to what it was in 
the early part of their remembrance. We meet with few good 
pears among the many old trees existing in those old orchards, 
but we may reasonably satisfy ourselves that they were fruits 
of great merit when in their prime. The most probable cause 
of this degeneracy is their having stood for many years upon 
the same spot, and, by the absorption of their roots, annually 
exhausted that nourishment, which is destined by nature for 
them, to which it may be added, that no fresh food is supplied 
them by the addition of manures, or other matters containing 
the necessary food of plants. It is probable, if some fruit-trees 
were supplied, as occasion required, with proper food, they 
might live as long as the poet has ever supposed the oak to live. 
We observe in the lower orders of vegetables, that change ol 
place is necessary for them ; a plant whose roots are prisoned 
within a pot, soon exhausts all the nutriment in the ball of 
earth that surrounds the roots^ and when that is the case, it 
soon ceases to flourish ; but if re-potted, and fresh mould given 
it to live in, it soon shows the change by assuming its wonted 
luxuriance. Hence we see the necessity of choosing good 
soil, either naturally or artificially made, for our fruit-trees. 



CHAP. L 



SITUATIONS AND SOILS FOR FRUIT-TREES. 

Fruit-trees are planted either for the supply of the pro- 
prietor's own table, or on a larger scale for profit, by disposing 
of the produce in the market, or in making the well-known 
liquors, cider and perry. 

Plantations of fruits for the latter purposes may be con- 
sidered under the same head, as they are for the most part 
cultivated in what is generally called an orchard, and the sorts 
are neither so select nor so well cultivated. Those for the 
former purpose are cultivated on a less scale, and the selectiop 



810 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



of fruits is usually more limited, and is generally understood 
by the appellation of the fruit-garden. 

With respect to the situation of public orchards, it should 
be rather elevated than low, as on a gentle declivity, inclining 
to the south, a free admission of the rays of sun and air is 
obtained, which is requisite to dry up the damps, disperse the 
fogs, render the trees healthy, and give a fine flavor to 
the fruits. It should be likewise well sheltered from the east, 
north, and west winds, by plantations, if not naturally shel- 
tered by hills or rising grounds. Many orchards are admirably 
situated by the sides of rivers, sheltered by the winding banks, 
and sloping to the south, east, or west. Where plantations 
are necessary for shelter, they should not be either too high, 
nor too near the orchard, as where that is the case, they pre- 
vent a free circulation of air, which is of as much injury to 
the trees as if they were not sheltered at all. The soil is of 
more importance probably to the welfare of the trees, than 
any particular shelter, excepting in very bleak and exposed 
places. In the cider counties, we see orchards, in all situa- 
tions as regards shelter, thriving almost equally well ; we often 
see them on the tops of hills exposed to all the winds that 
blow ; we see them in valleys sheltered from every wind ; yet 
both seem to pay the proprietor to his satisfaction, or else they 
would be soon rooted up. No rule can be laid down to spe- 
cify exactly the soil most suitable for fruit-trees, neither is it to 
be supposed that every one, who wishes to plant an apple-tree, 
has that choice in his power. There is no doubt that certain 
soils are more fitted for the cultivation of fruit-trees than others ; 
hence we find orchards thriving in soils not considered by any 
means good ; while, on the other hand, we find, in soils sup- 
posed to be excellent, that they will scarcely flourish at all. 
In those situations, where fruit-trees are observed to thrive, 
cultivation ought to be extended ; and in those which are found 
from experience to be unfit for them, they should not be 
attempted, at least with the intention of making them a source 
of profit in trade. The majority of fruit-trees will thrive in a 
loamy earth of a middling texture, providing it lie on a whole- 
some substratum, and be of a competent depth. We fre- 
quently meet with an excellent situation for an orchard, where 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



311 



the soil is various ; where some is good, and some is very in- 
different; in such cases, we must either improve the bad soil, 
or in planting, suit the different kinds of fruits to the nature of 
the different soils contained in the intended orchard. It would 
be a fruitless task to plant where the bottom is not naturally 
dry, or capable of being made so by draining. Wet, heavy, 
stubborn soils, are to be avoided equally so with soils which 
are of a light, sandy, sterile nature. The shining gi'avelly 
soils disagree very much with fruit-trees, unless there be a 
good quantity of loam intermixed with them. On a soil rather 
shallow, and on a chalky bottom, they seldom succeed ; and 
where the bottom is a cold spongy clay, they seldom thrive. 
But where such is the case, and other circumstances com- 
bining, the ground may be prepared by trenching, and ele- 
vating the stations for the trees above the general level, which 
will in a gi'eat measure secure their roots for some time from 
penetrating into the noxious sub-soil. When trees are planted 
in such situations, the roots may be prevented from extending 
to an unnecessary depth, by placing rough pavement under 
them, or laying a floor of brick, or forming one of clay and 
coal-ashes, allowing both to be pretty dry before the trees are 
planted. To each tree planted may be given three or four 
wheelbarrows full of good surface-mould, v/hich has been pre- 
pared for them for some previous months by frequent turning 
and exposure to the atmosphere. Dung should be avoided in 
all cases, unless the soil be very poor indeed, and then it 
should be of the rottenest description, as nothing tends to 
produce canker and gum so much as strong dung, although 
we see it practised daily by many who, in other respects, are 
excellent fruit-growers. In regard to the size of an orchard, 
that must be regulated entirely by the use for which it is in- 
tended, as well as the quantity of fruit expected; also the 
quantity of cider or perry intended to be made ; and the extent 
of ground fit for the purpose, or which can be conveniently 
spared. 



V 



312 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



SEASON OF PLANTING. 

In regard to the season of planting, it may be performed 
with success at different periods, according to the nature of 
the land. The best time for planting dry soils is in October • 
but if in wet soils, the end of February or March is better. 
The chief principle in this business is to suit the trees to the 
soil, and to plant them at proper distances fi'om each other. 
Fruit-trees, when planted too thick, are supposed to be liable to 
blight, and become overgrown with various species of lichens, 
and other mosses, particularly the family of Ramalina, which 
are the most injurious to, and the most fi'equent on fruit-trees, 
and are supposed to rob them of their nourishment, but this 
is not satisfactorily proved ; on the contrary, it rather appears 
that they live on the moisture of the atmosphere, which is 
always the case where trees are closely crowded. The cir- 
cumstance of lichens, and other mosses, living and growing 
on the hardest granite, and even on iron, is an argument 
against their robbing the trees of any share of nourishment. 
As their roots are very minute, and incapable of insinuating 
themselves into the bark of trees, it is probable that they do 
not extract their nourishment from them, at least not to such 
an extent as to injure them. Their appearance on fruit-trees 
is more rationally accounted for on the following grounds. 
We never see parasitic plants of the Cryptogamous class 
growing on trees in a truly healthy state, but we uniformly 
find them abounding on trees which are more or less in a state 
of sickliness, and approaching to decay. The more un- 
healthy a tree is, and particularly if its disease have been 
brought on by being shaded, so as to prevent a free circula- 
tion of air, the more profusely will it be found to be covered 
with innumerable species of mosses and fungi. 

The tree must be already diseased, and the pores of the 
epidermis closed up, and transpiration obstructed, before it 
can be in a fit state to become the place of growth of those 
vegetables. The juices of the trees must be first vitiated, from 
some cause or other proceeding fi'om the soil or situation, and 
the blight or mildew, which is a very minute parasitic fiingus, 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



313 



then makes its appearance, and as the tree becomes more 
diseased, the more profusely will the fungi appear. The blight 
was well known to the ancient Greeks, but they were totally 
ignorant of its cause. They regarded it merely as a blast from 
heaven, indicating the displeasure of their offended Gods, and 
that it was perfectly incurable. The Romans also knew it 
under the denomination of rubigo. They regarded it in the 
same light as the Greeks, and supposed it under the imme- 
diate direction of Rubigus, one of their gods, whom they 
always invoked, that the blight might be kept off from corn 
and trees. It is at the present time well known both to the 
agriculturist and gardener, and has been very differently ac- 
counted fw ; indeed, in proportion as words have multiplied 
upon the subject, the difficulties attending its elucidation have 
increased. 



PROCURING THE TREES. 

In providing trees to plant an orchard, it is well to choose 
them from some eminent fi'uit-tree grower, as less risk is run 
in being deceived in the sorts ; and in making a selection, it is 
better to be content with fewer sorts, provided that they be 
good, than to introduce a number, and then to have to grub 
up one half of them, when they have arrived at maturity. It 
is of importance to choose them from a soil similar to that in 
which they are to be planted, or as near to it as can be ob- 
tained, but if it be a worse soil, so much the better. Trees 
are found to thrive best that have been grown on a poor soil, 
when they arc removed to a better ; and trees grown in a rich 
soil, when transplanted into a worse, seldom recover the change. 
Care should be taken to choose such as are, to all appearance, 
free of canker, or which are not bruised or damaged. They 
ought to be chosen the summer before planting, and then care- 
fully examined to see whether they be affected with insects, 
which, if it be the case, they should by all means be rejected. 
It is always better to pay double price for clean healthy trees, 
than take those which are unhealthy even as a gift. If the 
orchard, which is generally the case, is to be ultimately pas- 
tured with cattle, choose standards having clean straight stems 

2 b 



314 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



of four or five feet in height ; the apples being wrought on 
crab-stocks and the pears on free-stocks, and commonly such 
as are one or two years from the graft. In tliis instance, the 
Herefordshire orchardists commit an error, by planting trees 
often five, six, or more years fi'om the graft, expecting thereby 
to have them in fruit sooner, and that they will not be so liable 
to be injured by cattle ; but they would be more successful if 
they planted younger trees, and were at more trouble in pro- 
tecting them, not only while young, but also when they are 
fully established. Care should also be taken, in taking them 
up, that their roots be not bruised nor twisted, and that they 
be carefully packed, if sent to a distance. 



PLANTING THE TREES. 

In regard to the proper distance for planting the trees, it 
should be regulated by the natural growth or spreading of 
them when ftilly grown, as well as by the goodness of the 
soil. It was formerly the practice to have them planted in 
lines of not more than eight or ten yards apart, but latterly 
they have been justly planted at a greater distance. From 
thirty to forty-five feet is the distance given in most of the 
cider counties ; but this ought to be regulated by the soil and 
sort of trees. If planted in a cold, bleak, exposed situation, 
and in a poor soil, where the trees are not expected to gi'ow to 
a great size, twenty-five or thirty feet are sufficient ; whereas 
in a good soil, and sheltered situation, a distance of forty or 
forty -five may not be too great. 

Cherries and plums may be planted at from twenty to thirty 
feet, according to the soil and the goodness or badness of the 
situation. But it is advisable, in the first planting, to plant 
four trees for one that is finally to remain at the above dis- 
tances, planting the proper kinds at the distances as above- 
mentioned, and then the temporary plants between them each 
way, which temporary plants should be some of the fi-eely grow- 
ing sorts, that fririt early, such as the white or Caswick codlin, 
white Hawthorndean apples, May-duke cherries, and Craw- 
ford and other early fruiting pears ; or any others known in 
the country where the orchard may be planted, that will fruit 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



315 



as early, if not earlier, than those just mentioned. These 
should be considered and treated as temporary plants from the 
beginning, and must give place to the principal trees, as they 
advance in growth, by being pruned away by degrees, and at 
last grubbed up entirely. In bleak and exposed situations, 
there can be no objection to introduce a few forest-trees ju- 
diciously among the fruit-trees, to shelter and nurse them up ; 
the forest-trees to be cut away by degrees as the others get 
up, and ultimately taken away altogether. In this operation 
choose those which are of most rapid growth, such as poplars, 
plane, &c. ; round the boundary of the orchard, Scotch geans, 
a small sort of hai'dy cherry, filberts and other nuts, quinces, 
service-trees, &c. should be planted ; and to these, walnuts and 
chesnuts should be added: they will of themselves form a 
good shelter, and will by their fruits pay well for the ground 
which they occupy. Medlars, mulberries, &c. should be added 
to the other fruit-trees in the orchard, and all sorts of fruits 
that will ripen upon standards. In the process of planting, at 
whatever season of the year, and in whatever soil, care should 
be taken to have a sufficient quantity of puddle made, by 
pouring an adequate quantity of water upon the ground, and 
by stirring it about, so as to make a puddle of rather a thick 
consistency, through which gently draw the roots of the trees 
two or three times, or as often as necessary, until the roots be 
covered well with the puddle. This will be of much service 
to them, and will not only keep the roots moist, but will greatly 
encourage the emitting of young roots immediately after plant- 
ing. Where this is not done, the same end will be obtained 
by giving a supply of water to the roots, as the mould is put 
about them in the process of planting. As soon as the trees 
are planted, they should be prevented fi'om being blown about 
by the wind, by being supported by proper stakes or other 
props, for where this is not attended to, much injury is done to 
the young tender fibres; the gi'ound is also opened by the 
stem pressing the mould away on all sides, thus leaving a 
hole, by which, in the first place, too much wet penetrates to the 
roots of the tree, and the frost succeeding, freezes the whole 
into a solid mass ; its expansive power tears and lacerates the 
roots, and in spring they will ultimately be destroyed by the 



316 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



sharp drying winds. More trees, both fruit and forest, are 
destroyed by not paying sufficient attention to this point, than 
by any other cause whatever. Great care, however, must 
be taken in staking up the trees to prevent rubbing, for the 
fi'iction produced by the tree rubbing against the prop will 
soon lacerate and bruise the bark, canker follows, and the tree 
is ruined. To guard against this evil, a piece of old mat or a 
small bundle of soft hay should be introduced between the 
stem of the tree and its prop, and the whole neatly tied toge- 
ther with a piece of tarred cord, taking care not to tie the cord 
too tight, which would prevent the stem from swelling. In 
situations where hares or rabbits are likely to get in to injm*e 
the trees, care must be taken to protect them from thehr at- 
tacks. Many modes have been adopted to preserve the stems 
of trees fi'om these animals, but the most effectual and surest 
method is to clothe the stems vnth an envelope of moss, short 
grass, or litter, wound round with shreds of matting or rope- 
yarn ; this not only protects them from hares, but is of great 
use the first year after planting, to keep the bark moist, and 
thereby aid the ascent and the circulation of the sap in the 
alburnum. This operation should be performed immediately 
after planting, and left on till by decay it drops oft' of itself: 
it is of singular service in late planting, or when, from unfore- 
seen circumstances, summer planting is necessary. When this 
envelope drops oft', and exposes the stems again to their at- 
tacks, let it be a rule, before the approach of winter, to bush 
them round with thorns, which will, if properly effected, pre- 
serve them, and will not injure them ; or they may be again 
bound round with hay-bands, from the surface as high as it is 
likely that the animals can reach ; this, if properly put on, will 
remain for two years. In a few years the trees will be suffi- 
ciently proof against them, unless in very severe weather. 
The first summer after planting, the young trees should be 
occasionally supplied with water accoriUng to circumstances ; 
and this should be administered with a bountiful hand. In 
order to prevent as little of the water being wasted as possible, 
make a basin or hollow round the stem of each tree, which 
will contain the water until it soaks down to the roots. Fill 
this basin with littery dung to the thickness of five or six 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



817 



inches, and to prevent its being blown about, cover it with a 
little mould. This nourishes the young roots, by preventing 
the drought from penetrating to their injury. It is also of 
consequence to cover the ground round the roots with long 
littery dung or fern, in order to prevent the frost from reaching 
the roots, during the first winter after planting, that is, if they 
have been planted in autumn ; after the first year this need not 
be done. In planting all sorts of trees, particularly fruit-trees, 
great care should be taken not to plant them at too great a 
depth. In good soils it is injurious to them, as it buries their 
roots so deep, as to be beyond the reach of the rays of heat, 
and induces them to go deeper for that nourishment which 
they can only find near the surface. Almost all roots are dis- 
posed to run to a certain degree horizontally, and if planted 
too deep, they can never approach near enough the surface, 
where their nourishment is prepared for them. In bad soils, 
it is better to plant upon the surface, or nearly so, and gather 
the mould round into a hill, which, by being increased as thf 
tree advances in gi'owth, will materially promote its welfare, by 
supplying it with fresh nourishment as the roots diverge from 
the centre. In planting extensive orchards, there can be no 
objection to cultivating the ground between the rows of trees ; 
care being taken, for the first years of their growth, that no 
injury be done them by the plough or spade. Such crops as 
potatoes and turnips will rather benefit the trees than other- 
wise ; for the operation of preparing the ground for such crops 
will ameliorate the soil, and tend to improve the trees: the 
trees should not be planted promiscuously, those of high lofty 
habits should be planted upon the elevated spots, or be planted 
by themselves to form a sort of back ground, and the less 
lofty sorts in the middle, while the lowest of all should oc- 
cupy the front. 

The trees when planted in this manner will have a fine eflfect 
when grown up ; but if they be planted promiscuously, they 
will not appear so agreeable to the eye, independently of 
which the smaller trees will be shaded by the larger ones, 
which will not only injure them, but spoil the flavor of the 
fruit. The trees, where cattle are allowed to pasture, should 
be protected from their browsing, or rubbing against their 



318 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



stems, particularly when young, by placing a triangular fence 
round each tree, and a few branches of thorn drawn through 
their upper rails. That curious plant Viscum album, the 
misletoe, is very injurious to many apple-trees in countries 
where it abounds. It should be eradicated wherever it ap- 
pears, for if not attended to, it grows so rapidly as to shade 
the fruit, and prevent the necessary circulation of air among 
the branches. 



CHAP. IL 



THE PRIVATE ORCHARD OR FRUIT-GARDEN. 



SITUATION AND SOIL FOR THE PRIVATE ORCHARD OR FRUIT-GARDEN. 

With respect to private orchards or fruit-gardens, it is often 
necessary, and always proper, to connect them with the culi- 
nary garden, provided circumstances will admit of it. In 
choosing the situation, in providing shelter, and improving the 
soil if it be necessary, more attention is required than in tlie 
orchard already described. There, only such trees will be 
introduced, as are known from their hardy constitution to be 
likely to bring their fruits to perfection without having recourse 
to artificial means ; but in the fruit-garden the case is difFerent,. 
here, the finest and more tender fruits will be planted, many 
of which will require gi'eat skill and attention from the culti- 
vator to bring them to any degi'ee of perfection, and therefore 
we should be more particular in choosing a proper situation 
and soil. The most eligible situation for a fruit-garden, con- 
sidered as such, may be placed upon any side of the kitchen- 
garden most suitable to the situation and nature of the ground, 
and according to convenience ; or it may surround the garden, 
either simply as an orchard, or as an orchard and shrubbery or 
arboratum combined. Where economy is an object, and where 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



319 



there is not sufficient scope, perhaps the latter way may be the 
most advisable. Where there is plenty of room, a separate 
fruit-garden may be made on any side of the garden that may 
be considered most eligible, in which not only the larger sorts 
of fruits, such as apples and pears, are to be grown ; but all 
others, such as cherries, plums, gooseberries, currants, rasp- 
berries, strawberries, &c., so as to obviate the necessity of 
crowding the kitchen-garden with them ; indeed, such is our 
view of the case, that we should wish to see no fruits culti- 
vated in the kitchen-garden, excepting on the walls, and pro- 
bably strawberries in the quarters, as a resting crop for the 
soil. This sort of orchard should be so arranged as to pro- 
duce a good effect when the whole are grown up. The larger 
trees should be arranged, as hinted at in the planting of public 
orchards ; the ground may be here cultivated with culinary 
crops, which will increase the surface for that purpose, and give 
ample opportunity for resting the soil by having a certain pro- 
portion either under grass or summer fallow, as advised in the 
article on the rotation of crops. Under the trees, in hot sultry 
weather, many vegetables will prosper, which would not thrive 
so well if fully exposed to the full sun. Strawberries gene- 
rally thrive in moderately shaded situations, as well as almost 
all other of the small fruits, shaded groves being their natural 
place of growth. The distance that the trees should be planted 
from each other must depend on the size of the ground, the 
sorts of trees planted, whether standard, dwarfs, or espaliers, 
the latter of which, though not commonly planted in orchards, 
deserves to be more particularly encouraged. Maiden plants, 
or such as are from two to three years from the bud or graft, 
should be preferred to older trees. The distance at which 
standard trees should be placed need not be more than from 
twenty to thirty feet. Dwarfs will require a little less, for as 
they will not be allowed that scope, as in public orchards, less 
room will be sufficient for them. Espaliers may be planted on 
iron or wooden trellices or railings, of from four to eight feet 
in height, and the trees should stand according to their kinds 
and mode of training. Apples, eighteen or twenty feet, if 
fan-trained, and from that distance to thirty, if horizontally 
trained; the latter is probably the ])et(or {)lan for low walls or 



320 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



espaliers ; cherries from twelve to fifteen ; pears from twenty 
to thirty ; and plums from fifteen to twenty ; planting the spaces 
between each with currants, gooseberries, or raspberries, as a 
temporary crop to be cut away as the trees extend their 
branches. The same should be done between the standards, 
if dwarf standards. In the rows should be planted, between 
each tree intended permanently to remain, such sorts of fi'uits 
as will come into bearing sooner than some of the more choice 
kinds ; such apples as the white Hawthorndean, white cod- 
lin ; and such pears as the Crawford or Lammas ; May-duke 
cherries, Orleans plums, and such like, and if required, goose- 
berries and currants, or raspberries. 

In planting espaliers in an orchard, choice should be made 
of that part which is the most sheltered from cutting winds, 
and most exposed to the rays of the sun, as espaliers are sub- 
stitutes for walls, and which they so far resemble, that trees are 
regularly trained upon them, and thereby fully exposed to the 
light and heat of the sun, consequently are less liable to be 
injured by winds than standards. The fruits ripened upon espa- 
liers arc supposed to be intermediate in quality, between those 
ripened upon walls and standards ; but to obtain this effect, 
they should always run from east to west, and may be ex- 
tended the whole length of the orchard or fruit-garden, or run 
in lines parallel to each other at a distance of fifteen feet, so 
that the shadow of the one may not fall on the surface of 
another. Espalier-rails are either constructed of wood or iron, 
and are of different forms. Those of wood are in most general 
use, and so far as we know, are better than iron ones. The 
simplest kind, and which is much used in Scotland, is merely 
a straight row of stakes, driven into the ground at nine or 
twelve inches asunder, and from four to five feet in height, and 
joined and kept in a straight line at top by a rail of wood, or 
thin plate of iron, through which a nail is driven into the centre 
of each stake. If the wood used be larch, fi'om trees which are 
cut out of the plantations in the process of thinning, the bark 
scraped off, and the ends, being charred, sunk in the ground, 
they will last for six or eight years, and often longer, and are 
perhaps the best so-rt of espalier-rail used, as the expense is 
trifling, and every purpose attained that can possibly be by 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. ' 321 

such as arc put up at a gi-eat expense, and will be out of repair 
ill much the same time. Larch or other wood, with the bark 
left on, will last longer, but it has not so neat an appearance, 
as the bark after a time will come off in pieces. In a rustic 
or Swiss garden, we would recommend the bark being left on, 
as being more in character with the place. 




U i U 

Iron espaliers are in some places used; they resemble a 
common street railing. The columns or stiles may be either 
fixed into oaken blocks {a a) ; or, when this mode is not 
adopted, to form their base in the shape of a reversed j^, set- 
ting them on a foundation of brick-work. Such rails may be 
erected at something more, in regard to expense, than wooden 
ones, but as soon as the oaken blocks, into which they are 
fixed, begin to decay round their outer circumference, a va- 
cancy is thus formed between the posts and the ground, which 
is daily increased by the shaking of the rail by wincl^ or other 
causes, and, in consequence, the rails soon get twisted, which 
is increased by the expansive and contractive property of the 
metallic matter, and in a few years becomes very unsightly. 

2 T 



322 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



This is one of the causes of the principal failure in all wire 
fences and all metallic erections founded on wooden bases. 

Espalier rails are sometimes constructed of fi'ames fitted 
with vertical bars, at eight or twelve inches asunder, and should 
be nailed on in preference to mortising, in order to preserve 
the strength of the upper and lower rails. The end stiles or 
uprights of the frame should be set on {not in) stone piers, 
and kept upright with irons leaded into the stone. Oaken 
posts, or larch charred, are set into the ground instead of 
stones, to which the stiles of the frames are attached, and if 
they be wedged round at bottom with small stones, or brick- 
bats, they will last for some years. They are all to be painted 
some cheap color when put up, and this painting should be 
renewed once every four or five years. The best materials 
should be chosen for this purpose, as well as for all horticul- 
tural erections, and not any rubbish, unfit for other purposes, 
w^hich we daily see done upon the principle of what is called 
economy. 

There are many other forms of espalier rails, but all appear 
to possess some peculiar objection. The perpendicular is cer- 
tainly the most preferable, besides having a more elegant and 
natural appearance. The horizontal espalier rail or table is 
objected to, because it constrains the trees into a form the most 
unnatural, and is the most unflivorable position to enjoy the 
rays of heat to advantage, as well as the loss of the surface of 
the ground under it. The oblique espalier rail is objected to, 
as only one side of the tree can enjoy any sun, and the other 
side is too much shaded, when running from east to west, and 
when from north to south can only enjoy half the day's sun. 

Between every second or third line of fruit-trees in the fruit- 
garden, grass or gravel-walks should be made, for the conve- 
nience of gathering the fruits, or other necessary manage- 
ment, and the whole, in whatever shape it be constructed, 
should be surrounded with a walk of moderate breadth, se- 
parating the fruit-garden from the plantation for shelter, or 
other parts of the grounds. This plantation for shelter should 
be composed principally of fruit-trees of the more hardy kinds, 
such as filberts in front, and chestnuts, walnuts, &c. in the 
rear, intermixed with ornamental forest-trees and shrubs 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 



32S 



CHAP. HI, 



SELECTING TREES FOR THE FRUIT-GARDEN AND PLANTING. 

As has already been noticed, a selection of good fruits is 
better than a long catalogue of names, the merits of which are 
not properly known. Future success depends upon a good 
selection, and the natural situation and soil are of too much 
importance to be overlooked. Such sorts should be preferred 
as are known for their merits, either for early ripening, fine 
flavor, long keeping, or other properties, wdiich may be con- 
sidered as most useful to the owner. A certain portion of all, 
which are possessed of these properties should be planted, 
but a smaller proportion of the first sort. In the lists of fruits 
given in this work, notice will be taken of the seasons in 
which they ripen, and the length of time that they will keep, 
and fi-om them, a proper selection should be made. Accord- 
ing to the instructions given in the article of public orchards, 
care should be taken to procure the trees from some eminent 
fruit-grower, as being less likely to meet with disappointment. 
Another important consideration is to have healthy trees, free 
from all appearance of canher, gum, insects, &c. ; for this pur- 
pose, where it is found convenient, the selection should be 
made in summer, when most of their faults are more easily 
detected. It is a dangerous thing to introduce a tree infected 
with certain diseases, particularly such as are of the infectious 
sorts. It not only destroys the tree itself, but probably spreads 
over all the garden ; and as a preventive is always better than 
a cure, it is better to avoid planting a tree under suspicious 
appearances. Presuming that the ground has been properly 
trenched, drained, and previously ameliorated, proceed at the 
proper seasons, either in November, for soils of a light de- 
scription, or for soils of a strong and rather damp texture, in 
February or March, to plant the various sorts of trees, as has 
been directed in a former part of the work. 

In situations where, from a variety of circumstances, it 
may be found inconvenient or impossible to devote a separate 



321 



THE TRACTICAL GARDENER. 



piece of ^.ound for a fruit-garden, then the usual mode of 
introducing them into the cuhnary-garden must be adopted. 
There are many very excellent examples of fruit-trees having 
been introduced, either as espaliers planted along the sides of 
the walks, or as dwarf or half-standards, either along the sides 
of the walks, or in rows through the middle of the quarters. 
In both cases, they generally do well, for the ground having 
been previously made for the culinary vegetables, is generally 
pretty good for fruit-trees. Some give the preference to dwarf 
standards, some to espaliers, and others recommend a variety 
of stiff and unnatural forms of training, such as spiral-dwarfs, 
fusiform, conical, and concave or cup-shaped dwarfs. How- 
ever fascinating these plans may appear, they are, like most 
of the French and Dutch modes of training, radically bad, 
and certain of defeating the object in view, namely, having fine 
fruit and healthy trees. 

Espaliers, if well trained, either fan-formed, or which is 
more common, although less natural, horizontally formed, 
have a good effect in a kitchen-garden, and, by being planted 
from three to three and a half, or four feet from the walks, 
according to the size of the garden, will form an agreeable 
hedge or blind, by which the interior of the garden can be 
concealed. The narrow borders may be planted, according 
to fancy, either with flowers or strawberries ; or dwarf- 
standards, or Buzzelars, may be planted along the sides of 
the walks with pretty good eftbct, if well kept, and produce 
a great quantity of fruit in most seasons. Tall standard-trees 
should be never admitted into a small garden, as casting too 
great a shade ; neither should espaliers be above four or five 
feet high, nor dwarf-standards too thickly planted, nor be 
allowed to attain too great a height. From six to eight feet 
may be taken for the extreme height. In gardens of larger 
extent, the espalier-trees may be allowed from six to eight feet 
in height, but six feet will always have a better effect than 
if extended to a greater height. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



CHAP. IV. 



ON THE FORMATION OF BORDERS FOR FRUIT-TREES. 

As the best sorts of fruit capable of coming to perfection in 
this climate are reserved for the walls of all gardens, and in- 
deed the principal object in building walls round gardens is 
really intended for the production of fruits, which without 
them would not ripen in this uncertain and variable climate, 
and as fences of less expensive materials would answer every 
purpose of protection and shelter obtained from walls ; the 
preparation of the borders next the walls should be attended 
to with more attention than is generally bestowed upon them. 
As our chief object is to produce fine fruit, we must first pro- 
duce fine trees, and fine trees cannot be obtained in a soil not 
calculated for their growth. Where no objection exists to the 
expense of forming good borders, they may be made in almost 
all places; but where the expense is a consideration, they 
must be improved as far as circumstances will admit of ; and 
where the expense is not to be incurred, nor the soil natu- 
rally good, then only such fruits as are suited to the ground 
should be attempted. It would be in vain to expect the finer- 
fruits in a bad soil. !Mr. Neill, an able Scotch horticulturist, 
observes in the Edin. Encyc. art. Hort. " On soils natu- 
rally very light, gravelly, and sandy, peach and nectarine trees 
do little good : it is better to plant figs or vines, which agree 
with such soils, and when trained against a wall, in a good 
aspect, will, in the southern parts of the island, afford excel- 
lent crops of fruit." 

Peach and nectarine trees produce some of the finest fruits 
brought to the dessert, and the best walls of the highest cul- 
tivated gardens are reserved for their production. Next to 
them is the vine, but as few sorts of grapes, even in favorable 
seasons, ripen sufficiently well with us, any length of wall is 
seldom taken up with them. The fig is a tree equally tender 
with the vine, indeed more so, as in many situations the tree 
is not sufficiently hardy to resist some of our severe winters, 



326 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



while the vine is seldom injured ; still the fig will mature its 
fruit under circumstances, where the grape will not ripen. The 
apricot is nearly allied to the peach, and will thrive in similar 
situations, indeed in such as are really not so good, and it 
seldom refuses to ripen its fruit in our most northerly gardens. 
Next in importance to these fruits are some of the finest con- 
tinental pears and American apples. Plums and cherries will 
often succeed, where neither of the above-mentioned fruits will 
thrive. In preparing borders for those trees, we will consider 
them in the following routine : the peach, nectarine, and apri- 
cot. The two former are so nearly allied to each other, that 
it has been supposed by many, that they have sprung from one 
common origin, and therefore are only varieties of the same spe- 
cies. Linnoeus considered them as one species, differing only 
in the one having downy fruit, and the other smooth. There 
are many instances on record of both peaches and nectarines 
growing on the same tree, and sometimes on the same branch. 
One instance is recorded in the Horticultural Transactions, of 
one single fruit partaking of the nature of both. The French 
consider them as one fruit, arranging them in four divisions, 
downy peaches with free stones, and downy peaches with cling 
stones ; smooth peaches, or our nectarines, with free stones, 
and smooth peaches with cling stones ; and many botanists 
consider the peach and almond as one species. 

In preparing the borders for peach, apricot, and nectarine 
trees, the first consideration is to render the bottom perfectly 
dry by draining ; indeed, this precaution ought to be taken to 
a certain degree, even where the bottom is perfectly dry, in 
order to guard against accidental floods of water, or a long 
series of wet weather in autumn, as their roots are very impa- 
tient of too much wet. Where the borders are to be well 
done, tlie natural soil should be entirely taken out to the depth 
under the ground-level of the wall, of thirty inches or three 
feet; the bottom should be rendered smooth, with a consider- 
able fall from the wall to the walk sufficient to allow any water 
that may collect to run freely off towards the walk, under 
which should be a well-formed drain of the best materials the 
nature of the place can afford. Stones or flints are to be pre- 
ferred, when they can be got ; brick-bats are the next best for 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



327 



this purpose, or pieces of chalk which have not been exposed 
to the weather. Where neither of these is to be got, fagot- 
wood is to be used. Let this drain have a suflicient fall to 
carry the water either clear off to the outside of the garden, 
or else to some main drain, where it will be carried off' v/ith 
the other superfluous water, collected in the garden. Upon 
the bottom of the border thus prepared, lay some well wrought 
clay, which should be spread equally over the whole, three or 
four inches thick, sprinkling a little good lime amongst it; 
over this lay two or three inches of finely sifted coal-ashes, 
and let the whole be well incorporated by treading, and 
after partly dried, well rolled, until the whole form a compact 
solid floor. This operation should be carried on in dry wea- 
ther, to admit of its drying quickly. This will form a com- 
pact floor, such as many barn and cottage-floors are composed 
of, and will not be readily penetrated by any roots that the 
trees may send down. The compost, which should have been 
preparing for some months previously, by being turned over 
and exposed to the air, should then be brought forward, and 
thrown into the border ; if the soil that was taken out, were 
naturally good, and of a loamy nature, a portion of it may be 
again returned into the border, and well mixed with the new 
earth, and the border filled up a foot or fifteen inches above 
the intended level to allow for sinking. This should be all 
done through the summer, previous to planting the trees. The 
soil prepared for this border should be such as is often met 
with upon old sheep-downs, and of that sort generally known 
by the appellation of light rich loam, of a hazel color, and 
friable texture, crumbling to pieces in the hand, by rubbing, 
and containing a large portion of fibrous matter, or the rotted 
roots of plants. Such soil as this is anxiously sought for by 
the nurserymen for their gi'een-house plants, and if good, is 
the best soil we have ever found for peaches, and will be suffi- 
ciently calcidated to grow fine healthy trees without any com- 
pound whatever. If manure is to be added, from a supposi- 
tion that the virgin loam is not rich enough, prefer that of 
deconri)osed vegetable matter, such as is generally called vege- 
table moidd. Avoitl, if possible, the addition of dung for 
those trees, as it only excites them to grow luxuriantly, and 



328 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



to imbibe nourishment too strong for their constitution, and 
ultimately bring on a train of diseases, arising, if we may so 
call it, from a too full habit. GumSy can/cers, and other well- 
known diseases, derive their origin more fi'om gross feeding 
than from any other cause, if we except accidental wounds. 

When the mould is first brought from the downs, choose 
the top spit only, unless the depth of loam be uncommonly 
good ; the surface is, however, the best, taking care to have 
all the turf or vegetable matter taken also, which, by under- 
going decomposition in the process of turning, and ameliora- 
tion, will greatly enrich the whole. If such earth cannot be 
got, which is often the case, search must be made for the best 
that can be found, and if too light, add a portion of stronger 
loam, or scourings of stagnant ditches which have been for 
some time exposed to the air to sweeten; blend the whole 
together, and if not sufficiently strong, add a portion of good 
garden-mould to it ; but the more simple the preparation, the 
better will it be. If the mould be too strong, add a sufficient 
quantity of road scrapings, very rotten vegetable mould, with 
a small proportion of sand, which contains the least iron that 
can be got. If at any time, or in any case, in forming or re- 
newing borders for peach-trees, the composition collected is 
not rich enough, which will seldom be the case, unless in a 
very poor soil indeed, and dung must be added, prefer the 
dung of cows or hogs to that of horses, as being of a more 
cooling nature, but in all cases, it should be rotten to a com- 
plete mould. Turf collected by the sides of roads, and loamy 
ditches cut up and well rotted, form of themselves a good soil 
for peaches. 

Where this mode may be considered too expensive, let tlie 
borders be trenched over to the depth of at least three feet ; 
and, in the process of trenching, remove from it all gravelly 
or clayey soil, both of which are hurtful to peach-trees, and 
in proportion to the quantity removed, substitute a like pro- 
portion of good loam, such as is described above. The better 
the borders are prepared in the first formation, the less trouble 
will they be in future, and instead of disappointment arising 
from want of fi*uit, and dead trees, the quantity of fruit, and 
health of the trees, will be in proportion to the care taken in 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



the formation of the border, supposing all other circumstances 
to combine in their favor. 

Vines will succeed in a soil that has a gravelly or dry bot- 
tom, and in other respects neither too rich, nor too strong, 
although vines will grow more luxuriantly, and produce larger 
fruit, in soils of a richer description, and for this reason, we are 
at much pains in preparing vine borders for such vines as are to 
be forced or grown in a vinery ; yet, for such as are to be cul- 
tivated on the open walls or espaliers, we are convinced, from 
experience, that rather poor, or at all events light soils, are 
preferable. The gi-eater part of the vineyards of France, 
says an intelligent horticulturist, are on a soil {argil-calca- 
rcous), sometimes 2^ri?nitwe, as those near Dijon : and some- 
times secoudari/, as those at Bourdcaux. Argillaceous gra- 
vel is the next in frequency, as near Nismes and Montpelier, 
and that which produces the Vin des Graves of Bourdeaux. 
The excellent wines of Anjou are made from vines grov/ing 
among schistous rocks. Wines, such as are made from vines 
planted in chalky soils, are weak, colorless, and do not keep 
so well as those of Champagne. Vines grown on the ashes 
discharged from volcanoes are excellent, as those of Vesuvius 
and Etna. Retentive clays are the worst soils for vines, the 
flowers are in a great part abortive ; the fruit, if it sets, does 
not ripen ; the shoots not ripening wtU are more easily afTccted 
by frosts; and the wine, if any can be made, is weak and 
worthless." 

We have many instances of vines growing out of old walls, 
among lime-rubbish, and in almost pure gravel, producing ex- 
cellent crops, and ripening their fruit, while others growing 
in rich soil, although much more luxuriant, and equally fruit- 
ful, do not ripen at all. This is, probably, carrying the merits 
of a poor soil to the extreme ; it proves however, to us, that 
tlie drier and lighter the soil is for vines on the open walls, 
the more likely are thoy to ripen their fruit, and this is the 
chief object to be aimed at. Therefore, in preparing any part 
of a border for vines, a light soil upon a perfectly dry bottom 
is necessary to their ultimate success. 

Figs will succeed in any tolerably light garden-mould, where 
tlie bottom is not wet. In preparing any part of a border for 



330 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



them, if the bottom be perfectly dry, or rendered so, any hght 
loamy garden-soil will be sufficient. The principal failure of 
figs in this country arises from not choosing a proper situation 
for them, as far as regards the aspect, the best in the garden 
should be allotted to them and vines. 

Fears. — A dry deep loam is the best soil for the pear-tree, 
when upon a stock of its own species, but on a quince stock, 
it requires a soil rather moister ; however the bottom of the 
border should be dry. A gravelly bottom is good, provided 
there be sufficient depth of mould over it. A clayey, wet, 
spongy bottom is the worst of all, and should be guarded 
against by draining, and the bottom of the border secured by 
a floor, similar to that recommended for peaches and nec- 
tarines, or else a floor formed of pavement, or other durable 
materials, to prevent the roots, which are apt in this tree to 
penetrate to a great depth, from getting into a bad sub-soil. 
The border should be made good to the depth of three or 
three and a half feet, and composed of good hazelly loam from 
an old pasture, previously prepared, as already described for 
peach-trees. If the loam be not rich of itself, it should be 
assisted by the addition of a portion of well rotted dung, such 
as has been used in cucumber or melon-beds, and mixed well 
with the loam in the compost-yard. The pear is, generally, a 
hardy tree, much more so than the apple, and will prosper in 
soils where apples will not live. Pears require a soil much 
stronger and deeper than any other of our cultivated fruit- 
trees. 

Apples. — In preparing borders for apples, if the soil be 
tolerably good, and the sub-soil perfectly diy, little else is re- 
quired, but if the sail be not naturally good, it must be im- 
proved by removing the bad, and substituting better mould. 
In soils extremely sandy, gravelly, or clayey, apple-trees will 
thrive but little, and in wet ones, they soon canker and die. 
One-third or one-fourth of virgin loam of middling texture, 
with a small addition of very rotten dung, will improve soils 
of a very bad nature sufficiently for the production of good 
apple-trees. 

Cherry. — The cherry delights in a dry, light, and rather 
sandy soil, but not gravelly, in which latter soil it soon pe- 



THE FRUIT GAKDLN. 



331 



rlslies. Any good garden-soil is fit for the cherry, and if tlis 
soil be not of itself good, it may be rendered sufficiently so by 
the addition of one-third or one-fourth of fresh light loam, 
such as has been already recommended for the apples. Some 
sorts, as the May-duke, will thrive in any ordinary garden- 
soil, and on almost any aspect with equal success. 

Pliuns. — Plums are found to flourish best in a soil neither 
too light nor yet too heavy and wet; in either extreme they 
seldom do well. Borders for plums, if not naturally good, 
may be rendered so by making the bottom perfectly dry, by 
draining, and making the borders to consist of one half light 
fresh loam, and one half garden-mould, vegetable mould, and 
road-scrapings mixed together, and prepared some time before 
using. In soils not congenial to them, they are apt to gum 
and canker, in which case they should be cut down and the 
mould entirely cleared away from their roots, and the fresh 
compost, already recommended, given them. 



CHAP. V. 



ON THE PROPKIl ARRANGEMENT AND ASPECTS FOR FRUIT- 
TREES UPON \Vx\LLS, AND THE DISTANCE AT WHICH 
THEY SHOULD BE PLANTED. 

In gardens where forcing-houses occupy the principal o¥ 
south aspect, it is seldom that much room is left for a great 
variety of the sorts of finer fruits, unless the garden be ex- 
tensive enough, and so arranged, by the disposal of the walls, 
to have more than one principal wall having a south aspect. 
In such cases, where there is a proper proportion of walls of 
all aspects, we would recommend dividing each into as many 
divisions as it is wished to have sorts of fruits cultivated, ar- 
ranging the divisions in proportion to the quantity of each sort 
of fruit and aspect. An arrangement of tnis sort we consider 



S32 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



of more importance tlian appears in general to have been 
attached to it. The principal reasons, in support of such 
arrangement is, the facility with which borders may be pre- 
pared for different species of fruits ; thus, fifty or a hundred 
yards of border for the more delicate trees, such as peaches, 
nectarines, &c., may be prepared entirely for them, whereas, 
if they be promiscuously planted among the other trees, 
the preparation of the border could not be so well accom- 
plished. The advantage of protecting them occasionally, of 
watering, &c. will be great, independently of the effect which 
it will produce when the trees are established, and each occu- 
pies its respective share of the wall, thereby giving a regu- 
larity and order to the whole. The merits of the sorts can 
be better ascertained by comparison, when growing conti- 
guously, than if grown at a distance from each other. 

A south or principal aspect should be occupied with vines, 
figs, peaches, nectarines, the finer sorts of pears, and a few 
cherries, plums, and apricots. The vines and figs must occupy 
such a portion of the wall, according to the circumstances of 
the situation, such as the probability of their ripening, &c. ; 
and the portion appropriated to figs must be regulated by the 
taste of the proprietor. Unless in very favorable situations, 
and where the proprietor esteems the fruit of the fig, the small- 
est proportion of the wall should be occupied by them. Or 
the vines may be planted at convenient distances, and trained 
to the top of the wall with a naked stem, and then ti'ained 
horizontally along under the coping. In this way they will 
not occupy much space, nor interfere, at least for some years, 
wilh the other trees. If trained in this manner, they may be 
planted at thirty or forty feet apart ; but if planted to fill up 
a regular space of wall, which for many reasons is to be pre- 
ferred, they may be planted at the distance of four to six 
feet apart, according to the height of the wall. For high 
walls, and weak growing vines, they may be planted at three 
feet apart ; but for strong gi'owing sorts, and walls of less than 
the ordinary height, they must be planted at a greater dis- 
tance from each other. The largest proportion should be 
planted with peaches and nectarines, at a distance of from 
twelve to fifteen feet apart, that i-?, the trees which are in- 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



333 



tended to remain permanently, and between them should be 
planted riders of the same sorts of fruits, in order the sooner 
to fill the wall. This is to be understood for walls of more 
than ten feet in height ; but for walls of a less height, it is not 
worth while, as gooseberries, currants, or raspberries, will 
answer better, and produce fruit sooner ; but, as the perma- 
nent trees, which should always be dwarfs, fill up, the riders 
or other substitutes should be cut away by degrees, to make 
room for them. The next division should consist of the finer 
sorts of ]>ears, which should be planted dwarfs, and at from 
twenty-four to thirty feet apart, according to the mode of 
training intended to be adopted, whether flm-formcd or hori- 
zontally ; the latter mode requires the greater distance, but 
the former being the most natural, and unquestionably the 
most elegant, is now generally adopted; between them may 
be planted riders of chemes, plums, or peaches and nectarines. 
As the finer sons of pears attain a considerable size and age, 
even under the best management, before they produce fruit, a 
considerable advantage will be gained by planting such trees 
as will fruit soon, and be in their turn cut out as the pears 
advance. The next division will be the choicest sorts of 
apples, and they should be planted at from eighteen to twenty 
feet apart, and the intermediate spaces also filled up with such 
trees as will produce fruit soonest, and be also cut out as the 
apples advance. Apricots should occupy a smaller proportion, 
as they will, in good situations, arrive at great maturity, having 
either an eastern or western aspect. One or two trees will, 
in a good situation, be sufficient for a south wall, and those 
merely to come in a few days sooner than those on the other 
aspects. Plums and cherries should also, in favorable situa- 
tions, occupy only a small proportion of south wall, as they 
will do equally well on other aspects ; a tree or two of each 
may be planted for the same purpose as the apricot, or they 
may be introduced in the spaces between the other permanent 
trees, to be cut out as will be found necessary. The Morella 
cherry is much improved by being planted on a south aspect ; 
one of them may be planted, and also a May-duke, as the 
latter, being an early fruit, will be a gi'eat acquisition to the 
dessert before the other fruits ripen. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Eastern aspects are considered by some as next in import- 
ance to the south, whilst others give the preference to the 
west. If both be equally sheltered, the preference, if any, 
should be given to the east, as enjoying the rays of heat sooner 
in the day ; but if not partially shaded, so as to allow the frost 
to be gradually removed in the spring months, before the rays 
of the sun strike upon the trees, the preference should then 
be given to the west. The sudden transition of heat darting 
on the trees by the morning sun, after the cold frosts of the 
preceding night, is the cause of so many failures of our earlier 
fruits in this uncertain climate. As both aspects are so nearly 
alike, they may be considered under the same head. 

The arrangements advised for the south aspect, as to form- 
ing the border into divisions for each species of fruit intended 
to be planted, should also be attended to in this instance. The 
proportions, however, must be different. Vines should be 
planted only in very favorable situations on eastern or western 
aspects ; but, provided that they have been accommodated 
with room on the south, it may be better not to plant any. 
Figs will thrive on either of these aspects under favorable cir- 
cumstances ; however, if they have been planted on a south 
wall, only a few trees of them need be planted on any other, 
and that merely for prolonging their season. 

Peaches, nectarines, and apricots, should occupy a con- 
siderable portion on both, as by a judicious arrangement of 
sorts their season will be considerably lengthened. Both early 
and late sorts should be planted on each ; if the latter sorts 
should in some seasons not sufficiently ripen, the loss will be 
trifling, as the advantage of them in October, in propitious 
seasons, will amply compensate for the loss of a crop in less 
favorable ones. Care however must be taken not to plant 
many late sorts on eastern or western aspects, particularly in 
cold situations, for if the wood should not ripen, the trees 
would be materially injured. But with a little precaution in 
covering them, in wet and backward autumns, with temporary 
frames and lights, they will be found, in most seasons, to 
ripen botli wood and fruit. 

The secondary sorts of fine pears and apples, as well as 
many of the finest, will ripen well on these aspects, and they 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



sliouUl occupy tlie largest proportion of wall, that is, bearing 
the same proportion as peaches and nectarines o-n the south. 

Cherries and plums should here occupy a space, particularly 
the finest plums, and both will come in intermediately between 
those of the south aspect and those on standards. 

A northern aspect is the least favorable for most fruits re- 
quiring the aid of walls to bring them to perfection ; however, 
for many sorts of cherries, plums, and some pears, it is ad- 
mirably suited, as well as for late crops of currants, goose- 
berries, and raspberries, to be protected by nets; the two 
former lasting till destroyed by the frost, and the raspberries 
as long as the nature of their fruit will admit of. IMorella 
cherries can, by being protected by nets, be preserved on a 
north wall till the end of November in favorable seasons, and, 
with the addition of red and white currants, will be extremely 
useful, both for culinary purposes and the dessert, when all 
other small fruits are out of season. - Upon a northern wall, 
the largest portion should be planted with cherries, particularly 
Morellas, and all vacant spaces should be filled with red and 
white currants, if a separate wall cannot be allotted for the 
latter by themselves, which they amply deserve. 

Many sorts of plums ripen well upon northern walls, par- 
ticularly in the southern counties, as well as some valuable 
pears, and many apples. The same arrangement should be 
attended to in keeping each species by themselves. 

In regard to the distance that wall trees should be planted, 
many circumstances are to be considered, such as the height of 
the walls, the kind of tree, and mode of training intended to 
be adopted. For walls, twelve feet high (the medium height) 
the late W. Nicol recommended for apples, eighteen or twenty 
feet ; apricots, twenty or twenty-four ; cherries, twelve or fif- 
teen ; figs, fifteen or eighteen ; pears, twenty-four or thirty ; 
peaches and nectarines, twelve or fifteen ; and plums, eighteen 
or twenty. For walls not exceeding five or six feet in height, 
he recommends for apples, thirty feet ; cherries, thirty or thirty- 
five ; plums, twenty or twenty-four ; and pears, thirty or thirty- 
five. 

Abercrombie, upon the same subject remarks, that upon walls 
of the above-mentioned heights, vines should be planted at 



336 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



from ten to fifteen feet apart ; peaches and nectarines from fif- 
teen to twenty ; figs, eighteen to twenty (or more, as the bear- 
ing branches are not to be shortened) ; apricots, fifteen feet for 
the early sorts, and eighteen to twenty-four for the latter, and 
fi'eely growing kinds ; cherries, from fifteen to twenty ; pears, 
from twenty to twenty-four ; apples, on dwarf stocks, fifteen feet, 
and if on free stocks, thirty feet ; plums, fifteen to thirty-five ; 
mulberries, fifteen to twenty. Upon walls, he adds, of only 
nine feet in height, the distance from each tree should be 
increased to one-fourth ; and upon those only six feet high, 
the distance should be increased one-half 

The above arrangement of the wall-fruit-trees refers to walls 
that are not hot icalls ; upon such, the arrangement may be 
somewhat different, and upon them many fruits may with pro- 
priety be planted, that would not succeed in ordinary situations, 
upon solid walls, that is, walls not heated by artificial means. 
The general prejudice against hot walls is, wt hcpe, now likely 
to be exploded, for if they be heated by hot water, as already 
noticed, they will give a temperature more equable, the want 
of which has hitherto been their greatest defect, one part of the 
wall being over-heated, vrhile another was scarcely heated at 
all. In gardens, where the principal walls, having a southern 
aspect, may be covered with glass, peaches and other of tlie 
finer fruits may be successfully cultivated upon eastern and 
western aspects, having the walls hollow and heated by hot 
water, both sides of the wall deriving an equal degree of 
heat, and that from the same consumption of fuel. 

In situations where, from unfavorable circumstances, the trees 
may be expected to be short-lived, they should be planted 
much nearer to each other ; as, in some situations, the trees 
would be worn out before they could be brought to cover so 
gi-eat a space as has been allotted to them in the foregoing re- 
mai'ks. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN, 



337 



MONTHLY OPERATIONS 

OF THE 

FRUIT GARDEN. 



JANUARY. 



PRUNING FRUIT-TREES. 

Tlie art of pruning chiefly consists in being acquainted with 
the nature of bearing in the difFerent sorts of trees, and in 
forming an early jutlgment of their habits and manner of pro- 
ducing tlicir slioots and branches, as well as other circum- 
stances, for which some rules may be given; but there are 
particular instances, of which it is impossible to decide but 
on the spot, and which depend chiefly on practice and ob- 
servation. No rules can be laid down that are equally appli- 
cable to all trees or all situations. The objects of pruning are 
various, such as promoting growth and bulk ; the renewal of 
decayed plants and trees ; modifying the form ; enlarging the 
fruit ; promoting the formation of fruit-buds ; lessening the 
bulk of the trees ; adjusting the branches to the roots ; and 
the remov.d or cure of diseases, &c. 



PRUNING STANDARD FRUIT-TREES. 

Standard fruit-trees are seldom much pruned after they have 
attained a bearing state, except to regulate any irregularity in 
their branches, although no doubt can exist, that they would, 
in most cases, be much benefited by a more regular use of the 
knife. Upon this subject. Knight justly recommends, that the 
points of the extreme branches should be every where kept 
thin and pervious to the light, so that the internal parts of 
the tree may not be entirely shaded by the external. The 
light should penetrate freely into every pait of the tree, and if 

n X 



338 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



this be judiciously attended to, every part of it will be equally 
productive of fruit, and the trees thus treated will not only 
produce a greater quantity of fruit, but the fruit itself will be 
much better in quality, having the full benefit of the sun, 
which in crowded trees is not the case. The trees will also be 
able to bear a gi'eatcr load, without running the risk of break- 
ing down. 

Thinning the branches of old trees, and keeping them sup- 
plied with fruitful wood, encouraging young shoots to take the 
place of those that are getting into decay, and keeping them 
moderately thin, are points which ought to be sti'ictly attended 
to. All formality, however, in their heads should be disre- 
garded, as being both injurious and incongruous. No tree 
looks so well as one which spreads out its branches as nature 
directs ; and all look ill which are clipped and shorn into coni- 
cal shapes, such as balloons, cones, pyramids, &c. It is long 
since that these fantastical forms have been justly expelled from 
our ornamental trees, and it is with regret that we hear them 
recommended for our fruit-trees. The nearer our modes of 
training approach to nature, the more likely are we to have 
healthy and fruitful trees. 



PRUNING AND TRAINING APPLES AND PEARS ON WALLS AND 

ESPALIERS. 

These two trees being similar in their manner of bearing, 
that is, that both of them produce their fruit on spurs, which 
issue chiefly from the sides, though sometimes, from the ends 
of their branches, one mode of training and pruning will 
answer for both. When the espalier or wall on which they 
are planted is not more than six feet in height, then hori- 
zontal training is best ; but when the walls are of gi'eater height, 
then the fan method is preferable, and is the only mode of 
training pointed out to us by nature. Indeed, these two me- 
thods of ti-aining all fi-uit-trees, excepting the vine, (and that 
also, in some cases, may be very properly trained in the same 
manner,) seems from experience to convince us of the inutility 
of any other mode. The different modes of training recom- 
mended of late years produce extremely unhandsome trees, 



Jan.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



339 



and we have not been able to discover any great advantage 
j^^aincd, cither in the quantity or quahty of the fruit, nor in the 
heaUh of the trees. For low walls we give the preference to 
the first of these methods, and always for espaliers ; and on a 




high wall, no mode, we think, looks so elegant as that of a 
tree fan-trained. Apples and pears may be eitner trained fan- 
like, or horizontally, according to circumstances and taste. By 
training in the fan-manner a branch may, at any time, be sup- 
plied more readily than in the other, for which reason, it is 
preferable for Morella cherries, peaches, nectarines, plums, and 
apricots. The distance at which the principal branches should 
be laid in, is from nine to twelve inches, according to the 
nature and strength of the tree; some sorts growing more 
grossly than others, both in wood and leaves. Trees that 
have arrived at a full bearing state, and have filled the spaces 
allotted to them, require nothing else, in respect to pruning, 
than to regulate their spurs, if much clustered, and to prune 
away the superfluous breast-wood made in summer. The 
usual practice, however, till of late years, has been to 
leave these spurs standing out from the walls for a great dis- 
tance, and so thick that the tree in the end becomes like a 
hedge more than a cultivated fruit-tree. The spurs thus stand- 
ing out so far from the wall, benefit very little from the rays 
of heat reflected from the wall, and are as much exposed to 
die effect of frosts, and cutting winds, as if they were actually 
growing on standards, independently of which, the fruit pro- 
duced is of a very inferior quality. At this season, examine 
all the apple and pear-trees, both on espaliers and walls, and 



310 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



thin out and regulate all their spurs. Wherever large ruggetl 
projecting spurs occur, cut them clean out, close into the branch; 
and at the same time, be careful to preserve a sufficient number 
of the healthy fruit-spurs emitted from the branches. Cut out 
all decaying, cankery, and dead wood, or barren stumps, which 
will not only give the trees a neater appearance, but will also 
much improve their health, by allowing a free circulation of 
air and sunshine to every part of the tree, and by displacing 
all useless ill-placed spurs, disencumber the tree of a great 
load of entirely useless leaves and small spray, which it would 
otherwise have to support, and which, to a serious degree, 
would rob the fruit of a great share of its nourishment. Apples 
often show fruit-buds at the bottom of the breast-shoots short- 
ened in summer, in which case, if the tree be thin of fruit- 
spurs, they are to be retained, the better to ensure a crop. 
Some sorts of pears show buds of this description, particularly 
in good seasons ; under similar circumstances, they ought to 
be allowed to remain ; but if there be plenty of fruit- spurs 
without them, they should be cut out, to prevent an unneces- 
sary quantity of useless breast-wood being produced the en- 
suing summer. Trees that have not filled their respective 
places, and are consequently under a mode of training for 
forming their several ramifications, must, where the wall re- 
quires to be covered, have their nearest or last-formed branches 
shortened, in order to cause them to push out others to fill the 
wall. This shortening must be in proportion to the strength 
of the shoots ; strong ones may be shortened one-third of 
their length, weak ones one-half, or two-thirds, and very weak 
ones may be shortened into two or three buds. This will 
cause them to break strongly, and to produce proper shoots 
with which to form the tree. 

In training horizontally, the side branches, unless in cases 
of accident arising from bruises or other causes, should never 
be shortened until the tree has filled the space allotted to it. 
The upright, or leading shoot which forms the trunk, or main 
stem of the tree, should at this time, or in March, be short- 
ened, in order to cause it to push out lateral branches. This 
shoot must be shortened also, according to its strength ; if it 
be weak, it will only be able to push out two lateral branches, 



Jan.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



311 



consequently it should be shortened to about nine or ten 
inches ; if it be, however, strong, it will in all probabihty 
push out four laterals, two on each side; in that case, cut it 
to double the length of the last. This mode of training is 
consequently longer in filling the wall than that of the fan- 
manner. In cases, where the soil is very good, and the trees 
in a very vigorous habit, they will probably, in some cases, 
push more than four lateral shoots in one year ; if this be 
apprehended from their appearance, lay the leader in at a 
greater length, and allow a greater number of laterals to be 
laid in on each side. 

It appears to have been the object of cultivators, in devising 
a number of forms of training, to attain some degree of con- 
trol over tlie circulation of the sap, for the purpose of inducing 
a gi-eater dcgiee of productiveness ; but how far they have 
attained the end in view, does not clearly appear ; it is, 
nevertheless, evident, that in proportion as tli-ey have diverged 
from the above forms, they have produced deformed and ugly 
trees. To train fruit-bearing trees, the principal use of which 
is the production of fine fruit, into unnatural and uncouth 
forms, merely for fancy's sake, appears as preposterous as it 
is useless. 

To enter into a detail of all the forms recommended 
would be useless, and far exceed our limits. We give the 
following, as specimens of the sub-varieties of the two lead- 
ing modes, which may be considered the fan and the hori- 
zontal. No. 1, the irregular fan; No. 2, the stellate fan; 




No,\ No. 2, 



S4:2 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan, 



No. 3, the di'ooping fan ; No. 4, the wavy fan ; Nb. 5, the 
horizontal, with screw stem ; No. 6, the horizontal, with double 
stem. 




Xo. 5. No. 6. 



The first five modes of training here represented, are appli- 
cable to cherries, plums, and some other fruits, with slight mo- 
difications, as well as to apples and pears : and trees trained in 
either of these ways, other circumstances being favorable, pro- 
duce abundant crops of fruit, and, by adopting a system of 
judicious pruning, may be long kept in a healthy and bearing 
state. 

In training the apple and pear, some have recommended the 
vertical mode of training, and this method very often occurs in 
the gardens of Scotland. Of this method there are two va- 



Jan.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



343 



rieties, the vertical, with screw or wavy shoots, No. 1 ; and 
the vertical, with double stem, or upright shoots. No. 2, 



These two last modes of training are sometimes adopted with 
pears and apples, and commences the same season that the 
trees are planted, by leading one shoot horizontally from each 
side of the stem, within a foot or fifteen inches of the ground- 
surface, and the shoots which proceed from them are trained 
upright till they reach the top of the wall, and are sometimes 
trained straight, as in No. 2, and often in a serpentine form, as 
in No. 1. These are favorite forms of training with Dutch 
and Flemish gardeners, and appear to have been long prac- 
tised by them. They are, with us, for the most part applied 
to the training of currants upon walls, and not unfrequently to 
vines grown in the open air. Whatever merits they may be 
supposed to have, in regard to producing fruitfulness in the 
trees, we confess that they, together with No. 6, appear to be 
less elegant, as they are the farthest removed from the natural 
habit of the trees. 

Mr. Knight, amongst others, has recommended, with all 
that zeal and abihty for which that horticulturist is so emi- 
nently distinguished, a mode of training, which he denominates 
the open fan form, and which he proposes should commence 
while the trees are in the nursery, and he considers its appli- 
cation as referring to almost all fruit-trees. This open fan 
mode of the President's does not materially differ from that 
described by that eminent French horticulturist, the late Pro- 




No. 1 . 



A'o. 2. 



CA4' THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

fessor Tliouin. During the first and second years of train- 
ing, it differs little from many other modes which have been 
long in practice, F/gs. 1 and 2 ; but the third year it becomes 
characteristic, by reversing the lateral shoots, Fig, 3. 




In pruning at this season, as well as at all others, it is of 
importance to keep a strict eye on the lower parts of the trees, 
whether they be young trees training, or old and fully esta- 
blished ones, in order to see if there be any existing vacancy, 
or any probability of such soon happening. In which cases, 
if any good shoot be situated contiguously, it should be trained 
in either at full length, or shortened to a few eyes to force out 
as many shoots as may seem necessary ; for due precaution 
should ever be observed in taking care to have a sufficient 
stock of young wood coming forward to fill up any vacancy 
that may occur, and for substituting a new set of branches for 
such as arc either decayed or stand in need of retrenchment. 
As the operation of pruning goes on, it is necessary to have 
the branches again, as soon as possible, re-nailed or tied to 
the wall or espalier, taking particular care to train them in 
with great regularity. If horizontally, lay them in parallel to 
each other, at equal distances throughout ; and if fan-trained. 



Jan.] THE FRUTT GARDEN ^ S4o 

lay tliotn in straight, allowing them greater space as they ex- 
tend to the extremity of the trees, laying in the principal 
branches first, and the smaller ones regularly between them, 
avoiding crossing any of them, and observing to make the 
opposite branches on each side range equally in the same man- 
ner and position. 

rUUNING PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 

If the weather be mild, and the wood of these trees has 
})een well ripened during the previous autumn, they xnay now 
be pruned ; but in most cases, we would recommend February 
and early in ^Tarch, when all danger of frost is past. This 
is of the greatest consequence in cold wet soils, and conse- 
quently in late situations. At all events, whether the pruning 
be now carried into eflect at this time, or not, if the trees have 
not been disengaged from the walls in December, they should 
now be done, that is, by unnailing them, and securing the 
larger branches only to the wall, to prevent accidents from snow 
or strong winds ; or a few stout poles may be placed between 
the trees and the walls, to which some laths or cords may be 
attached, for the purpose of having some of the leading shoots 
of the trees affixed to them. This will prevent their being- 
broken by accidents, and admit of more readily getting at the 
branches, when the pruning goes on ; besides, if kept in this 
position till the end of February, or later, it will greatly retard 
the buds from swelling, and consequently give them a chance 
of escaping the severe frosts in spring during the time they are 
in blossom. 

As to the mode of training, wc perfectly agree with Nicol, 
that they should be trained in the fan manner, and no other. 
It is not practicable to train them to any considerable extent 
liorizontally, as they produce their fruit on the Avood of last 
year; and because these often require to be shortened, and 
the older branches cut entirely away, in order to obtain a sup- 
ply of young bearing wood. These trees may be said to be 
always in training, as there must be a constant cutting out of 
the old and encouraging of the young wood in every part of 
the tree, even after it has filled the full place allotted to it. 
The distance tluit the old or leading branches may be placed 

2 Y 



j4<J the practical gardener. {Jan, 

from each other is not important; they may be sometimes 
pretty close and at others more distant, but this must be re- 
gulated by the quantity and position of the young wood that 
may be upon them. These, in healthy and well-regulated 
trees, should be laid in at the distance of from six to nine 
inches apart from each other. It is the regular management 
of the young shoots, more than of the old ones, that produce 
health and beauty in a peach or nectarine-tree, and by having 
a regular supply of young wood in all parts of the tree, a 
regular crop of fruit will follow. To produce this regular sup- 
ply of young wood, it is necessary to have recourse to shorten- 
ing the branches of the preceding year, more or less, accordmg 
to their size, the state of the tree, and other circumstances. 
All those which are hurt by frost, and not sufficiently ripened 
to their extremities, or bruised by accident, cankered or mil- 
dewed, should be shortened ; and also all those from which it 
is wished to procure a supply of other shoots, either to fill a 
vacancy, or for the extension of the tree. The lengths to 
which they should be shortened, depend also on a variety ol 
circumstances, such as their strength or debility ; the more 
strong and luxuriant may be shortened to one-third of their 
length, and sometimes, when very strong, and the border in 
good state, to be shortened only a little. In all cases, where 
shortening is necessary, care must be taken to cut them at a 
wood-bud, and not at a flower-bud, which may be distin- 
guished in late pruning more readily than in early or autumn 
pruning, by the flower-buds being always bold, round, short, 
and turgid, while the others are rather long and flattish, and 
generally terminating in a sharp point. It very frequently 
happens that a wood-bud is placed between two flower-buds, 
particularly on strong growing healthy trees ; and where this 
is the case, shortening may be safely performed at such buds, 
observing to cut at a little distance above them, for fear of 
injuring either of the buds, but particularly the wood-bud. 

The principle of shortening these trees is to keep a supply 
of such shoots as are to produce future crops, and fill the 
space allotted to each tree. While trees are young, this short- 
ening of their extreme shoots is of the utmost consequence, 
particularly towards the bottom and middle of the tree ; for if 



Jan.] 



THE TRUIT GARDEN. 



347 



they Averc laid in at full length, the bottom and heart of the 
tree would thereby become thin, and indeed naked of such 
shoots ; and the nature of most stone-fruits is such, that am- 
putations of large branches are dangerous, producing gum, 
canker, and finally death. But this is more particularly the 
case with peaches and nectai-ines ; therefore a supply of young 
wood should be encouraged, and is easily obtained at the bot- 
tom and in the middle of the trees, by attending to shorten 
the greater part of the shoots, and retaining the young ones 
thus produced, in such proportion as may be deemed neces- 
sary for keeping up the supply. At the more extreme parts 
of the trees, this shortening is less important, particularly in 
old trees, or such as have filled their allotted space of the 
wall ; but where such have been injured by frost, milde-vv, or 
other accidents, they should be always cut back, until the 
wood appears quite sound and perfect. Where this is not the 
case, it will be readily seen by the color of the wood, which 
will appear brown, or cankered to the pith. Sometimes this 
appearance will run back to where the branch issues from the 
leader ; in such case, remove it entirely, as there is little chance 
of a healthy supply of shoots being produced from such a 
diseased branch ; but in cases where the entire removal oi 
such a branch will deform the tree, and no branch can be 
brought in to succeed, without crossing some of the larger 
branches, then, one or two wood-buds may be lefl at the base 
of the shoot ; if they break strong, and the tree be otherwise 
in good health, there will be a chance of providing a shoot or 
two, that, with proper care, may fill up the space required. 
In trees of gross habits, that is, such as are growing too luxu- 
riantly, the knife should be used with care, as the more they 
are cut, the more will they be encouraged to grow. In such 
cases, shorten only the tips of the branches, and lay in as 
much wood as can conveniently be done ; this will soon cor- 
rect the gross habit of growth, and throw them into a fruit- 
bearing state. 

All trees naturally grow strongest at their extremities, whe- 
ther they be young or old ; it therefore follows, that we should 
exercise the knife less freely there, and more freely in the 
lower and middle parts, in order to counteract this propen-siiy. 



S48 



THE PRACTICAL GARDE^JER. 



[Jan. 



and to obtain a regular supply of bem-ing wood. Wliere a 
tree abounds with middling-sized well-ripened shoots, having 
a bold wood-bud at their point, as it often happens on such, 
that there will be a wood-bud at the point, and only one or 
two at the base of the shoot, the intermediate ones being all 
flower-buds, then, in this case, they should be laid in at full 
length. To cut in the middle of such shoots would be useless, 
as no bud would push, except that at the bottom ; and although 
the fruit-buds might blossom, and even set their fmit, they 
will ultimately all M\ off for want of a leading shoot to draw 
nourishment for their support. In this pruning, clear the tree 
of all redundant, irregular, and improper shoots, remove or 
reduce some part of the former bearers of the preceding years, 
cutting the most naked quite away, and others down to the 
most eligible younger branch, or well-placed shoot ; but this 
should be done carefully, not to cut too much out at once, 
but to cut a portion annually. Also all dead or diseased shoots 
should be cleared away. Peaches will sometimes produce fruit 
upon spurs ; and in cold late situations, Mr. Knight has re- 
commended the adoption of them to a certain latitude. " In- 
stead," he says, " of taking off so large a portion of young 
shoots, and training in a few only to a considerable length, as 
is usually done, and as I should myself do, to a great extent, 
in the vicinity of London, and in every favorable situation, I 
preserve a large number of the young shoots, which are emitted 
in a proper direction in early spring by the yearling wood, 
shortening each, where necessary, by pinching off the minute 
succulent points, generally to the length of one or two inches. 
Spurs, which lie close to the wall, are thus made, upon which 
numerous blossom-buds form very early in the ensuing sum- 
mer, and upon which, after the last most unfavorable season, 
and in a situation so high and cold that the peach-trees, in 
the most favorable seasons, had usually produced only a few 
feeble blossoms, I observed as strong and vigorous blossoms 
in the present spring, as I have usually seen in the best sea- 
sons and situations ; and I am quite confident, tliat if the peach- 
trees in the gardens round the metropolis, had been pruned 
in the manner above described in the last season, an abundant 
and vigorous blossom would have appeared in the present 



Jan.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



349 



spring. I do not, however, mean to recommend to the gar- 
dener to trust wholly, in any situation, for his crop of fruit to 
the spurs produced by the above mode of pruning and training 
the peach-tree. In every warm and favorable situation, I 
would advise him to train the larger part of his young wood 
according to the ordinary method : and in cold and late situa- 
tions only, to adopt, to a great extent, the mode of manage- 
ment above suggested. A mixture of both modes, in every 
situation, will be generally found to multiply the chances of 
success, and therefore neither ought to be exclusively adopted 
or wholly rejected in any situation. The spurs must not be 
shortened in winter or spring, till it can be ascertained what 
parts of them are provided with leaf-buds." 

In situations where the earliest sorts of peaches and necta- 
nnes will not ripen, without adopting this or any other method 
of pruning to produce spurs, we would recommend only a 
small portion of wall to be taken up with them, as the finer 
sorts of pears and other fruits that will ripen, will repay the 
owner much better than striving to produce fruits in a situation 
decidedly unfavorable to them. However, we can see no great 
nnpropriety in adopting the mixt method here recommended 
by this intelligent horticulturist to a certain extent in cold 
situations, but we think it entirely useless in the neighbour- 
hood of London, or other equally favorable situations, and 
we are convinced that the fruit produced by such a mode of 
pruning will be much inferior to that which is produced on the 
young wood entirely. 

Where peach or nectarine-trees have by bad management, 
or other causes, become naked at the bottom of the wall, or 
the middle of the tree, and are otherwise in a decaying state, 
they may be headed down, and the soil renewed ; but if in a 
very bad state, we would recommend the renewal of the bor- 
ders, and the planting of young trees, as the most certain mode 
of procuring both line fruit and healthy trees. 

NAILING AND ANOINTING THE BRANCHES OF PEACH-TREES. 

At whatever season the operation of pruning is performed, 
whether in autumn, mid-winter, or spring, as soon as the trees 



350 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



are pruned, they should be carefully replaced on the wall, if 
it be not intended to retard the buds, by keeping them detached 
as long as is deemed necessary from the wall. In nailing 
them, observe to leave sufficient room in the shreds ; it is a 
good rule to go by, to allow as much room as would admit an- 
other shoot of equal size along with that laid in, to allow 
plenty of room for the swelling of the shoots. In young luxu- 
riant trees, this is of the utmost importance, for when this pre- 
caution is not attended to, the shoot swells so fast, and not 
having sufficient room in the shred, is compressed, on all sides, 
and often almost cut through. This produces a wound, which, 
in most cases, ends in the death of the shoot. In driving the 
nails, care also should be taken to lay their heads in a position 
sloping from the shoot, or branch, in order that they may not 
grow over them, and nails with the smallest heads should 
always be used, and no more used than are absolutely neces- 
sary to keep each branch in its proper place. Old nails should 
never be used until they have been re-pointed ; and if there 
be any apprehension of insects being either on the trees or 
in the wall, the nails should be cleaned before using, which 
may be readily done by boiling them in water alone, or in a 
mixture of soap, sulphur, and tobacco. The shreds once 
used should never be used again, as they are apt to contain 
the insects, or their eggs ; and as the expense is trifling, it 
is better to guard against such enemies, than to combat them 
in any other way. In making the shreds, they should not be 
any broader nor longer than is necessary for the sort of tree 
intended to be nailed, and each size kept separate in the 
making, which will be found more convenient when they are 
to be used. Strong shoots of trees may be securely fastened 
to the wall with small pieces of tarred cord, instead of shreds, 
jt is more strong and durable, and is not liable to harbour in- 
sects, the portion of tar upon it keeping them off. 

The trees should, previously to nailing, be washed or 
anointed, both for the destruction and prevention of insects. 
This is an important business and should not be neglected, 
and as no time in the year is so well calculated for the opera- 
tion as winter, when the leaves arc off, and the trees disen- 
gaged from the wall for the convenience of pruning, this ope^ 



Ja}l.\ THE FRUIT GARDEN. 351 

ration can also be more conveniently and effectually executed. 
Many preparations and compositions have been recommended 
for this purpose. Independently of every gardener having hia 
own approved wash or preparation, which he finds, from expe- 
rience, answers his several purposes, either for the removal or 
prevention of his insect enemies, many quack recipes have 
been imposed on the public, and, we need not say, without 
exhibiting one of the many excellent virtues which they are 
pretended to possess. Sulphur and tobacco seem to be the 
two substances that the majority of gardeners use and recom- 
mend, with the addition of soap, probably more for its adhe- 
sive property, in making the others remain longer on the trees 
than they otherwise w^ould ; it is also of use as a cleanser and 
soflener of the wood. 



PRUNING APRICOTS. 

Apricots bear their fruit both on the young shoots of last 
year, and also on spurs arising on the two or three year old 
branches. The IMoor Park apricot bears chiefly on the last 
year's shoots, and on close spurs formed on the two-year old 
wood. In pruning, therefore, attention must be paid to pro- 
vide as much of such wood or spurs as is necessary. The 
operation may be performed from the fall of the leaf till the 
beginning of March, in mild weather. When it is deferred 
till the buds begin to swell, the blossom-buds can be better 
distinguished, as has been observed for peaches and nec- 
tarines. In performing the operation of pruning, cut out some 
of the most naked parts of the two last years' bearers, and all 
naked old branches, not furnished with a supply of young wood, 
or promising healthy spurs, either to their origin or to some 
well-directed lateral, as most expedient, to make room for 
training in a supply of young and fruitful wood. Cut clear 
away all dead, or decaying old wood, or spurs, and observe to 
leave a leading shoot at the end of each branch, either a natu- 
rally placed terminal or one formed by cutting. Where a 
vacuity is to be furnished into a proper leader, let the shoots 
retained for bearers be moderately shortened. Reduce strong 
shoots in the least proportion, cutting off one-fourth or less of 



353 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [JoTt, 

their length ; shorten the weak shoots by taking away one- 
third, and sometimes one-half, and cut such as are very weak 
to one or two buds. This shortening will conduce to the pro- 
duction of a supply of lateral shoots the ensuing summer, from 
the lower and middle placed eyes, whereas, without it, the new 
shoots would proceed mostly from the top, and leave the under 
part of the wall and middle of the tree naked. Never prune 
below all the blossom-buds, except to produce wood, in which 
case, cut nearer to the origin of the branch, as noticed above. 
As on these trees small fruit-spurs, an inch or two long, often 
appear on the two and three-year old wood, these spurs should 
generally be retained for bearing ; but when any of them pro- 
ject foreriglit too far from the wall, cut them clear off; for 
spurs projecting above two or three inches from the wall, 
although they may blossom, and even set their fruit, they sel- 
dom ripen them, and vvlien they do, the fruit is never good 
in quality, unless the situation and season be both very favor- 
able. The thick clusters of spurs, which form on old trees, 
ought also to be either thinned, or if not particularly wanted, 
cut entirely away. As each tree is pruned, wash them, as 
directed for peaches and nectarines, and let them be imme- 
diately nailed in closely and regularly to the wall, observing 
the same caution, as to driving the nails in a sloping direction, 
and having the shreds of a proper size, according to the size 
of the branches. Apricots are generally and very justly trained 
in the fan manner. 



PRUNING AND TRAINING CHERRIES AND PLUMS. 

Both cherries and plums produce their fruit on spurs, and 
on the young wood of the preceding year, and therefore, to 
prevent repetition, may be considered under the same head. 
Fan-training is also to be preferred to any other, for reasons 
already given ; the horizontal mode, however, may be with 
more propriety adopted with cherries and plums, than with 
either peaches, nectarines, or apricots. Morella cherries we 
should always prefer fan-trained to any other method, as they 
produce their fruit chiefly upon young shoots of the last year, 
or on close spurs formed on the two-year old wood, and should 



Jan.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



S53 



be trained much in the manner of peaches. Considering, 
therefore, that they are to be trained in this method, let the 
branches be arranged at the distance of eight or nine inches 
apart, according to their strength and size of the fohage. Old 
trees are apt to form their spurs into clusters, which ought to 
be neatly thinned out, chiefly cutting away the parts farthest 
from the wall, and retaining those placed nearest to it, that 
the fruit produced upon them may be benefited by its influ- 
ence. If the trees be in a healthy state, and if there be an 
appearance of plenty of fruit-buds on the young wood, that is, 
the shoots and branches of the preceding year, the largest of 
the spurs may be cleared away, or very much thinned, as the 
fruit produced from such young shoots as can be laid in close 
to the wall, will be much superior to that produced on spurs, 
both in size and flavor. 

Clear tlie trees of all sickly, diseased or dead shoots, dead 
spurs, or any lateral spray that may have grown since the 
summer pruning, observing to cut clean into the old wood 
with a sharp instrument, and not to leave a ragged wound, 
which would admit moisture, and soon produce decay, as well 
as gum and canker, to which all stone-fruits are liable, fi'om 
M'ounds arising from bruises or careless pruning. If it be 
necessary to use the saw in removing large branches, smooth 
the surface of the cut with a sharp knife, and paint over the 
wound with any sort of paint most convenient, in order to 
exclude the air and wet until the young bark heals over it. 
In established trees of these sorts, no shortening should ever 
be done, unless in such cases, where a vacancy has arisen in 
the tree from the loss of a branch by accident, or otherwise ; 
in such case, shorten either the next, or the two next, in order 
to produce shoots to fill the vacant space. The leading shoots 
of such trees as have not yet filled their respective places on 
the wall, should be shortened, and treated nearly in the same 
manner as has been directed for apples and pears. Small shoots 
that abound with fruit-spurs, and are perfectly ripened to their 
extremities, may be laid in, if wanted as temporary shoots, 
that is, until they have ripened off' their fruit, and then cut 
out altogether ; but if wanted to fill up a vacant space, shorten 
them into a good wood-bud, or lay them in at full length. 

2 z 



354 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [JaJT, 



PLANTING AND PRUNING RASPBERRIES. 

Where fresh plantations of raspberries are intended to be 
made, this is now a proper season for that purpose. The 
ground should be either deeply dug or trenched, and if not in 
good condition, should be moderately enriched by the addi- 
tion of manure. The pruning of these plants may now also 
be proceeded with, removing all old wood, and all the branches 
of the last season's gi'owth which are weak or not well formed, 
as well as all good wood which is superfluous, leaving only 
from three to five of the strongest and best shoots, which will 
be sufficient for producing the ensuing crop. 

PLANTING AND PRUNING GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS. 

New plantations of these fruits may now be made, and the 
operation of pruning them expedited, as they are sufficiently 
hardy not to be injured by the severest frosts. All worn out 
or decaying branches should be removed, as well as all the 
young spray of the preceding year's gi'owth, unless in those 
cases, where a branch or two may be wanted to supply the 
place of those decayed or worn out. Choose some of the best 
formed shoots for this purpose, and such as are most con- 
tiguous to the space intended to be filled. The last young 
shoot, at the point of each leading shoot, should be retained 
and left unshortened, to act as a conductor of the sap to the 
extremities of the plant. The bushes should be kept reason- 
ably thin of wood, particularly towards the middle, to admit 
of a firee circulation of both sun and air to the fruit. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



FEBRUARY. 



PLANTING FRUIT-TREES. 

Fruit-trees of all sorts may be planted any time this month 
when the weather is open. Let every sort be planted at a pro- 
per distance, that the trees may have, for some years, plenty of 
room to grow, without interfering with each other. For the) 
respective distances, see the Introduction to the Fruit- 
Garden. 

The distances at which they should be planted may, at the 
first sight, appear considerable, but under favorable circum- 
stances, they will soon fill the spaces allotted to them. Trees 
planted on low walls require to be planted at a greater distance 
than on higher ones, in order that they may have gi'eater 
scope to be trained horizontally, where they cannot be trained 
in the fan manner. 

In planting all kinds of fruit-trees, it is of the greatest con- 
sequence to them not to be planted too deep. Open for each 
tree a circular hole or pit, wide enough to receive the roots 
when fully spread out, so that none of them will rest upon the 
sides of the pit. Then prepare the roots by pruning away all 
injured or broken ones, and shortening the long naked roots, 
that are not furnished with fibres. The good roots even, if 
too many, should be thinned out, for as the branches are to 
undergo a similar operation, by thinning out weak, useless, 
or decayed shoots, and shortening the strong and luxuriant 
ones, according to their strength, in order to cause them to 
push out shoots, where required, for forming the head of the 
tree ; the roots, likewise, should be pruned in proportion to 
the branches, and the branches in proportion to the roots. In 
thinning the roots, be careful not to cut away but as few 
possible of the smaller ones or fibres, as they are the principal 
organs which procure and convey nourishment to the trees. 
This done, spread out the roots and fibres, carefully bedding 
them in the compost prepared for that purpose, already noticed. 
If it be considered necessary, from the nature of the soil, to 



356 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



plant entirely in the above compost, let that be done ; if the soil 
be good; use only a little merely to cover the roots, tluen 
fill in the common earth, gently pressing it rouna the roots, 
first with the hand, and, after a great portion has been put in, 
afterwards with the foot ; but this should be done carefully, so 
as not to injure the roots by bruising them, nor tearing them 
from the stem of the tree. While the mould is putting in, 
gently pull up the tree, and shake it carefully about, if the 
mould be dry and friable, so that the finer particles may get 
into the clefts among the roots, leaving no spaces unoccupied 
with mould about the roots. Before placing the trees in the 
pits, have, either in a large tub, or by pouring water on the 
ground and stirring it up to form a thick consistency, a pud- 
dle, in which to emerge the roots two or three times, or as 
often as may be deemed necessaiy, until a sufficient quantity 
of the puddle attaches itself to the roots. For the roots of all 
trees, excepting peaches and nectarines, this puddle may be 
made with the liquid drainings of the dunghill, diluted with 
water ; or in want of that, add a portion of good dung to the 
mould, of which it is made. When the trees are planted, let 
them, if wall trees, be headed down according to whatever 
mode of training it is intended to adopt, and then neatly nailed 
to the wall. If standards or dwarfs, prune them accordingly, 
and let them be staked in a neat and careful manner, to prevent 
the wind from blowing them about ; observing to place a pad 
of hay, or old mat, between the tree and the stake, where 
they come in contact, to prevent the bark fi-om being taken off 
by the friction. When the operation of planting and support- 
ing is completed, give each a gentle watering, according to the 
state of the mould in which they are planted, letting them be 
planted rather wet than otherwise, and cover over the surface, 
as far as the roots may extend, with littery dung or fresh turf, 
turning the green side undermost ; this is to remain until it be 
entirely rotted, and then may be carefully pointed in, but not 
so deep as to injure the roots. The intention of this covering 
is not so much for a manure, as a means of preventing the 
drought from affecting the roots, and to keep the mould damp 
round their roots as long as possible, or until they have taken 
fresh root. 



Feb.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN, 



557 



PLANTING ORCHARD-TREES. 

If the orchard has been trenched, or prepared as has been 
ah'eady advised under that head, and if the soil be dry, and 
the weather open, the several fruit-trees may now be planted. 
Having brought them to the spot, proceed to trim their roots 
and branches, as directed in the last article, and plant them 
in the manner there laid down, giving each tree a portion, 
more or less, according to the soil, or other circumstances, of 
the prepared compost directed to be prepared for them, and on 
no account fail to puddle the roots of them well. After plant- 
ing, let them be properly staked and supported, and the ground 
mulched or covered round their stems, as above directed. If 
the orchard be not sufficiently fenced to exclude hares, each 
tree should be protected from them by being well bushed round 
with thorns, or otherwise secured. The trees being planted, 
the ground between them may be put in order, by manuring, 
if necessary, and digging, to be ready to receive such crops ot 
seeds or roots, as may be deemed most useful to the owner. 
It is a mistaken notion that ground planted with fruit-trees 
should be kept entirely for them, at least for the first years of 
their growth. The operations of hoeing and cultivating it, will 
much improve the trees in their young state, and the crops 
obtained by the public fruit-grower will help to pay his rent 
and the expense of cultivation. In private orchards or fruit- 
gardens, it will be a useful appendage to the culinary-garden, 
and by cultivating it, the gardener will be enabled to give rest 
to a part of his ground, which has been under culinary crops 
for years. Alter the fruit-trees are established, it may be sown 
down in grass, both for neatness and profit. When the trees 
are once in a bearing state, they will, under favorable circum- 
stances, pay for the groimd, and at such a time, cropping under- 
neath them should be abandoned. 



DRESSING FRUIT-TREE BORDERS. 

Let all the fruit-tree borders be neatly dug over, as soon as 
the pruning and nailing of the trees are finished, which should 
now be forwarded with all expedition. In digging fruit-tree 



S58 



0 

THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



{Feb. 



borders, care must be taken not to dig too deep, for fear of 
injuring the roots of the trees ; and in doing this, prefer to 
use a three or four-prong'd fork to tm*n the ground with in- 
stead of a spade. If the borders have been ridged up in 
autumn, level down the ridges, and dig the whole over again 
in a neat manner. The borders will then be in readiness to 
crop, as circumstances may require, and the whole will have a 
neat and orderly appearance. It is a mistaken notion to sup- 
pose that fruit-tree borders should be left uncropped ; the crops 
generally taken off those borders are of the earliest sorts, and 
are all annuals, and mostly taken off for use before they have 
come to their full perfection ; indeed many of them, such as 
salads, which generally occupy a large share of those borders, 
are used in their first stage of growth. The only crops likely 
to exhaust such borders are some of the brassica tribe, such 
as early crops of cauliflowers and cabbages ; but for those 
crops, a sufficient quantity of nutriment is laid in for them at 
planting, and without the advantages of such borders, from 
what quarter is the gardener to expect his early culinary pro- 
ductions, which in themselves are, in most cases, of equal im- 
portance to fruits ? We have never seen any ill effects fi'om 
borders being cropped with vegetables, provided that it was 
not carried to the extreme : and if the trees be manasred on 
good and proper principles, we are confident that no ill effect 
can be produced. However, for those borders on which peach 
and nectarine-trees are planted, we have already said, that dung 
in its simple state, should be avoided as much as possible ; 
still, a dressing of a rich conxpost-mould, composed of fresh 
maiden loam, vegetable mould, and dung rotted to a sufficient 
degree, and blended together, should be annually given them, 
and this will be sufficient both to nourish the trees, and to 
produce all the culinary vegetables that are generally gi*own on 
such borders. During the summer months, these borders may 
rest, particularly the southern ones, as at that season few 
vegetables can be brought to perfection on them ; but for au- 
tumn, winter, and early spring crops, they cannot be produc- 
tive of any injurious effects. The necessary stirring, digging, 
and hoeing of the ground must be of much benefit to the trees. 



Feb.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



359 



RASPBERRIES. 

Raspberries, where they remrlin unprimed, sliould be com- 
pleted this month. Clear away all decayed stems, and leave 
three or four of the strongest of last year's shoots standing on 
each root, to bear next summer : all above that number, on 
every root, must be cut away close to the surface of the ground. 

Each of the shoots which are left should be shortened 
either now or in March (see JatizianJ). 

New plantations of raspberries may be made this month, 
where wanted ; let them be planted in rows four feet asunder, 
and lot the plants be three or four feet distant from each other 
in tlic rows. See last month. 

PRUNING FIGS. 

For particular remarks, see March. 

PLANT AND PRUNE GOOSEBERRIES AND CURTxANTS. 

If these were omitted to be either planted or pruned last 
month, let that now be done. In pruning those bushes, ob- 
serve to cut aw^ay all cross-growing branches, and regulate 
those, which advance in a straggling manner from the rest; 
or, where the branches stand so close as to interfere with each . 
other, let them be thinned properly, so that every branch may 
stand clear of the other, at a regular distance, and prune out 
the superabundant, lateral, and other useless shoots of last sum- 
mer. Look over the currants upon the walls, and give them a 
regular pruning and arrangement. Encourage young wood, 
particularly from the bottom, and annually cut away a suffi- 
cient portion of the old wood to make way for the young. 
Let the shoots be laid in about four or six inches apart, and 
neatly nailed to the wall. 

Gooseberries and currants may be i)lanted any time this 
month, if in quarters, at six or eight feet apart ; if upon walls, 
from three to four feet. Plant currants, particularly red and 
white ones, on all spare pieces of wall or pales, having a 
northern aspect ; they will, if protected by nets, keep long, 



3G0 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



and be useful in autumn. A few of tliese, and some of the 
earliest gooseberries, should be planted on a wall having a 
southern aspect, to come in before those in the open garden ; 
they may be planted only for temporary purposes between any 
other wall trees, that have not yet filled their allotted space, 
and as they fill up, cut out the gooseberries and currants. 
Raspberries planted in this way come both early and improved. 

PRUNING PEACH-TREES. 

The buds of peaches and nectarines will now begin to swell, 
and may be pruned as directed last month. Where young 
maiden trees are planted, or have been planted last year, head 
them down according to their respective stren-gths. The 
weakest shoots to be cut back to one or two buds, and the less 
weak to four or five, and the more luxuriant ones may be laid 
in still longer, for they will naturally throw out sufficient 
shoots, with which to form the frame of the tree ; whereas, if 
cut in close, it would only induce them to push of course few 
buds, and those too gross and strong. Strong trees are to be 
brought into proper habits by laying in plenty of wood, and 
when they fruit, allowing more to ripen than otherwise would 
be deemed prudent; it will check their luxuriance, and fit 
them for more regular treatment. 

This is the time to model a peach-tree into whatever shape 
or habit may be required, and too much attention cannot be 
paid at this, and the subsequent prunings for the first three or 
four years. Many trees are for ever spoiled, by having thoir 
shoots laid in at full length, thus producing trees with a small 
portion of fi'uitful wood at their very extremities, while their 
bottom and centre are entirely naked. By judiciously shorten- 
ing these trees, a sufficient supply of young wood will always 
be obtained, and fruit in proportion. Trees allowed to run 
themselves to their extremities become so weakened that they 
neither do nor can produce much fruit, and what little they do 
produce, is of very inferior quality. By good management, 
peach-trees will, in the third year after planting, be brought 
into bearing, and will continue so for many years, if the border 

nas been prepared in a proper manner and occaeionallv re 
f 



rcl>.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 501 

ncweJ, provided care be taken to keep them fiill of young 
wood at the lower parts of the wall. When any large branch 
requires to be cut off, cut it close to where it arose from, 
leaving a neat wound, which should be painted over to pre- 
vent the moisture from getting in to cause decay. In taking 
out a branch of any considerable size, a space will, conse- 
quently, be left vacant upon the wall ; this space must be filled 
up as soon as possible, and may be done by altering thp 
l)ranches, both above and below it, bringing the one down ank 
the other up, so as to leave the tree as entire as possible. 

Some regulation should also take place on the opposite side 
of the tree, by altering some of the branches, in order to give 
a degree of uniformity to the whole tree, and to keep up, as 
it were, a true balance, so that one side may not, by becoming 
more powerful than the other, rob it of its share of nourish- 
ment. It will, in some cases, be even necessary to thin out 
some of the healthy branches from the opposite side to allow 
of this balance, and it is on this principle of practice that some 
of the continental fruit-growers place the greatest importance. 
When peach-trees run up, as it were, to the top of the wall, 
leaving three-fourths of it vacant, they should be cut back as 
far as any young shoots or buds appear. Never head them 
down, as is done with apples or pears ; they will seldom break 
again, and if they do, they will never be worth occupying a 
wall with : it will be better, in such cases, to root them out, as 
recommended last month. 

DIGGING THE GROUND AMONG GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS. 

The pruning of these trees being finished, let the ground 
among them be dug over, adding manure if necessary. Dig 
carefully, so as not to injure the roots, and observe to bury 
most of the dung in the centre of the intervals, in order to 
feed the roots as they advance, that is, in cases where they 
have been planted in quarters. If planted in straight lines, 
or on walls, the same rule ought to be adopted, so far as not 
to disturb other plants. As all roots are best fed at their ex- 
tremities, we recommend this mode of applying the manure to 
that of giving it promiscuously over all the space between the 

3 A 



S62 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



rows, and most generally close to the stem of the bushes. 
When these fruits are planted in quarters, they should be re- 
newed every seven or ten years ; . in that case, finer fruit would 
be produced, and the plants could be kept within such bounds 
as to admit of the ground between the rows being cropped 
with culinary vegetables. The Lancashire connoisseurs grow 
their finer gooseberries in very highly manured soils, and give 
copious supplies of water, and often apply liquid manure. By 
this method, and by shading and thinning the fi'uit, they ob- 
tain it of such a size, that it is not surpassed in any part of the 
world. They not only water at the root, but often place small 
saucers with water under each fruit ; this is what they call 
suckling their gooseberries. When fi-uit of the largest size is 
required, they often do not allow more than three or four 
berries to remain on a tree ; they also cut off the greater part 
of the young wood, so as to throw all the nourishment pos- 
sible into the fruit. 

By digging the ground at this season, or during any of the 
winter months, such insects as may be deposited in their larvae 
state in the ground wall be destroyed, or buried so deeply that 
the heat of the sun will not be sufficiently powerful to re-ani- 
mate them, at least at an. early period of summer, while the 
leaves and shoots are in a tender state. With a view to this 
effect, Tweedie, an experienced gardener, pares all the earth 
from under the bushes to the depth of about three inches into 
a flat ridge between the rows ; on the first dry day following, 
he either treads, beats, or rolls these ridges, and trenches the 
whole down one and a half or two spades deep, observing to 
tread the foul earth into the bottom of the trench. 



I 



Mar.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



363 



MARCH. 



PLANTING WALL, ESPALIER, AND STANDARD FRUIT-TREES. 

Sucli of these trees as have not been planted, either in au- 
tumn or the two preceding months, should now be planted 
without delay, especially if it be a forward season, and before 
the trees are too far gone in vegetation. In all soils, this is a 
proper season to plant ; directions for which, see the two last 
months. 

HEADING DOWN OR RENEWING OLD FRUIT-TREES. 

When trees become stinted and diseased, either by old age, 
bad soils, or unskilful management, they should now be headed 
down, or otherwise renovated, of else cleared out and young 
ones planted in their stead. Most trees may be renewed by 
heading down, which is the simplest mode, and one that is the 
most often adopted ; indeed all trees, excepting the peach and 
nectarine will be much improved by being headed down, on 
their showing symptoms of decay or disease. In performing 
this operation, the whole of the head or branches of the tree 
should be cut off in a careful manner with a saw, if their 
branches be large ; and with a pruning chisel, if less strong ; 
or with a knife, if not of large dimensions ; observing, in using 
the saw, to smoothen the wound over with a sharp knife, and 
to make the cut in a sloping direction, for the purpose of 
allowing the water to pass freely off; and after the operation 
is finished, paint the wound over with any mild paint, to resist 
all possibility of moisture lodging in the wound. In heading 
down, cut all the ramifications of the tree off a few inches 
above the graft or bud ; and if it be thought necessary, from 
their exhausted state, let them also be carefully taken up, un- 
less very old ; their roots examined, and all diseased or bruised 
roots shortened or removed ; at the same time replant them in 
either fresh mould brought from the compost-yard, or, if the 



36* 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



soil be pretty good, only add a part of new to the old soil. If 
circumstances will admit, in replanting, remove the trees a 
little out of the spot on which they formerly grew, or if con- 
venient, take them to a greater distance. Let them be care- 
fully planted, as already recommended for planting fruit-trees, 
and a plentiful supply of water given ; then, while the process 
of filling in the mould is going on, and after all is finished, 
give some water to settle the mould about the whole. At most 
seasons of planting, a plentiful supply of water should be 
given, indeed so as to form the whole mould into a thick sort 
of puddle. In light soils, this is of the greatest importance 
to the future gi'owth of the trees, and more so in planting old 
trees than young ones. During the early summer months, 
water should be copiously given, not only at their roots, but 
over their heads. Some rotten dung, or littery matter, may be 
placed round their stems, to prevent the air and drought from 
penetrating to their roots ; and the stems should be enveloped 
with old mats, or moss tied round them, and, during the 
ascent of the sap, kept moist by pouring water occasionally 
upon them. Under such treatment, fine healthy trees may again 
be made of those which were both diseased and barren. The 
training of the new shoots thus produced differs in no respect 
from that of young trees of the same sorts. Much has been 
lately said in regard to producing a state of fruitfulness in barren 
and unblossoming trees, and various plans have been tried with 
different degrees of success. Almost every description of fruit- 
tree will come into bearing in regular course, according to its 
nature, if planted in a proj)er soil, and one that is not too 
deep, provided the roots do not penetrate into a bad sub-soil, 
and produce canker, and finally death. A shallow soil is more 
likely to produce fruitful trees sooner than a deep one, and 
therefore care ought to be taken in planting, to prevent their 
roots penetrating too deeply. If they penetrate into a canker- 
ing gravel, they soon get into a diseased state, and no fruit can 
therefore be expected from them. And if they get too deep in 
a soil that is really good, they, by some means, not always 
obvious, acquire the power of throwing muoli superfluous sap 
into the tree, which spends itself in leaves and branches in- 
stead of blossoms. To correct this superabundance of sap. 



Nun] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



365 



has been a consideration of the horticulturist for above a liun- 
dred and fifty years. The celebrated Evelyn recommended 
the system of laying bare the roots ; this certainly will, in 
some measure, produce the desired effect, but at the same time 
may be productive of a worse, namely, the death of the tree. 
Nature has never directed the exposure of the roots, but stu- 
diously hides them from sight ; but every one must have ob- 
served, that trees partially blown over, or with the earth re- 
moved from their roots, or the roots mutilated by digging too 
closely to them, or with their trunks or roots broken or beaten, 
or otherwise mutilated, are always more fruitful than othei*s ; 
and this, no doubt, first suggested the idea of artificial mutila- 
tion. Mutilation, both in plants and animals, is attended by 
a SQxt of maturity, and maturity, in all living things, is the 
period of reproduction. Nature, in all cases, when she begins 
to feel the effects of decay, generally makes a grand effort to 
reproduce its species. 

Certain operations may, however, be performed, and which 
may justly be called the system of pruning the roots, in order 
to correct irregularities, and induce the stronger and almost 
naked roots to throw out a greater number of fibres, wherewith 
to collect a sufficient supply of nourishment, as well as by 
shortening the stronger and tap-roots from penetrating too far 
in search of food, and keeping up, as it were, a just propor- 
tion of roots to the branches of the tree. The branches are 
shortened to produce more fruitful shoots, and the stronger 
roots shouhl be shortened, to cause a supply of fibrous roots 
to push for collecting food to nourish them. Strong naked 
roots collect no nourishment, but serve the no less important 
office of conveying that nourishment collected by the fibres to 
the stem of the tree, by which it is conducted to the larger 
branches, which, in their turn, convey it to the smaller, and 
they to the extremities of the buds and leaves. Transplanting 
trees frequently, as we have already advised, produces this 
effect, while it answers a no less important one, namely, that 
of removing the tree into fresh food, and is of all methods the 
most rational. Boring a hole in the stem of the tree, and 
driving in an oaken plug, is spoken of by Van Osten as boing 
practised in his time. Cutting notches in the stem and branches 



366 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER.' 



[Mar, 



has been recommended. Partial decortication was recom- 
mended by Arnaud d'Andilly in 1650, and of late years has 
been practised by many on standard fruit-trees. Stripping oft 
pieces of the bark was recommended by Marshall. Ringing 
the stem and branches was known to the Romans, and is men- 
tioned by Virgil, Columella, &c. Duhamel revived this prac- 
tice amongst the moderns, and since his time, it has been prac- 
tised in Holland and Germany. A. Hempel, a Saxon, so late 
as 1815, published an account of this practice, of which he 
claims to be the inventor. The use of ringing was, in all pro- 
bability, introduced into England soon after Duhamel's ex- 
periments were published. Dr. Darwin, in his notes to Phy- 
tologia, describes the practice and accounts for its effects. It 
was brought to the notice of the Horticultural Society by a 
paper of the late Dr. Nohden, and was then considered a new 
principle. It is nov/ frequently practised, both for the pur- 
pose of inducing blossoms on trees, or rendering them pro- 
ductive, and for accelerating the maturity and increasing the 
size of the fruit. The former has been termed production- 
ringing, and the latter maturation-ringing. The former 
should be performed in the spring, and will produce its effects 
the following year ; the latter mode should be performed when 
the plants are in blossom, and will show its effects the same 
season. Bending down the branches has been recommended 
to produce fruitfulness, by fixing balls of clay to the extremi- 
ties of the shoots of young apple-trees about midsummer, 
which, by depressing them, is supposed to stagnate the sap and 
induce the production of flower-buds. The latter mode is 
the least objectionable, as it cannot have much effect on the 
health of the tree. The others are all founded on the same 
principle, namely, depriving the tree of health. This appears 
to be the conclusion drawn by Mr. Sabine upon the merits of 
ringing. " There is," he says, a pear-tree against one of 
the walls in the kitchen-garden belonging to his Majesty at 
Kew, which underwent the operation of ringing about fifteen 
years ago. The part operated on was near the root, and as 
it was a principal arm, about one-half of the whole tree be- 
came influenced by the operation. This half has uniformly 
borne fruit, the other half has been ncarl\- barren. The poi-. 



Mar.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



3G7 



tion of stem which was laid bare was about six inches wide, 
and it has not again been covered with bark. That part just 
above the ring is considerably larger than the part below it. 
The ends of the branches appear in much decay, and there 
are but few young shoots thrown out from the sides ; whilst 
on the other part of the tree, the shoots as usual proceed from 
the extremities, as well as from the sides of the main branches. 
I apprehend," he adds, " from the present appearance of the 
whole, that the portion of the tree, which by the separation of 
the bark, has been deprived, in a great measure, of supply from 
the root, cannot survive many years." 

A more rational mode was adopted in the gardens of Lord 
^Mansfield, in Perthshire, by cutting the roots of the trees 
nearly to their stem ; and this operation was performed in the 
beginning of July, and with every success. It is necessary to 
state, that this operation was performed not only on a single 
tree or two, but on a wall four hundred feet long. In most 
cases, when barrenness proceeds from the roots absorbing a 
greater portion of nutriment than is really necessary, which 
will often be the case, when the borders are either naturally, 
or have been made too deep, this shortening of the roots will 
be of much service. But when barrenness proceeds fi'om an 
insufficiency of nutriment, which is also often the case, and 
which is easily seen by the trees getting into a stinted state, 
making little or no wood, and the little that is made small and 
sickly, then taking up and replanting again, as advised above, 
is the only cure, and this system, while it induces fertility, 
produces first the principal cause of that fertility, by renewing 
the health of the tree and supplying it with proper food. 

PRUNING FRUIT-TREES. 

It is not yet too late to prune the trees, but the sooner it is 
now done the better, especially as the plums, cherries, apri- 
cots, figs, and the early kind of pears, are now coming into 
flower. If the orchard-trees, and the various kinds of stand- 
ards, were not pruned in the preceding months, it may now 
be done. When, however, the branches of any kind of fruit- 
trees are to be anointed, it would not be proper to delay the 



oG8 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mar, 

pmniiig* after the first week in the month, which, if it be post- 
poned, the buds are very apt to be injured, or perhaps entirely 
rubbed oftl 

HEADING DOWN NEWLY-PLANTED FRUIT-TREES. 

At the end of this month, the trees that were planted in 
or about the preceding October should now be headed down. 
On this subject Nicol very justly observes : Trees that are 
intended to be trained horizontally, and have but one shoot 
or stem from the graft, should be headed down to four or five 
buds, out of which, if three spring, it is sufficient ; one to be 
ti'ained upright, and one on each side, horizontally. If a 
plant have two shoots, cut away the weakest, and treat the 
strongest as above. But if the plant be furnished with three 
shoots, (and such are always to be preferred for this mode of 
ti'aining,) head down the middle one only, as above., if mode- 
rately strong ; but to ten or twelve inches, if very stout ; and 
lay in the other two, right and left, perfectly level. If these 
be quite entire, and ripened to the extremities, they must not 
be shortened." 

On the other hand, ti'ees that are intended to be trained in 
the fan manner, having but one shoot, should be headed down 
to four or five buds, if they be strong, and to three or four, if 
they be weak, in order that the wall or rail may be filled from 
the bottom. Those trees which have two or three shoots, may 
be headed to four or five buds ; from which, if they all flourish, 
a proper number are to be reserved for the formation of the 
tree. 

The newly planted trees, which are two or three years from 
the bud or gi'aft, should now be well cut in ; that is, the shoots 
of last year should be shortened back to a few buds on each, 
for the purpose of enabling them to push the stronger, and 
to poduce shoots to fill the wall or rail from the bottom. 

GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS. 

Tne beginning of the month, finish pruning gooseberry and 
currant-bushes, where they have not yet been done. Keep 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 



369 



the branches thin, and the middle open, so as to admit the 
sun and air freely ; by which means the fruit will be large and 
well tasted. Observe the rules laid down in January. 

Dig the ground between the gooseberry and currant-trees, if 
not done in the two former months, which, as they arc just 
advancing in bud, will be of great service, in promoting the 
gi'owth of large good fruit. 

Finish planting gooseberry and currant-trees, as early in the 
month as convenient. See January^ February, &c. 

PLANTING AND rROPAGATING FIG-TREES. 

This is a proper season to plant fig-trees, as those which 
are planted at this time are found to succeed better than if 
planted at any other period of the year. This tree is readily 
})ropagated either by cuttings or layers, and in either state can 
be procured in the public nurseries in pots, where they are 
grown until they have attained a proper size and age for plant- 
ing. Let them be carefully turned out of the pots without 
disturbing the ball, and planted in any good garden-mould, 
observing to give them plenty of water as soon as planted. If 
planted against a wall, the shoots should be immediately nailed 
in, to prevent their being broken, to which, from their brittle 
nature, they are very liable. Cover the surface round their 
stems with rotten dung, or littery matter, to exclude the spring 
droughts, as directed above for other fruit-trees. Figs may 
now also be propagated either by cuttings of the shoots, or 
by laying their lower branches in pots sunk in the ground for 
that purpose. They will, during summer, if rnoderately sup- 
plied with water, strike root, and be by next spring fit for 
planting out if wanted; and if left for another season, be in a 
good sUite, either for that purpose or for potting in large pots 
for forcing. 

PRUNING AND PLANTING RASPBERRIES. 

Prune raspberries, observing to cut out all the dead wood ; 
and where the live shoots, which were produced last summer, 
and which are the bearing wood of this year, stand too thick, 

3 B 



370 



THE FIIACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



let them be thinned out as in the former months, and shorten 
the shoots which are left. 

The ground between the rows of raspberries should now be 
dug, it will strengthen the shoots, and add a neatness to the 
place. 

Plantations of raspberries maybe made any time this month: 
they will take root soon after they are planted, grow freely, 
and produce fruit the same year : give them some water occa- 
sionally in dry weather, till they have taken fresh root. 

In planting raspberries, remember it is the young shoots 
which were produced from the old roots last year, that are the 
proper plants ; choosing those, the roots of which are well fur- 
nished with fibres, and one or more buds formed at bottom for 
new shoots, and rejecting such as have naked, hard, woody 
roots. Let them be planted as mentioned in the two former 
months. 

GRAFTING FRUIT-TREES. 

Almost every cultivator of fruits has experienced some dis- 
appointment in finding, when his trees arrive at a bearing state, 
that many of them turn out to be very different from what he 
expected, and this is not often detected, particularly in the 
case of pears, for many years, nor until the trees have attained 
a large size. It is a mortifying consideration to have to root 
them out, and to plant others, by which he is not certain he 
may not be equally disappointed. The only alternative, in 
such cases, is to head them down, and to engraft upon their 
branches or stems, the scions which he may procure of the sorts 
desired. The operation of grafting may be successfully per- 
formed upon trees of almost any age or size, although, no 
doubt, the younger the ti'ee or branches are, that are to be 
grafted, the greater success will attend the operation. But 
if properly done, it may be performed on trees of all sizes and 
ages with tolerable success. There are many modes of gi'aft- 
ing; the following are in most general use. 

Ri?fg, sJioulder, or croivn grafting, is that in which the 
gi-afts are set in a circle, or crown, and is chiefly practised 
on large trees, where either the head or larger branches are 
cut off horizontally, and two or m.ore shoots or scions put in. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



371 



according to the size of the branch and stem. In performing 
this operation, the scions or grafts are cut flat on one side, 
with a slioulder to rest on the crown of the stock ; then the 
rind of the stock is raised up, to admit them between the wood 
and the bark of the stock, which must be inserted about two 
inches, so that the shoulders may meet, and closely join the 
crown of the stock, and after the whole of the scions are in- 
serted, all the crown of the stock should be well clayed over, 
leaving only two eyes of the grafts uncovered, which will be 
sufficient for shooting. This method of grafting was much 
more in use formerly than at present, owing to the bad success 
with which it was attended ; for as the grafts are placed be- 
tween the rind of the stock and the wood, they are frequently 
blown out by strong winds, sometimes after they are in a bear- 
ing state. Where this method is practised, the young shoots 
should be properly supported by stakes. It is a convenient 
way for grafting old trees cut down to the surface. 

Cleft, or slit-grafting y which is performed on stocks and 
branches of smaller size, may be adopted with success, where 
the bark or rind is not too thick, by which the inner bark of 
the graft will be prevented from joining chat of the stock. In 
performing this sort of grafting, the head of the stock or 
branch must be cut off with a slope, and a slit made the oppo- 
site v/ay in the top of the slope, deep enough to receive the 
scion or graft, which should be cut sloping like a wedge, so as 
to fit the slit made in the stock, care being taken to leave that 
side of the wedge, which is to be placed outward, much thicker 
than the other ; and in putting the scion into the slit of the 
stock, great care must be taken to join the rind of the scion 
exactly to that of the stock; for, if these do not unite, the 
grafts will not succeed : when this method of grafting is used 
to stooks that are not strong, it will be proper to make a liga- 
ture of bass, to prevent the slit of the stock from opening; 
aftei' which, the whole should be clayed over, to prevent the 
air from penetrating the slit, so as to destroy the grafts, only 
leaving two eyes of the scions above the clay for shooting. It 
is usually performed about the beginning of March. 

W/tij), or tongtte-graftingi is the most generally practised 
by nurserymen, especially for small stocks, or branches of an 



872 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



:nch, half an inch, or less, as the scions much sooner cover 
the stocks in this method than in the others. It is performed 
by cutting off the head of the stocks sloping ; then making 
a notch in the slope towards the upper part downward, a little 
more than half an inch deep, to receive the scion, which must 
be cat with the slope upward, and a slit made in this slope ? 
like a tongue, which tongue must be inserted into the slit 
made in the slope of the stock, and the scion be placed on 
one side of the stock, so as that the two rinds of both scion 
and stock may be equal and join together exactly ; after which 
there should be a ligature of bass put round to fasten the 
scion, so as that it may not be easily displaced, the whole 
being afterwards clayed over as in the former methods. It 
may be performed in the early spring months. 

Grafting by approach, inarch- grafting, is performed 
when the stocks that are designed to be grafted, and the tree 
from which the gi'aft is to be taken, stand so near together as 
that their branches may be bent and united. It is commonly 
practised on tender exotic plants, and some other sorts which 
do not succeed in any of the other methods. In performing 
the work, a part of the stock or branch is slit off about two 
inches in length, a smooth part of the stock being always 
chosen for the purpose ; then a small notch made in this slit of 
the stock downward, in the same manner as directed for whip- 
grafting; the branch of the tree designed to be inarched, 
having a part slit off in the same manner as the stock, and a 
slit made upward in it, so as to leave a tongue, which tongue 
should be inserted into the slit of the stock, joining their rinds 
equally, that they may unite well together ; after which a liga- 
ture of bass should be made so as to keep them exactly in 
their situation, and afterwards this part of the stock clayed 
over well, to keep out the air. In this method of grafting, 
the scion is not separated from the tree until it be firmly united 
v/ith the stock, nor is the head of the stock or branch, which 
is grafted, cut oft' until the same time, and only half the wood 
pared off' with a slope, about three inches in length, and the 
same of the scion or graft. In this method of grafting, the 
operation is not performed so early in the season as the others ; 
it being done in the month of April, when the sap is flow- 



Mar,] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 



ing, at wliich time the scion and stock will join together, and 
unite much sooner than at any other season or period of the 
year. It is principally employed in raising camellias, oranges, 
and other exotic trees of the harder kinds. 

It has been found that the walnut, fig, and mulberry will 
take by this method of grafting, while neither of them succeed 
well in any of the other modes. Several sorts of evergreens 
may likewise be propagated by this method of grafting; but 
all the trees that are grafted in this way are weaker, and 
never grow to the size of those which are grafted in the 
other methods ; therefore it is rarely practised, except on such 
sorts of trees as will not take by the other methods of per- 
forming the operation. 

Root-grafting is performed by cutting the clean smooth 
roots of the stocks in pieces five or six inches long, and as 
large or a little larger than the graft; then they are whip- 
grafted, and tied together very closely, so as to prevent the 
wet from affecting the wounded parts, planting them so deep 
as that the graft, which should be four or five inches long, 
may be about half buried. 

Side-grafthig resembles whip or tongue-grafting, but dif- 
fers in being performed on the side of the stock without being 
headed down. It is sometimes practised upon wall-trees, to 
fill up vacancies, and sometimes in order to have a variety of 
fruits on the same tree. Having fixed on those parts of the 
branches, where shoots are wanted to furnish the head or 
any part of the tree, then slope off the bark, and a little of 
the wood, and cut the lower ends of the scions to fit the part as 
near as possible, then join them to the branch, and secure them 
with bass, and clay them over as in other sorts of grafting. 

Shoulder i or chinh-grafting, is performed with a shoulder 
and sometimes with a stay at the bottom of the slope. It is 
chiefly used for shrubs and ornamental trees, where the scion 
and stock are of the same size. 

Saddlc-graftlng is performed by first cutting the head oil 
the stock in a wedge-like form, and then splitting up the end 
of the scion, and thinning off each half to a tongue-shape; 't 
is then placed on the wedge-like stock, embracing it on each 
bide, and the inner barks are made to join on one side of the 



374 



inii PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



stock, as in cleft-grafting. This is a very strong and handsome 
mode of grafting for standard trees, grafted at the standard 
lieight, as it makes a good finish, covering a part of the stock, 
which in other methods long remains a black scar, and seldom 
or never becomes covered with bark. The stocks for this pur- 
pose should never be much thicker than the scions. In some 
cases, two scions may be inserted, and the stock by that 
means will sooner be covered. There are two other varieties 
of saddle-grafting described by Mr. Knight, neither of which 
differs from this in the end which is to be obtained ; although 
they are in themselves curious, and their rationale described 
by that eminent horticulturist in his usual masterly manner. 

Peg-grafting is an old method, in which the stock being 
cut off horizontally, a hole is bored in the centre of it, and 
the scion being selected to fit the stock ; within an inch and a 
half of its lower end, a circular incision is made, and the part 
between that and the end reduced so as to fit the hole in the 
stock. This peg filling the hole is supposed to secure the 
graft from the effects of winds. It is now seldom practised. 
Besides these modes described, there are many others. The late 
Professor Thouin enumerates above forty methods of grafting, 
besides a great many modes of budding and inarching ; and 
M. Louis Noisette has published a description of one hundred 
and thirty-seven modes. These are, however, only varieties 
of the more common ones, and their shades of difference are 
so slight, or remotely connected with utility, that they do not 
appear to attract the attention of any but the cuiious, and are 
not likely ever to come into common practice. 

Cleft, or crown-grafting, is the method generally adopted 
by those, who by this plan renovate old trees, or \v\\o, for fancy 
and amusement, engraft many different varieties on the same 
tree. If it be intended to renovate a tree, all the branches 
should be headed and grafted; whether it have been fan 
or horizontally trained. They should not be all cut to equal 
lengths, but to different ones, that the new wood may issue, 
nor all at one part, in a crowded manner, but at various 
heights, in order that room may be given to train it properly. 
Two, three, or four grafts should be put on each branch, ac- 
cording to its size, so that if two or three fail, the taking of 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



375 



one may be insured; which is generally sufficient to leave, 
unless it be thought expedient to leave two on the larger 
branches, or on the stems of those trees which have been 
trained horizontally, and have been headed entirely down. 

In grafting on branches more than two inches diameter, 
crown-gi-afting is the method most generally used ; for smaller 
stems or branches, cleft-grafting should be preferred. 

The period or season for grafting should always be regu 
lated by the state of the weather. From the climate being so 
uncertain in the spring, it is better to defer it till the circula- 
tion of the sap be brisk, and the buds of the stocks begin to 
break, attention being paid that the weak shoots of tender 
trees will not admit of being so long cut as the more hardy, 
and that the operation should never be performed while it 
actually freezes or rains. 

Grafts or scions should generally be chosen from the young 
shoots of last summer's growth, and those from the outside or 
lateral branches are the best ; although we have both recorded 
and experimental evidence to shew, that wood of more than 
one year, and indeed of several years' growth, will succeed. 
Mr. Knight, the Baron Tschoudi, and others, have grafted 
young shoots in leaf; and Van Mons, at Brussels, has grafted 
an entire tree of fifteen feet in height on the stump of another 
of similar diameter. But for general practice, the outside 
lateral shoots are preferred, because they are not so robust, 
nor so apt to run to v/ood, as those from the centre or top of 
the tree, nor so weak as those at its base, and under the 
shade and drip of the rest. Such shoots are found from ex- 
perience to produce the truest specimens of the fruit of the 
tree from which they are taken. 

An exception to this rule is to be found when the trees are 
in a sickly state, when, of course, the grafts should be taken 
from the strong shoots in the centre, or near the top of the 
tree. The ends of each scion should be cut off, unless it be 
a sort which is wished to be propagated, and only one or two 
scions to be had. In all cases, where there ^re plenty of scions, 
use only the middle part, rejecting both the top and base of 
the shoot; or if the shoots be long, and of a rare variety, they 
may be then cut into several lengths of six or sPven inches 



o7() THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mar 

each. They should be cut off the parent tree some time pre- 
riously to their being used, experience having shown that it is 
necessary to allow the stock to have the advantage over the 
graft in forwardness of vegetation. The sap of the stock 
should be in active motion at the time of grafting, which would 
also be the case with the scion, if left on the parent tree; 
whereas the grafts being taken off some time before, their buds 
will consequently be kept back, and ready only to swell when 
placed upon the stock. Grafts should be collected any time 
in January, or the beginning of Febmary, and kept at their 
whole length, laid in dry mould, in a situation where they 
are not exposed to either frost or much sunshine, until they 
be used ; or they may be taken off in autumn, provided that 
the wood be properly ripened, and sent to any distance, having 
one end packed in clay, rather dry than moist, and a covering 
of moss over all. 

The greatest care should be taken in procuring grafts, so 
that they come not from trees infested with insects, or of 
diseased habits, and also that tliey be cut off the tree, the 
sort of which is particularly wanted ; and after being cut, should 
be immediately labeled, in a correct and legible manner, that 
no disappointment may occur : after having been at the expense 
and trouble to procure grafts from a distance, should they turn 
out to be different from wdiat they were intended, such a 
disappointment will be great. At this season, we would re- 
commend to have grafts of part or all of the seedling fruits 
planted in the shrubbery or otherwise, put on in order to 
prove their merits ; they should not be all put on one ti'ee, 
nor in one situation ; some should be tried on walls, some on 
espaliers, and some on standards, in order that their relative 
merits may be ascertained. Probably the first year of their 
fruiting they may not be so fine, as they will be at a more 
mature age, therefore they should be allowed a few years, 
and if we find that they progressively improve, there will be 
some hope of having in time a new or good variety. 

Implements proper for the ivorJc. — These are principally, 
a neat small hand-saw, for cutting off the heads of large 
stocks ; a good strong knife, with a thick back, to make clefts 
in the stocks ; wdth a sharp pen-knife, or budding-knife, to 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



377 



cut the gi-afts with ; and a grafting-cliiscl and small mallet. 
Other sorts of instruments are sometimes necessary in per- 
forming particular sorts of grafting. 

Besides these tools, other sorts of materials are wanted in 
pcrforining the business, such as bass-strings, to tie the grafts 
with, which should be selected from a fresh new mat, and 
a quantity of good tough clay, which should be prepared a 
month before it is wanted, and kept turned and mixed, like 
mortar, every other day, in the following manner : 

A quantity of strong good clay, in proportion to the quan- 
tity of trees intended to be grafted, should be provided, and 
some new horse-dung broken in among it ; and if a little cut 
straw or hay be mixed amongst it, it will hold together the 
better. These sliould be well stirred together, putting water 
to them occasionally, in the manner of making mortar. The 
whole should be hollowed like a dish, filled with water, and 
kept every other day stirred. It should be carefully kept 
from being exposed to frost or drying winds ; and the oftener 
it is wrought over the better. 

The grafting-clay of the French and Dutch is composed of 
half cow-dung, free from litter, and half fresh loam, well in- 
corporated. Several substitutes have been recommended for 
clay ; for fruit-trees, however, there is not any thing better 
than clay, which has been so long in use. The others are 
used for grafting tender exotics, whose tender frames would 
be liable to be broken by the weight of clay necessary for the 
exclusion of air and moisture, which is all that the clay or any 
other substitute is used for. Whatever sort of clay is used, 
it is of the utmost importance, that it be used as soon as pos- 
sible after the scion is put on, to prevent the extravasation of 
the sap from the wounds, the too sudden drying of the wood, 
and the introduction of rain-water into the wound or cleft; 
and whenever it is damaged by drying too soon, or other acci- 
dents, it should be instantly repaired. In very dry springs, 
or when the clay is not very tenacious, or any particular sort 
of gi'aft, to avoid accidents, or failure, it is advisable to cover 
the clay with moss tied on in a neat manner, and to give 
frequent waterings, either with the garden-engine, or watering- 
pot with a fine rose. AVhen the grafts are put on near the 

3 c 



378 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



gTound, where it is practicable, draw some of the mould round 
the stem of the stock, so as to cover the ball of clay ; it will be 
of much benefit to the taking and growing of the scions. 

To the amateur who objects to the use of clay, the following 
composition, recommended by Mr. Powell, may be considered 
as an excellent succedaneum. Take one pound of pitch, one 
pound of resin, half a pound of bees'-wax, one quarter of a 
pound of hogs'-lard, a quarter of a pound of turpentine, 
melted and mixed well together. This composition is kept 
in a fluid state, by putting it in an earthen pan over boiling 
v/ater; with a brush it is then spread evenly on sheets of 
moderately thin brown paper, which, when cold, is cut into 
slips about three-quarters of an inch w^ide. The scion being 
fitted to the stock, take one of these slips, warm it by breath- 
ing on it, and bind it round the graft, when it will be found 
to serve the purpose both of matting and claying. 

WATERING AND PROTECTING NEWLY-PLANTED TREES. 

All fruit-trees planted in autumn, or early in the spring, 
should be protected from the effects of high wdnds, by being 
properly staked up, as already directed, and also occasionally 
watered, which will be of much importance to their breaking 
strong and taking properly to the soil. 

DIGGING THE FRUIT-TREE BORDERS. 

Dig the fruit-tree borders : this will be serviceable to the 
trees, and destroy weeds ; and the borders will appear neat, 
and be ready for sowing or planting with crops of small 
growth, or such as will not much exhaust the soil. 

Hoe the surface of such fruit-tree borders as were dug in 
the foregoing months, and are not sown with crops ; such as 
radishes, spinach, lettuce, &c. 

PLANTING STRAWBERRIES. 

This is a good season for making new plantations of this 
valuable and excellent fruit. Tn preparing the ground for 



Mar.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



379 



them, it is necessary that it should be trenched or deeply dug, 
the roots of these plants penetrating to a great depth, and at 
the same time well manured. They may be planted in rows 
at from eighteen inches to two feet apart, according to their 
kinds, or in beds, each containing three rows, with alleys 
of three feet between the beds, and the rows eighteen inches 
apart in the beds, and the plants twelve or fifteen inches apart 
in the line, according to their sort. Choose the young plants 
from the runners of the preceding season well rooted, and be 
careful not to mix the sorts, while collecting the plants. In- 
deed, every sort of strawberry, where it can conveniently be 
done, should be grown in separate beds, and at such a dis- 
tance, as will prevent their running into one another. Never 
plant old plants by any means, but have the runners of the pre- 
ceding season taken off' when well rooted, and put into nursing- 
beds, to gain strength, they will be in good condition to plant 
in spring. The duration of strawberry-beds depends on a 
variety of circumstances, sometimes they will last for ten, 
twelve, or more years, and often only for two or three crops; 
and some cultivators only allow them to remain on the 
ground one year. The Rev. Thos. Garnier, of Stoke, near 
Southampton, a successful cultivator of this fruit, destroys all 
his beds early in August, as soon as the gatherings are over, 
and then proceeds to form new ones by trenching and ma- 
nuring them ; he selects his plants from the strongest runners 
of the old rejected plants. If the weather should be parti- 
cularly hot, and the surface of the ground much parched, he 
defers the operation of preparing and planting his beds till the 
ground be moistened with rain. Such is the simple mode of 
treatment whicli he has adopted for several successive years, 
and such is his success, that he produces a greater quantity of 
excellent fruit on a given piece of ground than that of any 
other gardener in the county. Depth of soil, he observes, is 
absolutely necessary, and in his opinion, it is needless to plant 
many of the better kinds of strawbemes, where it is not of a 
considerable depth. In this we perfectly agree with Mr. 
Garnier, and nuist observe, that the finest and greatest crops 
of this fruit we ever saw, were in his garden. It is not gene- 
rally known, but it is an ascertained fact, that most straw- 



380 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



berries generate roots, and strike them into the ground nearly 
two feet deep in the course of the season. The pine, Grove 
End, and roseberry, succeed better than any other in stiff 
and shallow soils, and should be planted in an open situa- 
tion, and not in one too much shaded. Many sorts of 
strawberry are now raised annually from seed, which is 
sown when the fruit is ripe. Plants are produced to plant 
out at this time, and if planted in rather a moist situation, 
will produce abundance of fine-flavoured fruit the following 
autumn. The Alpine strawberry should always be raised from 
seeds, and differs from all others of the same family, inas- 
much that it produces abundance of fruit the same season 
that it is sown. For this purpose, it is sown in spring, 
on a bed of rich earth, and sometimes in pans or shallow 
boxes, where, in the latter way, it is forwarded, by being 
placed in some of the forcing departments, not too warm, and 
when above ground gradually hardened to the open air. By 
such means, it gets rather stronger than those reared on a 
bed of light earth out of doors. In July, or August, they 
are, in either case, fit to plant out for good, which is generally 
done in a shaded situation, either behind a wall, or hedge, in 
rich moist soil, allowing the plants two feet apart, row from 
row, and one foot apart in the line. In this way, abundant 
crops are obtained, and will continue bearing until destroyed 
by the frost. The season of this fine fi'uit can thus be pro- 
longed for a considerable time : forced roseberries, pines, or 
Alpines, being ripe in March, and the seedling Alpines in fruit 
till the middle of November. In making plantations of this 
fruit, plenty of room should be allowed them, that they may 
not be destroyed in the process of watering or gathering them. 
The hautboy generally thrives best in light soils, and cannot 
be scarcely over-dunged, as it is not so likely to be thrown 
into a superfluity of leaves by manure as some of the others. 
There are various sorts of this species, all of them esteemed 
for their fine flavor ; one variety has the parts of fructification 
so perfect, that it bears plentifully, being capable of fecun- 
dating itself ; while some other varieties are so imperfect, that 
they contain the male parts in one flower, and the female in 
another. Still those latter varieties are reckoned the finest 



Mar.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



381 



flavored fruit. Keen, a respectable market-gardener, and a 
successful cultivator of this fruit, observes, that great care is 
necessary to be taken in selecting young plants of these sorts 
for making out new plantations ; that there be a proper pro- 
portion of male plants to the female, not having too many of 
the former, as they bear no fruit, and are more prone to run 
into leaves and runners than the other. He considers, that 
the proportions ought to be one male to ten females, and states 
his experience for making such a choice. Having formerly 
been in the habit of selecting female plants alone for his beds, 
he failed in being able to procure crops ; but in 1809, suspect- 
ing his error, he obtained some male blossoms, which he 
placed in a bottle on the bed of female hautboys. In a few 
days, he perceived the fruit near the bottle to swell. On this 
observation, he procured more male blossoms, and in like 
manner placed them in bottles in different parts of the beds, 
removing the bottles to fresh places every morning, and by 
this means obtained a moderate crop where he had no fruit the 
preceding year. 

In making out fresh strawberry plantations, attention should 
be paid to the above, as far as regards this species of straw- 
berry. The distinctions between the sexes can be most readily 
observed while in flower, and the plants should be then 
marked ; or in selecting them while in fruit, choose ten young 
plants from those which bear fruit, and one from those which 
are barren. 

Strawberries require a larger portion of water than almost 
any other of our cultivated fi-uits to bring their crops to per- 
fection. A considerable expense is incurred on this account 
by the strawberry-growers in the vicinity of London and Edin- 
burgh. They seldom have the opportunity of selecting a na- 
turally moist situation for this fruit, and the formation of an 
artificial strawberry-garden would be attended with too much 
expense for them, the quantity which they cultivate being so 
great. A very rational and useful strawberry-garden is de- 
scribed by W. Atkinson, Esq., in the Horticultural Transac- 
tions, Vol. V. p. 191, which was observed by that scientific 
gentleman some years ago, in the vicinity of Chatham, and 
was the invention of a person at that place. 



382 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER, 



[Mar 



The beds (1) were on flat ground, each about three feet wide ; 
between them were trenches, (2) about nine inches wide, and 
four-inch walls of brick-work on each side, to keep up the earth 




of the beds. These trenches were about the depth of two or 
three courses of brick laid flat without mortar, and were in- 
tended for the purpose of holding water, which was supplied 
from a pump whenever the ground was dry, while the plants 
were in fruit. 

In Devonshire, the same gentleman observes, that straw- 
berry-beds are constructed against the side of a hill or bank, 
by building up beds in steps, with rough granite at the front 
to keep up the earth, each step being about two feet high, and 
three feet wide. These steps are filled with good loam, and 
the surfaces of the beds covered with rough pieces of granite 
bedded into the loam, leaving openings between the stones, 
just sufficient to put in the plants. The surface being thus 
covered with stones, the ground is thereby kept moist, and 
the fruit always clean. Beds on this plan might be readily 
made in any situation, by using bricks or any kind of stone 
for keeping up the mould, and covering the surface with tiles 
or pebbles, or any sort of stone most convenient. This will 
not only be a great saving of labor in watering, but, if neatly 
done, will be a convenient mode of cultivating them, and the 
fruit may be gathered without any chance of treading on it. 
If a situation were provided, either with a natural spring or 
stream of water upon the top of such a bank, it might, with 
little trouble, be made to irrigate the beds, when in bloom, or 
the fruit swelling ; and if let off' when nearly ripe, the reflec- 
tion of the sun, if the bank sloped towards the south, would 
be such as not only to give a high flavor to the fruit, but also 
very much to accelerate its ripening. In such cases, where 
water cannot be got naturally, a pump, such as is described 
for the Chatham strawberry-beds, might be used. 

We have always considered a strawberry-garden to be a 
desideratum ; and the advantages gained would repay both the 



Mar.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



383 



expense and the trouble of its formation. It would be of 
great importance to have iv so constructed, that the beds 
might be supplied with plenty of water at the least possible 
expense. Either of the above methods would answer well, or 
if there be the convenience of a small island in a pond or 
piece of water, it would be an admirable situation for a straw- 
berry-garden, and would answer the purpose, provided that 
the surface was not too high above the level of the water. In 
such a situation, beds made in the common way would answer 
very well, as the roots of the plants would get down into a 
cool wet bottom, which they are fond of in summer. In win- 
ter, when they might probably suffer from being too long 
kept wet, the water might be let down to a lower level ; but 
if the plantations be annually made, this precaution would not 
be necessary. Strawberries may be secured from the attacks 
of birds by surrounding the compartment, where they are 
grown, with wattled hurdles, made close on purpose, or ren- 
dered so by drawing in a few branches in the places at which 
birds might penetrate, placing them upright like a fold, and 
then covering the whole top surface with netting, supported 
high enough to admit of getting conveniently to gather the 
fruit. The fruit of Alpine strawberries, and probably some 
of the other prolific sorts, may be retarded till late in the sea- 
son, by going over the plants in May, or when they come into 
blossom, and carefully cutting off all the bloom with a pair 
of scissars, preserving the leaves as much from injury as pos- 
sible ; this is repeated until towards the middle of J une, when 
more blossoms appear, and those are left to produce fruit, 
which they readily do until destroyed by the autumnal frosts. 



384 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



APRIL. 



PROTECTING THE BLOSSOMS OF FRUIT-TREES. 

The pruning and nailing of all fruit-trees being finished last 
month, many of the earlier kinds will now be coming into 
blossom, and in this precarious climate will, in many situa- 
tions, require protection from cutting winds, as well as from 
the effects of frosts, which of late years have cut off the crops 
of fruit while in their tender state ; and in many of the finer 
sorts of fruits, such as peaches, nectarines, &c., done much 
injury to the expanding shoots. Various have been the opi- 
nions of the propriety or impropriety of protecting trees, and 
as many plans have been recommended as there have been 
opinions advanced on the subject. The majority of practical 
gardeners, however, agree in the propriety of protecting, by 
some means or other, the blossoms and young shoots of all 
their tender trees. In situations, so happily placed as to ren- 
der shelter unnecessary, much labour and expense will be 
saved, and the trees upon the whole will be less injured, than 
by the most ingenious mode of covering that could be adopted. 
Upon a subject of so much importance, we will give the sub- 
stance of the different modes pursued with as much brevity as 
possible. 

The most simple and primitive mode is, that of cover- 
ing with fronts of ferns, spruce, or other branches, stuck in 
amongst the branches of the trees, and generally remain until 
all danger from frost is supposed to be past. This is done on 
a rational principle in Sweden, Denmark, and other parts of 
the north of Europe, to retard the blossom by excluding the 
rays of the sun, which often, at this early season, shine with 
great warmth throughout the day, by which the sap is set 
in motion and the flowers are induced to expand, while the 
nights follow wdth severe frosts, and either destroy the fer- 
tilizing pollen of the male parts of the fructification, or ren- 
der them unfit for their important offices, by which the chance 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



385 



of fruit is entirely destroyed ; the sap once set in motion, the 
young tender shoots push forth, and are destroyed by the 
frost, ^^'hich nightly follows. By retarding the motion of 
the sap ; by excluding the trees from the effects of sunshine at 
this early period, and detaining them, as it were, by appa- 
rently continuing the winter ; they are thus retarded, until the 
danger of frosts be past, and then allowed to break into bud 
and blossom, at a season more congenial to their natures. 
This principle has been acted upon in Scotland, and in some 
parts of England, to a considerable extent. Of all sorts of 
branches used for this purpose, we would recommend those of 
the common fern, Pteris aquluia, as being lighter, and there- 
fore not so liable to injure the buds by being blown against 
them with high winds. Bat we consider this plan objection- 
able, as it shades the bloom too much, and too constantly from 
the light, by which the buds are rendered weak, and the fruit 
produced often drops off in a premature state ; and it is pro- 
bable, that the crop would have been as good, had the trees 
been left to take their chance. 

Protecting with straw-ropes has been recommended in the 
Transactions of the Horticultural Society, and is performed 
by placing poles in front of the trees against the walls, at four 
or six feet apart, one end being fixed in the ground about a 
foot from the wall, and the other to the top of the wall with a 
nail. A quantity of straw or hay-ropes are then prepared, 
and passed from pole to pole, taking a turn round each all the 
length of the wall ; about eighteen inches above that, is placed 
another row of rope in a similar manner, and so on until all 
the length of the pole or height of the wall is completed. 

Protecting with nets is often practised, and was recom- 
mended by the late Mr. Nicol. The old nets used for protect- 
ing fruits from the attacks of birds, are hung over the trees 
sometimes doubled or trebled, according to the quantity to be 
had. In screening with nets of any kind, they are to remain 
on day and night, until all danger of frost be over. Nets are 
very good screens if properly put on ; they are generally put 
on in a very careless manner, without any seeming considera- 
tion of the actual cause. They are generally hung over close 
to the branches, the flowering-buds often sticking out beyond 



386 



niE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the nets, which of course derive no benefit from them. Instead 
of being hung up in so unmeaning a manner, they should be 
placed out at the distance of fifteen or eighteen inches from 
the walls, by means of sticks of that length placed with their 
but- end against the wall, and their other end either slit or 
having a natural fork to keep the net more steadily out ; and 
these placed at the distance of two or three feet apart. In 
putting on the nets they should be put on pretty tight at first, 
and their ends nailed close to the wail on all sides, then these 
sticks put in to lieep them from the wall, will tighten them up 
sufficiently to render them steady, that no wind can displace 
them. 

Nets made of woollen yarn are much better than any other 
sort of net, and may be made or purchased at a trifling ex- 
pense, and will last for many years. These nets are in gene- 
ral use in Scotland, and in some places in England. The 
advantage they have over nets made of flax or hemp is, that 
their meshes are rendered much smaller than they really are 
by the bristleness of the material, and its constant tendency to 
contract ; and by its disposition to attract moisture, such as 
cold dews and hoar-frost, protects the blossom, while a suffi- 
cient portion of light gets in to the trees. It may be ren- 
dered more or less close in texture by tightening or loosening 
it, according to circumstances. This simple contrivance was 
invented, in 1805, by two ladies in Perthshire, for their bro- 
ther's garden. Nets made of straw are used in the Dalkeith 
gardens, and of bass in the gardens of Sweden. 

Protecting the blossom with mats is a common method, 
but is very troublesome, and in the end expensive. Protect- 
ing by means of oil-paper frames is adopted in some places 
with success. These frames are made like common sashes, 
only very slight, and are covered with common printing paper 
of the cheapest quality, which after being pasted on, is painted 
over with boiled linseed-oil. These frames are placed in front 
of the trees, and made moveable by contrivances, which must 
vary according to circumstances. If the slope from the wall 
be considerable, a few frames must be made to fit the spaces 
at the ends. These frames are not put on until the blossoms 
are pretty well expanded ; till which time they are not very apt 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



387 



to suffer by hail-showers, fi-ost, &c. In this way, there is 
much less danger of rendering the blossoms delicate by the 
covering, than if it were applied at an earlier period. These 
frames, if taken care of, will last for many years, and will be 
useful for ripening melons, cucumbers, or protecting flowers, 
and many such purposes. 

The bad effects of frost in still weather, which may be said 
to fall perpendicularly, may be guarded against by fixing a 
temporary coping of boards to the top of the wall, so as to 
project a foot or a foot and a half over the trees, and may be 
removed when all danger of such frosts are over ; but these 
perpendicular frosts are less injurious than cutting fi'osty 
winds, which, while they prevail, to a certain degree, blast 
every species of vegetation. 

The most effectual guard against the ill effects of frost and 
winds, at this season, is canvas screens, recommended by 
Nicol, which, while they break the force of the winds, and 
sufHciently guard off the frost, do not prevent a sufficient 
quantity of light from penetrating to the trees. The cloth for 
this purpose should be very thin, like what is called bunting ; 
and that it may last the longer, and admit more light, it should 
be oiled. 

The screens may either be fixed in frames, or may be put up 
in single sheets, and be made to answer for one or for several 
trees, as they may happen to be placed on the wall. In either 
case, they should be placed clear of the tree, that is, about 
the distance of a foot at top, and eighteen inches at bottom. 
If in frames, they may be made to move in the manner of a 
common sash, between rafters, and may be double, as in win- 
dows, to go either up or down, in order to admit air. The 
rafters being made moveable, the whole may be removed or 
put up at pleasure, and if carefully dried, and packed up in a 
dry room, when not in use, will last many years. If the 
screens be made in sheets, they may be mounted upon rollers 
at the top of the wall, and lowered or taken up at pleasure ; 
but in this case, it is also necessary to have a set of slight 
rafters, or neat poles, laid against the walls at proper dis- 
tances, to prevent the wind from dashing the canvas against 
the ti*ees, the effects of which are too obvious to mention. 



388 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



These sheets may be of any convenient length, and made to 
cover one or more trees, as may be required. If the trees be 
pLanted according to their several kinds, as we have recom- 
mended, then the whole space may be covered with one or 
more pieces of this covering, and will be more convenient 
than if the trees were scattered about on different parts ot 
the walls. In using these screens in either of the above forms, 
the trees arc always to be exposed to the light and air, in 
good weather, through the day, covering only at night and 
in bad weather, applying them from the time the buds begin 
to open, till tlie fruit be fairlv set, or till all danger from the 
effects of frost be past. 

A frame for the protection of fruit-trees on walls has been 
invented by Mr. John Dick, gardener at Ballindean, in Perth- 
shire, which althou.c^h at first sight may appear rather intri- 
cate, yet will be easily understood by the accompanying sketch. 




JI'^.'V?"""''''^ ' * '■ • '/•'■ 




7Z 




C 




\^ ^ \3 I* i5 







It is made of thin semi-transparent canvass, about 36 inches 
broad. The edges and seams of the screen are bound with 
tape, and it runs on two wires placed at top and bottom of the 
frame, and kept tight by screws at the exti'cmities. 



Tllii FRUIT GARDEN. 



389 



I. 2.3.4. are the four corners of the wooden framt?, when 
joined together and fixed upon the wall. 

5. 5. arc wooden facings fixed on the front edge of the sides 
of the frame for tlie reception of the screen within them. 

6. 1. 1. 1. are similar facings on the top and hottom, but 
moveable on hinges, shewn at 1. 1. 1. for the convenience of 
putting the rings of the screen upon the iron wires 9. 9. 9. 9. 

7. 7. 7. are the breadths of the screen, strengthened by- 
slips of tape 2. 2. sewed upon the seams. 

8. 8. are the two upright pieces of wood, to which the screen 
is nailed, which slide under the facings 5. 5., and are secured 
by the hasps 3. 3. 3. 3. 

9. 9. 9. 9. are the iron wires on which the screen slides, by 
means of rings. 

4. 4. 4. 4. are thumb-screws, for tightening the wires and 
preventing them from relaxing. 

5. 5. 5. 5. are the rings upon the bottom wire. When the 
screen is adjusted, the lower facing i. 1. 1. is folded up to 
10, 10., and fastened with square buttons 6. c. 

II. 11. 11. 11. the plan of the wall and the bottom of the 
frame, with a semi-circular hole cut in the latter, sufficiently 
large to receive the stem of the tree, and thus to prevent the 
frame being fixed close to the wall. 

12. 12. 12. 12. the section of a side of the frame and of the 
wall. 

13. 13. are the top and bottom stops, to keep the screen in 
its place. 

14. is a piece of cloth loosely suspended between the wall 
and the upright stake 15, to receive the fruit that falls off the 
tree; the stake 15 is repeated at convenient distances in the 
frame. 

This frame has been tried in the gardens of the Horticul- 
tural Society, and found perfectly to answer. 

The sudden transition from cold to heat, which we expe- 
rience in the sultry hot sunny days of spring succeeding frosty 
nights, is the principal cause of the failure of crops of our 
finer fruits in the open air. The blossoms get frozen through 
the night, and the sun acting with all its power on them in 
the morning before they are at all thawed, destroys many, 



S90 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



md injui'es the rest. The effects of shading, of whatever sort, 
counteracts this evil less or more, as by it the frost may be 
prevented from injuring the blossoms ; or, when they have 
been affected, by shading them from the sun's rays, until they 
become gradually thawed. The frequent occurrence of this 
circumstance has led to the adoption of a very rational mode 
of cure, by thoroughly watering the blossom or young fruits 
with cold water, applied with a garden-engine, in the morning, 
before the sun shines upon them. If the blossom, or even the 
fruit, be discolored, this application of cold water recovers 
them ; but it is necessary, that this be done before the sun 
shines upon them. Sometimes one watering will not be enough 
to recover the parts affected, in such cases, it must be repeated 
two or three times, until every appearance of frost be gone, 
and the blossoms or fruit attain their proper color. The ope- 
ration of watering before sun-rise, in counteracting the frost, 
seems to produce its effects in a manner similar to the appli- 
cation of cold water to a frozen joint or limb, which is injured 
by the sudden application of warmth. This plan has been 
long adopted by the London nurserymen, when their plants 
have been affected by frost during the night, and is attended 
with the most marked success. Vegetables of any sort may 
be recovered by this application, and it should be attended to 
by the gardener both in spring and autumn. 



WATERING NEWLY-PLANTED FRUIT-TREES. 

Any of the fmit-trees that have been omitted to be headed 
down last month, should be done now as soon as possible, 
and all newly-planted trees attended to in regard to watering, 
which must be repeated as the state of the weather may re- 
quire. 



DESTROYING INSECTS ON FRUIT-TREES AND BUSHES. 

Insects of many species will now begin to make their ap- 
pearance ; therefore, to keep these intruders under, it is neces- 
sary to begin upon their first appearance, and continue dili- 
gently to watch their progi'ess during the season. Most ol 



yipr.l THE FRUIT GARDEN. 391 

them only live for one season, but their powers of reproduc- 
tion are so great, that no time should be lost in destroying 
them as they appear, or in removing all appearances of them 
in a yet imperfect state. That industrious naturalist, Leuwen- 
hoeck, by calculation discovered that two house-flies, a male 
and female, will, in three months' time, produce no less than 
seven hundred thousand of its species. The insects most in- 
jurious to the productions of the garden are : the red spider, 
{Acariis icllurius, of Linnaeus,) {Aphis lanigera,) or Ameri- 
can blight; the wasp {Vesha vulgaris, of Linn.) ; the ear- 
wig, {Forjicula auricularia) ; the bug, {Chnex)', the thrips, 
the chermes, the cabbage-moth {Phalcence oleracect)\ the 
gooseberry-moth {PhalcencB wavaria) ; the currant-moth {Pha- 
li^nce grossularice) ; and the codling-moth, very common on 
fruit-trees {Phalccnce pomonella)] the wood-louse {Omscus)', 
the earth-worm {Lumbricus) \ the slug {Limax)] and the 
snail (Helix) ; the ant (Formica) ; and caterpillars (Papi- 
Uo) ; the aphides, or green-fly, and grubs, or the larvas of the 
beetle (Scaraboeus) tribe. 

The destruction of these insects ought now to occupy our 
attention, and will be no difficult matter, if taken in time 
The red spider makes its appearance in dry hot weather, on 
peach, nectarine, and many other trees and plants; and, as 
Nicol observes, is always found on the under sides of leaves, 
but most often on rough downy leaves, where it is protected 
in its young state by the hair on the leaves. This, however, 
is not without an exception, for we find it also on leaves per- 
fectly smooth, and devoid of all covering. Its attacks are less 
frequent upon the apricot, than on most other fruit-trees. It 
is amonijst the smallest of the genus, and is not easily distin- 
guished without the assistance of the microscope. If the back 
of the leaf be viewed by the aid of that instrument, it will 
appear full of its webs, and if many abound on it, the leaf 
appears full of punctures, becomes discolored and brown on 
the upper surface, fades and falls oiW This insect is more 
troublesome in hot-houses than out of doors, and more in dry 
v^arm seasons, than in moist and cold ones. Water has been 
considered to be the only cure, and it must be used in con- 
siderable quantities. If the insect has got once established on 



S92 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Apt. 

the leaves, it is not mere sprinkling that will dislodge it ; it 
must have the water applied with force from the garden-engine, 
and that in a considerable quantity, and repeated twice each 
day, or oftener, first working the engine from the right hand 
side of the tree, and then from the left, so that no part of the 
leaves can escape a general washing. If this be properly at- 
tended to, it will not only keep the insect off altogether, but 
will di-ive it off, however strong it may be. It is of much 
consequence to the ti'ees that it be not allowed to gain a-head, 
for in that case, many of the leaves will fall off, or be unable 
to perform their functions, and consequently the tree must 
sufter a great check. The operation of washing should be 
performed in the evening, particularly as at that time the effects 
of the moisture will not be so soon lost ; but if there be any 
appearance of frost, it had better be done early in the morn- 
ing, before the sun has any effect upon the trees. 

The Acarifs holoserictis, or scarlet acarus, an insect simi- 
lar to the red spider, and belonging to the same genus, is 
equally destructive to fruit-trees, and is often by gardeners 
confounded with it. Water is the only cure for it, applied ia 
the same way as for the red spider. 

Wasps will be considered more fully, when we come to treat 
of their attacks upon ripe fruits. In the mean time, care 
should be taken to destroy every one that makes its appear- 
ance, for by destroying one at this season, a whole nest is 
thereby prevented from being formed. To promote their de- 
struction, an equal sum ought to be given to the destroyer of 
a queen wasp at this season, as for a nest in autumn. Nothinf ■ 
has been found to keep down this troublesome insect so effec- 
tually, as remunerating the operatives in and about the garden 
with so much money for each insect destroyed at this season, 
as well as for each nest when fully formed. 

Ear-wigs. — As the ear-wig retires during the day to hide in 
some hole, it may be caught by hanging bean-stalks, cut into 
short lengths, in various parts of the tree or plant that it in- 
fests, into which it is almost sure to go, and upon examining 
them they may be taken out and destroyed. They are very 
desti'uctive to flowers, more so than fruits, and are carefully 
sought after by the florist. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



S93 



The bug or coccus genus. — Of this genus there are several 
species, chiefly named from the plants on whicli they feed, 
such as the pine-bug, vine-bug, orange-bug, and peach-bug ; 
the tln-ee first are generally found in hot-houses, and will be 
noticed in the Forcing-garden. The bug found upon the 
peach should be brushed or rubbed off, and if that practice 
be persevered in, it will soon clear the trees of them. All 
washes and powders are to be considered merely as palliatives ; 
nothing will eradicate these insects equally to picking them off. ^ 

The Thrips genus consists of very small insects, which are 
sometimes very troublesome in melon and cucumber frames. 
Water dashed upon the leaves will di'ive them off, and fumiga- 
tions of tobacco may also be used. The shoots and leaves, 
which they attack, become shrivelled, brov/n, and pulverize 
between the fingers, as if they were burnt. They are curious 
insects when viewed through the microscope. They have four 
wings, and walk with the lower part of their body turned up- 
ward. 

The Chermes, is a genus very generally confounded with the 
aphis. It also inhabits the leaves and stems of plants, and 
by its punctures produces excrescences of various sizes and 
shapes, which generally contain the egg or immature insect in 
the larva state. Its destruction is similar to that of the aphis. 

The genus of PJialcencs, or moths. — Of these, the cabbage, 
gooseberry, currant, and codling-moths, are most destructive 
to garden productions ; and, in their caterpillar state, are found 
on the leaves of the plants, on which they feed, and from 
which they derive their name. In the latter part of summer 
they are to be picked off by the hand, or where the leaves are 
much eaten with them, may be gathered off and carried away. 
Young ducks, and otlier domesticated birds, will help to keep 
them down. 

Catching the winged insect is found to be the most effectual 
method of keeping under these insects. This is done by using 
a gauze net, which should not be above three or four feet in 
circumference, eighteen inches or more deep, and attached to 
a whalebone rim or hoop ; the handle should be six feet long ; 
with this net, a boy should be kept going round the garden, 
and when the insects, in their butterfly or moth state, are fly- 

3e 



394 



HE PRACTICAL (iAivoi^i^ER. 



[Apr. 



ing about, he can with Uttle difficulty catch and destroy them. 
Thus for every female destroyed in spring, or early in sum- 
mer, before they lay their eggs, we destroy many hundred 
caterpillars. 

The following ingenious method of catching winged insects 
in gardens, is recommended, in the Gardeners' Magazine, by 
Mr. John Wilson, of Welbeck Gardens, Notts. Take a com- 
mon hand-glass, the hexagonal or any other form will do. 

















1 t 




remove in the ape|c the whole or part of three of the panes 
(o b c), then take a second hand-glass, which must be of 
the same form as the first, and place it on the roof of the 
first, so that the sides of the one may coincide with, the sides 
of the other ; then all the interstices between the bottom of 
the one and the eaves of the other (at efg) must be stopped 
with moss, wool, or any suitable substance, 
which will prevent the entrance or exit of the 
flies. The bottom hand-glass must rest on 
three pieces of bricks to form 
an opening underneath. The 
appearance of the trap, when 
completed, is simply that of one hand-glass 
above another. 

Fragments of waste fruit are laid on the 
ground, under the bottom hand-glass, to attract 
the flies, which having once entered, never de- 
scend again to get out, but rise into the upper glass, and buzz 
about under its roof, till, fatigued and exhausted, they drop 
down, and are seen lying dead on the roof of the under glass. 
One of these traps placed conspicuously on the ground, before 
a fruit-wall or hot-house, acts a decoy. It is surprising to see 
the eagerness with w^hich all kinds of insects go to examine it, 
and seeing various kinds of their fellows within, they enter 
also, and flying upwards buzz through the open panes (a b c). 




THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



395 



and perish aUogether in the cavity between the two hand- 
glasses. 

The Wood-lov^se (Oniscus) is of retired habits, shunning the 
light and heat of the sun. It is easily caught by placing bun- 
dles of reeds, or bean-stalks, in which to shelter itself, like 
the ear-wig, which is already described. 

The Earth-worm {Lumhricus)^ the Slug (Llmax), and the 
Snail {Hchw), are all injurious to gardens, the former to gra- 
vel and gi*ass-walks and lawns, as well as to tender plants. 
The second extremely destructive to every species almost of 
vegetables, and the third to vegetables and fruits. The former 
are readily destroyed by watering the ground in which they 
inhabit with lime-water. The second and third are only to be 
subdued by carefully picking them up, and either destroying 
them, or carrying them to such a distance from the garden, 
that there will be little chance of their getting back. 

It is remarked of the common garden-snail, {Helex lior- 
iensiSf) that having once attacked a leaf or fruit, it will not 
begin on another until the first be wholly eaten. 

Ants {Formica). — This industrious species of insect is, in 
light sandy soils, often very abundant. Some say, that they 
eat and help to keep down the aphides ; at all events, wherever 
tlie one appears in any quantity, the other is sure soon to fol- 
low. They sometimes, however, commit sad depredations on 
ripe fruit, excavating the whole of the interior with such nicety, 
that it is not till the hand be put to pull the fruit, that the theft 
is discovered. Their nests may be destroyed by pouring hot 
water over them, or burning a quantity of straw or any light 
matter over them. If a piece of cord dipt in tar be tied round 
the stem of the tree, they will not ascend it. 

^^r. Wilmot's method of destroying ants, in the open garden, 
is, by taking a straight rod, such as the handle of a hoe or 
rake, and pushing it down two feet, so as to leave an open 
round hole of that depth, the ants will precipitate themselves 
into the hole, and from the smoothness of its sides be unable 
to get up. Once a day, some water may be poured into the 
hole, to drown what are there, and the round stick reinserted, 
so as to maintain the smoothness of its sides. This mode is 
known to several gardeners. Another mode is by placing 



396 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



saucers, with sweet or other oil, in difiercnt places, either in the 
open air, or in hot-houses, which will destroy ants, beetles, 
crickets, and other insects, the margin of the oil being sprinkled 
with a little sugar. 

Caterpillars, which arc the larvae or young of the papilio 
genus, are very destructive, and various means have been tried 
to destroy them. As their whole employment seems to be 
eating, when they meet with food that suits their palates, they 
are extremely voracious, and will soon leave leafless any plant, 
bush, or ti'ce, on which they begin their ravages. But nature 
has provided a wise restraint on their propagation by also 
forming other insects which keep them within due bounds. 
These insects deposit their eggs in the bodies of caterpillars : 
from these eggs proceed small maggots, which gradually devour 
the vitals of the animal in which they reside. When about 
to be transformed into a chrysalis, they pierce the skin of the 
caterpillar, spin their pods, and remain on the empty skin till 
they assume the form of flies, and escape into the air to per- 
form the same office to another unfortunate larva. But to 
man, there is room left to exercise his reason, in devising means 
for their destruction. Lime-water has been used, which will 
destroy a great part ; tobacco-water will destroy more ; but 
the most efficacious plan is to employ a few children in the 
garden for a few days to pick them up, and afterwards to de- 
stroy them. The garden-engine, used with the greatest force 
upon the bushes, will wash off' many of them, but picking we 
have always found the most certain in the end. 

In the Agricultural Journal of Bavaria, the following method 
is given for the destruction of caterpillars in an orchard: — 
Plant according to the size of the orcliard, from one to four 
plants of bird-cherry {Primus Padus) ; almost the whole of 
die caterpillars and butterflies within one or two hundred yards 
will resort to that plant. The appearance of the bird-cherry 
will be hideous, but the fruit-trees will be safe. 

The Aphides, or what is more generally known as the 
green fly, black fly, &c., two species of the same genus, may 
be destroyed by the same means. They are destructive, and 
annoy almost all sorts of fruit-trees, and many herbaceous and 
flowering plants. They attack the young tips of the tender 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



307 



wood, and, if not soon destroyed, will ruin tlic tree. Tliig 
insect is not so difficidt to eradicate as some of those already 
noticed. The funiii^ation of tobacco will completely destroy 
tlicm, and without in the least injuring the tree. In hot- 
houses, (he fumii^ation is easily performed, but upon the 
open wall, the task is more dillicult. However, as fumigation 
is found to be the most eflectual and expeditious mode, arrange- 
ments must be made to confine the smoke for a sullicient time 
near the trees to destroy them; for which purpose, s])read an 
oil-cloth over the tree or trees intended to be operated u})()n, 
which f isten closely round the edges, so as to prevent as small 
a fpiantity as j)ossible of the smoke from esca])ing; ap])ly the 
^)uoke at (lie bottom, it will asccMid (o (he (op of (he (re(\s, and 
if confined for a short time, will completely d(^slroy every 
aphis on the trees. After the fumigation, apply the garden- 
engine widi force, which will wash ofFall that have not already 
fall(Mi to the ground. It is of the utmost importance that this 
oi)eration be performed on the first discovery of the enemy, as 
at that time a less quantity of tobacco will be used, and the 
trees less injured. Where the convenience of oil-cloths is 
not to be had, then garden-mats, doubled or trebled, will an- 
swer the same pin-pose. The more eflectually to destroy them, 
and prevent any chance of those which have been stunned 
from again aj<cending the trees, dig the ground lightly at the 
bottom of the wall, which will bury every one of them. This 
operation is often performed with a })air of fumigating-bellows; 
but for extensive fumigations, we always prefer one or more 
small garden flower-pots, about siK inches in diameter, having 
a hole drilled through it, near the bottom, of about three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter, being sullicieutly largcMo admit 
the point of a i)air of common bellows. The tobacco, which 
should be either the strongest roll, or tobacco-paper, which 
can l)e pm chased at the tobacco-manufacturers for nuich less 
than the tobacco itself, should be put into the pot, in ((uaiitity 
depending on the size or number of trees to be fumigated ; or 
if the roll-tobacco be used, uiu'ol it, and tear the leaves into 
pieces, which will cause it to burn better; put this into the 
pot, and with it a portion of damp hay, or any strong dis- 
agreeable smelling herbs, such as tansey, 8cc. ; this will add to 



398 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the quantity of smoke, and the smoke of tobacco diffused along 
with it, will soon destroy all the aphides upon the trees. 
Choose a dull cloudy evening for this purpose ; but if the trees 
be badly infested, do not delay the operation on account of 
the weather, for it were better to burn an additional pound of 
tobacco than to allow the enemy a single day to gain strength. 
Small trees, or bushes, may be fumigated in this way, by 
throwing canvas, or oiled cloth, or mats, over them, and apply- 
ing the smoke in the same way. 

In regard to the cure of the Aphis lunigera, or American 
blight, the following method is recommended by Mr. James 
Dann, gardener to the Earl Mann CornwaUis, at Linton 
Place : 

The method which he pursues is, invariably, first to scrape 
off with a blunt instrument, all lichens, and loose or rotten 
bark from the stems and branches, tlien pare off* the edges of 
the cankered holes, and other excrescences, where it is pos- 
sible for the aphis, or any other insect, to lodge in ; and with 
a woodman's racer, gouge, or chisel, scoop out all the cankered 
and rotten wood, until a clean live surface be found at the 
bottom of each cankered part. Wanton lacerations are, how- 
ever, by no means recommended. 

By adopting the above method, and using the under-men- 
tioned medicament, INIr. Dann engages to bring sound wood 
in the stems and branches of fruit-trees in general ; though 
after the operation of cleansing the wounded parts, there may 
not be more than one inch of sound bark to carry on the cir- 
culation of the sap, provided the stems or branches be pro- 
perly supported. 

Take two quarts of vegetable tar, half an ounce of corro- 
sive sublimate, half an ounce of spirit of salt, and one gill ol 
spirit of hartshorn. 

The sublimate must be pounded in a marble mortar, add- 
ing the spirit of salt by degrees to dissolve the mercury ; next 
add the hartshorn, rubbing altogether until completely mixed. 
Provide an earthen glazed pipkin, and put in the poisonous 
liquid ; add the tar by degrees, constantly stirring it to prevent 
its running over. Then take an old painter's brush, and 
cover all the wounded parts with the mixture, which will ad- 



Apr.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 399 

here and give way to nothing but the gi'owing wood and bark. 
It is necessary to use earthenware, as the mercury will corrode 
metal or wood. 

Wherever this mixture is applied, it will infallibly desti'oy 
the aphis, or any other insect, and prevent emigrants from 
infested trees lodging on the wounded parts, or feeding on the 
juices of the young growing bark, owing to its poisonous 
quality. No person need be afraid of any mischief to any 
domestic animal, as the noxious smell and taste of the tar 
prevent every danger. 

Grubs, which are the larvae of beetles, are very destructive 
to the roots of plants. Of this genus the most common is the 
scarabccus melolentha, the eggs of which species are deposited 
in the ground by the parent insect, which, from its form, is 
well calculated for burrowing. From each of these eggs pro- 
ceeds a whitish worm, which is destined to live in the earth 
in that form for four years, and in that time undergoes various 
changes of its skin until it assumes its chrysalid form. These 
creatures, in immense numbers, work beneath the turf in rich 
meadows, devouring the roots of the grass to such a degree, 
that the turf may be rolled up almost with as much ease, as if 
it had been cut with the spade or turfing-iron ; and underneath, 
the soil appears turned into a soft mould for about an inch in 
depth. In this, the grub lies in a curved position on its back, 
the head and tail uppermost, and the rest of the body buried 
in the mould. Such are the devastations committed by the 
grubs of the cock-chaffer, that whole fields of gi*ass, in the 
summer season, become in a few weeks as dry and brittle as 
withered hay, occasioned by these gi'ubs devouring the roots, 
and destroying all those fibres which fastened it to the gi'ound. 
The larvae having continued four years in the ground, undergo 
another change, to effect which, they dig deep into the ground, 
sometimes five or six feet, and there spin a smooth case, 
in which they change into a chrysalis. They remain in this 
state all the winter, till about the month of February, when they 
become perfect beetles, but with their bodies quite soft and 
white. In INIay, their parts are hardened, and then they come 
forth out of the earth. This accounts for our not finding the 
perfect insect in the ground. This species of beetle should be 



400 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



destroyed wherever it appears, as the means of lessening its 
depredations. When it appears in fields, the ground should be 
fallowed, and, by these means, bring the grubs to the surface, so 
that crows, and other birds can get at them, of which they 
■ are remarkably fond. In gardens, they often occur, and should 
be picked up, and destroyed the moment they are detected. 
Indeed, every species of grub, which is turned up in digging, 
should be destroyed. 

WATERING NEWLY-PLANTED BUSHES. ' 

Currants, gooseberries, and raspberries, which were planted 
last month, or in autumn, should be attended to with water ; 
and where any of these remain unplanted, it should now be 
done, observing, in planting them, to water, or puddle-plant 
them, as already directed. 

PLANTING STRAWBERRIES. 

Strawberries should be planted the beginning of this montn, 
if wanted, and the established plants cleared of all weeds, 
and the earth often stirred up about them. When strawberries 
are planted at this season, observe to puddle the roots well 
before planting, and water afterwards. 

Water the beds of fruiting plants frequently, in dry weather, 
towards the latter end of the month, when they begin to ad- 
vance for bloom ; for if they be not supplied with that article, 
the fruit will be smaller, and of less abundant production. 

DISBUDDING, OR RUBBING OFF THE USELESS BUDS OF WALL- 
TREES. 

About the latter end of this month, begin to look over 
apricot, peach, and nectarine trees ; rub off the new advancing 
ill-placed fore-right shoot-buds, and other irregular gi'owths, 
and all the young shoots which are useless ; that is, all the 
shoots which are produced directly fore-right, on the fi'ont of 
the branches should be rubbed closely off, as well as those 





E'^Turra 



Lvndvn.I'Ubluhrd //i T/wrnas Kelly. Fa/frnon<-r How. 



J- 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



401 



which arise in parts of tlie tree where they are evidently not 
wanted, and are situated in places where they cannot be regu- 
larly trained to the wall. 

But it must be observed, that all regularly placed side- 
shoots and leaders, and such others, which are properly situ- 
ated for laying in, must be left; and, when of a proper 
length, should, in the two succeeding months, be trained to 
the wall in a regular manner. 

DISBUDDING VINES ON THE WALLS. 

The vines against the walls should be looked over about the 
end of this month ; they will, by that time, if a forward sea- 
son, be advancing in shoots, and some of them showing fruit. 
The dressing or disbudding at this early season is to be per- 
formed with the finger and thumb, rubbing the shoots closely off. 

Previously to the training of any tree, for the purpose of 
obtaining the greatest quantity of fruit, its mode of bearing 
should be first taken into consideration, and the object of the 
cultivator must necessarily be to obtain the greatest quantity 
of bearing wood, of an equiil and proper distribution. 

The vine is a creeping plant, throwing out the most luxu- 
riant shoots at the extremity of its branches, where they are 
laid horizontally or perpendicularly. In training this tree, it 
is necessary to keep three principal objects in view : first, to 
cover the space allotted to it with fruit-branches, leaving room 
for both ripening the fruit, and the branches that are to bciu* 
fruit the succeeding year : secondly, to take ofl' the top of 
each branch bearing fruit at the second or third joint above the 
uppermost bunch, except such branches as are destined to 
bear fruit the next year, which latter must be exposed, and 
by no means topped ; for if the sap be checked in these, many 
of their buds will burst the same season, and the fruit of next 
year be destroyed: thirdly, to take off all laterals as they 
arise, and any shoots which, though laid in for fruit, turn out 
unproductive, that the whole strength of the tree may be pro- 
perly applied to the maturation of the fruit, and the wood for 
succeeding crops. 

By early regulating the vines, the grapes will advance freely 
in their growth, become larger, more regular, ripen sooner, 

3 F 



402 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



and be in gi'eater perfection, than when the vines are suffered 
to run into confusion; besides, the work can be performed 
much sooner, and with much greater correctness, regularity, 
and beneficial eflect, both to the vines and prosperity of the 
fruit. 

GRAFTING TREES. 

Grafting may yet be performed, if required. 

The sorts which will yet succeed, are some of the late kinds 
of apples, pears, and plums; but they must be grafted the 
beginning of the month ; for they will not succeed well, if 
done later. 

NEWLY GRAFTED TREES. 

Newly-grafted trees should now be often looked over, to see 
if the clay keep close about the grafts ; it being apt to crack, 
and sometimes fall off. When this is found to be defective, 
let the old clay be taken off, and add some new in its stead. 

All those shoots, which rise below the graft, must be taken 
off as they are produced : these, if permitted to remain, would 
rob the graft of nourishment, and prevent it shooting fi'eely. 

NEWLY BUDDED TREES. 

Look also over newly budded trees, that is, those that were 
budded last summer ; they will now begin to advance in their 
first shoots, proceeding immediately from the inoculated bud, 
which, having remained dormant from its insertion in the 
stock last summer till this season, will each push forth one 
strong shoot, to form the beginning of the future new tree. 
Examine, therefore, the young shoots, and look with a carefiil 
eye for insects, which sometimes attack them, if very dry wea- 
ther. I f the leaves curl up, insects are the cause of it ; a^id, 
if not prevented, will spoil the shoots in their first growth. 
Let the curling leaves be carefully picked off ; it will prevent 
the mischief spreading farther ; and fiimigate with tobacco- 
smoke, or wash the tips of the shoots with tobacco-liquor, 
soap, and sulphur, as advised for peach-trees, &c. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 



403 



M A Y. 



THINNING WALL-FRUITS. 

The thinning of fruits, when they set too thickly on the 
trees, is a very important branch of fruit-tree culture, and it 
cannot be denied, that it is by many too little attended to. 
That all sorts of fruits would be benefited by being properly 
thinned is evident; even the most common gooseberry and 
sti-awberry would be increased, both in size and flavor, how 
much more so, then, peaches, nectarines, grapes, and apricots; 
and, although seldom practised, plums, cherries, and apples, 
would be improved by the process. In favorable seasons, 
peaches, nectarines, and apricots, set in clusters upon the trees, 
and, if not removed, would push one another ofF; but this 
natural effort would much exhaust the trees ; it is better, there- 
fore, to commence the operation of thinning soon after these 
fruits are set, and it should be performed with a pair of sharp- 
pointed scissars, thinning out those that are most crowded, 
and reducing each cluster of fruit, or where they are set so 
thick as to touch one another, to a reasonable extent. This ope- 
ration, however, must not be completed at this early period, 
as circumstances may occur, of which we have no fore-know- 
ledge, that may cause a great portion of the crop to drop off ; 
reserving for future thinnings in June, and, in some cases, a 
final thinning in the beginning of July. As a general prin- 
ciple to be kept in view at each thinning, the largest and best- 
formed fruit, and such as are most favorably placed, should 
be retained ; all others should be taken off', unless upon such 
shoots, or parts of the tree, where the crop may be less abund- 
ant. In such cases, a few of the less handsome fruit may be 
left, "which will improve, as they advance towards perfection. 
On healthy and fully established trees, the crop should be left 
in a greater quantity ; but upon sickly and newly-planted ones, 
and upon sickly or weak shoots, even of healthy trees, ihcy 
should be thinned to a greater extent. No general rule can 



m 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Ma?/. 



be laid down, as to the distance that each fruit should be 
allowed to stand from each other ; a variety of circumstances 
are always to be taken into consideration, such as the kind of 
fruit, the size which it attains, the health and state of the tree, 
&c. ; but it is always better to thin well, as the ultimate bulk 
of fruit will not be decreased, gaining individually what is 
lost in number, and the flavor will, consequently, be improved. 

DISBUDDING WALL-TREES. 

By disbudding is meant a species of pruning, which is per- 
formed upon fruit-trees with good effect, and if judiciously 
performed, will, in a great degree, obviate the necessity of 
much winter-pruning ; while, at the same time, it disburdens 
the trees of all superfluous shoots and leaves, and admits of a 
greater share of nourishment being afforded, both to the fruit, 
and also to the shoots which are laid in, for the purpose of 
forming the tree, and producing future crops. In performing 
this operation, some discrimination is necessary, so that no 
fruit-buds be displaced, and that a sufficient number of wood- 
buds be retained, and those placed in a proper position. All 
superabundant buds are to be rubbed off" with the thumb, when 
they have attained the length of one or two inches, by which 
time a proper selection can be made. In regard to apples, 
pears, plums, and cherries, which produce their fruit upon 
spurs, these should not be disbudded until the young shoots 
have completed two or three joints, at which time they will be 
readily distinguished from the spurs, which only form a knot 
furnished with a few leaves, and show no disposition to form 
a shoot. Peaches may be operated upon sooner than most 
other trees, as they, for the most part, produce their fruit 
upon the young shoots of last year's growth, and seldom, 
under good management, upon spurs. In proceeding in this 
operation, every part of the tree should be regularly gone over, 
and all fore-right wood displaced, leaving upon each shoot of 
last year's growth the uppermost, undermost, and one or two at 
regular distances between them, according to the length of the 
shoot, the strength of the tree, and other circumstances. 
Young trees, while in a state of training, should have their 



May,\ 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



405 



leading shoots carefully disbudded, as, at this period of their 
growth, a judicious arrangement of their shoots will tend to 
the formation of both elegant and healthy trees, this being the 
time when they can be modelled to whatever mode of training 
the cultivator may choose to adopt. 

Upon this subject, Nicol justly observes, apples and pears, 
trained in the fan manner, may be treated very much as above ; 
always observing to leave more shoots than may ultimately be 
necessary to lay in, for fear of accidents ; that is, of trees in 
training. Trees that have filled the spaces, and are in full 
bearing state, may be disbudded of most wood-buds that 
appear, except in places too thin, or the leading shoots of in- 
ferior branches. Wood-buds on the old spurs are always to 
be displaced, as only tending to enlarge them unnecessarily. 

Apple and pear-trees trained horizontally, must be treated 
in a different manner from the above. The leading stem of 
trees yet in training, is the object of most particular care. The 
buds on the last year's shoot, shortened as directed in Ja- 
nuary, must all be retained for fear of accidents, except those 
placed fore-right, till they have sprung a few inches, and it be 
seen whether enough will spring, for laying in right and left, 
of which to form the tree. Generally speaking, on the last 
year's shoot of the leading stem, the uppermost bud, the upper- 
most pair, the undermost pair, and two intervening pairs oi 
buds, should be retained, if the stem push so many ; otherwise, 
one intervening pair. All wood-buds on the horizontal branches 
of trees thus trained, except the leading one, should be dis- 
placed. 

GENERAL CARE OF WALL-TREES. 

Wall-trcos will now require great attention, both as regards 
protecting them from cold cutting winds, and removing the 
protections of every sort, as soon as the state of the weather 
will admit of it. It is at this time, that they are injured by 
being protected at all, by allowing the branches, or other cover- 
ing, to remain longer on them than is really necessary, which 
draws up the young shoots in a weak and tender state, and 
unfits them to stand the full exposure to the atmospheric air, 



406 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May, 



and sunshine. Coverings, of whatever kind, should not be 
taken off all at once ; they should be removed by degrees, and 
the young shoots hardened progressively to the full exposure 
of the air. Insects of all sorts will now be in full strength, 
and care must be taken to keep them down, which, if taken in 
time, will save much tiouble and expense. Pick off all 
curled and deformed leaves of the trees as they appear, and in 
so doing, take care not to injure the young shoots. Supply 
all fruit-trees plentifully with water, if the season be dry, and 
use the garden-engine over all the walls every afternoon, or 
every alternate one, with sufficient force to dislodge the in- 
sects, and wash off all dust and filth that may have gathered 
on the leaves. If there be appearance of frost, prefer the 
morning, before the sun acts fully on the trees ; and after frosty 
nights, which we often have about the beginning of this month, 
use the engine before sun-rise, that is, before the rays of heat 
strike fully upon the trees, on eastern and southern aspects, for 
the purpose of removing the effects of frost. Continue to sup- 
ply all newly-planted fruit-bushes with water at their roots, 
and occasionally over their branches. 

SUMMER-PRUNING CURRANTS, GOOSEBERRIES, AND RASPBERRIES. 

On this subject, Nicol observes, it is not a very common 
practice to summer-prune currants and gooseberries, but it 
is essential to their welfare, and to their production of fine 
fruit, if judiciously performed. It also, in a gi'eat measure, 
tends to prevent the ravages of the caterpillar. No doubt a 
moderate degree of shade is conducive to the swelling of tlie fruit 
to a full size ; but if, by too much shade, it be excluded from the 
sun and air, it will be wanting in flavor ; therefore the hearts 
of the plants should be regularly thinned of the cross and 
water shoots ; and all suckers rising about the roots ought to 
be carefully twisted off, as they appear. If part of the shoots 
that rise about the stools of raspberries were twisted off, or 
otherwise destroyed, at this time also, it would let in the air 
about them ; the shoots left for bearing next year would be- 
come stronger, and the fruit now upon the plants increase 
in size. 



Ma?/.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



407 



NEWLY-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 

About the latter end of this month, look over all grafted 
ti-ees, and let the clay be taken off, and at the same time, let 
the bandages be loosened. 

All the shoots that rise from the stocks below the grafts, 
must be immediately rubbed off, that the grafts may not be 
robbed of their nourishment. 

Let the same rule be observed with trees budded last sum- 
mer, keeping the stock clear of all shoots, which would draw 
away great part of the nourishment from the bud. 

WATERING STRAWBERRIES. 

Strawberries should now be regularly and abundantly sup- 
plied with water twice or thrice a-week, if dry weather, and 
continued until the fruit begins to change color, when it should 
be left off, unless in extremely dry seasons, when it may be 
necessary to continue it, not only to swell off the fruit, but 
also to keep the plants alive ; for although strawberries, in 
their natural habitats, receive, or seem to require little water, 
yet those which have been fed, as it were, upon that element 
hitherto, will miss the want of it, if suddenly deprived of it. 
The London and Edinburgh market-gardeners, who are and 
ought to be the best managers of these matters, give very 
abundant supplies of water to their strawberries, and incur a 
very considerable expense in the performance ; but they find, 
that they are eventually paid by abundant crops, which, with- 
out that nourishment, would have been scanty and precarious. 
As the fruit begins to ripen, it should, if the weather be not 
very scorching, be discontinued, otheiT/ise the flavor of the 
fruit will be injured. If they be planted in lines, or in such 
a manner, as the fruit is liable to be spoiled by the mould 
being splashed over them, either by watering or heavy rains ; 
they should be protected by laying long clean wheaten straw 
carefully along the sides of the rows ; or, which is better, 
common bricks, which, while the fruit lies clean upon them, 
their ripening is considerably accelerated by the reflection of 



408 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May. 



heat from the bricks, and the bricks, as well as the straw, will 
prevent the drought from injuring the roots. In wet seasons, 
we have found great benefit in laying rods, or pea-stakes, along 
the sides of the rows for the fruit to lie upon, which keeps 
them clean, and allows a free circulation to pass under them, 
which will prevent their rotting, and elevate them above the 
attacks of slugs, which prey very much upon them in such 
seasons. About the end of this month, let all the runners be 
cut off, unless where wanted for plants for young plantations. 
Keep the ground clear of weeds by frequent hoeing and raking. 

Strawberries cultivated, as already described, either in a 
separate strawberry-garden, or on the sides of banks, should 
be supplied plentifully with water, by either of the modes 
already laid down. If in beds witli trenches between them, 
the trenches should be kept pretty full of water, by either turn- 
ing in a natural stream, or pumping a quantity once or twice 
a-day, as they may require. 

Mulching, which is covering the ground between the rows 
with straw or litter, or by placing slates, tiles, or bricks, so as 
to cover the surface of the ground between the rows, evapora- 
tion will be considerably diminished, and less water will, con- 
sequently, be required to keep the roots moist, while by adopt- 
ing either of these materials the fruit will lie dry and clean. 
Coal ashes are not unfrequently used for this purpose, which 
to a certain degree are beneficial, particularly in cold strong 
clayey soils ; but on light sandy soils, their tendency to render 
the soil still lighter, may be attended with injurious effects. 
Where the soil is not already over rich, a top-dressing of rotten 
dung laid between the rows will be of use, both for lessening 
the process of evaporation, as well as affording nourishment to 
the crop. 



June,'\ 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



409 



JUNE. 



NEWLY PLANTED TREES, 

Examine all fruit-trees that were planted last autumn, win- 
ter, and spring ; in particular standard-trees ; and see that they 
be well secured, so that they cannot be rocked about by the 
wind. 

This should be duly attended to, but particularly such 
standard-trees which have tall stems and large heads ; for it 
must evidently appear, that those trees which are secured will 
make stronger shoots than those that are not ; likewise take 
care to keep the earth well closed about the bottom of their 
stems, that the sun or wind may not have access that way, to 
dry the earth near the roots. 

Attend to the young wall and espalier-trees, which were 
headed down in the spring ; they will have made some strong- 
shoots, and the said shoots should now be nailed to the wall, 
both to train them in regular order, and to secure them from 
the power of the wind. 

Water must still be given in very dry weather, to newly- 
planted trees, in particular to those which were planted late in 
the spring. 

Considerable advantaf^e would be derived in continuincr some 
mulchy dung on the ground over the roots, to keep out the 
parching heat and drying winds. 

TIIINxNING STONE-FRUITS. 

All kinds of stone-fruits should now be again gone over, at 
least twice during this month, that a further thinning of their 
over-abundant crops may take place ; reserving, however, tlie 
final thinning till next month {which see). 

ESTABLISHED APPLE, PEAR, PLUM, AND CHERRY-TREES. 

These trees will by this time have made strong shoots, both 
against walls and espaliers, and where this work was not done 

3 G 



410 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June, 



in May, it will he necessary carefully to look over them, and 
to regulate them. 

They will now require great care, and must be properly 
cleared of all unnecessary shoots. All luxuriant, fore-right, or 
ill-growing shoots must be taken off close, and likewise such 
as are produced in parts where they cannot regularly be trained 
in. All that are not absolutely wanted to produce a succession 
of wood, or to fill up vacant spaces, must be entirely cleared 
away. 

In managing these trees, it must be observed, that although 
it is not necessary to leave so large a supply of young wood as 
for peaches, &c., and those trees which bear their fruit on the 
one-year-old shoots, yet such a supply is necessary to be left 
every year as may come round in succession, to fill up those 
spaces where old useless wood may, from time to time, be 
pruned off. 

Sometimes the branches of cherry-trees begin bearing at one 
and two years, those of the apple and plum at two and three, 
and those of the pear not till they are four and sometimes five 
years old. Some branches bear at three years, but it is very 
seldom. After the branches of these trees have once begun to 
bear, no further necessity exists of leaving so general a supply 
of young wood, for they will continue to increase in bearing 
for many years afterwards ; for which reason, when they are 
well furnished with good wood, it will only be proper to leave 
here and there, in every tree, a few of the best shoots. This 
work must not be now omitted, for it is possible some may be 
wanted to train in, in some part of the trees, at the winter 
pruning. In any parts of the trees, where there appears to 
be an absolute want of a supply of young wood, fail not to 
leave a sufficient number of those shoots which grow well and 
fit for training. 

It is always the surest method to leave, in a moderate way, 
a sufficiency of young wood where it is apprehended it may be 
wanted, that there may be a choice in -winter pruning, to fill 
up any vacancy occasioned by dead wood, &c. and it will be 
easy to clear away that which is not then wanted. At the 
principal pruning time, it is always a good maxim to leave 
plenty of young wood to choose fi'om, and the branches which 



June. I 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



411 



are left should now be fastened to the walls, pales, or espa- 
liers, rcgulaidy, each shoot at its full length without shortening. 

APRICOT AND PEACH-TREES, &i 

If the apricot, peach, and nectarine-trees were not looked oveY 
.ast month, in the young shoots of the year, to give the requi- 
site regulation of summer pruning and training, it must now 
be done. 

This work should be commenced in the beginning of the 
month, and followed with the utmost diligence till the whole 
be completed ; for were these trees suffered to remain long in 
the wild confused manner, that they naturally grow into at 
this season, it would not only prove detrimental, in a great 
degree, to the trees, but would also very much retard the 
growth and ripening of their fi'uit. 

Therefore let these trees be gone over, taking care to clear 
away all ill-grown and ill-placed shoots ; for this will not only 
strengthen, but make more room to train the useful shoots in 
a proi)er manner to the wall. 

In doing this, select a plentiful supply of all the best gro^\ 
ing well-placed shoots, to retain in all parts where they can 
be trained in regularly ; prune out all the irregular placed fore- 
right slioots, and others not eligibly situated for regular train- 
ing, as well as all rank luxuriants of remarkably vigorous 
growth : cut out, also, any ill-formed, thick, spongy, and 
other improper and apparently useless wood, and where the 
general shoots are over-abundant, cut away the worst of the 
iuperfluous, in a regular manner, so as to leave plenty of the 
best in all parts of the tree ; and let all the others, as above, 
be pruned quite close to the places whence they originate. 

At this season, it will be proper to observe, that wliere there 
are any vacant spaces, it is now a most eligible time to begin 
to fnrnish the requisite supply of wood in such parts, the same 
year, by pinching or pruning short some contiguous young 
shoots. 

For example, if two, three, or more branches may be wanted 
to fill the vacancy, and suppose there be only a young shoot 
produced in or near that place, it will, in such case, be proper, 



412 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June. 



in the first or second week of the month, to shorten the said 
shoot or shoots, to three, four, or five eyes, according to their 
strength : and by this practice each shoot will send forth two, 
three, or perhaps four lateral shoots the same season, to fill 
the vacancy. 

The above method of shortening the young shoots of the 
same season, may likewise be practised on young trees, to 
procure a supply of branches to form the head of a proper ex- 
pansion as soon as possible. 



STRAWBERRIES. 

The strawberry-beds must be duly supplied, in dry weather, 
with water, as the plants will now be in blossom, and the fruit 
setting and advancing in growth. 

The waterings should, in a very dry time, be repeated every 
two or three days, from the beginning till about the middle of 
the month ; for about that time, the principal crop of most 
kinds of strawberries will be about setting and swelling to their 
respective sizes : and while the fruits are taking their growth, 
the plants should be encouraged, by keeping the earth in the 
beds always moist in a middling degree, and the advantage 
will plainly appear in the size, as well as the quality of the 
fruit. 



DESTROYING INSECTS. 

Continue assiduously to destroy every species of insect on 
their first appearance, particularly the red spider and gi'ccn 
fly, which, if dry weather take place, will be in great abund- 
ance ; the garden-engine and fumigation will, as already no- 
ticed, keep both under. 



BUDDING. 

This operation may be commenced on some trees this month, 
and continued until August. {See next month.) 



June,] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



413 



VINES. 

Vines on the walls should be attended to, and regidarly 
pruned, and their shoots laid in, according to circumstances. 
Few insects injure the vine on the open wall. The red spider 
is its greatest enemy, but it may always be kept under by a 
plentiful supply of water, administered with the engine. The 
ihrips sometimes attack them on the walls, but most generally 
on those leaves or shoots, which have been injured by frost. 
Fumigation will rid the vine of this enemy, as well as of the 
Hy. Some of the turtle insect sometimes visit the vine, but 
we have never observed them commit any other injury, than 
causing a mucilaginous substance to flill on the leaves, which, 
in a certain degi-ee, is injurious to them. They are to be de- 
stroyed by being rubbed off, which, on account of their size, 
is no difficult matter. The species of this genus, which visit 
the vine, are the Coccus hesperidum and Coccus ciadonidum. 



PRESERVING FRUITS FROM BIRDS. 

Cherries on wall, and standard trees should be protected 
from birds, by means of nets. They should be put on walls, 
as recommended for screening the blossoms, that is, so far as 
regards setting them out properly with sticks from the wall. 
Standard-trees may be secured by covering the top of the tree 
with a large net, and securing it at the bottom. 

Cherries are sometimes cultivated in an inclosure by them- 
selves on dwarf-standards, and in this way they are easily pre- 
served from the attacks of birds, by securing them by means 
of nets. In some parts of the Netherlands, regular cherry- 
gardens are formed, and are secured from birds by similar 
means. In some parts of England, cherry-grounds are en- 
closed with high wire fences, sufficiently fine to prevent the 
birds from getting in, and secured over the top by means of 
large nets, which are supported sufficiently high to allow the 
trees to attain tlicir desired height; underneath these trees, 
which are regularly trained dwarf-standards, strawberries, 
currants, and gooseberries, are planted, which, being pro- 
tected from birds, remain long on the plants, after all the fruits 



414 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June. 



of the same sorts are over in the garden, with the exception of 
those which are matted on north walls. 

Strawberries should now be protected from birds by means 
of nets. If planted in the common way, in open quarters of 
the garden, they may be preserved from them by spreading 
nets over the beds, and supporting them from the gi'ound by 
small sticks, about a foot or eighteen inches high ; these to 
be taken off and replaced after each gathering. This is at- 
tended with some trouble, but it often happens that small birds 
and wood-pigeons will destroy the crop, unless some such 
means be taken for their preservation. 

In damp weather, look over the strawberry-beds, and pick 
up the slugs, which will be otherwise very destructive to them. 
Net up such raspben'ies, currants, and gooseberries, as are 
planted on south walls for early crops, for they are more likely 
to be destroyed by birds than they otherwise would be, if 
plenty of ripe fruit were in other parts of the garden ; without 
this precaution, a great disappointment may arise, in having 
those fruits fit for the table at an earlier season, than that at 
which the principal crops come in. 

SUMiMER PRUNING SMALL FRUITS. 

The summer pruning of gooseberries, currants, and rasp- 
berries, has been hitherto little attended to, although it has 
been found highly useful. At this season, all young wood, 
that would otherwise be left on the bushes until winter, and 
then pruned off, should be displaced ; if done in May, or the 
beginning of this month, it will benefit the plants, as well as 
the fruit ; the nourishment, which it would require to support 
them, will then be thrown into the useful shoots and fruit. A 
free admission will also be obtained for the sun and air to im- 
prove the fruit, and when ripe will be gathered with greater 
comfort, particularly the gooseberries. The trees on walls, or 
trained on espaliers, should also be examined, and thinned cf 
all useless wood ; and such as is really useful trained into the 
wall, or rail. The bushes, on the appearance of the P/ia- 
Iconce gross ularia, the Ap/iis ribes, and the caterpillars of the 
Papilio genus, should be well scourged with the garden- 



June.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



415 



engine, in which lime-water or water alone may be used. But 
no method is so effectual, as picking them off with the hand, 
as already recommended. 

WATERING WALL-TREES. 

Continue to operate with the garden-engine on all kinds ot 
fruit wall-trees, except such as are advancing to maturity, and 
apply the water with force for the destruction of insects, and 
for refreshing the trees : this operation should now be always 
performed in the evening, that the effects of the water may 
act for a longer time upon the trees. 

The expense of this operation in most gardens, where 
water has not been laid on, as recommended in the early part 
of this work, and practised by Hay and other eminent garden 
architects, deters many from this useful branch of fruit-tree 
culture; and others neglect it, thinking that what the trees 
receive fr om rains and dews should be considered as sufficient. 
Let those persons, however, for a moment reflect, that a tree 
planted against a wall and constrained to it often in the most 
unnatural position, deprived of the perpendicular dews and 
rains by projecting copings, and exposed to a powerful sun, 
the rays of which are reflected from the wall, so as consider- 
ably to increase the temperature above that of a tree growing 
as a standard, must require to be supplied with water arti- 
ficially, with as much reason, and on the same principle, as 
those plants which are reared under glass. 



41G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jtdy. 



JULY 



BUDDING. 

Almost all the more valuable kinds of fruit-trees are in- 
creased in this way, as well as many shrubs and plants. 

This is one of the methods by which the different aj^proved 
varieties of many kinds of fruit and other trees can, with cer- 
tainty, be continued and multiplied; for, though their seeds 
readily grow and become trees, yet from the seeds or kernels 
of the finest varieties of fruit, not one tree out of a hundred 
produces any like the original, and but very few that are good : 
so variable are seedling fruit-trees, and many others ; but the 
trees or stocks so raised, being budded or grafted with the 
proper sorts, the buds or grafts produce invariably the same 
kind of tree, fruit, flowers, &c. 

This mode of propagation is particularly useful for peaches, 
nectarines, apricots, plums, and cherries ; the three former of 
which succeed better by budding than grafting, and are usually 
worked upon plum- stocks raised from seed, and sometimes by 
suckers, layers, and cuttings. They are also often budded 
upon their own stocks, or such as have been raisjd from the 
kernels of these kinds of fruit ; but they are commonly more 
strong and durable when budded upon plum-stocks. 

There are also other sorts, as plums and cherries, which 
are often propagated by budding as well as grafting : the 
cherry is, however, generally the most prosperous by the lat- 
ter method, as being more apt to gum and go off by budding 
These sorts, being of the same genus, grow well upon stocks 
of each other, but best upon their own stocks. 

Apples and pears are, likewise, capable of being propagated 
by budding as well as by grafting ; though, as t'ley grow freely 
by grafting, which is the most easy and expe itious n:ode, 
they are commonly propagated in that way. 

In short, most kinds of fruit-trees, and others, propagated 
by grafting, also succeed by budding. Grafting is, however, 
more adapted to some sorts, and budding to others. 



Juli/.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



417 



The operation of budding, in all sorts, is mostly performed 
on young trees raised from seed, suckers, layers, &c. which 
are termed stocks, and which, when about half an inch thick 
in the bottom of the stem, are of a proper size for budding 
on, although it may be performed upon stocks much smaller. 
It is also practised on trees that already bear fruit, when in- 
tended to change the sorts, or to have different sorts on the 
same tree, or to renew any particular branches of a tree ; per- 
forming the operation on young shoots of the year's, or of one or 
more year's growth. This is the most suitable time for begin- 
ning this operation, although, in some cases, it may be done 
successfully sooner ; but from the middle of this month till the 
end of August is the most general season. When buds are 
put in too early, they are apt to spring the same season, and 
not having time to harden or ripen, are often destroyed in 
winter. The buds should always have finished their spring 
growth, and come off readily in the operation. The buds 
ehould be taken from the young shoots of the same summer's 
growth, and, like grafls, should be cut from the most healthy 
trees intended to be propagated. A number of the best and 
moderately strong shoots should be cut each day, as they are 
wanted, and as they are collected, all the leaves should be cut 
o.tf, with about a quarter of an inch of their foot-stalks only 
left, trimming off also the spongy soft ends of the shoots ; 
they should then be covered from the air and sun, and taken 
as wanted; and as each cutting furnishes many buds, they 
should be cut into pieces about an inch and a half long, as 
they are inserted into the stocks. Those buds in the middle 
part of the cuttings are preferable to those towards the ends. 

It is the common practice to insert one bud only in each 
stock ; but some place two, one on each side, opposite eacli 
other. 

The proper height at which to bud thc stocks varies according 
to circumstances. For dwarf-trees intended for walls and espa- 
liers. Sec. they should be budded fi'om within about three to 
six inches of the bottom, that they may at first furnish branches 
near the ground. For half-standards, at the height of three 
or four feet ; and for full-standards, at from five to six or seven 
feet height ; the stocks being trained accordingly. For half and 

3 H 



418 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Juhj. 



fuil-standards, the budding may, however, if necessary, be 
performed as low in the stock as for dwarfs, and the first shoot 
from the bud trained up to a proper height for a stem. 

The proper apparatus for budding are, a small knife with a 
flat thin handle, for preparing the stock and buds for inser- 
tion, and opening the bark of the stock, to admit them, and a 
number of new bass strings to tie them, which should be pre- 
viously well soaked in water to render them more tough. 

As in this operation, the head of the stock is not cut off, as 
in grafting, but left entire till the ensuing spring, and then 
cut off, a smooth part on the side of the stock, at the proper 
height, ratlicr on the northward side, away from the sun, 
should be chosen for the insertion of the buds. This should be 
done by making a horizontal cut across the rind of the stock, 
and from the middle of that a slit downwards about two inches 
in length, so that it may have the form of the letter T, being 
careftd net to cut too deep, lest the stock should be vrounded ; 
then having cut off the leaf from the bud, leaving the foot- 
stalks remaining, a cross cut should be made about half an 
inch below the eye, and the bud slit off, with part of the wood 
to it, somewhat in the form of an escutcheon : after this, that 
part of the wood which was taken with the bud should be sepa- 
rated, taking care that the eye of the bud be left ; all those 
buds which lose their eyes in stripping, are useless ; then gently 
raise the bark of the stock, where the cross incision was made, 
with the flat handle of the knife clear to the wood, and thrust 
the bud into it ; placing it smooth between the rind and the 
wood of the stock, cutting off any part of the rind of the bud, 
w hich may be too long for the slit made in the stock ; and 
having thus Exactly fitted the bud to the stock, tie them closely 
round with bass mat, beginning at the under part of the slit, 
and proceed to the top, being careful not to bind round the 
eye of the bud, which must be left open and free. 

Although it be the ordinary practice to divest the bud of that 
part of the wood which was taken from the shoot w ith it, yet 
in many sorts of tender trees, it is better to preserve a little 
wood to the bud, without which they often miscarry. This 
has occasioned some to imagine that some sorts of trees are 
not capable of being propagated by budding. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



419 



After the buds have been inserted three weeks or a montn, 
they should be examined, to see which of them have taken ; 
those which appear shrivelled and black, being dead, but those 
which remain fresh and plump have joined. At this time, the 
bandage should be loosened, which, if not done in time, is 
apt to pinch the stock, and greatly injure, if not destroy the 
bud. 

In the following March, cut off the stock about three inches 
above the bud, in a sloping manner, that the wet may pass 
off, and not enter the stock ; the shoot which proceeds from the 
bud, which would otherwise be in danger of being blown out, 
may be tied the first year to the part of the stock left above 
the bud ; after which it should be cut off close above the bud, 
that the stock may be covered by it. Some, however, think 
it a better practice to cut it close at once. 

After this, the whole effort of the stock is directed to the 
inserted buds ; they soon push forth strong, one shoot fi'om 
each ; many shoots also arise from the stock ; but these should 
be constantly rubbed off as often as they appear, that all the 
powers of the stock may be collected for the vigor of the bud- 
shoot, from which now commences the tree, and by the end of 
summer is, in some sorts, advanced three or four feet high ; and 
in the autumn or spring following, the young trees may be 
transplanted into the places where they are to remain, or they 
may be kept longer in the nursery, according to the purposes 
for which they are designed. 

SJiield-budding reversed, differs from the former, in having 
the transverse cut made at the bottom of the perpendicular 
slit, instead of its top, and of course the shield is reversed in 
its position. This mode is sometimes practised, and is pre- 
ferred to the other by those who contend that the sap rises in 
the bark equally with the wood ; but as this opinion is on the 
decline, shield-budding is not much used. It is sometimes 
practised in the orange-nurseries, near Genoa, as may be seen 
by orange-trees imported from that country. 

Scallojj-biahlhigf is performed on trees having a thick hard 
bark, and is also sometimes done when the bark and wood do 
not readily separate. It is performed by taking a thin tongue- 
ehaped section of bark from the side of the stock, and in 



420 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



taking a similar section from the shoot of buds, but in neither 
case removing the wood. The section or shield, containing 
the bud, is then laid on the corresponding scallop in the 
stock ; its upper edge exactly fitted as in shield-budding, and 
at least one of its edges as in whip-grafting. After this, it is 
tied in the usual way. This sort of budding may be performed 
in spring, or at any season. The French gardeners often bud 
their roses in this manner in spring, and if they fail, they 
have a second chance in J uly by using common shield-budding. 
Its disadvantages are, that it takes longer time to perform the 
operation, and is less certain of success. 

The late professor Thouin enumerates no less than twenty- 
three species and varieties of budding, but of these, none are 
in practice in this country but the three already described ; and 
of these, tlie first, or common shield-budding, is the most com- 
mon in use. Budded trees are generally two years longer in 
producing their fruit, than grafted ones ; but the advantages of 
budding is, that where a tree is rare, a new plant can be got 
from every eye, whereas, by grafting, it can only be got from 
three or four eyes. When grafting has been omitted in spring, 
then budding comes in, as an auxiliary, in summer. Mr. 
Knight has transferred blossom-buds from one tree to the 
barren shoots of another with success. However, he does not 
consider this to be of much utility, but merely a curious ex- 
periment. 



GRAFTING FRUIT-TUEES. 

A variety of saddle-grafting is practised in many parts of 
Herefordshire, and is not done till this month, or the latter 
end of the former. It is practised on small stocks, at the 
time the bark is most readily detached from the alburnum. 
The head of the stock is taken off by a single stroke of the 
knife obliquely, so that the incision commences about a dia- 
meter of the stock below the point, where the medulla appears 
in the section of the stock, and ends as much above it on the 
opposite side. The scion, which for this mode of grafting 
should not exceed in diameter half that of the stock, is then to 
be divided longitudinally about two inches upwards from its 



Juhj.\ 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



421 



lower end, into two unequal divisions, by passing the knife 
upwards, just in contact with one side of the medulla. The 
stronger division of the scion is then pared thin at its lower 
extremity, and introduced, as in crown-grafting, between the 
bark and the wood of the stock, and the more slender divi- 
sion is fitted to the stock upon the opposite side. The scion, 
by this means, stands asti'ide of the stock, to which it attaches 
itself in a very complete manner, and covers the top of the 
stock in one season. Apples and pears grafted by this method 
seldom fail, and may be practised with equal success with 
young wood of this year's growth, as soon as it becomes mode- 
rately firm and hard. 

VINES. 

Vines should be now looked over again, in order to clear 
them from such shoots as have been produced since last month. 
In vines, many small shoots generally rise, one mostly from 
every eye of the same summer's shoots which v/ere laid in a 
month or two ago ; and the same small shoots must now, as 
they are produced, be all displaced, to admit all possible bene- 
fit of the sun and free air to the advancing fruit. 

All other shoots, wherever placed, that have been lately pro- 
duced, must also now be rubbed off close ; and such shoots 
as shall rise any time this month, should, accordingly as they 
come out, be continually taken off, except where good size- 
able shoots advance in or near any vacant parts where a sup- 
ply of young wood appears necessary ; in which case, it is 
proper to retain them, and have them trained in regularly. 

WALL-TREES. 

Where wall-trees have not yet had their summer pruning, 
that very needlul work should be done in the beginning of the 
month ; otherwise, the fruit upon such trees will not only be 
small and ill-grown, but be greatly retarded in attaining ma- 
turity, and will be also of very inferior flavor. Independently of 
retarding the growth and spoiling the taste of the fruit, it is also 
detrimental, in a very great degree, to wall and espalier trees, to 



422 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Juhj. 

neglect the summer pruning and the entire nailing till this 
time ; particularly to apricots, peaches, nectarines, and such 
trees as produce their fruit principally upon the one year old 
shoots. It also causes great perplexity to the pruner, to break 
through and regulate such a thicket and confusion of wood, 
requires treble the pains and labour, and cannot be executed 
with such accuracy, as when the work is commenced early in 
the summer. 

There is a very great advantage in beginning early in the 
summer to train the shoots in a proper direction ; and, at the 
same time, to clear the trees from all ill-placed, luxuriant, and 
superfluous shoots ; for when the useless wood is timely cleared 
out, and the useful shoots laid in closely and regularly to the 
wall, the sun, air, and gentle showers, will, during the whole 
time, have proper access, not only to promote the gi'owth and 
improve the flavor of the fruit, but also to harden or ripen the 
shoots properly, which is absolutely necessary to their pro- 
ducing good fruit and proper wood next year. 

Do not shorten any of the shoots at this time, but let every 
one be laid in at its full length, where room admits. Look 
also again over such wall and espalier trees as were pruned 
and nailed the last two months ; and see if all the shoots then 
laid in, keep firm in their places ; and where there are any that 
have been displaced, are loose, or project much from the wall, 
let them be now nailed in again close in their proper position. 

Likewise observe if there have been any straggling shoots 
produced since last month, in places where not wanted, and 
let them now be displaced. 

FINAL THINNING OF WALL-FRUITS. 

The stoning of peaches, nectarines, apricots, and plums, 
will now be over, and all danger of their casting their fruit 
at that precarious season be past. They should now be thinned 
out nearly to their respective distances, leaving, however, a 
few more than enough to be picked off' occasionally, till towards 
the end of this month or the beginning of next, for fear of 
accidents. Sometimes many will drop off' between their stoning, 
and their taking their first swelling, as it is called; but all 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



423 



thinning should be completed before they take their last swell- 
ing, for if delayed longer, it will be too late. With respect 
to the quantity or number proper to be left on a tree, much 
must depend on its size and strength, and whether it be an 
established tree, or still in training. All healthy trees are to 
be allowed to carry a greater quantity than those in a .debili- 
tated state; young trees still training, unless very gi'oss in- 
deed, should also be well thinned of fruit, else their progress 
in filling their allotted share of the wall or pales will be pre- 
vented. Very luxuriant trees, however, may be allowed to 
carry a larger crop to correct their gross habits ; and this, if 
judiciously done, will bring them into better wood than any 
system of pruning that can be adopted. On the larger sorts 
of peaches, apricots, &c., in a healthy full-bearing state, one 
fruit for every square foot of surface may be taken as a good 
medium. That is to say, that a tree occupying a space equal 
to one hundred square feet should be allowed to ripen one 
hundred fruit ; the smaller sorts may be allowed to riioen one- 
third more, according to their size and the health of the trees. 
Plums should be thinned to a reasonable extent, and not be 
allowed to touch each other if on spurs ; and if on young wood, 
and of the larger sorts, to be full six inches apart. Few gar- 
deners have resolution to thin sufficiently, all being ambitious 
of large crops ; but by thinning, that which is lost in number 
is more than made up for in weight and quality. It is a just 
observation of a very intelligent gardener, that " every one 
ought to thin his friend's trees." The effects of thinning can, 
like most other operations in gardening, only be discovered by 
comparison. Lot, therefore, one tree be thinned as above, 
and another only half as much, and it will be found, that the 
tree fully thinned will produce a greater weight of fruit, and 
be incomparably more beautiful and higher in flavor. Apples 
and pears, particularly the finer sorts, should be thinned, and 
the result will ])e obvious. They should be thinned when 
about half grown, at a time when all chance of their dropping 
off is over. It is not going too far, to say that all small fruits, 
gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and even strawberries,, 
should be thinned. These should be thinned with sharp-pointed 
scissars, such as are used for thinning gi'apes. The best cul- 



424 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



tivators of these fruits thin them very much. Nothing tends 
more to keep fruit-trees in good health than a regularity in 
their crops, and this should always be done some time before 
they swell off for ripening ; for if delayed till they be nearly 
full gi'own, the mischief is in a great measure done, both to 
the tree and to the fruit that is left. 

WATERING WALL-TREES. 

This important business should be persevered in, to all trees, 
excepting those which are ripening their fruit; from these it 
must be withheld until the fruit be gathered, when one or two 
good w^aterings with the engine should be given. 

DESTROYING INSECTS ON FRUIT-TREES. 

Continue assiduously the destruction of insects of all sorts 
that infest the fruit-garden. Wasps will now be getting strong, 
if care have not been taken to destroy them as they appear. 
The most effectual method to destroy them is to find out their 
nests, and at night introduce a squib made of gunpowder, 
which will stupify them ; or brimstone-smoke introduced will 
have the same effect, but it is not so readily forced into the 
remote parts of their subterraneous habitations, as that of gun- 
powder. For the more effectually carrying this work into exe- 
cution, give rewards to boys, and the operatives of the garden, 
for each nest destroyed within a mile of the garden, and let 
each nest so destroyed be brought to the gardener, or whom 
he may appoint, to see that it is done in a proper manner. 
Boys will discover the nests in the day-time, and at night, 
when all the enemy are encamped, fire the train, and their 
destruction follows in a fev/ seconds, not one of them escaping. 
When the squib is fiiirly introduced, put the foot, or a piece 
of turf, on the hole, to prevent the escape of the smoke, which 
after having been a few minutes in the hole, dig up the nest 
with a spade, and pour plenty of water upon the whole, which 
work up into a complete mortar, with the spade ; or else gather 
up the whole, and carry it to the garden for examination. A 
diligent attention to this practice will, in a couple of seasons, 
clear a distance of two miles round the garden entirely from 
these destructive creatures. Phials half filled wdth any sweet 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



i25 



liquid, hung up in the trees amongst the fruit, will destroy 
many, whilst a number maybe destroyed during the time they 
are buried in the fruit, which they excavate quite hollow, and 
are so intent upon the fruit, that they will scarcely come out 
of it. They are most voracious, and will devour a vast quan- 
tity of fruit daily. The pieces of meat which they have been 
observed to carry off from a butcher's stall is truly astonish- 
ing. They are furnished with a natural saw-like proboscis, 
which they are very expert in using to cut off such pieces of 
fruit or meat as they choose. Oil is fatal to all insects when 
dropped upon their backs ; it closes up the pores by which 
they breathe : this may be readily applied to them while half 
buried in the fruit. 

The Ear-wig {Forficula) and Wood-louse {Oniscus) will 
now prey upon the ripe fruits, and should be destroyed by 
placing bean-stalks (which contain a sweetness within, of which 
they are supposed to be fond) or other hollow substitutes 
for them to retreat into during the day, as both, for the most 
part, commit their depredations in the silence of night ; and if 
these be examined every morning, and the insects they contain 
blown out, they may be readily destroyed. 

Slugs will also now ascend the walls in cloudy weather, and 
secrete themselves behind the larger branches, and in the holes 
of the wall, and will commit sad havoc upon wall-fruits, par- 
ticularly nectarines, even in an unripe state ; they will strip 
them of their skin, and sometimes eat them up altogether; a 
strict search should be made for them every day, and no part 
of the wall left unexamined ; a close attention for a few days 
will rid the trees of them, and no method so good as carefully 
hand-picking them. 

A very infallible trap for these depredators is to make small 
thimble holes, about an inch in depth, near the plants attacked ; 
into these holes the slugs are certain to retreat during the day, 
where 4hey may be destroyed by sprinkling a little quick-lime 
into the holes. We have always found the use of barilla to 
be an efficacious method of killing these vermin. If a person 
were to go over his garden early in the morning, with a little 
bag of barilla, and sprinkle a little on every slug and snail, 
their inunediate death will ensue. 

3 I 



426 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



AUGUST. 



WALL-TREES. 

Wall-trees still demand attention ; particularly peaches, nec- 
tarines, and such like. 

Let them be once more carefully looked over, and see whe- 
ther all the branches and shoots remain secure in their proper 
places. Where any have been displaced by winds or other 
accidents, let them be nailed up again in a secure and neat 
manner; and where any of the shoots are loose, or project 
from the wall, or have extended in length, let the whole be 
nailed in securely. 

To have the shoots all lie close and regular to the wall is a 
great advantage to the fruit, and is beneficial to the trees, and 
always looks well. 

As the fruits, particularly peaches, nectarines, apricots, and 
the finer plums begin to color, the leaves should be picked 
off that overshadow them, in order to allow the full power of 
the sun to reach the fruit, which will both add to its flavor and 
color. In doing so, care must be taken not to pick them off 
too close, so as to injure the buds ; in most cases, if they be 
cut off about the middle, or within an inch or two of their 
base, the buds will not suffer much, and many may be placed 
aside, and will not require to be taken oft' at all. 

FIG-TREES. 

Fig-trees will now require great care; their fruit will be 
full grown, and begin to ripen, and will require a moderate 
degree of the sun*s heat to forward them, and to give them 
their real flavor. 

All strong shoots should be laid close to the wall, but use 
the knife as little as possible. 

Let no shoots be cut off except those which grow foreright ; 
and such as grow in a proper position should be carefully 



Aug.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



427 



trained, for those which are now laid in, are the shoots from 
which the fruit is to be expected next year. And as these 
trees bear no fruit except from the one year old shoots, it is 
best to leave a sufficiency at this time, as it will be very easy 
to prune such away (at the general season for pruning) as are 
not wanted. 

Let them be laid in regularly, not one across another, and 
secure them properly, for, on account of the broadness of the 
leaves, the winds and rain have great power over them. 

NEW-BUDDED TREES AND BUDDING. 

Go over tlie stocks or trees which were budded in July, and 
let all the bandages be loosened. 

This should generally be done in about three weeks, but 
never exceed a month, after the budding is performed ; other- 
wise, as the bud will swell, the sap will be stopped in its 
regular course, and the parts about the bud will be pinched, 
and swell irregularly. 

Likewise in trees budded last year, now advancing in their 
first shoot, examine that part of the stock below the inocula- 
tion ; and where there are any shoots sent forth in that place, 
let them be taken off close. 

Budding may still be performed, and will be successful, in 
most sorts of stone-fruit, as peaches, nectarines, apricots, 
plums, See. ; but this must be done in the beginning, and not 
later than the middle of this month. 



CLEARING FRUIT-TREE BORDERS. 

Let all fruit-tree borders be now kept clean and free from 
weeds of any kind whatever, and let no litter be seen on any 
parts thereof. 

These borders, when kept clean, have not only an agree- 
able appearance to the eye, but have a very beneficial effect on 
the fruit, by reflecting the heat on the fruit, and thereby ripen- 
ing and greatly improving their flavor. 



428 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Aug 



GATHERING FRUITS. 

Many sorts of wall and standard fruits will now be ripe, the 
gathering of which is an important part in the practice of gar- 
dening, and one to which sufficient attention is seldom paid. 
It is a common practice to allow most fruits, when ripe, to fall 
of their own accord ; and, in order to prevent the injury they 
may sustain, many plans have been adopted, such as covering 
the borders at the bottom of the walls with moss, or suspending 
nets and mats for them to fall into. Fruits left upon the trees 
till sufficiently ripe to fall of their own accord, are much too 
ripe, and consequently have lost much of their flavor ; besides, 
however good the precautionary measures may be, still many 
are so much bruised as to be unfit to keep many days, and 
often not many hours. It is, therefore, much better to watch 
their ripening, and carefully to gather them as they arrive at 
full maturity, and this is to be ascertained by a close acquaint- 
ance with their natures and sorts. There are certain criteria 
to be fixed upon, by which we may know, with great nicety, 
when certain fruits are in a proper state to gather. Most 
fruits part freely with the tree when ripe, particularly the 
plum ; they should not be much handled, as the bloom is apt 
to be rubbed off. Apricots may be accounted ready to gather, 
when the side next the sun feels a little soft upon gentle pres- 
sure with the finger. They adhere firmly to the tree, and 
would remain upon it till over ripe and mealy. Peaches and 
nectarines, if moved upwards and allowed to descend with a 
gentle jerk, will separate from the tree, if ripe. Figs are 
generally ripe when the small end assumes the same color as 
the larger. Apples and pears begin to fall naturally, when 
ripe. Another and more easy mode of ascertaining the ripe- 
ness of fruit, is to move the fruit up level with the foot-stalk, 
if ripe, it will readily part from the tree. Another criterion is 
to cut up a fruit of the average ripeness of the crop, and if its 
seeds have become brown, or blackish, it is ripe ; but if it 
still remain white, it is not ripe. Much has been said of fruit- 
gatherers, &c., but the safest mode is to determine the fact of 
ripeness by some of the above-mentioned criteria. Fruits 



Aug.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 429 

may, for some time, be retarded in their ripening on the trees ; 
currants, and some thick-skinned gooseberries, may, by cover- 
ing, be retarded till Christmas. Peaches and nectarines may, 
by the same means, be kept hanging on the trees for a fort- 
night after they are ripe. This, to a certain degi'ee, injures 
their flavor, but it is often found necessary in order to suit the 
arrangements of the owner. Peaches, and other tender fruits, 
may be kept for some time, if gathered before they are fully 
ripe, and placed in boxes in a cold cellar or ice-house ; and 
fruits even gathered in the morning, if placed in the ice-house, 
are supposed to be improved in flavor when sent to the table 
in the afternoon. 

During the season of the finer fruits, the walls should be 
gone over once at least, if not twice every day, and all ripe 
fruit gathered carefully by hand, bruising it as little as pos- 
sible, and carefully laying it in a flat level-bottomed basket, 
which should be carried by a second person. The bottom of 
the basket should be covered with some fine dry moss, Hi/p- 
num or Sp/ia^nmn, and over it a sheet or sheets of clean 
paper, upon which the fruit should be carefully placed in rows, 
and steadily carried along until the whole be gathered, or until 
the bottom of the basket be covered ; but in no case, parti- 
cularly when gathering peaches or nectarines, put more in one 
basket than what will cover the bottom. Carry this basket to 
the fruit-room, and, to prevent an unnecessary handling of 
tlie fruit, leave them in the basket until wanted for use. With 
another basket, or baskets, according to the quantity to be 
gathered, proceed again until the whole be collected. But 
where there are a number of trees, and the quantity of fruit 
great, the best only should be thus carefully collected, and 
another basket should be carried, into which all such as may 
have fldlen, or be in any way injured, should be placed, and 
these also should be carried to the fruit-room till wanted for 
the kitchen, for stewing or other culinary purposes, or other- 
wise disposed of as may be desired. All other fruits should 
be collected according to this manner. Such as are much de- 
stroyed witli wasps and other insects should be left on the 
ground, or stuck on the trees, as while they last, the insects 
will not attack the other fruit; they will act as baits for them 



430 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



at the same time, and should be looked to frequently, and as 
many of the insects killed as possible. Notwithstanding this 
care of gathering them daily, many will fall, but in order to 
save them as much as possible, it will be advisable to have 
either mats or nets suspended for them to fall into ; it will save 
many from being dashed to pieces, or so bruised as to be unfit 
for use. At that season, when peaches, nectarines, apricots, 
and plums most abound, the supply should be given in for 
preserving and such like uses, in order that when the later sorts 
come in, the demand may not be so great for them for the des- 
sert, as to be attended with inconvenience to the gardener to 
spare them. This ought to be considered of all fruits while 
they are in plenty, in order to avoid disappointment and un- 
pleasant altercations. 

Jargonelle, bergamots, and other pears ; jennetting, sum- 
mer pearmain, and other apples, which ripen in July and Au- 
gust, should be eaten from the tree, or w^ithin a few days after 
they are pulled ; they should not be allowed to drop, and they 
lose much of their flavor by keeping. When gathered, they 
should be laid upon the shelves of the fruit-room, laying paper 
under them ; but on no account lay them upon moss, hay, or 
brown paper, either of which will give them a bad flavor; 
neither should they be laid in heaps, nor too closely together, 
but should be laid out quite separate and distinct, so that they 
will not even touch each other. Free air should be admitted 
at all times into the fruit-room at this season, and in damp 
weather, a gentle fire should be kept up, in order to dry any 
damp that may have arisen in the room. Cherries and plums 
should for the most part be gathered from the trees, as should 
be all small fruits, and as soon before they are used as pos- 
sible, as they lose their flavor by keeping. 

PACKING FRUIT FOR CARRIAGE. 

Fruit sent to any distance should not be packed in baskets, 
as it is liable to be injured by being bruised. Boxes of tin or 
deal should be used for this purpose, and of sizes according to 
the quantity to be sent. These boxes, if of wood, should be 
made of inch deal, and secured at the corners with iron 



Aug.] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



431 



clamps, and secured with locks, each lock having two keys, 
one to be kept by the person who packs the fruit, and the 
other by the person who unpacks it. These two keys to an- 
swer the locks of all the boxes. In packing the fruits, the 
heaviest and largest should be put in the bottom, and the 
lightest and more delicate on the top. Thus, melons, apples, 
and pears, should be put in the bottom, each wrapped up in a 
separate piece of clean paper, and packed in amongst clean 
well-dried moss ; species of Sphagnum or Hypmnn to be pre- 
ferred ; over them may be packed peaches, apricots, plums, and 
grapes, each first wrapped up in vine leaves, and over them a 
piece of clean paper, and laid level in, and packed tightly 
with moss. Strawberries, gooseberries, currants, and rasp- 
berries, should be put into shallow tin boxes, each sort se- 
parately, and packed in the larger box beneath the peaches and 
gi'apes. In packing, observe to lay the fruits in regular layers, 
and between each layer a course of moss ; continue this till 
the box be full, which should be made up with moss, if there 
be not a sufficient quantity of fruits to fill it, to prevent any 
friction amongst the fruits. The lid should be then secured 
down with a lock, but not with nails, for the difficulty of get- 
ting them out would shake the fruits too much. The moss 
should always be returned in the boxes, which, if kept dry 
and well aired, will generally last all the season. 



DESTKOYING INSECTS ON FRUIT-TREES. 

Continue the destruction of all insects on fruit-trees. As 
many fruits will now be ripening, the use of the garden-engine 
must be suspended. If it has been freely used, as directed 
hitherto, there will be no fear of the red spider, or any other of 
the smaller insects, doing much injury. Slugs will, in wet 
weather, be both numerous and destructive ; they must be, as 
has been already directed, picked up wherever they appear ; 
and the destruction of wasps and large black flies should be 
regularly attended to, both of which will make sad havoc 
amongst the finer fruits at this season. 



432 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



COVERING UP TO RETARD SMALL FRUITS. 

Red and white currants, and ^lorella cherries, planted on 
north aspects should, as they ripen, be covered up with nets 
to protect them from birds ; and many of the currant-bushes 
may be covered with large garden-mats, which will preserve 
them till a late period. The late and thick-skinned gooseber- 
ries, red and white currants, in quarters or rows round the 
sides of the walks, should be examined, and such as are best 
loaded with fruit should be covered up with mats or nets. 
Where these fruits are planted in lines in the quarters of the 
garden, a quantity of wattled hurdles will be found extremely 
useful for this purpose, placing a row of them along both 
sides of the bushes, about two or two and a half feet distant 
at the bottom, and brought together at the top and tied with 
cords, placing each hurdle close to the other, so as to exclude 
birds from getting in. In such places, as it is likely that they 
will get in at, a few small branches of spruce, or other thick- 
growing trees, should be drawn in, so as to thicken them suffi- 
ciently. The ends of each row should be secured with a piece 
of mat. At any time that birds should get in, they can be 
easily killed or driven out, by opening the end mat and begin- 
ning at the other, with a small stick drive them out. This 
mode of preserving small fruits we have found to answer much 
better than any other ; for if the bushes were summer pruned, 
as already advised, a freer circulation of air passes among the 
bushes, and prevents the fruit from moulding and spoiling, 
which it is very apt to do when covered with mats ; and the 
expense of hurdles is much less than that of mats, and can be, 
if taken care of, made to last for several years, and are ex- 
tremely useful for many other purposes in the garden, such as 
shading newly-planted crops in sunny weather, and for pro- 
tecting early spring crops from the effects of frost, &c. 

PLANTING STRAWBERRIES 

Strawberries may now be planted. The strongest plants 
should be chosen, and if the roots be well puddled before 
planting, and a good watering given as soon as planted, they 
will soon strike root, and be established before the approach 
of winter. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



433 



SEPTEMBER. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 

These fruits will now require particular attention, many of 
them will be ripe and ripening. The use of the engine should 
now be withheld, until the crop be all gathered. Any shoots 
that may have been displaced from the wall by winds or other- 
wise, should be neatly nailed in, and all useless and ill-placed 
shoots taken off. Where leaves hang over, and overshadow 
the fruit, they should be taken off, as directed last month, so 
that the fruit may derive all possible benefit from the sun, both 
to improve its flavor and color. As most fruits swell best 
when not too much exposed to the sun, this picking off of 
the leaves should not take place until they show symptoms 
of ripening; the influence of the sun for a few days will be 
sufficient to effect the desired object. In gathering such as 
are ripe, attend to the instructions given last month. 

VINES. 

The vines on the walls should be looked over, all use- 
less lateral shoots pinched off, and all straggling branches 
nailed in closely to the wall, both to allow the sun getting in to 
the fruit, and also to ripen the wood for next year. Where 
the bunches are too much shaded, some of the leaves should 
be picked off, but in doing so, take great care not to overdo 
it ; leave the whole or most part of the foot-stalk of the leaf 
attached to the wood, and take as few as possible away, as 
the vine suffers much from the loss of its leaves. Any shoots 
that were not shortened before, should be now done, to allow 
as much light as possible to the fruit and to avoid confusion. 
The earlier grapes on favorable situations beginning to ripen, 
should have the benefit of the sun as much as possible, and if 
the wasps or birds attack them, they should be protected from 
both by being put into thin crape, or gauze bags, putting one 

3 K 



AfM' THE PHACTICAL GARDEKEK. [Sept, 

bunch only in each, and havhig the bags made of different 
sizes for that purpose. Such grapes as are not so forward, 
should be thinned out for good ; it is of much importance that 
this be done in time ; and also let them be well thinned to 
allow them room to swell, and the sun to ripen them. 

APPLES, PEARS, AND OTHER TREES UPON WALLS. 

These trees should be examined, and where required, all 
young or loose shoots carefully nailed to the wall, and, as 
dLj;ected for peaches and nectarines, those leaves which shade 
the finest fruit should be taken off, and all useless wood cleared 
away to prevent shade and confusion. Such of these fruits as 
are ripe, or ripening, should be carefully gathered when fit, 
choosing the middle of the day, when the sun has dried up all 
moisture, and carefully, without bruising them, removed to the 
shelves of the fruit-room, and there laid on sheets of clean 
printing paper. Never use for this purpose either coarse 
brown paper, or hay, or moss, for all communicate an un- 
pleasant taste to the fruit. The room should be kept well 
aired, in fine weather by admitting a free current of air through 
it, and in damp weather, by having a fire occasionally in it. 
The fruit should be occasionally turned over, and all that show 
any symptoms of decay entirely removed. 

FRUITS UPON ESPALIER AND STANDARD-TREES. 

The espalier-trees should be regulated exactly as if they 
were on walls, and the standards, where it is convenient fi*om 
their height to be easily got at, should be also thinned of 
superfluous wood and leaves, to allow the action of air and 
sunshine to pass freely to the fruit, as well as to disencumber 
the trees of all useless wood, which will take much nourish- 
ment fi'om the fruit and more useful wood. Such of the fruits 
as are ripe should be carefully picked and laid by, as directed 
above. For further directions for storing fruits, see next 
month* 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



435 



DESTROYING INSECTS UPON FRUIT-TREES. 

Never lose sight of this object, even when the crop is ga- 
thered. Therefore, when a tree gets disloaded of its fruit, 
resume the use of the garden-engine with great force upon 
them, particularly apricots, peaches, and plums. The red 
spider will often begin to show itself again, having, from the 
respite gained, while the fruit was ripening and ripe, gained 
considerable strength. The destruction of this very formidable 
enemy, by destroying at this time his thousands, will prevent 
his millions from coming forth in spring. The slugs and 
wasps will now be strong ; every means should be adopted to 
destroy them : the directions given already, if acted upon with 
perseverance, will subdue them. 

PREPARE FOR PLANTING FRUIT-TREES. 

Towards the end of this month prepare the gi'ound where 
new plantations of fruit-trees are to be made. The directions 
already given on this head, if acted upon, will be sufficient to 
render any repetition here unnecessary. Many fruit-trees of 
the earlier sorts will have their wood sufficiently ripened, by 
the end of this month, to admit of their being transplanted. 
One advantage will be gained by early autumn planting : the 
roots will, if supplied with plenty of water, and puddled 
as already recommended, soon push out fresh fibres, and be 
so far established before winter, that their change will 
not be much observed in spring. This is a good season for 
removing the earlier sorts of peaches and other stone fruits ; 
and, if carefully done, a crop may be expected of them the 
ensuing spring. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Strawberries should now be planted ; this season and spring 
being the best, although under favorable circumstances, they 
may be planted at almost any other season. They should be 
copiously supplied with water when planted, and the ground 
trenched at least two feet deep. As their roots penetrate to 



436 



THK PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



a grevit depth, the ground cannot well be made too rich for 
them. Such strawberries as are planted in lines in the fruit- 
garden should have their runners cut. off, and a good quantity 
of rich manure dug in between the rows, and the ground left 
as rough as possible. Do not, however, cut off all their leaves, 
as has been long the practice, as it evidently injures the plants, 
and leaves the tender buds without any protection during the 
winter. 



CLEARING THE JORDERS ABOUT W^ALL-TREES. 

The fruit-tree borders should be kept neat and clean by 
repeated hoeing and raking. They should be cropped at this 
season, chiefly with light crops, such as lettuce, endive, and 
other salads, which will neither shade the trees, nor exhaust 
the borders. It is, however, often necessary to have crops of 
early cabbage, cauliflowers, &c. upon them for protection during 
winter, and for accelerating their growth in spring. These 
cannot do any possible injury to the trees, provided that a due 
proportion of well made compost be added previously to each 
crop that is calculated to exhaust the ground. Salads will do 
little injury to these borders, and none at all, if they be pre- 
viously assisted with a slight compost manure. 

DIGGING THE GROUND BETWEEN THE ROWS OF GOOSEBERRIES 
AND CURRANTS. 

The borders and quarters amongst these plants may be dug 
as soon as convenient, after the crops are gathered ; and, if 
ground be scarce, the intervals between the rows may be 
cropped with winter spinach, late turnips, or any of the bras- 
sica tribe ; if cropped with any of these, unless the ground be 
very rich, give a moderate dunging. If there be no intention 
to crop this ground, then let the whole be dug, leaving the 
surface as rough as possible, so that it may be the more fully 
exposed to the action of the frosts and air. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



457 



OCTOBER. 



GENERAL CARE OF WALL AND ESPALIER-TREES. 

The season of pruning and training these trees is now over, 
for what is called the summer pruning ; and towards the end 
of the month, that of the winter pruning will be commencing. 
Those trees which have been disloaded of their fruit, should 
now be gone over with a light birch-broom, or straight switch 
or cane, and all the ripe or decaying leaves brushed off. This 
will greatly forward the ripening of the wood, and the matura- 
tion of the blossom-buds for next year. This brushing should 
be cautiously performed, never brushing much at a time. The 
shoots from which the leaves are to be displaced should be 
gently stroked upwards and outwards, but never the reverse 
way of the buds, for fear of injuring them. Standard-trees 
exposed to the wind seldom require this care, but as the wind 
has not the same power on wall and espalier-trees, it becomes 
essentially necessary. 

GATHERING AND STORING WINTER-FRUITS. 

Most apples and pears will be fit for gathering from the 
first till towards the end of the month. This, however, will 
depend on the season being early or late, and likewise the 
situation. These fruits, under most circumstances, will be 
in general ripe by the end of this month. Apples and pears 
will be fully ripe for gathering when their seeds change from 
a white to a darker color, and they should be gathered by the 
hand, and not allowed to fall of their own accord, nor yet to 
be shaken off the tree by force. They should be picked both 
from walls, espaliers, and standard-trees, individually, and 
carefully put into baskets; this, with the convenience of proper 



438 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oci. 



ladders, can be as easily and nearly as soon done as if shaken 
down by force, and half of them spoiled. The expense ot 
gathering them in this way will be more than defrayed by 
saving the fruit from bruises. When they are gathered from 
the tree, they should be carried into the fruit-room, and care- 
fully ai-ranged on the several shelves. The gathering of these 
fruits should be confined to the middle part of the day, when 
all damp is dissipated. Examine the trees several times before 
the operation commences, to determine that all the dew or wet 
is off the leaves, as well as the fruit. Where the quantity ot 
fruit is considerable, it will be impossible to spread it all out 
on shelves, neither is there any necessity for so doinf^. All 
the more common and less valuable sorts, chiefly preserved for 
culinary purposes, may, when carefully gathered, be removed 
to the fruit-room, and laid up in heaps to sweat. This prac- 
tice is not generally advocated in this century, but the most 
scientific liorticulturists of the last adopted it with success, 
and we can see no reasonable objection to its being done to 
such fruits, at least, as are designed for the kitchen. By thus 
sweating them a little, a quantity of moisture is thereby got 
rid of, which is, probably, no detriment to the fruit, and must 
certainly contribute to its keeping. 

After the fruit has remained to sweat for a few days, it 
should be carefully examined, and all wiped quite dry with a 
cloth, and laid out thinly for a few hours to dry still more 
e{fectually, then they should be packed in boxes or hampers, 
with clean meadow hay, free from must or bad smell, and each 
sort kept by itself, as they will not all keep equally well. The 
quantity of hay should be no more than just sufficient to pre- 
vent each layer of fruit touching each other ; and when the 
box or hamper is full, let it be correctly labeled with the name, 
and time to which it is supposed to keep, and then the boxes 
or hampers should be packed close up to prevent confusion, 
the later kinds nearest the ground, and those that will be first 
ready for use on the top. These ought to be examined through 
the winter, and taken out, and any decayed ones removed, and 
the whole wiped clean and repacked again, observing to dry 
the hay, if at all damp, before using it a second time, or sub- 
stituting sweet fresh hay in preference. The boxes are to be 



OcL] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



439 



preferred to hampers, and the closer that they are made the 
better to exclude air, the better will the fruit keep. They 
should not be examined until they have been a considerable 
time in the boxes ; this must be determined upon according to 
the nature of the fruit, whether it be a good keeping sort or 
not. For the finer kinds of apples and pears, more care should 
be taken of them, as their quantity will not be so great. Mr. 
Knight has, in one of his valuable papers, given the following 
as the most successful mode of keeping the finer apples and 
pears : The most successful method of preserving apples and 
pears which," he says, " I have tried, has been placing them 
in glazed earthen vessels, each containing about a gallon, 
(called provincially steens,) and surrounding each fruit with 
paper : but it is probable that the chaft' of oats, if free from 
moistm'e, or any offensive smell, might be used with advantage 
instead of paper, and with much less expense or trouble. 
These vessels, being perfect cylinders about a foot each in 
height, stand very conveniently on each other, and thus present 
the means of preserving a large quantity of fruit in a small 
room ; and if the spaces between the top of one vessel and the 
base of another be filled with a cement, composed of two parts 
of the curd of skimmed milk and one of lime, by which the 
air will be excluded, the latter kinds of apples and pears will 
be preserved with little change in their appearance, and with- 
out any danger of decay, from October till February and 
March. A dry and cold situation, in which there is little 
change of temperature, is the best for the vessels ; but I have 
found the merits of pears to be greatly increased, by their being 
taken from the vessels about ten days before they are wanted 
for use, and being kept in a warm room, for warmth at this, 
as at all other periods, accelerates the maturity of the pear. 
The same agent accelerates its decay also ; and a warmer climate 
contributes to the superior success of the French gardeners, 
which probably arises only from the circumstance of their fruit 
being the produce of standard or espalier-trees." 

The above is the rationale of Mr. Knight's practice, and 
exactly agrees in principle with our own, which we have adopted 
for several years ; the only difierence is, that we have kept our 
fruit in strong boxes filled with dry sharp sand, in which the 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



fruit was packed and secured in a dry room, and as much ex- 
cluded from the air as possible. By this means, the better 
keeping apples and pears will keep till April and May, and 
some will keep till June. However, it is probable that fruits 
packed in charcoal, or very dry bog-mould, may keep much 
longer. 

PLANTING FRUIT-TREES. 

If plantations of fruit-trees be intended, during the next or 
the succeeding months, it will be now necessary to begin pre- 
paring for that purpose ; for full directions see the Planting of 
Fruit-trees i and Preparation of Soils for them. If it has been 
a good season, fruit-trees will be lit fur transplanting by the 
end of this month, and for light soils it is the best season in 
the year. 

SMALL FRUITS. 

Plantations of gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, where 
wanted, should be made towards the end of this month. They 
will be pretty well rooted before winter. 

PRESERVING SMALL FRUITS. 

The gooseberry and currants matted or netted up should 
occasionally, in dry days, be uncovered, and all decaying leaves 
picked off, and every thing removed that has a tendency to 
produce mouldiness, or rottenness. When they are pedectly 
dry, mat or net them up again, so as to exclude birds, &c. 



Nov,] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



441 



NOVEMBER. 



PRUNING FRUIT-TREES. 

1 he pruning of fruit-trees of all sorts may be begun this 
month, excepting figs, and peaches, the wood of which is not 
yet sufficiently ripe. Where there is much pruning to be done, 
the standard fruit-trees may be first operated upon, as the 
majority of them will now be sufficiently ripe for that purpose ; 
and by the time that they are finished, those on the espaliers, 
and afterwards the wall-trees, may be proceeded with. It is of 
importance, in extensive gardens, to begin winter-pruning at an 
early period, that there may be plenty of time to do the whole 
in a proper manner. In going over standard-trees at this time, 
if they be old, and much crowded with old spurs, they should 
be cut out in a regular thinning manner, and all superfluous 
young wood, that is not wanted to form branches to fill up any 
vacancy, or to replace any old worn out ones, should be 
cleared away, an 1 even some of the old branches should be 
cut out in such a way, as to keep up a succession of young 
wood in every part of the tree. If this be properly attended 
to, the trees will remain much longer in a healthy state, than 
if allowed to grow on without such a provision being made for 
forming a supply of bearing wood. Trees much debilitated 
and decayed, should be headed down to within a few inches of 
the graft or bud; as directed in the spring months ; proper 
ladders and pruning instruments should be used, so that the 
operation may be performed without injury to the trees. 

PRUNING AND TRAINING VINES ON THE OPEN WALLS. 

It is a general practice to prune vines on the open walls in 
spring, but as they are apt to bleed much, if that operation 
be delayed until the sap has risen, we deem it the safest v/ay to 
perform it iji autumn as soon as the leaves have fallen, and the 
wood is sufficiently ripened, or as soon after as convenient. 

3 L 



442 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Nov. 



Vines on the open walls, in favorable situations, are no un- 
important part of the produce of tlie fruit-garden ; and, in 
situations where the fruit does not quite ripen in ordinary sea- 
sons, it is, in its unripe state, of some consequence to the 
owner, not only for the use of the kitchen, but also for the 
more important purpose of wine-making. 

Vines, under such circumstances, may be trained and pruned 
in a variety of forms, and fancy may here be more indulged 
than with such as are in the vinery. As this plant, like some 
others, produces its fruit on young shoots arising from the 
wood of the preceding season, it therefore becomes necessary 
that, that description of wood should be encouraged and equally 
distributed over the whole tree ; and as the vine is apt to be- 
come naked, or thin of such wood towards the bottom, parti- 
cularly under bad management, it is the more necessary to 
point out the necessity of counteracting that habit by a judi- 
cious use of the pruning-knife. However advantageous it 
may be in the management of vines under glass, to retain the 
shoots at some length, often of several feet, it is obvious that 
the same principle is not applicable to those in the open air. 
The practice of those, who cultivate vineyards for the purpose 
of wine-making, teaches us that cutting them short is advan- 
tageous, even in good climates ; it is therefore more so with 
us in our less congenial one ; and the success of those, who 
with us have carried this branch of horticulture to any extent, 
bears us out in the assertion. \'ines in the open air break 
more regularly than when forced ; therefore there can be no 
want of fruitful shoots, should the wood of the present year 
be shortened in at this time, to two, or often, where the buds 
are strong, to one eye. However, the eye nearest to the old 
wood is often weak, and less likely to produce a fruitful shoot. 
Our practice, in such cases, has been to rub off the eye nearest 
to the old wood, when weak, and to depend upon the next two 
for our supply. Where neatness is attended to in the minu- 
tiae, this practice we own will in time make the spurs more 
bulky, but the extent of the crop will be proportionably great. 
As the finest flavored grapes are supposed to be produced at 
the extremities of the branches, or on those that are fliithest 
from the root, it consequently follows that a mode of training 



THE FRUIT GARDEN, 



US 



similar to ^figs. 1 , 2, and 3, will have that effect within the 
least space of wall, wholly occupied with vines. 




In conformity to this idea, as well as filling the empty spaces 
upon walls before the permanent trees fully extend themselves, 
a correspondent in the Horticultural Society's Transactions, 
proposes to train vines " horizontally under the coping of a 
garden-wall to a great distance, and by inverting the bearing 
shoots, the spaces between the other fruit-trees, and the top 
of the wall, could readily be filled up ; and if dilFercnt vines 
were enarched to the horizontal branch, the south wall of a 
large garden might be furnished with a variety of sorts from 
the stem and root of a single plant, the roots of which would 
not incumber the border, in which the other fruit-trees are 



444 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [jVoV. 

growing. I have," lie says, " an experiment of this kind now 
in progress in my garden. Within a few years past, I have 
gradually trained bearing branches of a small black cluster 
grape, to the distance of nearly fifty feet from the root, and . 
find the bunches every year grow larger and ripen earlier, a; 
the shoots continue to advance," 

According to Knight's theory of the circulation of the sap 
the ascending sap must necessarily become enriched by the 
nutritious particles it meets with in its progress through the 
vessels of the alburiuun ; " but I suppose," he adds, " that 
there are certain limits, beyond which the sap would be so 
loaded with nutriment, that it could not freely circulate." 

In i)runing the vine at any season, or in any way, it is ne- 
cessary to make the cut at least half an inch above the eye 
from whence the shoot is expected to spring ; and it must be 
done in a sloping direction, to prevent the lodgment of mois- 
ture, which might tend to bring on decay, and consequently 
the ruin of the bud or embryo shoot. When the operation of 
pruning is completed, the shoots should be neatly nailed again 
to the walls, and they will require no farther care till the sea- 
son of summer-pruning arrives. 

In regard to the method of training and fastening the shoots 
of vines on the roofs of cottages, Mr. Latham of Aylesbury, 
recommends the following plan. He says, in the Gardener's 
Magazine, that gardeners and others are often deterred from 
training trees over slate and tile roofs, from the expense and 
trouble of trellis-work ; but, by following the simple method 
attempted to be shewn on the annexed sketch, slating and 
tiling may soon be covered with the rich clothing of the 
grape-tree. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



445 



In the winter-pruning, take pieces of tin, six or seven inches 
in length, { fig. a b), the refuse of the tin-workers' shops will 
do, and at convenient distances turn it over the shoot intended 
to remain, and thrust part of the two ends {a a) between the 
tiles or slates. The weight of the incumbent tile or slate 
will be sufficient to keep the shoot in the place, so as not to 
be disturbed by winds. 




PLANTING FRUIT-TREES. 

All sorts of fruit trees may now be planted, if the weather 
be fine and the ground tolerably dry. It is, however, not 
advisable to plant in heavy wet lands at this season, for spring 
planting will, in such cases, be attended with more success. 
However, in lands tolerably dry, if the ground has been 
prepared as directed in January, February, &c. they may 
be planted in dry days, any time from the beginning of this 
month till the beginning of April. 

PRUNING SMALL FRUITS. 

Such plants as gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, 
should now be pruned, if there be time to spare. However, 
any time from now till the end of February will do equally 
well. Nevertheless, the more of this work which is done at this 
time, the less will be left to be done in the spring, which is 
generally a busy time for the gardener. It ought to be a 
maxim never lost sight of, Never to leave for to-morrow, 
what can conveniently be done to-day." We can form no 
idea of the hinderance and obstruction which we may meet 
with in tlie winter months, therefore the more that is done 
now, with propriety, to forward the work of the garden, the 
greater the benefit which will be derived. 



4\G THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [XoV, 

PLANTING SMALL TIIUITS. 

All sorts of small fruits, such as gooseberries, currants, and 
raspberries, should now be planted, if not done last month, 
unless the weather and soil be both very wet, in that case, the 
planting may with propriety be delayed some time longer. 

DIGGING THE GROUND AMONG SMALL FRUITS. 

As the pruning of these plants proceeds, let the ground be 
dug up in as rough a manner as possible, so that all the weeds, 
ike. may be buried ; and if it be found inconvenient to prune 
them now, nevertheless let the digging go on, and take the 
opportunity of a few frosty days to prune them, when the 
ground will be hard enough to bear without much treading. 
If this rouf][h dif^frin*? can be done tv. ice throuf^hout the winter 
months, there is no doubt but the eggs or larvae of many insects 
will be destroyed, by being turned up and thereby exposed to 
the frost, and more particularly to birds, which will now be 
more industrious in looking for such food, as their other 
sources of support are now nearly exhausted. 

GATHERING LATE FRUITS. 

If the season has been late, many of the late fruits will, 
probably, not yet be gathered in ; this shoukl now be done, 
before the frosts set in too severely upon them, and in that 
case, spoil them for keeping. In backward situations, the late 
fruits should have as much of the tree as possible, even although 
a slight frost should happen. It is of the utmost consequence 
to them that they be fully ripened ; for if pulled before they be 
ripe, they will not keep so well, and are apt to shrivel and lose 
their flavor. Such, therefore, as can be for some time, pre- 
viously to ripening, covered at niglit with mats, for fear of 
frost, will be much benefited thereby. For directions for 
gathering and storing, see {last month), 

DIGGING THE GROUND AMONG YOUNG ORCHARD-TREES. 

The following has been kid down by the late Nicol for the 
management of young orchard-grounds, until the trees come to a 
full bearing state, and the practice probably cannot be improved. 



Nov,] 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



447 



" If the cultivation of orchard-fruits be industriously fol- 
lowed, the ground among the trees should be digged and kept 
with the hoe, for the first seven or eight years after planting. 
In order to defray the expense incurred in doing so, it is very 
proper to crop the ground with vegetables to a certain extent ; 
but by no means to such an extent as to injure the trees ; 
which, however, is too frequently the case, and is very erro- 
neous. If the following rule, with respect to this matter were 
followed, the expense of keeping the ground and the rent would 
oe fully paid ; and the trees would not be injured, but, on the 
contrary, be benefited. Crop to w^ithin two feet of the trees 
the first year ; a yard the second ; four feet the third ; and so 
on until finally relinquished ; which of course w^ould be against 
the eighth year, provided the trees were planted at the dis- 
tances, and as directed in " The Planting of Orchards." 

" By this time, if the kinds have been well chosen, the 
temporary trees will be in full bearing, and will forthwith de- 
fray every necessary expense while they remain, or until the 
principal trees come into a bearing state, and it becomes neces- 
sary to remove them ; after which, the ground should be sown 
down in grass. But until then, the ground should be pro- 
perly cultivated, though not cropped, close to the trees ; and 
a moderate quantity of manure should be digged in every se- 
cond or third season, 

" This is a very proper time for doing so, whether the inter- 
vals be under crop or not. If they be under crop, pay respect 
to the spaces next the trees only ; but if not, the whole ground 
may be digged. It should be laid up in a rough manner," as 
we have so often recommended, " giving it as much surface as 
possible, in order that the weather may fully act upon and 
meliorate the soil, thus fallowing it as far as the case will 
admit. Observe to dig carefully near the trees, and so as not 
to hurt their roots and fibres." 

In digging among trees at all times, particularly where the 
soil is shallow and the roots near the surface, we would re- 
commend using a fork instead of a spade, as less likely to in- 
jure tiie roots. 



448 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



DECEMBER. 



There is seavcely any tliiiif^ to be done in the fruit-gavvioii 
this month, that cannot be done, with equal propriety, cither 
the preceding montli, or in tlie two subsequent months ; we 
would, therefore, advise a speedy fulfilment of the directions 
laid down for last month and in January. This may be called 
tUe dead time of the year. However, neatness and regularity 
should ever be before the eyes of the gardener, who wishes to 
excel. In this month, when the weather will permit, all spare 
ground in the fiiiit-garden, which is not under crop, should be 
trenched, where the roots of the trees will admit of it; and 
where not, it should be rou^di dug. Pruning of every tree 
should be forwarded v.ith all diligence; and where grounds or 
borders are in want of renewing, preparatory to being new 
planted, that work should be gone on with. The clearing of 
fruit-trees of moss and insects, as far as the latter can be 
effected, should occupy a share of his attention. In the com- 
post-yard, much is to be done in turning over compost heaps, 
and in bringing in fresh matter for forming others. Indeed, 
this' is one of the most useful employments of the gardener in 
winter, and one that is more neglected than any other. 
Wherever alterations are going on, on the manor, in the park, 
or by the sides of turnpike, or other roads, the gardener is 
most likely to find materials which will be either in their na- 
tural state highly useful to him for his fruit-tree borders, or 
by preparations, by adding manure or other materials, to cor- 
rect the lightness or stiffness of such matter to a proper tex- 
ture, to be afterwards allowed to prepare for a year, and 
during that time frequently turned over and well incorporated. 
Such })reparations are of all the most useful for producing fine 
fruit and healthy trees, and should be collected in quantities, 
according to the size and circumstances of the place. In all 
places, the gardener should be allowed a horse or two, for the 
sole use of the garden ; by such regulation much will be done 
that otherwise would be left undone, and no employment can 
be of so much consequence as the collection of materials for 
compounds; and this cannot be done if the means be not 
allowed him. 



449 



SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE 

OP 

APPLES, 

ARRANGED AS DESSERT AND CULINARY FRUITS. 



Apple, Pyne.t Mahis, of L'mnmis, — belongs to the class Icosfnxhia, and order 
Pentagynia, ami natural order Rosacece. Is a native of Britain, as well as most 
parts of Eiiropc. 

The apple is, of all the numerous fruits cultivated in the British gardens, the 
most useful ; and is brought (o a higher degree of perfection with less trouble than 
any other. It can accommodate itself almost to ail soils, situations, and climates, 
that the middle and southern parts of Europe afford. At what time, or in what 
manner, the cultivated apple attracted the notice of the inhabitants of these king- 
doms is not known. The uncultivated apple, or crab, must have been known to 
the aborigines ; and the cultivated apple, in all probability, was introduced by the 
Romans. Pliny, the Roman Historian and Naturalist, knew of twenty varieties. 
It is probable that all, or at least part of those were brouglit by that people into 
this island ; and if they, as well as other fruits, were lost after tlic Romans deserted 
this country, they must have been re-introduced by the Normans, soon after the 
conquest. It is not improbable, but that many of the apples introduced by the Ro- 
mans were first planted in the neighbourhood of Hereford, where the Romans 
were long stationed. Ilaller mentions apple-trees in Herefordshire that had attained 
the great age of one thousand years, and were still prolific ; but Mr. Knight con- 
siders two hundred years to be the ordinary duration of that tree. Herefordshire, 
it appears, was planted with apple and pear-trees at an early period : the aged 
pear-tree at Holme Laccy being a proof of that circumstance, as well as of the great 
longevity of that tree. Lord Scudamore, the then proprietor of Holme Lacey, while 
ambassador at the court of France, in Charles the First's time, is said to have col- 
lected, in Normandy, grafts of cider-apples, which he afterwards had grafted and 
planted in Herefordshire. In Henry the Eighth's time, his fruiterer, Harris, planted 
many Flanders apples and pears in Kent, probably some of which remain till this 
day. Of the merits, or number of varieties of apples cultivated so early, we have 
no certain information ; and it would be unjust to judge of them by their present 
qualities. They, like most other plants, are supposed to have a limited duration ; 
and therefore, on taking a retrospective view of the fruits of the early cultivators, 
or judging of the merits of such fruits by the old trees found near monastic ruins, 
we should not be doing them sufficient justice, as they are found so degenerated, or 
diseased, as no longer to deserve the attention of the cultivator ; still they may 
have been excellent fruits when in their prime. Knight observes, " the moil, and iis 
successful rival the red-streak, the musfs, and golden pippin, are in the last stogc of 
decay, and the stire and fox-whelp are hastening rapidly after them." The sarce 
horticulturist, after having made a variety of experiments to propagate or renevr 

3 u 



450 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the old sorts of apples, comes to this conclii^ioa : "I think," he says, «' that I am 
justified in the conclusion, that all plants of this species, however propagated from 
the same stock, partake in some degree of the same life, and will attend the 
progress of that life in the habits of its youth, its maturity, and its decay ; though 
they will not be any way affected by any incidental injuries the parent tree may 
sustain after they are detached from it." Speachly, and latterly Williamson, in 
Hort. Trans., consider that the deterioration of the apple and pear, as well as other 
fruits, may be owing to the changes to which the climate of this country is supposed 
to have been subject; and that the return of genial seasons will restore to us, from 
old trees, as good fruit as heretofore. Such also is the opinion of the compiler of 
the Encyclopaedia of Gardening; that intelligent writer considers Knight's doctrine 
contrary to the general analogy of vegetable life. "It is," he observes, "unques- 
tionably true, that all varieties have a tendency to degenerate into the primitive 
character of the species ; but to him it appears equally true, that any variety may 
be perpetuated, with all its excellences, by proper culture ; and, more especially, 
varieties of trees. However unsuccessful Knight may have been in continuing the 
moil, red-streak, and golden pippin, we cannot," he says, "alter our conviction, 
that, by grafting from these sorts, tliey may be continued such as they are, or were, 
when the scions were taken from the trees to the end of time. As to plants pro- 
pagated by extension, partaking, in some degree, of the same period of life as the 
parent, we cannot," he adds, " admit the idea as at all probable. Vines, olives, 
poplars, and willows, have been propagated by extension for ages, and are still, as 
far as can be ascertained, as vigorous as they were in the days of Noah or Pliny." 



DESSERT APPLES. 

1. Pippin, Old Golden. — This is one of the most ancient and best Dritish fruits 
lit either for dessert, kilchcn, or cider. This useful sort is fast hastening into decay 
The fruit is small, roundish, of a beautiful golden color, and deserves a wall in 
most situations. It comes to perfection upon standards in favorable situations 
The French admit this to be of English origin, and it is almost peculiar to this 
country. It docs not succeed well upon the continent. It ripens in October, and 
keeps through the winter. 

2. Pippin, Golden Warwickshire.— See No. 113. 

3. Pippin, Downton.— A seedling, by Knight; originated about 1804. Is a 
juicy fruit, and resembles the golden pippin; is fit either for dessert or cider; fmit 
small, round, and yellow ; flesh firm and sweet; lasts from October till March. 

4. Pippin, Elton, or Knight's Golden Pippin. — A seedling, by Knight ; origin- 
ated about 1S02. Excellent for dessert or cider; tree a great bearer ; fruit middle- 
sized, round, gold-colored, with spots ; flesh firm and sweet. In use from October 
till February. 

5. Pippin, Franklin's Golden. — A sub-variety of the golden pippin; procured 
in 1780. Fruit middle-sized, conical, with gold and dark spots ; keeps from No- 
vember till March ; flesh firm, and highly aromatic ; middling bearer. 

6. Pippin, Hughes's New Golden. — A French fruit ; procured in 1803. Fruit 
small, flat, and yellow ; flesh firm and sweet; keeps from October till March. Tree 
rather delicate. 

7. Pippin, Fall.— Sent to England by Mr. Cobbctt, and described in Coxe'a 
work on American Fruits, as worthy of general cultivation. 

8. Pippin, Sudlow's Fall.— To distinguish it from the last, it bears the name 
of its introducer, John Sudlow, Esq., of Thames Ditton. Fruit small, about two 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



451 



Indies in diameter each way ; eye large, with a wide shallow cavity, surrounded 
by regular folds or plaits ; skin yellow, partially tinged with green, the whole 
sprinkled with minute brown spots; flesh inclining to yellow, crisp, very juicy, 
with a rich pleasant acidity. It ripens in November. 

9. Pippin, Balgonie. — An esteemed Scotch fruit, and known by the name of 
the Fife golden pippin. Is supposed to have been the original golden pippin im- 
ported from England about the time that that esteemed fruit was in its perfection. 
It inherits every virtue and property of the old golden pippin. Fruit middle-sized, 
round, yellow and green ; flesh firm, juicy, and aromatic ; keeps from October till 
May. Tree a great bearer, and hardy. 

10. Pippin, Lemon. — Fruit large, oval, golden yellow; flesh firm and juicy; 
keeps from October till March. Tree rigorous, and a great bearer 

11. Pippin, Ribston. — Originated at Ribston Hall, in Yorkshire, in 17C0. 
One of the finest fruits we have ; rather above the middle size, round, and flattened ; 
green, or dark green, when upon a standard, or much shaded ; yellow and bright 
red, when upon a wall. In Scotland, it is often planted upon the best walls, and 
becomes a fruit of the first class. Upon standards, it fruits freely ; being, in all situ- 
ations, a great bearer. Keeps from November till March, and sometimes longer. 
It is not so fine a fruit when grown in England. 

12. Pippin, Newtow.v. — Supposed to be of American origin, and by some to be 
originally from Devonshire. Much esteemed in America, and known by the name 
of Reinetie de Canada, as well as Neivtoiun Pippin. It was brought here from Ame- 
rica, in 1790. Fruit large, conical, yellow and red next the sun, greenish yellow 
where shaded. When much exposed, becomes almost red next the sun, and a 
beautiful golden colour when partially shaded ; flesh firm, and flavour aromatic. 
Should be gathered before it becomes too ripe ; if kept too long, is apt to become 
mealy; keeps from November till January, Healthy tree, and middling bearer. 

13. Pippin, French, or Pigconette de Roiv. — A French apple. Fruit middle- 
size, conical, dark red and yellow; flesh firm and aromatic; keeps from October 
till March. Tree indifterent bearer; habit weak and pendulous. 

14. Pippin, Borsdorf, or German Queen's Pippin. — A much-esteemed fruit in 
Germany. Fruit middle size, conical, yellow and green ; an excellent table fruit ; 
flesh firm and aromatic ; keeps from September till February. Tree healthy, and 
middling bearer. 

15. Pippin, New Red, New Scarlet. — Fruit beautiful and middle-sized ; color 
dark red next the sun, yellowish where shaded ; keeps till March. Tree middling 
bearer. 

16. Pippin, Dalmahoy. — An esteemed Scotch fruit ; rather smallish, round, and 
green; flesh firm and aromatic; excellent table fruit; keeps from November till 
May. Tree slender, hardy, and a great bearer. 

17. Pippin, Kenti-sh, Old Kentish Apple.— old variety. Fruit large, conical, 
yellow and red ; flesh firm and sweet. Tree luxuriant grower, and good bearer. 
Keeps from December till March. 

18. Pippin, Orleans.— Fruit snwiU, flat, dark red, resembling Orleans plums; 
flesh firm and juicy ; keens from October till February. Tree slender. 

19. Pippin, Yellow Ingestrie.— Resembles the golden pippin. A seedling, 
rose in 1800, by Knight. Fruit middle-sized, round, and yellow ; flesh firm and 
juicy. Tree large and handsome. Fruit keeps from October till February. 

20. Pippin, Red Ingestrie.— Also resembles the golden pippin; a seedling, 
rose in 1800, by Knight. Fruit middle size, round, red; flesh firm and juicy; 
Keeps from October till February. Tree large and handsome. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENKR. 



The yellow and red Ingestrie Pippins sprang from two seeds of the same appl«', 
whicli occupied the same cell; thcir names are derived from Ingestrie, the seat 
of the Karl Talbot. The Grange Apple and Downton Pippin also gprang fr«ii,\ 
tlic same parents with the Ingestrics; from the seed* of the orange pippin, and 
pollen pf the golden pippin. The original trees are at Wornisley Grange, Here- 
fordshire. 

21. Pirpiv, OsLiN, Original Pippin, Arbroath Pippin. — Supposed to have bee^ 
first brought from France by the monks settled at Arbroath, in Scotland, at th 
early period of the building of, or probably soon after that celebrated abbey wa 
built. It is supposed to be the aurea mala, or original golden apple. Fruit niiddl 
size; greenish yellow when shaded, golden yellow when exposed to the sun ; flesh 
softish, and very juicy; is not a good keeper. In favourable soils is a great bearer. 
Much esteemed in Scotland. 

22. Pippin, P.^dley's. — SeedUng, rose in 1800. Fruit oval, prickly, and freckled; 
flesh richly perfumed ; keeps from September till February. Tree hardy, and a 
good bearer. 

23. Pippin, Queen's. — Fruit small, round, yellowish green; flesh firm and 
aromatic ; keeps from January till May. Tree weakly ; middling bearer. 

24. Pippin, Kikkton, Crackled Pippin.— K Scotch apple. Fruit flat, middle- 
sized, gold and russet ; flesh firm and sweet ; keeps from September till January. 
Tree a good bearer, small and hardy. 

25. Pippin, Fearn's. — Fruit small, conical, scarlet and yellow; flesh firm, 
juicy, and aromatic; keeps from October till March. Tree an indifferent bearer, 
and of slender habit. 

26. Pippin, Orange. — A Herefordshire fruit. Fruit middle-size, conical, gold 
and red; showy at table; flesh firm, juicy, and sweet; keeps from October till 
March. Tree large and very luxuriant; middling bearer. 

27. Pippin, Lisbon. — Fruit middle-sized, conical, red next the sun, red and 
yellowish where partially shaded ; flesh firm and rather sharp ; keeps from Novem- 
ber till February. Tree hardy and large; good bearer. 

28. Pippin, Gooak. — Originated at Gogar, an ancient seat near Edinburgh. 
Fruit middle-sized; an excellent table apple; keeps very late. Tree hardy, free 
grower, and good bearer. 

29. Pippin, Cockle's. — Fruit small, round, russct-wlute where exposed, red and 
vcllow where less exposed ; flesh firm and sweet ; in eating from January till April, 
Tree of humble growth, and a middling bearer. 

30. Pippin, Paradise. — Fruit middle size and flat, red and green; flesh firm 
and juicy ; mealy when too ripe; keeps from October till February. Tree smallish ; 
a good bearer. 

31. Pippin, New England. — An American fruit, introduced in 1780. Fruit 
large, angular, green and brown ; flesh firm and sweet ; keeps from Octuber till March. 
Tree large and vigorous, ami a good bearer. 

32. Pippin, North's New Scarlet. — A seedling, recommended by the Hort. 
Soc. Fruit middle-sized, round, gold and pale red ; flesh firm a^d aromatic; keeps 
from October till March. Tree healthy, and middling bearer. 

33. Pippin, Kinc; of the Pippins. — Fruit large, conical, gold streaked, while, 
and red; a beautiful fruit ; flesh firm and juicy; in eating from January till March. 
Hardy upright growing tree, and an excellent bearer. 

31. Pippin, Whitmorc. — Fruit large, round, streaked white, red, and ytllow; 
handsome fruit; flesh firm and sweet; keeps from November till May. Tree luxu- 
riant, au<3 an excellent bearer. 



HE tnUlT GARDEN. 



453 



35 Pippin, Brindgwood. — A seedling, rose in 1800, by Knight. Frutt small, 
round reddish green ; flesh rich and sweet; keeps from September till March. Tree 
hardy, ana good bearer. This variety sprang from the golden pippin and golden 
Harvey. 

3G. Pippin, Wormsly. — Recommended in Hort. Trans. Fruit small, flat, green 
and yellow; a valuable addition to our gardens; flesh firm and juicy; keeps from 
October till February. Tree hardy, and a great bearer. 

37. Pippin, Wood's New Transparent, Wood's Huntingdon. — From seed of 
the gulden pippin, rose at Huntingdon in 1798. Fruit small, flat, green and yellow; 
flesh firm and juicy ; keeps from October till March. Tree hardy, and great 
bearer. 

In the Catalogue of the Horticultural Society of London, are enumerated 1G3 
sorts of Pippins; of these IS are varieties of the golden pippin. We avoid enu- 
merating names only ; and as no description is given of them, we must refer the 
enquiring reader to tbat Catalogue. 

DESSERT PEARMAINS. 

38. Pearmain, Summer. — Fruit middle-sized ; conical, green striped with red; 
flesh soft, juicy, and sweet, having rather a peculiar flavor from almost every other 
apple. In use from August till October; should be eaten soon after gathering ; soon 
gets mealy by keeping. Tree hardy, and a good bearer. 

39. Pearmain, Loans. — An esteemed apple in Scotland, as well as the last. 
Fruit larger than the last, oval, dull green where shaded, brilliant red where exposed 
to the sun ; flesh firm and sharp ; keeps from September till May. Tree middle 
size, and a good bearer. 

40. Pearmain, Spanish. — Fruit middle size, oblong and showy, dark red; 
flesh firm and sharp ; keeps from September till May. Tree large, and a good 
bearer. 

41. Pearmain, Kirk's Scarlet.— Fruit middle size, oval, scarlet where ex- 
posed to the sun, red and yellow where more shaded; flesh firm and juicy; is an 
excellent fruit; keeps from October till June. Tree rather slender, and a middUng 
bearer. 

42. Pearmain, Golden. — Fruit large, roundish, deep red where exposed to the 
sun, and yellowish in the shade; an excellent fruit; keeps from August till October. 
Tree large, and a good bearer. 

43. Pearmain, Lamb Abbey. — Supposed from seeds of the Newtown pippin, in 
1805; recommended in the Hort. Trans., where it is figured. Fruit rather large, 
oval or pyramidal, yellow, green, and spotted red towards the sun ; flesh crisp and 
aromatic; an exceedingly fine fruit; keeps from September till April. Tree luxuriant 
ajid haadsome ; good bearer. 

44. Pearmain, Old English. — Fruit middle-sized, conical, red and yellow; 
flesh firm and juicy; in eating from January till March. Tree middle-sized, and 
great bearer. 

45. Pearmain, Kernel.— Fruit small, oval, streaked white and red; flesh firm 
and juicy ; in eating from January till May. Tree rather tender, middling bearer. 

la the Catalogue of the Horticultural Society, there are enumerated 33 sorts of 
pearn ains. 

DESSERT NONPAREILS. 

46. Nonpareil, Scarlet. — From seed at Esher, about 1780, in the garden of 
a small public-house; first cultivated in the London nurseries by Grimwood. Fruit 



Tin: PRACTICAL CARDENTR. 



niiildle-sizcJ, flattened, russet and red; flesh firm and juicy ; like all the other non- 
pareils lii;?li flavored; in catin{; from September till March. Tree hardier than 
any of the other sorts, a great bearer: all this division requires a wall in most 
situations. 

47. Nonpareil, Pitmaston. — From seed, in 1815. Fruit about the general size 
of the others in this division, and like them, flat and compressed, dull green, russet, 
and yellow; flesh firm, juicy, and aromatic; keeps from October till May. Tree 
slender taigged, often not ripened to the extremities of the shoots; a good 
bearer. 

48. Nonpareil, Early. — Fruit small, fl.it, reddish russet; flesh firm and juicy ; 
is in eating from September till Fetruary. Tree tender; a good bearer. 

49. Nonpareil, Wright's. — Fruit large, flattened, brownish green ; flesh firm 
and aromatic; keeps from November tillJune. Tree a great bearer, delicate, and 
makes very small wood. 

50. Nonpareil, Royal. — Fruit small, flattish, green and red; flesh firm and 
juicy ; in eating from January till April. Tree slender twigged ; a great bearer. 

51. Nonpareil, M'Donald's. — From seed, rose in the Dalkeith gardens about 
1806; much esteemed in Scotland. Fruit small, round, (the only round one in this 
division,) fine eye, greenish and red ; flesh firm, quick, and acid; keeps from Decem- 
ber till April. Tree hardier than any of the nonpareils. 

In the Horticultural Society's Catalogue, there are enumerated 30 sorts of noti- 
pareils. 

DESSERT RUSSETS. 

52. Russet, Dredge's. — Fruit small, round, russet streaked with red; flesh 
firm and juicy ; keeps from November till July. Tree hardy, middle size, and 
good bearer. 

53. Rlsset, Letiiercoat, lioyal Itussct.— Fruit \arge, round, ruisset and red; 
flesh firm and aromatic ; keeps from October till .April. Tree hardy, large growing, 
and a great bearer. 

In the Horticultural Society's Catalogue, there are enumerated 29 russeti. 

DESSERT RENNETS. 

54. Rennet, Golden, Rc'meite ilor^c. — Of French origin. Fruit middle-sized, 
flattish, red and yellow; flesh firm and juicy; showy fruit; keeps from September 
till February. Tree middle-sized, and a good bearer, 

55. Rennet, Hollow-eyed, Corn tra//.— Fruit small, flattish, green, yellow, 
and russet; flesh firm and aromatic; a much-esteemed fruit ; keeps from October 
till April. 

56. Rennet, Grey, Grise. — Of French origin. Fruit middle-sized, round, grey; 
flesh firm and sweet ; keeps from October till March. Tree middle-sized, and a 
good bearer. 

In the Horticultural Society's Catalogue, are enumerated 82 rennets. 

DESSERT CALVELLES. 

57. Calvell, Summer Red. — Fruit small, oval, reddish white ; flesh soft, juicy, 
and sweet ; keeps from September till November. Tree hardy, middle size, great 
bearer. 

58. Calvell, Summer White. — Fruit small, oval, whitish green; flesh soft, 
juicy, and acid ; keeps from September till tl>e end of October. Tree hard/, middle 
size, great bcai'er. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



455 



59. Calvell, Autumn, CalvlUe d'Autoinnc.—Yrwii large, oblong, reddish brown; 
flesh crisp, juicy, and vinous ; much esteemed in France ; keeps from October till 
January. Tree hardy, and good bearer. 

In the Horticultural Society's Catalogue, are enumerated 11 calvelles. 

DESSERT QUEENINGS. 

60. QuEENixo, Summer. — An esteemed Scotch apple. Fruit middle-sized, often 
large, much angled, greenish white, becoming dark, as if bruised, when over ripe ; 
soft and very juicy ; tlavor excellent ; ripe in August or September ; keeps only a 
few days. Tree harJ.y, and a great bearer. 

61. Queening, Kernel. — Fruit large, angled, deep red and white; flesh firm 
and tender; an excellent cider as well as dessert fruit ; keeps from October till April, 
free hardy, and great bearer. 

In the Horticultural Society's Catalogue, are enumerated seven qucenings. 

DESSERT CODLINGS. 

62. Codling, Spring Grove. — Fruit small, conical, pale green ; flesh soft an 1 
uicy ; keeps from July till September. Tree hardy, and a great bearer. 

DESSERT SORTS, 
With Names either Descriptive^ Arbitrary, Local, or Indicative. 

63. Alexander. — A Russian or Ukraine fruit. A magnificent fruit, often 16 
inches by U inches in circumference, and weighs 19 ounces ; of an obtuse conic 
shape, delicate red and green color ; flesh firm and vinous ; keeps from November 
till January. Tree middling large, very hardy, and tolerable bearer. 

64. Aromatic Apple. — Is said to have been an inhabitant of Cornwall for cen- 
turies, though little known out of that county. The tree is an excellent bearer, 
and the fruit keeps till returning summer. The trees generally show marks of age 
and decay. 

65. Beauty of Kent. — Fruit large, conical, red next the sun, red and yellow 
streaked where more shaded; flesh firm, vinous; very showy fruit; keeps from Sep- 
tember till April. Tree large and hardy, and a good bearer. 

66. Belle Grisseldine.— Of French origin. Fruit middle-sized, flattish, yellow 
and red ; flesh firm and juicy; very showy fruit; keeps from September till March. 
Tree spreading, hardy for a French fruit, and a middling bearer. 

67. Brown Bi knt-islanp, Brown i/wr/i-Ho/^— Originated from seed in Scotland, 
in 17G0. Fruit small, conical, pale green; flesh soft and juicy ; propagates freely by 
cuttings; keeps from September till January. Tree middle-sized, and a great 
bcArer. 

68. Black.— Fruit middle size, conical, dark mahogany color; flesh firm and 
sweet; singular fruit; keeps from September till April. Great bearer. 

69. Best-poole,5«s, or licssy-pool. — Of Welch origin. Fruit middle size, round, 
pale green and red ; flesh firm, crisp, and vinous ; in eating from January till April. 
Tree h irdy, and a great bearer. 

70. Bacur's fine Small.— Fruit small, oval, red and green; flesh firm and 
juicy ; in eating from January till Ni'ay. Tree slender and spreading ; great bearer. 

71. Brandy Apple, Gulden Ilarvcy. — Fruit small, resembling a golden pippin 
in shape, yellowish russet color, fine flavor ; in use from January till March. Is 
much esteemed in Hercrordsliirc, where it has been long cultivated. Tree hand- 
some habit, and extremely hardy. 



456 



Tin: rUACTICAL GARDENER. 



72. Carnation. — Fruit middle size, oval, when exposed to the sun is a hand- 
some showy fruit, green and red striped with carnation ; flesh firm and vinous ; 
keeps till May. . Tree large, and a good bearer. 

73. Cadbury Pound. — Fruit middling size, oblong, pale green; esteemed a 
good fruit ; keeps from November till March. Tree free grower, and great bearer. 

74. CiiARTERAUX CouRT Pendu. — Of French origin. A fine-flavored fruit, 
beautiful carmine next the sun, often striped with yellow and snowy white when 
shaded; flesh very tender and juicy ; should be eaten off the tree. A good bearer, 
little known in England, much cultivated in Scotland, both as espalier and standard; 
keeps only a few weeks. 

75. Court Pendu, White, Corps Pcndu, or Ilanpng Body. — Fruit middle- 
sized, long, yellowish, hanging downwards (from thence the name) ; flesh firm and 
sugary ; is in eating from January till March. Tree spreading ; a good bearer. 

76. Dredge's Fame. — Originated from seed in Wiltshire, about 1770. Fruit ra- 
ther large, round and flattened, greenish yellow where shaded, and streaked with 
red where exposed to the sun ; flesh firm, highly aromatic ; an esteemed fruit : 
keeps from November till March. Tree forming a handsome outline, and a great 
bearer. 

77. Dredge's FairMaid.— Another Wiltshire esteemed fruit, where it originated 
from seed about 17G5, and is there known by that name, or Dredges Fair Maid oj 
Wishford. Fruit middle-sized, rather round, green where shaded, where exposed 
beautifully striped with red; flesh firm and tender; keeps from November till March. 
Tree handsome, and is a great bearer. 

78. Dredge's Queen Charlotte. — Another Wilishire fruit, where it originated 
from seed about 1770. Fruit middle-sized, oval, and flatii>h, gold color and red; 
flesh firm, and highly aromatic; keeps till February. Tree middle-size, hardy, and 
is a great bearer. 

70. Dredge's Beauty of Wilts. — Another Wiltshire fruiu Fruit rather large, 
fine bright yellow, spotted red towards the sun. Is one of our finest appU s, in point 
of general utility ; keeps good for the table till March. 

80. Dredge's White Lily. — A beautiful apple, of exceedingly high flavor, and 
keeps good for the table till March. Originated in Wiltshire about 1750. 

81. Elton's Yellow Kernel. — Fruit middle size, round, yellow; handsome 
good table fruit ; keeps till March. Tree free grower, and great bearer. 

82. Esorus SriTZEMDERO Apple. — Of American origin; of so much excellence 
tliat it may well deserve the protection of a south wall, without which it is probable 
it will not succeed in this climate. Fruit large, form oblong, skin smo(/th and fair; 
the color a lively and brilliant red, approaching to scarlet, w ith many small yellow 
spots; flesh yellow, juice rich; is in maturity about Christmas. 

83. Fameuse, or Snow jlppk. — Introduced by Mr. Barclay, of Drompton, in 
1790, from Canada. Fruit large, conical, dark red and yellow ; flesh soft, white 
as snow, and juicy ; keeps from October till February. Tree hardy, and a great 
bearer. 

84. Fennouillet Gris, Powjotc d'Anis, Fennel, Auisc, ox Anise Appk. — Of French 
origin. Fruit middle-sized, of a grey color; flesh tender, and has a spicy taste like 
anise-seed; is ripe in September and October; does not keep. Tree small, but a 
good bearer; exceedingly well calculated for growing in pots, or vases. 

85. Fig-apple. — Fruit small, oval, greenish yellow, fig-shaped (from thence the 
name) ; flesh crisp and sweet; is in eating from September till January. Tree very 
dwarf, and is a great bearer. 

86. Flower of Kent. — Fruit lar^c, round, yellow, showy; flesh ten.lcr and 
vinous; keeps from September till April. Tree strong grower, and a good bearer. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



457 



87. Gloucestershire Creeper. — Fruit small, conical, light green; flesh soft 
and svvccl ; keeps from August till December. Tree readily propagated by cuttings 
or layers ; great bearer. 

88. Golden Harvey.— See Brandy Apple. 

89. Golden Knob. — An English seedling. Fruit small, roundish, gold and russet ; 
flesh firm aiul juicy; keeps from October till April. Tree hardy. 

90. GoDOLPHiN. — Originated in Lord Godolphin's garden in 1792. Fruit large, 
oblong, streaked with white, red, and yellow ; very beautiful ; flesh firm and acid. 
Tree large, and a good bearer. 

91. GiLLVi LOWER. — Fruit large, oval, greenish where shaded, yellow and red 
next the sun ; beautiful ; flesh crisp and vinous ; keeps from September till March. 
Tree middlc-!>i/.cd, and a good bearer. 

92. GoLDEM Gloucester. — Fruit middle-sized, golden yellow where shaded, red 
towards the sun ; keeps till March. 

93. Gravenstein Apple. — This is esteemed the best apple in Germany and the 
Low Countries, and is well entitled to the high reputation it has acquired. Resem- 
bles the Ribstoti pippin in size, and not unlike it in form. Ripens in October, and 
will keep till December, and may be fairly considered a rival to our Ribston pippin. 
The figure in this work was taken from a tree in the private garden of Mr. Lee, of 
the Hammersmith nursery, by Mr. Hart, Jun. The name is derived from Graven- 
stein, a ducal estate in Sleswick, and was first described by Hirschfeld. It is sup- 
posed to have been accidentally raised from seed in the gardens of the Duke of 
Augustenbcrg, in Holstein, although some suppose it to be of Italian origin. It is 
highly esteemed all over the north of Europe, and by them considered one of their 
best sorts. Fruit generally round, somewhat flattened, rather angular on the sides, 
eye sunk in a deep cavity, surrounded by several projecting folds or knobs ; stalk 
very short, deeply inserted; skin smooth, of a fine clear straw color, streaked with 
red where exposed to the sun ; flesh of a pale yellow color, not very fine in texture, 
juicy, and with a high vinous, sweet taste. 

91. Hall-door.— An esteemed Kentish apple. Fruit large, flat, yellowish green 
where ihaded, streaked with red towards the sun ; flesh firm, acid ; in eating from 
January till March. Tree vigorous, and a great bearer. 

95. Hubbard's Apple. — A Norfolk apple. Fruit middle-sized, not handsome, is 
notwitlistiinding one of our best table apples ; is in eating from January till April. 

9G. JuNE-EATtNO, Jetietin, Gencton. — Fruit small, roundish, yellow, sometimes 
reddish; flesh tender and juicy, rather sharp when not ripe; is apt to get mealy if 
over-ripe; should be eaten from the tree. Is one of our earliest fruits, and keeps 
for a week or so good. Tree of humble growth, suited for forcing or planting in 
pots ; great bearer. Is ripe often in the end of June (hence the name), and always 
in the beginning of July. 

97. July Flower Apple. — An excellent Cornish apple. Fruit conical, color yel- 
lowish green, red towards the sun ; leaves remarkably long and narrow. Tree luxuriant 
aiul irregular, not easily-trained ; the fruit, when cut, emits an agreeable perfume. 

98. Julien, or Early Jm//V7i.— Introduced by Mr. H. Ronalds, from Scotland. Is 
a very excellent early variety, ripening in the beginning of August. Middle size, 
of an irregular form, with many ribs or angles on the sides, which become very pro- 
minent round the eye ; skin of a uniform pale yellow ; flesh approaching to yellow, 
firm and crisp, having much the highest flavor of any of our early apples. 

99. L \dv's Finger. — An esteemed Scotch apple. Fruit middle-sized, conical, 
rather long, approaching to cylindrical, yellowish where shaded, reddish where ex- 
posed to the sun ; flesh delicate, juicy, and high flavored ; keeps from October till 
DeceniU r. Tree rather small, pyramidal or upright, and a good bearer. 

3 N 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



100. LoNG-LASTER. — Fruit midiilc-sized, angular, fine yellow where shaded 
beautiful reddish color next the sun ; keeps till the middle of May. 

101. Margill. — An Oxfordshire apple. Fruit small, roundish, red and yellow ; 
highly esteemed fruit; flesh firm and aromatic; keeps from Noveml>er till March. 
Tree small, delicate-twigged, and a great bearer. Is often sold in the London mar- 
ket for a nonpareil, which it much resembles. 

102. Margaret Apple, Red June-eating. — Fruit small, conical, yellow where 
shaded, streaked with red towards the sun ; flesh sweet and tender, ripens in the 
en 1 of July, or beginning of September, and keeps for a few weeks. Tree hardy, 
making small willow-like shoots ; is nearly as great a bearer as the comu>on June- 
eating. 

' 103. Nonsuch. — .\n esteemed Scotch apple, where it is often grown upon walls. 
Fruit middle size, green where shaded, beautifully striped with brownish red where 
exposed to the sun; flesh firm, juicy, wiih a pleasant acid; ripens in September, 
and keeps till October or November. Is more apt to shrirel in keeping than almost 
any other apple. Tree free grower, and a good bearer. 

101. Oak I'eg, Oaken Peg. — Fruit middle-sized, oval, green and white streaked ; 
flesh firm and juicy; is in eating from January till July. Tree rather twiggy, 
hardy, and a middling bearer. 

105. Ord ArPLE. — Originated about thirty years ago, by John Ord, Esq., at Pur- 
ser's Cross, near Fulham, from the seed of the Newtown pippin, imported from 
America; is often sold in the London nurseries under the name of Newtown pippin. 
The fruit, although without any external beauty, is remarkably good, and posscssei 
the property of a melting softness in eating, so that it nnght be said to melt in the 
mouth. The original tree is now in a very dilapidated state (if alive). The climate 
of this country is not suflScicntly congenial to it. 

106. PoMROY, Ring Apple. — Of French origin. Fruit nn.iddlc-sized, round, grcea 
and yellow ; flesh soft and somewhat acid; is in eating from July to Septcml>er. 
Tree low spreading habit, and only a middling bearer. It has a sub-variety, which 
is a winter fruiL 

107. PoMME d'Apia, .Ipius's Apple, or Careless Apple. — A French fruit. Fruit very 
small, roundish, yellow in the shade, bright red next the sun ; fruit without seeds or 
cores ; flesh firin and juicy ; in eating from October till July. Tree small ; a great 
bearer. 

108. PoMME fiRisE. — An ,\mcrican apple, introduced from Canada about 17G0. 
Fruit middle-sized, flatllsh, of a russet color where shaded, beautiful red striped 
towards the sun ; is an excellent fruit, ripens late, and keeps till March. 

109. PoMME DE DEL X Anis, Apple of two Seasons. — Blossoms and fruits at the 
same time (thence the name). Fruit small, roundish, pale green ; flesh soft and 
sweet; in eating from September till January. Tree small; good bearer. 

110. PoMME ViOLLTTE, The J'tolet Apple. — Fruit large, pale green, striped with 
red towards the sun ; flesh juicy, sugary, partaking somewhat of the flavor of violets 
(from thence the name). Is in eating from October till February or March. Is ol 
French origin. Tree handsome, middle-sized, indiflcrcnt bearer. 

111. Poor Man's Profit. — Fruit below the middle size, oval, dingy colored; 
propagates by cuttings readily ; keeps till January. Tree hardy; very prolific 

112. Grey Leadington. — Fruit long, color when ripe yellowish green, hollow 
within, and when ripe the seeds make a rattling noise within, when shaken; good 
bearer, and tree extremely hardy ; is in eating from November till January. 

113. Quince Apple. — Fruit middle-sized, resembling a quince (from therKC the 
name), yellow, rather red towards the eye ; flesh firm, pleasant sharp flavor; is in 
eating from January till April. Tree middle-sized, and a good bearer. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



459 



114. Royal George. — Fruit large, oval, yeilow and green ; flesh firm and sugary; 
beautiful fruit ; keeps well ; is in eating from January till June. Tree handsome, 
and a great bearer. 

115. Red Bay. — An esteemed Herefordshire fruit. Fruit large, oblong, whitish 
^vhere shaded, streaked with red next the sun ; beautiful ; flesh firm and juicy ; keeps 
from October till March. Tree handsome, and great bearer. 

116. RiBSTON.— (See Pi>/3m, Ribston.) 

117. Syke-house. — A Yorkshire apple, from Syke-house In Yorkshire. Fruit 

niiadle-sized, orange towards the sun and sometimes inclining to red, yellow when 
much shaded; flesh firm and juicy ; keeps till April. Tree large and spreading, a 
great bearer. 

118. Spice Apple. — Fruit middle-sized, angular, yellow; flesh firm and sugary; 
in eating from January till March. Tree middle-sized ; great bearer. 

119. Skerm's Kernel. — Fruit middle-sized, beautifully streaked with red, deep- 
est towards the eye, and a good deal of yellow towards the foot-stalk ; conical ; flesh 
firm and aromatic; keeps from July till April. Tree large and much spreading; 
good bearer. 

120. Spanish Onion. — Fruit rather below the middle size, round, russet where 
shaded, dull red towards the sun ; flesh firm and sweet, an excellent fruit ; keeps 
from October till March. Tree hardy, spreading, and a good bearer. 

121. Transparent Apple. — Introduced from Russia. Is rather curious; is 
showy upon the table, but not good flavored. 

122. Ward. — Fruit under the middle size, flattish, fine red and yellow-green; 
flesh firm and juicy ; is in eating from January till July; a valuable apple. Tree 
slender, twiggy, and a good bearer. 

123. Wheeler's Extreme. — An English seedUng. Fruit under the middle size, 
flattish, russet in the shade, streaked with red towards the sun ; flesh crisp and 
sugary ; in eating from December till April, or later. Tree hardy, and a great 
bearer. 

124. White Must. — An esteemed Herefordshire fruit. Fruit middle-sized, 
greenish yellow, but red towards the sun; flavor rather tart, but agreeable; is in 
eating from January till April. 

125. Petit Jean Apple. — Introduced from Jersey, (where it appears to have 
been long cultivated and admired,) by General Le Couteur. Fruit oval, slightly 
flattened at both ends, eye small, placed in a confined cavity ; stalk short and deeply 
inserted ; color pale yellow where shaded, of a bright red where exposed to the sun ; 
flesh very white, extremely tender, with a mild and agreeable juice ; keeps till the 
end of the season. 



CULINARY OR KITCHEN APPLES. 

126. Pippin, Holland. — Middle-sized, flattish, of a yellow and green color; 
ripens in October, and keeps till April ; is a good bearer, and free growing tree. 

127. Pippin, London, Five-crowned Pippin. — Size large, of a round and rather 
flattened form ; color green, striped with red ; ripens in November, and keeps till 
April; a handsome spreading tree, and great bearer. 

128. Pippin, Pound. — Fruit large, conical; color greenish yellow; ripens in 
January, and keeps till April. Tree vigorous, with large leaves, a rather indifferent 
bearer. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



129. Pippin, Kehry. — Of Irisli origin. Middle-sized fruit, roundish ; color green- 
ish yellow; ripens in October, and keeps till February; described in the Mem. of 
the Caledonian Ilort. Soc. as a valuable fruit for kitchen purposes. 

l.')0. PiiM'iN, lIoLLOW-EYED. — Fruit niiddlc-sized, eye deep, and oval ; color yel- 
low streaked with red ; ripens in October, and keeps till June. Tree hardy, and 
a good bearer. 

131. Pippin, Spencer. — Fruit middle-sized, oblong; color yellowish green; 
ripens in December, and keeps till June. Tree hardy, and a free grower; good 
bearer. 

132. Pippin, Broad-eyed. — Fruit large, flat, having a broad eye; color greenish 
yellow; ripens in October, and keeps till May. Tree large and free grower; good 
bearer. 

133. Pippin, Bland's Summer. — Fr\iit middle-sized, oval-shaped; color gold 
and green; ripens in September, and keeps till January. Tree hardy, and a good 
bearer. 

134. Pippin, William's.— Originated about 1800. Fruit large for a pippin; 
merits not sufficiently known. 

135. Pippin, Lucas. — Fruit middle-sized, cylindrical; color orange; very showy; 
ripens in October, and keeps till May. Tree a good bearer, and of a handsome 
spreading form. 

136. Pippin, Carberry. — Fruit large, oval; color deep green and red; ripens 
in October, and keeps till March. Tree hardy, of a spreading habit; great bearer. 

137. Pippin, Russet. Gny Pippin, Brown Pippin. — Fruit middle-sized, round- 
ish ; color gold and russet ; ripens in October, and keeps till March. Tree hardy 
and upright ; good bearer. 

138. Pippin, Grlmas. — Fruit small, roundish; color yellow and green ; ripens 
in January, and keeps till April. Tree a good bearer, but rather delicate. 

139. Pippin, Carcey. — Fruit below the middle size ; form conical; color green, 
yellow, and red; ripens in November, and keeps till May. Tree free grower, and a 
good bearer. 

140. Pippin, Isle of Wight. — Fruit middle-sized, roundish; color greenish 
yellow ; ripens in October, and keeps till March. Tree hardy, and a good bearer. 

141. Pippin, Griddleton, or Gridleston. — Fruit large, angular; color green; 
ripens in October, and keeps till March. Tree of vigorous growth ; a good bearer. 

142. Pippin, Pearson's. Nottingham Apple. — Originated about 17S0. Fruit 
small, roundish ; color yellow and gold ; ripens in December, and keeps till April, 
but becomes dry and mealy in March. Tree a good bearer, and of a free upright 
habit. 

143. Pippin, Warwickshire. War wicl; Golden Pippin. — Fruit small, round; 
color gold and green, much resembling the golden pippin ; ripens in November, and 
keeps till March. Tree delicate, slender-twigged, a good bearer; the fruit lit either 
for the table, kitchen, or cider. 

144. Pearmain, Royal. — Fruit large, roundish: color red and yellowish greeny 
ripens in November, and keeps till June. Tree middle-sized, free grower, and a 
great bearer. 

145. Pearmain, Herefordshire. — Fruit large, round; color pale green and 
spotted ; ripens in October, and keeps till April. Tree hardy, grows to a large size; 
good bearer. 

146. Pearmain, Winter. — Often known by the same name as the last ; originated 
in Herefordshire. Fruit middle-sized, oval; color green and red; ripens io Sep- 
tember, and keeps till May ; a much-esteemed fruit. Tree large, and a great bearer. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



461 



147. Pearmain, Cornish. — Fruit middle-sized, rather long; color dull green on 
one side, and russet on the other ; ripens in December, and keeps till April. 

148. Pearmain, Bell's. — Fruit middle-sized, oblong; color dullgieen and rus- 
set; ripens in October, and keeps till May. Tree handsome and free grower; a 
great bearer. 

149. Pearmain, Red. — Fruit small, oval ; color deep red and yellow ; ripens in 
October, and keeps till April ; fruit excellent. Tree handsome, and great bearer. 

150. Peaumain, Baxter's. — Fruit large, oblong; color green and red ; ripens iu 
October, and keeps till June. Tree handsome, and a good bearer. 

151. Pearmain, Pickering's. — Fruit small, oval; color green, striped with red ; 
ripens in October, and keeps till March. Tree hardy, and a good bearer. 

152. Rennet, Kitchen. — An esteemed Lincolnshire apple. Fruit large, oval; 
color greenish red. Tree hardy, with slender twigs ; a great bearer. 

153. Rennet, Lincolnshire. — Another esteemed fruit of the same county. 
Fruit large, obtusely conical ; color brownish green ; ripens in December, and keeps 
till July. Tree vigorous, with large leaves ; a great bearer. 

154. Rennet, Lord Camden's. — Fruit large, of a flattened oval form ; color 
russet and red ; ripens in October, and keeps till April ; a much-esteemed fruit. 
Tree handsome, and pretty good bearer. 

155. Rennet, Monstrous. — Fruit very large, oblong; color red and dark green. 
15G. Rennet, English. — Fruit middle size, oval; color yellowish green ; ripens 

in October, and keeps till March. Tree free grower, and good bearer. 

157. Rennet, Trevoider. — Fruit small, round; color yellow and red ; ripens 
in December, and keeps till May. Tree very hardy. 

158. Rennet, Mother. — Fruit middle-sized, round; color yellow and brown; 
ripens in November, and keeps till March ; an esteemed fruit. Tree hardy, and a 
good bearer. 

159. Rennet, Spice. — Fruit small, round ; color green and red ; ripens in Oc- 
tober, and keeps till March. 

160. Rennet, French. Jflntc Rcnuet. — Fruit large and roundish ; color pale 
yellow, beautifully striped with red when exposed to the sun ; ripens in October, 
and keeps till February, and sometimes till March. Tree delicate, but a good 
bearer; better suited for an espalier than a standard in most situations, but not 
sufficiently valuable for a w;>ll. 

161. Rennet, Canadian. — Fruit large, oval; color pale green ; ripens in No- 
vember, and keeps till February. Tree hardy, and vigorous in growth. 

162. Rennet, Dwarf. Grey Rennet. — Fruit middle size, round; color grey, 
or greyish white ; ripens in November, and keeps till March. 

163. Russet, Acklam's.— A Yorkshire apple. Fruit middle-sized ; color russet 
next the sun, and yellow on the shaded side ; ripens in January, and keeps till 
March. 

164. Russet, Golden. — Fruit middle size, round; color yellow russet ; rii^ens 
in October, and keeps till May. Tree hardy and spreading ; a good bearer. 

165. Russet, Sharp's. — Fruit below the middle size ; form approaching to the 
frustum of a cone ; color brown and red streaked ; ripens in October, and keeps till 
May. Tree upright while young, spreading when old ; a good bearer. 

16G. Russet, Wheeler's. — Fruit middle-sized, roundish; color brown russet; 
ripens in November, and keeps till April ; a g lod fruit. Tree upright, twigs slen- 
der, a good bearer, 

167. Russet, Cornish.— Fruit below the middle size, flat and roundish; color 
russet and somewhat green, particularly where shaded ; ripens in January, and 
keeps till June ; a valuable fruit. Tree growing rather upright ; a good bearer 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



168. Russet, Drkdoe's.— Frnit below the middle size; color greenish i usaet ; 
ripens in November, and keeps lill July. 

IGU. Russet, Wine. — Fruit middle size, conical; color dark russet; ripens in 
December, and keeps till May ; a good fruit. Tree upright and slender ; a good 
bearer. 

170. Russet, Adams'. — A Yorkshire apple. Fruit small, round; color russet 
and yellow ; ripens in January, and keeps till March. Tree vigorous and spreading; 
a good bearer. 

J71. Russet, Great. — Fruit large, roundish; color russet, streaked with red; 
ripens in December; keeps till March. Tree hardy, and a good bearer. 

172. Russet, Caraway. — Fruit small, roundish ; color russet and yellow ; ripens 
in January, and keeps till May. Tree hardy, but with slender twigs; an indif- 
ferent bearer. 

173. Russet, Pile's.— Fruit middle-sized, round and flat; ripens in December, 
and keeps till May ; a much-esteemed fruit. Tree hardy, and a great bearer. 

174. Russet, Harvey's. — Fruit large, oval; color green russet; ripens in De- 
cember, and keeps till May. Tree upright in growth, and a great bearer. 

175. Codling, French. — Fruit large, conical, and ribbed; color yellowish 
green ; ripens in August, and keeps till January. Tree hardy ; a great bearer ; and 
IS readily propagated by cuttings. 

17G. Codling, Keswick, Carlisle Codling. — Fruit small, but when a thin crop 
about the middle size, ribbed and conical ; color light green and w hite ; ripens in 
July, and w ill keep lill the beginning of December. Tree very hardy, and capable 
of being propagated by cuttings ; probably the most prolific apple we have. The 
fruit is used when very young, as well as when ripe. 

177. Codling, Hawthorn Dean, JVhite Apple of llauthoni Dean. — Is said to 
have been introduced by, or originated with, the celebrated Drunmiond, of Haw- 
thorn Dean, and takes the name of that romantic retreat on the river Esk, near 
Roshn, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh. Fruit large; color pale green, white 
where shaded, and beautifully striped w ith dehcate red where exposed to the sun ; 
ripens in .\ugust, and will keep till January ; but is apt to become shrivelled by the 
end of that month. Tree hardy, and, next to the last, the greatest bearer vre 
have. It is a great acquisition to the market-gardeners and fruit-growers. It is a 
hardy free grower, and not liable to diseases. It begins, like the last, to bear the 
second year after planting. Were they both better keepers, they might be termed 
the most useful apples we have. It thrives in any situation, and will do better in a 
north aspect than any other apple yet known. In the gardens of cottagers and arti- 
zans, both these apples should find a place. 

178. Codling, Stoup. — Fruit large, oblong, and ribbed; color pale green and 
red; ripens in October, and keeps till May ; a valuable fruiL Tree of great size, 
hanly, and u great bearer. 

179. Codling, Royal. — Fruit very large, conical, and ribbed; color whitish 
yellow ; ripens in September, but does not keep long. Tree a free grower, and a 
good bearer. 

180. Codling, Kentish, Bnrknott Codling. — Fruit below the middle size, 
conical; color pale green; ripens in .August, and keeps till January. Tree vigo- 
rous grower, and a great bearer 

181. Bigg's None-such.— Originated about 1750. Fruit middle size, conical; 
color yellow variegated with red ; ripens in September, and keeps till January. 
Tree free grower, and good bearer. 

182. Eve-Apple. — Of Irish origin. Fruit small, round; color red and green; 
ripens in October, and keeps till July. Tree hardy; capable of being propagated 
by ciittintjs. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



153. YoKKsiiiRE GftEENiNG.— Supposed to be originally from Yorkshire. Fruit 
above the middle size, conical; color dull red and green; ripens in January, and 
will keep till August, and sometimes longer. It is one of our most valuable kitchen 
apples, and succeeds well in almost all situations. Tree large and spreading, and 
is a very great bearer. 

154. BovEY Red-streak.— Fruit middle-sized, rather flattish ; color deep red 
and white ; ripens in January, and keeps till April ; is altogether a good fruit. Tree 
hardy, and a good bearer. 

185. LoNOLEAT Red-stkeak. — Originated in Wiltshire about 1785. Fruit 
middle-sized, round; color yellow streake.1 with red; ripens in September, and 
keeps only till October. Tree a free grower, and a great bearer. 

ISO. Nine-square.— Supposed to have originated in Gloucestershire, where it 
is still much admired. Fruit large, angular ; color red and yellow ; ripens in Oc- 
tober, and keeps till April. Tree hardy, and a good bearer. 

187. Minier's Dumpling.— Originated about 17G5. Fruit rather above the middle 
size, round, and flattened ; color deep gold and red ; ripens in December, and keeps 
till April. Tree middle-sized, and a good bearer. 

188. POMROY.— Fruit large, flattish ; color red and green ; very showy ; ripens 
in January, and keeps till March. Tree large, and a good bearer. 

189. Red Sweet. — A Cornwall fruit. Fruit small, oval ; color red and green 
yellow; ripens in November, and keeps till March. Tree of vigorous growth, and 
a middUng bearer. 

190. Norfolk Colman. — Fruit middle size, conical ; color mahogany and dark 
green ; ripens in December, and will keep till August. 

191. Norfolk Reaufin. — Fruit above the middle size, round and flattened; 
color deep red on the exposed side, pale green where shaded ; in use from Decem- 
ber till August. This is one of our most valuable kitchen apples, and possesses the 
properties of being a great bearer, excellent keeper, and good baker or boiler. Is 
much esteemed in Norfolk, and is there dressed in a peculiar manner. Tree suf- 
ficiently hardy to stand in any part of the kingdom, and not subject to diseases. 
Of all our keeping apples, none better merits a place in small gardens than this. 

192. Aromatic. — Fruit middle-sized, oval; color yellow and red; in use from 
December till May ; an esteemed apple. Tree rather slender, and only a middling 
bearer. 

193. Cat's Head. — An esteemed Scotch fruit. Large, oblong; color grey, yel- 
low generally ; but, when fully exposed to the sun, of a reddish cast ; ripens in 
January, and keeps till May. Tree vigorous, grows to a great size, and is an 
abund mt bearer. 

191. Baltimore. — Of American origin. Fruit very large, often fourteen or 
fifteen inches in circumference, and has been known to weigh above one pound and 
a half; color fine red and green ; a magnificent fruit, but, like most American 
apples, an indifferent bearer in this country ; with us the climate is not suitable to 
bring them to perfection. To use the words of a valued correspondent, it would be 
better not to plant any of the trees, and import the fruit. This observation may be 
iustly applied to nine-tenths of the apples and pears, in particular, lately introduced: 
a few of them may be planted ; but where the supply of a family or the market is 
an object, they cannot be depended upon ; one-half of them will not bear fruit in 
this climate, aeid the other half will only be eatable one season in five. 

195. CocKAGEE. — Fruit middle-sized ; colour red and yellow ; ripens in October, 
and will only keep till the middle or end of December. Tree of vigorous growth, 
and a great bearer. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



196. Duedge's Beauty of Wilts; Red Originated 141 Wiltshire about 
1750. Fruit above the midille size, oval; color bright yellow, spotted with red; 
in use from October till March. One of the best apples yet known, in point of 
general utility. Tree hardy, and a great bearer. 

197. Dumpling. — An old Norfolk fruit. Above the middle size, flattish, round; 
color greenish streaked with red, often much so ; keeps till March. Tree hardy, 
and a good bearer. (Not the dumpling apple of the Americans.) 

198. Hampshire No.ie-sucii. — Fruit large and conical; color green yellow, 
streaked with red ; in use from September till December ; a valuable fruiL Tree 
vigorous, and succeeds better upon chalky bottoms than most other apples ; is a 
great bearer. 

199. Fre-XCII Crap.. — Fruit large, oval; color deep green and red; will keep 
from one season to another ; a valuable fruit, and should have a place in every 
garden. Tree of a handsome upright habit, and a great bearer. 

200. Pigeonette. — Originally from Hrittany. Fruit below the middle size, 
conical ; color pale red, and showy ; ripens in October, and keeps till March. Tree 
hardy, with slender twigs; rather an indifferent bearef. 

201. Golden Mundi. — Fruit small, round; color green and red; ripens in 
October, and keeps till January. Tree spreading, of no great height, and a good 
bearer. 

202. Hedge. — Fruit middle size, conical; color red and straw ; in use frona Oc- 
tober till April. Tree upright in habit, and a good bearer. 

203. Golden Gloucester. — Fruit middle-sized, oval; color gold and red; in 
use from December till March. Tree hardy, of spreading habit; a good bearer. 

201. PoMME Grise. — Originally from Canada, about 1790. Fruit middle-sized, 
oval; color russet and red; ripens in September, and keeps till January. Tree of 
vigorous growth; like other American apples, with us an indifferent bearer. 

205. NoNE-sccir. — An esteemed Scotch fruit. Often there planted against walls 
(where it becomes an excellent table apple); upon standards middle-sized, roundish; 
color grass-green, where shad.d russet brown, often reddish where exposed to iho 
sun ; in use in September and Octoh r, when kept longer, becomes acid and shri- 
velled. Tree of slender habits, often having the extrem ties of the *hoots unripened; 
in such cases liable to canker; is a good bearer. It is said to afford a much less 
portion of sauce than most other apples. 

20G. Hallingbury. — Fruit large, flat, and much ribbed ; color red and yellow ; 
ripens in October, and keeps till Marclu Tree of vigorous growth, and but an 
indifferent bearer. 

207. Hubbard's Russet Pearmain. — Fruit above the middle sire, roundi>h; 
color dark russet; ripens in January, and keeps till April. Tree of upright habit, 
slender twigged, a middling bearer. 

20s. Long Laster.— Fruit middle-size>l, conical, rather angled ; color fine yellow 
and red; ripens in October, and keeps till May. 

209. Major Hemming. — Fruit middle-sized, round; color hght green and 
brown ; ripens in November, and keeps till March. 

210. Kirk's Seedling.— Originated with Mr. Joseph Kirk, of the Brompton 
Nursery, a well-known fruit-tree grower. Fruit large, round ; color red and yellow ; 
ripens in December, and keeps till May. Tree of vigorous growth, and a great 
bearer. 

211. Kentish Fill-basket. Kcnlish ro^f/iHo-.— Fruit large, conical ; color pile 
green ; ripens in August, and lasts till October. Tree a middling bearer. 



THE FRUIT G\RDEN. 



465 



212. MiNSHUL C HA B.— Originally from Lancashire. Fruit middle size, roundish ; 
color yellow, w ith brown spots ; ripens in September, and keeps till April. Tree 
vigorous grower, a great bearer, and valuable fruit. 

213. May Gennet. — Fruit below the middle size, conical; color green-yellow 
striped with red ; ripens in October, and keeps till April. 

214. Dyumuck Red. — Fruit below the middle size, round; color red and yel- 
low; ripens in January, and keeps till April. Tree hardy, of spreading habits, 
and a good bearer. 

215. Dutch Qukf.nikg. — Fruit large, oblong; color red and green; ripens in 
January, and keeps till March. Tree hardy, of spreading habit, and a great 
bearer. 

215. Ker.nel, Kedstreak. — Fruit middle size, conical; color red and yellow; 
ripens in December, and keeps till April. Tree handsome, forms leaves unusually 
broad;. a great bearer. 

217. Embuoujerei). — Fruit above the middle size, oval; with broad streaks of 
red; ripens in October, and keeps till February. Tree vigorous, with broad leaves; 
a good bearer. 

218. John. — A Devonshire and Herefordshire fruit, of middle size, and much 
esteemed both for cider, kitchen, and table. 

219. French Spaniard. — Fruit middle size. Tree indifferent bearer. 

220. Everlasting. — Fruit below the middle size, conical; streaked with green 
and red; ripens in October, and keeps till February. Tree hardy, twigs slender, 
and a good bearer. 

221. Green Dragon. — Originated at Enmore Castle, about 1780. Fruit large, of 
an hexagonal prism form ; color green and red ; ripens in September, and keeps 
till February. Tree vigorous, with rather broad leaves, rather an indifferent 
bearer. 

222. Herefordshire Red-streak. — Much cultivated in Herefordshire and 
the adjoining counties. Fruit middle-sized, oblong ; color green streaked with 
red ; ripens in January, and keeps till April. Tree vigorous, and a good bearer. 

223. Winter Box. — Fruit middle-sized, conical, rough ; color light green; ripens 
in December, and keeps till February. Tree hardy, twigs slender ; a good 
bearer. 

224. White .Must. — Another Herefordshire fruit of middling size, flattish ; 
color greenish yellow with red ; ripens in January, and keeps till June. Tree 
haroy, of spreading habit ; a good bearer. 

225. Long Seam. — Fruit large, angular; color light green ; ripens in November, 
and keeps till February. Tree hardy ; a good bearer. 

226. Old Red Must. — A Herefordshire fruit long in cultivation. Fruit large, 
oval; color pale red and green; ripens in January, and keeps till August. Tree 
hardy, with broad leaves ; great bearer. 

227. Winter Pomroy. — Fruit large, conical; color dark green striped with 
red; ripens in Oetobcr, and keeps till January. Tree hardy, upright, with broad 
leaves ; a good bearer. 

228. Lord Cheney's.— Originated about 1700, nmch resembling the Yorkshire 
Greening. Fruit middle-sized, conical ; color dark green and chocolate; ripens in 
December, and keeps till June. Tree hardy, free grower, leaves small ; a good 
bearer. 

229. Loud Ahundel. — Of French origin. Fruit large, angular; color green and 
dingy red; ripens in December,.and keeps till May. Tree having small leaves, of 
elegant outline ; rather an indifferent bearer. 

G O 



4GG 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



230. Tankerton. — Friiit large, conical ; color yellow, with a little red, particu- 
larly where exposed ; ripens in December, and keeps till February ; a valuable 
kitchen apple. Tree large, and a good bearer. 

231. Maiden's Blush. — Fruit large, angular; color green and dingy red; ripens 
in December, and keeps till May. Tree having small leaves, of eleg&nt form, but a 
very indiffercni bearer. 

232. Transparent Crab. — A Russian apple, often known by the name of the 
Moscow Apple. Fruit rather small, round; color transparent red; in use in Sep- 
tember and October. Tree very small ; a great bearer. The fruit much used for 
preserving. 

233. Spaniard. — Much cultivated in Cornwall, and said to have been originally 
brought from Spain. Fruit above the middle size, oblong; color greenish yellow ; 
ripens in December, and keeps till April. Tree delicate with us, and an indifferent 
bearer. Should only be planted in very favorable situations ; does not succeed in 
the north of England. 

234. PwvsAN. — Fruit below the middle size, conical; color greenish yellow; 
ripcoj IR December, and keeps till May. Tree vigorous, with broad leaves; a good 
bearer. 

235. Mansfield. — A Nottingham and Yorkshire apple. Fruit large, oblong; 
color green ana bright red, with dark spots; ripens in December, and keeps till 
February. Much esteemed as a cider apple. Tree hardy, spreading, and a great 
bearer. 

23G. Norfolk Paradise. — An apple much esteemed in Norfolk. Fruit large, 
round ; color pale red and green ; ripens in December, and keeps till February. 
Tree hardy, with broad leaves ; a great bearer. 

237. Gloucestershire Queening. — Fruit large, very irregularly ridged ; color 
dark red ; ripens in October, and keeps till April. Tree vigorous and spreading; a 
great bearer. 

238. New Red Must. — Fruit large, round ; color pale red and green ; ripens in 
December, and keeps till February. Tree hardy, and a good bearer. 

239. Dredge's Seedling. — Fruit large ; color yellowish green striped with red, 
particularly on the exposed side ; ripens in November, and keeps till January. 

210. Black Apple. — Fruit middle-sized ; of a dark mahogany color next the 
sun, but much lighter on the opposite side ; ripens in November, and keeps till 
April. 

211. RoOMREY. — Fruit above the middle size, flattish; color deep red externally, 
internally streaked with red also ; keeps till April; a good kitchen or cider apple, 
but not good for eating raw. 

242. Carnation Apple. — Fruit middle-sized; beautifully striped with red ; 
ripens in January, and keeps till May. 

243. July-flower. — Fruit middle-sized; color yellowish green; and beautifully 
striped with red towards the sun ; ripens in December, and keeps till March. 

244. IIagloe Crab. — Fruit below the middle size, conical shaped; color yel- 
lowish ; is ripe in Jaimary ; fit cither for baking or cider. 

245. Pomme Violette, Violet nipple. — Fruit above the middle size ; color pale 
green, striped with red towards the sun ; has much the smell of violets, from thence 
the name ; ripens in October, and keeps till February, or later. 

21G. Quince Apple. — Fruit middle-sized; color yellow, a little red towards 
the eye ; ripens in January, and lasts till April. 

247. Reg Bay. — An esteemed Herefordshire apple. Fruit large; beautifully 
streaked all over with red ; shape longish ; in use about t|ie end of October. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



467 



248. Seek no Farther.— Fruit above the middle size; color pale green, a 
Kttle streaked with red ; comes into use in January, and lasts till May, but becomes 
mealy by the beginning of April. 

249. Ward Apple.— Fruit rather below the middle size; flat shaped; color 
fine red towards the eye; of a yellowish green towards the footstalk ; keeps till 
June. 

250. Wheeler's Extreme. — Resembles the Pomme Grise. Fruit below the 
middle size ; flat shaped ; color beautifully clouded with red on a yellowish russet 
ground ; keeps till April. 



PEARS, 

ARRANGED AS DESSERT AND CULINARY FRUITS. 



Pear, Pyrus communis of Linnaeus, — belongs to the class Icosandria, and order 
Pentagynia, and is arranged in the natural order Rosacece. Is a native of Britain, as 
well as of many parts of Europe as far north as latitude 6 1'*. 

The cultivated pear differs from the apple, not only in its character, or habit of 
growth, but also in being more apt to send up suckers from the roots ; in sending out 
tap-roots ; in being much longer in coming into fruit from seed ; and also being 
either grafted, or upon its own roots, much longer lived. It is well known to live for 
several centuries ; and is, probably, of all our fruit-trees, excepting the chesnut, the 
longest liver. It is much harder and less nice of its situation of growth than the 
apple, and will grow in almost all soils and situations. Knight observes, that the 
identical trees that supphed the inhabitants of Herefordshire with perry in the 
seventeenth century, are like also to supply those of the nineteenth. As an orna- 
mental tree, it is much superior to the apple ; some sorts, the Barland and 
Olfield for example, form extremely handsome outlines of form, and when 
planted in the orchards, among apples, take off", in a great measure, that stiff foiTnal 
appearance which the apple generally assumes. At what time the cultivated pear 
attracted the notice of the inhabitants of this country is not certainly known, but, 
as we have observed of the apple, was probably known or used in its wild state by 
the Britons before the Roman invasion ; after that epoch, we are to suppose that 
they became acquainted with this fruit by its introduction by these people. Tha 
pear ranks next to the apple in point of usefulness, as it is not only used in various 
ways as a culinary fruit, but the expressed juice is made into the well-known liquor, 
perry, which is an article of commerce in several counties of England. That of the 
two sorts of trees mentioned above, if well manufactured, fetches the high price of 
ten and fifteen pounds per hogshead, upon the spot where it is made. The French 
prepare a perry which is little inferior to wine. They also dry the bad-eating sorts 
of pears, which they keep for several years. With them the varieties of pears are 
greater than that of apples. With us the varieties are also extremely numerous, 
and our catalogues are daily increasing, at least in names. Parkinson enumerates G4 
sorts of pears. Miller has selected 80 sorts, and described them. The catalogues Oi 
one of the Paris nurseries contain 189 select sorts. Our London nurseries' cata- 
logues name from to 200 to 300 sorts; and the Horticultural Society's Catalogue, 
lately published, contains G22 sorts. Flemish pears have long been considered supe- 
rioi to ours, and when brought into use, will give quite a new feature to the dessert. 



468 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Many sorts of them are in a thriving state in the garden of the Horticultural Society, 
and will probably be described at a future period by that society ; till such time, we 
must content ourselves with such sorts as are already described, or which are so 
well known as to deserve cultivation. 

The largest collection of pears in the world, is that of Van Mons, at Brussels ; 
who has csUblished a fruit-tree nursery, in which are grown upwards of eight hun- 
dred new varieties of pears, raised by himself and Mr. Uuquesne, of Mons, besides 
new varieties of other hardy fruit-trees. 

DESSERT PEARS. 

Summer Fruit, arranged in the Order of their Ripening. 

1. Citron des Carmes, or Magdalen. — Ripens in July; rather a round fruit, 
tapering towards the stalk ; very juicy ; should be eaten off the tree ; keeps only a 
few days; of a yellowish green color; middle size; much improved both in flavor 
and earUness, if planted upon a wall. One tree is sufficient for a large garden ; and 
for smaller gardens, one or two grafts will be plenty, introduced upon another tree. 

2. Little Musk, or Supreme. — Ripens about the end of July, or beginning of 
August; fruit yellow when ripe; juice somewhat musky ; should be gathered before 
it is too ripe ; keeps only a few days, and should be eaten off the tree ; is a good 
bearer. One tree is sufficient for a large garden ; for smaller gardens, one or two 
grafts will be plenty, introduced upon some other tree. 

3. Chio, or Little Bastard Musk. — Ripens about the same time with the last ; is 
smaller; of a yellow color when ripe, having a few streaks of red on the side next 
the sun ; is juicy and melting ; keeps only a few days, and should be eaten soon 
after gathering. 

4. Early Carnock. — Of a yellow color, red towards the sun; rather an indif- 
ferent pear, fitted for standards only. 

5. Pear, James'. — A Scotch fruit, as well as the last; is the earliest native pear 
of that country ; has little flavor, and keeps only a few days ; is a good bearer. The 
above five pears may with propriety be wrought upon the same tree, and will afford 
sufficient (juantity for most families. 

6. Green Chissel, or Hastings. — Ripens about the beginning of August; is a 
good bearer ; is middle-sized, and the fruit remains always green ; it grows closely 
to the branch, and often in long clusters ; is much grown in many parts of Hamp- 
shire and Sussex. 

7. Little Muscat. — A very small fruit, having a very thin skin; color yellowish 
when ripe ; flavor rich musky, and only keeps a few days. 

8. Red Muscadelle. — Fruit large and beautiful ; the color yellow, striped with 
led ; flavor rich. It sometimes produces two crops in a year, the first about the end 
of July, and the second in September. 

9. Green Pinky. — Fruit small and nearly round ; of good flavor; originated at 
Pinky, near Edinburgh ; is much esteemed in Scotland ; great bearer, and a healthy 
tree. 

10. Lemon, Ladifs Lemon, or Lady Lamont. — An excellent bearer. Fruit not 
much esteemed, unless for its earliness. 

11. Pear Sauch.— A Clydesdale pear. The fruit large and beautiful; the tree 
healthy, and a great bearer ; is an excellent market pear. 

12. Ferrow Cow. — Another Clydesdale fruit. Large, flattened towards the e\c 
of the fruit, with a short foot-stalk; a great bearer, and beautiful fruit; color red 
and yellow; flesh tender and musky ; tree hardy, and of a pendulous habit. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



469 



13 .Grey Honey. — Fruit pretty good ; ripens in August. 

14. Green Orange, or Orange Fcrt. — A middling good early fruit; ripens in 
August. 

15. Pope's Pear. — An early pear of no great merits ; ripens in August. 

IG. Golden Knap. — A much better fruit than either of the three last; ripens in 
August. 

17. Jargonelle, Cuisse Mcidame. — A French fruit ; ripens in August. Fruit 
arge ; skin smooth ; color pale green ; a good bearer, and good flavor. Tree healthy 
land vigorous, somewhat like the Windsor, and does best on standards in England; 
but is worth an cast or west wall in Scotland, or in any late situation. There are 
some very old trees of this sort in many parts of the kingdom which must have been 
early introduced. 

18. Lady's Thigh. — TJiis is the true Jargonelle, and the Cuisse Madame of the 
French. Has been early introduced into this country. Color russet-green and iron ; 
ripens from the middle of August to the beginning of September; flavor rich and 
musky ; an indiflerent bearer. Tree vigorous, and in character resembles the Jar 
gonelle and Windsor. These two trees have hitherto been confounded together; it 
is supposed that the names have been changed in coming to this country by accident. 

19. Windsor. — An English pear. Skin smooth; color when ripe of a yellowish 
green ; the flesh soft, and if permitted to hang two or three days after it is ripe 
grows mealy and useless; ripens in August; is an indifferent bearer. 

20. Orange Musk. — Ripens about the end of August; the flesh is musky, but 
dry; color yellow, spotted with black, 

21. Great Blanquet, or Bagpipe of Anjou. — Ripens about the middle of Au- 
gust; skin smooth, of a pale green color; flesh soft, and full of juice ; flavor rich ; 
and rather a good bearer. 

22. Little Blanquet. — Much smaller than the last; color pale; flesh tender, 
and full of rich musky juice ; ripens about the end of August. 

23. Long-stalked Blanquet. — Ripens latter end of August; skin smooth; 
color white, a little tinged towarJs the sun ; jiuce rich and sugary. 

24. Early AcHAN.— A pear much inferior to the winter pear of that name; 
ripens in August ; shoidd be eaten off the tree. 

25. Crawi-ord, or Lammas. — Ripens about the end of August ; an esteemed 
Scotch fruit ; should be eaten a few days after gathering ; color green, rather tinged 
with iron towards the sun ; great bearer, and of a juicy good flavour, if not too ripe ; 
keeps only ten or fifteen days. Tree vigorous, and grows in alnrost any situation ; 
middle sized fruit, improved if on a wall. 

26. Skinless, or Early Russet. — Ripens the latter end of August ; skin ex- 
tremely thin (froAi thence the name) ; color reddish ; flesh melting, and full of rich 
sugary juice. 

27. Queen's Pear, or Musk Robert, or Amber Pear. — Ripens the latter end of 
August ; fruit small ; color yellow when ripe ; juice rich and musky ; great bearer. 

28. Musk Drone. — Ripens the end of August or beginning of September; color 
yellow »vhen ripe ; flavor rich and musky ; should be eaten off the tree ; is apt to get 
dry and mealy when over ripe ; keeps only a few days. Is a great bearer. 

29. Red Orange. — Ripens about the beginning of August ; color greenish, but 
when ripe, the .side ne.\t the sun becomes tinged with purple; flesh melting, and 
juice sugary, with a little perfume. 

30. Hanging Leaf. — An esteemed Clydesdale fruit. Fruit almost round ; color 
beautiful red and yellow ; of a delicious sweetness. Tree hardy, aiid well adapted 
for the orchard. 



470 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



31. Scotch Bergamot. — Fruit large; color yellow and red; flesh tender ani 
juicy. 

32. MuSKED BoN'CHRETlEN, GraiioU, Cucumber, or Spinolas Pear. — Color red 
on one side and white on the other ; pulp rather tender ; juice a good deal perfumed. 
A great bearer, and excellent fruit. 

33. Elton. — A seedling, growing at Elton. Recommended by Mr. Knight. 
Middle-sized fruit, oval, and rather flattened at the ends ; color red and yellowish ; 
ripe from the end of September till the middle of October. A great bearer, and 
forms an excellent standard tree. The fruit is always without seeds, and almost 
always without internal cavity. If trained fo a wall it becomes very large; but is 
then good for nothing. As a standard, it grows and bears well. The original tree 
stands upon its own roots, in an orchard of seedling pear-trees, in the parish of Elton, 

*in Herefordshire. Mr. Knight has ascertained its age to be about 1 10 years, and 
describes it too as still indicating youth and vigour ; and calculates that, if not destroyed 
by accident, will live for three centuries, as he thinks it has hardly yet attained its 
middle age. Tliispear has been recommended by the Horl. Soc. as deserving general 
cultivation. It comes early mto fruit, and combines nearly all the fine flavor of the 
Bergamots, with much of the melting softness of the Bcurr«'. 

34. Saffron. — Well-shaped fruit, rather large ; tree hardy, and rather a good 
bearer. 

AUTUMN PEARS. 
Arranged in their Order of Ripening. 

35. Cassolette, or Green il/</5cn/.— Ripens the latter end of September. Fruit 
rather small; color greenish, with dark specks ; juice richly perfumed ; an esteemed 
fruit Tree rather delicate. 

36. Avorat, or August Muscat. — Ripens the beginning of September. Skm 
smooth; color wliitish yellow ; juice rich, sugary, and perfumed; and is esteemed 
one of the best summer pears yet known. Is a great bearer. 

37. TiLLiNGTON Pear. — Originated at a village of that name, near Hereford, 
from a seed of the autumn Bergamot, impregnated w ith the pollen of the Jargonelle. 
It is of the shape and size of the Doyenne gris, but more perfectly rounded at the 
head. Stalk short, with a disposition to fleshiness at its insertion. The skin is dull 
green on the shaded side, with a dull brick-dust red where exposed : the whole a 
good deal russeted. Flesh white, with a little grit at the core ; particularly sweet 
and rich, though not juicy. Ripens in the middle of November, but remains a con- 
siderable time without spoiling. 

38. Great Otho'S. — Brown Admiral, or King of Summer. — Ripens about the 
beginning of September. Color brownish next the sun ; a middling bearer ; tree 
nardy. 

39. Orange Mi'SK. — Ripens with the last. Skin green ; flesh melting and juicy. 

40. Poire du Poucuet.— Ripens witli the la^t. Flesh soft and tender ; juice 
sugary. 

41. Rose, Thorny Rose. — Ripens with the last. Shape resembling the King of 
Summer, but much larger ; color yellowish green, rather inclining to red towards the 
sun ; juice musky. 

42. Perfumed. — Ripens with the last. Color deep red, spotted with brown; 
flesh melting, but dry ; flavor rather perlumcd. 

43. Salviati. — Ripens about the middle of September. Color red and yellow 
next the sun, white where shaded; flesh tender; juice sugary and perfumed. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



471 



44. White BEunni:. —Ripens about the beginning of September; keeps only a 
few days ; a fine table pear. 

45. Rose-Water. — Ripens about the latter end of September. Color brown, 
skin rough ; juice very sweet, tasting like rose-water. 

46. RussELET. — Ripens with the last. Flesh soft and tender; juice agreeably 
perfumed. 

47. Keather.— A Clydesdale fruit. Color green; snape oblong. Hardy tree ; 
fit for orchards. 

48. Elsine, (Jwl) halft. or Goodman. — A Scotch fruit. Size small, long, and 
flat at one end ; color green and yellow ; flavor sweet, dry, and hard. A great 
bearer. 

49. French Carnock. — A fruit of middling qualities. 

50. DuuMMOND, or Late Scotch Carnock. — Color bright red and yellow. Should 
be eaten off" the tree ; is apt to get dry and mealy if kept many days. 

61. Vicar. — Shape oblong; color yellow, red, and striped; flesh tender; flavor 
sweet and musky ; rather dry in eating, particularly if too ripe. 

52. Royal Orange Bergamot. — Color yellow, sometimes striped or tinged 
\ivith red. 

53. Great Mouth-water. — Ripens about the end of September. Flesh melt- 
ing, and full of juice. Tolerable bearer. 

54. Prince's Pear. — Ripens with the last. Juice very high flavored. Is a great 
bearer. 

55. Summer Bergamot.— Ripens with the last. Often called Hamden's Ber- 
gamot. Flesh melting, highly perfumed. Good bearer. 

50. Autumn Bergamot. — Ripens in the beginning of October; keeps some 
weeks; is smaller than the last; flesh melting, and the juice highly perfumed. It 
is a great bearer, and worthy of a wall upon an east or west aspect. 

57. Williams' Bonciiretien. — A seedling from Berkshire, and known to have 
originated in the garden of a schoolmaster, at Aldermaston, in that county, about 
thirty years ago. A valuable pear for the market-gardeners. Is a great bearer, and 
succeeds the Windsor and Jargonelle, and bears well upon standards ; it very much 
resembles the Summer Bonchretien. Color pale green and russet; very juicy; and 
of a pyramidal form. 

58. Summer Bonchretien, or Grac/oZ/.— Very juicy ; richly perfumed. 

59. True Golden Beurr*.— Ripens in October. Resembles the brown Beurr(' in 
size ; color reddish brown next the sun ; is a very fine fruit ; but does not keep long. 

GO. Beurr^ Capiaumont. — Introduced here from Brussels in 1820. Has been 
fruited by Kni.jht, Braddick, and others. Fruit larger than the St. Germain's ; pyra- 
midal, tapering very much towards the stalk, which is long and slender ; skin smooth, 
of a light cinnamon color, with a rich gold color showing through it ; flesh white, 
perfectly white melting juice, rich and sugary; keeps till the end of November. 

61. La Bonne Malinoise. — Introduced here in 1818 or 1819. Has fruited in 
this country, and is recommended as an excellent pear; skin of a dull pale yellow 
color, very much covered with smooth russet in large patches ; flesh yellowish, 
melting, extremely rich and sweet ; ripens towards the end of November. 

02. The Forelle Pear. — A German variety, brought into Flanders, and thence 
into this country. It is named Forelle (Trout) from its color, which resembles the 
rich spotting of that fish. In shape and size it much resembles the Doyenne Blanc, 
though perhaps a little more oval ; skin bright yellow, very deep on the side next 
the sun ; sprinkled with many small yellow spots, surrounded by a brown or reddish 
ring, which gives the fruit a singular appearance ; flc^h white, melting, without grit, 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER, 



juicy and very sweet, without perfume. Ripens in November, and may probaWy 
keep a little longer. 

63. BeurrI: DiEL.^Originated by Van Mons, at Brussels, and introduced here 
about 1820. Fruit large, resembling a fine Summer Bonchreticn in shape; skin 
smooth, of a bright citron color; flesh white and melting; juice rich and sweet; 
ripens in November, and will keep during the following month. 

Gi. The Urbaniste.— Originated by Count Coloma, and has been fruited here 
by Knight, Braldick, and others; fruit egg shaped; skin pale green, inclining to 
yellow, much spotted with greenish spots, and sprinkled over with thin russet patches, 
particularly round the eye and stalk ; flesh white towards the outside, but deepens 
to a reddish color towards the core. It is quite melting, juicy, and very sweet, but 
without perfume ; keeps till October. 

C5. Belrr£ ilov ge, or Red Butter Pear.— K\Tpem about the beginning of October; 
very melting, and full of rich sugary juice. Is one of our best sorts of buttery pears, 
if eaten off the tree. 

GO. Green Yair, or Green Pear of the 17//r.— Said to be indigenous to a beau- 
tiful scat on the river Tweed, about thirty miles from Edinhur<;h. Color green ; 
size small; sweet and juicy. Should be eaten off the tree ; does not keep many days; 
is a great bearer, and free grower. 

67. Doyenn£, Dean's Pair, Carlisle White Bevrr^, St. Michael's, Diana. — Ripens 
about the beginning of October ; juice cold and melting ; and is a great bearer. 

68. Verte-longlc, or Long Green. — Ripens by the end of October; flesh melt- 
ing and juicy. 

69. Swiss Bergamot. — Ripens about the beginning of October. This pear is 
much grown upon the walls in Scotland ; of middle size ; color green, striped 
with red ; juicy and high flavored. The tree is a very good bearer, if planted in 
good soil. 

70. Monsieur John. — Sometimes called Ultite, and •omelimes Grey Monsieur 
John. The difference of their color proceeding from the soil and situation in which 
they grow. Ripens in the latter end of October or beginning of November ; juice 
rich and sugary ; is upon the whole one of our best pears for this season. 

71 Pender, or Knave's Pear. — Ripens by the end of October ; flesh fine and 
tender, very much sugared. 

72. Vine. — Ripens in November; color dark red; flesh very melting, and full of 
a clammy juice. 

73. Flowered Muscat. — Ripens about the end of November ; is an excellent 
fruit ; flesh very tender, and of a very delicate flavor. 

74. RoussiLiNE. — Ripens about the latter end of October ; color deep red, with 
spots of grey; flesh very tender and delicate ; juice very sweet, with an agreeable 
perfume. 

75. Marquesse. — Ripens into eating in November; color yellow; but wlicn it 
docs not ripen to that color, seldom good, but if it does, the flesh will be tender and 
delicate, and very full of sugary juice. Cultivated at Little Chelsea above one hun- 
dred years ago. 

76. Gansell's Bergamot — Differing little from the autumn Bergamot, said to 
be the same thing improved by culture. Is a very high fruit when well ripened. 

77. Red DoyennI:. — An old variety brought into notice by Mr. Knight; color 
red and pale green ; is in eating in October and November. Great bearer and good 
fruit; tree extremely hardy, %nd excellently suited for cottage gardens. Mr. Salis- 
bury mentions an old tree of this sort taken down at Strawhill, near Halifax, in 1779. 
which must have been above one hundred years old. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



m 



78. GoLDFN BEURRf.— Comes into use in October; color scarlet and gold ; hiah 
flavored, anil a great bearer, succeeds best upon an east aspect, and in a loamy soil 

79. Marie Louise. — This is one of the numerous seedlings which have been 
raised of late years in the Netherlands, and is one of the finest pears we have. The 
figure in this work, by Mr. Hart, junior, was taken from the private garden of Mr. 
Lee, of the Hammersmith Nurseries.) It is said to have been raided by the Abbe 
Duquesnc, together with the Napoleon pear, and introduced into this country by the 
Hort. Soc, through Dr. Van Mons, of Brussels. Its general form is like that of the 
St. Germain, but tapering less towards the stalk; the skin is of a greenish yellow, 
deepening where exposed to the sun, or when full ripe to a rich yellow, clouded 
with light brown russet. The stalk is generally an inch and a half long; pale brown ; 
flesh inclining to yellow; perfectly melting, with abundance of sweet juice. It varies 
in size according to circumstances; in favorable situations and good soils, it is about 
five inches long and three inches wide, and weighing about eight ounces. It is in 
perfection from the middle of October, till the middle or end of November, according 
to the place of its growth. It requires a south wall to bring it to perfection, but 
will not answer in this climate Ujion standards. 

80. Seckle Pear. — This excellent pear is of American origin, and introduced 
here by the Hurt. Soc. In shape it resembles the s'van's egg, but is a little longer. 
Stalk from half an inch to an inch long; eye not sunk, but even with the head of 
the fruit; skin of a greenish olive color, often waslied with much dull or bronze red 
on the side exposed to the sun, and sometimes slightly streaked with a lighter red ; 
flesh yellow, very fine in texture, melting, juicy, and sweet, with a delicate and 
extremely powerful bergamot perfume ; it is in this perfume, that the character of 
this pear differs from all others, and which has caused it to be so highly extolled 
in America. With us it is in perfection about the end of October and be- 
ginning of November, but is much earlier in its native country. It ripens upon 
espaliers or standards in very favorable places, but its merits deserve a wall in 
general. 

8L Charles d'Autriche. — Another new variety of pear from Dr. Van Mons; 
fruit rather large ; stalk about an inch long; eye in a confined caN-ity, not deeply 
sunk ; skin greenish yellow, profusely sprinkled with brown spots, and partially 
russetcd; flesh melting, white, very juicy, with a rich high flavor, but with Httle or 
no perfume; comes into eating about the middle of November, requires a wall of an 
east or west aspect to bring it to perfection ; fruit beautiful and good. 

WINTER DESSERT PEARS, 
Arranged in their Order nf Ripening. 

82. Crass ANNE. — Comes into eating about the latter end of December, This is 
an excellent fruit, and is esteemed the best of all the Bergamots. It is highly flavored 
when fully ripened, of a roundish moderate size, and greyish color, and covered 
with small brown specks. It is the best keeper of all the bergamots; none of them 
being good keepers. It requires and deserves a south wall, although we have had 
it in tolerable perfection upon an almost north aspect. It succeeds best in a strong 
rich loamy soil ; seldom succeeds upon standards. 

83. Lansac, or /)rtMy7/j<Hc.— Is in eating about the beginning of December; flesh 
tender, yellow, and melting. The juice is sugared, and a little perfumed, 

84. St. Gf.rmaiv, — Is in eating from December till February; color russet 
green; flesh melting and very juicy, which, in a dry season, or if planted m a dry 
soil, is highly flavored. It is an excellent bearer when planted as a dwarf standard 



474 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



and comes in succession after the other pears of the same sort on walls are over. In 
good soils it comes of a large size and keeps well. 

85. Winter Acuas.— Grey Achan, Red Achiui, and Black Jclian, varieties of 
the same fruit, probably arising from soil and situation. The varieties are much 
esteemed in Scotland, and generally cultivated. It is supposed to be of French 
origin, but must have been introduced very early into that country. It is of niiddling 
size when a great crop, but swells to a largish fruit when a middling one ; is a great 
bearer, and keeps well ; it has a sweetish and rather peculiar flavor. 

SG. Martin sec, or dry Martin. — Is in eating about the middle of December, is 
much like the Russelct in shape and color ; flesh breaking and fine ; and the juice 
sugared, with a little perfume. 

87. Amadot. — In eating about the midtlle of December; is rather dry. but high 
flavored. 

88. EriNE d'IIiver, or Winter Thorn. — Is in eating by the latter end of De- 
cember; pulp tender and buttery, of an agreeable flavor; sweet juice, highly per- 
fiimed. 

89. Little Lard, or Wonder of Winter. — Is in eating by the end of December, 
and is reckoned one of the best fruits in this season; flesh melting; juice nmch 
sugared, and has an agreeable and n)usky flavor. 

90. Louis-Bonne. Good Louis. — Is in eating about the middle of December; 
flesh extremely tender, and full of a very sweet juice; esteemed an excellent fruit. 

91. L'Escii ASSEUIE. — Is in eating about the beginning of January; flesh melting 
and buttery ; juice sugary, with a little perfume. It bears best on standards. 

92. Passe Colmar. — Originated by M. Hardcnpont of Mons. Fruit as large as a 
Colmar ; more tapering towards the stalk ; skin pale green, slightly marked with red 
on the side next the sun, and sprinkled with very small green spots ; flesh yellowish, 
melting, though not buttery; very juicy, and extremely sweet; keeps till the end of 
December, and even later. 

93. The Bezy Vaet. — Originated by M. Parmenticr, at Enghien. It has fruited 
in the gardens of Lord Henry Fitzgerald, at Thames Dilton. Fruit resembling the 
swan's egg in form, but larger; skin dull green, sprinkled with a little russet ; flesh 
yello\Nish, perfectly melting remarkably sweet, and very agreeably perfumed ; is 
an abundant bearer, and is said by M. Parmenticr to keep till April, but does not 
appear to keep with us beyond the end of November or middle of December. 

91. The Bf.urr* d'Aremrerg. — Cultivated on the continent. This pear is 
stated to keep till the beginning of May ; with us it is not found to keep beyond the 
middle of November. Thus a difficulty presents itself in giving any description of 
fruits, at least as to their time of keeping. It is a well ascertained fact, that apples 
and pears, in one soil and situation, will remain good till April and May, while the 
same variety cultivated in a ditferent soil or situation, will become mealy and insipid 
in the end of October, and often decay altogether. 

95. Colmar. — Is in eating about the beginning of January; flesh tender, and juice 
highly sugared. Fruit large, long, and of a greenish yellow color, when fully 
matured; for to be in perfection, requires a good wall and good soil ; it is not in all 
seasons that it really comes to full n)aturity here. It is not a great bearer, rather 
otherw ise ; it is a good keeper. 

rC. BiUER-Busu. — A Scotrh fruit ; rather small, firm, and of good taitc ; ripens 
in most seasons. 

')". Round Winter.— A Clydesdale fruit; an excellent winter pear 
9S. Ambrette. — Comes into eating about the beginning of January; flesh quite 
melting, and full of highly-perfumed juice. It is esteemed an excellent pear. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



475 



99. VoRGOULEUSE. — Comes in by the first of January ; is esteemed one of the 
best winter pears. It requires a good soil and situation ; if in a cold one, or in a cold 
wet season, it is very apt to crack before it becomes ripe. The flesh is meltiug, and 
full of rich sweet juice. 

100. Chapman's. — Resembles the Passe Calmar; of American origin, introduced 
in 1815; rather small, smooth ; russet color; is in use from December till May 
Bears on young wood, like a Morella cherry. 

101. Spanish Bonchretien, or Atdumn Bonchreticn. — Is in eating in January ; 
large fine pear ; flesh breaking, juicy and sweet. 

102. St. Austin. — Is in eating from the middle to the end of December, and 
continues good till March ; flesh tender, but not buttery ; juicy, and rather sharp. 

103. Wilding of Cassoy, or Small Winter Butter Pear. — Fruit small; flesh 
melting, and juice very sweet and rich ; is in eating in January, and is an excellent 
bearer on standards. 

104. Broavn, St. Germains. — In eating from December till April. High fla- 
vored; bears well on dwarfs or standards, and comes in after the wall-fruits of the 
same sort are over. 

105. Pear D'Auch.— Introduced by the Duke of Northumberland in 17S0. It 
much resembles the Colmar, but is fuller towards the stalk ; continues good from 
December till April, and is one of the best winter pears we have. 

106. Martin Sire, or Lord Martin. — Is in eating in January; flesh breaking, 
full of juice, which is very sweet, and somewhat perfumed. 

107. Winter Rousselet. — Is in eating about the end of January; flesh 
buttery and melting, and generally full of sweet juice. 

108. Round Winter. — A Clydesdale fruit, much esteemed for winter use. 

109. Holland Bergamot, or Chenies Bergamot.— Keeps from the end of Jan- 
uary till April ; flesh half buttery and tender ; juice high-flavored. Is altogether 
an excellent pear. 

110. Brown Beurr£, or Beiirrd de Roy, or TJecZ i)gMrr^.— In eating from Octo- 
ber till December or January ; color reddish brown on the side next the sun, and 
yellowish where shaded ; flesh melting and full of rich juice ; an excellent pear. 

111. German Muscat, or Muscat d'/iUemande. — Is in eating from February till 
April or May ; flesh buttery and tender; juicy and high-flavored. 

112. Swan's Egg. — A good fruit in tolerable good soil ; a great bearer ; is a good 
keeper ; egg-shaped, and greenish. 

113. Pear of Naples, or Easter St. Germain. — Is in eating in March; juice 
Bweet, and a little vinous. 

114. Bonchretien, or Winter Bonchretien. — Is in eating from March till June ; 
flesh tender; very full of rich sugared juice ; fruit large size. 

115. CiiAi'MONTELLE, Winter Beurre. — An excellent table pear, and keeps 
well. Duhamel has stated, that the original tree of the Chaumontellc was alive 
and in health about the end of the last century ; and Knight supposes the tree to be 
still hving. 

IIG. Bergamotte de Pasque, or Tcrling, Amoselle, Paddington, and Tarquin.— 
Comes into eating about April, and lasts till June; fine handsome fruit; green when 
gathered, and when ripe of a yellowish straw color ; makes a very handsome ap- 
pearance at table. 

, 117. St. Martial, ov Angclique. (The Angelic Pear.)— Is in eating in March; 
flesh tender and buttery ; juice very sweet. 

118. Brown St. Germain.— Continues from the end of December, till the end 
of March. 



476 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



119. La Pastorale. — Is in eating in March; flesh tender and buttery; jmce 
rich ; very sweet. 

120. Golden Beprrf. — Was introduced from Burgundy by Marshal Conway, 
and first cultivated in this country, at his seat, Park-place, near Henley-upon- 
Thames ; color beautiful scarlet next the sun, and yellow upon the shaded side ; 
flesh melting ; juice high-flavored ; ripens in October. 

121. MuiR Fowl-Egg. — An esteemed Scotch fruit. Tree hardy; bears well 
upon standards; good bearer ; color green and brown. 

122. John Monteath. — Another esteemed Scotch fruit; an exeellent bearer 
upon standards or walls. 

123. Longdeville. — An old Scotch fruit. An excellent bearer either upon walls 
or standards. Probably has been brought from France originally by some of that 
ancient family. 

124. Green Sugar. — An esteemed Scotch fruit. Smallish size, juicy, and rather 
well-flavored ; great bearer upon standards. 

CULINARY PEARS, 

Arranged in their Order of Ripening. 

125. PoiR Portrail, or Gate Pear. — An excellent culinary fruit. 

126. Unicorn. — A beautiful fruit; colour red and yellow ; rather austere. 

127. Le Besideri, or Wilding of the Forest of Heri in Bretagne. — Handsome 
upright tree. 

128. Black Pear of Worcester, or Parkinson's Warden, or Pound Pear. — 
Good bearer, and keeps long. 

129. La Double Fleur, Double Flowering. — Large flat beautiful pear; skin 
smooth ; color yellow on one side, and blueish on the other. It is the best pear to 
preserve, taking a fine red color from the fire. 

130. Bloody. 

131. Pou Meg. — An esteemed Carse of Gowrie fruit, (Scotch) Hardy tree, and 
good bearer. 

132. Catellac. 

133. Union, or Uvidale's St. Germain, Pickering's St. Germain.. — Free growing 
tree. 

134. Franc Real, or Golden End of Winter. 

135. Spanish Red Warden. 



PEACHES. 



Peach, Amygdalus Persiea, Linnceus, — belongs to the class and order Icosan- 
dria Monogynia, and natural order Rosacce. 

Is a native of Persia, and was introduced into Europe by the Romans, during the 
reign of Claudius, and is described by Columella, and afterwards by Pliny. The former 
says, that when it was first brought into the Roman Empire, it possessed deleterious 
qualities. Knight, however, supposes those peaches to have been only swollen almonds, 
or imperfect peaches, and which are known to contain the Prussic acid, which ope- 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



477 



rates so unfavorably on some constitutions. The peach was deemed unwholesome 
in Media ; but when planted in Egypt, it became delicious and salubrious. In Asia, 
It has been cultivated from time immemorial ; but when it was introduced into 
Greece is not known. It is still cultivated in Italy, and is there grown on standards 
superior to any other in Europe. The Montreuil gardeners are noted for the fineness 
of their fruits, which they grow upon low walls. They divide their peaches into 
two classes : pavies, and peaches. The first class, or pavies, we call cHngstones, from 
the flesh adhering to the stone, and are with us held in least estimation, for want of 
sufficient heat to ripen them properly. In France they are esteemed the best as 
well as in America. The second class, or peaches, are by us distinguished by the 
appellation of free-stones from the flesh readily coming av» ay from the stone, and are 
by us held in the highest estimation, while, on the other hand, the French and Ame- 
ricans consider them to be inferior. The Americans are said to feed their pigs with 
the free stones, and to use the clingstones or pavies for eating only. 

There the whole population has been maintained for several generations by the 
cultivation of this fruit, which is their sole occupation. Tlie late Sir Joseph Banks 
very justly remarked, that, *' it is there alone where the true management of this 
deUcious fruit can be studied and attained ; for it is impossible, from written pre- 
cepts, to acquire the whole art. The modes of winter and summer pruning, are 
varied, not only according to the difierences of soil and exposure, but even according 
to the state and constitution of every individual tree." Like the American peach- 
growers, the French cultivate many sorts they have never budded, but always reared 
from the stone, and others they bud on stocks of a sort of half wild peach, called Peche 
de Vigne. In consequence of this arrangement of one species of fruit coming under 
the management of individuals for many generations, they are brought to a degree 
of perfection, which can never be attained in a garden where fruits of all sorts, and 
a variety of other equally important duties fall to the care of a gardener. 

In the United States, particularly in the middle and southern provinces, it is no 
uncommon circumstance for the owners of some of the peach orchards to be pos- 
sessed of such a number of peach-trees as are sufficient, after fermenting and dis- 
tiUing the juice to produce from fifty to a hundred barrels of peach brandy. The 
manufacturing of this liquor, and the feeding of hogs, being the principal uses to 
which the peach is applied in those countries. In the vicinity of Buenos Ayres, in 
South America, where fire-wood is scarce, peach-trees are raised from the stone 
chiefly for the purpose of burning. 

Knight is of opinion that the peach may yet, by proper cultivation, be sufficiently 
hardened as to be naturalized to the climate of England, so as to succeed even as a 
standard in favorable situations. 

There are of peaches, as well as all other fruits, long catalogues of names. Par- 
kinson, in 1629, enumerates 21 sorts. Miller, in 1750, described 31 varieties. In 
the Nursery Catalogues, both of Paris and London, there are enumerated nearly 
100 varieties ; and the Horticultural Society's Catalogue enumerates 224 sorts. 

In the following lists we will confine ourselves to such as are well known, and 
sufficiently described. 

1. Wkite Nutmeg. — Fruit small, round, white; juice sugary; is chiefly es- 
teemed for being first ripe; ripens in July. 

2. Red Nutmeg. — Fruit much larger than the last, round; bright vermiUon; 
flesh white, red next the stone ; is a great bearer, and ripens soon after the last ; is 
esteemed a better fruit. 

3. Early Avant, — Fruit large, red, has £i.n agreeable flavor, and ripens in 
August. 



478 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 

4. vSmall Migxonne, or Early M'lgnonne. — FruU middle-sized, round ; very red 
on the side next the sun ; flesh juicy, and of a vinous richness ; pulp white, and red 
towards the stone ; ripens about the beginning of August. 

5. Early Annk. — Said to have originated from seed at Pusey, in Berkshire, and 
named after Mrs. Anne Dunch, of that place. Fruit small, round ; very white, both 
in skin and flesh ; rather rose-colored, when fully ripe and exposed to the sun ; high 
flavored; one of our best early peaches, and should hold a place upon the walls of 
every garden ; ripens the beginning of August. 

6. Early Purple, Punrpre Native. — Fruit large, round; fine deep red or pur- 
ple; flesh white, very red next the stone; juicy and high flavored; is an excellent 
fruit ; ripens about the middle of August. 

7. Neal's Early Purple. — Approaching the last in point of merit, but inferior; 
ripens about the middle of August 

8. Superb Royal. — Fruit large; high colored when fully exposed to the stm; 
flesh white, juicy ; a fine fruit ; ripens about the nuddle of August. 

9. Great Migsoxne, Grosse Mignonne, or Large French Mignonne. — Fruit large, 
round ; greenish yellow where shaded, rose-colored where exposed to the sun; flesh 
white, sugary, high flavorc 1. One of our finest peaches, but rather tender ; is ge- 
nerally wrought upon a peach or apricot stock; ripens by the middle of August. 

10. White Magdalen. — Fruit rather large, round; of a yellowish white, with 
sometimes delicate red stripes; flesh v;hite to the stone; an exceedingly tender tree, 
but in a peach-house one of our finest ; upon the walls it ripens about the middle of 
August. 

11. Early Newington, or Smith's Newington. — Fruit middle size, roundish; 
fine red ; flesh white and firm, red at the stone, to which it is partially attached ; 
ripens about the end of August, 

12. Belle CiiBVREUSE. — Fruit middle-sized, oblong; red and yellow ; flesh also 
yellow ; juice rich ; fine fruit, and tree a good bearer ; ripens by the end of August. 

13. Early' Admirable. — Fruit large, round ; reddish and white ; flesh white, red 
towards the stone; flavor high and vinous. 

11. Early Violette. — Of French origin. Fruit large; ripens about the end of 
August. 

15. Red Magdalen. — Fruit large, round; fine red; flesh firm, white, very red 
near the stone; flavor exquisitely rich ; ripens about the end of August. Tree ex 
tremely subject to mildew in all situations. 

16. Montauban. — Fruit middle size ; deep red, inclining to purple next the sun, 
pale towards the wall ; flesh melting; rich juice; ripens by the end of August. Tree 
a great bearer. 

17. Royal Charlotte, Queen C//«rfo//f.— Fruit above the middle size ; yellow- 
ish white ; very fine fruit ; ripens about the end of August. 

18. Double Mountain, — Of French origin. Fruit large ; ripens about the ent'. 
of August. 

19. Chancellor,— Fruit middle-sized, oval; flesh white and melting; ripens 
about the end of August. Tree tender ; will not succeed on common stocks, should 
be wrought upon peach or apricot stocks. 

20. Bellegrade, Gallande. — Fruit very large, oblong rather than round ; deep 
purple; flesh white and juicy, red near the stone ; flavor excellent; ripens about the 
middle of September. 

21. Gallande, Ronald's Early Gallandc.—V ixxW. large; fine flavored; flesh 
white, red towards the stone j originated at the Brentford Nursery ; ripens about 
the beginning of September. 



THE FKUIT GARDEN, 



479 



22. Malta, Italian Peach. — Fruit middle-sized, of an irregular form; deep green 
and red marbled ; beautiful fruit ; flesh white, deep red near the stone; fine flavored, 
and a good bearer ; ripens about the beginning of September. 

23, BouRDiNE, Narbonne. — Fruit large, round; dark red ; fle^h white, quite red 
at the stone ; flavor good ; ripens about the beginning of September ; when old it Ls 
an excellent bearer, and the fruit becomes improveJ. It answers well in favorable 
situations as a standard, producing its fruit ripe in October. 

21. Royal George. — Fruit largish, round; flesh melting, rich ; sets with less air 
than most other peaches ; is extremely well calculated for forcing ; ripens about the 
middle of August ; is a great bearer. 

25. Royal Geokge, Grimwood's. — Fruit large, round; flesh melting; high 
flavor; a tree apt to mildew ; ripens about the middle of August. 

20. Alberoe Yellow. — Fruit middle-sized, longish ; deep red and yellow; flesh 
yellow, and red near the stone ; flavour good ; ripens about the beginning of Sep- 
tember. 

27. VioLETTE IIative. — Fruit very large ; yellowish red ; ripens about the 
beginning of September. 

28. Late Violet. — Fruit very large ; violet marbled with red; flesh pale yellow; 
ripens about the beginning of September. 

29. RosANNA. — Fruit middle-sized, longish ; deep red and yellow ; flesh yellow, 
and red towards the stone ; flavor good ; ripens beginning of September. This, aa 
has been observed by Duhamel, is a variety of the Yellow Alberge, but has not 
been sufficiently distinguished from it by the British gardeners : it ripens a little 
later than the Alberge, and is superior to it in quality. This fruit has ripened upon 
a standard in the nursery grounds of Mr. Joseph Kirk, Brompton ; and in favorable 
situations might be found to answer as such. 

30. Royal Kensington. — Introduced into the Royal Gardens at Kensington, in 
1780. Fruit above middle size, roundish; high red and yellow; flesh juicy and 
rich. One of the best peaches we have, and is not apt to mildew or blight ; great 
bearer ; ripens about the beginning of September ; resembles the old Royal George. 

31. Rambouillet, or Rumbullion. — Fruit middle-sized, roundish, deeply fur- 
rowed ; fine red and bright yellow ; flesh deep red at the stone, melting, fine fla- 
vored ; ripens about the beginning of September. 

32. Nivette. — Fruit large, roundish ; bright red towards the wall and pale yel- 
low in the shade ; flesh greenish yellow, and reddish near the stone; juicy and well- 
flavoured ; ripens about the middle of September. 

33. Noblesse. — Fruit very large, round, pale yellow, inclining to be reddish 
next the sun ; flesh juicy and rich. It is a great bearer, and one of our finest 
peaches; ripens about the middle of September. (The figure in this work, by Mr. 
Hart, junior, was taken from a tree in the nursery of Mr. Mackay, of Clapton.) 

34. Spring-grove.— Originated by Knight, at Downton Castle, in 1814, from the 
large Mignonne and Nutmeg peaches. Fruit middle-size, round ; dark red next the 
sun, bright yellow on the shaded side ; flesh firm, but melting ; of exceedingly good 
flavor. Tree rather tender ; succeeds best upon an apricot stock ; is a good bearer, 
and ripens about the middle of September. 

35. Acton Scott. — Another which originated with Knight, at Downton Castle, 
from the Noblesse and Nutmeg peaches, in 1814. Fruit middle size, round; red 
and while ; delicate looking fruit ; flesh rich, juicy, and sweet. Tree hardy, not apt 
to mildew or gum; good bearer; ripens about the middle of September. 

3G. Incompakable, Pnvic Admirable. — Fruit very large, irregular; an esteemed 
fruit ; ripens about the middle of September. 



480 



THE TRACTICAL GARDENER. 



37. Vanguard. — Fruit large, roundish; not high colored; flesh melting and 
v»ell flavored ; ripens about the end of September. 

38 ViNEUSE. — Fruit middle size, round; red all over; flesh white, red towards 
the stone ; high flavored. Tree a good bearer ; ripens about the end of September. 

39. Late Purple, La Pourprc. — Fruit large, round; dark red and yellow, 
ajxproaching to puq)le ; flesh melting, while, red towards the stone ; sweet and high 
flavored ; ripens about the end of September. 

40. Flat Peach of China. This singular peach is thus described in the Trans- 
actions of the Hort. Soc. : " This fruit is of truly singular form, and perhaps will 
be best described as having the appearance of a peach flattened by pressure at the 
head and stalk ; its upright diameter, taken through the centre, from eye to stalk, 
being eleven-sixteenths of an inch, consisting wholly of the stone, except the skin; 
that of its sides is one inch and one-eighth ; its transverse diameter being two inches 
and a half. The head of the fruit is cracked in such a manner as to look like a broad 
and rather hollow eye, of an irregular five-angled (or lobed) shape, surrounded by 
the appearance of remains of the leaves of a calix ; the whole surface of this eye is 
roughly marked with small irregular warted lines, like the crown of a medlar. The 
color of the skin of the fruit is pale yellow, mottled, or rather speckled with red on 
the part exposed to the sun, and covered with a fine down. The flesh is pale yellow, 
having a beautiful radiated circle of fine red surrounding the stone, and extending 
far into the fruit. The stone is flatly compressed ; small, rough, and irreguUr. 
The consistency and flavour of the flesh are that of a good melting peach, being 
sweet and juicy, with a little noj eau flavour, or bitter aroma. It was introduced 
into this country by Mr. Joseph Kirke, of the Brompton Nursery, from Java, under 
the name of the Java peach, to which country it had no doubt been carried from 
China. Plants of the same fruit have been introduced from that country by the 
Hort. Soc. Its real merits will not warrant its admission into small gardens, or where 
fine fruit only is an object. Its singularity, however, claims a place in the collec- 
tions of the curious. 

41. Teton de Venl s, La Teton dc Venus, or Vcnns's Breast. — Fruit middle- 
sized, irregular ; faint red next the sun, straw color next the wall ; flesh white, melt- 
ing, red towards the stone; flavor rich and sugary. Tree a shy bearer; ripens its 
fruit about the end of September. 

42. Blocdy Peach, Sanpibwlc. — Fruit middle-sized ; deep red next the sun ; 
flesh also deep red ; seldom succeeds upon the open walls, and even in favorable 
seasons is fit for preserving or culinary uses only. When in a peach-house, it is 
much improved, but is seldom met with, except in large collections of peaches, as 
there are so many preferable. It ripens about the end of September. 

43. Double Swalsh. — Fruit very large. It is one of our finest large late 
peaches ; ripens about the er.d of September. 

41. Yellow Admirable. — Fruit middle-sized, roundish, oval; bright yellow; 
somewhat like an apricot, both in color and flavor. It is often called Apnrut 
Peach. It is an excellent fruit ; and ripens about the end of September. 

45. Braddick's American. — Fruit large, irregular; purplish and orange; fle.-h 
melting, nuisky, and juicy. It does not appear suited for the open wall, unless 
under very favorable circumstances. In the peach-house it is a showy and va- 
luable addition; is a good bearer; and ripens on the walls about the beginning of 
October. 

46. Late Admirable. — Fruit rather large, round; bright marbled red; flesh 
greenish, white veined, with red at the stone, to which it is firmly attached; ripens 
about the end of Septer^ber, 




TliiMras Kelly. Pateraoster Row Jan-' 



4 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



4^1 



47. Bellis, La Belle de Fitry.—Frmt middle-sized, round; pale red towards the 
aun ; flesh white, red towards the etone, to which it is attached ; ripens about the 
end of September. 

48. Portugal.— Fruit middle-sized; beautiful red towards the sun, generally 
spotted ; flesh firm and adhering to the stone ; ripens about the end of September . 

49. Buckingham Mignonne. — Fruit large ; red and white, flesh juicy, white, 
red towards the stone, to which it is not much attached. 

50. Golden, Ormge. — Fruit above the middle size, round; crimson, with rich 
purple and gold ; a beautiful fruit ; flesh deep yellow, crimson near the stone ; fine 
fruit ; ripens about the end of September ; flesh attached to the stone. 

51. Persique. — Fruit large, oblong; fine red; flesh firm, white, red near the 
stone ; juicy and highly flavored. Tree a shy bearer ; ripens about the end of Sep- 
tember. 

52. Old Newington. — Fruit large, roundish; fine red, particularly next the sun; 
flesh white, red near the stone, to which it is attached, an excellent fruit ; ripens 
about the end of September. 

53. Cherrv Peach.— Fruit small, globular; red and whitish; flesh melting; 
tolerably well-flavored; a handsome fruit ; ripens about the end of September. 

54. Millet's Mignonne.— Fruit middle-sized, roundish; high-colored towards 
the sun ; fine-flavored ; ripens about the middle or end of September. 

55. Catherine.— Fruit large, round ; dark red towards the sun ; flesh melting, 
and full of rich juice ; flesh adhering to the stone ; is much improved by being gathered 
two or three days before it is eaten, as it does not always sufficiently ripen upon the 
walls. It is a great bearer, and excellent for the purpose of preserving in brandy. 
It ripens about the beginning of October ; is worth room in a large peach-house, 
where there are also many other preferable peaches grown. 

56. Monstrous Pavie, or Royal Pavie.—¥x\x\i exceedingly large, globular ; fine 
red and greenish white ; flesh white, melting, deep red towards the stone, to which 
it firmly adheres; pretty juicy, and well-flavored; ripens about the beginning of 
October 



NECTARINES. 



Nectarine, Amygdalus Per ska, variety, — belongs to the class and order Icosari' 
dria Monogynia, and ranks in the natural order Rosacece. 

Is a variety of the peach, although former botanists considered it a distinct species, 
under the name of AmygdnJus Nusi-Persica, from the fruit, in its unripe state, re- 
sembling in smoothness, color, and size, the covering of the walnut. The name 
of nectarine, is supposed to be derived from nectar, the fancied drink of the gods^ 
The circumstance of both peaches and nectarines growing upon the same tree 
naturally, and even the same fruit partaking of the characters of both, justifies modern 
botanists in considering them merely as varieties of the same species. The first 
instance of which we have any account of these fruits being observed growing upon 
the same tree, is in a communication between Peter Collinson, Esq., and Linnaeus. 
The second occurred at Londesborough, the then residence of the Earl of BurUngton, 
and was vbited by several scientific people of the day. The third instance is cora» 



TIIK PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



niemoratc'cl by a painting in the possession of Mr. Lee, accompanied with a di»* 
aection of tlie two fruits. Tlie fourth instance was observed at East Sheen, in tlie 
garden of William Gilpin, Esq.; of this tliere is also a painting by Mr. Hooker. 
The fifth was discovered on the wall of Sir John Arundel, at Huntingdon, in June, 
ISO'2. A sixth instance occurred in the garden of Mr. Wilinot, at Isleworth. The tree 
in this garden which produces fruits with both smooth and downy coats, or in fact, 
peaches and nectarines, is the Royal George, and seldom fails to produce them annu- 
ally. It docs not appear, that ever any distinct marks were observed upon either, 
excepting in the smoothness or roughness of the skin only; the essential characters 
of their flowers, leaves, wood, and habit of growth being the same. They are 
supposed to possess finer flavor than peaches, and even to surpass every other fruit 
in that point. It is a native of the same country with the peach, and probably 
travelled into this country by way of Italy^ It is cultivated in all latitudes in which 
the peach is grown, and succeeds equally well in all. 

There are many varieties of nectarines, but they are not so numerous as peaches. 
The Horticultural Society's Catalogue enumerates 72 sorts. 

1. Fairciiild's Early. — Fruit smallish, globular; beautiful red color next the 
sun ; flesh firm, and highly flavored ; ripens about the beginning of August. 

2. Elruge. — Said to have been first cultivated by Gurle, a nurseryman, at Hod- 
desden, in the time of Charles the Second ; fruit middle size ; dark red next the 
sun, pale yellow on the opposite side; flesh soft, melting, fine flavor; ripens the 
end of August, or beginning of September. A tree of this sort is described in the 
Hort. Trans, as growing in the garden of Lord Selsey, at West Dean, which covers 
a trellis, in one of the peach-houses, of six hundred and thirty-eight square feet; 
supposed to have been planted 171)3, and continues to produce excellent crops of 
fruit. 

3. Scarlet. — Fruit rather small ; fine scarlet next the sun, pale red next the 
wall; ripens about the end of August. 

4. Italian, or Bruguon. — Fruit middle-sized ; deep red next the sun, approach- 
ing to black, pale yellow on the side next the wall; flesh adhering to the stone ; 
fine flavor ; ripens about the end of August. 

5. Early Newington. — Fruit above the middle size; fine red next the sun, 
yellowish on the other side ; flesh exceedingly high-flavored, adhering finuly to 
the stone, and is supposed one of the finest of the family; ripens about the end of 
August. 

6. W^iiiTE Nectarine. — Fruit above the middle size; cream-colored next tlie 
sun, greenish white next the wall ; roundish ; good flavor ; but rather a shy bearer. 
Tree less subject to canker or blight than any of the species; succeeds better than 
most others upon a chalky soil; ripens about the middle of September. 

7. Temple's. — Fruit middle-sized ; pale red next the sun, yellowish towards the 
wall ; flesh rich and juicy, separating easily from the stone ; ripens about the middle 
of September; when over-ripe it shrivels, and then the flavor is exquisite. 

8. Due DE TiLLO. — Is of Spanish origin; fruit larger than any of the species; 
dark, approaching to purple next the sun, and bright red on the under side, parting 
readily with the stone ; flavor exquisite. Tree hardy, and a great bearer ; deserves a 
place in every peach-house as well as on tlie walls; ripens about the middle of Sep- 
tember. 

9. Vermasii, Late Green, or Peterborough. — Fruit middle-sized, round; always 
of a greenish color ; flesh firm and well flavored ; ripens about the end of September 
or beginning of October. 

10. Red Roman.— Fruit large size ; dark red next the sun, yellowish next the 
wall; flesh rich and juicy ; ripens about the middle of September; fine fruit. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



483 



11. Late Newinqtok. — Fruit middle-sized ; red towards the sun, yellow next 
Uie wall ; flesh rich and juicy ; ripens about the middle of September. Forsyth 
remarks, that this nectarine has smooth leaves, and that the early Newiijgton has 
jagged ones, which is one of the most essential differences by which these two fruits 
are distinguished. 

12. Violet IIative, or Violet. — Fruit middle size; purple next the sun, pale 
yellowish next the wall ; flesh juicy and good flavored ; ripens about the middle of 
September. 

13. Golden, or Yellow. — Fruit, when in perfection, large, round; bright orange 
color, slightly tinged with red next the sun ; flesh adhering to the stone, rather 
peculiar than high flavored ; showy fruit ; ripens about the beginning of October. 

11. Murray. — Fruit middle size ; dingy red, often almost black next the sun, pale 
greenish yellow next the wall; flesh parting freely from the stone, juicy and high 
flavored. Tree excellent bearer ; ripens about the end of September. 

15. Claremont. — Fruit middle size; flavor excellent ; ripens about the end of 
September. 

16. CowDRAY, Ifltite Nectarine. — Introduced from Brussels by Antony Vis- 
count Montague. Is different from the conunon white, or Flanders nectarine, m 
the peculiar length of its leaves, as well as being a much larger fruit; is perfectly 
white, and of exquisite flavor. Is sometimes called the White Brussels Nectarine ; 
was first cultivated in the gardens of William Stephen Poyntz, Esq., at Cowdray 
Lodge, near Midhurst, 



APRICOTS. 



Apricot, Prunus Anneniaca, Linncrus, — Anncniaca vulgaris, — belongs to the class 
and order Icosandria Monogijniu, and ranks in the natural order Rosacea:. Apricots 
have long been considered a part of the genus Prunus, from which it is now thought 
more advisable Xo separate them, and make a new genus, under the name of 
Armeniaca. 

The native habitat of this tree is not known with any degree of certainty. It is 
most probably a native of Asia. From its trivial name, it is supposed to have ori- 
ginated in Armenia, but Ilegnier and Sickler, assign its origin between the Niger 
and the Atlas; and Professor Pallas says, that it is found on all parts of the Caucasus, 
the mountains there being covered to the top with it. Grossier and Thunberg de- 
scribe it as a native of China and Japan; the former naturalist says, that the Chinese 
possess many varieties of it, which they plant in pots for their rooms. He also states, 
that the whole of the barren mountains, to the west of Pekin, are covered with it ; 
and that the Chinese make lozenges from the clarified juice, which, dissolved in water, 
yields a cooling drink. It is the Malus Armeniaca of the ancients. It was introduced 
mto Europe by the Romans, and brought from Italy to this country by Wolfe, a 
French priest, gardener to Henry the Eighth. It was cultivated here in 15G2, and 
is noticed by Turner and Hakluyt. The definition of the name apricot, has given 
rise to a variety of opinions; Professor Martin has given the most simple and most 
probable. He observes, a tree, when first introduced, might have been called a 
precox, or early fruit, and gardeners taking the article a, for the first syllabic i/ tlio 



4«4 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



word, might easily have corrupted it to apricocks. Kyle of Moredun is the first who 
writes it apricot, all the carHer writers wrote it apricocks. 

There arc many varieties of this fruit. Parkinson enumerates six sorts, Rea 
■even. The French and English Nursery Catalogues contain about 15, that of the 
Horticultural Society 51, of which 27 are considered as cultivated in the Britkh 
gardens, the remainder are cultivated on the continent. It is supposed that this 
list will be greatly reduced, as we become better acquainted with their fruits ; at 
present they are not sufficiently known to identify the names of the two countrie# 
to any extent. 

1. Early Masculine, or Red Masculine. — An old variety, cultivated hcr« in 
Charles the Second's time ; fruit small, round ; red towardu the sun, and greenish 
yellow towards the wall, or where nmch shaded ; flesh tender, and of rather a tart 
taste, for which it is esteemed, as well as its being the earliest apricot we have. 
Tree rather slender, but an excellent bearer ; fruit ripens about the end of July. 

2. Orange. — Has been cultivated here before 1702. Pruit large ; deep yellow or 
orange color, when fully ripe ; flesh dry and insipid ; better calculated for culinary 
purposes than for the dessert. It is considered the best for preserving, as it retains 
its color; fruit ripens about the middle of August. Tree good bearer. 

3. Black. — Introduced by Sir Joseph Banks, and cultivated in his garden at 
Spring Grove, about 1790, from France. It is much esteemed by the French, but 
is considered by us as very inferior to any of the other varieties cultirated. Fruit 
small; black or dark ^•iolet ; ripens about the middle of August, which is its only 
merit. 

4. Turkey, or Large Turkey. — Cultivated here before 1702. Fruit large, roujid ; 
very deep yellow ; flesh firm and dry ; ripens about the middle of August. 

5. Algier, or Jf'hitc Algiers. — Cultivated here before 1702. Fruit oval, flattish 
Ht the ends; straw colored ; flesh juicy and high flavor ; ripens from the beginning 
to the middle of August. 

G. Breda. — Introduced from thence to this country in 1702, and originally brought 
there from Africa. Fruit large, round ; deep yellow ; flesh soft and juicy ; is an 
excellent fruit; ripens about the end of AugusL Tree hardy; a great bearer, and 
well calculated for standards. 

7. Roman.— Introduced here before 1702. Fruit large, round; deep yellow; 
flesh firm, not very juicy ; ripens about the end of August. 

8. Moor Park, Jusons, Timple's, and Dutwiore's Breda. — This has long been 
erroneously supposed the Abricot Pcche of the French ; but that is a large tree, which 
may be raised from the stone without grafting ; it ripens late in August ; and the 
stone is so soft, that a pin will pierce through it, and the kernel is bitter. Intro- 
duced by Sir Thomas More, from the Netheriands, about 1700. This is one of the 
finest of the apricol family ; ripens about the end of August; requires a good soil to 
bring the fruit to perfection ; is rather a shy bearer, but one fruit is worth tliree of 
some of the other. 

9. Alberge.— The only variety that produces the same fruit as the parent from 
seed. 

10. Portugal.— Fruit small; tree pretty good bearer ; flavor rather inferior. 

11. Pf.ach Apricot, Apricot of AWi/.— Introduced here, in 1767, from Pans, by 
the Duke of Northumberland, and cultivated in his grace's gardens at Sion House. 
Is the largest of all the family of apricots, and is often confused with the Moor Park. 
These two fruits resemble each other, but the leaves and character of the trees are 
very different; ripens about the end of Augiist. 

12. Brussels.— Introduced from Brussels, in 1702. Fruit middle-sized, oval; 
red with dark spots next the sun, greenish yellow m the shade; flesh juicy, not 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



485 



liable to become mealy ; flavor good. Tree hardy, and well calculated for a stand • 
ard ; it is a great bearer, and will grow in worse situations than any of the others. 
Fruit ripens about the cad of August. 

13. Transparent, — Fruit middle-sized ; flavor not very good ; ks beautiful 
appearance recommends it to our notice. 



PLUM S. 



Plum, Pnuins Domestka, Linnaus, — belongs to the class and order Icosandria 
Monogynia, and ranks in the natural order Rosacece. 

Is by botanists considered a native or naturalized to Britain, and is taken up as 
such in all our native Floras; it is found in hedges and thickets, but its original 
country is supposed to be Asia, and, according to Pliny, it was brought into Greece 
from Syria, and thence into Italy. Plums, of all stone-fruits are considered the most 
wholesome when ripe ; and, when unripe, are liable to produce complaints in the 
bowels. 

The varieties of this fruit are now also numerous. Tasser, in 1573, mentions 10 
sorts ; Parkinson, in 1629, enumerates 60 ; and Philip Miller only 30 sorts. The 
French and EngUsh Nursery Catalogues name from from 70 to 100 sorts ; and the 
Horticultural Society's Catalogue enumerates 298, including stocks. 

1. White Primordian, or Jaunehaiive de Canida. — Fruit small, round, yellow; 
flesh mealy, of little flavor ; being our earUest plum is almost the only merit it has ; 
ripens in July; is a gi-eat bearer. 

2. Morocco, or Early Damask, Damascus, Black Damascit '. — Fruit middle size ; 
red and blue ; flesh juicy and pretty well flavored ; ripens about the beginning of 
August. 

3. Great Damask. — Fruit large, oval; blueish; flesh rich; ripens in August. 

4. Little Black Damask. — Fruit smaller than the last; flesh rich; a good 
bearer ; and ripens about the latter end of August. 

5. Blce Perdrigon, or Violet. — Blueish red and yellow; flesh adhering to the 
stone, rich; good bearer; and ripens in August. 

6. Fotheringham, or Sheen. — Fruit middle-sized; dark red; flesh juicy and 
rich ; a good bearer ; ripens about the middle of September. 

7. Orleans, or Red Damask. — Fruit large, rather round; red; flesh firm; 
ripens by the end of August. Is much esteemed for culinary purposes ; is seldom 
sent to table where better sorts are grown. It is a hardy tree, and an exceedingly 
great bearer, either upon walls or standards. 

8. White Perdrigon, or Perdrigon Blanc, Brignole. — Fruit middle-aized ; pale 
yellow and red ; flet^h rich, perfumed ; an excellent fruit either raw or in sweet- 
meats ; ripens about the beginning of September. 

9. Myrobalan, (Pninus Ccrasifera) Cherry Plum. — Native of North America- 
Fruit very small, round ; red ; flesh ?\veet. Tree thorny, and blossoms early ; 
ripens about the beginning of September. 

10. Orleans, Wilmot's. — Originated by Wilmot, an extensive market-gardener 
at Isleworth, in 1808 ; larger than the old Orleans, round ; dark purple ; flesh rich 



486 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



and juicy ; an esteemed fruit, and great bearer ; npcns about trtc middle ol 
September. 

11. IlocHECORDON, or A'i Z)/V?;)fr, Diaprei Rouge. — Fruit large, red; flesh very 
high-flavored ; ripens about the beginnirig of Scpteciiber. 

12. Green Gage, Rcinc Claude. — Fruit small, round; yellowuh green, where 
ripened upon a wall exposed to the sim becomes almost of a dark russet, and is the 
highest flavored plum, and most useful for every domestic purpose that we have. It 
ripens in September, and is both a hardy tree, and exceedingly good bearer. All the 
sub-varieties of this plum are good. The name of Green Gage is said to have ori- 
ginated by the family of Gage, in the last century, procuring from the monks of the 
Chartreuse at Paris, a collection of fruit-trees; when these arrived, the names of ah 
of them was affixed upon them, except the Reinc Claude, the name of which had 
been lost in the passage. The gardener, being from this circumstance ignorant of 
the name, called it, when it bore fruit, the Green Gage, from its green color and the 
family in whose possession it was. 

13. Gree.n Gage, Isleworth. — A seedling of Wilmot's, of that place. 

11. Little Queen Claudia. — Fruit small; whitish yellow and red; flesh rich; 
ripens in September. 

15. La Royale. — Fruit middle-sized, roundish; light red; whitish within; 
nearly equal to the green gage ; ripens about the end of September ; is rather ashy 
bearer. 

16. Cheston, or Matchless. — Fruit middle-sized, oval; dark blue; flobh rich; 
great bearer ; ripens about the end of September. 

17. Drap d'Or, Cloth of Gold. — Fruit small, oblong; yellow; flesh very high- 
flavored ; ripens about the end of September; is a great bearer. 

18. Apricot 1*li'M. — Fruit large ; pale yellow and white; flesh swoot ; is ripe 
in October. 

19. Maitre Claude. — Fruit large, round; whitish; flesh sweet; an excellent 
fruit ; ripens about the beginning of October. 

20. La MiRADELLE. — Fruit small ; amber coloured ; flesh juicy and very sweet; 
is a great bearer ; and is ripe in September or beginning of October. 

21. St. Catherine. — Is one of our best plums, either for the dessert or culinary 
purposes ; flesh juicy and sweet ; a great bearer ; hangs longer upon the tree than 
any other. It is frequent in gathering for six weeks together ; ripens about the end 
of September. 

22. Larue White Damask. — Fruit middle-sized, oval; pale yellow; flesh firm 
and well-tasted. Tree great bearer ; ripens about the beginning of October. 

23. Prunelle. — Fruit small, long-pointed; white; chiefly used for drying; 
npens in October. 

24. GoLUTH, Nectarine, Caledonian. — Frmt very large. Hardy free growing 
tree. Ripens in October. 

25. Damascene, Black Sj.aniih, or Prunes. — Not often cultivated. Is a useful 
fruit. 

26. Dauphine Gaqe, or Great Queen C7aw<fia.— Fruit small, round ; yellowish 
green ; flesh rich and musky ; an excellent plum ; ripens in September or beginning 
of October. 

27. Blub Imperatrice, or Violet.— FrnM small, oval; dark colored; hangs long 
on the tree ; flavor fine ; is one of our best kite plums ; ripens in October. 

28. Coe's Golden Drop, St. Edmund's, Bury, Coc's, Coe's Imperial, Golden 
Drop, New Golden Drop, and Bury Seedling. — Fruit large, oval; yellow ; flesh firm, 
juicy, and high-flavored; keeps till the end of December; one of our most valuable 
late plums ; is a good bearer ; and ripens about the middle of October. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



4^7 



29. Coe's Fine Late Red. — Fruit nearly equal to the last. 

30. Precoce de Tours. — Fruit very large, coarse-skinned, and harsh; useful for 
culinary purposes ; a gi-eat bearer; ripens in October. 

31. Red Magnum Boxum, Red Imperial. — Fruit large, egg-shaped; red; when 
well ripened an excellent fruit; at all times useful for culinary purposes. 

32. White Magnum Bonum, White Imperial — Fruit large; egg-shaped; yellow 
when well ripened ; an excellent fruit ; luscious and showy; extremely Tiseful for 
preserving ; ripens in October ; great bearer ; deserves a wall in most situations. 

I 33. DAriER Blue, Violet Dapier. \ 

I 34. Damask Violet. ( ^^^^^^ P^^""^' "''P'" ^" October. 

35. Wentwortii, Monsicurs. — Fruit large, resembling the white imperial; an 
excellent plum for culinary purposes, is too sharp to be eaten raw ; ripens in Oc.*.:>ber; 
is a great bearer. 

3G. White Imperatuice. — Resembling the blue imperatrice, except in color. 

37. Blue Gage. — Inferior to the other gages, but a good plum, and a good 
bearer. 

38. Damson, the Shropshire Damson, or Prune Damson is the best. — It is propa 
gated either by sowing the stones, or by suckers from the roots. Excellent for pre- 
serving; ripens about the end of September, and continues in use as long as unin» 
jured by frost. 

30. BuLLACE, {Primus /;;.s7i7m.) — Fruit small, round; green, black, and white ; 
the fruit used for culinary purposes. Tree hardy, and a great bearer ; is not 
fit for the dessert. 

40. Muscle. — Used for the same purposes as the above. 

41. Wine Sour.— A Yorkshire fruit. Fruit somewhat small, oval ; singular fla- 
vor, rather agreeable when over-ripe, and shrivelled. It is generally used for pre- 
serving ; great bearer, and tree hardy. 

42. Damson, Common Damson. — Much used for preserving; great bearer; and 
lasts upon the tree for some time after it is ripe. Ripens in October. 

43. Damson, White. — Inferior to the last sort ; ripens at the same time. 

44. Golden Gage. — Inferior to the green gage ; a good bearer ; ripens in 
September. 

4.5. Downton Imperatrice.— Originated by Knight, about 1823, from a seed 
of the White Magnum Bonum, and the pollen of the Blue Imperatrice ; resembles 
the Blue Im]>eratrice 'u\ shape, but is rather larger, and not so much lengthened at 
the stalk end. Skin thin ; color dull yellow ; flesh also yellow, soft, and juicy ; 
stone small and flattish. 



CHERRIES. 



Cherry, Prumis Ccrasus, Linnceus, — belongs to the class and order Icosandria 
Monogynia, and are arranged in the natural order Rosacea;. 

Is considered by Botanists as a native of Britain, and entered in all our Bri- 
tish Floras as such. The cultivated cherry is a native of Asia and Europe, and was 
brought by the Romans into Italy from Cerasus, a town in Pontus, 73 years before 
tlie birtb of Christ ; and was introduced by them into this country 120 years after- 



4>88 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



wards. Some suppose, that those introduced by the Romans were lost in this country, 
and that they were again introduced by the fruiterer to Henry the Eighth. Lidgate, 
a poet of the fifteenth century, says, that they were exposed to sale in the streets 
of London before his time, much in the same way that they are at present. The 
gum which exudes from the stem and larger branches, when wounded, is consider- 
able, and resembles gum-arabic ; it is supposed to be very nutritious. Hasselquist 
says, that more than a hundred men were preserved from starving, during a long- 
protracted siege, by letting small pieces of this gum dissolve gradually in their 
mouths ; and that they lived nearly two months upon no other nourishment. 

There are many kinds of this fruit cultivated ; and the wild varieties are very 
numerous, as they are yearly propagated from seed. The Romans were acquainted 
with eight sorts. Tusser, in 1573, mentions red and black. Parkinson, in Charles 
the First's time, mentions 31 sorts ; and Philip Miller 18 sorts. The nursery cata- 
logues of the French and English cultivators include from 50 to 80 names. That 
of the Horticultural Society enumerates 21C varieties ; of these 111 only are con- 
sidered as cultivated in the Hritish gardens; and of that number, nine are considered 
varieties of Morello, four black-hearts, four May Dukes, and four white-hearts. 
The French divide their cherries into three classes: Bigarreatuc, or hard-fleshed 
ones ; Griottcs, or tender-fleshed ones ; and Guignes, geans or small fruits. We in 
general only make the distinction between cherries and geans : the former including 
what the French make two classes of. 

1. May Duke. — Fruit middle-sized, round; red; flesh soft and pleasant; one 
of our best and most generally cultivated cherries ; upon a wall, in favourable situa- 
tions, it ripens about the beginning of June. It is a great bearer, either upon a wall, 
espalier, or standard. 

2. Early Mat Duke. — Is similar to the above, but much smaller, and not by 
any means so useful a fruit. 

3. Arcii-DUKE. — Fruit middle size, round, and lighter in color than the last. 
Is ripe in June. 

4. Early Hlac k. — Originated by Knight, in 181G, from the Graflfion and May 
Duke. Resembles the Waterloo. Middle-sized, round, and pointed ; black ; flesh 
soft, not juicy. It is said to be earlier than either of the three last, but it is not, ac- 
cording to our experience ; indeed, if any difference, under the same circumstances, 
we would say that it is scarcely so early. 

5. Late Duke. — Can only be considered a variety of the arch-duke, which 
may from circumstances ripen a few days later. 

6. Hlack Tartarian, Fraser's Black Tartarian, Black Russian, Circassian, 
Superb Dittn, Ronald's Black-heart, Ronald's Heart, Fraser's Bla(k-)wart. — Intro- 
duced from Russia by M. Fraser, Nurseryman, Sloane-square, in 179C. Fruit large, 
roundish ; black ; flesh firm ; flavor good- Tree a good bearer ; ripens beginning of 
July. 

7. White Tartarian, Fraser's WhiU Tartarian, Fraser's White Transparent, 
Lady Southanipton's, Lady Southampton's Duke, Lady Southampton's Yellow. — Fruit 
white and transparent ; flavor good ; excellent bearer ; and ripens with the last. 

8. Black Eagle.— Originated by Knight, from the Graffion and May Duke, in 
1814; the seed sown in ISOG. Fruit large, rather round; beautiful dark red, eo- 
rered with a delicate bloom ; flesh firm, sweet, and high-flavored Tree very luxu- 
riant and hardy, an excellent bearer, leaves unusually large. The first produce of 
fruits from seed is not so fine as they will be after a year or two. A striking instance 
of this occurred with this cherry w hen first presented at the table of the Horticul- 
tural Society. It was then (being in an imperfect state from want of age) thought 
by the Fruit Committee to be good for nothing. The fruit now rivals in richness of 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



4*89 



flavor as well as beauty, nlmost any cherry that we possess. A similar drcum- 
stance occurred with the Spring Grove peach ; the first fruits of which were so harsh 
and austere, that the original tree was absolutely thrown away, and this would 
have been lost to us, had not by chance a bud of it been introduced into an old tree 
before the original showed fruit. 

9. Holman's Duke. — Ripens in July. 

10. BiGARREAU. ^ 

11. BiGARREAU Black. v Excellent cherries. Ripen in July. 

12. BiGARREAU Turkey. J 

13. Elton. — Originated by Knight, in 1814, from the White-heart and Graffion. 
Fruit large, heart-shaped ; flesh soft, sweet, juicy, and delicate. Tree very hardy 
and luxuriant ; great bearer. 

14. Kentish. — Fruit middle-size ; light red ; agreeably acid ; fit for culinary 
purposes; not much esteemed for the table. Ripens in July; great bearer on stand- 
ards, in which way it is generally planted. 

15. Herefordshire Heart. — Fruit middle size ; flesh firmer and of finer flavor 
than hearts in general ; ripens about the end of July or beginning of August. 

16. Gascoicne's Heart, or Bleeding Heart. — Fruit very large, of an oblong 
form ; dark colojr; flesh firm, and pleasant flavor ; ripens the end of July. 

17. Harrison's Heart. — Introduced from the East Indies by Governor Har- 
rison, in 1709, and first cultivated at Balls, in Hertfordshire. Some of the trees 
were by him presented to George the First, and planted in Kensington fruit garden, 
and continued above 100 years to produce excellent crops of fruit. 

18. Carnation. — Fruit large, round; red and white; flesh soft, not sweet; 
showy fruit ; ripens the end of July. 

19. Black Heart. — Fruit rather large, heart-shaped, and very black and glossy, 
often staining the hand while gathering it; flesh firm, sweet; much esteemed; 
rather shy bearer. 

20. Waterloo. — Originated by Knight from the May Duke and Ambree, or 
GraflBon. Fruit large, conical ; deep red ; flesh firm and high-flavored ; ripens 
the end of July. Tree luxuriant, and good bearer. It received its name from 
the eventful battle which was fought a few weeks previously to its ripening. First 
exhibited to the Horticultural Society in 1815. 

21. Corone, Coroiai, Caroon. — Originated 
frona seed of the Primus Avium, or small- 
frmted cherry ; an excellent fruit. Tree hardy, 
and a good bearer ; ripens in August. 

22. Wild Red-fruited Cherry. 

23. Merrt Cherry of Cheshire. 

24. Wild Black-fruited Cherry. 

25. Black Mazzard. 

26. Common Black Buckinghamshire. 

27. Wild large Black. I 

28. Flemish. 

29. Lukward's Heart. ( These may be cultivated for variety. Their 

30. Shailer's new Grizzly. ^ merits are not equal to the first 20 sorts. 
SI. Yellow, or Golden, j 

32. Florence. — Introduced from Florence by John Archer Hublon, Esq. nt 
1780. Two trees were introduced, one of which was planted in his own garden, at 
Hallingbury Place, in Essex, and the other at the Priory, in the same county. For the 
knowledge of this most excellent cherry we are faidebted to Walter Calvart, Esq. of 
Hunsdon, in Hertfordshire, who received a young tree of it from Richard Vachell, Escj. 

3 R 



These are all native English frmts, 
and may be cultivated in the or- 
* chard for variety ; not one of them 
merits a wall. 



4^)0 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



who found it in the garden of the Priory some years after its introduction. Af 
the original trees are dead, this fruit might liave still been unknown to us, had not 
Mr. Calvart presented grafts of it to the Hon. Society; in which collection it haj 
been deservedly propagated. Fruit middle size, heart-shaped ; beautiful pale red ; 
flesh firm, sweet, and rich ; much esteemed at Florence ; ripens in September. Trco 
hardy, and a good bearer. 

33. Whitk Heart. — Fruit large, ncart-shaped ; a shy bearer ; one of our finest- 
flavored cherries when ripe ; ripens in September. 

34. MoRiiLLo, or Milan. — Fruit large, round; light red; becomes dark when 
very ripe, or on a south wall ; flesh soft and acid. Ripens in September, and will 
keep till December. Generally planted on standards and north aspects ; when 
planted on a south wall, or trained over the wall from the north aspect to the south, 
is much improved in size and flavor. It is the most useful cherry we have for culi- 
nary i>urpn.>e<, and is a prerit bearer. 



In the llurticultural Society's Catalogues arc enumerated 12 varieties of this class 
of cherries, but there are many more cultivated in Scotland. Some of them, although 
very small, are extremely high-flavored. Those that are most worth cultivating, 
are — 

3.). P>L.\CK IIuxr..\Ri.\N. 



30. White Ditto ' '"'^ 



\ Very 

37. LuNDiE.— First cultivated at a seat of Lord Duncan's, near Dundee, of that 
name. 

38. Transparent. 

39. White Swiss. 

40. Castle Mf.nzies. — Froin a venerable seat of Sir N. .Meiizies, Bart, in 
Braedalbane. 

41. Large Black. — Flesh of which is hard, and apt to crack ; flavor good. 

42. Amber. 

These may be introduced into the park, where their various habits will give va- 
riety, and the beautiful red tinge which their decaying leaves assume in autumn, 
give a color to the landscape highly interesting. 



FIGS. 



Fig, Fictts Carica, Linna-us, — belongs to the class and order Poli/gamia Diacia^ 
and ranks in the natural order Vrtirca: 

Is a native of Asia ; naturalized in the south of Europe, and forms trees as large 
as our apples. It seldom acquires any magnitude as a standard here, although in 
the Isle of Wight there are some trees of considerable size. It is with us, as is the 
case in every part of Europe, a deciduous tree, while in tropical countries it is ever- 
green. The fig is supposed to have been introduced here by Cardinal Pole, in 1525, 
and still exists in the garden of the archbishop, in Lambeth. Some of these trees 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



491 



cover a space of fifty feet in height and forty in bieadlli. The trunk of one of them 
is twenty-eight inches in girth, and another is twenty-one. They are of the white 
Marseilles sort, and bear delicious fruit. In the garden of the Regius Professor of 
Hebrew, at Oxford, is a fig-tree brought from Aleppo, and planted by Dr. Pocock 
in 1643 ; bears a black fruit, and is in a thriving state. Philip Miller introduced 
about twelve sorts from Italy ; before his time this firuit appears to have been Htile 
thought of, and scarcely cultivated. It is cultivated here merely for the dessert ; 
but its cultivation becomes a matter of great importance to the inhabitants in fig 
countries, who not only derive a considerable profit by the exportation of this fruit, 
in the well-known form that it is met with in our shops, but also as an article of 
food, which they prepare in a variety of ways, both in a ripe and unripe state. 
There are few tables in France and Italy which do not produce this fruit in some 
shape or other, either fried or stewed, or as an addition to their desserts. We are 
supplied chiefly with our preserved figs from Spain, the south of France, Italy, and 
the isles and shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Figs should not be planted near 
meat-safes or larders, as they have the singular property to intenerate the contents 
sooner than may be desirable. Philips (in Pom. Brit.) relates an experiment made upon 
a haunch of venison, which had lately been killed, being hung up in a fig-tree when 
the leaves were on, about ten o'clock in the evening, and was removed before sun- 
rise in the morning, when it was found in a perfect state for cooking. A somewhat 
similar circumstance occurred to a friend of ours, who had a fig-tree planted against 
the walls of his house, some of the branches of which were trained near the window 
of his pantry ; during the whole of the summer he could not keep a bit of meat for 
many hours without its becoming almost putrescent ; this occasioned many altercations 
between hira and the butcher, till at length he betook himself to reason the matter, 
and being a shrewd intelligent person, removed the cause by placing the branches 
of the fig at a greater distance. After tliis his meat kept as well as it did before the 
fig was planted. 

This tree is cultivated as a standard in those countries which produce the finest 
figs; and such as are standards in this country, where the situation is favorable, are 
much more productive than when upon walls or espaliers in equally favorable 
situations. 

The number of varieties of this fruit are supposed to be great, but possibly far 
short of the number of names in our nursery and other catalogues. In fig countries 
they are produced from seeds so readily, that many varieties are yeai-ly springing 
up. Many have been raised in this country from seeds, particularly by the late 
Mr. Lee, of the Hammersmith Nursery. It is supposed that there may be, as far as 
can be ascertained, about 25 distinct varieties worth cultivating. The Horticultural. 
Society enumerates 75 varieties as cultivated in their gardens. It is by forming 
such collections of names, and by a judicious comparison of the fruits, that we are 
to arrive at any degree of perfection in the naming or selecting of fruits. 

1. Brown IscHiA. — Fruit globular, with a pretty large eye ; large; pinched in 
near the fooli^talk ; color brown or chestnut on the outride, purple within ; flesh 
sweet and high-flavored ; containing largish grains. Ripens about the end of July 
or beginning of August. If planted upon a hot wall, will produce two crops annu- 
ally. Originally from the island of Ischia. 

2. Black Genoa. — Fruit long, swelling pretty large at the top, where it is obtuse^ 
the lower or part next the foot-stalk very slender ; color dark purple, approaching 
to black, having a delicate bloom over it, like some sorts of grapes and plums, which 
is easily destroyed by handling ; inside color bright red ; flesh high-flavoured ; 
ripens early in August. 



^92 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



3. Early White. — Fruit small, roundish, somewhat flattened at the crown; 
foot-stalk very short ; skin thin; color white; when fully ripe, of a whitish yellow ; 
'nsidc color also white; flesh sweet, but not very high-flavored ; ripens about the 
middle of August. Under favorable circumstances produces two crops annually. 

4. Genoa, Larfie White. — Fruit large, globular, somewhat lengthened towards 
the stalk ; skin thin ; flesh high-flavored ; color yellowish when ripe ; inside color 
red ; ripens about the end of August. Will, under favorable circumstances, produce 
two crops annually. 

5. Black IsciiiA. — Fruit short, middle-sized, somewhat flattened at the crown; 
color black when ripe ; inside color deep red ; flesh very hi_L,'h -flavored ; ripens in 
August. An excellent bearer. Originally from the island of Ischia. 

Cy. Malta. — Fruit small, much compressed at the top; much pinched towards 
the foot-sUilk ; color pale brown, both outside and in ; flesh very sweet and well- 
flavored ; ripens in August ; but when left to shrivel upon the tree, becomes very 
delicious. 

7. Murray, ot Broum Naples. — Fruit rather largish, globular; color light brown 
on the outiide, with faint marks of a dirty w hite ; the inside of nearly the same 
color ; flesh well-flavored ; ripens about the beginning of September. 

8. Blue, or Purple. — Fruit pretty large, oblong ; color dark blue or purple. Is 
a good bearer ; ripens in August. 

9. Naples, Large Black. — Fruit long ; somewhat compressed at the end ; foot- 
etalks pretty long ; leaves more deeply divided than in most other varieties ; color 
dark brown when fully ripe ; inside color inclining to red ; flesh high-flavored ; ripens 
in September. 

10. Italian, Broum Naples, Brown Turkey. — Fruit snaall ; color, both outside and 
in, brown ; flesh rich and delicious. Is of slender habits, and well calculated to force 
when planted in pots or small boxes. 

11. Green Ischia. — Fruit oblong, almost globular at the crown; skin thin and 
delicate ; color green, but when ripe the purple flesh shines through the thin skin, 
and gives it the appearance of being stained with purple ; fle.sh high-flavored ; ripens 
about the beginning of September. 

12. Brunswick, Hanwer, Madonna. — Fruit long, pyramidal; large; outside 
color brown ; flesh light brown, coarse, and of little flavor ; ripens about the begin- 
ning of September. 

13. Lee's Perpetual. — Originated by the late Mr. Lee. Is one of the best 
bearing fig» we have, and should be introduced into all fig collections. 

14. Gentile. — Fruit middle-sized, globular; color yellow when ripe; flesh of 
nearly the same color ; ripens late, and is a bad bearer. 

15. Ischia Small Brown. — Fruit pyramid d and small, with very short f.>ot- 
stalks ; color brown ; flesh inclining to purple; very high-flavored ; ripens in Sep- 
tember, and is an excellent bearer. 

IC. Ischia Yellow, Cyprus. — Fruit large, pyramidal; color yellow when rijie; 
flesh purple, and well-flavored ; ripens in September, and is but an indifferent 
bearer. 

17. White M auseii l.r.s.— ll.i.-, l^cn long in this country. Is a pood bearer, 
and high-flavored fig. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



493 



VINES. 



Vine, Vitis Vinifera, Linnaus, — belongs to the class and order Pentandria Motio- 
gynia, and ranks in tlie natural order Viticeee. 

The vine is supposed to be a native of Persia, and to have migrated from Persia 
'nto Egypt, Greece, and Sicily. From the latter country it ic thought that it found 
ts way into Italy, Spain, and France ; and is supposed to have been there cultivated 
in the second century. In America they possess their varieties of vines, but they 
are believed to be varieties of Vitis Vulpina, or Vitis Labrtuca. From the reports that 
have been received of them, they are not likely to be of much advantage either for 
the table or the press. It is a native of most of the temperate parts of the world. 
In very cold regions it will not grow ; and within from 25° to 30° of the equinoctia[ 
line it seldom succeeds so as to produce good fruit. In the northern hemisphere, 
the proper vine country, is from 25° to 51° north latitude, or from Schiraz, in 
Persia, to Coblentz on the Rhine ; but some vineyards are to be met with as far 
north as Dresden, and in Moravia. The juice of the grape was vvell known to the 
ancients, and if not to the antediluvian world, it was soon after; for Noah, a short 
time after the deluge, planted a vineyard, and made wine. Vineyards were abundant 
and some of them of great magnitude, in the days of the patriarchs ; Solomon had an 
extensive one at Baalhamon, which he let. The Canaanites, and other nations through 
which the Israelites passed on their march towards the promised land, had vineyards, 
as we find mention frequently made of them in the treaties and provisions made by 
the Israelites for leave to pass through certain countries. Canaan was productive of 
grapes of an enormous size ; as we find Caleb and Joshua bringing a bunch sup- 
ported upon men's shoulders, to testify of the fruitfulness of the land. It has in 
all countries, and in the postdiluvian ages, been a favorite fruit of mankind, not 
only as a delicacy, but as an article of food. In temperate climates, it was eaten 
with bread, either fresh from the tree, or dried as raisins ; and in these countries, 
from the fermented juice, wine was made, which is supposed to be of all other 
liquors the most stimulating for the stomach and exhilarating for the spirits of man. 
The medical properties of the vine are numerous ; but whether it has been produc- 
tive of most good or most harm to man, will for ever remain one of those mysteries 
which the reasoning of man can never solve. The vine is very rich in its products. 
The celebrated Hampton Court Hamburg, has been known in one year to produce 
2,200 bunches, of nearly a pound each, making in all nearly a ton weight, and is 
above a hundred years old, and covers a space of above 116 square yards ; 
another at Valentine's, in Essex, covers 147 square yards, and has produced 
a weight of fruit nearly equal to that at Hampton Court. There is one of the 
same variety as that first mentioned in our catalogue, in the royal gardens at 
Cumberland Lodge, of nearly the same dimensions, and produces crops equally 
abundant. The durability of the timber is great, and instances have occurred of 
the stem acquiring a size sufficient to admit of planks being cut out of them fifteen 
inches broad ; and one lately dead in Yorkshire, measured four feet in circum- 
ference. The branches also grow both rapidly, and extend to a great distance from 
the stem. In the hedges in Italy, and other wine countries, they overtop the 
highest growing trees. The fruit, under good management, acquires a great size 
and weight; bunches of the Syrian, one of our largest grapes, have been grown in 
this country, weighing nearly twenty pounds ; and the same variety in Syri.i has 



40t 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



been known to exceed forty pounds weight. It is supposed to equal, if not to exceed, 
the oak in longevity; four and six hundred years being given by Pliny and Hose, 
as its ordinary age. The Burgundy vineyards are many of them four hundred 
years old ; and many of tliose in Italy are still flourishing, which are known to be 
above three hundred. Vine-growers reckon the vine young at one hundred years ; 
and many of those in England, still in prosperity, are equally old. 

At what period the vine was introduced into Britain is not exactly known. It is, 
however, generally admitted to liave been brought from Italy by the Romans ; and 
if not so early as the days of the Romans, it was afterwards introduced by the reli- 
gious hordes who visited this country, either for the purpose of the conversion of its 
inhabitants, or more probably in search of an asylum from the persecutions of some 
of the Roman emperors. Tacitus, in A.D. 79, considered the soil and climate of 
this country unfit for the vine. However, in the third century, under the Emperor 
Probus, we find, not only the vine cultivated, but also wine made. It is very pro- 
bable that the Roman generals cultivated this fruit, the want of which they would 
naturally feel ; and as they introduced the cherry, and built and ornamented villas 
after the fashion of their own country, it is very probable that they also introduced 
the vine. The venerable Bede, in 731, expressly says, that there were vineyards in 
many places ; and as the clergy from his time till the reformation assiduously cul- 
tivated fruits round their monasteries, there is every probability that they also culti- 
vated the vine, with the use of which they were so well acquainted before their 
retreat and during their visits to Italy. Vines may have been neglected and ulti- 
mately lost here after the dissolution of religious houses ; and as we held several 
French provinces in subjettion in the time of the Henries, from whence wine may 
have been procured sufficient for the then small consumption, the cultivation of it 
might have been abandoned. 

It does not appear that the making of wine in this country would be of any 
national importance, otherwise we might have our vineyards and wine presses as 
well as our orchards and cider mills. It is sufficiently proved, by repeated success- 
ful experiments, that we could produce wines in the southern parts of England as 
good a^ many of those imported. Individuals, in favorable situations, may find much 
real satisfaction in forming vineyards and drinking their own produce. The Duke 
of Norfolk had a vineyard at Arundel Castle, from which was made excellent bur- 
gundy ; and Warner, with whom Warner's Black Hamburg originated, made also 
good wine from his vineyard at Rotherhithe. An excellent champagne was made by 
the Hon. C. Hamilton, at Painshill. At present, Mr. J. Kirk, of the Brompton Nursery, 
has a wall of 220 yards long covered with white muscidine grapes, which for many 
years has borne immense crops. In front of thi-s wall are cultivated vines of the 
same grape upon standards, or rather trained to poles about four feet high, which, 
although the fruit does not always ripen, yet they bear great crops, and would pro- 
duce very good wine. 

The varieties of grape-vines are extremely numerous ; many of them, it must be 
confessed, are the effect of soil and cultivation ; and many kinds are kept in the 
British nursery gardens for supplying the British foreign possessions with wine 
varieties, rather than for any purpose to which they may be supposed to be appli- 
cable in this country. Tusser, in 1560, only speaks of white and red grapes. Par- 
kinson, in 1627, enumerates 23 sorts. Ray, in 168S, says that 12 sorts were in re- 
quest. Rea, in 1702, enumerates 17 sorts. In the catalogue of the Luxemburg col- 
lection, are enumerated 267 sorts. And the librarian to the botanic garden oi 
Madrid, has described 120 sorts. The lists of both the Paris and London nurseries arc 
very numerous ; and the Horticultural Society's Catalogue enumerates 159 varieties 
of Fitis Vinifcra; three varieties of Vitis Vol^una, and five of Htis Labrusca ; from 

t 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



405 



the two last species are supposed to have originated all the American vines indige- 
nous to that country. 

1. Hamburg, Black (True.) — Bunches large; berries large, oblong; color 
black ; pleasant and vinous flavor ; a great bearer, and one of the best grapes we 
have; on which account we bave given the figure of it, preferring it to all others, 
as being the most universally cultivated. 

2. Hamdlrg, Warner's Black, Black Hamburg, Warner's, Red Hamburg, 
Gibraltar, Hampton Court Vine. — Originated before 1730, by Warner, a gentleman 
of Rotherhithe. Bunches large ; berry large, and thin-skinned; reddish* or dirty 
rose color ; is a great bearer, and reckoned the best of the Hamburgs. 

3. Hambcrq Purple. — Resembles the Black Hamburg, except in color. 
Bunches large ; berries large ; color dark purple ; flavor good ; and a good bearer. 

4. Hambi'RG, White, Lisbon, Portugal. — Bunches middling-sized; berries 
large ; color white ; rather an indifferent bearer. 

5. Hamburg, Brown. — Resembling the black Hamburg, except in color. 

6. Aleppo, Striped Aleppo, Variegated Grapes. — Bunches middle-sized ; berriea 
middle-sized ; frequently striped black and white ; flesh juicy ; fine flavor. 

7. Alicant, Black Spanish. — Fruit black; flavor good. 

8. Black Cluster, Burgundy, Auvernat, Black Burgundy. — Originally from 
Burgundy. Bunches small, berries small, sitting close together ; black and ovai 
flavor pleasant ; leaves hoary; a great bearer, and good wall-fruit; seldom intro- 
duced into grape-houses. 

9. Black July, Early, Raisin Precoce, Madeleine, Maurillon, Madeleine Noire. 
— An old variety, originally from France. Bunches small ; berries small, globular , 
black ; flavor sugary ; most esteemed for being early ripe j seldom planted in grape ■ 
houses ; ripens upon the open walls. 

10. Black Prince. — Bunches large; berries very large, globular; dark brown, 
or black ; one of our best grapes, and should hold a place in every vinery. 

11. Black Raisin. — Originated from Languedoc. Bunches middle-sized; 
berries large, thick-skinned, oblong, and black ; not much esteemed. 

12. Burgundy, Miller's, Le Mcunicr, Miller's, Miller's Cluster, TJie Miller 
Grape. — Originated from seed by PhiHp Miller, about 1720. Bunches middle size; 
berries middle size, oblong, and black; flavor rough; great bearer, and very 
hardy; excellent wine grape; cultivated as such in 1750, in the vineyard at 
Painshill. 

13. Black Cluster, Large.— Sent from Portugal in 1710, to Speechiy. Bunches 
middle-sized ; berries middle-sized, oblong, and black ; flavor rough and harsh ; 
excellent for wine. 

14. Chasselas, Chasselas de Fontaineblcau, Chasselas Dord, Royal Muscadine. — 
Supposed to have been introduced in 16G0, by Sir William Temple. Bunches large ; 
berries middle-sized ; color white ; and round shaped ; flavor rich ; an excellent 
bearer, and deserves a place in every vinery, particulariy for late crops. 

15. Black Frankendale, Black Muscadine, FranhenlhaL—An old and ap- 
proved variety. Bunches middle-sized; berries middle-sized, round, and black; 
flavor rich and juicy ; is well calculated for the open walls, and is a great bearer. 
This is the Black Hamburg of the continental gardens. 

16. Black Damascus, IVorksop Manor Grape.— Bunches largish; berries large, 
round, and black. An excellent high-flavored grape, well calculated for late 
crops. 

• Soil and cultivation mav probably affect the color; if so, the two first grapes are the same* 
as it is only in that character that they difTer. 



40G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



17. ESPERIONE, ]{ar(hj Blue, Windsor, Turner's B/«cA-.— Bunches middle sa« ; 
berries middle-sized, round, and black ; great bearer, and very hardy ; brought into 
notice by John Aiton, Esq., of Windsor. 

18. Claret, Blood Red. — Bunches rather small ; berries small, round, and dark 
red, approaching to black ; flavor harsh, and claret tasted ; great bearer, and hardy ; 
juice red. The leaves are used to color wines made from white fruit, such as white 
grapes, gooseberries, &c., and the leaves have been found to make a tolerable wine, 
of a red color. 

19. Amiens, Leon. — Very hardy grape, well suited for the open walls. 

20. LoMBARDY, FUimc colored Tokay, Brick Grape. — Bunches large; berries 
largish ; brick colored ; flavor good. 

21. FuoNTiGNAC, White, Z?/fl«c.— Bunches middle-sized ; berries large, 
round, and white, when well ripened approaching amber colored; flavor good. 
One of our most esteemed grapes for hot-houses or vineries. 

22. Fkontignac, Red, Muscat Rouge. — Bunches middle-sized ; berries large, 
oval, and brick colored ; a muck eiteemed grape. 

23. Frontignac Grizzly, Muscat Gm.— Bunches small; berries middle sized, 
round ; brownish, red, and yellow ; rather shy bearer ; flavor exquisite ; keeps long 
on the tree, and often becomes shrivelled when over ripe. 

21. Frontignac, Blue. — Like all the Frontignacs, of great merits, they are all 
rather delicate, and should, therefore, be planted in a house by themselves, and 
never amongst strong growing sorts, like the llamburgs or Muscat of Alexandria, 
as they are apt to rob them of their due share of nourishment. 

25. Frontignac Black, Muscat Noir. — Bunches rather small ; berries middle- 
sized, round, and black ; flavor rich and vinous ; well calculated for the open walls, 
and equally deserving a place in the vinery. 

2G. Corinth, Black, Zant, Black Ascalon, CM/rnn/.— This is the currant of the 
shops. Originally from Ascalon in Palestine, and was early introduced into this 
country. Bunches small ; berries small, round, and black ; being generally without 
stones. The white Corinth is similar, except in color. Seldom cultivated. 

27. Amber Mi scADiNE, common White Muscadine. — Introduced by Sir William 
Temple ill 1660. Bunches middle size; berries middle size, round, and white; a 
great bearer, and well calculated for the open wall. 

28. Syrian. — Bunches very large; berries very large, long, and white. The 
largest of all our grapes, has been grown nearly twenty pounds weight ; coarse fruit, 
with hard flesh, and thick skin ; is a good bearer ; not much in cultivation. 

29. Raisin, White. — Bunches large and straggling; berries large, long, and 
white ; good bearer ; hangs long on the trees, and w hen fully ripe of a good flavor. 

30. St. Peter's, West's. — Bunches large ; berries middle size, round, and dark 
brown or black; a good bearer, and excellent grape for late crops, keeps long on the 
vine. Fruit ripe in October, will keep till March. 

31. St. Peter's Black. — Bunches large; berries large, round, and black; juicy, 
and high-flavored ; similar to the above. 

32. White S welt-water. New Dutch. — Bunches largish ; berries large, round, 
and white ; one of our best white grapes. 

33. White Sweet-water, Old. — Fruit less in all it5 parts than the above ; and 
although a good grape, much inferior to the last. 

34. White Sweet-water, Grove End. — So called, having been first observed 
by W. Atkinson, Esq., in his garden at Grove End, its real name being unknown. 
The fruit ripens on the wall more than a fortnight before any other grape. The 
bunches are rather smaller than the Royal Muscadine, and shoulder more than the 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 



497 



Sweet-water. The berries are somewhat of an oval shape ; of a transparent green, 
when forced in tlie house ; and the seeds distinctly seen through the pulp. They 
take a brownish tinge, when grown upon the open walls, particularly towards the 
sun. The skin is extremely thin and delicate ; pulp tender, sweet, and rich. Its 
earliness and beauty recommend it to general cultivation ; and for a wall-grape, 
either to ripen, or make wine, few excel it. 

35. Muscat of Jerusalem, New. — Originated by Miller, in 1738. Bunches 
large ; berries very large ; flavor excellent. 

36. Muscat of Alexandria, White Muscat of Jerusalem^ AlexandrUm Fron- 
tigtmc, Malaga, Passe-Mnsquee. — Bunches large ; berries large ; well adapted for 
the hot-house ; flavor excellent. 

37. Muscat of Lunel, White Lunel. — Bunches middling large; berries large; 
an excellent grape ; high-flavored; and a great bearer. 

38. Black Muscadine. — An old variety, originally from France. Bunches 
middling size ; berries large, long, and black ; flavor good ; and a good bearer. 

39. Black Lisbon.— Introduced from Portugal about 1780. Bunches large; 
berries large ; flavor good ; and an excellent bearer. 

40. Scotch White Cluster. — Originated by a blacksmith at Edinburgh, in 
1812. Bunch middle-sized; berries small, round, and white; very hardy, and a 
great bearer ; well adapted for the open walls. 

41. Red Chasselas, Red Muscadiyie. — Bunches large ; berries small and round ; 
an excellent grape. 

42. Verdelho. — Bunches small ; berries small, oval, and whitish yellow ; flavor 
pretty good ; plant very hardy, and well adapted for the open wall. The well- 
known Madeira wine is understood to be produced in that island from a variety of 
sorts of vines ; but the Verdelho is said to abound the most in those vineyards that 
are most famed for the production of the best wine. It is apt to produce a quantity 
of small seedless berries intermixed with the others, and therefore appears to be 
defective in the parts of fructification, and accounts for its not setting freely. The 
fruit is peculiarly acid till it is fully ripe, and then the flavor is rich and saccharine. 
Introduced by John Williams, Esq., of Pitmaston, about 1807. 

43. Malvoisie, Blue Tokay. — Berries small, powdered with a blueish bloom ; 
flavor vinous. 

44. Muscat OF Alexandria, Red. — Bunches large ; berries large, oblong, red- 
dish ; flavor rich, musky, and vinous. Like all the other Muscats, requires a hot- 
house to bring it to perfection. 

45. The Kishmish Grape.— Introduced by Mr. Oldaker from St. Petersburg, 
in 1812, and cultivated at Spring Grove. Is said to be a native of the island of 
Kisimi, or Kishmish, in the Persian Giilph. A very diminutive grape, the bunches 
seldom exceeding five inches in length, the berries little larger than white currants; 
of a greenish tint, but becoming ultimately of an amber hue. Their flavor is indif- 
ferent, and the berries free of seeds. It is curious and extremely pretty, and has a 
good effect when cultivated in pots, and carried to the table loaded with its strange- 
looking fruit. 

4(5. Vakii:gated Chasselas,— Oiiginated by T. A. Knight, Esq. prior to 1812. 
This variety sprang from a seed of the White Chasselas and the pollen of the Aleppo 
Grape, which readily variegates the leaves and fruit of the offspring of any white 
grape. Bunches middle-size ; berry small, sometimes striped with green ; natural 
color black ; leaves green during summer, but becon>e towards autumn beautifully 
variegattd with red [and yellow, particularly if planted in a light soil, or in pots. 
Plant very hardy, adapted for the open walls, and is a great bearer ; flavor inferior, 

3 8 



408 



llli; rUACTRAL r.ARDENFR. 



but well adapted for making wine. Fruit keeps long after it \s separated from the 
tree, by being hung up in a dry room. 

47. Wantaoe GhaI'E. — The original plant was discovered by Mr. J. ^Vilmot 
growing against the « all of a house at Wantage, in Berkshire, where it had been 
raised from the seed of a dried raisin some years ago. It is a hardy grape, and well 
calculated for the open walls. The bunches are large ; berries nearly lound ; color 
approaching that of the Grizzly Frontignac ; of an exceUent flavor, and a great 
bearer. 

48. The .\lexandrian Cioutat Grape. — Originated by J. Williams, Esq. prior 
to 1S20, from seeds of the Parsley Grape and pollen of the White Muscat of Alex- 
andria. The fruit has all the fleshy firmness of the Muscat of Alexandria, but has 
none of the perfume. The plant is a great bearer, and grows with great vigour. 
The berries, however, set thin on the bunch, but it possesses the good property of 
keeping without withcririg or rotting on the bunch much longer than any other 
grape. It has been known to have kept for three months after disengaged from 
the plant ; namely, from January till .\pril. 

For the description of the la:,t four sorts we are indebted to the Transacticu* 
of the Horticultural Society. 



M E L O N S. 



Melon, Cucumh Mdo, Linnaus, — belongs to the class and orJer Monctcia Mono- 
delphia, and ranks in the natural order Cucurhitacece. The native country of the 
melon is not known. It has been cultivated in this country since 1570, and brought 
here from Jamaica. The varieties of melons are very numerous ; every gardener 
has his favorite sorts, suitable for the purposes for which he grows them ; some 
prefer large showy melons, and others prefer small higluflavorcd ones. Small 
melons are almost always best flavored, and for the most part tlie greatest bearera. 
The English melons most in cultivation are — 



1. Brazilian. 

2. BucHAniAN. 

3. Early Cantaloi p. 

4. Early Rock. 

6. Early Polignac. 

6. Black Rock, Large. 

7. Do. Small. 

8. Do. Lord Vernon's. 

9. Montague Cantaloup. 

10. Netted Cantaloup. 

11. Orange Cantaloup. 

12. Citron. 

13. Scarlet-flesued, Netted. 

14. Pine-apple. 

15. Green-fleisiied. 



16. fJREEN-FLESIIED, EGYPTIAN. 

17. Do. Italian. 

18. Nbtted Succada. 

19. Valentia, or Winter. 

20. Nutmeg. 

21. Hardy Ridge. 

22. Hardy Scarlet Fleshed. 

23. Leyant. 

24. Golden Rock. 

25. Scarlet Rock. 

26. Silver Rock. 

27. Rom ana. 

28. Scarlet FLESHED, Smooth, 

29. Glli:.£N FLESHED I0NUNCaNTAXX>D»> 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



499 



Fhe Winter, or Valentin, is much cultivated in countries bordering oa the 
Mediterranean Sea, particularly in the orange gardens in Toulon, from whence tli« 
Paris market is supplied. It has been lately introduced here by the Horticultural 
Society, but is not likely to be much cultivated. 

The MoNTAGCE Cantaloup. — The Montague Cantaloup originated by Mr. D. 
Anderson, gardener to Lord Montague, at Ditton Park, in 1815. Pine-apple, 
Green-fleshed, Scarlet Rock, and Scarlet-fleshed, are the highest flavored ; but of 
these, as well as the others, many very indifferent sub-varieties are in cultivation, in 
consequence of sufficient care not being paid to keep them from being impregnated 
while in flower by others of more indifferent properties. It is a difficult matter 
10 procure good seed in the first instance, and difficult to continue it good, particularly 
where many sorts are grown in the same garden. Two or three good varieties are 
as much as should be cultivated where the flavor of melons is an object ; and, wheu 
once procured, should be carefully preserved. The French melons are not superior 
to those described above ; but the Persian melons have long been celebrated for their 
excellence. Few, however, of them had found their way into Europe, until wiihin 
\liese few years, and that has been accomplished by the exertions of the Horticul- 
tural Society. These melons differ remarkably from those commonly cultivated i« 
Europe. They are altogether destitute of the thick hard rind, which renders one- 
Jialf of some of our finest melons useless, and are protected only by a skin so thin 
and delicate, that they are subject to injury from causes, which would produce no 
perceptible effect upon the melons of Europe. Tlieir flesh is extremely tender, rich, 
and sweet, and flows copiously with a cool juice which renders them still more 
grateful. They are also abundant bearers, and their fruit is extremely beautiful. 
They are, however found difficult to cultivate, as they require a very high tempera- 
ture, a dry atmosphere, and a very humid soil. They, however, will not endure 
any undue supply of water over their leaves, for if too freely given, it will bring on 
spotting and canker ; and in such ca.ses, the plants often perish before they perfect 
their fruit. The Persian gardeners cultivate them in the open fields, which they take 
care to have intersected in every direction with small streams, between which beds 
are raised, richly manured with pigeons' dung, upon which the melons are planted. 
The chmate being favorable, the Persian cultivator has only to guard against any 
scarcity of v^ater, and a trifling regulation of the vines as they proceed in growth. 
With us the case is different; the ventilation, heat, an 1 water of our hot-beds, or 
other artificial agents, are operating in opposition to each other. Those who have suc- 
ceeded most in the cultivation of these fruits here, have supplied their roots abundantij 
with water, without giving them any over head; and by keeping up a high tempera- 
ture, by strong linings, have been enabled to admit a considerable degree of ventila- 
tion. Care must be taken to guard against damp, and when that appears, should, 
if possible, be removed ; and if the vines be injured by it, apply hot lime in powder 
to the part aflected. Tlie fruit, when set, should be placed upon tiles or bricks, as is 
often practised with our best European melons. Probably training them upon 
a trellice would admit of copious watering at the roots, without injuring the leaves 
and shoots with damp. 

.30. TilF, Damvsha, or Zamsky. — A rati km- curious fruit, of a nearly cylindrical 
form; said to be of excellent flavor, and will keep for some months hung up by the 
stalk, or in nets in a dark room. 

31. The Ispahan, or Sweet Melon. — Is also recommended as a good fruit. 

32. KnsKNci Mllon. — A beautiful egg-shaped fruit, about eight inches lon:> 
by five wide in the middle; color pale yellow, beautifully netted all over; flesh 
nearly white, from an inch and a half to two and a quarter in thickness ; high 
llavorcd, and resembling in texture a well-ripened Heurn' pear ; rind firm, but so 



500 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



thin that all the fleshy part of the fruit may be eaten. It derives its name from the 
village of Keiseng, near Ispahan. 

33. Geree Melon. — Shape oval, and in size measures eight indies in length 
by four and a half in breadth ; sometimes netted, sometimes quite smooth; skin 
mottled with dark sea-green upon a pale ground ; flesh an inch and a half to two 
inches tliick ; bright green; melting; very sweet, and high-flavored. Inferior in 
flavor to no other melon, except the Keiseng, above noticed. Is a good bearer. 
The seed of this melon has been disseminated under the name of the Ostrich Egg 
Melon. 

31. Daree Melon. — Resembling the last in many particulars. Is a much more 
abundant bearer, as well as a larger fruit. Is considered a finer fruit tlian tlie Geree, 
but less highly flavored. 

35. Seen Melon. — Handsome fruit, seven inches long by five wide ; shape ovate; 
surface pale dusky yellow ; regularly and closely netted all over, except a small 
vmmdon at the apex, which is but little marked ; flesh one and a half to two inches 
thick ; pale green, sometimes becoming reddish towards the inside ; very tender 
and juicy. A good bearer, but late in ripening. Derives its name froni Seen, a 
village near Ispahan, from whence it was procured. 

3G. L.MioE Gehmek Melon. — Fruit large and handsome, weighing from five to 
six pounds; shai>ed like a dipresscd sphere; usually six inches deep, but varying 
from seven to nine inches in breadth ; surface sea-green, so closely netted that it 
presents the appearance of shagreen leather ; rind thin ; flesh from one to two inches 
*hick, green, becoming paler towards the inside ; firm, juicy, rich, and high-fla- 
vored ; ripens early both in this country and Persia. It is very prolific, and the fruit 
is the largest Persian melon we have in this v,ountry. 

37. Small Gkrmek Melon.— Ripens about a week before the last, which it 
resembles in figure, but is by no means so fine a fruit, and is an indifferent bearer. 
The vines being tender, are apt to die before the fruit is ripe. 

38. The Green Hoosainee Melon. — A handsouie cgg-shaped fruit, five inches 
long by four broad ; when ripe, of a fine, even, light gieen color; regularly netted 
surface ; the side most exposed becomes of a rather yellowish color ; flesh pole 
greenish white, tender, and delicate ; full of a pleasant sweet juice. Is a great 
bearer, and as hardy as any of them, except the Germek. 

39. The Striped Hoosainee Melon. — Very handsome fruit ; and is an excel- 
lent bearer ; of an ovate figure, measuring from five to six inches in length by four 
or five inches in breadth at the widest part ; flesh white, crisp, juicy, and sweetish, 
but not high-flavored. 

40. The Klrchaing Melon. — A very handsome oval fruit, ten inches long by 
five broad; skin Icmon-colorcd ; flesh white, not very juicy, extremely delic:ite, 
but not high flavored. Is rather an indiflerent bearer; and derives its name from a 
small village near Ispahan. 

41. The Melon of Goorgab. — An oblong fruit, about seven and a half 
nches long by four and a half broad ; of inferior qualities to any of those already 
noticed. 

42. The Queen's Pocket Melon, Early Queen, Queen /Inns Melon, — U a 
variety of Cucumis Dudaine, and is to be considered more a subject of ornament 
than utility. It is the smallest of all the cultivated melon tribe, and is of very indif- 
ferent flavor ; resembling more the fruit of a Passiflora than a melon. 

The description of the Persian Melons in the above list is from the TransactioM 
of the Horticultural Society. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 

CUCUMBERS. 



501 



Cict'MBER, Cucimis Sativus, Linnanis, — belongs to the class and order Monacia 
Monodelphia, and ranks in the natural order Cuciirbitaccce. 

Is a native of the East Indies. It abounds in many parts of the tropical world. 
In Egypt it is abundant, and has been so from the earliest ages ; it is among the 
few fruits mentioned by the Jewish historian. It formed not only an article of 
luxury to the inhabitants of Egypt, but an article of general food, and is by them 
held in high esteem unto this day. The Emperor Tiberius, we are informed by 
Martial, in his Epigrams, and also by Pliny, was so fond of cucumbers, that he had 
them in his garden all the year through, by means of specularia, where they were 
grown in boxes, wheeled out in fine weather, and replaced in the nights, or in cold 
weather. It was introduced here in 1573, and is now cultivated to an astonishing 
extent. Those who have not seen the wagon-loads of them m Covent Garden 
Market, cannot but be surprised to hear of whole fields being annually covered with 
cucumbers, some of which have been known to furnish the London market with 
ten thousand bushels of pickling cucumbers in one week. In Germany and Poland 
barrels of cucumbers are salted and preserved in vinegar from one year to another. 

The names of varieties of cucumbers are so arbitrary, that it would be of little 
use to attempt any thing like a description of them. Every gardener has what he 
calls his own, of which he is careful to keep from being impregnated with the fer- 
tilizing pollen of inferior sorts. The following are esteemed good varieties : — 

1. Flanagan's. — Of nearly two feet in length, and of superior flavor and crisp - 
ness; and is an excellent bearer. 

2. Sparrey's. — An excellent forcing sort, originated with Mr. Adam Sparrey, 
late gardener to Lord Rodney. Is an excellent early forcing one, and a good 
bearer for general crops. 

3. Early Long Prickly. — From five to seven inches long; an excellent sort, 
both as a general bearer and crisp eating fruit. 

4. Early Short Prickly. — From four to five inches long; excellent for early 
forcing, and as good for ridging out for picklers. 

5. Chester Cucumber. — The vines of this variety are disposed to climb by 
means of its tendrils ; the leaves are smaller than any other known variety ; as it 
occupies little room, and is a good bearer, it is calculated for early forcing in large 
pots or boxes; fruit from four to five inches long. 

6. White Tirket. — Is not a great bearer, but is sometimes cultivated for some 
culinary purposes, for which it is thought better adapted than any of the green 
soitj. 

7. Fluted Cucumber. — A Chinese variety, recommended in the Horticultural 
Transactions. 

8. Nepal Cicumber. — Sent by Dr. Wallick from Calcutta to the Horticultural 
Society. Is of large growth, measuring seventeen inches in length, and twenty- 
lour in girth, and weighing usually above twelve pounds. It is sometimes cultivated 
for stewing, but is not hkeiy to become of general culture. 

9. Ki.i . y's Cicimber. — An esteemed Scotch variety, well suited for ft.rcing in 
fiots ; is a hardy free setting sort, and handsome fruft ; from six to twelve inclu;^ iu 
length. 



502 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 

10. SouTUOATE. — A well known cucumber round London; fruit long; fine 
green color ; eats crisp ; and is a good bearer. 

11. Moir's Ccccmber. — Long successfully cultivated by the late Moir, of the 
King's Road. An excellent bearer, and esteenicd fruit. 



PINES. 



Pine Apple, Bromelia Ananas, /.in«/rf«,— belongs to the class and order llex- 
andria Monogynia, and natural order liromcUa. Is considered a native of South 
America, although it is found indigenous in several parts of Africa in great abund- 
ance. Gonfalo Hernandez de Oviedo is the first person to whom we are indebted 
for any account of the Pine. He was born in 1178, at Madrid; and in 1513, departed 
for America, \N here he was appointed governor of St. Domingo. In that year he 
printed his "Universal History of India," which was printed at Seville, and in 
which he makes mention of three kinds of pine-apples which were known in 
America under the names of Ytnjama, liotiiania, and Yai/ngtta, but which were 
designated by the Spaniards under the general appellation o( Tinas. At this period, 
frecjucnt attempts were made to send the fruit in an unripe state to Spain, but they 
always became rotten during the voyage; afterwards it was attempted to transport 
the tops or crowns to Spain, but these also were destroyed during the passage. 

In the voar 1541, Gerommo Benzono, an Italian, repaired to Mexico, where he 
resided until 1555, and on his return he wrote the History of the New Worid, 
which was printed in Venice in 15G8. In this work he passes a high eulogium on 
the pine, and declares it to be the " finest fruit on this good earth of God." 

Andre Thcvet, a Franciscan Monk, who resided in Brazil in 1555-56, has 
transmitted us a description of the Ananas utider the name o( yanas. At that time 
the art of preserving them in sugar was well known. 

In 1557, Jean de Lcry, who went out as a priest to a colony of Huguenots in 
Brazil, makes freciucnt mention of the .Ananas, and in the inflated style of those 
early times, he describes that to be the fruit on which the gods luxuriate, and which 
ought only to be cut by the hand of a Venus. 

In the IGth century, Franc. Hernandez, who undertook a most expensive journey 
to Mexico at the charge of Fliilip II., at the same time that Acosta was hi 
America, has furnished us with some good drawings of the Ananas, to which, how- 
ever, he gives the name of Matzolli, or Tinea Indica. 

Linnaeus gives New Spain and Surinam as the native habitat of the pine ; and 
Acosta says, that it was first sent from Santa Cruz, in Brazil, into the West, and after- 
wards into the East Indies. It was introduced into Europe from the West Indies 
by Le Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the seventeenth century. From 
Lcyden it came into England, and is said to have been first cultivated here by Sir M. 
Decker, of Richmond; and next, by John Blackburn, Esq., in Lancashire. Accord- 
ing to the Ilorius Kcwensis, it was introduced here as a botanical plant as early as 
1690 by Bentick. It was introduced into Scotland before 1732, as Justice gi res a 
plan of a stove erected by himself, in which the pine fruited for the first time in that 
country, in his garden, near Edinburgh. It is now so generally cultivated, that few 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



503 



gardens are considered as complete without several departments for the cultivation of 
this king of fruits." 

In the West India Llands there are many varieties of this fruit, as might be 
expected where it grows spontaneously from seed. In this country many varietiea 
have originated from seeds, some so early as the days of Miller. Speachly raided 
above seventy varieties in 1768, from seeds sent from the West Indies. It has been 
observed as a rather singular circumstance, that those fruits have produced seeds 
most freely that were in blossom in August, and ripened in December. 

Like most other fruits of admired quality, there are naany varieties in cultivation. 

In the pine stoves of Mr. Gunter, of Earl's Court, Kensington, there are culti- 
vated above thirty sorts. The nursery catalogues seldom enumerate the number 
of varieties of this fruit. The catalogue of the Horticultural Society enumerates 95 
sorts, which is by far the most lengthened list of names ever published. The fol- 
lowing list includes all that are in general cultivation at this time. 

1. The Queen, or Old Queen, to distinguish it from the next. — Fruit oval; color 
golden; size middling, rather large; generally under good management, attains 
the weight of from three to four pounds, sometimes more. Is the hardiest pine we 
have, and comes to its greatest perfection in much less time, and with much less 
trouble than any other ; has been brought to perfection in the short period of fifteen 
or eighteen months. It is more certain of showing fruit while young, and at a 
proper season, than any other. 

2. Ripley's New Queen. — Is considered as a sub-variety of the last; is a more 
elegant fruit, and also fruits in an equally short time. It is more generally culti- 
vated now than any other. We have chosen this pine for our figure, as it is the most 
useful sort for general purposes in cultivation ; fruiting in the short space of fifteen 
or eighteen months, and possessing the merits of a handsome form, good size, and 
high flavor, and capable, with the last mentioned, of being cultivated in perfection 
upon beds of fermented dung or leaves in frames, with as little difficulty, and little 
extra expence, to that required to grow early cucumbers. 

3. Globe, Russian Globe. — Another sub-variety of the Queen. It has been as- 
certained, that this sort was sent by Messrs. Loddige, of the Hackney Nurseries, to 
Russia, above thirty years ago, and has been lately re-introduced from that country, 
by the latter name. 

4. Silver-Striped Queen. — Plant elegant in appearance, being striped in the 
leaves with white, yellow, and red ; is rather a shy bearer ; and, therefore, not 
often cultivated. This is not the only variegated or striped leaved pine met with in 
collections ; there are several others, but their merits are not sufficient to recommci:d 
them to general cultivation. 

5. King Pine, or Shining Green. — The leaves are of a grass green ; color glossy ; 
the pulp hard and stringy ; the flavor good when fully ripe ; not generally cultivated. 

6. Prickly Striped Su(;ar-loaf.— P'ruit cone-shaped, or pyramidal; color 
golden when ripe ; leaves striped with black, or dark purple lines. 

7. Brown Sugar-loaf, or Pyrnmidal. — Fruit cone-shaped (thence the name) ; 
color dark, till it ripens, when it becomes yellow ; flesh very yellow; leaves brownish. 

8. Smooth Striped Sugar-loaf.— Similar to the prickly striped sugar-loaf, but 
without prickles on the leaves. 

9. Wklbeck Seedling.— Fruit small, generally broader at the head, than at the 
base; color pale, or sulphur; pips very flat; flesh white and tender; flavor rich, 
with less acidity than is found in most other pines. 

10. Havannah.— Color dark till it ripens ; tankard shaped. 

11. St. Vincent's Pine, or Green.— Fruit middle sized, and pyramidal; when 
ripe, of an olive hue. This is rather a rare variety, not often met with in cultivation. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENEH. 



13. MONTSERRAT. — Fruit middle sized, and tun-shaped ; pips larger and flatter 
tliaa in other pines ; leaves of a dark brown, inclining to purple in the inside. 

13. Black Jamaica. — Fruit large; and the leaves and habit of the planta re- 
sembling the following one. 

14. Black Antigua. — Fruit shaped like the frustum o*" a pyramid; pips large, 
often an inch in diameter; size large, attaining the weight of from three to four 
pounds ; color dark till it ripens ; very juicy, and high flavored ; leaves of a brownish 
tinge, and drooping at their extremities, with strong prickles thinly scattered upon 
the edges of the leaves. 

15. Providence, or New Prwickncc. — Of this there arc two varieties, the white 
and green. Fruit much larger than any that are cultivated in this country ; shape 
pyramidal ; color at first brownish, but when ripe of a pale yellow ; flesh yellow and 
juicy. Tliis is a valuable fruit, but requires generally three years, and often four, to 
bring it to maturity. 

16. Old Providence. — A very different and inferior fruit, originally from one 
of the Bermuda islands of that name ; not generally cultivated. 

17. Envell. — An excellent pine ; attains a large size ; and is of good flavor. 

18. Blood Red. — Fruit equal in bulk at both ends; pips of moderate size ; color 
brick red ; flesh white and opaque ; flavor inferior to most others, and is cultivated 
more for curiosity than any real merit ; leaves of a changeable hue ; appearanca 
rather sickly than otherwise. 



S T R A A\ B E 11 R I E S. 



Strawberry, Fragaria, Linn^us, — belongs to the class and order Jcotandria 

Polifgt/tiid, and ranks in the natural order Rusmrer. 

Botanists have disagreed, whether the several sorts of cultivated strawberries, are 
re. illy distinct species of the genus Fragaria, or only varieties of one or two species. 
The (Jrnndijiora, or pine; the Virginiana^ or common scarlet; and the Chiloeruh, 
or C/iili, arc supposed by Knight, to be varieties of one species only, as they may 
be all made to breed together indiscriminately. They are natives of the greater 
part of Kurope, particularly the North, and are found in the temperate regions of 
America. The fruit is held in high estimation, and is recommended to people of 
gouty, and rheumatic habits. F*aticnts aiflicted with stone, have found much relief 
from eating them largely ; and it is supposed by some, that the name Fragaria, is 
derived from (Frnngans), to break, as they are of effioocy in dissolving or breaking 
the stone ; others dciive the name from the fragrance of the fruit ; and the English 
name of strawberry, fi-om the practice of laying straw between the rows, to keep the 
fruit clean. Their juice dissolves the tartar of the teeth, and promotes perspiration. 

They have been long cultivated in this country. The wood-strawberry must have 
attracted the attention of our ancestors at an early period. Their varieties till of 
late years, were not numerous. They appear to have attracted the notice of the 
Horticultural Society, soon after its formation, and to some of the members of that 
society, we owe not only many of our finest sorts, but also the cultivation of them 
upon good principles. In the lists of the last century, we had not uiore than 12 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



505 



or 14 sorts. In the Horticultural Society's Catalogue, are enumerated 94 ; many of 
them are exceUent fruits, and are only such as are cultivated in their garden. The 
French sorts are not included in tliis list, as many of them are supposed to be the 
same as some of the English ones. Of this list, 44 are scarlets, 7 blacks, 19 pines^ 
7 ChiUs, 7 hautbois, 1 green, and 9 Alpines. 

From this list of strawberries, we would recommend the following, as most de- 
serving of ultivation in gardens. 

SCARLET STRAWBERRIES. 

1. Old Scarlet, or Scarlet, Early Scarlet, Original Scarlet, Virginian, Scarlet 
Vvginian, Orange or Irish Cof the Dutch). 

2. RosEBCRKY, Rose, Aberdeen Seedling, Prolific Pine, Aberdeen, Scotch Scarlet. 
Is believed to have been discovered by accident in the market-gardens of Messrs. John 
and William Cadenhead, near Aberdeen, who, from certain peculiarities noticed in 
it, were induced to propagate it; and in March, 1815, sent packets of young plants 
of it to London for sale. From this stock, the gardens in England, have been sup- 
plied; it had, however, been long before cultivated in the neighbourhood of Aber- 
deen, and (Vom thence spread over many parts of Scotland. It has since been 
ascertained, that this variety was first raised from seed by Robert Davidson, Esq., 
at Aberdeen, and by him given to Messrs. Cadenhead, by whom it was named and 
made public. 

3. Grove End Scarlet, Atkinson's Scarlet. 

4. Hudson's Bay, Hudson's Pine (of the Scotch Gardens), York River Scarlet, 
Hopewood's Scarlet, American Scarlet, Late Scarlet. 

5. Methven Scarlet, Meihvcn Castle, Southampton Scarlet. 

(5. Wilmot's Late Scarlet, Late Virginian, Wilmot' s Seedling, Wilmot's Scarlet, 
Wilmot's New Scarlet, Large Virginian. 
7. Cock's Comb Scarlet. 

The Scarlet, (Fragariu Virginiana,) is a native of America, growing in the 
woods of Virginia The above seven sorts are all good fruits and excellent bearers, 
and art- extremely well calculated for preserving, and are most of them early. 

The Roseberuy, was brought into notice about 1810, and is a good bearer, and 
of humble growth; is well calculated for forcing; its greatest defect is, that the 
leaves are often not sufficiently large or numerous to protect the fruit from the 
scorching sun while swelling, and the fruit lying close to the ground, is apt to get 
dirty, from the earth being washed upon them by rains or waterings. 

The Grove End, originated at Grove End, Paddington, in the garden of 
William Atkinson, Esq., and is earlier than the last, and a much better bearer, 
producing its fruit upon longer foot-stalks, and consequently less liable to be spoiled 
with rain or watering. It is well adapted for forcing, and is both a handsome and 
well flavored fruit. 

The Hudson's Bay, is an esteemed fruit. 

The Methvrn Scarlet, originated with Mr. Thomas Bishop, an intelligent 
gardener, at Methven Castle, in Perthshire, about twelve years ago ; is a good 
bearer; and the fruit of the largest size; not so high-flavored as the other scarlets. 
An excellent preserving strawberry. 

The Wilmot's Latb Scarlet, originated by Wilmot, a market-gardener, at 
Isleworih. 

The Cock's-Comb Scarlet, is a large and showy fruit, 

3 T 



THE PRACTICAL GARDCNER. 



BLACK STRAWBERRIES. 

8. Oi.D Black, Black, Blade Canterbury, Mulberry, Black Beacon, Black Pine, 
Black Turkey, Turkey Pine. 

9. DowNTON, Knight's Seedling, Knight's Strawberry. 

Tl)c Old Black, is a fine strawberry ; a great bearer; and good flavor. 

The UowNTON, is one of our best strawberries. The fruit is large and irregular, 
and often assuming that monstrous appearance, called cock's-comb. The foliage is 
decidedly distinct from that of every other strawberry. 

PINE STRAWBERRIES. 

10. Old Pine, or Carolina Pine, Carolina, Scarlet Pine, Old Scarlet Pin'-, Large 
Carolina, Common Carolina, Carolina Pine, Solid FlesJied, Large Pine, Scarlet 
Fleshed, Black Carolina, Devonshire Scarlet Pine, Miss Gunning's, Varnished, 
Barham Down, North's Seedling, Keio Pine, Regent's Favorite, If'ifidsor Pine, 
f'ock's-Cotnb Pine. 

11. SiKlNAM, Red Chili, Chinese, Red Pine, Sutton's Large, Red Pine-apple, 
Ananis, or Apricot (of the Dutch), Devoiuhire Scarlet, Oldakers New Pine, North's 
Seedling. 

12. Bath Scarlet, Baih, New Bath Scarlet, Austin's, North's Seedlinpr. Golden 
Drop, Liverpool, Devonshire, Imperial Scarlet, Milne's Seedling. 

13. RoLND White Carolina, Globe, Cone, Chili, White Chili, Carolina, White 
Carolina, Large Pale Chili, Large Flesh-colored Chili, Large Blush Pine, White 
Blush, Large White. 

14. Keen's Seedling, Keen's New Seedling, Murphy's Child, Keen's New Pine, 
Keen's Black Pine. 

Keen's Seedling, originated about 1S06, by Mr. Michael Keen, of Islcworth, 
from seeds sown of the large white Chili strawberry. A numerous prog'eny was 
obtained, for the most part white, and by no incaiis wt U-flavorcd. This one in par- 
ticular only was saved, and possesses merits sufficient to induce cultivators to grow 
it extensively, particularly for the market. Fruit round; color very fine, deep 
crimson, which gives it a rich appearance. The seeds project considerably beyond 
tlic pulp, and to a certain degree, defend it from bruises, and thus render it more 
portable than almost any other strawberry. 

15. Keen'.s Imperial, Large Black, Isletcorth Pine, Black Lnperial, Imperial, 
Large Imperial Black, Imperial Pine, Keen's Black, Keen's Large Fruited, Nectarine. 

Of these, the old pine is the best flavored ; all the others are, however, good, 
and deserve cultivation i most of them under good management, attain a great size, 
and are very showy. 

GREEN STRAWBERRIES. 

16. Green, Green Wood, Pine-apple, Green Pine, Caucasian, Powdered Pine, 
Green Alpine. Curious, rather than possessing any particular merit, as to flavor or 
productiveness. 

CHILI STRAWBERRIES. 

J7 TaUF Chili. Patugonian, GreenweU's French, GrecnweU's New Giant, Green^ 
Hjei* 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



507 



18. Scarlet Chili. 

19. Lakol Blush Chili. 

20. Wilmot's Sl'PERb. — This showy fruit originated a few years ago with Mr. 
VVihnot, a respectable fruit-grower for the London markets. It is one of the largest 
and most splendid of the strawberry family ; but far inferior to some of the smaller 
ones in flavor. Our drawing was taken by Mr. Hart, in the Nursery Garden of 
Mr. Lee, of Hammersmith. All the varieties of Chili strawberries are large, and 
abundant bearers. The last of them is an admired fruit. 

ALPINE AND WOOD STRAWBERRIES. 

2L American Alpine. 

22. PucLiric Alpine. 

23. White Alpine. 

21. Red Alpine, or Scarlet Alpine. 
25. Red Wuod, or Comm.n Dutch. 

2G. White Wood, or White Dutch. All the varieties of Alpines are good ; the 
kit four soits arc well known, and deserve a place in every garden. The first and 
second vuiietics are excellent, but as yet less generally known. Most of them will 
produce fine fruit from seeds of the same year's sowing, by which means they come 
into bearing late in the season, when all other strawberries are over. 

HAUTBOIS STRAWBERRIES. 
27. Black Hadtbois, or Neuy Hauthois. 

2S. Common Hautbois, or Hauthois, Old Hauthois, Original Hauthois, Musky, 
DUrcious Hauthois. 

29. Prolific, or Conical Hauthois, Spring Grove, Sir Jos. Banks's, Douhlc Bearinr: 
Musk, Regent's, Hermaphrodite, Hudso7i's Bay, Dwai-f, Saeonihe. 

30. Large Flat Hautbois, Bath, Weymouth, Formosa, White, Salter's, Louder's. 
All the varieties of hautbois are esteemed for their fine musky flavor, and such 

varieties as become dark, almost approaching to black when ripe, are the highest in 
flavor. 



G O O S E IJ E \\ R I ]• S. 



Gooseberry.— 7;/&ej Grossularia, et U. Uva-crispa, ct Rihes Cynoshatl, Linnccus, 
—belong to the class and ord^cx Pentandria Mono>:yma, and rank under the natural 
order Cacti. It is not, however, certain to which of these, the gooseberry of the 
gardens is to be referred. Is a native of many parts of Europe, generally growing 
in liiick jingly places. It is sufficiently naturalized, if not really indigenous to 
Britain, to be admitted into all our native Floras. It is here generally found upon 
old walls, and always near the habitations of man. The fruit was formerly in little 
Chlcem ; still it is prolwhle, that it was one of the first cultivated fruits in Britain. 
It has been, by cultivation, ir»:proved so much, tliat it bears, in a cultivated state.. 



508 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



little of the appearance of the original. In no country in the world is this fnnt 
brought to such perfection as in England, and in no part of England so much as in 
Lancashire ; the temperate and rather humid air of that county being favorable to 
it, In the south of Europe it is scarcely known in cultivation, although a native 
of Piedmont In France it is neglected and despised. In the more temperate and 
humid air of Holland and Germany, it is cultivated with considerable success ; and 
it is probable, that in the temperate parts of Poland, Russia, Denmark, and Sweden, 
that it might be grown in tolerable perfection. Next to the apple and pear, it is the 
most useful fruit we have ; as from its hardy and compact habit, few that have the 
luxury of a garden, of the smallest size, hesitate to adopt its cultivation ; and its 
usual productiveness warrants its introduction into every garden. It is one of those 
few fruits which the cottager and artisan can cultivate to perfection, and its uses in 
domestic economy are so numerous, as to form a part of the food of a large portion 
of the public for some weeks in its unripe state ; and when in maturity, it is a whole- 
some and pleasant refreshing fruit to every class of society. So much is this fruit 
esteemed in this counn-y, that means have been devised of preserving it throughout 
the year, both in its ripe and unripe state. The provincial names by which this 
fruit is known, are various. In the north of England it is called feaberry, or fever 
berry; in Norfolk, fa pes ; and in some places it is called carberry. The sorts o 
gooseberries are now very numerous ; for the last thirty years they have increased 
very much. This fruit is first mentioned in 1573, by Turner, in his Herbal ; by 
Parkinson, in Charles the First's time, who enumerates eight varieties. Rea men- 
lions several; and Philip Miller says that there are many varieties. The catalogues 
of the nurseries contain from 80 to 100 names, and the Lancashire growers above 
300 varieties. Forsyth mentions, as being common, 10 sorts, and that there were 
43 new Lancashire sorts in his time. The catalogue of the Horticultural Society 
enumerates 185. The following may be considered the best for garden cultivation, 
where flavor is an object. Many of them arc known by the title of Old English 
Gooseberries. 



White. 


Red. 


Green. 


Yellow. 


Champagne 


Champagne 


Champagne 


Amber 


Chrystal 


Chrystal 


Chisel 


Champagne 


Early 


Early Rough 


Early 


Golden Ball 


Large Early 


Ironmonger 


Early Hairy 


(i olden Drop 


Mountain of Snow 


Little Rtd-hairy 


Gage 


Hairy Amber 


Walnut 


Raspberry 


Walnut 


Large. 


Fig 


Rougli Red 






Snow. 


New Ditto 
Small Ditto 







Small Dark Ditto 
Walnut 
Warrington 
Wilmot's Early 
Early Black. 

Among these, Wilmot's Early Red deserves to hold a place in every garden. It 
was raised by Mr. Wilmot, market-gardener, at Isleworth, in 1804, and has been 
culti.dted by him ever since. It is the earliest gooseberry we know, being ripe in 
June ; and for culinary purposes in May is preferable to all others. We may add to 
Its earliness, tliat it is both a great bearer, and high-flavored fruit. 

The W^ARRiNGTON, or Manchester Red, which is an improved variety of the 
old Ironmonger, has long been esteemed the best dessert fruit ; and the bushel 
assume a perpendicular direction of growth, which occupies little space. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



509 



The Red Walnut, is considered best for preserving whole, or drying. 
To the above list, we will add — 

White. Red. Green. Yellow. 

Royal George Nutmeg Gascoigne Upright 

Orleans. Captain Goliah Honeycomb 

Admirable. Globe. Sulphur 

Conqueror 
Golden Knap. 

Of these, the Green Gascoigne is much esteemed as the highest flavored of all 
the greens, and an abundant bearer. 
The Honeycomb is the best-flavored yellow. 



CURRANTS. 



Red Currant. — Ribes Ruhrum, Lirmaus, — belongs to the class and order Pen^ 
tandria Monogynia, and ranks in the natural order Cacti. 

Is a native of many parts of Europe, and found wild in several parts of Britain ; 
and, Hke the gooseberry, never far from the habitations of man. Tt is very pro- 
bable that it has been originally imported into this country, but by whom, or when, 
there is no certain account. It does not appear that the Romans, who introduced 
many of our now common fruits, did us this service, for neither they nor the 
Greeks seem to have been acquainted with it. In Italy, and over most part of the 
south of Europe, they have not, even to this day, any appropriate name for it. 
From their old French and Dutch names, they appear to have been strangers im- 
ported ever, into those countries ; and our name of currant is evidently from the great 
likeness of the fruit to that of the Uva Coritithiaca, the small grape of Zante, or the 
currants of the grocers. They have, however, been long cultivated in our gardens, 
and have sported into several varieties. They are an extremely useful fruit, either 
for the table or for culinary purposes; and while foreign wines were so dear during 
the late war, they were made into excellent wines. Their medical i>roperties are 
considerable, and their fruit is esteemed wholesome and refreshing. 

There are several varieties differing in color, size, S:c. the principal of which are — 

Red Curt an White Currants. 

Comniori Red Common White 

Large Red White Dutch 

Large Bunciied Red Pearl White 

Large Dutch Re 1 White Chrystal 

Dutch Red Large New White Dulcli, 

Striped-leaved ) 

. , , , S- curious. 
Varicgatcd-leaved ^ 

Wilmot's Pale Red 

Champagne. 

Of these, the Dutch reds and whites, common red and white, and Champagne, are 
most worth cultivating. The Horticultural Society's catalogue enumerates 24 va- 
rieties of red and white currants, from which part of the above list is taken. 



Ti'iE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Black Currants, Ribcs Nigrum. — Ranks in the same natural and artificial 
orders with the last. Is a native of the nortli of Europe, abounds in the woods in 
tlie north of Russia and sub-alpine regions of Siberia, where both the branches and 
fruit are large. It is probably an original native of this country; at all ever.': it is 
found in situations more remote from the dwellings of man than either i... :?d 
currant or gooseberry. In Russia they make a palatable wine from the juice of .:. i 
fruit sweetened with honey, and they also put them into brandy, as we do cherr^^:. 
The leaves of the plant are a better substitute for green tea than any of the noxious 
ingredients usually used to adulterate that article. 

The varieties of this fiuit are not numerous, neither do we suppose that they are 
likely to be so. In the catalogue of the Horticultural Society are enumerated five 
varieties, probably some of them may be the same. They are, the 

Wild Rlack Currant. — Cassis of the French 

lUack Grape. — Ogden's Black Grape 

Black Naples 

Common Black, and 

Russian Green. 
The common black is the only one generally cultivated. 

The kinds cultivated in France apjitar to be the ?ame as those above, the French 
names being merely traii-latioiis of those used in this country 



RASPBERRIES. 



Ri ni?s, Iditus, Linnaus, — belongs to the class and order Icosandria Polygamia, 
and ranks in the natural order of Itosacecr, 

Is a native of Britain, and often found in woods rather moist, and almost always 
congregated or growing in masses together. Raspberries are recommended for 
gouty or rheumatic complaints. The fruit is wholesome, and the syrup dissolves 
the tartar of the teeth, and does not undergo acetous fennentation in the stomach. 

The varieties are more numerous than has hithcn.0 been suppo ed. They have 
not been generally distinguished by gardeners, who, it would appear, have paid less 
attention to ihcm than to most other fruits. As is the case with the black currants, 
the French sorts appear to be nearly the sanjc as ours, but they do not possess so 
many varieties. 

Our lists of this fruit have not, till lately, excelled 10 or 12 varieties ; in the 
Catalogue of the Horticultural Society they enumerate 23, some of which possess 
excellent properties: of these the .\nt\verps, Canes, and a few others arc the most 
generally cultivated. 

Antwerps. Ca.nes. 
Double-bearing Yellow. Comnion Red, Old Red, Wild Red. 

Late Bearing, KucvctCs Antwerp. Rough. 
Red, or Barley. Smooth. 
Yellow, or White Antwerp. Red. 

Brentford. 

Douhle -hearing, 

Twice, or Double-bearing, Red Double -bearing, Siberian, or Perpetual Bearing 
Williams' Double-bearing Red, or Vitiuaston. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



511 



Reds. 
Woi)dward'3 Globe. 
Wilniol's Early. 
Malta. 

Taylor's Paragon, or 
Scurlt t Parafion. 



White. 
Old White. 



Various. 
Cornish. 
Lord Exmouth. 
Prolific Early. 
Superb. 

Spring Grove. 
Barnet. 



Cornwall's Prolific, Cmnwairs Seedling. — Cornivall's Red, and Large Red, 
are supposed varieties of the Barnet. 

Tlie twice-bearing ripens in July its first crop, and its second in October ; but 
those o( the last crop, unless in very fine autumns, seldom have much flavor. 



MULBERRY. 



Mi LncKRY, M(/rus Nigra, — belongs to the class and order Moncrcia Tetrandria, 
and ranks in the natural order Urticecc. 

The common black mulberry is the only one cultivated in the garden as a fruit- 
tree ; but the fruits of some of the other species, especially Moms yllbUf are suffici- 
ently good to merit a place in a fruit garden of the first rank. The black mulberry 
is, like most of our best fruits, a native of Persia, and like them have been intro- 
duced into Europe by the Romans. From the venerable specimens of this tree 
that are to met with in the neighbourhood of old mansions and reUgious ruins, we 
may infer that it was early introduced into this country, but at what time, or in 
what manner, we have no certain record. James the First attempted to establish a 
silk manufactory in this country, and it is conjectured that many of the old trees met 
with in the neighbourhood of London were planted by that monarch. That they 
were planted, however, by the monks, long before that period, is very certain. Tusser 
and Gerrard both mention them in the sixteenth century, as being then much culti- 
vated. The fruit is very wholesome, and, like a few other fruits, do not undergo the 
acetous fermentation in the stomach ; but it is not universally esteemed, probably 
owing to its being seldom produced in perfection. They are sometimes planted upon 
walls, in which case, they produce great quantities of fruit, and extend their 
branches to an amazing distance. But when situations are favorable, they form an 
ornamental tree upon the lawn, and afford very good crops of fruit. One or two 
trees will afford plenty of fruit for an ordinary family, and may be procured in the 
nurseries of a size sufficient to produce fruit the year after planting. This fruit 
has been found by Mr. Knight to be much improved by being cultivated in pots 
under glass, and produces crops more abundantly under such circumstances than any 
other tree with which he is acquainted. Its blossoms set equally well in different 
degrees of temperature, and the same degree of heat that will ripen the earlier 
varieties of grapes in the end of July, will afford perfectly ripe nmlberries early in 
June. Dwarf-trees of this species of fruit may be readily obtained (for this purpose) 
by enarching upon a young stock the bearing branch of an old tree. Plants thus 
prepared have yielded above twenty dozen of mulberries in one season. The plants 
growing ;n ordinary-sized pots, and not three feet high. 



512 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



CRANBERRIES. 



Cranberry, Oxycoccus Pahutrus, and the American species Oxycocaa Macro- 
rarpus, — belong to the class and order Octandria Monogynia, and rank in the 
natural order Erireer. The former is a native of peat-bogs in many parts of the north 
of England and Scotland, and the latter is a native of similar places in North America. 
It was brought into notice by the late Sir Joseph Banks, about 1812, and cultivated 
by him in his garden at Spring Grove. The fonner species is now also occasionally 
cultivated in our gardens; and is collected from its natural place of growth in vast 
qjiantities. In the north of Europe, great quantities of them are yearly preserved in 
bottles, and sent to Stockholm, whence they are exported to different parts of the 
world. A great portion of them is annually brought to the London markeL 



NUTS. 



Of nuts there are many names to be met with in the nursery catalogues; but 
those in the following hst are by far the must useful, and are in very general cul- 
tivation : — 

WALNUTS. 

Tender-shelled Round Early Oval 

Thick-shelled Double Large French. 

Highflyer of Thctford. 
Of these the Highflyer of Thetford and Tender-shelled are considered the be«t» 

CHESTNUT. 

Of this tree, as with all others originated by seeds, several varieties exist ; some 
ripening a few days earlier than others, and some attaining a larger size than others. 
But of those none have been fixed upon by cultivators, or propagated for their 
respective merits. 

FILBERT. 

Spanish or Barcelona Large Long Nut 

Red-kerncUcd Filbert Common Hazel Nut 

White-kermllcd Do. Red-kcrnelled Do. 

Great Cob-nut Cossford 
Frizzled. Constantinople Nut. 

Of these the common and red-kemelled hazel nut are well known, and often met 
with in great abundance in woods. The Cossford and Frizzled are noticed in the 
Hort Trans, and recommended as superior sorts. The Constantinople nut is not in 
very general cultivation, but has considerable merit as well as all the others. 



Fruits Neglected, or not in General Cultivation. 
To this we may refer the Cloudberry, Rubus Chamamorus ; Common Bramble, 
Ruhus FruHcosus ; Tree Currant, Ribes Spicatum ; Dwarf, or Artie Bramble, Rubtu 
Articxis; Dewberry, Rubus Casius ; Snowberry, Gaultheria Serpyllifolia, and i«any 
of the genua Faccinium, which possess great merit ; and in sufficiently cold and 
heathy situations would amply repay the expense of oultivation. 



513 

FRUIT GARDEN. 



For the following select lists of fruits for general purposes, and which may be con- 
sidered a sufficient variety, under all reasonable circumstances, for a garden of the 
first class, we are indebted to a friend of the highest professional attainments, who has 
cultivated them, amongst many others, for several years. We prefer thus giving a 
list of select fruits actually cultivated in one garden, to a selection made in any other 
way ; and as we have witnessed the excellence of these productions, we have 
the more confidence in recommending them. The list is short, compared with what 
many may expect ; but such is the case, few tables in the kingdom are supplied with 
a dessert more elegant and profuse than that of the opulent proprietor from whose 
garden these hsts are taken. This shows, by example, what may be done by a judi- 
cious selection of a moderate number of sorts of fruits in the first instance, and a 
proper management of them afterwards. 



APPLES. 



Alexander 

Blenheim Pippin 
•Brandsley Pippin 

White Calvelle 

Dutch CodUn 

Keswick Codlin 
♦Court of Wick Pippin 
♦Scarlet Croftoa 
♦Downton Pippin 

French Crab 

Late Fulwood 
♦Golden Pippin 
♦Russet Golden Pippin 

Franklin's Pippin 

Hall Door 

Hawthorn Dean, WTiite 



Lemon Pippin 
♦Lucomb's Pine-apple 

Margin 
♦Scarlet Nonpareil 
♦Ross's Nonpareil 
♦Russet Nonpareil 
♦Green Nonpareil 
Scarlet Nonesuch 
Northern Greening 
Yorkshire Greening 
Loan's Pearmain 
♦Padley's Pippin 
Golden Reinette 
Golden Russet 
Ribston Pippin. 



Those marked (♦) are dessert apples ; although many of the others are also fit for 
that purpose. 

PEARS. 



D'Auch 

Gansell's Bergamot 
Autumn Bergamot 
Brown Beurre 
Red Beurro 
Beurro Du Val 
Chaumontel 
Colmar 



Coe's Golden Drop 
Green Gage 
Imperatrice 

Early Orleans (WilmoCs) 
Orleans 



Passe Colmar 
Crassane 
Jargonelle 
Marie Louise 
Napoleon 
St. Germain 
Bishop's Thumb 
Swan's Egg. 

PLUMS. 

Magnum Bonum, White 
Precoce de Tours 
Sharp's Emperor 
Goliath 

Wine Sour (for preserving). 
3 c 



511 



THE PRACTICAL GARDEN£!U 



Breda 
Briis»ells 
Moor Park 



May Duke 
L.ite Diikc 
Black Heart 
Black Tartarian 



Black Ischia 
Brown Ischia 
^Vhite Genoa 



Scarlet Admirable 
Double Swalsh 
Early Vineyard 
Red Magdalen 
Noblesse 

French Mignonne 



Dutilly's 
New Scarlet 
Roman 

Voilette H alive 



Black Antigua 
Brown Antigua 
Enville 

Black Jamaica 



•Alicant 

Black Prince 

• Chasselas 
Black Frontignac 
Grizzly Frontignac 
White Frontignac 

•Muscat of Alexandria 
Black Gibraltar 
Black Hamburg 



APRICOTS. 

Orange 
Turkey. 

CHERRIES. 

Bigarreau 
Harrison's Heart 
White Heart 
MorcUa. 

FIGS. 

Lee's Perpetual 
Brown Turkey 
White Naples. 

PEACHES. 

Vanguard 

Royal George (smooth leaved) 
Purple native (late) 
Crosse Mignonne 
Millctt's Mignonne 
Buckingham Mignonne. 

NECTARINES. 

Vermash 
Murray's 
Newington 
New White. 

PINE-APPLES. 

Otaheite (Jnson's) 
White Providence 
Queen. 

VINES. 

•Black Morocco 
•Black Muscadcl 

Royal Muscadine 

White Nice 
•West's St. Peter's (Oldacre's) 

Dutch (or SittweU's) Sweet-water 

Sweet-water ( common ) 
•Black Damascus 

Frontignac Musquee. 



Those marked (•) are late grapes, and consequently require heat; are, therefore, 
fit for pine stoves, or to be cultivate ! in houses by themselves. 



515 



THE 

FORCING GARDEN. 



INTRODUCTION. 



To accelerate, as well as to cultivate by artificial means, 
those fruits which are natives of more temperate or tropical 
climates, " constitutes one of the principal branches of modern 
gardening : " hence it becomes necessary to form climates suit- 
able for their growth, and these climates are formed in those 
erections generally denominated hot or forcing-houses. In 
regard to the period when the acceleration of fruits was first 
practised in this country, we have no certain information. 
Some suppose that the Romans hastened the ripening of grapes 
in this country under talc cases, similar to the modes used by 
them in Italy ; while, on the other hand, it is the opinion of 
others, that no attempt had been made to force the ripening of 
fruit before the sixteenth century. 

Parkinson and Gerarde both describe the practice of grow- 
ing cucumbers and melons, by removing them into sheds or ^ 
rooms at night, and exposing them in fine weather during the 
day. This seems to have been the most primitive mode, having 
been practised in Italy in the time of Tiberius, and probably 
was succeeded by merely covering with glass-cases, being in 
itself an improvement on the talc cases used by the Romans, as 
described by Seneca and Pliny. The next step towards im- 
provement, was the use of fermenting vegetable matter in the 
formation of hot-beds, and afterwards of hot-walls, and lastly 
the construction of hot-houses, which took their rise about 
the end of the seventeenth century, and which are now arrived 
at that degree of excellence, that is not likely to be surpassed. 
In the time of Charles the First, melons were cultivated on 



516 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



beds of hot dung, without any other covering than occasionally 
a little straw thrown over them ; and, according to Switzer 
and Lord Bacon, this practice had been in use for an unknown 
length of time. 

In the time of Charles the Second, hot-houses, according 
to Daincs Barrington, were erected, and all the fruits which 
we have at this day were cultivated, the pine only excepted, 
which was introduced in 1690. Switzer, in the beginning of 
the eighteenth century, not only erected hot walls, but also 
forcing-houses ; the first plans of which, together with direc- 
tions for their management, he published in 1717, in his I Vuit 
Gardener. Little progress was, however, made in this branch 
of gardening till towards the middle of the eighteenth century, 
and since that time, the erection of hot-houses has rapidly 
increased, and their management upon scientific principles has 
kept pace with their increase ; for which reason a garden is 
now considered as incomplete without several of those struc- 
tures. 

An invention so im})ortant as that of the erection of hot- 
houses, naturally led to a variety of opinions regarding their 
construction, and various are the ideas still entertained on this 
subject. 

The principal points on which hot-house builders disagree 
are ; first, the materials of which they should be formed ; se- 
condly, the form of roofs best calculated for the admission of 
the rays of heat and light ; and third! ij, the way by which 
they should be heated. 

These are the principal points on which experimental men 
differ, and each advocate has supported his theory with much 
philosophical reasoning. Houses have been built on a variety 
of principles, for the purpose of proving by experience their 
merits or defects. 

These differences, although they appear specious, and afford 
a vast field for controversy, are considered by most practical 
gardeners as of far less importance to the end in view, than is 
willingly allowed by their several advocates; as much more 
depends on the proper formation of borders, and the general 
subsequent management, than on the simple construction of 
the house, ^^'e find able gardeners producing good crops of 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



517 



fruit in all kinds of houses, while bad ones are less fortunate ; 
and therefore they may as well lay the blame on the construct- 
ion of the house, as on their own inattention and want of 
skill. Nevertheless, it is allowed, that many houses are faulty, 
but if those be partially successful, the success must neces- 
I sarily be greater, were they to be constructed on a more ap- 
' proved principle. However, where there is a sufficient com- 
mand of fire-heat, as well as a sufficient quantity of light and 
air, whatever the form of the house may be, if the borders be 
properly prepared, and the management good, the success will 
entirely depend upon the experience and attention of the gar- 
dener. 

SITUATION. 

" It is a matter of importance," as Nicol very justly ob- 
serves, " that every hot-house should be placed, if not in a 
sheltered situation, at least in a dry one, or in one that is 
capable of being rendered so by draining. The aspect of all 
forcing-houses should be as near to the meridian as possible, 
though the deviation of an hour to the east or to the west is 
not of much importance. Some insist that they should front 
the east, and others that they should front to the west of 
south, because some are advocates for the morning, and others 
for the afternoon sun." If they stand within a few points of 
south, it is matter of little consequence whether that inclina- 
tion be to the west or east; it is, however, otherwise with 
houses constructed for the cultivation of plants only. 

As the subject ot plant-houses will be fully considered in 
the latter part of this work, we will confine ourselves at pre- 
sent to those houses which are intended for the cultivation of 
fruits ; and, in the first place, we must observe that, for that 
purpose, the houses should front the south, and be completely 
sheltered from the effects of winds, but still not so as to be 
shaded by trees. Low and damp situations are, of all others, 
the least calculated for such structures, and the generally 
adopted site for them is in the kitchen-garden ; although, in 
pome instances, the forcing structures, when upon an exten- 
sive scale, as in the royal gardens at Kensington, are In an 



518 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



enclosure by themselves, and not unfrequently are placed in 
the flower or pleasure-garden, as at Sommerly, the seat of 
II. Baring, Esq., M. P., in which latter instance, the effect is 
good. However, it must be admitted, that the most conve- 
nient situation for them is the kitchen-garden, as the opera- 
tions carried on, are in both more intimately connected. Such 
structures are generally placed against the garden-walls in a 
continued range, and are usually built on the ground-level of 
the garden. Some instances occur, where the houses are scat- 
tered about in different parts of the garden ; but to this it has 
been objected, that they are much less conveniently attended 
to, and })roducc an appearance of confusion, by breaking in 
upon the regular quarters, and presenting tlieir back-walls, 
which, however v,ell covered they may be, have no inviting 
appearance. Houses in short ranges are more convenient for 
the operators in attending to them, and when seen from a 
proper point on entering the garden, produce a good effect. 
Where the soil is damp, there can be no objection to have 
the floor-level of the hot-houses elevated above the garden- 
level, by which the roots of the trees will be completely se- 
cured from under-damp, and, if not too much elevated, the 
houses will have a bolder effect. In long continued ranges, 
we have found it extremely inconvenient when they are closely 
connected, and therefore we prefer the mode exemplified by 
that eminent architect, \\'. Atkinson, Esq. in many flrst-rate 
gardens, by leaving a convenient space between each division 
or raufje. 



MATERIALS OF WHICH HOT-HOUSES SHOULD BE FORMED. 

About the beginning of the present century, in consequence 
of the high price of timber, various sorts of metallic substances 
were brought into notice as substitutes for wood. The chief 
advantages of metallic houses are stated to be, di/rabintt/, 
elegance, and lightness. The first of which is very doubtful ; 
the second, a matter of taste only, as numerous instances occur 
of hot-houses which are built of wood bein£j as elcirant, and as 
neatly fitted up, as any that have been erected of metal; and the 
third, unimportant, inasmuch as the houses hitherto constructed 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



519 



of wood, if done in a neat and proper manner, have been found 
to admit light sufficient to produce fruit as good as any that 
has hitherto been produced in metalhc ones, without the dan- 
ger attending the attraction of electrical matter, or their con- 
ducting an immoderate degree of heat or cold, either of which 
is extremely injurious to vegetation. A sufficient time has not 
yet elapsed to prove their durability to be more than that of 
good timber, which only should be used in erections exposed 
to the vicissitudes of heat and cold, wet and dry ; but if we 
may judge from metallic matter being used in sky-lights, and 
other open situations, exposed to the same atmosphere, and 
governed by the same laws, we should decide that wooden 
houses, if properly constructed and kept in repair, will last as 
long as metallic ones, if kept equally well. Iron is not in- 
corruptible, and it is much to be questioned, that were it placed 
in the same situation, whether it would remain in a state of 
preservation much longer than many kinds of wood. Nails 
are sometimes found quite decayed in old buildings, while the 
timber, in which they are driven, is almost as fresh as when 
first put up. Lignum vitae, as well as ebony, is so durable, 
that scarcely any traces of decay have been discovered in either. 
Box is very rarely found in a state of decay. It was a com- 
mon opinion in the days of Pliny, that box, ebony, Cyprus, and 
cedar, were indestructible. The great durability of these woods 
arises, no doubt, from their texture, being very heavy and 
close-grained ; water cannot be absorbed by them in any quan- 
tity, they not being sufficiently porous. We have woods in 
another class which are very durable, such as mahogany, 
cedar, yew, teak, acacia, and some species of pines, &c. These 
woods are of an open grain and very porous, but then, they 
contain a quantity of oleaginous or resinous matter, which 
occupies all their cavities, and therefore prevents the insinua- 
tion of any moisture. Pliny, in his Nat. His. lib. 16. c. 40, 
says, that the Temple of Apollo, at Uttica, the timber of which 
vvas Numidian cedar, is said to have stood 1188 years. The 
roof of Westminster Hall is of oak, and has stood undecayed 
during a period of many centuries. 

The horizontal Cyprus, Cupressus horizontalis, a native ot 
the Levant, is said to resist putrefaction, and to last for many 



520 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



centuries. According to Thucydides, the coffins used by the 
Athenians, for their dead heroes, were made of this wood ; as 
also the chests which contained the Egyptian mummies. The 
doors of St. Peter's church, at Rome, were originally made of 
this wood, and after lasting eleven hundred years, they pre- 
sented, at the end of that time, not the least symptom of de- 
cay. They were removed by order of Pope Eugenius the 
Fourth, and gates of brass were substituted in their place. 

The durability of the larch is now well ascertained, and 
when properly seasoned, it is not liable to warp, nor cast, as 
it is technically called ; and, when of a proper age, it might be 
used as a durable timber for hot-house building. Its durability 
was known to the ancients, who describe it as lasting for nearly 
a thousand years. 

Innumerable instances are recorded, and which daily pre- 
sent themselves to our notice, of the durability of deal tim- 
ber; and when that wood is highly charged with oleaginous 
or resinous matter, it is known to last for many years, and 
is well calculated for hot-house building, as having but a slight 
tendency to warp or shrink, however openly it may be ex- 
posed. We are much disposed to believe timber of this de- 
scription to be more durable for hot-house building, than metal 
of any of the sorts which have hitherto been used ; and while 
it is exempt from the charge of being a conductor of excessive 
heat, cold, or electrical matter, it is also not liable to contract- 
ion nor expansion. Rust never atiects it, the droppings of 
which on the foliage of plants is extremely injurious ; neither 
is the expense so great in the first erection, and any accidental 
injury sustained in it can be more readily rectified. The 
capability of good timber to support any reasonable weight 
which is ever likely to be applied to the roofs of hot-houses, is 
such as to warrant, with all safety, the rafters and sashes 
being made sufficiently slender, to admit as much light to the 
plants as is ever required, on any reasonable occasion. It 
has been stated, that if one-third of the sum requisite to keep 
a wooden-house properly painted, be expended on an iron 
roof, no injury would ever be sustained, from the liability of 
that metal to suffer from rust, but this is not the case. The 
disposition of rust to eat its way through paint is so obvious, 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



521 



that we are really surprised, that tlie intelligent gentlenKin, 
who has promulgated the above opinion, has not been practi- 
cally convinced of the fallacy of his argument. It is advised 
by him and by the most strenuous advocates of iron houses, to 
paint them every year, with the view of counteracting the effects 
of rust, and rendering them less powerful conductors of heat ; 
now it is singular, that one-third of the sum will paint a hot- 
house of any given number of superficial feet yearly, while a 
wooden-house of the same surface, requires that operation at 
least only once in two years, and if it should even be performed 
only once in three or four years, little or no injury would ac- 
crue to the timber ; while, during the whole of that time, we 
are free from the ill effects of rust, expansion, contraction, and 
all danger from the conducting powers of iron. 

There is no example of any iron-house having yet stood 
thirty years, but we have seen many that have stood that time, 
which have been built of timber, and, according to all moral 
calculation, are likely to stand much longer. An instance of 
this occurred in our own practice, while at Stratton Park, in a 
vinery, which was built when that property belonged to the 
Bedford family ; it had been long neglected, and not kept in 
the slightest repair, nor probably ever painted from the time it 
was built, till it was taken down, when it became, by pur- 
chase, the property of the late Sir Francis Baring. This 
vinery, however, stood for upwards of thirty years, and was 
by the present proprietor taken down, about ten years ago, to 
make way for a metallic one, which was constructed by one 
of the most eminent metallic hot-house builders in the king- 
dom ; the old sashes and rafters were thrown by as useless, 
and remained for seven or eight years neglected. The rafters 
and such pieces of the building as could be wrought up into 
use, were taken, in consequence of the extreme good quality 
of the timber ; and the sashes, not being so convertible into 
general buildings, were left to perish, as of no use. In 1825, 
some houses were erected for vines, and one of them was 
covered with those identical sashes, which had now been made 
about forty years. These sashes were in so good preservation, 
that any repair was judged uiuiecessary, except for greater 
strength. The corners were secured with plates of iron, to 

3x 



52a 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Strengthen tlic joints, and so liard was the putty, that the glaz- 
iers had much difficulty in cleaning the rabbets out for the 
reception of the new glass. 

This is not a solitary instance of the durability of wooden 
hot-houses, as many others could be adduced. It is, however, 
to be acknowledged, that from the nature of the material, 
and from accidental injuries sustained, at the same time that 
no means are taken to guard them against decay, that parts of 
wooden houses may show symptoms of decay sooner than iron 
ones ; but the nature of the material also admits of their being 
readily repaired, which is not the case with those constructed 
of metallic substances. It does not often happen, but we have 
known an instance of a person, while in the act of repairing 
the roof of a hot-house, falling through one of the sashes, 
which was so much injured as to require it to be taken off and 
repaired, which was done in the course of a day; should such 
a circumstance, however, occur in a house of iron, could the 
injury be so readily rectified? The answer must be decidedly 
in the negative. If the sash so injured be of cast-iron, and the 
accident occur during winter, or while the forcing is going on, 
could it be remedied without its being sent to Biraingham, 
London, or to some part probably equally distant, for the 
purpose of having another cast, to replace it, durir.g which 
time the gardener would be placed in an awkward situation ? 
If the sash were made of copper, wrought iron, or of any 
other metallic matter, the repair to be eliected would require 
infinitely more time and expense than if it were of wood. 

Copper, or other compound metals, in consequence of their 
want of sufficient body in the smaller members of the sashes, 
are liable to yield to a slight pressure ; heavy fiUls of snow 
would produce a bending in them, sufficient, not only to break 
much of the glass, but also to bend them hollow in the middle, 
and, consequently, render them less likely to throv/ off the 
rain, if it do not altogether dismember their joints. 

Metallic mixtures, as iron cased with copper, produce un- 
equal expansion, and also tend to break the glass, in conse- 
quence of a twisting in the bars. Wrought-iron is not so apt 
to be affected by this expansion, but is equally unfit for hot- 
house building, being so liable to rust. 



THE FORCING GARDEN". 



523 



Cast-iron is not so liable to rust as the last, neither is it so 
materially affected by expansion, as to cause any considerable 
breakincc of glass, but then sashes of cast iron are less calcu- 

o to ' 

lated to bear any degree of pressure, and are liable, in con- 
sequence of their extreme brittleness, to break off short upon 
any sudden blow, or pressure being put upon them suddenly ; 
and above all, when once they are broken, they are not rea- 
dily repaired without being recast, and the time lost, and the 
expense of the repairs, form surely a heavy balance against 
them. They cannot either be constructed on so slight a prin- 
ciple as houses of the mixed metals, or of wrought iron, and 
consequently are so heavy, that they will, in the end, hasten 
their own decay. Their weight on steep roofs is not easily sup- 
ported ; and when the ropes by which they are let up and down, 
in the process of giving air, break, which is no uncommon 
circumstance, their ponderous weight in falling shakes the 
whole fabric, and the fragments of some twenty or thirty 
squares of glass, bear evidence of the extent of the disaster. 
This we have frequently experienced, and it must be admitted 
that such accidents occur also in wooden houses, but the con- 
cussion is not so great, and the effect produced is seldom to 
any extent injurious. 

That metallic houses, from a variety of causes, break more 
glass than wooden ones is evident. The light which supplies 
that herculean undertaking, the Colosseum, in the Regent's 
Park, is admitted by two immense sky-lights of metallic con- 
struction : during the few extremely hot days of the summer of 
1827, some hundred squares of glass v/ere daily broken by 
expansion ; of this fact the ingenious and able projector is 
perfectly sensible, and being convinced, not only of the pre- 
vailing fault, but n\so of the attendant expense and inutility, 
has used nothing but wood in the erection of a range of con- 
servatories, green-houses, and stoves, upon a scale and plan 
entirely unprecedented in this country. The public will soon 
be satisfied that houses can be constructed as elegantly and 
lightly, and at a much less expense, of wood, than of any me- 
tallic matter whatever. There are few of the numerous visitors, 
who have seen them, that have not supposed them to be iron, 
until informed of the contrary. 



521 



THE TRACTTCAL GARDENER 



In one conservatory, Mr. Horner has adopted an ingenious 
plan of combinini^ strength and hghtness in the rafters. The 
roof is of an cHiptical form, and the sashes are fixed. The 
rafters are composed of one bar of wrought iron, three quartern 
of an incli thick, and three inches broad ; this bar of iron if 
covered with deal timber half an inch thick, and secured to tlu 
iron bar with neat screw-bolts, so that they have the appear 
ance of being wholly of wood, and their size is consequentb 
only one inch and three-quarters thick, and four inches deep 
which has a very light and neat appearance, while it is suffi- 
ciently strong to carry the weight of the roof. If strength and 
lightness be really indispensable for hot-house rafters, this 
appears to be the princi[)le by which it can be eflected, as by 
being covered with wood, all the conducting powers of heat, 
cold, or electricity are corrected, and the eftbcts of contraction 
or expansion lessened, so as to be attended with no bad conse- 
quence ; and it is probable that rafters so constructed, will be 
more durable than metallic ones, exposed to the action of the 
weather. However, the expense of such rafters is considerably 
more than wooden ones of equally proportionable strength. 

The rafters of the ix?ach-house in the garden of the Horti- 
cultural Society are also strengthened, by having bars of iron 
introduced into them, in a similar way, as are the rafters in the 
conservatory of Mr, Hope, at Deepden; both houses are de- 
signed by William Atkinson, Esq., and in both of them the 
rafters are neat, light, and of suflicient strength to suj)port any 
weight ever likely to be api)licd to them. 

Metallic houses attract electricity, and to guard against this 
evil, it has been reconmiended to cover with thick coats ol 
paint. Most painters consider that paint put on in thick bodies 
defeats the i)urpose for which it is intended, by not adhering 
so closely to the body on which it is placed, as thinner coats 
of the same material, and, instead of protecting the body of 
the material, is constantly peeling off. Putty is also recom- 
mended to be spread over half the bar, to lessen the conduct- 
ing principle ; most glaziers agree that the smaller the quan- 
tity of putty used, the less liable it is to loosen or fall off; and 
this is accounted for upon nearly the same principle, that thin 
coats of paint are better than thick ones. There is certainly 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



525 



no instance within our knowledge of any material injury being 
produced by the eliects of the electric fluid, but that is no 
reason why such should never be the case. Accidents of that 
nature so seldom happen, under ordinary circumstances, that it 
is by no means a matter of surprise that it has not happened 
in the case of metalhc houses, when we consider the compara- 
tive few in number throughout the kingdom. 

Practical gardeners are, and have been, doubtful of the suc- 
cess of such houses. Abercrombie and Speechly in England, 
and Nicol in Scotland, excellent practical and experimental 
gardeners, were decidedly against them, and most others have 
avoided giving their opinion. Mr. Atkinson, who has designed 
and built more hot-houses than probably any other architect 
of the day, is also decidedly against them. Those who have 
adopted them are chiefly amateurs or philosophical gardeners ; 
some few practical men have had the management of them, 
and one or two have built from their own designs. The most 
e-xtensive erections of this sort are now building, under the 
direction of Mr. Forrest, at Sion-house. " The result of his 
success will, probably, tend to set the matter at rest." 

ON THE FORM OF ROOFS, &C. 

The form of hot-houses, till of late years, was generally that 
of a straight front, with sloping roofs, supported in front on a 
parapet wall, sometimes with and sometimes without any upright 
or front sashes, and differing in their angles of elevation, to 
suit the purposes for which they were intended, but, in most 
instances, they were built without any premeditated design 
thereto, or to that effect. Mr. Knight, however, about the 
beginning of this century, revived the theory of Boerhaave, 
Professor of Botany at Leyden, " who exemplified a principle 
which he laid down, for adjusting the slope of the glass of 
hot-houses, so as to admit the greatest number of the sun's 
rays, according to the latitude of the place." 

This was adopted by the celebrated Linnaeus, and afterwards 
enlarged upon by Faccio, Adanson, Miller, Speechly, and 
others. In 1815, Sir George M'Kenzie introduced into no- 
tice the hemispherical form of roof, as being supposed to be 



52G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER 



tlie form best calculated for the admission of the greatest num- 
ber of the sun's rays. And this has been " considered (by 
some) as the ultimatum in regard to the principle and perfec- 
tion of form;" while others, and by far the greater number, 
still prefer the sloping roof, suiting the angle of elevation to 
the purposes for which they are intended, and relying more 
upon good management, than upon nice points of philosophi- 
cal reasoning, as regards the form of the house. Sufficient 
time has not yet elapsed, to prove the superiority of curviHnear 
roofs over those that are straight, as affecting the plants that 
may be placed under them. I.t, therefore,- remains as yet a 
matter of taste only as to which of them has the best effect in 
garden scenery, and as taste is governed by no fixed laws, it is 
not likely to be speedily determined. In houses built expressly 
for the cultivation of exotic flowering plants, " fancy may have 
its full sway ;" and houses for those purposes may be built 
upon principles of taste, with less injurious effects to the in- 
mates ; but in houses built expressly for the purpose of ac- 
celerating or cultivating exotic fruits, the principle of the de- 
sign, as regards architectural beauty or taste, is of much less 
importance than the consideration of the end in view. 

Some few curvilinear houses have been erected in this coun- 
try, but they have chiefly been for the cultivation of flowering 
plants, ^^'hcthcr it be that their expense in the first erection, 
their inconveniency, or the efllect that they produce as a garden 
structure, have operated as a drawback, is not certain, but they 
are not rising much in repute. That their expense in the first 
erection is considerably more than that of houses built upon 
the more common principle cannot be denied, inasmuch as a 
great part of tlie materials, if of wood, is cut to waste, and 
their formation more difficult for the tradesman to execute; 
and above all, if the sashes be made moveable, which should 
be the case with all houses, whether they be ventilated by the 
sashes, or by means of ventilators properly constructed, and 
placed both in the front parapet-wall, and likewise near the 
top of the back one, they are, in that case, incapable of bemg 
made rain-proof. For houses entirely constructed for culti- 
vating flowering plants, they may, with less impropriety, be 
made of fanciful shapes and curvilinear roofs ; but for houses 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



527 



expressly built for utility, they are not to be recommended. 
As they are constructed upon the principle of admitting the 
greatest number of the rays of heat and light, they also admit 
of the greatest portion of cold, particularly in windy weather, 
by allowing it to pass more readily into the house between the 
laps of the glass. Our own experience, in respect to two cur- 
vilineal houses for cultivating tropical plants, justifies us in 
joining to the testimony of others, in stating them to be deci- 
dedly more difficult to keep to a proper temperature, than 
houses with sloping roofs, glazed upon the same principle, and 
of the same dimensions. Indeed, so difficult was it to keep 
the required temperature in the houses alluded to, notwith- 
standing there were two fires constantly kept up, and the 
dimensions of the houses only forty feet long, by eleven wide, 
and one of them only ten feet high, that we were under the 
necessity of covering them with double mats during a great 
part of the winter of 1827. 

The majority of practical gardeners prefer those with straight 
roofs, and are content with the light and heat that they afibrd, 
and if we may judge of their relative merits, by the crops of 
fi'uit produced in both, we see little reason to think that they 
will ever become general. Economy, combined with utility, 
we have always considered as a most important consideration 
in hot-house building, provided that they be so contrived that 
the plants may derive the due advantages of light, air, heat, 
soil, and water, these being the principal agents of vegetable 
life. The merits, therefore, of hot-houses will be judged by the 
perfection with which those indispensable agents are supplied. 

In our opinion, curvilinear houses have no advantage over 
others for tlie production of good fruit ; and, as a mere matter 
of taste, we see no elegance in them that is not to be met with 
in well-constiucted houses with straight or sloping roofs, if 
judiciously arranged, either in ranges or detached. In ranges 
(against walls) curvilinear houses have the appearance of being 
unconnected, even though they may be joined; and, if detached, 
they as much resemble huge bird-cages as houses for tlie 
cultivation of fruits. The most convenient and economical 
form of house seems to be that of a straight front resting 
upon a parai)ct of brick or stone, of a proper width, and pre- 



52S 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



scnting an angle to tlic liorizon suited to tlic purpose for which 
it is intended ; if for late forcing, or pine-stoves, an elevation 
generally of thirty-five degi'ees will answer; hwt if for early 
forcing, the elevation will require to be more upright, to admit 
of the rays of the sun acting sufficiently powerful in the early 
part of the season, when the sun is low in the horizon. 

ON HEATING IIOT-IIOUSES. 

Ilot-houscs arc generally heated by means of combustible 
matters consumed in an oven or furnace, which is generally 
placed behind the house, although sometimes placed in front, 
or at the ends. The heated air, together with the smoke, is 
made to pass into the house enclosed in a flue, which, for the 
most part, stretches along the front part of the house, at some 
little distance from the parapet wall. This distance is greater 
or smaller, according to circumstances, but the flue should 
always be placed as near the front as convenient, that being 
the coldest part of the house. As the heat naturally ascends, 
it is necessary that the first and greater heat should be allowed 
to escape as near the lower part of the house as possible, an 1 
if a sufficient heat be kept up here, it will readily heat the 
higher parts. 

Steam, of late years, has been employed in heating hot- 
houses, but the expense of getting up the apparatus, and of 
keeping it in repair, has prevented it from being brought into 
general use. Upon a small scale, it is not advisable, as the 
expense is much greater than the more original method ot 
heating by moans of brick-built flues. 

In 1792, Mr. Butler, then gardener to the Earl of Derby, 
was amongst the first who tried the application of steam in 
heating a cucumber-house, and it was the first successful at- 
tempt in that improvement. The idea, however, was sug- 
gested a few years previously by a person in Liverpool. Little 
notice was taken of it till ISIG, when it was revived, and 
has since been tried in many places ; in some it still con- 
tinues to be used, and in others it has been abandoned, in con- 
sequence of the expense. Fuel, in most parts of the kingdom, 
is an expensive article, therefore the mode of heating hot- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



liGUses, so as to consume the least possible quantity, is a de- 
sideratum. " Heat is the same material, in whatever manner 
it may be produced, and a given quantity of fuel will produce 
no more heat when burning under a boiler, than when burn- 
ing in a common furnace." 

FLUES. 

Various opinions have been entertained respecting the proper 
size and situations of flues, and the materials of which they 
should be constructed. The most primitive mode of their con- 
struction appears to have been under the surface of the borders, 
like drains, or in the solid walls of the house, and of large (hmen- 
sions. Experience, however, soon proved the error, and we 
have long found them built upon more correct principles. 
Large, broad, and deep flues are used by the Dutch, and have 
been recommended by a wTiter in the Caledonian Horticultural 
Memoirs. Deep and narrow flues are used in Russia, and are 
often met with in this country. Can-flues have been used for 
a long period, but as they are rapidly heated and soon cooled, 
they are only adapted for moderate fires; but, judiciously 
chosen, they may frequently be more suitable and profitable 
than common flues, as for example, where there are only 
slight fires wanted occasion^illy, as in the case of a vinery with 
late grapes, only requiring a slight fire to dry up moisture, or 
repel a slight degree of frost, or where there is a regular sys- 
tem of watching the fires ; in which case, but not otherwise, 
the temperature can be sufficiently regulated. 

Cast-iron flues have been recommended on account of their 
durability, but unless they were bedded in sand or masonry, 
they are liable, in an extreme degree, to the same objections 
as can-flues. Sir George M'Kenzie, the inventor of curvi- 
linear hot-houses, has recommended what he terms an em- 
brasure flue, upon the principle of its exposing a greater sur- 
face of heated material in proportion to its length. It is 
evidently a very unsightly flue, and possesses no merit to in- 
duce our recommending it. Mr. Gowen"] in the Horticultural 
Transactions, recommends a flue formed of bricks, which is 
hollowed out in the middle, and of the usual thickness at the 

3 Y 



530 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



edges ; tlicy possess the advantage over common bricks, in the 
more rapid transmission of heat, and being easier heated ; but, 
on the other hand, the refrigeration takes place as rapidly, for 
want of sufficient body to retain the heat. 

An improvement upon these bricks has been invented, and 
adopted by Mr. Mackay, of the Clapton Nurseries, in the ex- 
tensive and convenient houses which have been built by him ; 
the thickest part of the bricks used by him is less than that in 
common use, and the middle of each is hollowed out to about 
half their thickness ; they are very neat bricks, and no doubt 
exists of their answering the purpose for which that intelligent 
and industrious cultivator has designed them. They will evi- 
dcnlly heat the atmosphere of the houses sooner, and with less 
fire, which is extremely important to nurserymen; but they 
will, of course, be cooled exactly in the same proportion, for 
want of sufficient body to retain the heat. For green-houses 
they are admirably suited, as slighter fires are necessary for 
them, and their application generally requires to be more sud- 
den to repel sudden attacks of frost ; but for the forcing of 
fruits, where steady and uniform fires are required, we "\vould 
prefer bricks of the usual form and size, which, although they 
require a little more fuel to heat them, when once charged 
with heat, they retain it equally long, and give it out gradually 
for a greater length of time. Tiles, as broad as the tlue, or 
nearly so, and a foot or fourteen inches long, should be used 
for covers, and should be made hollow in the middle of their 
upper surface, for the purpose of holding water for steaming 
the house. 

Flues should be built clear of the ground, and detached 
from the other walls, so that the heat may not be prevented 
from escaping freely from their sides. The bottom of the flues 
should stand clear of the floor of the house, the thickness of 
one brick at least, if more, so much the better, but not so 
as to raise the flue to an objectionable height. The sides 
should be built of well-formed bricks, laid on edge, closely 
jointed with washed lime, mixed with brick-dust, and should 
not be plastered either outside or inside. If the bricks be well 
laid, and neatly jointed, the flue will present a much neater 
appearance than if plastered all over. The covers may be 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



531 



flush with the outside of the flues, but slioukl never project 
over them. If they be an inch, or even two inches, narrower 
than the full breadth of the flue, so as to allow of a little mor- 
tar being drawn in to fill up the angle, they will present a 
lighter appearance. Where only one course of flue can be 
admitted, the broader it is, the more heat will be given out as 
it proceeds, and consequently one extremity of the space to be 
heated will be hotter than the other ; a return, or double course 
of a narrow flue, is, therefore, almost always preferable to one 
course of a broad flue. 

Flues vary in size, from six inches in width, and twelve 
inches in height, to ten inches wide, and eighteen inches 
high; this should, in a great measure, be regulated by the 
purposes for which they are intended. The intermediate size 
between these may, generally, be employed in most forcing- 
houses; some, however, build their flues much larger, and, 
instead of laying the bricks on edge, lay them flat, from an 
idea that the greater the body heated, the longer will it be 
in cooling, and, consequently, continue to give out its heat for 
a greater length of time. This is indeed true, but then it 
requires an equally greater length of time, and a gi'eater force 
of fire to heat them thoroughly, so that what is gained on one 
hand is lost on the other; and if ever the temperature be 
allowed to fall below what is required, flues of such dimen- 
sions will not heat the house so rapidly, as those of less size, 
and will likewise require a greater quantity of fuel. 

Much has been said upon the subject of hot air-flues, but 
they are now almost very justly exploded, as being worse than 
useless. Nicol was at some pains to prove their inutility, and 
he proved it in the following manner : The idea," he says, 
" of collecting the heated air from a furnace, and conducting 
it to the cold end of the house is just and natural enough ; but 
if this cannot be done without conducting the tube or flue, 
which conveys it, upon the fire-flue, to the evident loss of its 
surfice, and of its best part, I would ask, what is gained by 
the experiment, or rather, what is lost by it ? Evidently a 
great deal : all the expense, and double the quantity of heat, 
that can be thus conveyed. The fact is, there is no heat comes 
to the far end of the house, hut just what is col.ccted from the 



o3a 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



fire-Hue into the air-flue, as it travels along. None of it comes 
from the furnace. I had," he says, " a suspicion of these 
truths, and, in order to put them to the test, had tubes of 
various shapes, sizes, and lengths made, and which I could 
lay on the fire-flue, on the ground, or on a shelf, or, in short, 
any where I pleased. They were all fitted to the air-chamber 
formed round the furnace, whicli had a turning valve in front, 
three inches in diameter. That, with which most of the experi- 
ments were made, was a square tube of three inches wide 
formed of milled clay, and baked in the same way that garden- 
pots are. It was of lengths of three feet each, and joined 
with cement. I tried its efibcts in conducting the heated air 
from the furnace, at various lengths and at various heights ; 
from two yards in length to forty feet, and from one foot above 
the level of the furnace to ten. The result of the whole 
amounted to this : that, unless when on the top of the fire-flue, 
air perceptibly hot, could not be drawn from the furnace, to a 
distance of more than twelve feet, even although the furnace 
was made ever so hot. When the tube was shortened to two 
Vnirths (six feet), the air issuing from it raised tlie mercury in 
tnc thermometer to 120^; but when another length was put on, 
though the fire was kept equally brisk, it fell to 96° ; and, by 
adding a fourth length, (the tube being now twelve feet long,) 
the mercury was not affected by the air of the tube, but fell 
to the air of the house. The above experiment was made at 
six feet above the level of the top of the furnace. It was tried 
at two feet above it with hardly any variation ; but, when laid on 
the ground, on the same level with the top of the furnace, 
the heat did not travel to the length of nine feet, so as to 
affect the spirits in the thermometer." 



FURNACE. 

The furnace recommended by Mr. Atkinson is the best, and 
has now been very generally in use for upwards of thirty years, 
and is nearly similar to that recommended by Nicol, and is of 
a size capable of containing less or more fuel, according to 
circumstances. The most usual size is thirty inches long, 
twenty high, and ten broad. The door of this furnace is ten 



THE FORCING GAKDEX. 



533 



inches square, with a circular valve in the centre three inches 
in diameter. The grating is thirty inches long, and of the 
same width as the door. The ash-pit is also furnished with 
a door of the same form and size as that of the furnace, but 
fifteen inches deep. The circular valve in this door is sup- 
plied with a handle to turn it by, for the purpose of admitting 
any quantity of air to the extent of half its diameter. The 
bottom of this oven is placed twelve inches at least below the 
level of the bottom of the flues, and is paved with fire-bricks. 
The walls or sides of the oven or furnace are composed of the 
same material, as is also the arch or roof, and fire-clay is used 
instead of lime. Furnaces of this description have given much 
satisfoction, and are sometimes of larger dimensions, parti- 
cularly when wood, or wood and peat, are used for fuel, and are 
sometimes smaller, when coals, or coals and cinders, are used 
only. 

Small furnaces have an important advantage over larger ones, 
in requiring much less fuel to heat the flues, which when fully 
heated or charged with heated air, the heat is shut up in them 
by means of a damper placed at the extremity of the flue farthest 
from the entrance of the fire, or where the flues terminate in 
the shaft for the discharge of the smoke. Flues thus charged 
with heated air, and prevented from escaping at the chimney- 
top, gradually lose their heat in the house through the bricks 
of which the flues are composed, and when once the whole vo- 
lume of air in the house is heated to the required degree, this 
gradual supply from the flues will keep up the required tem- 
perature for a long time. If the doors of furnaces were made 
double, they would have the advantage of durability, and of 
preserving the heat from escaping behind, and of not so readily 
admitting cold air to pass over the fire, which air, of course, 
will be less heated, and less fit for entering into the flues, than 
if it entered below and passed through the body of fire in the 
furnace. Ash-pit doors are of great use, in consequence of 
their acting as regulators to the current of air for keeping 
the fire alive, or as a damper or suflbcater, when it is judged 
necessary to extinguish or diminish the fire. 

In fixing the situation of the furnace, much may be gained 
in i)oint of economy in fuel, by placing them under the wall of 



53t 



THE rUACTlCAL GARDEN EH, 



tlio house, or even partly within it under tlic floor, instead of 
building it some feet behind the house, where much of the heat 
must of course be lost, both in the thickness of the building 
that surrounds the furnace, and a great part will evaporate into 
the sheds behind, and be entirely lost to the house. This 
might be dangerous if large furnaces were used ; but the supe- 
riority of small ones is now sufliciently proved, that few are 
built of that size, that are at all likely to be attended with 
danger from bursting. Indeed, it is now fully acknowledged, 
that it is better to have two, or even three separate furnaces 
to a large house, than one very large one. 

We consider it as very important to have the grate or bottom 
of tlie furnace placed one foot at least below the level of the 
bottom of the flue, to create what is practically called a draug/if, 
or the circulation of the healed air and smoke, by allowing it 
to ascend a little immediately after leaving the furnace. 'I'he 
chief fault of badly drawinfr flues proceeds more from a want of 
this precaution than from any other cause we know of. It 
often happens, that if the furnaces be sunk to gain a suflicient 
draught, that water, from the nature of the situation, becomes 
troublesome ; but this should be effectually remedied by having 
a sufficient drain laid to the bottom of the furnace, to keep it 
perfectly dry. Without this precaution, we have often known 
much inconvenience to arise. Whether the furnace be placed 
in a shed behind or not, it is necessary to have a sj)ace on 
each side of the furnace, for the purpose of holding fuel and 
the ashes, until they can be removed ; or if they be daily car- 
ried off', which is the better way, one space should be used for 
coal, the other for cinders, so that the operator can mix them 
in such proportions as the state of the fires may rcfpiire. 
These spaces on each side of the furnace may be arched and 
covered 'Over (if not in the back sheds), and the remaining 
s})ace opposite the furnace, which is generally used as the 
means of descending to it, may be provided with a door to shut 
down, when the fires are not used, so as to give a neat and 
orderly appearance to the whole. 

Where the appearance of small sheds is not objectionable, 
should they not be recpiired for any other purpose, they will be 
found necessary appendages over each furnace, both for tlie 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



535 



comfort of those who have the attending of the fires, as well as 
to prevent the fires from being affected by the wind or state of 
tlie weather. 

Each furnace, if at any distance from the others, should be 
furnished with an iron shovel and hoe, for the feeding of the 
fire, as well as to clear the neck from any cinders or ashes that 
may accumulate there, which, if not removed, would prevent the 
free burning of the fuel. 

FUEL. 

Fuel of different kinds has been used for heating hot-houses, 
but none are found to answer the purpose better than coal, or 
coal and cinders mixed. Those coals which produce the least 
smoke are to be preferred, and the smaller they are, the better. 
Wood has been often used, where coals are expensive, but from 
its combustible nature, it gives out its heat too rapidly, and 
soon burns out. Turf has been used in some places, but is 
also far inferior to coal. Cinders and turf are rather a better 
fuel, and have also been tried. Charcoal and coke are often 
recommended, and are of all other kinds of fuel the least 
accompanied with smoke. 

Mr. Knight has recommended what he calls an economical 
fuel, and which he describes in one of his numerous papers in 
the Hort. Trans, as being composed " by making bricks of 
clay and coal-dust, in the proportion of one-third of its bulk 
of the former." With these, he says, he has been able to 
keep up a regular and high temperature at little trouble or 
expense, and calculates upon the ashes and burnt clay as being 
a valuable manure. It is not uncommon to see the peasantry 
in many places make balls in a somewhat similar manner, by 
mixing coal-dust and mud or cow-dung together. The best 
fuel, however, for this purpose, is the small of Newcastle coal, 
and this will be found the cheapest in most cases ; however, 
coal and cinders mixed make very steady and lasting fires, and 
are most generally in use. 

STEAM, AS APPLIED IN THE HEATING OF FORCING-HOUSES. 

It is only very recently that any information has transpired 
on the subject of steam, applied to the heating of hot-houses, 



53G 



Tlin PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



in any cliannel likely to meet the eye of the practical ^^ardencr; 
the horticultural writers have hitherto only slightly mentioned 
the circumstance, without entering into detail. From that 
valuable publication, the * Encyclopedia of Gardening,' we 
extract the following: " Steam atfords the most simple and 
effectual mode of heating hot-houses, and, indeed, large bodies 
of air in every description of chamber, for no other fluid is 
found so convenient a carrier of heat. The heat given out by 
vapour differs in nothing from that given out by smoke, though 
an idea to the contrary prevails amongst gindeners, from the 
circumstance of some foul air escaping into the liouse from the 
flues, especially if these be overheated or over-watered, and 
from some vapour issuing from the steam tubes, when they 
are not perfectly secure at the joints. Hence flues are said 
to produce a burnt or drying heat, and steam tubes a moist 
and genial heat, and in a popular sense, this is correct for the 
reasons stated. It is not, however, the genial nature of steam- 
heat which is its chief reconunendation for plant habitations, 
but the equality of its distribution, and the distance to which it 
may be carried. Steam can never heat the tubes, even close 
to the boiler, above 212°; and it will heat them to the same 
degree, or nearly so, at the distance of one thousand, or two 
thousand, or any indefinite number of feet. Hence results 
the convenience of heating any range or assemblage of hot- 
liouses, however great, from one boiler, and the lessened risk 
of over or insufficient heating, at whatever distance the house 
may be from the fire-place. The secondary advantages cf 
heating by steam are, the saving of fuel and labour, and the 
neatness and compactness of the whole apparatus. Instead of 
a gardener having to attend to a dozen or more fires, he has 
only to attend to one ; instead of ashes and coal, and oiher 
unsightly objects, at a dozen or more places in the garden, 
they are limited to one place ; and instead of twelve pottery 
chimney-tops, there is only one, which being necessarily large 
and high, it may be finished as a pillar, so as to have the effect 
of an ornamental object. Instead of having twelve vomiters of 
smoke and flakes of soot, the smoke may be burned, by using 
Parke's, or some other smoke-consuming furnace. The steam 
tubes occupy nmch less space in the house than flues, and re- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



537 



quire no cleaning ; they may often pass under the paths, where 
flues would extend too deeply. There is no danger of steam not 
drawing or circulating freely, as is often the case with flues, 
and always when they are too narrow, or too wide, or do not 
ascend from the furnace to the chimney. Steam is impelled 
from the boiler, and will proceed with equal rapidity along 
small tubes or large ones, descending or ascending. Finally, 
with steam, insects may be eflectually kept under in hot-houses 
with the greatest ease, by merely keeping the atmosphere of 
the house charged with vapour from the tubes for several hours 
at a time. The boilers used to generate steam are formed of 
cast or wrought iron, or copper, and of different shapes. 
Wrought-iron, and an oblong shape, are generally preferred 
at present, and the smoke-consuming furnace most approved is 
that of Parke's. 

" The tubes used for conveying steam are formed of the 
same metal as the boilers, but cast-iron is now generally 
used. Earthen or stone-ware tubes have been ti'ied, but it is 
extremely difficult to prevent the steam from escaping at their 
junctions. The tubes are laid along or round the house or 
chamber to be heated, much in the same manner as flues, only 
less importance is attached to having the first course from the 
boiler towards the coldest parts of the house, because the steam- 
tube is equally heated throughout all its length. As steam 
circulates with greater rapidity, and conveys more heat in pro- 
portion to its bulk, than smoke or heated air, steam-pipes are, 
consequently, of much less capacity than smoke-flues, and 
generally from three to six inches in diameter, inside measure. 
Where extensive ranges are to be heated by steam, the pipes 
consist of two sorts, mains or leaders for supply, and common 
tubes for consumption or condensation. Contrary to what 
holds good in circulating water or air, the mains may be of 
a much less diameter than the consumption pipes, for the 
motion of the steam is as the pressure ; and, as the greater the 
motion, the less the condensation, a pipe of one inch bore 
makes a better main, than one of any larger dimension. This 
is an important point in regard to appearance, as well as 
economy. In order to produce a large mass of heated matter, 
M*Fhail and others have purposed to place them in flues, 

3 z 



538 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



where such exist. They might also be laid in cellular flues, 
built as cellular walls. The most complete mode, however, 
is to have three parallel ranges of steam-pipes of small dia- 
meter, communicating laterally by cocks. Then, when the 
smallest degree of heat is wanted, let the steam circulate 
through one range of pipes only ; when a greater is required, 
open the cocks, which communicate with the second range; 
and, when the utmost degree is wanted, let all the three ranges 
be filled with steam." This plan has been adopted by Messrs. 
Loddigc, at Hackney, and is, we beheve, chiefly the arrange- 
ment of Mr. G. Loddige. 

As a means of heating upon an extensive scale, we perfectly 
agree with the most strenuous advocates for steam, as being 
the most convenient carrier of heat, as well as of its equality 
of distribution. We are also confident, that nothing injurious 
to the most tender parts of vegetation ever proceeds from 
steam, and that fruits and plants may be grown or cultivated 
in houses heated by steam, as well as in those heated by any 
other means, provided the general management be equally 
good in every other respect. 

But, that steam is the most simple method of heating hot- 
houses, or that it is more economical, either in point of fuel 
or erection, we are far from being singular in discrediting; 
neither do we think that there is any saving in labour. If 
ashes and coals be distributed to ten or twelve different fur- 
naces, they are generally placed in such places that the deli- 
cate eye seldom visits ; few, we believe, excepting the opera- 
tives, visit the back sheds of their gardens, where such un- 
sightly objects are to be met with ; but we have seen such 
places kept as clean and neat as the interior of many hot- 
houses often are. We think the necessary care and attention, 
on the part of the gardener, as much required in attending 
the boiler and steam apparatus, as in attending to any number 
of fires necessary to heat an equal space, provided the fur- 
naces and flues be properly constructed. The chimney-tops 
objected to (although not always the case) often are and might 
easily be made ornamental, as vases, &c., rather than other- 
wise ; and if any degi'ee of taste be exercised in their forma- 
tion and distribution, they become ornamental, taking off' that 



THE FORCING OAR»EN. 



53f 



uniformity and stiff unbroken line, which the top of a garden- 
wall always presents, unless purposely broken. Arranged in 
such a way, they will be less offensive to the eye than a vast 
sliafl, towering above every other object, and disgorging a vo- 
lume of smoke, not much in unison with garden-scenery. Steam- 
pipes certainly occupy much less space in the houses than 
smoke-flues, which is always desirable ; neitlicr do they re- 
quire any internal cleaning, which brick flues do ; but they re- 
juire the inspection of an engineer, or person of skill, to 
examine them once or twice a year ; which is much more than 
the expense of a laborer or bricklayer cleaning the smoke- 
flues. 

That insects are eflectually kept under in houses lieated by 
steam is not the case, it is done by good management only. 
Many who have had them erected have actually pulled them 
down and re-introduced the common flues and furnaces ; and 
a strong proof, that they are more expensive is evident, from 
such eminent gardeners as Lee and Colvil, and many others, 
who have the most extensive ranges of houses round London, 
not having introduced steam. To such men as those, economy 
is an object, and to such practical men we are to look to for 
precedent, and not to gentlemen, who from motives of per- 
suasion or scientific curiosity, adopt such projects. An emi- 
nent London nurseryman, who had his houses heated by steam 
Ai a great expense, has pulled the whole down, and substituted 
flues upon the general principle, but improved by his own in- 
genuity. He calculates a saving both of fuel and labor, taking 
the loss of the expense of his steam apparatus into account. 
Another instance of a person, long eminent for the cultivation 
of fruits in the neighbourhood of London, has pulled his 
down also, and re-introduced the original flues, being prac- 
tically convinced that he has lost much by the experiment ; 
and since the introduction of the hot-water system, heating 
by steam, in this country at least, may be said to be aban- 
doned, as far as regards horticultural purposes. 

It does not appear that hot-houses will ever be built in this 
country upon so extensive a scale, as to render the heating 
by steam really necessary, as a motive of economy. Where 
expense is no consideration, si^am may be introduced into 



540 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



large conservatories, and be converted to many other pur]:)0se3 
connected with domestic economy, as such buildings are usually 
attached to, or near the dwelling of the owner ; but for hot- 
houses in gardens, where the extent is not infinitely greater 
than any that has yet appeared in this country, fire-flues, or 
the hot-water system, will be found much the cheapest, and 
will answer every purpose of heating the houses equally well. 

ON HOT AVATER, AS APPLIED TO HEATING HOT-HOUSES, &C. 

For the invention, and introduction into practice, of this 
really useful and ingenious mode of heating forcing-houses, we 
arc indebted to the ingenuity and perseverance of William At- 
kinson, Esq., of Grove End, St. John's Wood, a gentleman, 
not only eminent in his profession as an architect, but also a 
zealous promoter of every thing connected with horticultural 
affairs. 

For many years Mr. Atkinson has paid much attention to 
the amendment of horticultural architecture, and the improve- 
ments which he has made in that department reflect the great- 
est credit on his talents, both as a man of science and a hor- 
ticulturist. To him we are indebted for many improvements 
in the construction of vineries and peach-houses for general 
purposes, and the application of heat, by means of properly- 
constructed furnaces and flues. 

Mr. Atkinson is not a speculative adviser upon theory only, 
but he possesses a considerable practical knowledge of the 
management of hot-houses, having reduced to practice many 
interesting experiments in his private garden at Grove End. 
Many years ago, while engaged in making experiments upon 
the principles of heat, it struck him that water heated was a 
conductor capable of being turned to account, both for the 
purpose of heating forcing-houses, as well as for those des- 
tined for the habitations of man. 

This idea, in the multiplicity of business, had been nearly 
overlooked or forgotten ; however, happily, his mind became 
again engaged in the theory, and in 182^ he had a number ot 
models made of diflerent constructions, and by them he proved 
the practicability of the theory. These models were made 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



541 



so as to apply to every position that it is possible for smoke- 
flues or steam-pipes to be applied to. 

4t this time, the heating, by means of hot water, was as 
much understood by that gentleman, and a few of his friends, 
to whom he explained its principles, as it is at this moment ; 
and, as far as regards the heating of forcing-houses, he had 
nearly reached the climax of perfection. It would be useless 
to enter upon a point of controversy, as to the original in- 
ventor of this useful mode of heating hot-houses, while we are 
well assured, that the idea not only originated, but was brought 
to its present state of perfection, by that gentleman. It may 
be necessary, however, to state a few simple facts, which it is 
hoped will set this matter in its true light. 

About the time Mr. Atkinson was making his experiments, 
a somewhat similar idea occurred to the late Anthony Bacon, 
Esq., and was tried by him in his houses, but without success. 
We have seen Mr. Bacon's original model, but, from its 
principle, it was incapable of carrying heat to any useful dis- 
tance ; and not until Mr. Atkinson directed the arrangement 
of the boiler and pipes, did it ever answer the desired end, in 
Mr. Bacon's houses. An account of its success in the Elcote 
gardens was published in the Transactions of the Horticultural 
Society, as well as in a provincial newspaper, by My. Whale, 
Mr. Bacon's gardener, as the plan of his late employer. 

It would, however, have been only candid, had Mr. Whale, 
if he were aware of it, given in these communications the 
merit of the invention to the gentleman with whom it first 
originated. We will not attribute this step, on the part of 
Mr. Whale, to a wilful wish to mislead, or to bestow the merits 
of so useful an invention upon one who had only a minor 
share in it, and that share, however creditable to him, as 
an experimentalist, was not sufficiently perfected so as to 
answer the desired end. The death of Mr. Bacon followino- 

o 

soon af>cr the plan was brought to bear, prevents us from 
having his disavowal of the system as it now acts. Mr. Bacon 
certainly attempted a mode of heating by means of hot water, 
but had no idea of it in any other way than merely by heating 
the end of a tube filled with water, and by which he attempted 
to heat his houses, without the knowledge of the absolute 



542 Tiin riiACTicAL gardener. 

necessity of a circulation. So far Mr. Bacon had a share in 
the introduction of this useful plan, tliat he readily entered 
into tlic merits of the hot-water system, and has the credit of 
being the first in whose garden it was put into practice. 

Mr. Atkinson had proposed the heating by hot water to one 
or two of his friends, for whom he was building hot-houses at 
the time, but they considered the thing as speculative, and 
declined it. He, moreover, offered to heat one of the houses 
of a certain public garden by the same means, but the cautious 
managers declined running any risk. They have, however, 
since adopted the very same plan, which they should, out of 
justice to their respectable fellow-member, the inventor, have 
been the first to accede to. 

It has been stated, that a circulation is capable of being 
carried on in one pipe, upon the supposition that the hottest 
portion of the water will flow along the upper part of the tube, 
while the colder portion will return below it to the boiler ; but 
this has not been found to act in practice. 

By means of one pipe, water may be made the vehicle of 
heating to a certain degree, but only by having the tops of 
both the boiler and reservoir closely fixed down, and consti- 
tuting, in fiict, a vessel in one piece ; the boiler and reservoir 
being connected by their being elongated in form by the con- 
necting tube. 

Boilers with fixed tops depart from the simplicity of the 
original mode, and in themselves are objectionable, inasmuch 
as they have to be taken to pieces to have the deficiency of 
water made up, which is lost ; and the diOiculty of getting 
them cleaned, which is a point, if not attended to, that would 
soon end in their bottoms being burnt out, by the sediment of 
the water, however pure, forming an incrustation upon the 
inner side of the bottom, by which the water is prevented from 
touching it; and, at the same time, the fire acting upon the 
opposite side, without the counteracting effects of the water 
within, soon burns them out. 

Add to this, should steam at any time generate within, the 
consequence may lead to accidents of a serious nature. All 
horticultural machinery should be constructed upon the least 
complicated plan possible. It would be a libel upon the intcl- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



5iS 



ligcnce of gardeners in general, to suppose them ignorant of 
the management of steam, in whatever way it may be appUed 
for horticultm'al purposes ; but it is not to be supposed that a 
gardener, who has many other things to think of, can sit all 
night and watch the progress of a steam apparatus ; and few 
gardeners, generally speaking, have men of that talent allowed 
them who understand it; nor can the majority of garden- 
labourers be depended upon, either in regard to rewards or 
punishment, to attend to these matters. 

Steam, for these and other more important reasons, is fast 
giving way to the hot-water system ; and it is gratifying to see 
so many of those who were amongst the first to adopt steam, 
being amongst the first also to adopt the hot-water system, 
being now sensibly convinced of its superiority. 

Seeing steam is abandoned, in consequence of the exor- 
bitant expense of the first erection, the annual expense of 
keeping in repair, and the derangements to which it is liable, 
it is surprising that so many are not satisfied with the hot- 
water system, in its simplest state, when it is already sufficiently 
proved to answer every purpose expected, at least as applied 
to the heating of hot-houses. 

Soon after smoke-flues began to be built upon scientific 
principles, improvements upon them sprung up, under the de- 
nomination of hot-air flues and cold-air flues, hot-air chambers 
surrounding the furnace, &c., all of which were found to be 
of no real use, but rather the reverse ; and they possess no 
other merit than that of making the whole more complicated 
and useless. It would be well, therefore, of those who have 
the erection of the hot-water system, to bear this in mind ; 
and while they improve, which we sincerely hope they will, 
that they will also keep the whole upon as simple a principle 
as possible. 

In its original state, hot-water pipes cannot get out of order ; 
but, by rendering them more complicated, the chances of de- 
rangement will increase. The more simple the construction, 
while, at the same time, durability, neatness, and sufficient 
power, are kept in view, the nearer to perfection will our 
attempts become. 

The principal merits of the hot-water mode of heating 



5M 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



forcing-houses, over that of every other method liitlierto used, 
are many, and have been ah*eady decided. The important 
object of an almost equal distribution of heat into every part 
of the liouse, is attained, which has long been a desideratum, 
and which none before have accomplished. The water in the 
pipes, or reservoir, at the extremity of a house sixty feet long, 
is found to be within a few degrees of that in the boiler; thus 
giving a very equal temperature into all parts of the house. 

The body of water, once heated in the boiler, pipes, and 
reservoir, is long in giving out all its particles of heat to the 
atmosphere of the house, even after the fire has long ceased 
to burn. Thus the person who has the charge of the fires 
may safely go to bed at nine o'clock, and by seven next morn- 
ing find his house at nearly the same temperature in which he 
left it. This can never be relied upon when smoke-flues are 
used. The more capacious the boiler, pipes, and reservoir 
are, the longer will they continue to give out their heat. 

The heat given out by hot water is free from all sulphureous 
and noxious gasses, which smoke-flues, however well con- 
structed, or however good the fuel may be that is used, are 
evidently charged with, and which escape through the joints 
of the flues. It is really surprising, that we have been able to 
cultivate plants and fruits, natives of tropical countries, and 
of exquisite beauty and flavor, in an atmosphere so bad as 
that of our plant-stoves and forcing-houses, in the manner 
tlicy have been hitherto heated. 

That there is a very material saving in the expense of fuel, 
a very important consideration, and the principal cause that 
has prevented the more general erection of hot-houses in this 
country, is allowed by every one that has tried the hot-water 
mode of heating. 

The expense of the first erection is somewhat more than 
brick-flues, and infinitely less than steam. The durability is 
much longer than that of either. The annual expense none ; 
for, if once properly erected, it will last for years, and requires 
no cleaning nor repairs. 

The materials used are cast-iron, for the boiler, pipes, and 
reservoir ; and probably no substitute will be found to answer 
better. In most cases, the pipes hitherto used have been 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



545 



such as are used for conveying water through the metropohs ; 
but, as the demand increases, pipes will be manufactured for 
the purpose, and will consequently be improved. Thus the 
clumsy flanger-joint will give place to a neat socket-joint, or 
probably a better may be devised, and the pipes may be cast 
in longer pieces, and thus require fewer of them. Some have 
used boilers of various dimensions and forms, and have used 
pipes of tin, earthenware, &c., which, if properly laid down, 
answer perfectly well, but of course are much less durable. The 
figure of both boiler and reservoir may be the same or not, 
and may be of any shape to suit circumstances ; but that of a 
square-sided figure will be found in most cases the best, as 
affording greater facility in joining them to the pipes. The 
size of both boiler, pipes, and reservoir, should be in pro- 
portion to the size of the house and the temperature required. 
It is ascertained that a small boiler will heat a considerable- 
sized house ; but as the additional expense of a larger one is 
not material, it will be better to have them in the first instance 
sufficiently large. The form of the pipes hitherto used, has, 
for the most part, been round ; but it is thought that square 
ones, or shallow broad ones will answer better. Stone reser- 
voirs have been recommended, and even stone pipes, but in 
most cases, these would be more expensive than iron ones, 
besides the difficulty of making them water-proof at the joints, 
as well as of procuring stone that would not admit of the 
escape of the water either by absorption or filtration. 

The situation in which the boiler or reservoir should be 
placed, will depend entirely upon circumstances. In all cases, 
both should be placed within the house, as by that means no 
heat will be lost. The boiler may be placed in a recess in, 
or in front of the back wall, either at the ends or middle of 
a house, or between two houses ; the fire to be got at from 
the back sheds ; or it may be placed in the front of the house, 
cither in the middle or ends, as above. When the house is 
of great length, the boiler being placed in the middle, the 
pipes may branch from it to the right hand and also to the 
left, and so extend to the ends of the house, and join to a 
reservoir ; from which the returning pipe, being placed below 

4 a 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the Other, will convey the water back to the boiler to be 
Rfrain heated. When the degree of heat required is consider- 
able, two upper pipes, or even three may be used, or they 
may be of gi*eater size, presenting, in either case, as much sur- 
face as possible. 

A green-house of two hundred feet in length, may be suf- 
ficiently heated in this manner with one fire ; the boiler being 
placed in the middle under the stage, or in a niche in the back 
wall, and the pipes extending to right and left. In all cases, 
where it can be attained, the pipes should run parallel, and 
as near to the front wall or lowest part of the house as pos- 
sible. The heat will always find its way to the highest parts ; 
or, where houses are of less length, and connected, the boiler 
may be placed between two, and either one or both may be 
forced at the same time, with the same fire. In pine-stoves 
and pits, where most heat is required, two or three pipes are 
used to convey the heated water to the extremity ; and this 
water is brought back to the boiler by one single pipe, having 
a slight inclination from the farthest end towards the boiler. 

The hot-water system, applied in the frame or pit-ground, 
for the cultivation of young pines, early melons, cucumbers, 
forcing flowers, sea-kale, asparagus, 6cc., or for the protection 
of green-house plants, bids fair to give a new feature to that 
department; and we hope, through its adoption, to see the 
melon-ground soon a spot of some order and interest, instead 
of a dung-yard of the worst description, which it is at present. 
A very considerable length of pit-forcing might be carried on 
by hot water, and a temperature kept up, not only with regu- 
larity, but with little expense. The uncertainty of dung-heat, 
together with the expense of management and evident waste of 
manure, and the constant litter in which it keeps this depart- 
ment, will be got rid of, by substituting hot water. Fire-heat, 
by means of flues, can never be generally nor safely applied 
to pits or frames of ordinary dimensions, the flues occupying 
too much space, and the heat obtained being so unequally dis- 
tributed, one end being burnt, while the other is freezing. 
This is not the case with hot water ; the heat being uniform 
for any reasonable length, and the space occupying only a few 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



547 



inches. Four pits, each one hundred feet in length, and 
placed in two ranges parallel to each other, the back range 
being elevated, so that the front one should not shade it, which 
might be readily done by forming the ground upon which they 
are built as an inclined plane, one boiler placed in the middle 
between them, and having a course of pipes entering each pit 
from the boiler, and each making a circuit of a pit, and re- 
turning again to the boiler ; or one pipe, of a larger diameter, 
night enter at the front of each of the two back pits, and ex- 
tend to the farthest end, where they might make an elbow 
turn, or discharge into a reservoir, which, containing a body 
of heated water, would increase the temperature sufficiently 
for most purposes, and return by another, immediately below 
it, to the boiler. The others to enter at the back of the front 
range of pits, and make the same revolution as the others. 

Thus, by one fire, four hundred feet of pits, averaging six 
feet in width, might be brought into use at little expense or 
trouble; and in them, a gardener of moderate attainments 
might produce a competent share of all the vegetable luxuries, 
that are to be met w^ith, or wished for, at the tables of the 
great. These pits should be in divisions of three or four 
lights each ; and such as are most remote from the boiler, 
should be occupied with radishes, salads of all sorts, sea-kale, 
asparagus, and such things as require the least degree of heat ; 
and next to them should stand forced flowers, strawberries, 
young pine plants, &c. ; and nearest to the boiler should be 
grown French beans, melons, cucumbers, &c. For a greater 
command of heat, the pipes may be larger next the boiler, or 
two pipes may be used, and afterwards united into one, at a 
cei-tain distance ; from which a sufficient degi'ee of heat would 
be given for any vegetable that is cultivated in these struc- 
tures. In such cases, the boiler should be enclosed in a 
separate space, covered over with a boarded top, instead of 
a glass one, which would be less liable to be broken ; and, 
by being a non-conductor of heat, would therefore more readily 
prevent its escape. 

The smoke might easily be made to pass off, so as not to 
affect the plants in the pits ; and the whole pit-ground might 



54S 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



be laid out with some shar^of taste, and so be an additional 
ornament, at once pleasing and useful. 

The following will explain the principle upon which it acts : 
A is a boiler, to which the cast-iron pipe B is joined, and 
which is four inches in diameter ; the uppermost of which B 
proceeds horizontally from the top of the boiler A, towards 







D 






? = 



A 



the opposite side, or end of the house, where it is joined to 
the reservoir at D, or it may make a turn at an elbow, as at E; 
this depends upon the size of the house. If large, the reser- 
voir D, containing a large body of heated water, gives an 
increase of heat at the coldest end of the house, and renders 
the temperature there equal almost to that at the end next the 
boiler. C is a returning-pipe from the bottom of the reservoir 
D to the bottom of the boiler A. The boiler is set in brick- 
work, in the usual manner. As soon as the fire is lighted, 
and the water begins to heat at the bottom of the boiler, the 
particles of warm water, being lighter than those that are cold, 
ascend to the surface of the boiler, and gradually flow hori- 
zontally along the pipe B to the reservoir D ; and the cold 
water in the reservoir, being heavier than that which is warm, 
gradually flows along the pipe C to the bottom of the boiler. 
As long as any heat remains in the brick-work round the 
boiler, this circulation is kept up. It is found in practice, 
that it is essentially necessary to have two pipes employed, 
one from the top and one from the bottom of the boiler, con- 
nected at the end, either by a reservoir, as at D, or by an 
elbow-pipe, as at E, to keep up this circulation. The boiler 
is furnished with a wooden cover, and the reservoir with an 
iron one : the former is preferred, as the water in the boiler 
will always be rather warmer than that in the reservoir; the 
wooden cover being a better non-conductor of heat than t)ie 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



519 



iron one over the reservoir, and is used to regulate the tem- 
perature of the house. 

The section of a vinery heated by hot water will give a 
pretty good idea of the principle upon which it acts : («) is a 
boiler two feet and a half long, eighteen inches wide, and 
twenty inches deep, and placed in a niche in the back wall of 
the house ; from the end of the boiler proceed horizontally 
three cast-iron pipes, of four mches diameter; two of them 
are joined to the boiler near the top, and proceed upon a level 
to the front of the house, and along the front to the farthest 
end, where they empty themselves into a reservoir, or make a 
turn by an elbow-joint in the pipe, as circumstances may direct. 
In either case, the water is conveyed back again to the boiler 
by a single pipe, which is placed directly under the two upper 
ones, and enters the boiler near its bottom. The fire is fed 
and managed from behind^ in the usual manner, in the back 
sheds {by-^See Plate. 



VENTILATORS. 

Hot-houses built with fixed roofs require a different mode of 
ventilating, than those which have the roof-sashes made move- 
able ; all curvilinear houses, without incurring a great ex- 
pense, belong to this class. The most approved method of 
ventilating houses of that description, are by having apertures 
formed in the front, or parapet wall, under each sash, of sizes 
differing according to the magnitude of the house, or the pur- 
poses for which such house is intended. These apertures are 
furnished with wooden doors or lids, which are opened more 
or less, and shut at pleasure, either individually or all at the 
same time, by means of a sympathetic movement. The top 
part of the back wall is also furnished with corresponding 
apertures for the escape of heated or foul air, and are either 
made to pass directly through the wall, or to turn upwards 
through the coping, and are, in either case, also opened and 
shut up by the same means. According to this plan, a body 
of fresh air is constantly passing into the house from the front 
ventilators, dui'ing the time they are open; while from the to)) 



550 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



ones the heated air, being more hglit, readily escapes, and 
tlie space emptied by such air escaping is immediately filled 
^vith fresh air from below, which circulates through the house, 
until it becomes sufficiently heated to find its way out. This 
important improvement in the necessary change of air in hot- 
houses was first brought into notice by W. Atkinson, Esq., and 
has been employed, with every success, in the numerous hot- 
houses built under the direction of that gentleman. The cold 
air passing into houses in this manner, having to pass over the 
flue immediately upon entering the house, becomes moderated 
in temperature, so that it cannot possibly injure the most deli- 
cate bud or flower ; while the methods formerly in use pos- 
sessed this defect, that the necessary fresh air, however cold 
it might be, was let in close upon the trees by opening the 
sashes, .and while the tree was warm within. Thus a number 
of currents of cold air were in an instant let in upon them, 
which could not but prove of much injury to them in their more 
tender state. Nothing is so injurious to vegetables, as well as 
to animals, as sudden transitions from excessive heat to exces- 
sive cold. For early forcing, this mode of ventilating is de- 
cidedly the best, and all houses, whether for early ov late 
crops, should be provided with such ventilators, thereby af- 
fording the means of giving air in cold or wet weather, when 
it could not be with safety admitted by the roof-sashes. 



FOOTPATHS. 

Footpaths have hitherto most generally been composed of 
mere planks, laid upon the borders to walk on ; in other cases, 
lattice-work has been adopted, supported on blocks of wood, in 
order to admit the sun and air to the border below, and to 
prevent its being much trodden on by walking. Neat wooden 
footpaths, painted and elevated two or three inches above the 
border, arc not objectionable ; but the neatest and most per- 
manent are constructed of cast-iron plates, made to rest upon 
props, at a proper height from the ground. These cast-iron 
gratings can be made to any pattern, and of lengths convenient 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



551 



for their being removed, and placed down agam at pleasure. 
These gratings are well adapted where the path passes along 
above the flue, as they not only prevent the covers from being 
broken, but also allow the free escape of the heat. Such 
gratings have been adopted in the forcing-houses at Sion- 
house, and have a very good effect. Their expense is not 
more than that of neat well-made wooden footpaths, with this 
advantage, that they look much neater, and will last ten times 
as long. 

GLAZING AND PAINTING. 

It is necessary that all hot-houses should be glazed with the 
best crown glass, as admitting a greater share of light to the 
plants contained therein, and not with glass of an inferior qua- 
lity, as was long the practice. Formerly less attention was 
paid to this important point, and on the continent, to this day, 
many extensive ranges of hot-houses are glazed with glass of 
a very inferior quality. It appears, by the experiments of 
Bouguer, that one-fortieth part of the light, which falls per- 
pendicularly on the purest crystal, is reflected off', nor does it 
pass through it ; it may be safely asserted, that green glass re- 
flects off" moev than three-fourths. There is nothing gained by 
using bad glass in the glazing of hot-houses, but evidently 
much is lost. 

Various shapes have been recommended for the panes, or 
pieces of glass, for which purpose the most reasonable is that 
of the rectangular or curvilinear ; but for hot-bed frames, the 
fragment form may be used as cutting less to waste. The 
first of these is the original form, and is still the most fre- 
quently met with ; the second looks neater, and has this ad- 
vantage, that it aids in conducting the water which falls on the 
roof to run down in the centre of the pane, by which means, 
it is less likely to get into the house, between the glass and 
the bars. 

In either case, it is of importance that the glass be cut 
exactly to fit the space, which it is intended to cover, not 
being put in too tightly, which renders it more apt to be broken 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



by any shaking of the sash ; nor yet too narrow, which would 
admit the water to enter into the house ; and that it be well 
bedded in good old putty, so as to lie solid, and therefore sus- 
tain a greater pressure. A great fault in the glazing of hot- 
houses is allowing too much overlap, that is, one pane project- 
ing over the other too much ; and it is difficult to get trades- 
men to attend to this very important point. The broader the 
lap is, the more liable is the glass to be broken, as it contains 
a greater body of water, conveyed into it by capillary attrac- 
tion ; and when such water becomes frozen, the expansion is 
so great, as not only to break the glass, but it soon fills up 
with earthy matter, forming an opaque space, which are both 
injurious, by excluding a large portion of light, and also dis- 
agreeable to the sight. The accidental filling up of such 
spaces with filth, probably first gave the idea of filling the laps 
up with putty of various colors, principally black, and was an 
important improvement in hot-house glazing; soon after fol- 
lowed the adoption of narrower laps, either puttied or left 
open. 

Laps of less than a quarter of an inch, in either rectanguJar 
or curvilinear formed panes, may be puttied without having a 
bad effect, and will materially aid in preventing the glass from 
being broken. The expansion of water by frost, which lodges 
between the laps, breaks more glass than any other natural 
cause whatever. This mode of closing the lap, either for the 
exclusion of cold or wet, is more durable, and less troublesome 
in repairing, than any other. The smaller the laps are, so 
that they cover the joint perfectly, the neater will they look, 
and the less liable will they be to be broken. 

Putty of the best quality should only be used for hot-house 
glazing, and that called soft 'puity, being formed of well 
wrought paste of flour of whitening and raw linseed oil, is 
the best and most durable, because it forms an oleaginous coat 
on the surface, and requires longer time to dry. Other sorts 
have been used and recommended, but the difficulty of getting 
it out in repairing is so difficult that it is found advisable to 
use only the soft piittij. Of the various forms of glazing, 
may be mentioned the following: the rectangular; the frag- 



THE FORCING GARDEN* 



TTicnt ; the perforated sliicld ; the entire shield ; tlie rhoni' 
boidal ; the curvihnear lap ; the reversed curvilinear, &c. 

\ strict attention to painting the houses in some regular 
order, or at stated times, has not been sufficiently attended to. 
The expense is certainly considerable ; but, in the end, a strict 
attention to this particular will be found a great saving. Paints 
of the best quality should be used, and, as light is the object 
in view, white of all colors is to be preferred, or next to that, 
light stone color. In painting newly erected houses, they 
should not be considered as finished with less than three good 
coats, and should be painted every second or third year, with 
one coat on the outside, and for the inside, once in four or five 
years will be sufficient. 

TRELLISING. 

Trellising is now universally made of wire, as being lighter, 
stronger, and more durable than wood, and capable of being 
put up at much less expense. The distance at which wires 
should be placed from each other, as well as from the walls, or 
glass, depends upon the trees intended to be trained upon 
them. For grapes, a foot from the glass, and fourteen inches 
apart, will be found sufficient ; for peaches, nectarines, cherries, 
or plums, one foot from the glass, and nine or ten inches apart 
from each other. Grapes trained up the rafters of pine-stoves, 
&c. should be one foot from the rafter, and to form a triangu- 
lar trellis, composed of three courses of wire, to which they 
should be secured. Vines are sometimes trained up the rafters 
of green-houses, in the same manner. The trellises sliould 
be so arranged as to afford the greatest possible surface for 
training upon, without creating confusion or shade. Vines are 
most generally trained up the roof, covering the whole surface, 
at a distance sufficiently secure to prevent the foliage from 
being scorched, yet near enough for the wood and fruit to 
enjoy as nuicli sunshine as possible. In metallic houses, the 
distance from the glass should be greater than in wooden ones. 
Peaches, nectarines, &c. are sometimes trained in the same 
manner as vines, but they are more generally trained to the 

4 B 



554 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



back wall, having a curved trellis in front, extending from the 
front parapet to within a sufficient distance of the back wall 
to admit of a walk of sufficient breadth. This curve is more 
or less, according to circumstances, but should be kept as high 
as possible, so as to enjoy as much benefit from the glass as 
can be obtained, but still not so much as to shade in any de- 
gi'ee the back wall. In houses of ordinary dimensions, trel- 
lises constructed in this manner will admit of a great surface 
for training upon. We have constructed with success perpen- 
dicular gable trellises, exactly placed under every alternate 
rafter in houses trellised as above, and never failed of having 
very good fruit in all parts of the house. This we consider is 
giving the greatest possible extent of trellis that can be intro- 
duced into any house. It has been asserted, that such per- 
pendicular treUises shade the other parts of the house; but 
this is not the case, if due attention be paid to training in the 
shoots, as they advance in a regular manner to the trellis ; a 
practice which should be attended to upon every trellis ; and 
so convinced are we of the propriety of such a mode of train- 
ing, that were we to construct peach-houses to any extent, the 
larger part should be trellised in this manner. In houses for 
very early forcing, the back wall only is trellised, such houses 
being very justly constructed on a narrow scale, and training 
too near the glass in them, might be attended with accidents. 




m? inn:^Q^H's iPiEiACi'icAL (S.A:?iT}:£iT:s:Bi, 



THE 

PRACTICAL GARDENER, 

AND 

Moi^evn H^ovtitnltnn^t; 

CONTAINING 

THE LATEST AND MOST APPROVED METHODS FOR THE 
MANAGEMENT OF THE 

KITCHEN, FRUIT, AND FLOWER-GARDEN, THE 
GREEN-HOUSE, HOT-HOUSE, &c. &c. 

FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR; 
Eaih Department being distinctly and separately arranged ; 

ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS DESIGNS OF THE MOST ELIGIBLE PLANS 
FOR THE FORMATION OF 

KITCHEN AND PLEASURE-GARDENS, 

THE ERECTION OF HOT HOUSES, HOT-BEDS, GREEN-HOUSES, 
CONSERVATORIES, WALLS, FENCES, Lc. &c. 

INCLUDING THE 

NEW METHOD OF HEATING FORCING-HOUSES WITH 
HOT WATER ONLY; 

FORMJSG 

A COMPLETE SYSTEM OF MODERN PRACTICE, IN THE VARIOUS 
BRANCHES OF HORTICULTURAL SCIENCE. 



EMBELLISHED WITH HIGHLY- FINISHED ENGRAVINGS OF SOME OF THE MOST 
CHOICE AND VALUABLE FRUITS AND FLOWERS NOW 
CULTIVATED IN THIS COUNTRY. 

^ 

By CHARLES INTOSH, C.M.C.H.S. 

Lute Gardener to the Rujht Honorable the Earl of Brardalbane, and Sir Thomas Baring, Bart., 
M.P., SfT. Av. and notr Head Gardener to the King of Belgium, at Claremont. 

SIXTH EDITION. 



VOL. II. 



LONDON: 
PRINTED. FOR THOMAS KELLY, 17, PATERNOSTER ROW. 



1836. 



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Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



555 



MONTHLY OPERATIONS 

OF THE 

FORCING GARDEN. 



JANUARY. 



PINES. 

All those cultivators who have attained the greatest celebrity 
in the cultivation of this fruit agree in the necessity of having 
three distinct divisions, or compartments, suited to the different 
stages of their growth. One for crowns and suckers ; one for 
those in their second stage of growth, generally termed suc- 
cession-plants ; and a third for the plants when fully estab- 
lished, and in which they are to perfect their fruit. 

The necessity of these separate pits, or divisions, is proved 
by the plants requiring different modes of treatment during 
their growth, particularly as regards temperature. 

Climates in which the pine is indigenous, have not this 
variety of temperature, it not being necessary in nature. The 
growth of the plant from the seed, suckers, or crowns, pro- 
ceeds at all times of the year as they may happen to be stuck 
into the ground. This slovenly mode of culture never brings 
this incomparable fruit to that state of perfection, which we 
often see it in the pine-stoves of this country ; and even here 
we have it in higher perfection and flavor, than it is ever found 
in a cultivated state within the tropics. 

Although the pine is a native of warm climates, it is not so 
tender as many imagine. They will bear a much higher de- 
gree of heat, for almost any length of time, than most fruit- 
bearing plants in cultivation, and will also, without injury, 
bear a degree of cold that would be death to any other exotic 
fi-uit, while in a state of vegetation. They are liable to be 



55G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



attacked by insects, in all stages of their growth ; the most 
annoying of which are the white turtle insect, (Coccus Hes- 
peridifm, Linn.) the white scaly insect, and the white mealy 
crimson-tinged insect, the last of which is the worst, as it 
attacks the plant from the top of the crown to the remotest 
parts of the root. Although difficult to clear of such enemies, 
still they will bear them, without sustaining much injury, longer 
than almost any culinary vegetable will withstand the attacks 
of the insects natural to them. Of natural diseases this plant 
has few, and we find it producing its fruit under a greater va- 
riety of bad culture, than almost any other cultivated fruit. 

A variety of opinions have of late been entertained, whether 
this plant should be cultivated in a bottom heat, that is, whether 
the pots in which the plants are planted should be plunged into 
substances, either in a state of fermentation, or rendered more 
or less warm by means of fire-heat, steam, hot water, &c., or 
whether it should not be cultivated without such bottom heat, 
or at least only to a temperature approaching to that of the 
natural warmth of the soil, in which it grows in its native 
country. When first introduced into Europe, it was cultivated, 
as we might naturally suppose, without any such bottom heat ; 
and the Dutch gardeners, who first attempted its cultivation, 
placed it upon stages with their other succulent exotics. In- 
genuity, however, soon suggested, and experience approved, 
the advantage of plunging the pots in which the plants are 
planted in a mild bottom heat. Pines, however, do not re- 
quire so strong a heat at their roots, as many keep them in, 
yet there is something so congenial to their natures, in being 
plunged in a moist mild temperature, that those, who have 
attempted their cultivation to any extent without it, have gene- 
rally failed not only of producing fruit of any size or quality, 
but are unable to keep the plants in a healthy growing state. 
It is true that no plant is found in a state of nature growing 
in a soil warmer than that of the superincumbent atmosphere ; 
but in cultivating many of our fruits and vegetables, we are 
not to imitate nature as the best mode of culture. If such 
were the practice, what would or.r asparagus, cabbage, and 
many other of our mor.t valuable vegetables be? and il we 
were to grow our celery in ditches, should we be rewarded 



Jafl.'] THE FORCING GARDEN. 557 

with that highly useful and delicate salad in a state so good, 
as that where it is cultivated in the usual manner ? Although 
pines will grow without bottom heat, still we have the experi- 
ence of many years, and also of many intelligent cultivators, 
that they will grow in bottom heat much better ; and although 
the heat of the soil in which the pine grows in its native coun- 
try may never exceed, and seldom equals that of the surround- 
ing atmosphere, yet it does not follow that earth heated to a 
gi-eater degree may not be of service to it, in an artificial state 
of cultivation. Our indigenous plants, Cromhe ISIarithna, 
sea-kale ; and some others, are brought to the greatest 
perfection, by being cultivated in a temperature much higher, 
in proportion to their natures, than has ever been attempted 
with the pine. The conclusions drawn by an intelligent 
writer upon this subject are in exact correspondence with 
our own. "It appears from nature," says he, " as well 
as from observing v/hat takes place in culture, that the want 
of a steady temperature and degree of moisture at the 
roots of plants, is more immediately and powerfully inju- 
rious to them than atmospheric changes. Earth especially, if 
rendered porous and sponge-like by culture, receives and gives 
out air and heat slowly ; and while the temperature of the air 
of a country, or a hot-house, may vary twenty or thirty de- 
grees in the course of twenty-four hours, the soil at the depth 
of two inches would hardly be found to have varied one de- 
gree. With respect to moisture, every cultivator knows that 
in a properly constituted and regularly pulverized soil, what- 
ever quantity of rain may fall on the surface, the soil is never 
saturated with water, nor in times of great drought burnt up 
with heat. 1 he porous texture of the soil and sub-soil being 
,at once favorable for the escape of superfluous water, and ad- 
verse to its evaporation, by never becoming so much heated 
on the surface, or conducting the heat so far downwards as a 
close compact soil. These properties of the soil, relative to 
plants, can never be completely attained by growing plants in 
pots, and least of all by growing in pots surrounded with air. 
In this state, whatever n:ay be the care of the gardener, a 
continual succession of changes of temperature will take place 
in the outside of the pot, and the compact material of which U 



558 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

is composed being a much more rapid conductor of heat than 
porous earth, it will soon be communicated to the web of roots 
within. With respect to water, a plant in a pot surrounded 
by air is equally liable to liijary. If the soil be properly con- 
stituted, and the pot properly drained, the water passes through 
the mass as soon as poured on it, and the soil at that moment 
may be said to be left in a state favorable to vegetation ; but 
as the evaporation from the surface and sides of the pot, and 
the transpiration of the plant proceed, it becomes gi'adually 
less and less so, and if not soon re-supplied, would become 
dry and shrivelled, and either die from that cause, or be ma- 
terially injured by the sudden and copious application of water. 
Thus the roots of a plant in a pot surrounded by air are liable 
to be alternately chilled and scorched by cold or heat, and 
deluged or dried by a superabundance or deficiency of water ; 
and nothing but the perpetual care and attention of the gar- 
dener, to lessen the tendency to these extremes, could at all 
preserve the plant from destruction. To lessen the attention 
of the gardener, therefore to render the plants less dependent 
on his services, and, above all, to put a plant in a pot, as 
far as possible, on a footing with a plant in the unconfincd 
soil, plunging the pot in a mass of earth, sand, dung, tan, or 
any such material, appears to us a most judicious part of cul- 
ture, and one that never can be relinquished in fruit-bearing 
plants with impunity. Even if no heat were to be afforded by 
the mass in which tlie pots were plunged, still the preservation 
of a steady temperature, which would always equal the aver- 
age temperature of the air of the house, and the retention, 
by the same means, of the steady degree of moisture, would, 
in our opinion, be a sufficient argument for plunging pots ol 
vigorous growing or fruit-bearing plants." 

Mv. Knight, in several papers in the Horticultural Trans- 
actions, has endeavoured to establish the practice of growing 
pines upon stages, and otherwise, without bottom heat; but 
in this practice he has not equalled, far less excelled, the mos^^ 
indifierent pine-grower in the country. Example is better 
than precept ; and until Mr. Knight has proved by example 
liis mode of culture to be superior to that so long approved of 
by practice, his converts must be few. However, this cmi- 



Ja?i.] THE FORCING GARDEN. 559 

nent horticulturist deserves well of his country for any experi- 
ments he may make ; he has made many, and some highly 
useful, and, much to his credit, he has performed them at his 
own expense, so that if he fail in some, it is but a natural 
consequence which falls to the lot of man. However, he has 
succeeded so far by his own confession, in one important ob- 
ject, namely, in initiating a novice, an ignoramus, or, to use 
his own words, an " extremely simple laborer, who does not 
know a letter or a figure, and who never saw a pine-plant 
growing till he saw those of which he has the care," to under- 
stand their culture as well as he does himself. 

Attempts to cultivate pines, without bottom heat, have been 
tried by several gardeners, both on the continent and in this 
country, and have been abandoned without the least hope of 
success. 

The necessity of a mild bottom heat being urged, we will 
now proceed to consider the most economical agent to produce 
that effect ; as economy in the production of every article of 
horticultural produce should be the first consideration of the 
practical gardener, provided the result will be equally good 
with that of more extravagant methods. 

Tan, or tanner's bark, has been longest and most univer- 
sally used for forming a bed in which to plunge the pines in 
pots, and also to plant both crowns and suckers while still 
without roots. In using tan, it should be well sweated and 
frequently turned over previously to putting it into a new pit, 
so as to reduce it into a half-rotten state ; and, in adding new 
bark at any time, in shifting the plants, or regulating the tem- 
perature of the bed, there should never be a great proportion 
added at one time, seldom above one-ei.ghth of the whole. In 
putting in the new tan, it should be well kept down in the 
process of trenching and mixing the whole, and bringing up 
twelve or fifteen inches of the old tan to the surface in which 
to plunge the pots. When much of the old tan appears de- 
cayed and reduced to mould, it should be sifted, and the finer 
parts rejected and carried out of the house, and the coarser 
remains mixed along with the rest in the bed. To keep up a 
regular temperature, the beds will have to be stirred up, and 
firesh tan added, in such portions, and at such periods, as 



5G0 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



may be tliouglit necessary for the purposes required ; and 
when peculiar circumstances require a speedy augmentation of 
heat, without displacing the pots, as when the fruit is to be 
swelled off in the last stage, at which time the roots of the 
plants will generally be extended into the bed, and would be 
seriously injured if disturbed, the more decayed tan at the top 
may be removed in part carefully, and a coat of new tan 
substituted : this is also often practised when the heat of the 
bed declines, and the state of the weather, or other circum- 
stances, prevent a thorough turning over of the whole, ^y hen the 
tan gets too dry at any time, which it will be apt to do near the 
flues, water should be poured upon it occasionally between the 
pots, which will cause a fine moist heat to arise among the 
plants, which is always desirable in pine-stoves, and will like- 
wise enable the tan to retain its heat longer than if it were 
suffered to become dry ; for no vegetable matter will continue 
in a state of fermentation after the moisture has evaporated. 
Besides, it will prevent the chance of the dry tan igniting, 
which is sometimes the case near the flues, admitting that 
there should be a cavity or space between the bricks that com- 
pose the flues, and the tan-bed. 

Tan should always be partially dried before put into the 
bed ; and if kept in an open airy shed, for a week or more 
before using, so much the better. Heat thus produced will 
last, with very little trouble, from three to six months, when 
it is again put into fermentation, by adding a proportion of 
fresh tan, as stated above. 

Where tan is difficult to be procured, and where oak and 
other tree-leaves are to be had in plenty, the bed may be 
composed chiefly of leaves, or a mixture of leaves and stable 
dunff, usinjr a little tan to surface the bed with, in which to 
plunge the pots. In using leaves of trees, either alone or 
mixed with dung, tan, or any other substitute, it is necessary 
that they be well fermented before they are carried into the 
pine-house or pit, that the rank heat may be so far extracted 
from them. They will, in this case, keep to a much more 
steady heat, and last much longer without renewing. 

Leaves for this purpose should be chiefly composed of oak- 
leaves J for experience has taught us that they are more dur- 




} 



Jan.] THE FORCING GARDEN. 561 

able in fermentation than any other; however, beech, horn- 
beam, and Spanish chestnut, are nearly as good. Those of 
ash, all sorts of fruit-trees, horse-chestnut, and lime should be 
rejected, if plenty of the others can be readily procuredr 
They should be collected as soon as they fall from the trees 
in sufficient quantities, or as soon after as is practicable, and 
be gathered into large heaps in different parts of the woods ; 
or, if there be convenience, they will be more handy, if brought 
at once to some place near to the forcing-houses or pits. There 
should be a neat inclosure formed, capable of containing a 
sufficient quantity for the season, open at top, and the sides 
secured with boards four or five inches broad, and three or 
four inches apart from each other, with a gate sufficiently 
large to allow a cart to go in and out, for the convenience of 
filling the place with leaves, as well as for taking them out, if 
wanted, to a greater distance than it would be deemed right 
to convey them by any other means. This will prevent them 
from being blown about over the garden, and will render the 
place neat and clean. They will here ferment, and be at all 
times ready for use ; if they should be put in very dry, which 
often is the case, they should be watered for the purpose of 
commencing fermentation, and it may be found hereafter neces- 
sary to repeat this watering. It would be very useful to have 
another place of the same dimensions, and similarly construct- 
ed, in which to place dry leaves ; if well trodden when put in, 
they would keep for many months, and be extremely useful 
in summer for many purposes, and in the autumn following, 
before the leaves fall off the trees. 

In putting them into the pine-pits, if they be dry, they 
should be watered and well trodden, so that they will not sink 
too much afterwards. When the pits are full of leaves, the 
plants may be plunged in them in the usual manner, or there 
may be laid a few inches of tan upon the surface, upon which, 
when properly levelled, place the pine-pots, filling up the 
spaces between the rows of plants, as the process proceeds, 
closely with tan. Two wagon-loads of tan will be sufficient 
for a large house, and will last for this purpose a season. If 
tan cannot be procured, saw-dust may be used as a substitute, 
or plunge them in the more decomposed leaves, taken from 

4 c 



562 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the bottom of the pit or bed. The pots, when plunged into 
the bed made of leaves alone, are apt to become loose, the 
leaves binding together in heating, and thus shrinking away 
from them, thereby exposing the roots to the air, and per- 
mitting the heat of the bed to escape ; whereas, when plunged 
in tan, saw-dust, or similar substitutes, this evil is obviated. 

The heat produced by oak, or other leaves, is uniform, mild, 
and lasting, and seldom endangers the roots of the plants with 
too much heat, which is an important object; and if the leaves 
be put in, in good condition, they will keep up a sufficient tem- 
perature in most cases for six months, and will not require 
to be turned over so often as tan, or any other substitute, to 
refresh the process of fermentation. This will save much 
trouble and expense, preventing also the necessity of exposing 
the plants to heat and cold, by moving them about from one 
place to another. The roots of the plants will also penetrate 
through the holes in the bottom of the pots, and extend them- 
selves a considerable way into the bed of half-decayed leaves. 

From the appearance of the roots of these plants, we might 
naturally suppose that the plants derive nourishment from the 
half-rotten leaves, and also from tan in a state of decomposi- 
tion; although A. Young, Esq., in his Essay on Manures, 
says, that spent bark seems rather to injure than assist ve- 
getation, which he attributes to the astringent matter it con- 
tains ; but every cultivator of the pine must have observed with 
what seeming pleasure the roots of these plants penetrate into 
half-rotten tan, as well as into leaves in a similar state of de- 
composition ; indeed, many excellent cultivators root their pine 
plants in rotten taix only. Oak-bark is certainly highly charged 
with astringent properties, but is freed from that property by 
the operation of water in the tan-pit ; and if injurious to vegeta- 
tion, the effect is probably owing to its agency upon water, or 
to its mechanical effects. Many of our more rare Alpine plants 
thrive in rotten tan, when they will live in no other prepara- 
tion which we can make for them. 

Where tan cannot be very readily obtained, oak or other 
leaves are equally good for the fermenting purposes in the pine- 
pits ; and, indeed, where it is even to be conveniently procured, 
we would recommend a mixture of both, as affording an ex- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



563 



.ceilent temperature, more lasting, and more uniform in its 
effects. 

Leaves, after being too much decayed to be of further use 
in the process of keeping up a sufficient temperature, are, of all 
other species of manures or moulds, the most useful and gene- 
rally used in a garden ; and, when reduced to vegetable mould, 
are experimentally known to be the most natural of all vegetable 
food. Scarcely any seed refuses to vegetate in it, and many 
of our choicest flowers prefer it to all others. It enters into 
almost all compositions for fruit-trees and fruit-bearing plants, 
and is a manure suited to all soils, and under all circumstances. 

Speechly, during the time that he was gardener to the Duke 
of Portland, brought the use of oak-leaves into notice as a 
substitute for tan, and used them to a great extent. He goes 
so far as to say, that a bed of them will retain sufficient heat 
during twelve months without turning, or any further trouble, 
and that those which have been in use for a season will, by 
an addition of fresh leaves, continue their fermentation still 
longer. It must be allowed, that any material, capable of 
affording a sufficient degree of heat for these plants, without 
renewal, for one season or more, would be a desideratum to 
the horticulturist; for, besides the saving of labor and ex- 
pense, which, in large collections of pines, are considerable, 
the plants would be much less liable to sustain injury or checks 
in the operations of turning or renewing the beds, to which 
they are constantly liable, however carefully the operations 
may be performed. We have never, in our practice, been able 
to secure so long a continuance of sufficient temperature in 
one bed, without a renewal or addition ; but we have uniformly 
found the heat from leaves to be much more permanent and 
regular, than that from any other material. It is only for 
plants in their last stages of growth, that is, from the time that 
they are potted in the sized pots, in which they are to perfect 
their fruit, that their remaining undisturbed is of the most con- 
sequence to them. Previously to that period, they would have 
to be frequently removed out of the bed, for the purpose of 
being placed in larger pots, at periods depending upon their 
state of gi'owth, &c. Beds of leaves, properly fermented and 
made will retain sufficient heat, in most cases, from the time 



5G4 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

that the plants are plunged in them for the last time, that is, 
from the time that they are shifted into full-sized pots, until 
they ripen off their fruit ; and the same quantity of leaves, 
without addition, will continue their heat during twelve 
months, if turned over twice or thrice a year, or at such times 
as may be most convenient, when the plants are taken out for 
re-potting. 

Pines are also successfully cultivated, without either tan or 
fire-heat, by means of dung only; for which purpose, beds 
are made of dung, after being properly prepared by fermenting 
and turning, and erected as is usually done for cucumbers, 
and a frame placed upon it similar to those used for growing 
that fruit, but of such dimensions as are suited to the size of 
the plants, whether they be nursing, succession, or fruiting. 
The pines are plunged in these beds as in the tan-beds, and 
managed accordingly. When the bottom heat declines, linings 
of hot dung are applied, in the usual way, to promote a con- 
tinuance of heat ; and when the whole mass becomes too much 
decayed, and too compact for the heat of the linings to pene- 
trate freely, the plants are removed into others similarly' pre- 
pared for their reception. By this simple means, pines have 
been grown equally well with those in expensive and lofty 
pine-stoves, and at a considerably less expense. Beds built 
of fagots, and covered with fifteen or eighteen inches of tan, 
leaves or saw-dust, and heated by means of external linings, 
answer equally well. 

Dung-heat and fire-heat combined have been used by Mr. 
Jenkins of the Portman nursery, for several years. The 
heat imparted to the plants is by him produced from the fer- 
mentation of rank stable-dung, not at all prepared previously to 
using, in a vault below the plants ; the top of which vault is 
covered with thin tiles, supported by means of iron-bearers. 
The joints of the tiles are closely cemented, to prevent the 
steam from getting into the house. The pots, in which the 
plants grow, stand upon the tiles without being plunged in 
either tan, or any other material ; the heat penetrates through 
the tiles, and is found to warm the atmosphere of the house 
sufficiently for cultivating these plants. However well this 
plan has hitherto succeeded, there is no doubt but that if the 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



565 



pots were plunged in tan, sand, or saw-dust, it would be of 
material advantage to the plants, by keeping both a more eoual 
degree of temperature and moisture round their roots. 

CONSTRUCTION OF THE PINE-HOUSE. 

The fruiting pine-houses in the royal gardens at Kensington 
may be considered complete of their kind, and are calculated 
both for the cultivation of pines and vines, the former in the 
bark-bed (a), as in the accompanying section ; and the latter 




up the rafters of the roof. These houses vary in length, from 
thirty-three to fifty feet, and are fifteen feet wide within walls. 
The pit for the plants (a) is nine feet wide, the back path {b) 
forms a border for the roots of the vines planted against the 
back wall. The bark-bed or pit is surrounded by a flue (c d) ; 
the curb is twenty-seven inches from the glass in front (e), and 
four feet eight inches from it behind (y). The vines are planted 
in the back border (b), and trained under the roof directly over 
it, and others are planted in the front border (g), and trained 
up the rafters in the usual manner. 

Each house or division is heated by two furnaces, one of 
which is for the most part sufficient, and the other as an auxili- 
ary, when the state of the weather demands an extra supply 
of heat. The first («), in the accompanying gi'ound plan, pro- 
ceeds to the front of the house, and runs parallel to the bed 
to the other end ; then along the back of the pit (d), passing 
under the back path and terminating in the chimney {/), near 
to where it entered. The extra furnace is placed at the other 
end of the house (g), passes under the back path which con- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



567 



latter furnace is not often 
in use, its connection with 
the other is cut off by a 
damper, at the point of 
junction at (d). 

The height of these 
houses is only nine feet 
from the ground to the top 
of the back wall. The 
rafters are of wood, as are 
also the sashes, and are 
placed at about four feet 
apart centre from centre. 
The front sashes («), in the 
accompanying end eleva- 
tion, are only one foot six 
inches high, and slide past 
each other in the process 
of giving air, the middle 
end sash {b) also slides for 
the same purpose. The 
sill of the door (c), and 
the back path of the house, 
are on a level with the 
outer surface of the ground. 
The front border (d) is 
raised above it considera- 
bly, a provision judged 
necessary on account of 
the damp bottom. The 
furnaces are placed in the 
back sheds, and are sunk 
three feet below the sur- 
face {h h in the ground 
plan), to give them a 
sufficient draught. Pine- 
houses constructed upon 
the above principle, have 
given the greatest satis- 




568 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

faction ; and, we may add, that were such houses heated by 
hot water, according to Mr. Atkinson's method, they would be 
all that could be wished for, as far as the structure and mode 
of heating are concerned, in this important branch of gar- 
dening. 

The accompanying elevation, sections, and plan, are of a 
pine-house, executed from the designs of W. Atkinson, Esq., 
and heated by hot water, and have been found to give the 
greatest satisfaction, and may be considered the perfection of 
the principle ; the temperature here has been sufficient, under 
every circumstance, to prove, that the hot-water system, as 
recommended by that gentleman, is amply sufficient to bring 
to perfection " the king of fruits." In this house, the roof- 
sashes are fixed, and the air is admitted by the ventilators 
(F and G). The boiler (a) is placed in a niche in the back of 
the house, and is heated and managed from the sheds behind. 
The pipes (d d) convey the heated water from the boiler to the 
front of the house, along which it travels to the ends, and heats 
the water in the reservoirs (B B), or rather displaces the cold 
water in them, which finds its way back to the boiler through 
the single pipe (E), which it enters near its bottom, as is shown 
in the section. This house may either be divided by a glass 
partition in the middle, and both divisions kept up to an equal 
temperature, or, if desired, it may be all in one. In the former 
case, it would be convenient, when it may be desired to grow 
certain kinds of pines separately, one, for instance, being filled 
with Queen pines, which produce their fruit many months 
sooner than those which are of larger size, and generally de- 
nominated Black pines ; or one division may be started into 
fruit before the other; or may be dedicated to those which 
have shown fruit in autumn, and are intended to ripen late in 
winter, or very early in spring. Such houses as this, we con- 
sider to be all that can be wished for, in the cultivation of the 
pine ; and to those who prefer to continue the mode of heating 
by smoke-flues, it is our opinion that none answer the purpose 
better than the Kensington pine-houses, recommended in this 
article. (See Plate.) 

Steam, as a bottom heat, has been repeatedly tried, but 
without that success which was expected. This was predicted 



Jan.] THE forcing garden. 509 

by Speedily and M'Phail long ago, and, until the present 
time, their conjecture has been verified. We find, by a com- 
munication in the Hort. Trans., that Mr. Gunter, at his gar- 
dens at Earl's Court, tried steam as a substitute for tan, by 
introducing it into a vacuity in the bottom of the beds. His 
beds v/ere formed of , mould, and the plants planted out on 
them, the whole being supported on rafters, covered in some 
parts with brush-wood, and in others with perforated planks. 
The heat obtained from the steam was found sufficient, but 
what is rather singular, no vapour penetrated through the 
mould, which soon became so dry and burnt up, that even 
waterings repeated often were not sufficient to keep the mould 
in the beds in a state fit for vegetation. In the gardens of 
Count ZubofF, at Petersburg, stqam. has been applied to heat 
a large cistern of water, the whole size of the pit, which, 
when once heated, continued to give out its heat gradually and 
for a long time. 

Steam-pipes have often been introduced into pits, and co- 
vered with fragments of stone, gravel, saw-dust, and coal- 
ashes, upofi ihe surface of which the plants in pots w^ere some- 
times placed, and in other cases plunged into the latter mate- 
rials ; and in some cases, the cavity in which the pipes were 
placed was covered with perforated planks, for the ascent of 
the heat; but, in most of those instances, the success was far 
short of that of pines plunged in a bottom heat, produced 
either from tan, leaves, or dung. The refuse in the process of 
dressing flax has been used in many parts of Scodand, to pro- 
duce a bottom heat, but the heat produced has been found too 
violent, and of short duration. AJoss, (flT/pnt/m,) has been 
suggested lately by Mr. Street; and, as its decomposition and 
fermentation proceed slowly and never violent, it is proba- 
ble that it may be successfully used as a substitute for tan, 
leaves, &c. 

Having so far entered into detail on the means of obtaining 
a sufficient degree of bottom heat, for the growth of these 
plants, we will now proceed to detail their general manage- 
ment throughout the year, in the three departments of nursing, 
succession, and fruiting pits or beds ; and in so doing, we 

4d 



570 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



will suppose the plants to be growing in beds of tan, leaves, 
dung, or a mixture of all, and when reference is made to the 
temperature, it is to be understood as applying to the scale ol 
Fahrenheit's thermometer, as being in the most general use 
in gardens. 

In addition to this, however, may be added that of Six's, 
and denominated Six's registering thermometer. It will be 
found useful as a check on the person, who has the charge oi 
the fires, it being so constructed, as to indicate the extreme 
points to which the heat has follen or risen in the course ot 
the day or night ; and for ascertaining the temperature at the 
roots, or in any part of the bed, we recommend the pine-bed 
thermometer, invented and manufactured by Mr. Bregazzi, 
price II. I2s. 6(1. , which may be procured by means of any 
of the respectable London nurserymen. 



NURSING PINE PLANTS. 

The temperature of this department should now be kept up, 
as near as can be to G5°, mornings and evenings, and in sun- 
shine, on good days, it may be permitted to rise to 70°. In 
whatever way this department be heated, whether by fire-heat, 
steam, dung, or tan and leaves in a state of fermentation, the 
same degree of temperature should be kept up, which can be 
readily done by any of those materials. The general manage- 
ment of the plants will be the same, in whatever way the 
temi>erature is kept up. Air should be freely admitted every 
good day, dividing the quantity so admitted regularly, that a 
equal circulation may be in all parts of the pit or frame 
Whatever the state of the weather may be, it is necessary thr 
the confined air be allowed to escape, which can be done b 
tilting up the ends of some of the sashes an inch or more a 
front, and a corresponding number being also opened at th 
back ; the confined air being lighter, by reason of its being muc 
warmer, will either rush out or be displaced by the pressure of th 
cold, and of course the heavier air, forcing in on the opposite sid 
will in a few minutes charge the pit with a volume of fresli ai- 



Jan»] THE FORCING GARDEN. 571 

which will supply the plants till furnished with more by the 
same means, or till more favorable weather. Indeed, there 
is much more injury done to the plants, by being too long 
confined in a close unwholesome atmosphere, than by allow- 
ing fresh air into the bed, should it even lower the tem- 
perature 5° or 10°. Little water will be required at their roots 
at this season, once in twelve or fifteen days will be often 
enough, even where fire-heat is used. Still it will be neces- 
sary not to fix any precise time for watering, but to perform it 
accordingly as the plants may require it. Those which stand 
next the flues may require it oftener ; and such as are strong 
and vigorous will require some water, while others that are 
not so luxuriant may thrive without any, even for a greater 
length of time. This is a matter of some importance, and 
therefore the plants should be examined, at least once a week, 
at this season, and only then, such as may really want it should 
be watered. Jt is better to give a little and often, than to de- 
luge them at once, and leave them for a week or two without 
any water 

In watering pines during the winter, some of the best cul- 
tivators apply it from 80° to 85° of heat, and some much 
warmer. Water applied to their roots, or over the leaves, 
in a cold state, is evidently a bad practice ; we should think 
a pretty good criterion might be fixed, by applying the 
water at, or a little above the temperature of the air of the 
house. Even in summer, >vater should be exposed to the in- 
fluence of the sun for some time previously to its being used, 
or rendered mildly warm by the addition of a portion of water 
heated for the purpose. It is, perhaps, not going too far to 
suppose, that cold water applied to the roots, or over the 
leaves of plants, while exposed to a temperature of from 80 
to 100 degrees of heat, produces effects somewhat analogous 
to persons drinking it while they are in a state of high per- 
spiration. 

Those pits, however, which are wholly heated by means of 
fermenting matter alone, will not require watering so often, as a 
considerable moisture will be supplied from the materials un- 
dergoing the process of fermentation. To promote a still 



572 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



moister atmosphere in the pits or frames, they may, in fine 
days, be syringed all over with water brought to the tempera- 
ture of the air of the pit or frame, but this should not be done 
in a careless manner, a little being sufficient at a time, and 
it is also of importance that it be regularly divided over the 
beds. In dull cloudy weather be more sparing of this mode 
of watering ; but in clear frosty weather, when there is some 
sunshine, it may be given more largely. It is safer to give 
too little water at this season than too much, and it should be 
administered in the forenoon of such fine days as sometimes 
happen at this season. The operator need not open every light 
for this purpose, but syringe the whole from the middle ; or, 
if the pit or frames be long, at equal chstances from each end. 
While the watering is going on, a second person should hold 
a mat over the operator to prevent too much cold air from 
rushing into the pit. This watering over head is of much 
consequence, where the forcing is carried on by means of 
steam or fire-heat only, as, in such cases, the internal at- 
mosphere of the pit or frames is generally too dry for any 
plant almost to live in ; and were not the pine one of our 
hardiest exotics, and capable of living in such artificial cli- 
mates, that almost no other fruit-bearing plant could exist 
in, more instances of fiiilure would occur from this practice 
alone, than from all the other bad modes of cultivation com- 
bined. 

Such crowns and suckers as have been taken off the fruit or 
plants late in autumn, and are not yet -well rooted, will ot 
course be kept at one end of the pit or frame, and can be sup- 
plied with much less water than such as have struck root, and 
will soon be beginning to make both fresh roots and leaves. 
The sashes should be covered up carefully every night, with 
mats or thick canvas covers, and over them some reed-mats 
should be placed, as being capable of throwing off the rain or 
melted snovr, which the canvas, and more particularly the mats, 
would let pass through to the glass ; and, if the sashes be not 
in excellent good order, would penetrate into the plants, which 
might be the cause of too much damp, besides chilling the 
atmosphere of the pit or frame too much. This covering should 



Jan.'] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



573 



be put on about sun-set in the evening, and removed by sun- 
rise in the morning, or soon after, and should never be kept 
on during the day, excepting in very severe weather indeed. 
Light and air at this season are the principal natural agents 
for keeping pines in health ; and when either is withheld for 
any length of time, the plants will soon lose color, and assume 
a sickly appearance. Whatever way pine-pits or frames arc 
heated, covering tlie sashes at night is certainly a great saving 
of fuel, where that article is expensive. 



SUCCESSION PINE PLANTS. 

The plants in the succession house or pit, should be ma- 
naged much the same as the nursing-pit, already described. 
The temperature should be kept as near to 00° as possible, 
and should not be allowed to exceed 65°, as sudden transitions 
at this season would be apt to start the plants into fruit, which 
would be next to losing them altogether. Less heat should 
generally be allowed succession-plants, than even those in the 
nursing-pits, in order not to draw them ; and during their con- 
tinuance in the succession compartment, they should be allowed 
more room in the bed, and be frequently shifted, and abund- 
antly supplied with air and water, in order to strengthen the 
heart or root part of the plant, that they may be able to throw 
up strong fruit. The admission of air may be regulated, as 
directed above for the nursing-pit, and water should be given 
in moderate quantities every ten or twelve days. The cover- 
ing should be, in like manner, attended to mornings and 
evenings. 



CONSTRUCTION OF SUCCESSION PINE-PITS. 

As an example of an economical and useful succession pine- 
pit, we give that of Mr. Aiton, in the royal gardens at Ken 
Sihgton, which is the same as that of Baldwin, in which he 
has so successfully cultivated this fruit, and of which the ac- 
companying figure will give an idea. In the Kensington gar- 



571- THE rUACTlCAL GARDENER. [JlVl, 

diiUj the soil being damp, they ai'e raised on a platform (a b), 
a little above the surface, to render them dry at bottom, which 
is a very necessary precaution. In front, they are provided 
with a gutter (c), which is of material consequence, by keeping 




the lining in front dry, and thereby preventing the heat from 
being interrupted, or the bed suddenly chilled, during and 
after heavy rains. The plants are often fruited in these pits 
in the royal gardens, but, for the most part, they are removed 
into the fruiting-house, recommended in the last article. The 
best cultivators of the pine prefer to grow their plants in pits, 
in preference to the old practice of growing them in larger 
houses, or deep pits, heated in a great measure with fire-heat. 
Many varieties of pits for this purpose have been recom- 
mended, but we see nothing in them superior to the above, 
which combines all that is necessary, under good management, 
to grow this plant in the first degree of excellence. 



FRUITING PINE-PLANTS. 

The plants in the fruiting-pit will require to be treated the 
same as the succession-plants above. Keeping the tempera- 
ture steadily at from 60'' to 65°, as it will be more desirable 
for general purposes that the plants do not start into fi:uit till 
the middle or end of next month. Some sorts of pines are, 
however, found to swell tolerably well during the winter; such, 
therefore, as are in fruit, should be kept as deep in the bed as 
possible, so that their roots may enjoy a sufficient share oi 
heat to forward the fruit at this time, when the general tem- 
perature of the house cannot be kept sufficiently high for them, 
without sacrificing the remainder of the plants, whose general 
crop of fruit it may be desirable to keep back to a later period 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



575 



of the year ; they should also be liberally supplied with water 
at their roots, and be frequently sprinkled over head with clear 
water, to refresh their leaves. 

Most of the generally cultivated pines, however, are found 
not to succeed so well, if brought into fruit at so early a sea- 
son. Where pines are cultivated upon an extensive scale, it is 
better to have separate fruiting-houses, and indeed succession- 
houses for the different sorts, that will swell their fruit in win- 
ter, and also for such as fruit at a more advanced season. 
Small houses, therefore, have this important advantage over 
large ones, that the crops, of whatever kinds they may be, 
can be brought into fruit in regular succession, which cannot 
be done so well in houses of more capacious dimensions, where 
the inhabitants require a very different treatment, particularly 
as regards temperature. 

Thus, if a separate fruiting-house was appropriated to 
QueenSi and some of their nearest associates, they might be 
fruited in nine months, or even twelve months, less time, than 
those that are generally by gardeners denominated black pines, 
which include the larger growing sorts, such as the New Pro- 
videnccy Globe, Black Antigua, and Enville, which require 
three or four years' cultivation, and upwards, to bring them to 
due perfection, and which, when gi'own to the amazing weight 
of ten or twelve pounds, may well deserve a separate house for 
their reception. 

It not unfrequcntly happens that a quantity of water lodges 
m the hearts of pine-plants, either from the rain or melted 
snow finding its way through the sashes, in consequence of 
bad glazing, or not being in a proper state of repair, and often 
from the excess of watering over head, assisted also by the 
condensation of steam falling into them from the glass. When 
this is observed, particularly during winter and autumn, it 
should be drawn out by the syringe made for the purpose, and 
which can be purchased of any respectable nurseryman, or 
may be made by any ordinary intelligent tin-smith; or, in 
want of such an instrument, many cultivators use a small tin 
tube, one end of which they introduce between the leaves of 
the plants, and draw the water out by sucking it up with their 
mouths. 



576 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan* 

Fruit of the New Providence pine has been grown in the 
garden of W. Crawshay, Esq., Cyfartha Castle, Glamorgan- 
shixe, of the following extraordinary weights; one twelve 
pounds fifteen ounces, one t^n pounds eight ounces, one ten 
pounds, and two nine pounds each. In the same garden, 
twelve queen pines have been cut, weighing altogether thirty- 
five pounds. 

FORCING VINES. 

Attempts have been made to have crops of grapes ripe in 
March, by beginning to force in August, but after much ex- 
pense and trouble, this practice has seldom realized the ex- 
pectations of its most sanguine advocates. The time of ripen- 
ing is not always early in proportion to the time of beginning 
to force. When the course of forcing coincides nearly with 
the natural growing season, ripe grapes may be cut in less 
than five months ; when short days compose a third part of 
the course, in less than six months ; when the course includes 
full half of the winter, it will require seven months before we 
can calculate upon ripe fruit, and then it will be of an inferior 
quality. The best time to begin to force is the first of March, 
if the object be to obtain a good crop of well-flavored grapes 
moderately early. In proportion as the state of vegetation is 
put into action before that time, the natural habits of a deci- 
duous plant, and the unfavorable state of the weather, will 
leave a great number of obstacles, and discouraging contin- 
gencies to retard final success. 

Those who are ambitious to have ^rly fruit, to answer the 
demands of the market or their employer, and who have seve- 
ral grape-houses, generally begin -to'^orce the earliest by the 
middle of December, and sometimes in November, and suc- 
cessively in other, houses the first day of the year, the first day 
of February, lind the first day of March. To go through the 
details of all these houses, would lead to frequent repetitions 
which might tend rather to confuse than otherwise, and there- 
fore we will confine our observations to one department, and 
begin with the year to regulate the vinery, and have every 
thing in order for commencing forcing by the first of February. 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



577 



About the beginning of this month, let tlie flues be pro- 
perly cleaned out, and such repairs as may be necessary done 
to the houses ; at the same time, let the walls, flues, &c. be 
well washed with water, and afterwards white-washed with 
hot lime or whitening ; the wood-work and glass washed with 
soap and water, and the trellises and vines anointed with a 
mixture of soft soap, sulphur, and tobacco. The borders 
."hould be forked up, and the vines, supposing them to have 
been pruned in November or December, fastened to the trel- 
lises, in a neat and orderly manner. The surface of the bor- 
der should be covered with a coat of rotten dung two or three 
inches thick, and well watered with the drainings of the dung- 
hill, sufiicient to penetrate to the full depth of the border. 
This watering should be repeated occasionally during this 
month. The border on the outside should also be covered 
with five or six inches of good moist dung, if not done in au- 
tumn, which will be of much benefit to the vines, by protect- 
ing their roots from the effects of severe frosts, as well as con- 
tributing an additional supply of nourishment to them ; and, 
indeed, this and the application of liquid manure, are the only 
means of supplying the necessary nourishment to them, as dig- 
ging it in would be attended with serious consequences to their 
roots, however carefully the operation may be performed. 

Some cultivators have recommended supplying the roots with 
liquid manure, by forming drains under the surface, and allow- 
ing it to escape from them into the borders ; but when that 

nectar of vegetation," as Nicol calls it, can be supplied by 
the simple process of pouring it upon the surface, or by spread- 
ing rich half-rotten dung upon it, as recommended above, we 
see little to be gained by such draii>s. The liquid manure, 
applied in itself, will find its way sufficiently deep into the bor- 
ders, if supplied in a sufficient quantity, and the natural rains 
of winter will wash down sufficient nutriment from the dung, 
and should that be thought not sufficient, repeated waterings 
may be applied as an auxiliary. 

The border should, as directed for the interior one, be 
carefully forked a few inches in depth, merely to render the 
surface more porous, and capable of admitting the juices of 
the dung, but care must be taken not to injure any of the 

4 E 



578 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



roots that may be near the surface. About the beginning of 
the month, or indeed as soon as the operations of cleaning and 
washing the house are commenced, the sashes should be put on 
(if they have been at all removed), and shut up every night, 
as well as during heavy rains or snows during the day, but a 
sufficient circulation of air should be admitted during the day, 
either by the lights or by means of ventilators, to keep tlie tem- 
perature nearly equal to that out of doors, till towards the 
third week in the month, when it may be allowed to exceed the 
external temperature a few degrees. During the third week, 
slight fires should be made throughout the day to dry the flues, 
and if they raise the temperature in the house, give sufficient 
air to keep it within due bounds. 

If the vines be planted outside of the house, they should be 
protected by means of moss or hay-bands first wound round 
their stems, then covered with long littery dung or fern-fronds, 
secured from being blown about by a piece of old mat, or any 
such covering. 

The stems of the vines inside the house, and their larger 
branches for some feet from the stem, should be covered with 
moss or soft hay wound round them, and watered frequently 
with a syringe, which will keep the stems moist, and will con- 
tribute to their breaking stronger, and the production of vi- 
gorous shoots. In cases of hard forcing this is particularly 
necessary, and should always be done to such vines as are 
planted in pine-houses, particularly such as are planted within 
the house. 

The able conductor of the Gardeners' Magazine make the 
following excellent remarks upon Mr. Shephard's practice : 
*' The vines have been in a state of continued pine-apple heat 
for thirty, and some for nearly forty years, and during the 
whole time bearing excellent crops. The sorts are chiefly the 
Black Hamburg and Sweetwater, with some Muscats. Mr. 
Shephard's general practise is to keep his pines at a very low 
temperature during autumn, and very high in the beginnino- 
of summer, the difference between which gives the vines a com- 
parative winter ; add to this, that they are chiefly trained over 
the back path, and that, by letting the sashes down during 
the greater part of the day in September, the leaves and shoots 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



579 



are exposed to the direct influence of the weather. A sort of 
winter is, in some cases, produced, or at least prolonged, by 
ti'aining the shoots so closely under the roof glass as even to 
be in contact with it: that position being, in the winter season, 
the coldest in tlie house, owing to the radiation of heat from the 
exterior surface of the glass. Mr. S. strips the leaves off the 
vines every year, in the end of October or beginning of No- 
vember, because, soon after the latter period, the sap begins to 
rise. In general, the Sweetwater vine so treated ripens its fruit 
about the beginning of April, and the Hamburg about a month 
later. The plants at the warmest end of the house, where the 
flues enter, in some cases ripen their fruit a month earlier 
than those at the cold end, and the vines in the succession- 
pineries are, of course, much later than those which are ripen- 
ing their fi'uit. By this means, a succ-ession of grapes is ob- 
tained from April to J uly. The stems of most of the plants are 
within the houses, in general in the back path, and the vines 
trained under the glass over that path ; but sometimes they are 
planted in fi'ont, and trained under the rafters. In the latter 
case, the roots extend into a front border ; in the former, they 
extend under the tan-pit, and into a border behind the back 
wall. The borders are never dug, but every year a coating of 
about a foot in thickness of half-rotten dung is spread over 
them, to keep out the frost in winter and the drought in sum- 
mer, and to nourish the roots and encourage them to come 
to the surface." 

We find our own opinion coincides with that of Mr. Aeon, 
a very successful cultivator of the vine, in a communication to 
the Hort. Soc, the substance of which is as follows : the elastic 
powers of the wood are restored by a few weeks exposure to a 
cold atmosphere, which it never fails to lose when long con- 
fined in a warm dry one ; exposure to frost promotes a dispo- 
sition in them to break into bud much stronger and more uni- 
form. 

A supply of grapes throughout the year is a desirable mat- 
ter, and has been often attempted with more or less success. 
In a communication in the Hort. Trans, by Mr. Aeon, we find 
the following to be his practice : he arranges it so, that " the 
late house crop lasts from the middle of January to the end of 



580 THE PRACTICAL GAPDENER. [Jan. 

March ; this is succeeded by the first crop in the early house, 
which carries on the supply into May, and it is continued by 
the grapes on the rafters in the same house, until the pine- 
stoves, which are forced early in J anuary and February, pro- 
duce their crops. These keep in bearing through the summer, 
when a vinery, which I begin to force about the end of March 
furnishes the supply till the late house fruit is ready in Janu- 
ary. This completes the succession." To effect this, he grows 
his early crops of grapes in a wide house with a flat roof, and 
plants the vines both on the back wall, and also on a trellis 
proceeding from the front parapet-wall to within as great a 
distance of the back wall as admits of a sufficient walk or pas- 
sage between them. This trellis is at a considerable distance 
from the roof, and placed at an angle that casts the least shade 
on the back wall. The vines upon this trellis, and those on 
the back wall, are begun to be forced on the first of Septem- 
ber, and by his process produces ripe grapes the first week in 
March, which last till May. Six weeks after the vines above 
are put into a state of vegetation, he introduces another set of 
vines from the front, and trains them up the rafters. These 
latter introduced vines produce their fruit early in May, and 
last till late in June. To prevent too much shade, only one 
shoot is allowed to each rafter, and throughout the whole sys- 
tem of pruning, no more wood is left than is sufficient to 
secure a crop, both in the late and early houses ; and in the 
summer pruning, the fruit-bearing shoots are pinched off at the 
joint above the fruit. 

" When the crop is over, and the wood perfectly ripe, the 
branches should be laid near the ground, and shaded till the 
recommencement of the forcing. By this practice, they will 
be found to have accumulated excitability. The shade wiK 
have some affinity to the gloom of winter, which never fails to 
give vegetation increased energy. Plants which have been 
forced early will always have an inclination to bud at the ac- 
customed time, whilst it is difficult to move those which have 
never been habituated to forward excitement, but the habit 
once induced will continue, and will enable the cultivator to 
procure fruit at any time." 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



581 



The vinery in which he produces his late grapes is much 
narrower than that in which the early crops are produced, and 
having the roof also much steeper. The forcing, if we may 
so call it, in this house commences about the middle or end of 
May, by shutting up the house, and until the vines are out of 
blossom a warm temperature is kept up. "This," he justly 
observes, " is of more importance than is generally imagined. 
The wood which has to bring the future crop will be all made 
during this period. In a good heat it will be found to grow 
more compact, and to receive a form better calculated to pro- 
duce and ripen fruit, under the cold atmosphere to which it is 
afterwards exposed. If the house be kept too cool at the 
beginning, the wood will be soft and long jointed, and there- 
fore subsequently barren. Those who attempt to grow late 
grapes must pay serious attention to this circumstance, the 
feilure of many may be attributed to the neglect of it." 

The sorts of grapes preferred for this late forcing are the 
Black Damascus, St. Peter's, and Muscat of Alexandria, as 
they have the properties of continuing much longer in a per- 
fect state after they are ripe, as well as their ripeni-ng better, 
after the sun becomes less powerful than any others. It is, 
however, necessary to complete the success of this late forcing, 
to have the berries perfectly coloured before the season is too 
far gone. A mild temperature being maintained during winter, 
these will be fit for cutting by the middle of January, and 
continue in perfection till those in the early forced houses 
come in, in March. 

The vinery recommended by Mr. Atkinson for early forcing 
is now in very general use, and may safely be recommended 
as the most economical and rational of any. The accompany- 
ing plan, section, and elevation, will illustrate its principle. 
The roof sashes are fixed, and air admitted by the ventilators 
(A and B). These vineries have hitherto been heated by smoke- 
flues, but may be heated by hot water, the pipes and boiler to 
be placed where the furnace and flues are represented. In the 
accompanying plan, the furnace is placed in the sheds behind, 
and the flues entering the house under the floor level, proceed 
to within a reasonable distance of the front wall to admit of 
the vines being planted inside the house ; they then rise above 



582 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



the surface, and proceed to the further end of the house, where 
they make a turn, and return to that part of the house where 
they entered, and the smoke is discharged in the shaft at (C). 
The front wall is built on arches, which are within a few 
inches of the surface, to admit of the roots of the vines find- 
ing a free means of reaching the border outside the house. 
Such houses have been very generally recommended by that 
gentleman, and are, under different modifications, to be met 
with in many of the first gardens in the three kingdoms, and, 
where the cultivation has been judicious, the success in regard 
to crops has been complete. {See Plate.) 

The distance at which vines should be planted, in forming a 
new vinery, is not easily determined, as much depends upon 
the kinds intended to be cultivated, the mode of training to be 
adopted, and other circumstances. It is, however, always 
better to plant too many than too few, as the cost of plants is 
+rifling, and should any fail, or others turn out upon fruiting 
to be of sorts of minor value, the remedy is in cutting the 
least worthy out. We have observed already, that one vine of 
a good sort, such as the Black Hamburg, will soon completely 
fill a large house, and, under good management, produce as 
great a weight of well-flavored fruit, as any number of the 
same kind filling the same space ; and when variety is less a 
consideration than quantity, this practice is not to be con- 
demned. The most general mode of planting vineries, is to 
place one plant to each rafter, with a view to permanency. 
Many excellent gardeners, however, plant many more, both 
for variety and to suit the mode of pruning and training to be 
afterwards adopted by them. Amongst the latter, we can 
instance Mr. M* Arthur, F.H.S., gardener to A. Baring, Esq., 
who is one of the most successful cultivators of the vine, as 
well as one of the best gardeners in the country. The success 
of his mode of culture, we have often had the pleasure of wit- 
nessing, and can safely assert that we never saw finer crops 
produced. The vines in his houses are planted without any 
regard to distance, or number. By having many vines in one 
house, each has consequently a less number of bunches to 
produce, and may therefore be expected to produce them of 
greater size, both in the bunches and in the berries. But 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



583 



we have, also, often observed vineries planted equally thick 
of plants, without producing crops of any merit. It therefore 
appears, that more depends upon the system of good manage- 
ment than upon the distance at which they should be planted, 
the mode of training, the form of the house, or any of the 
many points advocated by some of our theoretical horticul- 
turists. In planting vines, some attention should be paid to 
the situation each should occupy in the house, according to 
the lateness or earliness of ripening of the kinds. Thus, if 
vines of early ripening be planted at that end of the house 
where the flues enter it, and later sorts at the end farthest from 
the fire, the season of grapes will be prolonged for a greater 
length of time ; and if this order of arrangement be reversed, 
the crops will be more uniform in their order of ripening. 
Vines of delicate habits, such as the Frontignacs, should be 
planted by themselves, and not mixed with the more hardy 
and luxuriant-growing kinds, as in that case the former would 
be robbed of their share of nourishment by the latter ; and 
probably a want of attention to this point may be the cause of 
so many complaints of the want of success in the cultivation of 
the finer kinds of grapes, when planted promiscuously among 
others. Some grapes require a greater degree of heat to 
ripen them in perfection than others, such therefore should be 
planted in pine-stoves, or in separate houses by themselves. 

Speechly, in his " Treatise on the Vine," justly condemns the 
practice of planting all the different sorts of vines at the same 
distances, and recommends planting in proportion to the natu- 
ral character and qualities of the kinds. Vines planted at 
three or four feet distant, he considers as crowded, and ob- 
serves that, although by this mode a house will soon become 
furnished, yet in a few years time they become cramped for 
room, and are, consequently, rendered less productive. For 
those vines which have a space of twelve feet in height to grow, 
he recommends the more robust kinds to be allowed twelve 
feet distance at their roots, plant from plant, and the less 
luxuriant ones, a distance of six feet from each other. But, 
in order to fill the space to be covered with vines, he purposes 
to plant temporary plants, to be cut out as the permanent ones 
extend in growth. Such temporary plants he advises to be 



584 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



grown to a good size in large pots, so as to come immediately 
into bearing, and to be so trained as to fill the upper part of 
the house or wall, while the permanent ones are filling the 
lower parts. 

FORCING PEACHES. 

Peaches are frequently begun to be forced in December and 
January, and become ripe in May. Little is gained by com- 
mencing sooner. But for a general crop, most gardeners pre- 
fer to begin by the first of February ; and for this purpose, 
they begin to prepare the house during the month of January, 
supposing the trees to be healthy and fully established, and 
that they have not been pruned in November or December, 
when the vines were pruned. About the beginning of the 
month, let the flues be properly cleaned, and such repairs as 
may be necessary done to the house, the whole of them washed 
v.ith water, and afterwards the walls and flues whitewashed 
with hot lime, to give the whole a neat and clean appearance. 

Supposing the trees to be established, and their wood of 
moderate growth, neither luxuriantly strong nor yet too weak, 
they will of course be sufficiently ripened, having been forced 
the preceding year. If the shoots have been laid in a proper 
distance, and in a regular manner, during their summer train- 
ing, they wall require but little pruning at this time. First go 
over the whole of the trees, and examine what wood is worn 
out or nearly so, and if there be enough of young wood to fill 
up such spaces, then remove all or part of such branches as 
are exhausted. This should be done annually, so that it will 
not be requisite to cut out too much at once, as no tree is so 
impatient of severe pruning as the peach. Such shoots as 
are thus laid in to fill up the space occupied by the branches 
removed, should be shortened in, more or less, according to 
their strength, and the size of the space to be filled up. in 
order to cause them to break in such parts, and to push such 
a number of shoots as will fill the space intended as soon as 
possible. The summer shoots should be gone over, and a few 
of such as are near the bottom or middle of the tree shortened, 
or where there is a deficiency of proper wood, to cause a growth 
of young wood to supply any vacancies that may hereafter 



Jan.] THE FORCING GARDEN. 585 

occur in the tree ; but such shoots as are short, stout, well- 
ripened, and nearly of an equal thickness, having a good 
wood-bud at their extremity, and a number of blossom-buds 
arranged along them, should not be shortened, but laid in at 
full length, for from these may be expected the finest fruit ; 
and, indeed, in most cases, it would be useless to shorten them, 
as they seldom have wood-buds, except at their lower and higher 
extremities. Shortening, therefore, unless at a wood-bud near 
the bottom of the shoot, would destroy the whole ; for if they 
be shortened any where but at a wood-bud, although the fruit 
might set, still it would come to nothing, in consequence of 
the want of a terminating shoot to draw nourishment for its 
support. 

We are informed by Mr. Patrick Neil, in Hort. Tran., that 
M. Du Petit-Thouars, an eminent French physiologist and 
peach-cultivator, has drawn conclusions considerably at vari- 
ance from this received opinion. " He denies the propriety of 
the distinction usually made of wood-buds and flowev-buds ; 
but states, that in the peach-tree for example, each leaf pro- 
duces a bud at its axilla or base ; this bud soon becomes 
triple, the two outer proving flower-buds, and the middle one 
a leaf or wood-bud. When this central bud happens to be 
favorably placed, it sometimes developes itself indefinitely, and 
produces the anomaly of a gourmand or robber. He has also 
announced that the embryo flowers of peaches, apricots, pears, 
and apples, are palpably formed as early as midsummer of the 
year preceding that in which they are unfolded, and produce 
fruit. He asserts, that the branches of a mature tree produce 
regularly every season an equal average quantity of embryo 
flower-buds, and that if these fail to be duly developed, it 
must be owing to the low temperature to which they are sub- 
sequently exposed during the winter, or early in the following 
spring." If he be correct in these observations, the affording 
protection to such fruit-trees in the early spring months, ac- 
quires additional importance, and furnishes one of the best 
reasons yet given for protecting such as are in peach-houses, 
by allowing the sashes to remain permanently on them, as re- 
commended by Mr. Atkinson. 

4 F 



58G ' THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

Towards the extremities of the trees, provided that they 
have not yet filled their respective places upon the wall or 
ti-ellis, most of the shoots, particularly the strongest, should 
be shortened, in order to cause them to push out shoots to fill 
the space, as they proceed. If this be not attended to, the 
shoots will extend themselves to a gi-eat length, and become 
naked and useless. All parts of the trees that appear too 
crowded with shoots, should be regularly thinned out, and the 
whole tree as it were balanced, or regularly supplied, with 
young wood from bottom to top, which, from the nature of 
the tree, will readily be accomplished, if sufficient attention 
be paid to a judicious mode of pruning. 

The pruning being finished, let the whole of the trees and 
trellises be washed or anointed with the mixture, as directed 
for vines, and this should be done carefiilly, for fear of de- 
stroying the buds, which will now be much swollen. Lay the 
young shoots flat in one hand, while with the other gently 
draw a piece of sponge, dipped in the liquor, upwards (but 
7wt downwards), or the reverse way of the buds, two or three 
times, so that all filth may be washed off, and a good portion 
of the composition made to remain on the trees. The older 
shoots should be well scrubbed, upwards and downwards, to 
remove all filth, and the rubbing continued until the bark of 
the tree is well charged with the composition; indeed, the 
larger branches should be frequently anointed, before the 
blossom begins to expand, to soften their outward bark, and 
leave a greasy appearance upon them. Tincture of Digitalis, 
diluted in water, in the proportion of one ounce of the former 
to three pints of the latter, has been recommended for the 
destruction of the green-fly upon peach-trees; the application 
is made by sprinkling the liquid on the leaves or branches in- 
fested ; and in many cases this is more conveniently applied than 
fumigation with tobacco-smoke. If the trees have any appear- 
ance of mildew, it should be now carefully attended to. The 
points of the shoots should be examined, where the mildew is 
only at this season likely to be discovered, and if it cm be 
done without injuring the form of the tree, or removing shoots 
that can ill be spared, the infected shoots should be removed 



THE FOIICING GARDEN. 



587 



as Ikr down as the disease appears. However, if the shoots 
cannot be conveniently spared in course of the pruning, anoint 
such as are infected with a thick coat of sulphur, made into a 
paint-like substance by soap and water. This will soon eradi- 
cate it, if it has not become constitutional, or does not arise 
from an improper soil ; in such cases, the border must be en- 
tirely renewed, and if the trees be much exhausted, they also 
must be removed and fresh ones planted, which may be taken 
either young from the nursery, or established from some of 
the walls in the garden, and carefully removed into the house ; 
but where such is the case, it will be advisable not to force 
the house early, or if it cannot be avoided, allow few fruit to 
form upon such trees as are thus brought in. This will enable 
them to make wood sufficiently strong to secure a plentiful crop 
the following year. 

The pruning and anointing being finished, let the whole be 
neatly tied to the trellis, about six or nine inches apart, ac- 
cording to their strength, with neat pieces of matting, well 
twisted, and moistened in water to add to their toughness. 
The larger branches should be arranged first, and the smaller 
ones laid in between them in regular order, observing, in tying 
tlic shoots to the trellises, to allow plenty of room for the 
shoots to swell. A general rule is to allow as much as would 
admit another shoot of equal size along with the one tied in. 
This being accomplished, fork over the borders of the house 
carefully, so as not to injure the roots of the trees, and give 
the whole floor of the house a good watering or two with 
liquid manure, either prepared for the purpose, or collected 
where it drains from the dunghill, sufficient to penetrate to 
the bottom of the border. The border outside the house, as 
far as the roots may be supposed to have extended, should 
also be forked up a few inches deep, in order to allow the 
rains to wash down the juices of the dung, with which the 
border should be covered to the thickness of three or four 
inches ; this dung should not be too much exhausted, but be 
pretty good, in order to manure tlie roots. Although we do 
not approve of highly manuring the borders of peach-trees 
upon the open walls, still we think it necessary to feed such 
as arc artificially forced with more strong food. Peaches do 



5SS 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



not naturally grow under glass, and therefore should be arti- 
ficially planted, pruned, and fed. It is a very common prac- 
tice to dig in a quantity of rotten dung into the borders of 
peach and grape-houses ; we have, however, always used liquid 
manure, and consider it preferable, as it can be applied with- 
out injuring the roots of the trees, and answers all the pur- 
poses of manure in any other form equally well, if not better. 
Towards the second week of the month, the house should be 
covered in, that is, the glasses put on, and the house suffi- 
ciently ventilated during the day, to keep the temperature 
nearly equal to the external air, covering up every night and 
always throughout the day, when there is any danger of heavy 
rains or snow\ If the sashes be put on before the foregoing 
operations of pruning and dressing commences, the whole may 
be done more comfortably, and in that case, the rains or snow 
will not wash off either the composition put upon the trees, 
nor wet the flues, which should now be kept as dry as possible. 



FORCING PEACHES IN POTS OR BOXES. 

Peaches and nectarines are well calculated to force in pots 
or boxes, which should be large enough to contain at least one 
cubic foot of mould, and constructed like those recommended 
for cherries. The soil should be both much lighter and richer 
for plants in boxes or pots, than that recommended for the 
peach and nectarine borders, and liquid manure should be 
abundantly supplied to make up, in some measure, for the 
confinement of their roots. When established for one season 
in tubs or pots, they are then fit for being brought into the 
houses for forcing, and if managed as directed for cherries, 
plums, &c., will answer every expectation. The plants should 
be first placed in a temperature equal to that of the green- 
house, and afterwards removed into the peach-house or vinery, 
when the fruit is set. They will require copious supplies of 
water at their roots, and the surface of the mould in the pots 
should be covered with rotten dung, still more to exclude the 
action of air upon their roots, and if the tubs or pots be co- 
vered with ropes made of moss or hay, and kept somewhat 
moist, the success will be greater. Trees thus cultivated are 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



589 



sometimes trained to small fan-trellises fixed to the pots, but 
they ^inswer and look much better when trained as dwarf- 
standards, in which form peach-trees always ripen their fruit 
much better than by any mode of training practised. When 
the fruit is nearly ripe, they may be removed to the green- 
house or conservatory, where they will have a good effect, if 
arranged amongst the exotic plants in either compartment. 
Sometimes they are slightly forced, and removed into the open 
air, where they should be partially shaded from the sun for the 
first eight or ten days, and then placed in the flower-garden or 
some sheltered spot till they fully ripen. In this way the fruit 
becomes extremely high-flavored, and of a beautiful color. 
Occasionally, in very warm seasons, the peach and nectarine- 
trees thus treated, if forced very early and plunged out into 
tne open air, will produce a second crop in autumn, similar to 
strawberries or cherries, which have been early forced ; but in 
this case, the trees seldom recover from the effects of the ex- 
periment, which can only be considered as a matter of curiosity, 
and not utility. Fruits thus ripened, in handsome ornamental 
pots, vases, or neat architectural boxes, are often placed upon 
the table, with their ripe fruit upon them, where every one 
can help himself ; in this way they have an agreeable and cu- 
rious effect. 



FORCING CHERRIES. 

Of all fruits accelerated by artificial means, none are so dif- 
ficult to obtain as cherries, they being apt to shed their blos- 
som without setting their fruit. This is sometimes owing to 
imperfection in the parts of fructification, which we often find 
to be the case also with trees in the open air. The most suc- 
cessful forcers of cherries agree in giving as much air as pos- 
sible, and regulating it as nearly as possible to the state of the 
atmosphere at the time the trees are in blossom, and until the 
fruit be set ; thus giving strength to those parts naturally debi- 
litated, and which would be rendered more so if confined in a 
close atmosphere. 

The sorts most generally preferred for forcing are the May- 
duke, and sometimes the Morella. This latter sort is much 



590 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



improved by being forced, and generally is a better bearer than 
any of those which produce their fruit upon artificial spurs ; 
and from the natural character of this tree, (it bearing its fruit 
upon the young wood of last year's growth,) it is capable of a 
mode of training more suitable to the confined space of a 
forcing-house than any other. 

Cherries are sometimes planted permanently in a house, 
and trained to trellises, and often as standards planted in rows 
in the middle of the house ; planting the tallest plants at the 
back, and the dwarfest next the front : others plant trained 
trees, which are trained upon a trellis against the back wall of 
the house, and plant the front border with dwarf-standards. 
In either case, where the trees are to remain permanently, it 
is necessary to procure such as are healthy, and of suflScient 
height to suit the size of the house. Trees that are two or 
three years from the bud are to be preferred. We would, 
however, recommend that the cherry-house be furnished with 
plants grown in portable tubs, pots, or boxes, and that the 
trees be preparing for that purpose a year or two before forcing. 
They should be selected young in the nursery, but where there 
are many of these trees to be forced annually, we would re- 
commend every gardener to propagate his own. When these 
trees are one year from the bud, they should be taken care- 
fully up, and potted in pots of twelve or fourteen inches in 
diameter at top, according to their roots and strength of the 
tree, or in tubs of the same dimensions, either round or square, 
and if so, to be made upon the principle of our orange-tree box, 
(for a figure and description, see Green-house and Conserva- 
tory), so that they can be taken to pieces more conveniently, 
and the trees taken out without injury. After they are planted, 
either in pots or tubs, let them be plunged in a sheltered but 
not shaded quarter of the garden, and regularly supplied with 
water during summer, and the surface covered with rotten 
dung, both to prevent a too rapid evaporation, as well as to 
nourish the trees. They should remain there until the season 
of forcing, v>^hich for cherries is soon enough, to expect much 
return, about the first of January. Such a number should 
then be carefully taken up, and carried into the house, as may 
De either sufficient for the supply required, or to fill the house. 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



.591 



But as figs, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, apricots, and 
plums, may also be introduced into the same house, a portion 
therefore only of the cherries may be taken in at once. They 
should be regularly placed in rows upon the floor of the house, 
which if formed of rich good loam, and forked up, so much the 
better, to allow the roots to penetrate through the holes in the 
bottom of the pots or tubs, which they most probably have 
done already while plunged in the open air. If such be the 
case, care must be taken in removing them, so as to injure 
those roots as little as possible. They will strike root into the 
floor of the house, and will derive a considerable share ot 
nourishment therefrom. To facilitate this, the egress of the 
roots, the bottoms of the tubs or pots should be perforated with 
many holes, proportionably to their size, and in planting them 
not over drained, preferring, instead of broken pieces of pots, 
pieces of fresh turf, which will admit of a sufficient degree of 
filtration, and at the same time not impede the roots in their 
progress through the holes. Such as are intended to remain 
for more than one season preparing in the tubs, should be 
taken up any time before the beginning of the spring, subse- 
quently to their pruning, and such roots as may have pene- 
trated through into the natural soil cut carefully off'. This will 
not injure the growth of the trees, but rather throw them into 
a state of greater fruitfulness. When such a number of trees 
as may be deemed sufficient are placed in the cherry-house, 
draw a little of the mould of the floor of the house round 
them, or plunge them less or more into the border, but not 
too deep ; stir up the surface of the mould in the boxes or 
pots, and if no roots appear near the surface, remove a portion 
of it, and supply it with some rich light hazelly loam, and 
mulch each tub or pot with an inch or two of rotten dung, 
which should be frequently replaced. 

The number of trees to be kept in a state of preparation 
should not be less than one hundred, and accordingly as any 
number are removed into the house for forcing, let a like num- 
ber be added to the stock, so as always to keep up a sufficient 
supply. This number need not always be young trees ; many 
of those which have been forced one season, will, it taken 
out of the tubs or boxes and headed down, if in a weak 



592 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



state, their roots dressed, and planted out in a quarter of rich 
light hazelly loam, be, in the course of one year or two at 
most, fit for re-potting; and others, when the forcing has 
not been very early, will be in a good state to force for 
two or more years successively ; but such as do not break 
freely and show symptoms of vigor, should be thrown away. 
The same rule which regards cherries, is also applicable to 
apricots and plums. It is not worth while to keep gooseber- 
ries, currants, and raspberries, after they have borne one crop 
in the cherry- house ; they may be planted out in any part of 
the garden where they may be wanted to fill up vacancies, or 
thrown away altogether, as they are so readily propagated, 
and while young, are much better suited for forcing, than when 
old. In arranging the whole in the house, the cherries, plums, 
and apricots require the most light and air, therefore that 
point should be attended to in their arrangement. The rasp- 
berries and currants will grow well in a little shade ; and the 
gooseberries, from their dwarf habit, may occupy the front 
line, and thus take up little space, and cause no shade. The 
I'aspberries may be placed near the back of the house, between 
the pots or tubs of the other trees, and the currants occupy 
the middle, so as to be partially under the shade of the larger 
trees, but not too much to endanger the setting of their fruit. 
These trees are all to be understood as pruned before brought 
into the forcing-house, upon the principles laid down for trees 
in the open air. 

Supposing the house now to be in readiness for forcing about 
the first of the month, proceed by making fires so moderate for 
the first ten or twelve days, that the thermometer shall not 
exceed 50°, and kept to that temperature throughout the day, 
by admitting a plentiful supply of air ; after that time, increase 
the temperature gradually to 55°, at which keep it, as near as 
possible, during the remainder of the month. If there be 
much sunshine, it may be now allowed to rise as high as 60° 
or 65°, but upon no account allow^ it to pass that temperature. 
Large portions of air should be admitted to bring on vegetation 
regularly, on which depends, in a great measure, the success 
of the crop. In forcing any of the fruits under consideration, 
there is much less danger in having the temperature low than 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



593 



Otherwise. It should be an object of the forcing-gardener at 
all times to allow a few degrees of rise during sunshine, and 
towards the afternoon of each day ; then to throw open the 
lights of the hot-house, to keep the temperature throughout the 
day equal or below that of the night ; yet the following is too 
generally the case : fires are kept up during night, and the 
heated air confined so as to exceed the temperature throughout 
the day, whereas the reverse ought to be the case. The nearer 
we approach to nature in the regulation of most artificial tem- 
peratures, the more likely are we to be successful. 

Plentiful supplies of water should be given to the plants, 
particularly over head, with the garden syringe, and the house 
should be steamed every night, by pouring water upon the 
flues, or by other means, so as to keep up a moist tempera- 
ture, which will gi'eatly promote the swelling and breaking of 
the buds. As the trees begin to break into wood, they should 
be supplied with portions of liquid manure to their roots ; tliere 
is no method of manuring plants in pots so convenient nor so 
effectual. 

Where a regular cherry-house is wanting, we would recom- 
mend a simple structure for the forcing of cherries, apricots, 
plums, and figs. Supposing, as has been directed already in 
planting fruit-trees against walls, that the different sorts of 
fruits have been planted by tliemselves, we would select a por- 
tion of a southern wall, already furnished with trees in a full- 
bearing state, of the sorts wished to be forced, and against one 
or more trees, erect a portable-house or glass-case, which 
if the walls be furnished with flues, or built hollow, can be 
heated sufficiently ; or if they have not been so built, then a 
temporary flue may be introduced through the wall from a fur- 
nace behind, and carried along the surface of the border within 
the house, elevated a few inches above the surface, and made 
to pass through the wall again, and the smoke carried off' by 
means of an upright flue carried up behind, and equal to the 
height of the wall. The rafters which support the sashes 
should be fixed to the top of the wall by means of screw bolts, 
which may remain fixed in the wall, and made to pass through 
the end of each rafter, with a nut to keep them secure ; these 
rafters need not be heavy, as the weight of the sashes will 

4 G 



594 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



chieliy rest upon the wall-plate, which will be supported upon 
blocks or piles driven into the ground at equal distances, say 
one under every other rafter, and the space between the sur- 
face of the ground, and such wall-plate to be boarded closely 
with well-seasoned inch deal ; which deals should be fixed to 
the piles, by means of screws so constructed as to be readily 
taken out, to allow the whole to be taken to pieces when not 
in use. The height of this boarding may be from one to two 
feet, which will elevate the sashes so as to be opposite the best 
part of the wall, as well as to admit of their being occasionally 
taken down to admit air. Should the sashes not be of sufH- 
cient length to reach from this plate to the top of the wall, a 
part of the top of the rafters may be covered with seasoned 
boarding, similar to the front ; but, in the case of this upj">eir 
boarding, it will be necessary to place the boards in an imbri- 
cated manner, to preclude the rain from getting in. The 
sashes need not be more than three or four feet distant from 
the wall at bottom, as all that is necessary to be done to the 
trees can be done by a careful person inside, or from the out- 
side in fine weather. The materials with which such a frame 
as this is composed should be got up in a neat and portable 
manner. The angles at the ends need not be glass, they 
should be boarded up, and at one end a small door for the 
admission of air, as well as for examining the trees, state of 
temperature, &c. Several of such frames as this, or where 
better can be" devised, will be extremely useful in every garden, 
and the sashes may, when not in use for such purposes, be 
employed in ripening melons, cucumbers, &c. : and in autumn 
such frames will be of much use in accelerating the ripening of 
late peaches, grapes, &c., upon the walls, and for preserving 
grapes, that may have ripened, for a great length of time. The 
many usefid purposes for which portable structures or glass- 
cases may be used are not yet sufiiciently appreciated, we ex- 
pect to see the time when they will be found in every garden. 

Tn glass-cases, similar to these, cherries have been success- 
fully forced by Mr. Torbron, one of the best practical forcing- 
gardeners of the present day. The temperature and general 
management of the trees in them will be exactly such as is 
already laid down, only, if it be necessary to intredncc the 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



595 



heat by means of flues built upon the surface of the border 
within the fi*ame, the border should be covered with rotten 
dung two or three inches thick, and be carefully supplied witth 
water, to keep it in a proper state of moisture ; and the border 
in front of the glass-case should also be covered with rotten 
dung, and occasionally watered, but this watering of the ex- 
ternal border will depend upon the state of the weather : care 
must be taken not to be too profuse of water until the fruit be 
fairly set, as it is apt to drop ; indeed, we are never sure of a 
crop of cherries until the stones are formed in the fruit. If a 
case, such as this, be placed over a space of wall occupied with 
plums, and another over a space occupied with apricots, and 
another of figs, we may expect, under ordinary good manage- 
ment, a plentiful crop of all these delicate fruits at an early 
season, and at much less expense, than by any other means 
whatsoever. The same trees may or may not be forced the 
succeeding year ; if they be allowed a year to rest, their future 
crops will be benefited ; but if forced every year will become 
habituated to the change of season as it were, and will, under 
ordinary good management, continue fit for forcing for several 
years. Since the beneficial effects of heating by hot water, 
as recommended by W. Atkinson, Esq., have been acknow- 
ledged, portable structures may be readily heated, by a com- 
plete set of portable hot-water apparatus, which may be re- 
moved annually at no great expense, and applied to heat that 
part of the wall intended to be forced ; and for forcing cherries 
we would say, that it is the best mode of heating that can be 
applied, from its giving out its heat more gradually, and the 
almost impossibility of over-heating the air of the structure. 

The following remarks are from the practice of Mr. Flintel- 
mann, gardener to the King of Prussia, upon forcing cherries. 
The Double May is the sort chosen, and is grafted upon the 
common wild-cherry of the woods. They are planted in good 
garden-mould, with a mixture of vegetable mould, and are 
one year establishing previous to being forced. During this 
time they are placed in a sheltered situation, and fully exposed 
to the sun; during winter their roots arc protected from frosts 
by being covered with litter. 



596 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



The following interesting mode of treatment is practised, 
for the purpose of inducing in the trees a disposition to form 
blossom-buds. The spring subsequent to their being planted, 
the blossom-buds are taken off as they appear, and by the end 
of June, or beginning of July, such shoots as have formed 
have their points taken off, leaving not more than six buds ; 
these buds, by this practice, become all blossom-buds. 

The exposing them to a degree of cold, previous to their 
being taken in to force, equal to fourteen degrees is considered 
a leading feature in this practice, as well as thinning out the 
flower-buds to a very considerable extent, often to three-fifths 
of their M'hole number. We may here observe, that the thin- 
ning of the blossom-buds is much too little attended to by 
English forcing-gardeners, and it is not going too far to say, 
that those upon the open walls should also be considerably 
thinned. In the Prussian royal gardens, the temperature 
commences at or about 46 degrees, and during their growth, the 
trees are frequently sprinkled with water, rendered moderately 
warm. The roots also are watered with warm water, of a 
temperature equal to that of water when boiled, mixed with an 
equal quantity of cold. As soon as the plants are placed in 
the cherry-house, they are well soaked with this water, which 
watering is continued till within fourteen days of their coming 
into bloom. The roots, previous to their being brought into 
the forcing-house, are kept perfectly dry for some time. When 
the trees are coming into blossom, the watering over head 
is suspended, but the stems and principal branches are kept 
moist by rubbing them two or three times a-day with a wet 
brush. While the trees are in blossom, the temperature is 
gradually raised to 67 degrees. Air is freely admitted, and 
during bright sunshine, the houses are shaded. In admitting 
air during cold and windy weather, pieces of gauze are placed 
over the parts opened, to break the keenness of the air. The 
temperature of the house is kept steadily between 544 and 65| 
degrees, from the time the fruit sets until it has considerably 
swelled previous to stoning ; but while stoning, it is lo .v-red 
to 59 degrees for two or three weeks during this crisis. Shading 
is particularly attended to during sunshine, a practice that 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



597 



would be rather novel in this country, but probably done from 
a view to lengthen the period of the flowers remaining in per- 
fection, and thus giving a greater chance for the office of im- 
pregnation being performed, which we suspect is not suffi- 
ciently attended to with us, particularly in the early forcing of 
stone fruits. We have often observed, that when very hot 
days occurred while the cherry-trees are in blossom, even on 
the open walls, that the blossom soon fell and a light crop 
followed, and this too in a particular degree, when the cherry- 
trees were unusually covered with bloom. These two points 
are leading features in Mr. Flintelmann's practice, namely, 
thinning the blossom-buds, and shading during their expanded 
state, both of which undoubtedly tend to give additional 
strength to the parts of fructification of those flowers, which 
are left. During the period that the fruit begins to swell after 
stoning, till they are ripe, the temperature is raised to 65 
degrees, and during this period, both air and sunshine are freely 
admitted, to color and flavor the fruit. The same intelligent 
foreigner has successfully used rotten saw-dust, or chopped 
moss, to which he adds some unburnt lime pounded, as a pre- 
paration in which to plant his trees intended for forcing. Saw- 
dust we are not aware has ever been used in this country as a 
matter in which to plant fruit-bearing trees, neither has it, as 
far as we know, even entered into compositions for that pur- 
pose, being considered chemically as mere woody fibre ; little 
good has been expected from it as a manure, or affording food 
for plants. 

Moss has been brought into notice by Mr. Street, in a com- 
munication to the Hort. Soc. and Gard. Mag., as " possessing 
a power to some extent of regulating temperature, more than 
most kinds of earth ; that is, it resists extreme heat and ex- 
treme cold, and is not apt to lose all moisture suddenly, while 
it discharges a superfluity of moisture. It does not act like 
some rich earths, giving out all its virtues at first, but becomes 
gradually richer in decay, when a fresh supply may be added 
in the same space of pot room." Those interested in this cu- 
rious experiment should consult the analysis of woody fibre 
by Gay Lussac and Tlienard. 



598 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



FORCING FIGS. 

Few houses are built expressly for forcing this fruit. They 
are generally forced in the cherry-house, or planted upon the 
back walls of vineries or peach-houses, and trained in the fan 
manner to the wall, or more generally to a trelUs ; but as figs, 
under all circumstances, thrive better as standards than other- 
wise, they are also found to succeed better as such in forcing- 
houses, and to succeed pretty well if planted in the middle 
of vineries, as dwarf-standards, under the shade of the vines, 
and in this case often ripen both their spring and autumn crops. 
We would consider it the most eligible method to have them 
in boxes, or large pots, as by this means, they could be re- 
moved at pleasure to the most convenient situations in the 
houses. But where there is the convenience of a cherry-house, 
it will answer equally well for both plums and figs, and a house 
of ordinary dimensions will, under good management, afford 
enough of all these fruits for a large family. 

Figs, in whatever situation, are very subject to be attacked with 
the red spider. Care must be taken to use the garden-engine, 
or Reid's syringe, with force upon the foliage, and when the 
fruit begins to ripen, as it would be detrimental to the flavor 
of the figs to be much watered, recourse must be tlien had to 
a painter's brush, with which to brush the leaves, but this 
must be carefully done, as the leaves of the fig, like those of 
the vine and melon, are exti'emely delicate in their young state, 
upon which the spider is most likely to commit its ravages. 
When the leaves become older, and of course more robust, less 
care is necessary. Few other insects annoy the fig, except the 
coccus or scaly insect, which will do little injury to the trees, 
and may be rubbed off with the finger, or left on till the fall 
of the leaves, and then washed off with soap and water. The 
red spider may also be suppressed by sprinkling the flues, 
when they are pretty hot, with flour of brimstone, or a little 
of it may be sprinkled on the leaves with good effect. 

FORCING CUCUMBERS AND MELONS. 

The production of these fruits at an early season of the yeai 
is an object of considerable emulation amongst gardeners, and 



Jan.] THE FORCING GARDEN. 591^ 

many contrive to cultivate the former of them all the year 
round. As their general management is so nearly alike, we 
will continue to detail their culture under the same head. The 
beginning of this month is a very good time to commence the 
rearing of these plants for an early crop, but for general pur- 
poses, the first of February, or even the first of Marcli, will 
be more suitable. It has been observed by a practical writer 
upon this subject, that beginning before the first of this month 
is striving hard against the stream to little purpose. If pre- 
parations were made the end of December, or the first week in 
J anuary, so as to sow the seeds by the second or third week in 
the month, the success will be generally greater than by sowing 
a month, or even six weeks earlier. But when cucumbers are 
particularly wanted by a family during all the winter months, 
then it is much better to cultivate them in large pots or boxes 
in the pine-stove, or else in a separate department, in which 
French beans, strawberries, &c., may also be grown with 
tolerable success during the whole of the winter ; but under 
common frames or pits, heated only by means of fermenting 
dung, the chance of success will be precarious. Cucumbers 
and melons are forced in a variety of ways ; some gardeners 
preferring common hot-beds, others dung-pits in their difierent 
modifications, and not a few have of late years grown them in 
pits heated by steam. 

Many varieties of pits have been recommended in which 
to grow these plants, that of M'Phail is amongst the most 
ancient, and has been in very general use, and may be described 
as consisting of two parts; the frame (a a) and lights (/>), 



GOO 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



which are of wood, and differing notning from those in com- 
mon use for growing these fruits ; in the second part is the 





basement {c c c c d), on which the 
frame is placed, which are flues of 
brick-work, having the side or outer 
walls built open, as shown in the 
section, &c. ; round these perforated 
walls, linings of hot dung, or dung 
and leaves are placed, the heat of 
which enters the flues, and heats 
the mould {c c c) in which the plants 
grow. The chief advantages of this 
pit are, that the dung requires no 
preparation before using, and con- 
sequently none of the heat is lost, 
whereas in most other pits, the dung 
requires to be considerably fermented 
before it can be with safety used, 
for fear of injuring the plants by 
overheats, or the admission of rank 
steam, neither of which can be the 
case where this pit is used. It may, 
however, be objected to, on account 
of the first expense in the erection, 
and the greater quantity of dung re- 
quired to produce a sufficient heat, 
owing to its having to find its way 
through the sides and covers of the 
flues before it can reach the mould 
in which the plants grow. But where 
neatness and order are looked to, 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



GOl 




0€ 



pits of any sort are preferable to dung beds, and this one, if 
partially sunk under the ground-surface, or surrounded with a 
neat wall as high as the perforations in the side walls, will 
have a neat and respectable appearance. 

The Edmonstone pit is calculated either for the cultivation 
of melons, cucumbers, or young pines, and may be understood 
by a glance at the accompanying sketch. Its length is eighteen 

and a half feet, and six 
feet in breadth; the 
height of the back wall 
is five feet, and that of 
the front one, three feet 
nine inches. The heat 
is supplied by linings of 
eg J .| hot dung, which sur- 

round the pit three feet 
deep and two feet three 
inches broad, and is 
separated from the sur- 
rounding ground by a 
nine-inch wall as high 
as the ground-surface, 
which wall is finished 
with a course of hewn 
stone on the top. The 
linings are covered with 
a wooden cover, which 
is sujiported by the 
above wall and front 
wall of the pit, and 
which prevents the 
dung of the linings from 
being chilled by rain 
or cold, and completely 
hides all that is so of- 
fensive to the eye in 
ordinary hot-beas and pits where the lining is exposed. This 
pit is in very general use in Scotland, and is described in a 
communication in the CaL xlort. Trans. To these may be 

4' H 




G02 THE PRACTICAL GARDENEU. [Ja?I, 

added the early and late forcing-pits, invented and much 
used hy W. Atkinson, Esq., and which are intended for general 
purposes, either for growing young pines, melons, cucum- 
bers, or forcing flowers, strawberries, &c. The latter will 
require no farther description than that of the engraving, which 
is in itself sufficiently clear, but the former differing in a 
material point, will require a little explanation. 

The danger often attending the admission of rank steam 
into forcing-pits led to the invention of the accompanying one, 
and it has been found in practice to answer every expectation. 
This pit is sunk under the gi'ound-level, as shown both in the 
section and elevation, and is heated by linings applied in the 
usual way round the sides and ends. The heated air enters 
through the back-wall between the open courses of brick-work, 
but the steam is prevented from entering, at the same time, 
farther than the cavity (C, See Plate), which is formed by 
placing large slates parallel with the walls, and a few inches 
from them. The heat from the front lining enters the front 
wall, which is composed of brick pillars, the spaces between 
them being filled with a large slate, through which sufficient 
heat penetrates, while the rank and noxious steam is kept out. 
This heat is intended to warm the atmosphere of the pit, and 
finds its way into it through the cavity (c/), which is left open 
at top. In the process of filling the body of the pit, some- 
times mould, or other matter, may fall into the open cavity (d), 
but this is easily got out by introducing a narrow hoe at the 
ends, where a provision is made for that purpose, by taking 
out the moveable stone or tile at (B). The advantage of this 
pit is manifest: like those of M'Phail, rank dung may be 
safely used, but it has this important advantage over such pits, 
that a much less quantity of dung is required to heat them. 
We have seen this pit in operation, and nothing could answer 
the purpose better for which it was intended. Like the pine- 
pits recommended by Mr. Aiton, this pit also is furnished with 
a gutter in front at (E), for preventing the water falling into 
the front linings, and which, without such a provision, would 
chill the heat in them, and in continued wet weather render it 
almost impossible to keep up the required temperature. 



Jan,"] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



G03 



The following novel method of obtaining a crop of early 
cucumbers, fit to cut in January, is communicated by Mr. J. 
Reed, of Bristol, in the Gard. Mag. ; and to those who have 
the opportunity, it certainly merits a trial : ''On or about the 
2()th of September, cucumber seeds, of an approved or known 
sort, were sown on a moderate hot-bed in the open air, and 
treated in the usual manner till they were ready to ridge out. 
This generally happened about the beginning of November, 
at which time the shoots of the vines, in an ordinary vinery, 
were withdrawn from the house, and a dung-bed formed on 
the floor in the usual way. After placing the frame and mould 
on the bed, it may be left without the lights till the rank 
steam has passed off. After this, the plants being placed in 
the hills, and the sashes put on, the following are the leading 
features of management during winter. Make fires in the 
evening, so as to warm the air of the house to from 56° to 60°, 
and in very severe frosts it may be raised to 70°. In the 
mornings of the coldest weather and shortest days, make a 
Btrong fire, so as to raise the heat to nearly 70° when the 
house is shut up. About eight o'clock, and from that time to 
half past nine, give plenty of fresh air, by opening the front 
sashes and top-lights, after which, and during the remainder 
of the day, give plenty of air to the cucumbers, by tiltmg the 
Bashes in the usual way. In mild weather, and during sun- 
shine, the lights may be taken entirely off the cucumbers for 
some hours each day ; and immediately after forming new 
linings, the top-lights may be taken down a little all night, to 
permit the escape of any rank steam. The advantage of this 
mode of growing cucumbers during winter, is the comparative 
certainty of an early and good crop at one-third of the trouble 
and expense of the common method out of doors. The ex- 
pense is lessened by no covering up being required, and by all 
the labor attending the renewal of linings, &c. &c., admitting 
of being done in wet weather. The vines may be introduced 
in the beginning of March, (a very usual time of commencing 
forcing for a regular crop,) and will break regularly in conse- 
quence of the genial steam of the dung. In April, the beds 
may be removed, as by that time the shade of the vines will 



Got 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



be too rauch for the cucumbers, and by that time plenty of 
cucumbers will be in use from the beds out of doors." 

We would suggest the necessity of keeping the glass, botli 
of the roof of the house and the sashes of the frame, as clean 
as possible, as the rays of light will have to pass through 
both. The nearer that the plants can be kept to the roof of 
the house, the more light will they enjoy, and be less liable 
to be drawn up weakly, the only objection we see to the pro- 
cess. 

In preparing to cultivate cucumbers and melons, either upon 
beds composed of dung only, or of fagots to be heated by 
means of dung-linings, it will be necessary, in the first place, 
to prepare dung wherewith to form a seed-bed. For this pur- 
pose, such a quantity of good fresh dung should be procured 
as will be sufficient, after being well fermented, to form a bed 
about five or six feet wide, and three and a half or four feet 
long, and about five feet high at the back, and four at the 
fi-ont, upon which to place a one-light frame, which will be 
sufficient for the purpose of rearing seedling cucumbers and 
melons for any ordinary family. The dung for this purpose 
should be under the process of fermentation for a sufficient" 
time to allow the fiery heat and rank steam to be fairly ex- 
hausted, during which time, it should be frequently turned 
over, and well mixed at each turning, so that the whole body 
of dung will heat equally when put up into the bed ; this is of 
much consequence, as if not done before the beds are made 
and the seeds sown, it cannot be done afterwards, indepen- 
dently of which, the heat will be more permanent and equal. 
The lenfjth of time that the d\in" should be thus in a state of 
preparation, must be determined by the state of the weather, 
and the quality of the dung. In building the seed-bed, let 
the dung be well shaken with a fork, and regularly laid up 
one course above another, and well beaten down with the back 
of the fork, but not trodden with the feet. When it is of suf- 
ficient height, place the fi*ame upon it, and put on the glass, 
which may be covered up wnth mats, either single or double, 
which will help to draw up the heat. When this is suffi- 
ciently up, level the surface of the bed, and to guard against 



Jav.\ 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



605 



accidents, from too much heat or noxious steam, let the whole 
surface be turfed over, the turfs being laid with the grassy side 
undermost, and beaten well with a spade or tuif-beater, to 
render the joints as close as possible. Then cover the whole 
with any light mould, or rotten tan, to the thickness of six 
or eight inches, upon which to place the pots with the seeds. 
This covering should be as dry as possible, as it is much easier 
at this time to v/ater, if too dry, than to render it dry, if too 
wet, the sun at this season having little power to evaporate any 
superabundant moisture. The seeds may be sown in small 
pots, or shallow pans, filled with rich light mould, and covered 
to the depth of two inches, and placed upon the surface of the 
bed. As the heat rises, the pots or pans may be either plunged 
deeper, or still kept upon the surface, accordingly as the heat 
of the bed may be more or less strong. The bed, from this 
time forward, must be regularly covered every night with mats, 
either single or double, according to the state of the weather 
and the heat of the bed. No air need be admitted, until the 
heat in the bed begins to rise and the steam begins to appear ; 
but, upon the appearance of steam, and the young leaves of 
the plants, care must be taken to tilt up one end of the sash, 
less or more, to allow the steam to pass freely oif ; this must 
not only be attended to during the day, but during the night 
also. If the air be very frosty, or the winds cold, then the 
ends of the mats should be allowed to hang over the opening, 
that the air may be broken, and not allowed to blow with 
force upon the tender plants. Throughout the day, when the 
light is tilted up for the admission of air, a thin piece of mat 
should be hung over the opening, for the wind to pass through 
before reaching the plants. In covering up at night, care should 
be taken not to allow the ends of the mats to hang over the 
sides of the frame, particularly after the linings may have 
been applied, for when this is not attended to, it often occurs 
that the noxious steam from the dung will be so confined that 
it cannot escape, and be thereby conveyed into the frames, and 
destroy the plants. 

The temperature of the seed-bed should be kept up to from 
G5° to 75^, but a few degrees of diflerence are not of that im- 
portance which is usually attached to it ; indeed, the plants will 



l>UO rur. PRACTICAL GARDKNER. [.fufl. 

not hurt in any temperature varying from GO^ to 80°, providctl 
the transitions from both extremes do not occur too frequently, 
and at the same time too suddenly. After the seeds are sown, 
the bed should be carefully watched, for fear of the mice, which 
will begin to abound in the frame-ground about this season, 
and, if not kept down, w ill be very destructive, both to melon 
and cucumber-plants. When the seeds are sown, cover each 
pan or pot with pieces of glass, or a bell-glass, taking care to 
remove it as soon as the young leaves begin to expand. As 
the plants appear above ground, if the mould in the pots 
appear to be dry, give them a little water that has stood for 
some hours in the bed, or which has been brought to a tem- 
perature equal to that of the bed, or nearly so ; but be careful 
not to give much at a time. If the heat in the bed becomes 
too violent, then, if the pots or pans have been partly or 
wholly plunged, draw them up a little, or take them up alto- 
gether, and stand them upon the surface until the bed declines 
in heat ; without this precaution, the roots of the plants would 
De liable to be destroyed by too much heat. As the plants 
begin to grow, admit air in a sufficient quantity, at all times, 
into the bed, to guard against drawing the plants up weakly, 
and remove the mats as soon after sun-rise in the morning as 
possible, to give the plants as much of its invigorating influ- 
ence as possible. 

If the bed be not placed in a situation extremely well shel- 
tered against cutting winds, it will be necessary to protect the 
linings with reed-mats, hurdles thatched with straw, or bean- 
haulm, or such like materials ; for, when the wind is allowed 
to blow violently against the bed, the heat can never be de- 
pended upon, and will never be uniform. Sometimes a fine 
steady heat will be blown out of a bed of such small dimen- 
sions in a few hours; and, if not blown out altogether, will 
be blown from one corner to another, consequently one j\art 
will be too cold, while another is too hot, and the plants will 
be all endangered, and perhaps some, if not all, totally de- 
stroyed. In building a seed-bed at this season, it is advisable 
to make it at least a foot or fifteen inches larger than the 
frame; this allowance can be readily cut off, when it is found 
necessary to apply linings; and if, in forming the bottom of 



Jan.] THE FORCING GARDEN. f>07 

the bed, there be laid a toot or eighteen inches of branches or 
fagots under the dung, it will render the bed less liable to be 
injured by damp. 

When the plants are a little advanced, with the seed-leaves 
about half an inch broad, which they should be in live or six 
days after their first appearance, they are then fit for being 
transplanted into nursing-pots, to acquire sufficient strength to 
be afterwards planted out on the bed where they are intended 
to produce their fruit. 

Before proceeding to plant them into nursing-pots, it will be 
necessary to have the pots and a sufficient quantity of rich 
dry light mould, chiefly decomposed dung from an old hot- 
bed, and vegetable mould well decomposed, carried the day 
before it is to be used into the frame, that the whole may be 
of equal temperature, for the young plants to experience as 
slight a check as possible in their removal from the seed-pot 
to that of the nursing or succession one, which pots should be 
about three and a half or four inches diameter at top, and as 
much in depth. Let the pots be filled about one-half with the 
earth, then turn the young plants carefully out of the seed-pot, 
breaking the fibres as little as possible. Place three plants in 
each pot close to the sides, so that their young leaves may 
rest upon the top of the pot, then cover their roots with the 
mould, carefully rubbing it fine with the hands, and filling 
the pots nearly up to the brim. The deeper the young plants 
are placed in the pots now, the better; for they will push 
out roots all the way up the stem fi-om the original roots, as 
far as the surface of the mould in the pot. The mould should 
be dry, and, in filling it in, not by any means pressed, but put 
in quite loose, and the whole should have a gentle watering 
over-head with a fine-rose watering-pot, which should be con- 
stantly kept in the frames at this season full of water, which 
should be of a temperature, as near as can be, to that of the 
atmosphere of the frame. This being done, stir up the sur- 
face of the bed and replace the pots, either plunged or half- 
plunged, according to the state of the heat in the bed. Keep 
up now a brisk heat, by means of linings round the sides of 
the bed, so that the temperature within the bed may be kept 
to about 60° or 65° in the night, and a few degrees of a rise 



608 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



in sunshine. The great objects to guard against at this season, 
are too much rank steam, and an excess either of heat or cold. 
Air should be admitted as freely as the weather will permit, 
that the plants may not be d^a^m up too weakly. The bed 
should not only be examined morning and evening, but also 
once or twice throughout the day, until the plants get a little 
stronger ; if the roots be in danger of being destroyed by too 
much heat, take the pots up a little ; and if too cold, plunge 
them a little deeper into the bed. As soon as the first seeds 
are above ground, a few more should be sown as a substitute 
in case of accidents, and this second sowing should also be 
succeeded with a third, and so on. In ten or twelve days 
after this seed-bed is put up, it is probable that the heat will 
be beginning to decline ; this should be watched for, and, upon 
the least appearance of it, a lining of well-fermented dung 
should be applied to one or more sides of the bed, as may be 
judged necessary ; this lining should be protected in the same 
manner as has been directed for the bed, by covering it round 
with reed-mats, long littery dung, or bean-haulm, which will 
not only keep the bed and lining perfectly dry, but will also 
prevent the wind from blowing the heat out of it. The lining 
thus put round, should be from fifteen to eighteen inches thick, 
and a few inches above the bottom of the frame. It should 
not, however, be built either too thick or too high at this 
time, lest it throw too much heat suddenly into the bed, and 
thereby endanger the plants. The inside should be examined, 
and a little fresh dry mould laid all round the inside of the 
frame, to prevent the admission of too much steam ; for although 
a certain portion of steam is necessary for the welfare of the 
plants, so as to keep up a moist warm atmosphere, yet too 
much would be attended with danger ; upon examining the bed 
in the morning, a sufficient quantity of steam should be found 
to appear like a fine dew all over the plants, and hanging in 
beads upon the under side of the leaves. In ten or twelve 
days after the first lining is applied, it may be necessary to 
apply it to the remaining sides, which will revive the heat of 
the whole, and if covered over also with any dry littery matter, 
to resist the cold cutting winds, and cold rains or snow, it will 
keep up a sufficient heat for some time longer. 



JfOl.] THE /OliCING GARDEN* GOO 

By the end of this month the plants will be fairly established 
in their nursing-pots, that is, if the seed were sown about the 
first of the month. As soon as they have formed two rough 
leaves, the bud that is to produce the shoots or runners will 
appear between the two leaves ; this embryo shoot should be 
taken out, either with the point of a knife, or carefully pinched 
out with the finger and thumb, but so as not to injure the 
leaves of the plants. This shortening, or stopping, as it is 
called, will render the plants more stocky and strc^ng, and will 
cause the emission of a number of other shoots, which will be 
more prolific; and they in their turns, when stopped, will not 
fail to show plenty of fruit; whereas if this first shoot were 
allowed to proceed without stopping, they would probably run 
two or three feet without showing fruit, and would be both 
sterile and slender. Some gardeners, however, consider this 
shortening or stopping the plants in this young state to be a 
matter of little consequwice, and allow them to run to three 
or four joints before they stop them. 



FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 

Strawberries are brought to early perfection in every de- 
scription of forcing-house, pit, or frame, with more or less 
success, which, in a great measure, depends upon the plants 
being properly prepared before bringing into the house, of pro- 
per sorts, upon the soil being suitable, and during their growth 
being bountifully supplied both with air and water ; the latter 
in perhaps more abundance than for almost any other plant 
which we force. Many sorts of strawberries force well, but 
the Alpines, Bath Scarlet, Grove End, Scarlet, Roseberry, and 
Common Scarlets succeed best, and are most generally chosen 
for that purpose. 

Young plants, that is, runners of the preceding year, are 
almost universally preferred, and are potted in April, two or 
three plants in a pot of eight inches diameter, and six inches 
deep. These are plunged in the earth all summer, giving 
them plenty of water and keeping them clear of weeds, where 
ihey remain till taken into the forcing-house or pit. But the 
runners of the same year, taken off in Julv, and i)lantcd in 

•11 



GIO Tiir piiArTicAL gardknkr. [Jan, 

pold oi' ihc abuvc iliinensions, are found often to succeed well; 
these latter should be plunged in the open borders up to the 
biini, being shaded after planting for a few days, till they 
have struck root, and afterwards watered as they may require 
till autumn, when the pots are partially covered with rotten 
tan, or long litter, to prevent the pots fiom being broken by 
the expansion of the damp mould within them ; they are thus 
left till spring, when the covering is removed, and the suiface 
of the pots is stirred up ; part of the mould is also removed, and 
replaced with some very rich loam, highly manured ; the ground 
also amonf( the pots is stirred up to clear it of weeds. During 
summer, the flowers, as they appear, are carefully cut away 
with a pair of finely pointed scissars, as soon as they appear to 
be forming, this is practised as long as they continue to . p- 
pear ; the pots, and ground round them, being kept clear of 
weeds and frequently watered. Here they remain till they are 
wanted to remove into the house or frame. For a large family, 
not less than one thousand pots will be required to be always 
in a state of preparation, for the purpose of keeping up the 
supply ; and, when taken in, i^ach as are of a weakly appear- 
ance should be rejected. 

Alpines are found to succeed best when raised from seed 
sown in January, (or before,) in boxes or large pans, placed 
in a mild heat. In spring they are gradually hardened, and 
are potted off in May, in pots of the same size as those above- 
mentioned, placing three or four plants in each. During sum- 
mer, they are kept in a cool and shaded situation, plunged up 
to the brim or nearly so, and, if the weather be dry, are sup- 
plied with water, and sometimes with liquid manure, which is 
applied to the surfice of the pots, taking care not to spill any 
upon the foliage. They are, likewise, kept clear of weeds, and 
in October, when they are coming into flower, they are put 
under shelter. Cold frames, if such can be spared for them, 
are preferable to any thing else ; placing the pots closely toge- 
ther, to occupy as little space as possible, and covering the 
floor on which they stand with coal ashes, to prevent, as much 
as possible, the entrance of worms. During their stay in tliis 
situation, if they be once or twice watered with lime-water, 
the worms will be destroyed. They are to remain here tiU 



Jan.] THE FORCING GARDEN. Gl 1 

required to be removed into the forcing-house or pit. Sucii as 
are the earliest and fullest in flower, should be removed in 
November into a slight hot-bed prepared for them, and if they 
remain here till their fruit be set, they may be removed into 
the pine-stove or succession-house, and placed upon shelves 
erected as near to the glass as possible. These shelves are 
generally suspended by wires, or slight brackets of iron, fixed 
into the under side of the rafters of the house, directly above 
the footpath, or such parts of the house, as the water spilt in 
watering the strawberries will not fall to injure the pines. 
Each pot is placed in a pan, both to prevent an unnecessary 
loss of water, as well as to keep the roots moist and cool ; 
strawberries, by this means, may be had during the winter 
months with tolerably good success. 

But for a more general crop of this esteemed fruit, the be- 
ginning of January ; the beginning and middle of February ; 
the beginning, middle, and end of March are much the best 
seasons for beginning to force. At these seasons, the plants 
in pots still remaining in the open borders, covered with litter, 
rotten tan, or any preferable substitute, and such Alpines as 
still remain in the cold frames, particularly such of them as 
have not come into bloom, or such as have had their flowers 
cut out of them, should now be brought in, in regular rota- 
tion. The number of pots introduced at once being in pro- 
portion to the stock potted, or the demand for the fruit. 

The pots should be well cleaned, and all dead or decayed 
leaves removed ; the surface-mould in the pot5 carefully stirred 
up, and a part removed, the pots should then be filled up with 
rich yellow fresh loam, well manured with rotten dung. Place 
each pot in a pan, and give them a little water, if at all dry ; 
and once or twice during their period of forcing, give them 
a watering with the drainings of the dunghill, or water in 
which sheep or cows' dung has been steeped. For the general 
crops of strawberries to be forced, if there be the convenience 
of frames and dung, they will be much improved by being 
kept in them till the fruit be set ; but if there be the conve- 
nience of a cherry-house, or peach-house, beginnhig to be 
forced, a few weeks in either of them will be a good situation 
for them. Indeed, the temperature of the cherry-house is the 



612 



TIIF PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



most natural for the strawberry, and in such a temperature 
the crops will be more certain. They may be removed to 
tlie pine-stove to ripen oti', and thereby be improved in flavor, 
at the same time that they make way for a succession crop 
being brought into the cherry or peach-house. They may be 
also successfully forced in a flucd pit, or in a pit warmed by 
external linings of dung, or dung and leaves, or they may be 
grown well in common frames heated by the same means, only, 
in this latter case, they are attended with more trouble. Where 
they are to be extensively forced, a range of pits will be found 
the most convenient and suitable place, as they can then Ix? 
plunged into a mild bottom-heat, which, if not too warm, will 
keep both an equality of temperature and moisture round their 
roots, which is of the utmost consequence to all plants of 
rapid growth in pots. In such compartments, a regular tem- 
perature can be kept up, varying from 50° to 55°, and not to 
exceed 60^ until the fruit be fully set ; after that, the tempera- 
ture may be allowed to rise gi*adually to 65° and 70°. During 
the growth of these plants, while in blossom, and while swelling 
their fruit, an abundance of water should be given them, and 
continued until swelled to their full size ; after which, it should 
be gradually withheld, so as not to injure the flavor of the 
fruit ; but this change of moisture, like that of temperature, 
should not be suddenly efl'ected, but withdrawn by degrees. 
Nothing is so injurious as those sudden changes of tempera- 
ture and moisture, which we see so frequently practised. 

In whatever way strawberries are forced, it is of material 
consequence to them, that they have air admitted to them in 
large portions, particularly while in flower and while the fruit 
is setting. Hence the advantage of pits for them, where they 
can be managed, as far as regards this important object, as well 
as suited with a temperature to their resj>ective stages of growth. 
Strawberries, unlike most other perennial plants, will not force 
well above one season ; but this is an object of little conse- 
quence, the means of always procuring young plants being 
so easily attained ; and, as such is the case, a fresh supply should 
be prepared annually. 

When the crops are gathered of those brought earliest into 
fruit, they should be thrown aw.iy, but such as have been forced 



Jan.] 



THE lOnCING GARDEN. 



613 



into fruit at a more reasonable season, should, after the crop 
is gathored, be carefully taken out of the pots, and plunged, 
with their ball entire about their roots, in a sheltered border, 
where they will, particularly the Roseberry, Grove End, and 
common Scarlet, produce a good crop in the September follow- 
ing, when other strawberries are scarce. The rains of the 
latter end of July, and beginning of August, are extremely 
favorable for the gi'owth of the fruit, which cannot fail to be 
an acceptable addition to the Alpine, which is the only straw- 
berry in fruit at that time. Where provision has not been 
made, by potting a sufficient number of young plants, then re- 
course must be had to such as are older. In this case, young 
plants established in the open ground, during the previous 
season, may be carefully taken up in autumn with good balls, 
and potted in pots of dimensions suitable to the sizes of the 
plants, and, after being well watered, may be kept in reserve 
for removing into the forcing departments when wanted ; but 
in this case, it will be attended with more success, if they be 
not brought into vegetation till March, or, at all events, the 
middle of February. 

To prolong the season of this fruit as much as possible, a 
variety of sorts should be potted at different times, and plunged 
in different situations, and as they begin to show a disposition 
to bloom, should be picked out and removed to temperatures 
agreeably to their habits and state of growth. By such means, 
where there are many forcing departments, this useful fruit may 
be had at all seasons of the year. The Alpines appear best 
suited for a late crop in a cold shaded situation in autumn, and 
are amongst the best for bringing into a state of vegetation 
earliest in the hot-houses or pits. The Scarlets are found to 
bear a greater degree of heat than any other, but do not set 
their fruit so freely in the short and cloudy days of winter as 
the Alpine. 

The soil in which strawberries to be forced seem to thrive 
best, is a strong and very rich loam, well manured with rotten 
dung, and, in potting them, to place two inches of rotten dung 
in the bottom of the pots. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



' Jan* 



FORCING ASPARAGUS. 

Asparagus was one of the first culinary vegetables accele- 
rated by artificial means. The London market was supplied, 
before the middle of the seventeenth century, w ith forced as- 
paragus, at an early period of the year ; and it is still brought 
to Covent Garden market during the winter, in greater per- 
fection than to any other market in the world. It is brought 
to perfection in a variety of w^ays, from the beginning of No- 
vember until it comes in, in the open ground. Asi)aragus re- 
quires a much less degree of temperature to produce it in per- 
fection than almost any other vegetable, and is much sooner 
injured by a strong heat, particularly if attended with much 
steam. In preparing dung, therefore, for forming beds on 
which to place the roots, or for external linings, more than 
ordinary care should be taken to have it well prepared, that is, 
by having it repeatedly turned and fermented, until the greatest 
part of the rancidity of the dung shall have evaporated. 

The most general mode of forcing this esteemed vegetable 
is, by making dung-beds, in the usual way, about three feet 
high, of well-prepared dung. When they are finished, put on 
the frames and lights, such as are generally used for growing 
cucumbers and melons ; in this state the bed should remain till 
such time as it has thoroughly attained a regular heat, and has, 
what is technically called, well sweated itself. When this has 
taken place, level and tread the surface regularly over. If 
there be any apprehension of a violent heat taking place after 
being thus prepared, the surface should be covered with turf 
cut thin, and so placed, with the gi-assy side undermost, that 
the joints may so unite with a slight beating with the back of 
a spade, as to prevent the steam from rising into the bed, 
which w^ould be extremely detrimental to the crop in a state of 
vegetation. However, unless the heat is suspected to become 
too strong, by the dung not being properly prepared previously 
to forming the bed, this covering will be rather detrimcntid to 
the heat that is really necessary, by preventing it from rising, 
and may, in such cases, be dispensed with. The bed thus 
prepared should be planted with the roots, wliich arc gene- 
rally taken fi'om the asparagus-bed in the garden, and, as 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



615 



was directed in the CiiUnary Gardeuy should have been co- 
vered in autumn with Uttery dung, leaves, or similar preven- 
tives, to keep out the frost. 

It is immaterial of what age the roots may be, provided that 
they are strong and vigorous, and have produced a good crop 
of strong shoots the preceding season. Some gardeners lay 
much stress upon the age of the roots, some recommending 
roots of two years' growth and upwards. We have, however, 
found strong healthy roots of thirty years' growth succeed 
equally well with those of four or five years' standing. Cer- 
tainly, roots above four years' growth, are to be preferred to 
those under that age. 

The roots should be carefully taken up, injuring the long 
fleshy fibres as litlle as possible, and removed to the prepared 
bed, which should, previously to the plants being placed upon 
it, be covered with a few inches of dry light sandy earth, no 
matter how poor, rotten tan or loamy sand will answer equally 
well. When this stratum of mould is laid on, and levelled 
over the surface of the bed regularly, begin at one end of the 
bed, and place the roots closely together in regular order, 
keeping the crowns uppermost, and all of them as nearly level 
as possible. A bed of three lights, and of the ordinary di- 
mensions, will require not more than six hundred roots, if 
they be young, but a much less number of old and larger ones 
will fill it; this must depend, however, entirely upon their 
size, older ones, of course being larger, fewer will be required, 
and a frame of the usual size of three lights, will, under ordi- 
nary good management, produce a dish every day for nearly 
three weeks. The roots being thus placed should be covered 
with some finely sifted light dry mould, and sprinkled first thinly 
over them, to allow of its filling up the spaces between the 
roots ; after this th^ should be covered with any light mould 
or rotten tan, to the depth of four or five inches. The bed 
being thus finished, should then be covered with the lights. 
Should the heat become too strong, the glasses may, at any time, 
if fine weather, be taken entirely off during part of the day, 
which will allow the rank heat to escape, and, until the buds 
begin to vegetate, cannot injure the roots ; but this will seldom 
happen, if the dung has been properly prepared before using 



Olf) Tlir: PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

If the heat shouUl not come freely, keep the glasses shut down, 
until it rise and the buds begin to vegetate ; after which air 
sliould be admitted as freely as possible, and, after the buds 
begin to appear above ground, if the weather will permit, they 
should be removed for as long a time as possible each day, or 
as much air given, in less favorable weather, as can be done 
without injuring the shoots with frost, in order to give both 
color and flavor, as well as strength to the shoots ; if this be 
jiot attended to, the shoots will be drawn up weakly, without 
color or flavor. 

On the continent, attempts have been made to blanch the 
shoots of asparagus, to render them more dehcate. Sliould 
this be desirable, the lights may be shaded with mats or other 
means, to give the desired eflect ; but with us, the better they 
are colored at this season, the more they are held in esteem. 
When the buds are sufficiently grown to be fit for use, they 
are to be gathered as recommended for gathering this crop in 
the open air, using every caution not to injure the buds still 
under ground. The mould should be cleared away with the 
finger or knife, and the shoot cut out near its bottom, and the 
mould replaced. It is seldom that asparagus, while forcing in 
dung-beds, requires much water, the natural moisture of the 
steam will be found nearly sufficient. Should the bed appear 
dry, however, a slight watering may be given with a fine-rose 
watjerpot, the water being brought to a temperature nearly 
equal to that of the air in the bed. When the bed heats vio- 
lently, a copious watering should be given and repeated, to 
prevent the roots from being scorched with the heat. 

If the temperature of the ]ied during the night keep to 50°, 
and throughout the day, by the addition of sun-heat, to G0°, 
the heat will be perfectly sufficient; when, however, it fulls 
below 48°, and from that to 45°, linings must be applied. 
Asparagus will grow in a temperature of some degrees higher, 
but unless forced to accelerate the crop, for the purpose of 
answering the demand on a particular day, it will be more 
advisable to keep to the temperature of from 50° to 60*^ 
during the whole process. 

Asparagus is successfully cultivated during winter in pits 
heated by steam, fire, or hot water, made to circulate in 



Jan.] THE FORCING GARDEN. G17 

pipes through the pits, where dung, leaves, or tan, are not 
readily procured, or where the pits are placed contiguous to 
the culinary forcing-houses ; and, where neatness and order are 
attended to, these means will be preferable to dung-beds, as 
from the nature of their materials and structure, they have no 
very inviting appearance when placed out of what has hitherto 
been called the melon-gi'ound, which has generally more the 
appearance of a dung-yard than any other appendage to a well- 
ordered garden. Where economy is an object, and plenty of 
dung to be had, the success will be complete upon such beds 
with little trouble or expense ; but where neatness is more an 
object, any of the other means will answer equally well, under 
the same treatment already laid down for dung-beds, only, from 
the nature of fire-heat by means of hot flues, water must be 
given to the roots in sufficient quantity to keep the mould 
always in a state fit for vegetation ; not that the roots of as- 
paragus, or any other perennial root similar to it, require that 
share of food, which is supposed by some to be derived from 
the mould in which the roots are placed during their period of 
forcing, but to keep it in a state sufficiently moist to promote 
that genial atmosphere, in which almost all plants prefer to 
live, as well as to keep the degree of moisture equal at their 
roots, and not to have them scorched up by the heat of the 
flues. It is seldom necessary, for the production of this vege- 
table, to have recourse to such a degree of heat, as to require 
the flues to be kept hot so long as to give a sufficiency 
of moisture to the atmosphere of the pit, by pouring water 
upon them ; for which reason, the necessity of giving it to the 
mould becomes the more apparent. Pits heated by means of 
steam can be readily steamed, or kept in a moist state, by 
allowing a part of it to escape in the pit, at such times as may 
be deemed necessary ; still it may occur that water may be 
required at their roots also, although in a less degree. The 
pits heated by means of hot water made to circulate through 
them in pipes will answer every purpose of the above, and 
although not yet in general use, will, in all probability, be 
generally adopted in all forcing-gardens, particularly in pits 
for the acceleration and maturation of fruits, culinary vege- 

4 k 



(jl8 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan, 

tables and flowers, as they are proved to answer every purpose 
of steam, without the expense of erection or after-keeping. 

Asparagus may be cuUivated upon beds formed of fagots, 
heath, or any like material, and heated by means of external 
linings of hot dung; in such cases, there will be a material 
saving of dung, as one bed of fiigots will produce two or three 
crops in one season. As soon as one crop is cut, clear off the 
old roots and mould, and throw them away, they are consi- 
dered as useless, no leaves being allowed to form, of course 
no buds would follow, and replace the bed with fresh ones. 
In using such beds, it is advisable to turf them over, to prevent 
the mould falling in among the fagots, as well as to prevent the 
roots from sinking in inequalities, and to keep the roots from 
being too much dried or burnt by the heat. In whatever way 
asparagus, or most other plants are forced, too much bottom- 
heat should be guarded against, and every means used to admit 
the heat to ascend in sufficient quantity to warm the atmosphere 
of the bed or house in which they are placed. 

Upon the supposition that a bed or pit has been planted 
about the beginning of the month, another should be got in 
readiness to be planted in like manner towards the middle, and 
preparations for a third to be })lanted towards the end of the 
month. When a large su})ply is wanted, a bed should be 
planted every ten or twelve days, from the beginning of No- 
vember till the end of March, when the last put up will con- 
tinue to yield till it be produced in the natural ground. 

Cover the frames or pits with mats at night, according to the 
stale of the weather, but remove them always during the day, 
after the shoots are above the ground. 

FORCING FRENCH OR KIDNEY- BEANS. 

The kidney-bean, being a native of India, is only had in per- 
fection with us in the warmer months of summer. It cannot be 
ventured in the open air till all chance of spring frosts is over, and 
it is destroyed by the first frost in autumn. To prolong the 
season of this vegetable is a desideratum in most families, who 
have the means of cultivating it, and the opulent citizens of 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



619 



London, and other rich and populous cities, are suppHed with 
it by the market-gardeners, who find it to their advantage to 
bring it to market as early as possible. From the natural 
habits of this plant, it is well calculated for cultivating in a 
high temperature, and those who have the means of a pine- 
stove can produce it in high perfection ; more humble cultiva- 
tors, however, manage to produce it very early upon beds of 
hot dung, flued pits, &c. 

It is most generally cultivated in the pine-stoves, being a tem- 
perature exceedingly well suited to it ; for which purpose large 
pots, and more often boxes or deep shelves are placed in 
these compartments for the reception of the plants, which 
should be sown in pots or deep pans, as thick as they can be 
placed together, in light rich mould ; but to render the opera- 
tion of transplanting less injurious to them, the bottom of the 
pots or pans should be filled with rotten dung pressed closely 
down, over which a thin stratum of fine light rich mould 
should be placed, on which to plant the beans. They 
should be covered two inches with the same rich mould, and 
well watered. When this is finished, remove them to the 
shelves of the pine-stove, or upon trellised tables placed ovef' 
the flues, at that part of the house most remote from the fire. 
These tables or trellises should stand five or six inches clear 
of the flue. In a few days they will vegetate, when plenty of 
water should be given them, keeping them rather moist than 
otherwise. When they are fairly above the mould, remove 
them to a situation in the house, where they will be near the 
glass, and as much exposed to light and air as possible, so 
that they may not be drawn up too rapidly. This should be 
attended to throughout their culture, as if drawn up weak 
and straggling, the crop will be scanty, and the plants sickly. 
After standing a few days in such a situation, to become stocky 
and furnished with roots, they are then in a fit state to trans- 
plant into the pots or boxes, where they are to remain to per- 
fect their crop. They may be at this stage of growth much 
strengthened, and rendered more productive, by being planted 
out into small pots, of the size generally known by the name 
of small forty-eights, one plant in each pot. They should 
remain here for a fortnight, by which lime the roots will have 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



IJdfi. 



nmltipliecl, and the plants have assumed a stocky stout ap- 
jjearance. Upon finally removing them into the pots or boxes 
where they are to remain, care should be taken to injure their 
roots as Uttle as possible, and the dung which was placed in 
the bottom of the sccd-pot or pan will be found useful in form- 
ing a ball at the rout of each plant, by which means they will 
sustain little, if any check, in their removal. The boxes or 
pots into which they are finally planted should l>e filled nearly 
half full of good rotten dung, such as that from an old cucum- 
ber-frame, or some similar to iL If in boxes, they should be 
a foot in depth, and of such lengths and breadths as are most 
convenient for the situations in which they are to be placed, so 
as to take up as little room as possible ; and if pots be pre- 
ferred, they should be nearly ten inches in diameter, and a 
foot deep. :Vfter being half filled with dung, according to the 
directions already given, cover it with an inch and a half of 
very rich loam, upon which stand the plants, three in each pot, 
and about the same proportion in the boxes ; fill in with mould, 
such as is already directed for placing under the roots, till the 
stems of the plants be covered up to the leaves ; or, if they be 
a little drawn, about half way up their stems, leaving space 
within the pots for a further addition of mould, as the plants 
proceed in growth. After planting, they should be supplied 
V, ith a moderate share of water, brought to nearly the tem- 
perature of the house, to settle the mould about their roots. 
This should be administered to them as occasion requires, 
keeping them rather damp than otherwise, but not so as to en- 
danger their damping off. This is necessary to keep them free 
of the red spider and thrips, both of which, particularly the 
former are very annoying to them, and if not watched care- 
fully, will not only destroy the plants themselves entirely, but 
will attack every other thing in the house. Water is one of 
the means of keeping down this enemy, and it should be given 
them with some force from the syringe ; tlour of sulphur may 
be sprinkled over the leaves, either dry or mixed with the 
water with which they are sprinkled, the strong heat of a pine- 
stove will ignite the sulphur, and completely destroy the spi- 
ders. The thrips is destroyed by fumigations of tobacco. 
As the beans advance, small branches should be stuck into 



Jan.] THE FORCING GAKDLX. 6U\ 

the pots or boxes, in order to support the plants ; and where 
they shew a disposition to become climbing or straggling, top 
them a little, which will induce them to throw out lateral 
shoots. 

The sorts most generally preferred for forcing are, the Dun- 
colored, Early-negrOf and Sjjeckled-dwarf ; and, for succes- 
sional crops, should be sown every fortnight or three weeks 
from this time till March. 

French-beans are also successfully cultivated in flued-pits, in 
common dung hot-beds, and, in both cases, are first reared in 
seed-pans or boxes, and when about three inches high, are 
pricked out for good, in rows across the beds, which are pre- 
pared for them, of light rich loam and nearly half-rotten dung, 
or where it can be had, rich vegetable mould. They are 
treated, as to watering and supporting, in the same way as if 
in the pine-stove, w^atching carefully the progress of the red 
spider and thrips, which must be subdued by the same means 
already recommended for those in the pine-stove. The trou- 
ble, however, of growing them in hot-beds is such, that few 
attempt it so early in the season, neither is the fruit so fine 
nor yet so plentiful, as when produced in either a pit or stove. 

The Early-divarf whiter from its dwarf habit, is preferred 
for pits or frames, and so is also the Early yellow, and Early 
blacky as being next in point of dwarfness ; neither of them, 
however, is so prolific as those recommended for the stove. 
Great care must be taken to cover every night with mats, or 
other means more convenient, for a slight degree of frost w^ould 
prove fatal to them at this season. Their extreme tenderness 
is not so well suited to the hot-bed frame, where the degi*ees 
of temperature are liable to changes, from a variety of causes 
over which the cultivator has no control, and which he cannot 
either foresee or resist till it be often too late. 

The temperature, in pits or frames, in which kidney-beans 
are grown, will require to be kept up to 65° throughout the 
night, and 75° throughout the day, both taken as the maxi- 
nunii. It will be more convenient in pits or frames to accom- 
modate them with air, therefore this should be attended to at 
all seasonable times. A free circulation of fresh air, plenty of 
water, and a high temperature, all of which can be obtained 



622 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



in a pit heated by fire, steam, or hot water, will produce 
abundant crops of beans. When the plants ai'e in full bear- 
ing, they will be much invigorated by having an application of 
liquid manure applied to their roots, and also once or twice 
during the growth of their fruit, and even while in bk)ssom. 

Kidney-beans are sometimes grown in vineries and peach- 
liouses ; in the former they are liable to be too much shaded, 
and in the latter, the red spider, of which it is difficult to keep 
them entirely clear would be dangerous to introduce, as the 
tender leaves of the peach, wl^en once attacked with that in- 
sect, Arc sensibly injured by it ; besides, either of these de- 
partments is much better suited for strawberries tlian for beans. 



FORCING POTATOES. 

This valuable root, although capable of being preserved 
from one season to another, is nevertheless required in a young 
state at the tables of the rich nearly three-fourths of the year, 
and various modes liave been tried to produce this esteemed 
root at an early period of the year. A slight degree of tem- 
perature is found sufficient for the purpose; but, like many 
other exotic vegetables, it is extremely impatient of frost. In 
the open air, it is one of the first that indicates the tempera- 
ture of an autumnal night. In cultivating it at this early sea- 
son, care must be taken to protect it from the effects of a low 
temperature, by carefully covering with mats every night. 

The most general and successful mode of accelerating this 
crop is upon beds of hot dung. For this purpose, a quantity 
of dung should be prepared, by repeated turning and ferment- 
ing, until all the rankness evaporates ; and when in a proper 
state to build into a bed, it should be put up to the height of 
three and a half or four feet, and the lights put on. In a few 
days it will be fit to receive the plants, which should be pre- 
paring, while the dung is undergoing the necessary fermenta- 
tion, by being cut and partially dried, and then planted into 
boxes or pots in some light dry mould, and placed in any of 
the hot-houses then at work, or in a cucumber-frame ; they 
will have sprung two or three inches during the time the dung 



Jan."] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



623 



and bed are preparing for them, and when the bed is judged 
to be in a fit state for their reception, let a quantity of hght 
mould be placed upon the surface, four inches thick, upon 
which place the young potato-plants, the roots of which will 
have made some progress, and cover them up nearly to the 
leaves with the same sort of mould ; it is of no consequence 
whether it be rich or not, provided it be light and dry ; the 
more sandy it is the better. Place them in rows about ten 
inches apart, and five or six inches apart in the row. Proceed 
in this manner till the frame be filled, after which, give the 
whole a gentle watering and shut down the lights ; from this 
time forward, they will require all the air that can be admitted 
to them with safety during the day, and carefully covered every 
night with mats. As may be deemed necessary, refresh them 
with water, and frequently examine the mould towards their 
roots, to see that it is kept in a proper state of moisture, with- 
out which they would make little progress and produce a scanty 
crop. The temperature, if kept about the same as has been 
already directed for the asparagus-beds, will be found suffi- 
cient. 

After the same manner they may be grown upon beds com- 
posed of fagots, and managed as recommended for asparagus. 

The names of potatoes are so arbitrary, that it is difficult 
to name such sorts as may be best fitted for early forcing. 
The kinds generally used by us, during our practice, were the 
Earhj Ash-lcaved, Early Cockney ^ and a sort much culti- 
vated round London, known by the name of Fox's Yellow 
Seedling, after a person of the name of Fox, a celebrated 
grower of that vegetable. 

Potatoes, if not improved by being transplanted, are evi- 
dently not injured by that process ; we have uniformly, for 
many years, grown them to the height of three or four inches 
in pots or boxes, placed in the forcing-houses or early melon 
or cucumber-frames, and afterwards transplanted upon a bed 
prepared for them, as noticed above ; and when circumstances 
prevented that mode, we adopted that of springing them in a 
basket or box mixed with mould, and afterwards planted out 
upon the beds where they were to remain. This we have also 
done with our earliest crops, planted out in the open borders. 



€y2\ Tui: practical gardener. [,/<///. 

haniening them by degrees to st<an(l the weatlier in April and 
May, with a httle protection at night. 

The forcing of potatoes at an early period of the year has 
been noticed by few writers upon horticulture, until the aj)- 
pcarance of the Transactions of the Horticultural Society ; 
we therefore will make a few extracis from that voluminous 
work, which, fron its size and the richness of its embellish- 
ments, however creditable to that body, is certainly from those 
causes beyond the reach of readers in moderate circumstances. 

Mr. Knight cultivates potatoes upon hot-beds in the follow- 
ing manner : " The varieties of potatoes," he says, which 
are well calculated for early forcing, begin to vegetate before 
Christmas; and it is of consequence to preserve the germes and 
roots first emitted from injury, where a crop of good potatoes is 
required before the end of May. 1 therefore plant my potatoes 
in pots of about six inches in diameter in January, (a single 
potato in each,) and the pots are then placed in the ground, 
and covered with litter to protect them from fi-ost, and in this 
situation they remain till the hot-bed be ready to receive them. 
In the mean time, the excitability of the plants is not at all 
expended, on account of the low temperature in which they 
vegetate ; and, therefore, when phmged into the hot-bed, they 
instantly shoot with excessive rapidity, and in a few days 
begin to generate tubers. One stem alone should be suffered 
to grow in each pot, for where more remain, the tubers are 
smaller, and the crop is not increased in weight. When the 
plants grow in small pots, the gardener will have apparently 
the advantage of being able to take out the largest potatoes, by 
inverting the pots, without materially injuring the fibrous roots ; 
but this practice will rarely be found eligible, because the 
plants, having the range of their roots confined to the limits 
of the pots, soon occupy the whole of their pasture, and there- 
fore do not produce their tubers in succession, as they will 
under common circumstances. The lights should be drawn 
off during the day, when the spring is far enough advanced to 
|:>ermit this being done without injury to the plants ; and early 
in May the pots may be taken out of the hot-bed, which may 
be employed for other purposes ; and as it must necessarily 
have been kept very dry during the latter period of the growth 



Jan.\ THE FORCING GARDEN. 625 

of the potatoes, it will generally afibrd a strong heat when 
well watered. I confine my plants (which are naturally of a 
very dwarfish growth) to small pots, because, under this mode 
of culture, the tubers acquire maturity sooner, and are better ; 
but the crop is not so heavy, as where the roots are permitted 
to extend more widely; and therefore, where a larger but rather 
later crop is required, the best plan is to put the tubers to 
vegetate in small pots, and from these to remove them, with 
their roots and germes uninjured, to the hot-bed. I tried the 
effect of placing a few tubers (half a dozen only) on the floor 
of my cellar, disposing them just in contact with each other, 
and as soon as the germes were about four inches long, a hot- 
bed was made to receive them. This experiment succeeded 
perfectly, and as it is not attended with so much expense and 
trouble as either of the preceding methods, it will be found 
in many cases the most eligible. All that appears necessary 
to obtain an early crop, is to advance the growth of the plant 
as much as convenient under a low temperature, so as to avoid 
all unnecessary expenditure of its excitability, and, conse- 
quently, to preserve its germes and roots as much as possible 
uninjured by transplantation." 

The only real difference between Mr. Knight's method, and 
that which we have practised for upwards of twenty years, as 
described above, is that he commences vegetation in a low tem- 
perature, and ours is commenced in rather a higher degree of 
heat ; his reason is to prevent expending the excitability of the 
plant. Our success has, however, been so complete, that we 
question much if this excitability be injurious to the potato, by 
our keeping them always in nearly the same temperature. 

Several writers in the same Transactions adopt methods simi- 
lar to the following, for procuring young potatoes. That of 
Mr. Ashworth is given in the following words : In the be- 
ginning of April, a number of large potatoes are selected, and 
laid up in a dry airy room ; they are turned over four or five 
times during the summer, and all shoots which they make are 
taken off as they appear. These are used for the seed, and are 
planted in succession from the beginning of September to the 
end of December in boxes, in the following manner: In the 
bottom of each box, a layer of light vegetable mould, four 

4l 



TIIK ITvAt lKAL tiARDENKU. [./(Ul. 

inches deep, is placed, on which the potatoes are laid about 
two inches apart, and these are covered with another layer ot 
the same mould, and of the same depth. On the surface of 
this second layer, potatoes are again laid, and then covered as 
before; this is repeated until the box be full. The boxes may 
be kept in any of the fire-houses, or in a warm back shed, 
and in three months from the time of planting, young potatoes 
fit for use will be formed. It is to be observed, that the young 
potatoes thus obtained are nmch inferior in quality to those 
produced by vegetating plants ; but as it is scarcely possible to 
bring forward potatoes in beds so soon, this plan is useful, 
when considered as a means of obtaining a luxury at so early 
a season." 

This simple method will ali'ord young potatoes, certainly, 
at a season when they cannot be had by any other means, and 
may be adopted by those, who have not the convenience of 
hot-beds or hot-houses. The boxes placed in any ordinary 
cellar will produce them ; and if placed in a stable, or any 
other building where the tem|x?rature is mild, they will bn 
produced in considerable quantities. They have been culti- 
vated in boxes, planted in the usual way, and placed in hot- 
houses, but are not found to answer so well as on beds of hot 
dung. 

Substitutes for forced potatoes have also "been had recourse 
to, and we know of none better than a small potiito, about tlie 
size of a pigeon's egg, which is often imported into this coun- 
try from Holland, by some of the Dutch residents in this 
country. The merits of this potato are, that the skin is very 
delicate, and the size that of a middling-sized forced potato, 
and is much superior to forced potatoes, which are usually 
used before they are ripe, and are therefore waxy and of an 
unpleasant taste; whereas this potato, being fully ripened, is 
mealy, and of a delightful flavor, in fact excelled by few of 
our finest potatoes, when grown in their greatest perfection. 
It is planted in the spring in the open garden, and treated 
exactly as other potatoes are, and when ripe in autumn is of 
the size above described. It is kept in heaps covered with 
straw, and afterwards with mould, as is usually done by our 
general crops of that root; and sometinus left m the ground 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



627 



where it grew, and covered with litter to exclude the frost : in 
this case it is dug up fresh as wanted for the table. During 
winter and spring it is sent to table, and when washed the 
outer skin readily separates from a finer and close glossy inner 
skin, which must be carefully preserved in undergoing the 
necessary culinary operations of dressing. They should never 
be peeled, nor scraped with a knife, but only this outer skin 
removed by the finger and thumb while washing, or with an 
half-worn soft brush. Few can discover the deception, and 
often, when young potatoes from the hot-beds, and those de- 
scribed have been placed upon the table, the difference was 
not recognized until tasted, and the preference has been uni- 
formly given to the Dutch sort. 

It is particularly necessary to state, that this potato should 
be grown in a soil of a light sandy nature, resembling the na- 
tural soil of Holland as near as possible. In stiff strong clayey 
soils it does not succeed, neither in the quantity of crop nor 
quality of the roots. It is also a difficult matter to procure 
this potato genuine from Holland, the Dutch being not over 
particular in executing their orders with nicety, so far as re- 
gards sending the genuine article wanted. The cultivators of 
bulbs are not unacquainted with this fact. The most certain 
way is to employ some person resident there to purchase them 
on the spot, and export them to this country. Indeed, when 
a correspondent is residing in Holland, it is much the best 
way to have a few bushels imported annually for use. The 
seed tubers should be imported, if not annually, at least every 
second year, as they naturally degenerate when cultivated 
here for more than two years. The quality of the potato is so 
extremely delicate, that it soon becomes unfit for this impor- 
tant purpose, when grown in a cold, wet, or strong soil. 

The late Dr. Noehden, in a communication to the Horticul- 
tural Society, gives the following method of preserving pota- 
toes for winter use, as a substitute for young ones. Not that 
it is to be preferred to the use of the Dutch potato described 
above, but is deserving of being made known, as it may lead 
to some experiments upon this important subject. " By young 
potatoes," he says, are generally understood those tubers 
which have not attained their full age an.l ; rowlli. (n this 



CilS THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

Stage, the substance is generally finer grained, and more cohe- 
sive, than wlien they are farther advanced ; they are what is 
called waxy, and ditler in taste from those that are full grown. 
If they could be preserved in this state through the winter, for 
the use of the table, it would doubtless be an acquisition, and 
something of this kind I have seen attempted. When the 
general crop of potatoes was gathered, at the usual period of 
their harvest in autumn, the small tubers, which are frequently 
disregarded and left to their fate, were picked out and collected. 
They were deposited in a box, between layers of sand, and 
thus kept till December. At this time, the box being opened, 
they were found in perfect preservation, and fit to be dressed 
for the table. To give them all the appearance of young po- 
tatoes in a side dish, the tender skin on them was to be pre- 
served, for peeling them would have destroyed that eftect. It 
was recommended foi* that purpose, when they were to be 
used, to soak them previously for a certain number of hours, 
in water, and tJicn to toss or shake them in a piece of rough 
flannel or baize, between two persons, backwards and for- 
wards, or rub them between tlic hands ; by which operation, 
the coarse outer covering is loosened, and the skin remains 
clean and delicate, so as to exhibit all the exterior of young 
growing potatoes. On trying them upon the table, I found 
that some had, really, the fine waxy taste of young potatoes ; 
but that others, and perhaps the greater part, though resem- 
bling the former in size and looks, had entirely the grain and 
llavor of the old potatoes. That ditibrence is, undoubtedly, 
to be ascribed to the different states of maturity, at which the 
one and the other had anived. The mealy ones, although 
equally diminutive with the others, had, in fact, reached their 
full age, and jK)ssessed, accordingly, the qualities which that 
age would give. Those of a waxy texture were unquestionably 
much younger, and had not come to maturity when they were 
taken from the gi'ound. They were in that condition, which, 
by tlie taste, determines the name of young potatoes. If this 
be so, (and every probability seems to attend the reasoning,) it 
may be concluded that it is feasible to preserve young potatoes 
in the manner described, if they be gathered young ; but to 
distinguish those which are so in the common harvest, in au- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



629 



tumn, from those which only appear so, would be difficult. 
The idea, therefore, presents itself of planting potatoes ex- 
pressly for that use, which must be done at a later period than 
this vegetable is generally planted, let us say two months 
later, in June instead of April. 

" When the general crop is matured and gathered in October, 
those will be still in their young state, their grain will be still 
fine, and their texture close ; and if thus taken up, and pre- 
served, according to the method suggested, it can hardly be 
presumed that, when brought to the table in winter, they will 
be greatly different in quality from that when they were 
gathered. They will in every respect be young potatoes, pro- 
bably not much inferior, if at all, to those raised on a hot-bed ; 
for it does not appear that this mode of keeping them has 
any effect in promoting their maturity, at least not to any per- 
ceptible degi'ee. The sand employed should be of as barren 
a nature as can be procured, and, if possible, contain little or 
nothing of the vegetable stimulus. When the tubers are taken 
out of the ground previously to their maturity, they will not 
readily sprout, or emit roots, which circumstance is a security 
for the success of the method in question." 

Undoubtedly, by this late planting, waxy potatoes will be 
produced, because they are not fully ripe; but planting in 
June will not produce a crop of potatoes, at all similar in size 
or consistency, to be mistaken for young ones in winter. The 
laws of nature in this respect are curious : it is wonderful to 
see the exertions made by her to hurry forward, to overtake 
such of the children of her care, as may, either by accident or 
design, be detained behind their compeers. It is a well known 
fact, that many plants, natives of Alpine regions, spring up 
quite perfect in their structure, produce flowers and seeds, and 
mature the same in the short space of as many days, as the 
same species of plant, cultivated in our gardens, do in as many 
weeks. The practice, in some parts of England, is not to 
plant the general crops of potatoes till June, still they are far 
from being small, or like young forced potatoes. 

Where potatoes are planted in frames or pits, sow thinly a 
little short-topped radish. They will come in for use before 
the potatoes will be injured by them, and will be making the 



t);>() Tin: iMiACTU'AL GAiiDi.Ni.u. [Jan, 

most of the I ••il. The seed bhouhl be sown in, as soon as 
tlic potatoes are planted ; and if steeped for a few iiours, pre- 
viously to sowing, in milk-warm water, it will hasten the ger- 
mination. 

FORCING PEAS 

Few horticulturists have attempted to force this vegetable to 
any extent, or to produce it at any season much earlier, than 
that in which it ripens in the open borders, under the happiest 
ei renins tanccs ; the rambling habit of this plant being pro- 
bably the chief objection, as requiring more room than is 
generally found convenient to spare in our forcing compart- 
ments. They are, however, sometimes grown in the border 
of a peach-house, to a limited extent, and found to produce 
their fruit tolerably well ; they are also found to succeed, by 
being sown in October, in pots or boxes, and transplanted 
into others at the time they are to be placed in that compart- 
ment. They may be cultivated in pits, planted in pots, and 
kept in a progressive temperature, according to their stages of 
growth, beginning at 40°, and rising gradually to 00°, at 
which temperature their blossom will set, and afterwards gra- 
dually risen to 65° or 70^, at which point they will ripen their 
fruit. 

It is expected that the introduction to our gardens of Mr. 
D. Bishop's excellent dwarf early pea will give quite a new 
feature to the forcing of this vegetable, its diminutive habit 
and great earliness being extremely well calculated for growing 
in pits, or in pots in hot-houses. One important part in the 
cultivation of peas, even in the oiK?n borders, is their trans- 
})lantation ; and in any endeavour to accelerate them by artifi- 
cial means in any forcing structure, it must be particularly 
attended to, as the most likely means of making them more 
prolific, as well as to prevent their running too much to straw. 
Air is important for their growth in any structure, and will 
prevent them likewise from being drawn too much to straw, 
as well as preventing the mildew, which, m a close moist at- 
mosphere, would be extremely injurious to them. When the 
plants have attained a size, and are producing blossom, their 



Jan.] THE FORCING GARDEN. GSi 

top shoots may be sliortened, which will lessen their tendency 
to grow to straw, and bring forth additional sustenance towards 
the formation of pods. 

FORCING BEANS. 

Beans may also be forwarded by the same means as peas, 
although not generally practised ; they will succeed better than 
any of the sorts of pea hitherto tried for that purpose. The 
early small Mazagan, the dwarf cluster, or fan, are the best 
kinds. The former should be topped, as is done in its general 
culture. The latter, from its humble growth, will not take up 
much room ; both should be transplanted as directed for peas. 

FORCING KADi-oHES. 

In order to have radishes as early as possible, recourse must 
be had to the assistance of hot-bed frames, by which means 
they may be had in perfection from December till they can be 
procured from the natural ground. During winter, hot-beds 
of moderate dimensions should be put up of dung or leaves, 
about two feet high, just sufficient to promote the germination 
of the seeds, and to forward the plants moderately, without 
drawing them up slender, &c. When the bed is put up, cover 
it with about six or seven inches of light garden-mould, upon 
which sow the seeds, not too thick, but regularly over the bed. 
For a three-light frame, sow one light with the true short- 
topped early-frame radish, and the other two with red and 
white turnip-radishes for variety, keeping each sort separate. 
If the bed be formed of leaves alone, or of dung, which may 
not be wanted when this crop is off, a little lettuce-seed may 
be sown along with the radishes, which, if the former be care- 
fully gathered for use, the lettuces will have a good chance to 
succeed them, and come in seasonably in spring. When the 
crop of radishes is gathered, the frame and lights will probably 
be wanted for other purposes. When they are removed, hoop 
the bed over with stout rods, and cover with mats at night, 
and in bad weather, until the young lettuce get stronc^. The 
seeds of the radish, from its nature, require to be buried much 



ihy.-l THK PRACTICAL (. A Iv ! ) I.N . [Jail. 

vlecpcr than tluit of tlic lettuce, therefore, in sowhig, sow tlie 
radishes first, and sHghtly beat tliem down with tlie back of a 
spade, so as to dispose of the seed in as equal a manner as 
l)OssibIe, as far as regards the depth. Cover them about an 
inch with some fine mould, either sprinkled over them with the 
spade, or sifted over them through a coarse rudder; then sow 
the lettuce-seed thinly, and cover it carefully about a quarter 
of an inch. Radishes succeed very well by sowing at this 
time a thin crop of salmon, or long-rooted radish, in one light ; 
and the other two with turnip-rooted radish, as above, for the 
})rincipal crop, and sowing regularly all over the bed a thin 
rrop of the short-topped sort, which w ill come in before the 
others, and will be gathered for use before it injures the crop 
of the other sort5. In this case, no other sort of seed, such as 
lettuce, should be sown. When the plants appear, give them 
a large share of air, either by tilting up the lights in cold wet 
weather, or removing tiiem for a lew hours every fine day. 
After they have been up a few days, thin them regularly out, 
to admit of their having plenty of room to grow to their proper 
size, as well as to prevent them drawing too much, and spoil- 
ing each other. At this thinning, they should be left at about 
an inch square ; when the heat begins to decline, let it be re- 
newed, as occasion requires, with linings of hot dung or leaves; 
let water be given in such a quantity as the state of the bed 
and weather may require, observing to let the chill be taken 
off it first, by adding a suflficient proportion of hot water, or 
standing the water in pots in some of the hot-houses now at 
work. To keep up a regular succession of radishes at this 
season, if one bed be put up about the beginning of the 
month, let another be also got up by the end, or first week in 
February. At this season, young radish leaves are oi\en used 
as an ingredient in salads, mixed with mustard, cress, &c. ; 
where this is required, a bed should be put up every fortnight, 
• and the young tops will be supplied from the thinnings of the 
plants, leaving still a sufficient crop to come to maturity on 
the beds. 

The frames will require to be matted up at night, or other- 
wise covered, so as to guard against all accidents from frost, 
or the like. 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



638 



FORCING MUSTARD AND CRESS. 

Mustard and cress, unless when grown upon an extensive 
scale for the market, are seldom grown at this early season in 
hot-beds, as in most families, the consumption is so small that 
it would not repay the trouble and expense, unless grown in 
small frames of one light or two, together with rape and other 
salads, that are used in a very young state. Most gardeners 
find a supply more conveniently procured, where there are hot- 
houses, by sowing them in flat pans, boxes, or pots, and 
placing them over the flues, or on the footpaths of their 
forcing-houses. 

These seeds soon vegetate in almost any temperature, and 
will arrive at perfection in any light soil. Rotten tan and 
vegetable mould are most generally used for this purpose, upon 
which the seeds are sown rather thickly, and sometimes covered 
with half an inch of the same sort of mould, or left uncovered ; 
by the latter plan, they are less liable to be gritty, or have 
earthy particles mixed with them, which are not easily washed 
out. For this purpose, boxes about four or five inches deep, 
one foot broad, and of any convenient length are used, and 
answer many other purposes extremely well, such as propa- 
gating plants by cuttings, rearing tender annuals from seed, 
&c. These boxes are filled with any light mould, and placed 
over the flues, or in any convenient part of any of the forcing- 
bouses. The seeds are sown in them, and watered ; in a few 
days the salad is fit for use ; one box of the above size sown 
with mustard, and another with cress, will produce enough for 
any ordinary family for three days. There should be a num- 
ber of such boxes, two of them sown every third or fourth day 
during this month. If placed over the flues, in a stove or 
other house of high temperature, they will require plenty of 
water every day ; but in houses of lower temperature, less 
water should be given, as they are apt to damp v/hen too 
thickly sown, and kept over watered. 

Where the consumption is great, or where there is not the con- 
venience of hot-houses, these salads may be produced in hot-beds 
put up purposely of dung or leaves ; a slight heat will produce 
them, hilt not so rapidly as when in a greater. Beds of two 

4 M 



Ch>i THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan, 

feet high, covered with rotten tan or vegetable mould, or even 
fine sharp sand, to the depth of four or five inches, upon 
which sow the seeds thinly in rows across the bed, keeping 
each sort separately. As soon as the plants vegetate, give them 
plenty of air, and give water as occasion may require; but 
much less will be required in hot-beds than in hot-houses, for 
fear of the crop damping oft'. Along with them, may also be 
sown a little chervil (where wanted), rape, or any other salad- 
plants of like habits. Cover slightly at night with mats, or 
other covering when the weather is severe, but admit as much 
light as possible, by removing the covering early in the 
morning. In gathering the crop for use it should not be 
pulled, but cut neatly off* with a sharp knife, holding the tops 
of the plants in one hand, and cutting them off" about half 
their height with the other. They should be carefully washed, 
and placed in a clean salad-basket, but not allowed to remain 
in the water longer than necessary to clear them of any par- 
ticles of mould that may be attached to them ; nei/her should 
they be gathered long before using, as they will lose much of 
their flavor by the first, and soon lose their tenderness by the 
second mode. They should also be kept separate, and an 
equal portion of each sent from the arden. 



FORCING CARROTS. 

Carrots may be brought to early perfection by being sown on 
a hot-bed of dung, or leaves, any time this month. A mild 
temperature is only required, and a bed of two or two and a 
half feet will be found sufticient for this purpose. When 
formed to that height put on the frame, and when the heat 
is up, eardi it over with some very light dry sandy loam, or 
vegetable mould, to the depth of seven or eight inches. If 
the seeds, previous to sowing, be well rubbed between the 
hands, with a mixture of sand or dry mould, it will cause 
them to separate more readily, as, from their singular construc- 
tion, they are apt to stick closely attached, and therefore, with- 
out this precaution, would be difficult to sow regularly upon 
the bed. After being thus rubbed, they should be mixed with 
a pfmiwn of light dry mould, say three times their own bulk, 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



G85 



and in this state put into a large pot or box, and rendered 
rather damp by water, and then placed in a melon or cucum- 
ber-frame, or in any of the hot-houses at work. In a few 
days the seeds will have germinated, and when they are in this 
state, take them to the bed, which is supposed now to be ready 
for their reception ; sow them carefully, and cover lightly with 
fine dry light mould, to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
This promotion of the germination of the seeds will forward 
the crop considerably, and when the heat begins to decline, 
apply gentle linings. When the seeds are up, admit plenty 
of air, as already directed for mustard and cress, when the wea- 
ther becomes mild enough not to injure them. By the end 
of February, or beginning of March, the frame and lights 
may be removed, and the beds covered at night, and in bad 
weather with canvas or mats, supported by means of hoops 
placed over the beds. The Early Horn and Altringham sorts 
are to be preferred for this purpose. 



FORCING MINT, TANSEY, AND OTHER HERBS. 

Mint, both for salads and mint sauce, will be wanted in 
most families. Tansey is not now so generally used as for- 
merly, but still some families hold Tansey pudding in high 
repute, ])articularly in the north of England. For the pur- 
pose of having these plants in perfection in winter, and early 
in the spring, it is necessary to plant some of their roots upon 
a slight hot-bed of dung or leaves, protected by frames and 
lights. A bed of the same size as has been recommended for 
carrots, will be found perfectly sufficient for this purpose, upon 
which place six or eight inches of dry light mould of any sort, 
on which to place the roots pretty thickly together, so as to 
take up as little room as possible. When the roots are all 
placed in the frame, cover them with mould of the same de- 
scription. Give water as occasion requires, and admit at all 
times plenty of air; by the middle or end of next month, the 
frames and lights may be removed, if wanted for other uses, and 
the plants protected by hooping the beds over, and covering 
with mats or canvas. When Tarragon is in request in a green 
state, it may be procured in the same manner; a three-light 



G.}C> THL PRACTICAL (iAKDKNER. [Ju/f. 

frame will produce enough of all of these herbs for any ordi- 
nary family. When the crop is all gathered, or no longer 
wanted, the roots of the mint and tansey should be gathered 
up and thrown away, as by mixing with tiie mould or dung they 
would Ixjcome troublesome weeds if dug into the ground ; and 
as they are so easily procured, their loss will be of no con- 
sequence. 

Mint may also be potted in lai'ge pots, and placed in any 
of the hot-houses at work, and four or six large pots will pro- 
vide a supply for an ordinary family. 

FORCING RHUBARB. 

Rhubarb is found to be much improved in flavor by being 
blanched, as well as effecting a saving of sugar, in rendering 
it agreeable to the palate when dressed. In blanching rhu- 
barb, the plant is more or less accelerated in its growth, and 
therefore may come under the denomination of being a forced 
vegetable. However, before the idea of blanching it occurred, 
or at least before it was put in practice, it had been forced in 
a variety of ways for many years. The agreeable acidity of 
the foot-stalks of the leaves, which are the parts used, toge- 
ther with their nearly approaching in flavor to gooseberries 
while in an unripe state, renders rhubarb an article of garden 
produce in much demand, at seasons when the other cannot be 
got, unless in a preserved state. Probably the medicinal pro- 
perties of rhubarb may be beneficial to many constitutions, 
and may be admitted into the very small catalogue of pleasant 
medicines ; but, without deciding that question, there are few 
tables at which rhubarb does not appear, in shape of tarts, 
during its season, which, in the open ground, is of short dura- 
tion, in consequence of the extreme rapidity of its growth. 
To obviate this, and similar cases, has long been the anxious 
endeavour of the gardener ; in few has he succeeded so com- 
pletely as with the plant before us, and with so little trouble. 
According to the doctrine of Knight, rhubarb, like most othci- 
perennial herbaceous plants, contains within itself, during win- 
ter, all the organizable matter, which it expands in the forma- 
tion of its flower-stalks and leaves, and requires neither food 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



6S7 



nor light to enable it to produce either of them ; all it requires 
are heat and moisture. If the roots of such plants be removed 
entire, as soon as their leaves become lifeless, they will be 
found to vegetate, after being placed in situations sufficiently 
warm and moist, as strongly and vigorously as if they had re- 
mained in their first position ; but they will of course only con- 
tinue to live to produce one crop of leaves, unless their leaves be 
allowed to perfect themselves under natural circumstances, to 
collect sufficient nutriment for the future demands of the plant ; 
therefore we find rhubarb (as is also the case with asparagus 
and sea-kale) to produce those parts of their leaves, stalks, 
&c., which are used in culinary preparations in perfection, 
without their endeavouring to push out fresh roots to collect 
nourishment from the mould in which they are placed. 

The roots of rhubarb dug up entire, at any period after the 
decay of the leaves of the preceding season, and carried into 
any forcing-house, there placed upon the surface of the borders 
in any convenient place, and supplied with plenty of water, 
will produce a reasonable quantity of leaf-stalks for use during 
the whole winter months ; and by this simple means, we can 
obtain this desirable esculent from the end of November till it 
comes in again in the open ground. 

In removing these roots, it must be done with as large balls of 
earth as convenient, not that they require the earth to nourish 
them, but it is the means of equalizing the degree of tem- 
perature and moisture round their roots, and prevents them 
from being dried up by the action of the air. They may 
readily be blanched in any situation, by covering them with 
mats, supported by hoops or large pots, such as are used for 
sea-kale, only larger, or in deikult of these, boxes may be placed 
over them, so as to exclude the light ; or they may be equally 
cultivated by placing the roots upon the surface of a pit oi 
common frame, formed of hot dung or leaves, and covered with 
wooden sashes, or the glasses put on, and kept closely covered 
with mats or soft hay, straw, or any other light material. The 
roots placed in a cellar, or any other spare house, when the 
temperature can be kept a little above that of the open air, 
will be found to produce a good crop, and come in before that 
in the open ground. Rhubarb may also be successfully forced 



638 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



at any season after November, in tlie ground, where it is grown 
for a general crop, by placing deep boxes over the roots, and 
covering them with hot dung or leaves, as is usually practised 
for sea-kale. By this means, it can be had all winter, where 
there is not the convenience of a hot-house or vinery, in which 
to place it, but of course it will be attended with a little more 
trouble. The boxes for this purpose should be made of half- 
inch boards, and jointed close, so as to exclude the rank steam 
of the dung from getting in to the young shoots. 

Knight has practised forcing this vegetable with success, by 
digging up the roots of young plants early in winter, and placing 
them in large and deep pots, each pot being made to receive 
as many as it would contain. Some fine sandy loam was then 
washed in to fill entirely the interstices between the roots, the 
tops of which were so placed as to be level with, and about 
an inch below the top of the pot. These pots were covered 
with others of the same size inverted upon them. They were 
then placed in a situation in the vinery, where nothing else 
would prosper being so much shaded; there, they were co- 
piously supplied with water, the plants vegetated strongly, 
and from each pot he was enabled to obtain three successive 
crops ; the leaf-stalks of the two first crops being crowded so 
closely as nearly to touch each other over the whole surface of 
the pots. As soon as the third crop of leaves was broken off, and 
a change of roots became necessary, those were removed from 
the pots, and a firesh supply put in. Tlie roots that produced 
the said crop were planted out in the open ground, their tops 
being covered about an inch with mould, and he conjectures, 
that they will, after a year's rest, be fit to be brought into 
forcing at a future period. Should they, however, perish, he 
adds, it will be of very little consequence, as year-old roots 
raised from cuttings of the roots, or even fi'om seeds sown in 
autumn, will be found sufl^iciently strong for use. We are, 
however, of opinion, that plants from four years' old and up- 
wards are much better for general crops ; but, for Mr. Knight's 
plan, the younger ones are certainly to be preferred. 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



639 



FORCING DANDELION. 

This plant, being indigenous to our road-sides, and waste 
sides of fields, &c., has seldom been cultivated, even although 
it is found in considerable quantities on the stalls in Covent 
Garden Market. It is not however difficult, nor yet unworthy 
of culture as a salad-herb, but is also worthy of being forced at 
mid-winter, when other salads are scarce, and it is then held 
in much esteem ; it has a pleasant bitterness of taste, and is 
considered a good stomachic. 

We have forced this plant for some years ; for which pur- 
pose prepare a slight hot-bed, of such dimensions as have been 
recommended for carrots, or mustard and cress, upon which 
place six or seven inches of mould of any sort, provided it be 
dry, into which to plant the roots, which generally will not be 
difficult to procure. The roots should not be planted deep ; 
about one-third of their length should be above the mould ; 
as the heat gets up, and before the plants begin to spring, 
cover the whole over with saw-dust, quite dry, up to the level ot 
the tops of the plants, observing to water the roots previously 
to laying on the saw-dust, that it may be kept as long dry 
as possible. As the plants shoot up, which they will begin 
to do in a few days afler planting, let them be regularly covered 
with more saw-dust, the drier the better ; continue this method 
until they have attained the height of four or five inches. 
When they are fit for use, they should be carefully cut, taking 
a thin slice off the top of the crown of the root to keep the 
leaves better together ; in this way, after being carefully washed, 
they are sent to table, where they are eaten, either by them- 
selves or mixed with other salads. Where saw-dust is not to 
be conveniently procured, rotten tan sifted and kept dry for 
the purpose will answer equally well. The leaves of this salad 
are not only used, but the roots also, which, when washed 
clean, are sent to table, sometimes attached to the leaves, and 
often separated from them. To those fond of a variety of 
salads, this will present a valuable addition. The French eat 
the roots and leaves between thin slices of bread and butter. 



(vlO THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

FORCING SEA-KALE. 

Few vegetables are improved more by cultivation than the 
sea-kale, and few are more improved by forcing. In its culti- 
vated state, it is found to be in April and May, far superior to 
w hat it is in its natural habitats ; but, when forced at mid-win- 
ter, it is superior to any other vegetable with which we are yet 
acquainted. Possessing such merits, it is not surprising that 
many methods have been tried to bring it to perfection, and to 
protract the season of it to the utmost possible extent. 

The most general way of forcing sea-kale is, by planting it 
upon the beds or rows in which it grows in the natural ground ; 
for which purpose, (the leaves and stems of the plants being 
trimmed,) the surface of the beds or rows is forked up care- 
fully, so as not to injure the roots ; the whole is then covered 
with finely sifted coal-ashes, over each plant is then placed a 
large flower-pot inverted, with the holes stopped to prevent 
the admission of steam, or regular blanching-pots are placed 
over them in the same manner ; previous to this, there should 
be a quantity of dung or leaves put up to ferment, and which, 
after being turned over once or twice, are fit for use. These 
])ots are to be covered with this dung or leaves to the thick- 
ness of a foot or eighteen inches, according to the state of the 
weather and quality of the dung. While the operation o. 
covering the pots is going on, beat the dung regularly down, 
as it is laid up, to make the whole as compact as can be ; when 
finished, it should have a ridge-like appearance, for the better 
throwing off the rain or melting snow. Great care must be 
taken not to make this ridge too large, so as to produce a 
superabundance of heat ; this must be carefully guarded against, 
for it is better that the temperature be too low, than too high, 
during the whole process. In the first case, no harm can 
ensue to the crop, only that it will not come into use so soon ; 
but the latter may be attended with much danger to the plants, 
and will always produce them weak and ill-flavored. The 
pots should be so placed, that a portion of the coal-ashes may 
be gathered round the base of them, to prevent the entrance 
of steam, which would destroy the crop if admitted in any 
quantity. The heat during the whole process of forcing should 



Jan.'] THE FORCING GARDEN. Gi l 

be kept up above 50°, and not allowed to exceed 60°, and in 
about three weeks after covering up, the crop will be fit for 
use. When the ridge of dung is finished, thrust in two or 
three watch-sticks, by which the temperature can be at any 
time ascertained. It is seldom necessary to add to the ridge 
of dung, unless the weather should be extremely cold and 
windy ; and the same dung used to force one set of roots, with 
the addition of a small quantity of fresh added, will be in a fit 
state to place over a second set of roots, and so on, during the 
forcing season, rejecting such as becom-e too much decayed. 
As the crop is gathered, and no appearance of more shoots 
springing, the plants are then to be allowed to rest till spring ; 
but to protect them from the injury of frost, leave a few inches 
of the rotten parts of the dung over them. In spring they 
will shoot up and perfect leaves, so as to fit themselves for 
forcing again in the same manner the following season. One 
set of roots will last in good condition for forcing, in this way, 
for many years; however, as they will become eventually 
large, and spread their crowns to a breadth, not to be conve- 
niently covered with the blanching-pots, new plantations should 
be made every third or fourth year ; this will allow of a suc- 
cession of fresh roots for forcing, and as the oldest are de- 
stroyed, will thus afford a piece of ground fit for any crop to 
follow. 

Sea-kale is also forced on hot-beds, exactly as is already 
described for asparagus, and is blanched by keeping the lights 
covered with mats or straw; or in want of lights, wooden 
shutters are made so as to fill the spaces of the lights ; by this 
method the roots, are, of course, of no use after the crop is 
gathered. In placing the roots into a frame for this purpose, 
it is necessary to cut away all the superfluous large roots, and 
leave only such as have buds at their extremity. If each piece 
having a bud be separated from the rest of the root, and be 
eight or twelve inches in length, it will be found, under good 
management, to produce as good a crop as if the whole mass 
of roots were retained. By thus reducing the roots, a greater 
number will be got into one frame, and each of these parts of 
the root will be found to contain sufficient organizable matter 
to perfect the crop. Afler the same manner, the roots may he 

4 N 



612 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. f/r/i»- 

placcd in any forcing-house now at work, either in large pots 
planted in light mould and sufficiently watered, and blanched 
by inverting another pot of like dimensions over them; or 
they may be planted in the borders, and blanched by covering 
with the proper blanching-pots. In either case, as they re- 
quire little air and no light, any situation in the house, such 
as behind the flues, or in any other place where no other plant 
can live, will be found a suitable place for them. We would 
recommend the following method for forcing this esteemed 
vegetable, as being decidedly the neatest of any method that 
we have seen practised. The experience of several years, during 
which we adopted that method, convinces us of its superiority. 
The expense, in the first instance, is more than that of any 
of the methods in general practice, but the neatness of the 
beds, both while they are forcing, and while they are resting, 
will be sufficient to compensate for the expense, where neat- 
ness is combined with utility. In forming the beds, which 
should be rather above the general level of the surface, parti - 
cularly if the soil be strong and wet, proceed by building pa- 
rallel walls of open brick-work (or what is generally understood 
by dove-cot work, such as is used in the building of cucumber 
and melon-pits) of any length the beds are to be made, and at 
two feet distant from each other, not including the thickness 
of the walls, which for durability should be nine inches thick, 
that is, tlie thickness of the length of one brick, or they may 
be only four inches thick, which will answer the purpose 
equally well, but will not last so long. These ^^^lls should be 
three feet high, say two feet under the surface, and one foot 
above it. The mould, previously to the walls being built, 
should be excavated to the depth of two feet. When the walls 
are built, every second space should be filled up with rich 
light mould, having a good proportion of sand in it, about 
ume inches above the level of the tops of the walls, to allow 
for settling, in whicn lo plant the plants, which should be 
chosen out of some one-year-old plants, being strong and well- 
rooted; and which should be carefully planted in March or April. 
They should be well supplied with water during the first season^ 
and the surfiice of the beds kept covered a few inches with 
rotten dung, both to enrich the plants, as well as to prevent 



Jan.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



64S 



the drought fi'om checking their growth during summer. If 
well attended to in this respect, they will be in pretty good 
state for slight forcing the first season after planting, and will 
be completely so the second, and will continue so for several 
years. The tops of the w^alls should be secured by having a 
wooden plate, by way of coping, both to resist the wet and 
render the bricks less liable to be displaced. The spaces left 
empty are intended to be filled with dung, or leaves, or any 
other fermentable matter, the heat from which will penetrate 
through the open brick-work in the walls sufficiently to warm 
the roots in the beds ; but as that heat would not, in the mid- 
dle of winter, be powerful enough to accelerate vegetation 
sufficiently fast, a provision is made which will prevent the 
escape of the heat of the linings, and at the same time blanch 
the crop and keep the wdiole dry, by having covers con- 
structed of wood, which should rest upon every fourth wall, 
so as to include two beds of plants, and one lining only, which 
lining should be made of well-fermented dung or leaves, so as 
to produce as little steam as possible ; but, in order to guard 
more effectually against any accident of that kind, the lining 
so enclosed should be covered with rotten tan, or dry light 
mould, sufficiently to keep down the steam, if too powerful ; 
and in the top of the wooden cover should be two, three, or 
more small ventilators, according to the length of the beds, 
four inches square, which can be opened and shut at pleasure, 
both for the escape of any superfluous steam, as well as for 
the examination of the progress of the crop and state of the 
beds. Steam, if not too powerful, will not injure the crop, 
and we have never had one instance of any accident arising 
from that cause. Every alternate lining will be on the outside 
of the wooden frame or roof, and can be turned over, watered, 
or more fresh dung or leaves added, according to circum- 
stances, and may be made up to any height required. When 
the crop is fit to gather, remove one of the boards on the side 
of the frame, which for this purpose is left moveable, being 
hinged to the other parts of the frame ; when one bed is cut, 
proceed in the same manner to the opposite side, and remove 
the moveable board there. We have sometimes covered the 
beds nine inches or a foot over with rotten tan, and some- 



G44 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



times with saw-dust; in such cases, the enclosed lining was 
left uncovered, as the steam proceeding from it could not in- 
jure the crop ; by this method we gained more heat, but the 
state of the crop was not so readily ascertained as by the other 
method. Rhubarb, when required to be blanched, may be 
managed exactly in the same way ; but where there is the 
convenience of forcing-houses at work at this season, it is not 
worth the expense and trouble. The covers should not be so 
high as to form too large a space under them to be heated ; if 
eighteen inches in their highest part, it will be amply sufiicient. 

FORCING MUSHROOMS. 

Where mushrooms ai*e required all the year, they cannot be 
liad without some degree of artificial heat, and therefore may 
come under the head of forced vegetables. The most suc- 
cessful and convenient method of producing this vegetable 
during winter is decidedly that introduced by Mr. Isaac Oldacre 
late gardener to Lady Banks. It is the common method ot 
cultivating mushrooms in Germany, and by him introduced 
into Russia, during the time he was one of the gardeners to 
the late Empci'or. It was subsequently adopted by him at 
Spring Grove, and now, with slight variations, almost univer- 
sally practised throughout the British gardens. The house in 
which the mushrooms are grown may either be a detached 
building, or may be erected behind a pine-stove, or other hot- 
house, and of dimensions according to the quantity of mush- 
rooms required. 

The mushroom-house of Oldacre, of which the accompany- 
ing figures are representations, is described by him in a com- 
munication to the London Hort. Soc. as follows : " The out- 
side walls (g h) should be eight and a half feet high for four 
heights of beds, and six feet and a half for three heights, and 
ten feet wide withinside the walls. This is the most conve- 
nient width, as it admits of a set of shelves three feet and a 
half wide on each side, and affords a space through the middle 
of the house three feet wide for d double flue, and to walk 
upon it. The wall should be nine inches thick, and the length 
of the house as it may be judged necessary. When the out- 



Jan,] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



645 



side of the house is built, make a floor or ceiHng over it as 
high as the top of the outside walls of boards, one inch thick, 
and plaster it on the upper side (ee) with road sand, well 




wrought together, one inch thick, (this will be found superior 
to lime), leaving square trunks (/) in the ceiling, nine inches 
in diameter, up the middle of the house, at six feet distant 
fe'om each other, with slides {s) under them to admit and let 
off air when necessary. This being done, erect two single 
brick-walls {v v), each five bricks high, at the distance of 
five feet and a half from the outside walls, to hold up the 
sides of the floor-beds {a a), and form one side of the air- 
flues (u w), leaving three feet up the middle {I x I) of the 
house for the flues. Upon these walls {v v) lay planks, 
four and a half inches wide, and three inches thick, in which 
to mortise the standards (/r) which support the shelves. 
These standards should be three and a half inches square, and 
placed four feet six inches asunder, and fastened at the top {/c Z) 
through the ceiling. When the standards are set up, fix the 
cross-bearers (1 w, 1 7i) that are to support the shelves (o o), 
mortising one end of each into the standards, the other into 
the walls (n). The first set of bearers should be two feet from 
the floor, and each succeeding set two feet from that below it. 



64<) 



Hie practical gardener. 



[Jan. 




Having tlius fixed the ui>- 
rights (/i7i) and bearers (1 n) 
at such a height as the 
building will admit, pro- 
ceed to form the shelves 
(o, o) with boards an inch 
and half thick, observing 
to place a board eight 
inches broad, and one inch 
thick, in front of each 
shelf, to support the front 
of the beds. Fasten this 
board to the front of the 
standards, that the width 
of the beds may not be 
diminished. The shelves 
being finished, the next 
thing to be done is the 
construction of the flue {p) 
in the ground plan, which 
should commence at the 
end (/) of the house next 
to the door, run parallel 
to the shelves the whole 
length of the house, and 
return to the fire-place, 
where the chimney should 
be built. The sides 
ot the flue inside to be the 
height of four bricks laid 
flatways, and six inches 
wide, which will make the 
width of the flues fifteen 
inches from outside to out- 
side, and leave a cavity 
on each side betwixt the 
flue and the walls that 
are under the shelves, and 
one ix y) up the middle. 



Jan."] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



647 



betwixt the flues, two inches wide, to admit the heat into 
the house from the sides of the flues. The middle cavity {x y) 
should be covered with tiles, leaving a space of one inch be- 
twixt each tile for the admission of the heat. The top of the 
flues, including the covering, should not be higher than the 
top of the brick walls that form the front of the floor-beds. 
The reason why the sides of the flues are recommended to be 
built stronger than usual is, because they support the walk. 
The walk itself is formed by three rows of tiles, the outside 
rows making the covering of the flues, and those of the centre 
one covering the middle cavity (j:, ij) as above-mentioned. The 
outside cavities of the flue are left open, the tiles which 
we placed over the flues being laid so as not to cover these 
cavities, which allow the heat of the sides of the flues to 
ascend." 

The house being constructed, the beds are to be made in 
the following manner : — 

At any season of the year " collect a quantity of fresh horse- 
dung, that has not been exposed to wet or fermentation, clear 
it of long straw, so as to leave one-fourth in quantity of the 
shortest litter, when incorporated with the horse-droppings ; 
then add a fourth part of tolerably dry turf-mould, or rather 
maiden earth, and mix it well with the dung before mentioned ; 
the advantage derived from mould, or maiden earth, is the 
union of the whole into one compact solid substance, so con- 
genial to the gi'owth of mushrooms. If dung, from the rides 
of a livery stable, or the round of a horse-mill can be pro- 
cured, and mixed with a fourth part of short litter, and added 
to as many horse-droppings as \\\\\ cause a gentle warmth 
when made into beds, it will be found superior for the produc- 
tion of mushrooms to horse-dung that is gathered from the 
stables." This being procured in some quantity, proceed to 
make up the beds in the following manner : " Form the beds 
on the shelves and ground-floor, by placing a layer, about 
tliree inches thick, of the prepared mixture, then with a flat 
mallet beat it as closely together as possible ; next add another 
layer of the compost, repeating the same process as before, 
and so until the beds be formed into a solid body seven 
inches thick, making the surface ot the beds as smooth and as 



G18 THE rrvACTicAL gardener. [Jan. 

even as possible. The reducing the beds into a very solid 
body is a most essential point, for without it, you cannot ex- 
pect success, and the thickness of them must also be particu- 
larly attended to, for where there is a much greater body, the 
beds will be subjected to a strong fermentation, and will be 
prevented by evaporation, from retaining that consistency in 
the dung whicli is absolutely necessary for the production of a 
good and plentiful crop. On the contrary, if a much less 
quantity be laid together, the heat and fermentation will be 
insufficient to prepare the beds for the nourishment of the 
spawn ; but the assistance of both, to the extent prescribed, 
cements the materials, which, in addition to beating, nicreases 
greatly their solidity. The proper vegetation of the spawn, 
and the consequent crop of mushrooms, depend entirely upon 
a moderate genial heat and fermentation, neither too stroni^ 
nor too slight. As soon as the heat in the beds is a little more 
than that of milk from the cow, (say from eighty to ninety 
degrees of Fahrenheit,) beat the beds a second time, to ren- 
der them, if possible, more solid ; then make holes with a dibble 
three inches in diameter, and nine inches asunder, through the 
compost in every part of the beds. These holes will be the 
means of cooling the beds, and preventing that excess of heat 
from taking place, which would produce rottenness and render 
them unproductive. If the beds do not attain the heat re- 
quired in four or five days after putting up, (which may be 
known by plunging a thermometer into one of the holes), 
add another layer of the compost two inches thick, which will 
probably increase the heat sufficiently ; if not, a part of the 
bed should be taken away, and the remainder mixed with fresh 
horse-droppings, and wrought together in the same manner 
as before, in order to produce the proper degree of lieat. 
Beds made after this manner readily generate natural spawn 
in summer, and frequently in the winter months.'* 



SPAWNING THE BEDS. 

*' In three or four days after the holes have been made, 
by observing the thermometer it will be found that the desired 
degree of heat has been obtained, and the inside of the holes 



Ja?i.] THE FORCING GARDEN. 649 

will also have become dry : the beds are then in a good state 
for spawning, which should be done while the heat is on the 
decline. If this operation be deferred until the heat be quite 
exhausted, the crop will be late and less plentiful. Fill every 
hole with spawn, which should be well beaten into them, and 
then make the surface of the beds solid and level. It is of no 
consequence whether the spawn put into the holes be in one 
lump, or in several pieces, it is only necessary that the holes 
should be well filled. About a fortnight after the spawn has 
been introduced, examine the holes, and if the spawn has 
suffered any damage from over-heat or too much moisture in 
the beds, introduce fresh spawn in the same way as before. 
On the contrary, if the spawn be found good and vegetating 
freely into the compost, such beds (if required for immediate 
production) may be covered with mould, agreeably to the rules 
hereafter laid down, and the beds intended for succession 
should remain unearthed, in the summer, three weeks or a 
month, before you wish them to produce ; and in winter a 
month or five weeks. If the spawn be introduced in hot wea- 
ther, air must be admitted, as freely as possible, into the shed, 
until the spawn has spread itself through the beds ; for if the 
place be kept too close, the beds will become soft and spongy, 
and then the crop will neither be abundant nor of good qua- 
lity. Such beds as are intended to be put into work nuist be 
covered with a coat of rich maiden earth, in which its turf is 
well reduced. Then spread it regularly over the surface of 
each bed, two inches thick, and beat it as solid and level as 
possible. The earth used should neither be too wet nor too 
dry, but so as to become compact, and exhibit when beaten a 
smooth face. If too moist, it will chill the beds and injure 
the spawn. On the contrary, if too dry, it will remain loose, 
and in a state by no means favorable to the growth of the 
mushrooms ; but when solid, it produces not only finer mush- 
rooms but in greater quantities, as the earth from soils of 
lighter texture invariably gi'ows them weaker, and of inferior 
quality, and such beds cease bearing much earlier. From the 
time of covering with earth, the room or shed should be kept 
at 50° or 55°, and the light must be excluded. If the heat 

4 o 



650 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



be suflered to exceed to any considerable degree, it will cause 
the beds to ferment a second time, and weaken, if not totally 
destroy the spawn ; but should a much lower degree of tem- 
perature than the one prescribed be permitted to prevail, the 
mushrooms will advance slowly in their growth, and if watered 
in that state, numbers of the small ones will be prevented from 
attaining perfection. In watcj-ing them, extreme caution is 
necessary, as well in the mode of application as in the tem- 
perature of the water, which should be nearly as warm as new 
milk, and very lightly sprinkled with a syringe, or a small 
watering-pot, otherwise the mushrooms are sure to sustain 
damage. If cold water be used, and given plentifully at one 
time, it will not only destroy the existing crop, but the spawn 
also, and render the beds so treated of no farther utility. If 
the beds have been suffered to become very dry, it is better 
to give them several light waterings, than one heavy supply. 
In gathering the mushrooms, great care must be taken not to 
disturb the small ones, which invariably, with good management, 
surround the stems of those that are more early matured. 
The best method is to twist them up very gently, in all in- 
stances, where you can, but where you are obliged to cut them, 
great care should be taken to divest the beds of the stems of 
those which are cut, as they would rot, to the great injury of 
those that surround them. If the preceding directions be 
properly attended to in the management of the beds, they 
will continue to bear for several months, and a constant supply 
may be kept up by earthing up one bed or more every two or 
three months, according to the quantity of mushrooms required 
at one season. AVhen the beds are in full bearing, if the 
mushrooms become long in their stems and weak, it is certain 
that the temperature is too high, consequently air must be 
admitted in proportion to the heat. As the old beds decline 
in bearing, and produce but few mushrooms, take the earth 
clean off the dung, and if you find the litter decayed, destroy 
the beds and replace them by new ones, being careful to select 
any good spawn that may present itself; but if, on taking 
away the earth, you find the beds dry, solid, and full of good 
spawn, add a layer of fresh compost, as before recommended. 



Tlin: FORCING GARDEN. 



651 



three or four inches thick, mixing it a Uttle with the old, and 
beat it as before. By adhering to this mode of renovating the 
old beds, a continual supply may be kept up." 

It must be acknowledged that mushrooms produced in this 
way are far inferior in flavor and juicyness to such as are 
produced upon beds in the ordinary way, and which is fully 
described in the Culinary Garden; still the above method 
possesses one decided advantage over the other methods of 
cultivating this precarious vegetable, which is, that they are 
produced with much less trouble and expense in winter, and 
with much more certainty. Mushrooms are invariably found 
to be finer flavored, more juicy, and heavier, when cultivated 
upon beds of considerable depth. Hence it would appear that 
they require nourishment, to a considerable extent, and that 
nourishment seems to be derived from the quantity of proper 
materials with which the beds are composed. Where there is 
a greater body of matter contained in the beds constructed as 
above, the mushrooms are found to increase in size, therefore 
it becomes obvious that, instead of the beds being only seven 
or eight inches deep, if they be from a foot to fifteen inches, 
the crop would be benefited thereby. In making them up to 
this thickness, great carG ought to be taken to prevent any 
unnecessary fermentation. The droppings should be partially 
dried before using, and the heat allowed to exhaust itself nearly 
in one course of compost, before another is laid upon it. As 
the pro^x^r degree of temperature and solidity is of the utmost 
importance, beds made of the above thickness will retain their 
temperature longer, and will be less subject to the changes of 
moisture to which the German l)cds are liable, owing to their 
want of sufficient thickness. We have, however, thought it 
advisable to make the above long extract from the llort. Trans, 
as being the ground plan of the most regular method of culti- 
vating mushrooms yet published. The success of the plan, 
under the management of the intelligent individual who intro- 
duced it, we have frequently witnessed, as well as practised 
ourselves ; but have always found' that an increase of body in 
the beds was attended with the most success, and less attention 
required after the fcrmcntath)n had subsided. 



652 THE I'RACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

Mushrooms may also be readily obtained throughout winter, 
in any moderately warm apartment, by filling boxes, or ham- 
Y>crs, or any other thing that will keep the compost together. 
The compost, tlie same as for the beds already described, 
should bo well beaten into them, and spa^^'ned when the rank 
heat is upon the dccUne ; any number of boxes or hamj>ers 
may be filled with it, and kept in reserve until wanted in any 
dry shed or loft, where there is no chance of wet or frost pene- 
trating. When it is thought necessary to put them to work, 
take any number of them and mould tiiem over as above di- 
rected, and place them in any temperature, not exceethng 60° ; 
by occasionally giving a slight watering, so as to keep the 
materials in an equable degree of moisture, plenty of mush- 
rooms will be produced. Boxes thus filled may be placed in 
any of the forcing-houses, where the temperature is not too 
high ; and, as the crops become scanty and weak, remove 
them again to the loft or shed, from which they were at first 
taken ; and then, after resting for a few weeks, may be brought 
into the house again, and if not too much exhausted by the 
first crop, will produce a second, and sometimes a third crop, 
during the winter months. Having a sufficient number of 
boxes, a regular supply may be thus kept up, widi little trou- 
ble or expense. 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



653 



FEBRUxVRY. 



SUCCESSION AND NURSING PINE-PLANTS. 

The general management of both these divisions of the 
pinery are, at this period of the year so similar, that it may 
be sufBcicnt for us to say, that the temperature of both should 
be kept up to the same as directed last month, and that air 
and water should now be more liberally given. No opportu- 
nity of good weather should be lost sight of at this season, 
when air can be given, which will strengthen the plants, and 
prevent them drawing up weak, and assuming a sickly yellow 
color, which they are apt to do when long shut up in a close 
atmosphere. 

Healthy plants will now be beginning to make roots, and 
therefore should be supplied with water once every six or eight 
days, or rather as often as they appear to be dry. We have 
already more than once alluded to the mistaken practice of 
watering at stated periods; no such plan should ever be pursued, 
as some plants require water often, and others more seldom, 
even in the same pit, this depending generally upon the healthy 
or unhealthy state of the plants. 

FRUITING PINE-PLANTS. 

It may be found necessary, about the beginning or towards 
the middle of the month, to turn over tlie bark or leaf-bed, 
the heat having probably declined considerably ; and it may 
also be necessary to add a portion of fresh tan, or leaves, to 
set the whole in a state of fermentation again. In adding 
frcsli bark or leaves, it should be always observed to trench 
the bed up from the bottom ; and in mixing the materials, 
care must be taken to keep the fresh matter next the bottom, 
or at least not near the top; a sufficient quantity of the old 
halt-decayed matter should be brought up to the surface, in 
wliich to plunge the pots. The plants should be examined 



Gol THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Fcl/. 

when taken out of the bed, to see if any of them require shift- 
ing. This should not be done as a matter of course, but as a 
matter of necessity. Those which appear stinted for room in 
the pots should be carefully taken out and repotted into larger 
pots, without disturbing the ball but as little as possible. If 
the ball seem hard, and the mould appears exhausted, loosen 
the surface of the ball carefully, by gently patting it all round 
with the hand, but if too hard to be thus easily broken, it has 
the more need of being shifted; in such cases, as nuich of the 
outer sides of the ball should be displaced, so as not to shake 
it (piitc to the centre, and the roots carefully separated, and 
such as are injured in the operation, or decayed, should be 
thinned out with a knife. A larger pot should be prepared by 
being previously well drained, and the plant thus treated 
potted in it, carefully spreading out the roots, and shaking the 
mould in among them, but not using a stick, as is often prac- 
tised, by which the roots may be injured. The plant thus 
repotted should be placed rather deeper in the pot than it was 
in the former, and if any useless or decayed leaves remained 
about the bottom of the stem, they should be displaced, thus 
affording an opportunity for fresh roots emitting themselves 
near the surface of the mould. After potting, a moderate 
supply of water should be given, to settle the mould about the 
roots. Those plants whicii appear healthy, and are judged to 
be in pots sufficiently large, should not be chsturbed, as it is 
presumed that they have been all potted in autumn in full-sized 
pots, in which they are to perfect their fruit. Nothing can be 
gained by repotting plants at this stage of their growth, most 
of them starting into fruit, and many of them already farther 
advanced. The act of shaking them out of their pots at this 
time must certainly give them a check that they will not get 
over for some weeks, and will be evidently detrimental to the 
formation of the fruit, which wUl be now in an embryo state. 
Those plants which appear sickly, and do not stand steady in 
the pots, may require to be taken out, and the whole of the 
ball carefully broken ; the roots should then be examined, and 
such as are decayed should be displaced, and the plant repotted 
into the same sized pot ; or, if very sickly, into a smaller pot 
than that in which it was first placed, which, when the plant 



Feb.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



G55 



is recovered and fully established, will be potted into a larger 
pot at a future examination. All the plants which seem in 
good health, and are in sufficiently large pots, should not be 
disturbed, only a little of the surface-mould gently loosened 
and taken off, and fresh surfaced with mould. Those plants 
which may have already started into fruit, and appear to be in 
want of room for their roots, should be carefully turned out of 
their pots and placed in larger, taking every possible care not 
to break their balls nor disturb their roots. When all the 
plants are carefully examined, and the bed again ready for 
their reception, which operation should be going on Avhile the 
plants are examining, so as to keep them out of the bed as 
short a time as possible, they should again be replungcd up 
to the brims of the pots, unless it be apprehended tliat the 
heat will be too powerful in the bed; if that be apprehended, 
plunge them only three-fourths of their depth at first, and 
after the heat declines, either plunge them to their full depth, 
or add a top-dressing of half-decayed tan or leaves from 
some of the other departments where it can be spared, or 
have some prepared for the purpose. It is, however, much 
better to plunge them to their full depth at first, as moving 
them so often about is detrimental to them, and the less they 
are now disturbed until their fruit be sv/elled off, the better. 
In plunging them, care must be taken to place the pots quite 
level, so that they will hold their share of water, and the 
plants stand perpendicularly to each other. To llicilitate this, 
a trench should be formed out in the bed the whole of its 
length, the pots placed in it at regular distances from each 
other, and the tan, or leaves, firmly packed in all round. The 
distance at which they should stand from each other must be 
determined on by the size of the plants ; they should not be 
closer, at all events, than twenty or two- and- twenty inches 
from the centre of one plant to that of the next. 

In arranging the plants in tlie bed, the largest should oc- 
cupy the backward row, that is, the row farthest from the 
front of the house, and the tallest plant should stand in the 
centre of this row; the next in order of height upon the right 
hand, and left alternately, and so of the other rows until the 
whole be plunged, the smallest plants occupying the front row, 



G5G TMK PRACTICAT, OAUDENER. [Fclf. 

or that next the front of the house. It sometimes, liowever, 
happens, that a few plants may be much farther advanced 
tlian others, and may be upon the eve of attaining maturity ; 
such may be placed at the ends of the rows, at tliat end of 
the bed next to where the flues enter the liouse, and will thus 
be forwarded into maturity, it being sup})0sed to be the warm- 
est part of the house, and, by placing them there, it will not 
cause a break in the arrangiMucnt of the stock, when they arc 
removed after being ripe ; their place can be filled with such 
plants, from the succession-house, as will lill up the space. 
Should it so happen, that their being so placed will forward 
their fruit sooner than maybe desired, they may, in that case, 
be placed at the other end of the bed, which is supposed to 
be the coldest part of the house, and by that m?ans be re- 
tarded ; or they may be at once placed in the succession-house, 
where the temperature is much less than in the fruiting-house. 
It would, however, be inconvenient to place them, perhaps, in 
the centre of the bed, where, from their height, they probably 
ought to stand ; for, when cut and removed, the space which 
they occupied couUl not be filled without endangering those 
around them. 

When they are p.ll placed in the bed, they should have a 
little water at their roots, and a gentle syringing all over-head, 
to wash off any filth or dust that may have fallen upon them 
during the regulation of the bed. This syringing should now, 
as the season advances, be more frequently and more copiously 
administered to them. The temperature now, until the heat 
of the bed rise sufliciently, should be kept up by fire-heat to 
61-° or 68° ; this, however, will be in a few days again sufli- 
ciently increased. The thermometer then should be allowed 
to rise to 70° or 74°, and continue increasing from that to 75^ 
or 78°, keeping the temperature as near to that point as 
possible. 

Air must now be freely admitted every day that the state of 
the weather will admit, so as to prevent the thermometer ex- 
ccedino- So° or 84'°. When the weather is so inclement as not 

o 

to allow of a sufTicient share of fresh air being given, let the 
fires be kept up during the day, so that the air may be ad- 
mitted without lowering the temperature of the house below 



Fvb.] THE FORCING GARDEN. 657 

75° OT 78°. Whether the houses be ventilated by proper ven~ 
tilators in the walls, or by the opening of part of the lights, 
it will, in frosty days, be advisable to hang a thin mat opposite 
the aperture, to temperate the current of air. When the house 
is closed for the night, let plenty of water be spilt upon the floors 
and flues to produce a plentiful steam ; this should be attended 
to regularly every night ; and, in fine clear weather, a little fire 
should be made in the morning early, to heat the flues just 
sufiicient to produce a like effect. If the bed should get rather 
warm, but not so as to render necessary a removal of the 
plants, give plenty of water to the roots ; if this be attended 
to, there is little to be apprehended from their being injured 
by a rather brisk heat at this season. The heat of the bed 
can always be ascertained by keeping watch-sticks thrust into 
it fit or near the ends, and towards the middle, which an ex- 
perienced person will ascertain by pulling out the sticks, and 
feeling the heat of them by the hand ; but the most accurate 
mode, of course, is to plunge the bulb of a thermometer into 
the bed to the depth of the bottom of the pots, the heat then 
will be thereby ascertained to a sufficient nicety, which should 
now be not less than 80^ at the bottom of the pots, or if it be 
90° no harm will ensue. 

FORCING PEACHES. 

The peach-house being put in order, as directed last month, 
the trees pruned and tied, the flues cleaned, and the borders 
forked up and watered with liquid manure, the lights should 
now be finally shut up, and only opened to admit air as ne- 
cessity may require. This should be admitted in large por- 
tions while the buds are swelling, and until the blossom begins 
to expand, no harm can come over them by a free admission of 
this necessary agent, provided that the temperature be not 
allowed to fall too low ; and if frost be excludcxl, the slower 
that the sap is put into motion, the stronger will the buds 
break, and the blossom will, consequently, be stronger: the 
wood-buds will also push with greater regularity and strength. 
The temperature should not be allowed to exceed 45^ for the 
first part of the month, but be kept as near that point as pos- 
sible by the admission of air. Towards the middle of the 

4 r 



C58 



Tin: PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



month it should be f^radually raised to 50°, and by the end of 
the month to 52°. The reguhir keeping of this temperature 
is of the utmost importance to the wehare of the trees, as well 
as to ensure a crop of fruit. The times of regulation being at 
six or seven o'clock in the morning, and eight or nine at night. 
Until the blossom begins to expand, the trees should be sy- 
ringed every morning about nine, and every evening about 
four or five, when the house is shut up for the night. Water 
should be poured upon the flues at the time that they are suf- 
ficiently warm, for the purpose of producing a steam, but this 
will not be often the case, unless near the entrance of the flue 
from the furnace for some time ; however, as soon as the flues 
are sufficiently heated to keep up the required temperature, 
this steaming should be attended to every morning and even- 
ing. The borders should be kept moderately moist by water- 
ing, particularly round the flues and where they enter the 
house, being more apt to become dry there than at a greater 
distance from the heat. Great caution must be paid that the 
temperature of the house be not allowed to exceed the points 
above, for if heated to a high temperature, and then allowed 
to fall to a lower, the buds would not only push weakly, but 
would absolutely fall off'. Although we have advised syringing 
both mornings and evenings, it is not to be done in a careless 
nor inmioderate manner, but should be done with the finest 
rose upon the syringe, to act as a dew upon the branches and 
buds, to soften them, and to render their breaking more regu- 
lar. The syringe best suited f )r this purpose is that of 7?c'/V/V 
Patent Si/rin<rc, which can be purchased of any nurseryman 
or respectable ironmonger. If the garden-engine be used, or 
any of the coarser syringes commonly in use, too much water 
will be spilt upon the borders of the house, which should not 
be deluged with wet, but only kept moderately damp. If the 
borders be kept too wet, much danger will be incurred of the 
buds falling off' before they expand, and consequently a failure 
must ensue. 

Peaches have been forced by means of dung-heat in this 
country, extensively at Dagenham Park, and are also forced by 
dimg in Denmark and Holland, but we do not think that the 
practice merits general adoption. 



THE rOKCING GARDEN. 



659 



FORCING VINES. 

The vinery being put in readiness for forcing, as directed 
last month, the fires by the first of this month may be begun 
to be regularly made, but so moderate that the temperature 
may not exceed 50° or 52° for the first week, and afterwards 
55°, until every bud in the house has begun to swell. This 
is matter of vast importance in the forcing of all fruits, and 
particularly that of the vine ; for if the temperature were be- 
gun and kept up to a high point, the consequence would be, 
that only a few of the leading and strongest buds would start ; 
the greater part, particularly such as are situated next the 
bottom of the shoots, would not spring at all, and conse- 
quently the crop would be proportionably scanty. It is, there- 
fore, a leading feature of good management, that every bud 
on the vines break; not that all will probably be ultimately 
allowed to remain, but it is much easier to take off a shoot, or 
a fruit, than put one on. From the time the house is first 
shut up, the syringe should be freely used upon the branches, 
for the same purpose as hinted at in the peach-house ; namely, 
to soften the shoots and buds, and enable the latter to push 
more freely. The stems and larger branches, which were di- 
rected last month to be enveloped with rnoss or haybands, 
should be kept well and regularly moistened, by pouring water 
in a sufficient quantity upon them, for if they be kept con- 
tinually moist, the rise of the sap will be facilitated, and the 
strength and breaking of the buds greatly promoted. After 
all .the buds have evidently begun to push, or shown signs of 
vegetation, which will be observed by the loosening of that 
brownish cotton-like envelope, with which they have hitherto 
been protected, and the rudiments of the young shoot bursting 
through it, the temperature should be raised to G0°, 65°, and 
70°. This rise of temperature must not, however, be sudden, 
or the same evils which have been hitherto guarded against 
would follow, that is, the shoots would push weakly, and 
many of tlicm would not show fruit. If the rise of tempera- 
ture be cHectcd in the course of the month progressively, it 
will be good management. The borders within the house 
should be supplied with water, occasionally giving good water- 



GGO THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. \ Feb. 

ings with liquid manure. The syringe must continue to be 
used mornings and evenings freely during the whole month, 
and the house regularly filled with steam every morning by 
eight o'clock, and in the evenings soon after the fires are 
lighted, and when the flues will be sufficiently warm. When 
the fires are made up for the night, a few pot-fuls of water 
may be sprinkled over the flues, this will keep up a moist 
steam during the night. There need be no fear of overdoing 
this operation, for vines are found to break or push their buds 
best and most regularly in a humid atmosphere : indeed, 
some good gardeners introduce a quantity of unfermented 
horse-dung, or leaves, into the vinery, which they build up in 
a ridge, and by continual turning, watering, and adding to it, 
keep up a steam in their houses. This steam is of the utmost 
importance where the vines are infected with insects, as the 
steam thus produced contains a large portion of ammoniacal 
gas, which is well known to be destructive to all insects, while 
it does not injure the vines, at least before their leaves expand. 
This practice is highly conducive to the health of the plants ; 
but where neatness and order are a consideration, it may bo 
objected to, as having no very agreeable appearance, and a 
much less })leasant smell ; a substitute, however, has been 
pointed out by an eminent horticulturist and chemist, and may 
be with fewer objections applied. This substitute is formed 
by pouring a solution of crude muriate of ammonia upon quick 
lime, and the gas thus obtained may be applied with a pair of 
bellows to the plants. The gi'cat use of steam in forcing the 
vine seems to be, (no matter whether the steam be that of pure 
water, or of that combined with any of the other gases,) first 
to soften the wood and eyes, and enable them to break more 
freely ; and secondly, the destruction or prevention of insects. 
These powerful and useful eflects being produced by such 
simple means, arc not to be neglected. 

Air should be admitted freely, to strengthen the young buds 
as they are developed, and also to keep the temperature at an 
equal height. Changing the air thus daily is of the utmost 
use ; the confined air, particularly when charged with the rank 
vapour from the dung, where it is used, or that of the confhied 
air in the house where that is not even used, will soon stagnate 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



6G1 



or get foul, and should be allowed to escape, and the house 
re-charged with fresh air. 

It sometimes happens that vines, which have not been pruned 
until a short time before they are begun to be forced, as well 
as those, whose shoots may not have been fully ripened in au- 
tumn, will bleed after vegetation has begun, which, if not 
prevented, will materially weaken the vines, and injure the 
forthcoming crop. This bleeding is not easily prevented ; but, 
as in all cases, a preventive is better than a cure, it will, if it 
once happen to a gardener to any serious extent, sufficiently 
remind him of the necessity of pruning his vines in autumn, 
oon after vegetation ceases, but not till the w^ood be ripe. 
vVere this always attended to, this complaint would seldom 
require a cure. 

Many remedies for bleeding have been used. Abercrombie 
recommends searing the place over, and covering it with melted 
wax ; or with warm pitch spread upon a piece of bladder ; or 
to peel off the outside bark to some distance from the place, 
and then press into the pores of the wood a composition of 
pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the consistency of putty. 

Speechly recommends to peel off, or divest that part of the 
branch adjoining the wound of all the outside bark, then with 
a sponge to dry up the moisture, and immediately to wrap 
round the wounded part a piece of an ox's bladder, spread over 
with tar, or pitch made warm, in the manner of a plaster ; then 
tie the whole securely with a strong thread, well rubbed with 
bees'-wax : these must remain on for three weeks or a month. 

Nicol recommends searing the wound with a hot poker, or 
red-hot iron, in order to dry it, and then to apply hot wax. 

Knight, in a communication to the Ilort. Soc, recommends 
four parts of scraped cheese to be added to one part of cal- 
cined oyster-shells, or other pure calcareous earth, and this 
composition pressed strongly into the pores of the wood. 

When the vine is in full leaf, it is not liable to bleed when 
cut, therefore the largest branches may be cut during the 
growing season with safety. 

Vines are also cultivated in almost every pine-stove ; how- 
ever, the introduction of low pits for cultivating the latter, 
from the want of sufficient room, precludes the vines from 



GG2 Tin: tractical gardener. [Fch. 

those structures ; but where there are fruiting and succession- 
houses sufhciently capacious, we can see no objection to their 
bciniT introduced, as by that means, ripe grapes can be had 
nuich earher than is generally deemed necessary to have the 
principal crops in the vineries. Vines intended to be grown 
in the pine-stove should always be planted outside the house, 
and their stem introduced into the pine-house, when required 
to be put into a state of vegetation. Tluy are often, however, 
left in the house, and never taken out during the period that 
they are not in a vegetating state. We would advise, con- 
sistently with our own practice for many years, the taking 
of them out when the fruit is cut, and of course the wood 
ripened, and to train them along the front of the house to 
temporary stakes driven into the border to support them, or to 
fix them to the front of the house in such a way as not to 
create a shade, nor to be in the way of the front sashes or 
ventilators. 

They may be taken into the house any time from November 
till January, and trained o/tlt/ up the rafters, so as not to 
shade the pines during winter. Their shade during summer, 
if not allowed to ramble too much, will rather be an advantage 
to the pines than otherwise ; and we would plant vines where 
metallic houses are used, purposely to give a partial shade, with 
their leaves, to the pines. The general management as to 
pruning, thinning, and training, will be nearly similar to that 
to be described in the regular vinery, so that any separate 
directions on that head may be deemed unnecessary. 

M'Phail, and many gardeners since his time, contend that 
they should remain always in the })ine-stove, without being 
removed while they are not in a state of vegetation, and he 
gives the following directions for their management: " In the 
month of November or December, cut down all the old wood 
lo about the height of the pit, leaving only two young shoots, 
the stroni^est that can be crot : the stron^^est one to shoot from 
the buds and to bear the fruit, the other to be cut down short, 
and to grow long shoots to bear fruit the succeeding year. 
This is to be done successively, year after year, leaving the old 
stem of the vine to grow, as the older the plant is the better, 
at least the fruit will be higher flavored." 



Feb.] THE rORCiNG GARDEN. €G3 

After the vines are pruned, tie them nearly up to the glass 
with matting, to iron rods or laths fixed to the rafters on pur- 
pose. As soon as they begin to swell in their buds, and show 
themselves ready to break, let them down about a foot from 
the glass, so that they may receive the benefit of the warm air 
round about them, and not be liable to be injured by frosts. 
If the buds burst strong and bushy, it is a good sign that they 
will show fruit ; but if weak, the contrary will be the effect ; 
and if they miss showing fruit on the fourth or fifth joint, they 
will show none at all, and in that case, the young shoot that 
doos not show fruit should be broken off, as it would only take 
the nourishment from the others, which have shown fi'uit. Do 
not let more than one or two bunches grow on one bud, for if 
too many be left on the plant they will not swell well. If the 
vines be planted inside of the house, care must be taken to 
keep them sufficiently watered; and in dry weather, in the 
spring and summer, the border on the outside of the house, 
in which the roots of the vines run, should be plentifully sup- 
plied with water. 

The forcing of vines by dung-heat has been often tried, and 
has, in many cases, succeeded to the utmost expectation. In 
Holland they are very generally forced by that means in pits 
constructed for the purpose, and one spirited horticulturist has 
adopted the practice, under the direction of a Dutch gardener 
in this country. In Denmark, wooden houses are so con- 
structed, that by means of linings of hot dung applied to them, 
grapes are brought to tolerable perfection. 

In the years 1825 and 182G we practised a somewhat similar 
plan, and perfectly succeeded. Having a few vines of the 
Royal Muscadine, which annually bore immense crops of fine 
grapes upon a wall, but which seldom or ever ripened, the 
situation being adverse; we erected a temporary house the 
length of the wall, and at four feet distant from the wall put 
in a row of oaken posts, which were charred as far as they 
were covered with the mould. These posts stood two feet 
above the ground-level, and were braced together at top with 
a piece of plank two inches thick, and four broad, upon which 
the bottom of the sashes rested, as well as the rafters, which 
latter were four inches ])y two, and rested in the usual way 



6Gt Tlir rilACTKAL GARDENER. [Fcb, 

upon tlio above wall-phitc, and top of the wall, to both of 
which they were fixed by a bolt, which was so constructed 
that they could be removed at pleasure. The upright row of 
posts, above noticed, was nine feet apart, and the space between 
the ground and the top of them was left open. In front of 
this house we sunk a pit, for the linings (tf hot dung or leaves 
((he hitter generally used), four feet deep and two in widtli ; 
this cavity was supported on one side by a nine-inch brick- 
wall, and covered with wooden shutters to keep in the heat, 
and so to force both luat and steam tlirough the spaces be- 
tween the posts which supported the roof. When the dung 
was past its first strong heat, we drew part of it into the 
inside, and formed a ridge sufficient to keep up the desired 
temperature, and by adding fresh leaves or dung could keep 
up a heat sufficient to ripen grapes by the month of July. 
The internal space to be heated was so small, that we found it 
no difiicult matter to keep up a higher temperature than was 
even required. The back wall of the house, if it may be so 
called, (but which really was one of the garden-walls, against 
which the house was erected,) was only nine feet high, which 
only afforded suflTicient head-room to get in to dress the vines, 
which were planted, as already observed, upon the back wall, 
and as the heated dung forming the ridge occupied a consi- 
deral;lc proportion of the lower angle of the house, a small 
space consequently was left to be heated. By these means wc 
enjoyed all the benefits of a huuiid mild heat, so favorable 
to the vine, as well as producing those gases which are dis- 
engaged from the dung while undergoing fermentation, and 
which, though destructive to animal life, are more than pro- 
bable not uncongenial to that of vegetables. In princi})le, this 
ditfers very little from the Dutch and Danish practice, but in 
the convenience and arrangement we consider it superior, as 
tne dung or leaves are brought into this house, without opening 
any part of the structure, which, particularly in winter, is at- 
tended with inconvenience and loss of heat, and there is no 
waste of the materials used in producing the required heat, by 
theii being exposed to the changes of the atmosphere. The 
sashes were all moveable, so that whatever portion of air was 
required could be admitted, either from the outside or from 



Fc'fj.] THE FORCING GARDTA\ GG.) 

tne inside. The whole of the structure, excepting the wall of 
bricks and the row of posts, was moveable, so that when not 
required for one piece of wall, it could be carried to another. 
In this house, during the winter months, we constantly grew 
small salads, mustard, cress, &c., in shallow boxes and flat 
pans placed upon the ridge of dung. It also served for a 
hospital for sickly and diseased exotics, which, when placed 
upon the dung or plunged into it, soon recovered, if their 
diseases did not proceed from causes, to which this mode of 
treatment was not congenial. The roof was regularly matted 
up at nights, w^hcn tlie weather v»'as so severe as to require it 

In a communication to the London Hort. Soc. by Mr. An- 
derson, a method of forcing vines upon a large scale is re- 
corded, as practised by J. French^ Esq., at Hornden, Essex, 
for nearly the last twenty years. 

" About the beginning of Marcli, Mr. French commences 
his forcing by introducing a quantity of new long dung, taken 
from under the cow-cribs in his straw-yard, being principally, 
if not entirely, cow- dung, which is laid upon tlie floor of his 
house, extending nearly from end to end, and in width about 
six or seven feet, leaving only a pathway between it and the 
back walls of the house. The dung being all new at the be- 
ginning, a profuse steam rises from the first heat, which, in 
this stage of the process, is found to be beneficial in de- 
stroying the ova of insects, as well as transfusing a wholesome 
moisture over the yet leafless branches, but whicli might prove 
injurious, if permitted to rise in so great a quantity, when the 
leaves are pushed forth. In a few days, the violence of the 
steam abates as the buds open, and in the course of a fort- 
night the heat begins to diminish ; it then becomes necessary 
to carry in a small addition of fresh dung, laying it in the 
bottom, and covering it over with the old dung freshly worked 
up ; by which a renovated heat and a moderate exhalation of 
moist vapour are produced. In this manner the heat is kept 
up throughout the season ; the fresh supplies of dung being 
always laid at the bottom, in order to smother the steam, or 
rather to moderate the quantity of exhalation ; for it must 
always be remembered, that Mr. French attaches great virtue 
to the supply of a reasonable portion of the vapour. The 

4 Q 



GGG 



THE rRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



quantity of fresh tlung to be introduced at cacli turning, must 
be regulated by the greater or smaller degree of heat that is 
found in the house, as the season and other circumstances 
appear to require it. The tem})erature kept up is pretty re- 
gular, being from 65° to 70°. Mr. French contends, that the 
moist vapour transfused through the house is essentially bene- 
ficial, not only because it discourages tlie existence of insects, 
and destroys their ova, but it likewise facilitates the setting and 
welling of the fruit." 

Forcing vines by means of dung-heat, has been occasionally 
practised since the days of Justice, in Scotland, and Lawrence 
and Switzer, in England, but not much attended to till of late 
years. That it is practicable, is placed beyond all doubt ; but 
the question is, whether it be more economical than the more 
usual mode of applying fire-heat. Mr. Knight gives the fol- 
lowing directions for ripening grapes in an inclined melon or 
cucumber frame, either with dung-heat or without : — After 
placing the bed at three feet distance from the wall to which 
tlie vines were trained, and introducing their branches into 
the frame, through holes made at the north end of it (the 
vines having been trained to a southern wall), as soon as the 
first violent heat of the bed has subsided. The White Chas- 
selas grape thus treated, ripens in July, if the branches of the 
vine be introduced in the end of April, and a most abundant 
crop be thus obtained ; but the necessity of pruning very 
closely, renders the branches, which have been forced, unpro- 
ductive the succeeding season, and others from tlie walls must 
be consequently substituted. I have," he says, " always put 
a small quantity of mould in the bed, and covered it with 
tiles. If an inclined plane of earth be substituted for the hot- 
bed, and vines be trained in a frame adapted to it, the grapes 
ripen perfectly in August ; and if small holes be made through 
the sides of the frame, through which the young shoots of the 
vine can extend themselves in the open air, a single plant, and 
a fi-ame of moderate size, will be found annually to produce 
a considerable weight of grapes. For this purpose, the frames 
should not be more than eight or ten feet long, nor more than 
five or six in breadth, or the young shoots will noi be so 
advantageously conducted out of them into the open air ; and 



reh.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



667 



the depth of the frame, either for the hot-bed or for the in- 
dined plane of earth, should not be less than eighteen inches. 
The holes in the sides of the frame, through which the young 
shoots are to pass, should of course be closed during the 
spring, and till wanted ; and if the weather be cold, it will be 
necessary to cover the frames during night. When the grapes 
are nearly full grown, and begin to ripen, it will also be 
highly advantageous to draw off' the glasses during the day 
in fine weather, by which means the fruit will be exposed to 
the full influence of the sun without the intervention of the 
glass, and will attain a degree of perfection, that it rarely 
acquires in the vinery or hot-house." 

Grapes are obtained in bad seasons by covering the estab- 
lished plants upon the wall with a temporary frame of rafters, 
upon which are placed any spare lights, that by that time may 
have been removed from the early peach-houses, or other 
houses where the crops may have been gathered ; sometimes 
a temporary flue is built, to give an additional warmth, and to 
counteract the effects of damp, as well as to ensure the ripen- 
ing of the fruit, and their preservation afterwards for almost 
any length of time. In other cases, the glasses alone are 
found sufficient for the purpose of ripening the crop. 

A market-gardener near Bath, some years ago ripened 
grapes under hand-lights. In this case, the fruit remained 
within the glasses, and enjoyed the protection of the glass, 
while the shoots were allowed to extend themselves in the 
open air, by being let out of the glass on removing one of the 
panes near its top. 

A succession of ripe grapes (as described by several writers 
in the Hort. Trans.) is to be obtained by gi'owing the plants 
in pots, in very rich mould, and watered with liquid manure. 
The plants to be placed in any of the forcing-houses of suit- 
able temperature, and when ripe, removing the fruit upon the 
plants into a dry airy apartment, of a regular temperature. 
They are said to keep in this way longer in a perfect state 
than any other. Vines grown in pots have a curious appear- 
ance when loaded with fruit, and are not only useful for pro- 
longing the season of this excellent fruit, but are highly 



6G8 



THE rRACTICAL GARDENER. 



ornamental, cither in tlie houses wliere tliey are grown, or 
introthiced among exotic plants in the green-house or con- 
servatory. Ahhougli the vine in general is allowed a greater 
latitude for its roots to run into than any other of our cul- 
tivated fruits, it is nevertheless found to produce tolerable 
bunches in pots, containing not more than two cubic feet of 
mould. Pots of that size, filled with rich mould, are asserted 
by Knii^ht to be capable of nourishing a vine, which, after 
being pruned, covers twenty square feet of surface, if they 
be liberally supplied with Tujuid manure. 

The retarthng the maturation of grapes till a late season is 
as important an object to the gardener as to facilitate their 
ripening early in sj)ring, and appears to be less understood ; 
for where there is extent suHicient for the adoption of botli 
plans, grapes may be had fit for the table every day in the 
year. The sorts of vines most fit for a late crop, are not, as 
is generally the case in the culinary garden productions, fit 
also for the earliest : the case is otherwise. The Sweet-waters 
and Muscadines, and some others, arc fittest for early crops, 
requiring much less time to bring them to perfection ; whereas, 
the Muscats, Syrian, White Nice, Black Damascus, St. Peter's, 
and some others, are the fittest for late crops, requiring much 
longer time in coming to their full size, and also a consider- 
able time after attaiuuig tliat size, before they ripen, and more 
particularly their properties of remaining a long time upon the 
vines after they are lipe before they show symptoms of decay ; 
and, last of all, tJieir retaining a saccharine sweetness after 
they are considerably shrivelled up. These, therefore, should 
be made choice of for the latest crops ; and if retarded, by 
removing the lights entirely olf tlie house, so as to keep back 
the swelling of the buds till as late a season as possible ; and 
after it is no longer safe to trust the advancing buds to the 
weather, to put on the fights all night, taking them down 
during the day, so as to keep them as much exposed to the 
air as possible, and using only a little fire. While the vines 
are in bloom in autumn, when the fruit is approaching to its 
full size, give a little fire, to prevent any check to their swelling 
off, when the nights begin to get cold, during the rest of 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



G69 



autumn ; and as long as the fruit remains upon the vines, 
give only such fire-heat as will prevent the effects of clamp 
from destroying the fruit. 

The latter sorts of grapes are thus preserved till long after 
Christmas. Arkwright, a writer in the Hort. Trans., has treated 
this subject more systematically, by gradually habituating his 
vines into a state of late bearing. He chooses for that pur- 
pose the later kinds of vines, and grows them in houses 
used alternately for pines and vines. About the middle of 
February, he removes his pine-plants into another house, 
and the preceding year's crop of grapes being gathered, he 
takes down the glasses so as to admit the fi'ee access of air 
at all times till the end of April, when the buds of the vines 
begin to swell. At this time, he applies a little fire-heat 
during the night in cold or cloudy weather, and air is freely 
admitted. At this time, he again brings in his pine-plants, 
where they remain till the following February. By this late 
and slow process, the graphs do not begin to ripen till towards 
the end of October ; and some of the very late kinds not till 
Christmas. When he has occasion to introduce a young vine 
into the houses where his late grapes are grown, it is found, 
by the second or third year, to have lost its disposition to 
break into leaf at the accustomed season, although treated 
exactly like the other plants in the house. So powerful are 
the effects of habit. His general treatment of the vines, in 
regard to pruning and training, does not differ from the 
common practice. 



FORCING CHERRIES. 

The temperature in this compartment should be regularly 
attended to, and not allowed to exceed 50° by fire-heat during 
the day ; after the admission of plenty of air, it may be al- 
lowed, during the day, to reach G0°, but not higher. Air 
should be admitted regularly every day ; and when the weather 
is unfavourable for its free admission for more than one or 
two days together, let the fires be kept slightly up, to allow the 
sashes either being opened, or the ventilators, if the house be 
aired by those means ; for nothing is so injurious to cherries, 



GTO Tin: I'Kactic al gardener. \ H'Ik 

plums, and apricots, than being long kept in a close atmo- 
sphere. Water should also be regularly and moderately given 
them, but not in too large a quantity, as until the fruit be 
Tully set, they should be cautiously supplied with that element. 
After that time, they will require it in a more liberal quantity. 
The house should be regularly steamed, mornings and even- 
ings, by sprinkling water upon the flues, which will, in a 
great measure, serve for watering at the roots ; while the bud^> 
/arc swelling, and until the blossom be nearly expanded, the 
syringe should be used once a day, both for the softening of 
the buds and the suppression of insects. 

Cherries arc subject to insects both in the forcing-houses 
and on the open walls ; care, therefore, must be taken that 
they do not get a-head at this time ; for if they do, the injury 
will be considerable. The green fly will be apt to visit them 
as soon as the young shoots and leaves come out, and recourse 
must be had to fumigations with tobacco for its destruction, 
as well as the syringe, applied with all its force upon them, 
at such times as the blossom is not endangered by it. There 
is a small caterpillar, which is often very annoying in the 
cherry-house, and this must be looked for carefully ; wherever 
any of the leaves appear curled up, it is almost sure to be 
found within them ; these, for the greater security, should be 
picked oir, and carried out of the house. 

Such cherries as arc intended to be accelerated upon the 
open walls, under the glass-case recommended last month, 
should, towards the end of this month, be covered up and 
regularly attended to, in respect to air, water, Sec, in the 
same manner as already directed. 

FORCING FIGS. 

The preceding directions for cherries arc also applicable to 
figs. The temperature should be steadily kept, during ihc 
first fortnight of the month, at or nearly 50°, and gradually, 
towards the end of the month, raised to 58° by fire-heat, aU 
lowing five or seven degrees of rise by sun-heat. 

Water must be regularly supplied as the state of the plants 
may require, and air be freely admitted daily. A watchful eye 



Feb.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



G71 



should be kept for the appearance of the red spider upon tlie 
leaves, which should be expelled by force of the syringe, or 
else by sprinkling sulphur mixed with water upon the flues, 
when pretty warm, as directed last month ; however, if the 
plants be kept regularly watered, and the house ventilated, 
this enemy will not be seen ; a too dry and very high tem- 
perature is the agent that brings it into life, and water applied 
with considerable force from the syi'inge, or the application of 
sulphur, as above described, are probably the only means of 
getting rid of it: 

FORCING CUCUMBERS AND MELONS. 

If the instructions given last month under this head have 
been acted upon, and no accident has occurred to the plants, 
they will, by the end of the first week or beginning of the 
second, be fit, most probably, for planting out into the beds, in 
which they are to perfect their fruit ; however, if the plants 
be weak, which will chiefly be owing to either loo litde heat, 
or drawn up slender and long-stemmed, owing to an excess 
of heat and insufficiency of air, in either case they should not 
be finally transplanted out until they be quite strong and 
stocky. 

If such in either case be their state, it is better to defer 
their final transplanting until they be perfectly strong enough, 
which, with good management, will be by the end of the month 
at farthest. If planted out before they acquire sufficient 
strength, their future progress will be slow, and their crop 
unproductive. It often happens, from unforeseen circum- 
stances, that the seeds sown some days, or even a week after 
the first sowing, will be in a fit state for ridginfr out before 
those first sown ; in such cases, plants of that age should be 
made choice of. Throughout the whole culture of these fruits, 
the plants most rapidly grown are always the best, and will 
produce the finest fruit, and also in the greatest quantity. 
Beds for their reception, after they are removed from the seed- 
bed, should be preparing for them without delay. By the 
beginning of the month, the dung of which they are formed 
should be got in readiness; that is, it should be didy pre- 



Cu2 TIIF. rnVCYICAL CARDr.NF.R. [Fch. 

pared, l)y icpoatcJ tuniing oiul fermciUinc^, giving plenty of 
water, shor.Kl it be dry in the first instance, or heat-dry in the 
process. Tlie materials of which such beds shouhl be built, 
ought to be of the very best quality, and if leaves arc to be had, 
one-third or even one-half of them should be added. They most 
generally give out a more lasting and more regular heat than beds 
built (jfdung ah)iir. If either material be scarce, a bed ( f the 
samc'dimensic-ns may be built of fagots, heath, or any useless 
sjiray, which, being heated by means of linings of hot dung, or 
dung and leaves, will be found to answer the purpose very 
completely. Beds of this kind we have already recommended, 
and for many purposes they arc better than beds built entirely 
of dung; in such beds there is little chance of the roots of the 
plants sustaining injury by burning or over-heat. 

In either case, as the plants appear strong enough for 
ridif/pg out, let the beds be prepared for them, of the follow- 
ing dimensions. For cucumbers, their height at the back 
should not be less at this season than four and a half feet, 
and three and a half in front, that is, if they be built upon 
ground nearly level. The following reasonable method has 
been recommended by Knight, and is now very generally 
adopted. Instead rf bvi! l:'"r tlie beds upon a level piece of 




ground, he places them upon an inclined plane of earth, ele- 
vated ai)out 15°, malvinu- the bed afterwards of an equiil 
height, botli at the back and front, as in the annexed figure. 



Feb.-] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



673 



The merits of this improvement are obvious : the bed of 
fermenting matter is all of an equal thickness, and conse- 
quently will be more equally heated ; the mould in which the 
plants are planted are also of an equal thickness, a matter of 
much importance to the plants ; the angle of elevation given, 
the plane upon which the whole is built, is sufficient to present 
the glass at a proper angle to the horizon, so as to enjoy the 
greatest portion of the sun's rays at this season, when it is 
low in the horizon, which is a matter of much importance tojj 
the welfare of the plants ; this angle may be more or less, 
according to the season of beginning the forcing. The frames 
which he purposes for such beds are also like the dung-bed, of 
the same depth both at back and front. Thus the plants arp" 
placed at an equal distance from the glass, which is not the 
case with plants in frames of the usual construction. 

According to the instructions already given for building the 
seed or nursing-bed, this should also be placed upon a dry, 
and if possible, a sheltered spot, fully exposed to the morn- 
ing sun, but sufficiently sheltered from the north, east, and 
west, and the ground should be rather elevated just the size 
of the intended bed, to affi^rd greater means of applying linings, 
as well as to keep their bottoms free from water or damp. On 
no account should the beds be sunk under the surface at this 
season. According to the dimensions of the frame or frames, 
mark out tlie size of the bed, by driving in four stout stakes, 
one at each corner of the intended bed, and as nearly per- 
pendicular as possible, which will be a guide in building the 
bed. In marking out the size of the bed, let it be a foot at 
least larger on each side than the size of the frame. The 
whole being marked out, proceed to make the bed, by shaking 
and mixing the dung or dung and leaves well together, as it 
is laid on, and beat it well down with the back of the fork 
as the process goes on ; avoid treading it, as beds too much 
trodden seldom work so pleasantly, and are more liable to 
burn than such as are suflered to settle gradually of them- 
selves. In this manner proceed, until the bed has arrived at 
nearly the desired height, taking care to buikl the sides and 
ends as nearly perpendicular as possible. When within six 
iuches of the desired height, level the whole surface, and 

4.R 



674 



THE TRACTICAL GARDENER. 



upon it place six or eight inches of short dung, such as has 
lallcn upon the ground round the bed in the process of making 
it ; level the whole, and, as soon as finished, place the framcv 
and lights upon it, which should be kept closely shut down until 
the heat rise briskly. If it be slow in rising, cover the lights 
with mats for a day or two. As soon as the heat rises, open 
*he sashes a little, to let the rank steam pass freely off'. 

The beds being thus finished, and the heat sufficiently up, 
it is then in a fit state for earthing over, forming the hills for 
llie rece[)tion of the plants, &c. Before laying on the mould, 
take otr the frame and lights, and level the surface equally 
over, if much sunk into irregularities in the process of heating. 
The whole being regulated, and the frame and lights being 
replaced, proceed to cover the whole surface of the bed witlt 
rich dry light mould, which, for this purpose it is presumed, 
has been prepared during the summer, and a portion of it 
placed under cover, so as to be dry and ready for use when 
wanted. The thickness that this mould should be put on, 
need not be more than two or three inclies, just merely suf- 
ficient to prevent too much rank steam at any time filling the 
frame, lender the centre of each light, place on a little hill 
about one l)ushel of the same mould, upon which the plants 
are to be phmted as soon as the heat is sufficiently up, so as 
to warm tlie mould in the hills to a sufficient temperature. 
The higher these hills are kept the Ix^tter, so as to admit of 
sufficient space for the plants, in order that they may not touch 
the glass. 

The reason for planting the plants upon these hills, instead 
of not earthing the bed all over at once, is merely by way of 
precaution in case of violent after-heats ; in which case, it will 
more readily pass off' in steam between the hills, as well as 
offering the advantage of using the beds a few days sooner 
than if it were all earthed over at once to its full depth. Jf 
the beds should heat too violently after the plants are in, the 
roots of them can be more readily prevented from sustaining 
injury, by drawing the mould away from round the sides and 
from under the bottoms of the hills, and supplying the place 
with fresh mould. 

The beds being thus finished, in two or three days they will 



Feb,'] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



675 



be, in ordinary cases, fit for the reception of the plants. Th( 
plants, as directed in January, being planted into pots, three 
plants in each, the strongest and most stocky should now be 
chosen, and removed carefully from the seed or nursing-frame 
in a box or basket, covered over so as to prevent any accident 
in their removal from one frame to the other. The day 
previously to this final planting out, the plants in pots should 
have been gently watered, which will render the balls of mould 
round their roots less liable to fall in pieces when turned out 
of them. 

They should now be carefully turned out of the pots and 
planted in the hills, one pot of plants, that is, three plants 
into each hill ; draw the mould gently round their stems, and let 
them be planted rather deep than otherwise. The plants being 
thus planted, give the hills a gentle watering with a fine-rose 
watering-pot, sufficiently to settle the mould round their roots. 
This water, as should all such that is used for watering either 
cucumber or melon-plants at this early season, should be 
warmed, either by being placed in the frame the day preceding 
that on which it is used, or it may be rendered sufficiently 
warm by the addition of water warmed for the purpose, and 
brought as near to the temperature of the bed as possible. 
The process of planting or ridging out being thus finished, 
shut up the lights, till the steam rises again strong enough to 
require to be let out by degi'ees. 

Whether cucumbers or melons be cultivated in common 
dung-bed frames, or in pits of whatever construction, the prin- 
ciple of temperature, planting out, &c., arc the same, with 
this difference only, that some pits are so constructed that only 
a small portion of steam from the fermenting matter, citlier 
under them or from the linings by which they are heated, can 
enter into the bed. This deficiency of steam must be supplied 
J)y sprinkling water on the flues when they are sufficiently 
heated. Both cucumber and melon-plants thrive much better 
in a humid high temperature than in one that is dry, how- 
ever warm it may be ; therefore the more they can be supplied 
with that heat and humidity, the more likely are we to be 
successful in their production. 



GTG THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Feb, 

The plants being ridged out, care must be taken to supply 
them with air every day, in a greater or less quantity, as the 
weather and state of the beds may determine. In giving air 
at this season, great caution is required, so that too much is 
not given at once, as to chill the frame, and that it be pre- 
vented from blowing in too great a quantity at once, particu- 
larly when it is frosty or cold, and coming into immediate 
contact with the plants ; to prevent this evil, it is well to hang 
pieces of old thin mats over the openings, so that the current 
of air blowing through the mats may be broken before it reach 
the plants. Steam will now abound, particidarly during night, 
if the beds be of suflicient warmth ; this, although highly ne- 
cessary for the welfare of the plants, nuist not be suficred to 
abound too much so as to injure them, it will therefore be ofter. 
necessary to leave open a small portion for the admission of air 
during the night, for the more ready escape of the steam ; how- 
ever, it will always be necessary to let the ends of the mats with 
which they are covered hang over such openings, to prevent 
the entrance of cold or frosty air into the beds. These mats 
nuist, however, be so placed, as to be quite clear of the 
linings ; for if they be let too low down, they will conduct the 
noxious rank steam from them into the beds, and will, if such 
be permitted to any extent, destroy the plants. 

The principal object now to be attended to, is to support 
u constant steady growing heat in the bed, so as to keep the 
^)lants from sustaining any check in their growth. To attain 
a sulKciency of heat, it is necessary to attend to the heat of 
the bed; and when the first symptom of its declining appears, 
let linings of prepared hot dung be applied, sufficiently strong 
to re-invigorate the declining heat of the bed. If the weather 
be moderately mild, and the materials of which the beds are 
formed be good, a little protection laid round the sides of the 
bed, of dry straw, bean-haulm, fern-fronds, or the like, not of 
themselves to throw any heat into the bed, but to protect it 
from the external cold air or cutting winds, may yet be suf- 
ficient. This precaution being applied in proper time, the 
heat may be sufficiently retained in the beds for some days 
longer, and the necessity of ai)plying the linings of hot dung 



Feb.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



G77 



may therefore be postponed a little longer ; but too much de- 
pendence should not be placed upon this covering ; for if the 
bed once becomes cold, the plants will sustain a very serious 
injury before it is possible to get up the temperature again 
sufficiently strong. Should the linings, when aj^plied, at any 
time raise too much heat into the bed, they can be drawn a 
little back all round the frame, so as to allow the escape of 
their heat, and be again placed close when it is necessary to 
admit greater heat. 

A bed properly put up, if of good materials, should last, 
with a little protection, as hinted at above, for three weeks, 
but seldom longer at this season. Without the aid of linings, 
it will often happen, however, that beds of excellent materials 
will not retain a sufficient heat so long. At all times, and 
under all circumstances, this is only to be ascertained by a 
daily examination of the beds. 

For the first three or four weeks after planting out, great 
attention should be paid that the roots of the plants sustain no 
injury from over-heats ; for it not unfrequently happens, that 
beds put up for some time, and when even earthed all over 
to their full depth, will heat a second time so violently, as to 
render the plants, when even well established, in great danger 
of being burnt at their roots. To guard more effisctually 
against such accidents, many persons place a piece of turf 
under the hills before they are formed, and this precaution may 
^2 attended to as the trouble is not great ; but the most effec- 
tual means of preventing burning at the roots, is by a daily 
examination of the mould at their roots : when that appears 
dried up, or has too much beat in it, which can be always 
readily ascertained by thrusting in the hand, the mould so 
dried, or over-heated, should be gently removed, and re- 
placed with frcsli, as already observed. The hills may also 
be reduced as much as possible, leaving them just sufficient 
basis to stand upon, without danger of falling ; in this state 
they may remain till all danger of burning be over, when the 
mould may be again replaced to their original size. 

If every thing has succeeded, in the course of eight or ton 
days the young roots will be beginning to show thenjselves a!l 
round the hills: this is looked upon as the first symptom ot 



(378 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



tlic plants being in a state of progi'essive welfare. When 
such roots appear, let a little mould be laid over them, to the 
lliickness of three-quarters of an inch, or an inch and a half 
at most. Such mould should be of the same quality as that 
of which the hills are formed, and for this purpose should 
have been in the bed for a day or two, so as to have attained 
a temperature equal to that of the rest of the mould in the 
iVaine. It is well not to put too much of this mould round 
the roots at once; a little should only be put at a time, and 
that often repeated, and upon the appearance of the roots this 
should not be neglected. Towards the end of the month, if 
the plants were planted out towards the beginning, the shoots 
\» ill be making fust progress ; and if the first bud, while yet 
in its embryo state, was picked out at the time of potting-off, 
or, if not then done, when they were ridgeJ out, one, two, or 
])r<.»bably three shoots will now be formed, which, as they ad- 
vance, should be stopped ; that is, by pinching off the point 
of each shoot a little above the first or second eye or bud : 
this will cause them to throw out lateral shoots, and from the 
first or second joints of such lateral shoots, fruit will most 
probably show. If such should not, however, be the case, 
these shoots, in their turn, should be topped or shortened in 
like manner, and so on until fruit or female flowers ap- 
pear. This will not only throw the plants into a state of 
greater fruitfulness, but will also render the plants more strong 
and stocky. Such runners now formed by this first pruning, 
will most probably show fruit at their first, second, and third 
joints. In many cases, where the principal shoot or runner is 
not thus stopped, it will probably run three, four, or six feet, 
without showing fruit, or without throwing out side or lateral 
shoots to fill the bed with vines. As the vines (as they are 
technically termed) or runners proceed in their growth, let 
them be stopped when running too far without showing fruit ; 
and as they advance, be neatly and regidarly trained down to 
the surface of the mould by small hooked pegs, to keep them 
in their respective places, and keep them close to the mould, 
so that, as they advance, they may emit roots to strengthen 
themselves and afford nourishment to tlie fruit. 

No further pruning will be necessary for them until they are 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



C79 



in a bearing stare, except any vines, which appear weak or 
ill-placed, or where they may be too much crowded, such only 
should be entirely displaced. When it becomes necessary to 
remove any such shoots, pinch them neatly off with the finger 
and thumb, in preference to using the knife ; but if the knife 
should be used, let the shoot so amputated be bruised between 
the finger and thumb, so as to stop or prevent too great a 
share of sap, or in other words, the blood of the plants, from 
escaping. 

If the plants have been well managed, and no accident has 
taken place, fruit will be showing in abundance upon the cu- 
cumber plants. The melons, from their nature, will not show 
for some time yet, most generally some weeks afterwards. 
When the female flowers appear, which will be readily distin- 
guished from the male flower, the former always having at 
their base the rudiments of the future fruit, the latter having 
no such appendage, but merely a simple flower containing the 
stamina, with the fertilizing dust, pollen, or farina, covering 
the tips of the stamina or male parts of fructification. When 
such flowers appear, the important oflice of assisting impreg- 
nation falls to the care of the cultivator, and should not be 
neglected. 

The work of impregnation, or setting the fruit, as it is tech- 
nically called, is, as Abcrcromby very justly observes, a most 
important operation of art incumbent on the gardener, par- 
ticularly in the early cultivation of these plants, while wholly 
confined in frames, as at this time the operations of nature 
are almost excluded. This should be done accordingly as the 
flowers, both male and female, come into full bloom ; and it Is 
performed by injecting the farina or male dust into the stigma 
or female part of the fructification. Plants, which contain the 
male and female parts of fructification within the same flower, 
and are hence called hermaphrodites ^ do not require in most 
cases this care ; but such as have these organs placed in dif- 
ferent flowers, are therefore less likely to be fecundated without 
artificial means, particularly when confined in the close at- 
mosphere of a common hot-bed, and at so early a period of 
the year when few or no insects are in existence to carry the 
impregnating matter from one flower to another. Such plants 



G80 Tlir. rilACITCAL OAIlDrXER. l^^'^^- 

arc called monrvcini/s plants, from the circumstance of their 
respective or;rans hoiiicj placed each in one distinct flower. 
Unless the female flower, which generally carries at its base 
the rudiments of the young fruit, be imprcii^natcd with the 
pollen or farina of the male, the young fruit will constantly 
turn yellow, and drop soon after they have flowered. 

In summer, when the plants are fully exposed, the gentle 
breezes of wind, and the dilicrent winged insects roaming from 
flower to flower, carrying upon their wings the fertilizing dust 
from one flower to another, will, for the most part, perform 
this ofhcc without the care of the cultivator. But in spring, 
and during the winter months in particular, when small por- 
tions of air can only be admitted, and when no bees or other 
flying insects inhabit the frames, the necessity of artificial 
impregnation becomes absolutely necessary, by carrying the 
male to the female blossoms in the following manner : — ■ 

At the time when the flowers of both sexes are fully ex- 
panded, or the day after at liu'thcst, the male blossoms, which 
are easily distinguished from the female, as noticed above, (no 
appearance whatever being shown of their having the rudi- 
ments of fruit attached to their base,) gather such of the best 
male blossoms as appear strong, and with them a portion of 
the peduncle or flower-stalk, about an inch in length, by 
which to hold the flower in one hand, while with the other 
pull off the petals or corolla {f//e colored leaves of thejiowcr) 
carefully from abcnit the stamina and antheric ; then, still hold- 
ing the flower by the peduncle between the flngcr and thumb, 
apply the anthenc, or top of the stamina, to the centre of the 
three stigmats of the female flower, and turn it about two or 
three times, that it may discharge or inject a sufficient portion of 
the pollen or farina into the said stigmats or female organs, and 
then throw it away, using a fresh male flower for every female 
one operated upon, unless the male blossoms be scarce, (but 
this is seldom the case,) when one male flower may be suflicicnt 
for several females. 

It may sometimes occur early in the season, that female 
flowers may appear when there are no male ones wherewith 
to impregnate them; this v. ould be a mortifying circumstance 
indeed, and recourse must then be had to other plants in the 



Feb.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



681 



same gardens ; but if it should so happen that there are none, 
in this case male flowers may be brought from a distance, 
carefully packed up in paper, and kept quite dry ; and with 
them, the important office may be performed. Some gardeners 
leave the male flowers attached to the female until they drop 
out of their own accord ; but this is unnecessary, for if both 
blossoms be fully formed, the office of impregnation will be 
completely j^erformed in a few seconds. The middle of the 
day should always be preferred for this purpose. If there be 
a brisk growing heat in the beds, the fruit will, in a few days 
after impregnation, show evident signs of the approaching 
maturity. If the beds be in good management, and the fruit 
of a good kind, the blossom will continue attached to the fruit, 
often till it be fit for use, which is, when they are from five 
to six inches long. Some kinds wWl grow so rapidly, under 
excellent management, as to attain the length of twelve or fif- 
teen inches with it still attached to them. Early in the season, 
it should be an established rule to set every promising flower 
as it comes into full bloom ; and the critical moment seems to 
be the early part of the first day on which the blossom opens. 
Water should not be given them immediately after the setting 
of the blossom. The male blossoms often grow in large clus- 
ters upon the vines, and these should be thinned out, leaving 
a sufficient number only to ensure the setting of the crop. 
These should not, however, be entirely removed, as without 
them there would be no fruit. As the blossom fades, it should 
be picked up and thrown out of the beds, as being apt to 
damp and injure the vines. 

It will be necessary for successional crops of melons and 
cucumbers, as well as to guard against accidents which may 
attend the young plants now in seed-pans or potted-off, that 
a few seeds be occasionally sown in the frames or pits now at 
work. Such as were sown at the beginning of this month, 
will, under good management, be in fruit by the end of March 
or the beginning of April ; and those sown about the middle 
or end of this month, will also be in fruit by the end of April, 
and will be in full bearing during May and Ji^ne. Few cul- 
tivators sow melons for general crops before the beginning or 
middle of this month ; as those sown sooner, if they v/ithstand 

4s 



G82 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



the inclemency of the weather, will come into fruit before there 
be sufficient sun to give them a pro{>er flavor. No fruit that 
we cultivate requires more of the influence of that soul of ve- 
getable life than the melon. A bed or two, however, in large 
families, may be brought in sooner, but their flavor will not 
be so fine as those which are ripened during July and August. 
Such sorts only should be sown for the earliest crops as will 
require less time to come to ]x^rfection ; and of these, the early 
Canteloupes are to be preferred. The directions hitherto giveji, 
as regard the sowing, potting-off", and ridging out of cucum- 
bers, are also applicable to melons ; with this diflerence only, 
that beds for the latter fruits should be built a foot at least 
higher, and a brisker heat kept up to them during their whole 
culture, and the mould in which they are grown should be 
much stronger than for cucumbers, and as it is added to their 
roots, it should be firmly trodden, so as to be as solid a? pos- 
sible ; but care must be taken in doing this, that their roots 
be neither bruised nor broken in the process. When melons 
begin to show fruit, great attention should be paid to them, 
that the office of impregnation be not neglected; for although 
cucumbers will sometimps, even at this early period of the 
season, come to tolerable perfection without this assistance, 
and often after^^'ards, melons will not set freely at any period 
without it; and should they occasionally set and swell to an 
ordinary size, they never will accjuire that beauty nor flavor 
which they would if impregnated; they will also often go oft 
when half grown, and will always be deformed and without 
flavor, 

FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 

Successional crops of strawberries should be brouglit Into 
the forcing department, both at the beginning and also at the 
end of the month. Where many pots are to be forced, and 
wdiere a constant supply is wanted, attention should be paid to 
such as were taken in last month, and as they advance, let them 
be abundantly supplied with air and water ; both of which are 
essentially necessary to them in every stage of their growth. 



• 

THE rORCING GARDEN. 



683 



FORCING ASPARAGUS. 

Successional beds should be prepared for asparagus, both 
at the beginning and also at the end of the month. (For direc- 
tions see last month.) 

FORCING FRENCH OR KIDNEY-BEANS. 

Kidney-beans succeed well, if planted in large pots, and 
placed in any of the forcing-houses, where a sufficient tempe- 
rature is kept up ; that of the pine-stove is the best suited for 
their production. They should be sown in shallow pans or 
boxes, and when two or three inches high, transplanted into 
pots of one foot diameter at their top, three or four plants in 
each pot, and placed upon shelves as near the glass as pos- 
sible, so that they may enjoy a sufficient share of light. In 
all situations, French-beans require a rich soil ; for this pur- 
pose, the pots should be half filled with good rotten dung, 
and upon this the young plants should be placed, covering 
their roots an inch or two w^ith rich light mould ; and as they 
advance in growth, let fresh mould be added to their stems, 
until the pots be filled to the top. They should be liberally 
supplied with water at their roots, and often sprinkled over the 
top, as they are extremely liable to be infested with the red 
spider. As they advance in growth, they should be supported 
with small branches stuck round them, to prevent their being 
broken. In such situations, under ordinary good manage- 
ment, plentiful crops of this esteemed vegetable may be ob- 
tained during the greater part of the winter, and all the spring 
months, until they can be procured in the open borders. 
Sometimes pits and frames are used to produce this crop ; but 
where there is the advantage of a pine-stove, they can be 
more conveniently procured. 



68i 



THE TRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



MARC 11. 

NURSING PINE-PLANTS. 

In tlie course of this month, when the weather is fine, tliis 
department of the pinery will require to be examined, as was 
done to tlie fruitiiig-plants last month. The heat may now 
be on the decline, and require to be renewed, by trench- 
ing the whole bed over, and taking out such as may be much 
exhausted of the tan or leaves, and replacing it with fresh. 
Tlic directions given for the fruiting-plants, as far as regards 
shifting the tan or leaves and replacing the plants, are appli- 
cable to the young pine-plants at this time. As the plants are 
taken out of the bed in which they are plunged, each should 
be neatly tied up with a piece of fresh matting, to prevent the 
leaves from being broken or injured, as well as for the greater 
convenience of handling them. In performing this operation, 
one person should gather up the leaves between his hands 
gently, so as not to pull the plants out of the pots, and hold 
them moderately tight, while another binds them up with fresh 
strings of matting; sometimes it is necessary to put two or 
even three several strings of matting round them, to keep up 
all their leaves. This should be particularly attended to at 
all times that the plants are removed ; for, without this pre- 
caution, the leaves would be unavoidably broken, bruised, or 
otherwise injured, and the operators would not be able to per- 
form the potting, ivc, with so much expedition if they were 
left untied. When it occurs that a plant stiuids loose in the 
pot, it then should be supported by a neat stick, which will 
prevent it from being farther loosened, and will be a certain 
sign of its requiring to be re-potted. 

As a gi*eat many will require to be now shifted, it will be 
necessary to have in readiness a sufficient quantity of proper 
mould, prepared previously, and kept dry in a shade for this 
purpose, as well as a sufficient number of pots, of the different 
sizes likely to be required, to suit the size and circumstances o. 
the plants. All things being in readiness, the plants should 



Mar.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



685 



be examined, and all that require shifting should be selected 
and turned out of the pots, carefully placing one hand^level 
with the surface of the mould in the pots, with the stem of 
the plant between the fingers, while with the other hand 
take the pot by the bottom, and invert it, striking the margin 
of the pot upon the edge of the potting-bench, so as to shake 
out the ball entire. The balls that are much exhausted at 
this time, should be carefully broken, and the roots singled 
out, and such as are decayed cut off, as well as some of the 
less strong and unhealthy roots ; the decayed leaves round the 
stem should also be displaced, which will encourage the plants 
to push out fresh roots near the surface of the pot. The sizes 
of the pots used must be entirely regulated by the size and 
strength of the plants ; for it is an erroneous notion that they 
should be shifted into pots bearing any proportion to those out 
of which they were taken. All strong growing healthy plants 
should be placed in pots of larger size, and such as are weak, 
ill-rooted, or sickly, should be put into pots of the same size as 
those from which they were taken, and, in some cases, in pots 
much less. The smaller the pots into which weak plants are 
put, the more likely are they to become strong. Fresh pots should < 
be used for the plants which are shifted ; and by no means use 
such as have been recently emptied, until they have lain for some 
time to sweeten. The pots should also be dry, and have (if 
not new) been previously cleaned. In potting plants of any 
kind, avoid using pots too large, for it is much better to shift 
the plants again in a month or six weeks, than to over-pot 
them at once. In draining the pots, use oyster-shells, if they 
can be conveniently procured : place one of them on the bot- 
tom of each pot, over the hole, with the concave side under- 
most; they will prevent the entrance of v/orms, which often 
become troublesome to pine-plants, particularly when the bed 
in which they are plunged becomes too far exhausted. Over 
the oystcr-shcll place an inch of broken pieces of pots, or 
brick-bats broken small, and over this place aa inch of half- 
rotten turf from the surface of some rich down, or sheep-walk ; 
the broken tiles or brick-bats will act as a drain, to admit of 
the escape of any superfluous moisture ; and being themselves 
of an ibsorbcnt nature, they will imbibe a share of moisture, 



€80 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



which they will impart to tlie roots when they enter amon«r 
them. The rotten turf will also alFord additional nourishment 
to the roots, and will prevent the drain under them from being 
choked up by the finer earthy particles washed down in the 
})rocess of watering. The roots seem to delight in entwining 
round the broken fragments of pot5, or small pieces of bricks, 
and will be found, upon examination, to be always in a healthy 
state, in proportion as these abound in the pots. For larger 
pots, a greater depth of these fragments should be used, in 
proportion to the size of the pots. In potting the plants, 
after the roots are all separated and trimmed, place a handful 
of mould in the bottom of the pot over the rotten turf, upon 
which jdace the plant ; and while it is held upright by one 
hand, with the other fill the pot with mould up to the toj>, 
pulling up the plant occasionally, so as to allow the mould to 
fill all the spaces amongst the roots, as well as to place it at 
a proper depth in the pot. When it is full of mould, beat 
the pot upon the potting-bench two or three times, so as to 
shake the mould more compactly together ; do not press the 
mould too tightly together with the hand, particularly if it be 
damp ; a very slight pressure round the sui'face will be suf- 
ficient, and that merely to regulate the mould to a proi)er 
depth under the level of the margin of the pot, so as to leave 
a space for the purpose of holding water. The plants being 
potted, give them a slight watering at their roots, merely to 
settle the mould about them ; a more general watering will be 
given when they are again placed in the bed. 

Presuming the bed to be now in readiness for them, which 
should have been preparing while the shifting of the plants 
was going on, proceed exactly in the same manner to replungc 
Ithem, as was directed last month for the fruiting-plants, begin- 
ning with the largest and tallest plants in the back row, and 
so proceeding until the whole be again replaced in the bed ; 
the smaller and sometimes the unpotted crowns and suckers 
occupying the rows next die front, not only that they may en- 
joy more light and air, but also be more conveniently got at 
in the course of the succeeding month, when many of them 
will require to be potted in mould, and being thus placed in 
ih- front, they can be conveniently got at without disturbing 



THE 'FORCING GARDEN. 



G87 



the arrangement of the wliole. When the process of plunging 
is finished, clean out the interior of the house, and leave it in 
a neat and orderly state. Go over the plants with a sharp 
knife, and holding the pieces of matting which were used to 
tie up the plants between the edge of the knife and the thumb, 
cut them through, and remove them, regulating any leaves 
that may happen to lie in an irregular position, drawing the 
hand gently up between them, they will then fall down in 
their natural position ; and this being done, give the whole a 
good watering at their roots, and in the course of another day 
or two, if the weather ])e clear and dry, give the plants a good 
washing over-head from the syringe, to clear them of the dust 
or filth which they may have contracted during their shifting. 

The plants will now be beginning to grow ; the temperature 
should therefore be kept up to 70°, the times of regulation 
being generally at six o'clock in the morning and at eight or 
nine at night. As the weather will now be getting more tem- 
perate, and the plants be in a state of active vegetation, air 
must be admitted during the forenoon of every day copiously. 
The health of the plants now depends upon a free admission of 
air, plenty of water at their roots, and frequently over-head, 
with a steady degree of temperature. The thermometer in the 
hottest sunshine should not be allowed to exceed 90°, but be 
kept at and under that point, by the admission of plenty of 
air. As the plants get established in their pots, and are grow- 
ing rai^idly, every third or fourth day, water should be given 
at their roots in ordinary quantities ; and if occasionally richly 
impregnated with sheep-dung, the plants will be thereby greatly 
benefited. Attention should now be particularly paid to the 
regular steaming of the house every morning and evening, by 
pouring water upon the flues and floors of the house ; indeed, 
a moist and high temperature from this time till autumn, 
seems to be the most congenial atmosphere for pines to live in, 
and in such a climate few insects will visit them. 

SUCCESSION PINE-PLANTS. 

This department will also now require a similar regulation, 
as above direc ted for the nursing-pit. The plants being taken 



688 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



out, tied, and examined according to tlie preceding directions, 
such as require to be shifted shoukl be done in the same way, 
and placed in pots corresponding in size to their respective 
sizes and growths ; observing not to pot them in too large 
pots, but rather to calculate upon again shifting them in April 
or May. Indeed, no such thing as a regular and inchscrimi- 
nate shifting should take place at any time ; for circumstances 
occur so often in the habits and constitutions of plants, that 
to attempt to sh.ift them at stated periods, and into certain 
sized pots, only defeats the object in view. All plants should 
be provided with larger pots and more nourishment just as 
they stand in need of it. It is often of nuich advantage to 
plants to be taken out of the pot in which they grow, and re- 
placed into one of the same size, and not unfrequcntly into 
one of lesser size. The size of the pots must always be left 
to the good sense of the cultivator. It is, however, of more 
injury to them to be over than under-potted. In large pots, 
plants become cloyed with too much nourishment ; and as the 
plant, by its absorbent organs, is unable to extract all the 
nourishment contained in a large pot, it soon stagnates and 
becomes sour by being kept too damp, particularly when 
plunged ; as in that state the superfluous water is prevented 
from passing off through the sides of the pot, which would 
not be so sensibly the case, if the pot stood exposed on all 
sides. It is a well-known fact to cultivators, that all plants 
strike roots most readily when placed next the sides of the 
pots in which they are planted ; and many plants, that cannot 
be induced by almost any other means to strike root, will 
emit them by cuttings, when the base of such cuttings rests 
upon the bottom of the pots, without the least particle of 
mould intervening. In order, tiiercfore, to procure healthy 
rapid growing plants, which is tlie ambition of every pine 
cultivator, it is necessary to induce them to multiply their 
roots, and no method appears so rational as growing them in 
small pots ; and as they advance in growth, continue to shift 
them into larg(er, taking care not to injure the roots in the 
operation, but to continue them in a growing state. The 
plants being shifted,, according to their several necessities, they 
are then to be re-plunged in the same manner as directed for 



Mar.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



0)89 



the fruiting-plants last month, observing to give them plenty 
of room in the bed, that they may enjoy sufficiency of air and 
sunshine. The temperature should be kept as steadily as pos- 
sible from 65° to 70°, and air should be admitted daily, in 
proportion to the state of the weather ; and should the air of 
the pits become low, in consequence, for a few hours, it will be 
of far less injury to the plants than if kept more uniform and 
the stagnant air allowed to remain unchanged. 

FRUITING PINE-PLANTS. 

This department being regulated as directed in February, 
little else will require to be done than supplying them with 
fresh air and plenty of water, both at their roots and also 
over-head in clear weather, never allowing the steaming to be 
neglected every morning and evening. There is something so 
congenial in a fine humid atmosphere to the nature of the 
pine, that it is seldom found in perfection where this practice 
is entirely disregarded ; and no method appears to us to pro- 
duce this humidity so readily as that of creating a steam from 
the flues by pouring water upon them. The plants should 
occasionally be watered at their roots with liquid manure ; as 
from this time, until they have swelled their fruit nearly to its 
full size, they will require every nourishment which can pos- 
sibly be given to them. As they proceed in the formation of 
their fruit, they will be materially assisted by forming a ring 
of turf, equal in circumference to that of the pots in which 
they are placed, two or three inches thick, and this part should 
be placed upon the top of the pots, and thereby, as it were, 
increasing their size. The hollow formed by this addition to 
their size, should be filled up with rich maiden loam, and 
sheep or other rich dung well incorporated, and this top 
dressing will encourage them to emit fresh roots from the bottom 
of their stem, upon which, if there be any useless or decaying 
leaves, they should be removed ; by which means the emission 
of such roots is facilitated. The temperature of the house 
should now be gradually raised to 73° or 76°, allowing the 
temperature in sunshine to rise to 80°, and from that to 90°, 
during the middle of the day, but not to exceed 90° as a 

4 T 



G;)0 TIIL rilACTKAL GARDENER. [Mar. 

Uluximiim. If llic weather bo dull and cloudy, it may be ne- 
ec'ssary, by aid of fire-heat through the day, to raise the tem- 
perature at least to 80° ; at which it can be regulated for a 
few hours daily by the admission of air. It is necessary thus 
far to imitate nature by keeping the tcm})crature tlnoughout 
the day, either by sun or fire-heat, several degrees above the 
night temperature ; for nothing can be so injurious to any plant 
in ail artificial climate, as to keep up a high temperature durin** 
tlie night, and upon the first sight of the rise of temperature 
by sun-heat to throw open the house, thereby keeping nearly 
an equality of temperature day and night, or rather keeping 
the temj^eralure of the night higher several degrees than thnt 
of the day, whereas the very opposite ought to be the case. 
This circumstance was not unnoticed by that great ])hysi()lo- 
gistMr. Knight, when his attention was particularly directed to 
pine growing ; and his observations upon this very subject, are 
more rational and just than almost any other of his directions 
for cultivating the pine. 



FORCING PEACHES. 

By the beginning of this month the peach-trees will be in 
blossom, if the directions laid down in the preceding months 
have heen projx^rly attended to. The temperature now should 
be gradually raised from 52^ to 55°, at which point it should 
stand about the second week in the month, and remain at that 
temperature during the remainder of the m/3nth. Air should 
now be freely admitted to strengthen the peach-blossom, nnd 
ensure their setting, not only by adding to them strength, but 
also by assisting in the dispersion of the farina, or male fer- 
tilizing dust of the anthers, or male parts of the fructification, 
upon the female organs ; for without such impregnation the 
blossom would prove abortive, and no fruit would conse- 
quently follow. The trees, during the period that their blos- 
som is expandeil, Lannot be supplied with water by the syringe 
so bountifully as previous to their expansion, therefore the 
steaming of the house should not be neglected ; for although 
any superabundant supply of water, either at their roots or 
over their branches, would materially injure the more delicate 



Mar.-] 



THE FORCING GAKDEN. 



GDI 



parts of the fructitication, a dry close atmosphere would be 
v'qually injurious. The fine dews produced by the simple 
operation of , steaming, will keep the plants in vigour and 
strengthen their bloom, until the fruit be set, which will be 
accomplished in a few days after the blossom has attained its 
full size, and will be readily ascertained by the young fruit 
appearing like a small swelling at the base of the style, or fe- 
n)ale organ. All the blossoms in the house will not, however, 
set at the very same time, a few days allowance must be made 
for such parts as are more remote from the glass or heat ; but 
when the fruit has evidently set, the application of the syringe 
should be again had recourse to. The first two or three days 
of syringing, the quantity given should not be large, and 
should be applied with the finest cap upon the syringe, so as 
to resemble a strong dew more than a rain. When all danger 
is over of injuring the young fruit, or the late expanding blos- 
som, the second coarser cap should be put upon the syringe, 
and the water given with some force to displace the remains 
of the decayed bloom, and to clear the trees of dust and the 
first symptoms of insects, which will be sure to make their ap- 
l)earance before the leaves have attained half their size. It is 
of much consequence to suppress these intruders at as early 
a period as possible ; thereby preventing them from getting 
a-head and injuring the trees in their most tender state. 

The red spider will be entirely subdued and completely kept 
under, by a timely and unsparing application of water from 
the syringe, using it from the right-hand end of the house, 
and again from the left, so that both sides of all the leaves 
may be subjected to its effects ; this will destroy those which are 
already formed, and so completely derange their webs upon 
the back of the leaves, that they will not be likely again to make 
their appearance ; and should they even gain possession, a little 
sulphur may be sprinkled upon the flues when at the great- 
est heat ; but this must be done with great caution, from fear 
of injuring the tender foliage. It is generally the few days on 
which the watering is suspended in consequence of the bloom, 
that enables the spider to burst into existence, while the leaves 
are rather dry ; but after the watering is resumed, it will be 
an evident sign of a deficiency of that element if the niseet 



602 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mar, 

makes its appearance again, at least until the watering be again 
suspended, while the fruit is ripening. When it makes its 
appearance only in parts of the house, and not generally, a 
little sulphur may be ignited under the parts affected; but, as 
remarked above, this must not be done in a careless manner. 

The green fly will also make its appearance, whether the 
watering be supplied in sufficient abundance or not; and such 
as are left, after being once picked over, (such shoots being 
as well removed, if they can be spared, after being once at- 
tacked by them) will be readily destroyed by fumigation with 
tobacco. As prevention is always much better than the best 
remedy, it will be adviseablc to give the trees a slight fumi- 
gation twice a week, from the time the first wood-buds break 
into leaf until all danger of their attacks be over, which gene- 
rally takes place when the leaves have attained their full size, 
and are become rather hard and strong, the tips of the shoots 
then only being subject to these enemies, which can in many 
cases be cleared by the hand ; or the evil may be remedied by 
applying a little smoke from a common tobacco-pij^e, blowing 
it from the bowl close to the shoot infected, or from the fumi- 
gating bellows. 

When the young fruit has attained the size of full-grown peas, 
the process of disbudding should be attended to, for which sec 
T/ic Fruit Garden. No thinning, however, of the fruit need 
take place this month, at least not until the end of it. Water 
must not yet be too profusely given to the roots until the fruit 
has begim to take its first swelling, as it is generally termed 
by gardeners, and even then, not in so great a quantity as to 
sour the borders or keep the roots too damp ; for, until the 
fruit has formed their stones or kernels, any unnecessary sup- 
ply of moisture would be apt to make them drop off. The 
borders, if not mulched with rotten dung, should once a week 
be watered with the draining of the dunghill, or liquid ma- 
nure ; and this being moderately supplied, in addition to such 
as falls from the trees in syringing, and from the flues while 
steaming, will generally be found sufficient, unless near the 
flues, which should be kept moist. 



Mar.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



GD3 



FORCING VINES. 

The directions laid down for the management of this de- 
partment last month being adhered to, the same should be 
continued until the vines come into bloom. After that time, 
the temperature should be increased to 75° ; and the process 
of watering the borders and steaming the house, by pouring 
water upon the warm flues, should now be particularly at- 
tended to, so as to keep the house in rather a damp than a 
dry state. As vines are found to set their fruit best in a high 
temperature and moist atmosphere, the steaming becomes 
therefore the more necessary, particularly at this time, as it 
would be dangerous to use the syringe upon their branches 
until the fruit be set. The parts of fructification in vines arc 
so small, that to an inattentive observer they are out of flower, 
and their fruit set before they are remarked ; the applica- 
tion, therefore, of water by a syringe, or in any other manner 
than by a process of steaming, would be liable to injure, if 
not totally destroy the tender parts of the blossom. 

Air need not be so freely admitted now as formerly, nor as 
will be necessary at a future period ; a moderate circulation 
by the sashes or by the ventilators will be quite sufficient, 
observing to admit it only by small openings in cold windy 
v»eather. Ventilation is not best effected by opening the sashes 
or ventilators at any time, to any great extent, for if tlio top part 
of the sashes or top ventilators be only opened a few inches, 
and the lower ones in about the same proportion, the heated 
air, which is confined chiefly to the top of the house, will ra- 
pidly escape, as, in consequence of its being heated, it is much 
lighter than that of the atmosphere, and the atmospheric air 
will rush in from the front or lower ventilators, to fill up the 
vacuum produced by the escape of that which is lighter, and 
which has escaped at the top of the houses. Thus a sufficient 
change of air is effected without opening the house at any time 
to any great extent. 

As the young shoots advance, they must be regularly ex- 
amined and pruned ; those which have pushed a few joints, 
and have shown one or two bunches, should be stopped at 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



the second joint above tlic fruit ; which stoppinir is pci-formetl 
by pinching the tender slioot asunder with the finger and 
thumb. All necessary pruning in the vinery or peach-house 
during summer, is to be effected in a similar manner without 
using the knife, by which a bruised wound is produced, which 
is not so apt to bleed as one which is produced by the cut ot 
a knife. It is on this principle that gardeners are in the con- 
stant habit of bruising the shoots of melons and cucumber* 
with the fhiger and thumb, after pruning them with a knife, 
to answer the same purpose ; and this method seems to have 
been practised for an unknown length of time. Such shoots 
as produce no fruit, and are not intended to be retained for a 
supply of young bearing-wood for the succeeding year, are to 
he rubbed off quite close to the old wood from which they 
issued : thus clearing the vines of all superfluous and useless 
wood, which, if not removed, would rob the necessary wood 
'eft for succeeding purposes, as well as materially injure the 
crop, and cause a great degree of confusion. 

The shoots to be chosen for the production of the crop next 
season, should be now selected from the strongest and best- 
fornvnl shoots having no fruit, and which, from their luxuriant 
appearance, are likely to attain considerable size : these should 
be tied into the trellis as they advance in growth, to prevent 
them being broken, and so arranged as not to crowd the rest 
of the shoots of the vines. All shoots that spring from the 
old wood should be entirely displaced, as well as some of the 
more weak of those which have shown bunches of fruit, if there 
be plenty of stronger near them, so as to prevent all unnecessary 
confusion and shade. The vines will require to be gone over 
every other day, until all the shoots have extended so far as 
to determine wlicther they are to produce fruit or not ; and 
this examination will require to be continued for some time 
after the fruit has set, as such shoots which have been short- 
ened will be apt to throw out lateral or side shoots, which 
should be removed above their first joint from the fruit-bearing 
branch. 

In tying the fruit-bearing shoots to the trellis, but more 
particularly the shoots intended to remain for next season, 
observe to allow plenty of room in the matting to allow the 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



695 



slioots swelling to twice the size which tliey may have now 
attained. The tendrils, which are meant hy nature for the 
vines to support themselves when growing naturally, are use- 
less in the vinery, and only tend to create confusion, they 
should therefore be all pinched off, in order that they may not 
rob the fruit of any of their nourishment. 

The opinions of practical and experimental men differ widely 
in regard to the best mode of training the vine ; but in what- 
e\er way it is or can be trained, it is of much less consequence 
to the production of good crops than its other general manage- 
ment. To have good grapes, much more depends upon the 
scil in which they are planted, and tlie climate in which they 
aie kept, than in any particular mode of training. That mode 
which tends the least to confusion, and at the same time ad- 
mits of a constant supply of young bearing shoots into the 
vinery, is decidedly the best, every advantage being combined 
in it; while, at the same time, it is exempt from that confu- 
sion which attends other methods of late years extolled by 
horticultural writers, and which are not calculated to produce 
any better effect. A greater variety of training may be in- 
dulged in on the open walls ; but as the object in all vineries 
is fruit of the best quality, we see no better method than 
training the shoots directly up the roof, for, by this means, a 
good gardener will always be able to provide a regular supply 
of young wood in every part of his house ; whereas a novice 
may adopt any plan which he fancies, without attaining the 
desired object. 



FORCING CUCUMBERS AND MELONS. 

The cucimibcr and melon-plants now showing fruit, will re- 
quire great care and attonlion, as advised last month. Par- 
ticular care must be paid to set or impregnate all female flowers 
as they appear ; for, without this assistance, many would damp 
off, and orlicrs would grow of a deformed shape, for want of 
that necessary assistance. This is more particularly to l)e at- 
Icnde t ) as regards melons ; few, if any of them, will con:e 
to j erfcction without being impregnated. At a more advanced 



69G THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mar, 

period of the year, this precaution is of less importance, par- 
ticularly to cucumbers, as many insects, and bees in particular, 
will be in active quest of food, and will, while flying from 
flower to flower, perform this necessary office. The state of 
the beds will require daily attention, so that a brisk growing 
heat may be kept up, in order that the plants may not sustain 
any check, which to them, at all seasons, is extremely injurious. 
This heat, though brisk, must be moderated according to the 
state of the weather. The cucumber-plants ridged out last 
month, as directed, will now be beginning to produce fruit in 
perfection and abundance. 

As the heat begins to decline, let linings of prepared fresh 
dung be applied, or the linings, if any have already been ap- 
plied, should be renewed as circumstances may direct. 

Air should be freely admitted every day, in quantity more or 
less, as the state of the weather and the temperature of the 
beds may direct ; and water should be likewise administered 
frequently, but in a moderate quantity, always using the pre- 
caution to have the chill taken off before using, either by its 
being placed in the beds some hours previously to its being 
used, or rather by the addition of a portion of water heated 
for the purpose. The operation of watering should be per- 
formed in the forenoon, and, if possible, in fine days, from 
ten to one o'clock, so that the plants may be partially dried 
before the beds are shut up for the night. The frames will 
require to be carefully covered up every night with mats, and 
this covering removed by sunrise, or soon after, in the morn- 
ings. As the plants extend themselves, let their branches or 
runners, as they are called, be pegged down to the mould, at 
regular distances, to prevent their running into confusion, as 
well as to strengthen the plants, by allowing them to root at 
the joints of their shoots, by which means they will obtain 
additional nourishment. As the roots penetrate through the 
hills, add more mould to them, always adding a little at a 
time, and having it placed in the beds a day or two before it 
is applied to the roots, so that it may be brought to an equal 
temperature to the mould in the beds. 

It is of much consequence that the mould applied at all 



Mar.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



097 



times be well broken, and moderately dry, before it is brought 
into the beds ; for which purpose, it should be kept in a dry 
shed, or other sheltered place, to be always in a fit state. 

The melon-plants planted at the same time will not be so for- 
ward as the cucumbers, but they will now, if every thing has 
prospered, be in want of additional mould at their roots, and 
their runners will, as they extend themselves, require to be 
pegged down in the same manner ; accordingly as the mould is 
applied to the melon-plants, let it be well trodden or beaten 
compactly round their roots, and let all appearance of mouldi- 
ness or damp be removed, by frequently stirring the surface, 
and displacing any dead or injured leaves. As the flowers are 
set or impregnated, let a small piece of tile or slate be placed 
under the rudiment of each fruit, which will greatly prevent 
their damping off. 

Successional crops of both cucumbers and melons will also 
now be required to be ridged out from plants raised from 
seeds sown last month ; accordingly, as such plants appear fit 
for planting out, let beds be prepared for their reception, as 
directed last month, and for latter crops, seeds should now 
again be sown, at least twice during this month. Beds made 
from this time forthwith, need not be so strong as those al- 
ready put up ; fi'om three to three feet and a half will be quite 
sufficient. 

For those who only desire to have cucumbers or melons to 
cut by the beginning of May, or towards the middle or latter 
end of that month and the beginning of June, this is a good 
time to sow the seeds, and the success of those which are 
sown at this time, may be calculated upon with greater cer- 
tainty than upon those which are sown much earlier. For 
general crops for summer use, this is the best time to sow, as 
those which are sown at this time will continue bearing the 
greatest part of the summer and autumn months ; the cucum- 
bers coming in, in June, and the melons in July and August: 
the only months in which melons can really be had in perfec- 
tion. Towards the end of the month, seeds of both these 
fruits may be sown, for the purpose of being ultimately planted 
out under hand or bell-glasses. The plants from seeds sown at 
that time will be fit to plant out, where thay are lo remain, by 

4 1/ 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENTR. 



[Mar, 



the beginning of May, and the cucumbers be fit for use in 
June aiidJuly, and the melons will be ripe in August. 

HOT-BEDS FOR FORWARDING CULINARY PRODUCTIONS. 

Slight hot-beds of leaves, or dung and leaves, may, Xry the 
l)cginning of the month, be put up for forwarding early crops 
of potatoes, carrots, French-beans, cauliflower-plants, celery, 
broccoli, &c. The potatoes, turnips, and carrots, to be left 
to produce their crops upon the beds, and the French-beans, 
cauliflower, broccoli, celery, &c., to be transplanted into the 
open borders to come to perfection. If the autumn-sown crops 
of peas or beans have failed, they should, by the beginning of 
this month, be forwarded upon slight beds in the same man- 
ner ; and as these crops are found to be improved by trans- 
planting, the loss may be readily remedied. In sowing peas 
upon hot-beds, cover the bed with turf cut into small pieces, 
as hinted at in the Culinary Garden, which will enable the 
operator to remove them from the bed to their place of intended 
growth, without injuring their roots or checking their growth. 
Capsicums, basil, gourds, vegetable-marrow, lettuce, love- 
apple or tomato, marjoram, savory, &c., should now be sown 
upon slight hot-beds, to be forwarded in their growth, and to 
be afterwards transplanted out into situations suited to their 
respective habits. 

FORCING SALADS, &C. 

Radishes of diflferent sorts, mustard, cress, rape, chervil, 
and all kinds of salad-herbs, should be sown in succession 
upon slight beds till the beginning of April, after which time 
they will succeed sufliciently well in the open air. 

FORCING MUSHROOMS. 

Mushroom-beds may be now put up in the mushroom-house, 
or indeed at any time in the year ; however, this month and 
September are generally preferred for that purpose. (For 
MushroomSf see Culinary Garden.) 



/Ipr.] THE FORCING GARDEN. G9i) 



APRIL. 



NURSING AND SUCCESSION PINE-PLANTS. 

The plants will now be in a rapid state of vegetation, and 
will require plenty of water at their roots, once in three or four 
days, occasionally giving them a supply of liquid manure, as 
already directed. They should also be frequently syringed 
over-head with clear water, both to refresh their foliage and 
to keep them clear of dust. The constant steaming of the 
pits should also be attended to. The temperature should be 
continued as regularly as possible, at the same degrees as di- 
rected last month. Air must be freely admitted at all times 
that the state of the weather will permit ; and if any of the 
plants, which were not shifted into larger pots last month, 
appear now to be in want of removal, they should be care- 
fully taken out and the required shifting given to them, and 
afterwards replaced in the bed. 

FRUITING PINE-PLANTS. 

Water at the roots must now be given in a plentiful manner, 
every second or third day, in order to swell off the fruit to a 
good size. The application of liquid manure should also be 
given once a week ; but when this is applied, it is to be un- 
derstood as answering the purpose of watering. If any of the 
pots that appear to require it, were left last month without a 
top dressing, as there recommended, it should now be done, 
particularly when the pots happen to be too small for any of 
the plants, or where there is a particular fine fruit upon a 
weak plant. This addition to the nourishment of the plants 
will be obvious, and is the only means of assisting them in 
that respect at this period of their growth, as shifting them 
might be attended with danger, and the roots will now pro- 
babJy have penetrated through the holes in the bottom of the 
pots, and have extended thcn).selvcs considerably i.'i the de- 



700 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



composed tan or leaves of which the bed is composed. The 
plants have not only now to support their fruit, but also to 
nourish suckers, which will be fast forming, and which, when 
formed, make rapid progress in their growth ; as these suckers 
are one of the modes by which tlte pine propagates itself, they 
cannot be dispensed with, unless on particular occasions, such 
as that of an unusually fine fruit apj^earing ; in such a case, the 
lesser evil may be chosen, namely, that of destroying the 
offspring suckers, in order to proinote the growth of the fruit. 
This is, however, seldom done, at least to any extent ; the 
young plants always being considered valuable. Some varie- 
ties of pines arc liable to produce small suckers upon the foot- 
stalk of the fruit, which, as they seldom are of much value, 
should be rubbed off' as they appear ; for, if left on, they 
would rob the fruit of a considerable portion of nourishment. 
The different varieties of sugar-loaf, the king, and the brown 
Antigua are particularly apt to produce small suckers of this 
kiiul ; and these have been by gardeners denominated giUs, 
\\ hen more than two or three suckers appear upon one plant, 
which has a large fruit, it is adviseable to destroy them, as 
the increased size of the fruit, and the remaining two or three 
well-grown suckers will be sufficient produce from one plant. 
Whcu the fruit is of inferior size, then the suckers may be 
permitted to remain to the number of six or seven; more tlinn 
that cannot be well brought to perfection upon one plant. 
Such suckers as issue from the roots should be generally de- 
stroyed, as seldom making good plants. But if the increase 
of the stock of plants be the object, all suckers of the stem, 
and some of the best of those from the roots, should be en- 
couraged. Those from the roots are more apt to start into 
fruit in a premature state, than those which are formed upon 
the stem of the plants, and are therefore of much less value. 

Many gardeners prefer crowns to suckers, as making the 
best plants ; others are of a different opinion ; amongst the 
latter was Spcechly, who was the most successful cultivator ot 
this fruit in his day. Suckers," he says, "are preferable to 
crowns, being generally of a much larger size ; the goodness 
of either does not at all de})end on the length of their leaves, 
but on the substance of their stems at the bottom, I have 



THE FORCING GARDEN 



701 



sometimes had crowns that measured at their bottoms more 
than nine inches in circumference ; and in such a case, they 
were ahiiost equal to any suckers." 

FORCING PEACHES. 

The temperature should be continued as regular as possible 
at 55° of fire-heat, allowing an advance during the middle of 
each day by the sun-heat of 5° or 10°, but not exceeding that 
point. Air should now be more freely admitted, upon all oc- 
casions, by opening the sashes or ventilators, to prevent the 
young shoots being drawn up weak, and consequently unfit 
for forming buds for succeeding crops. This should be more 
attended to in the peach-house than in any other of the forcing 
departments, as the peach, from its habits, is impatient of close 
confinement ; and the shoots, if drawn up weak, will become 
a prey both to insects and diseases more readily than vines or 
pines, which, being much more hardy in their nature, will not 
suffer so much nor so soon from those causes. The fruit 
should be thinned wdien of sufficient size to show the forma- 
tion of the stone when cut through the middle, and before the 
stones have attained a grisly hardness. This thinning, how- 
ever, should be cautiously pursued at this time, and the final 
thinning left until the stones be fairly formed. 

When the trees assume a sickly or weak appearance, the 
quantity of fruit taken off should be greater, as by removing 
the superfluous fruit at an early period, the trees will conse- 
quently be less exhausted, and that portion of their strength, 
which they would naturally give to their fruit, be directed into 
their wood, and consequently the strength of the tree would 
be increased. This thinning of fruit of trees in a sickly or 
weak state is pointed out to us by nature, particularly in the 
case of the peach-tree. It is the first effort made by nature 
to recover itself, if reduced to a low weak state by immoderate 
bearing or in the case of bad management, by shedding more 
or less of its fruit, and sometimes the whole ; and it is also 
observed in almost every other fruit-bearing tree, by shedding 
the superfluous fruit, which it finds it is unable to bring 
to perfection. Of this v,c are often apt to complain, ^ar- 



TUF. PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



ticularly wlien they shed the greater part of tlieir fruit ; but 
nature is tlius relieved, and that health restored or preserved, 
which, if the fruit had not fallen, would in many cases have 
rendered the tree for some years unfit for future crops, and 
probably deprived it of life altogether. Trees more strong and 
luxuriant than may be desirable, may be allowed to carry 
a greater crop to exhaust themselves to a certiiin degree, and 
thereby acquire habits of more moderate growth, which will be 
more likely to continue them in a regular fruitful state for years, 
than if allowed to continue in a gross state of growth. This 
cannot be effected by pruning away the shoots, as in that case 
it would only tend to produce greater luxuriance. Laying in 
more wood, pruning little, and taking larger crops off them 
than off' such as are of less gross habits, will corrrcct this 
habit of luxuriance in most trees. 

The trees should be now disbudded or divested of all su- 
perfluous wood, leaving only such as will be really required to 
be laid in for the next year's crop. This early pruning will 
materially contribute to the health of the trees, and enable 
them to make such wood as will be productive of future crops, 
and give every chance of producing in high perfection the crops 
of the present year. This practice of disbudding is too little 
attended to by many gardeners, from a mistaken fear of taking 
too many oft'; but it is much better to have a few fine healthy 
shoots than to have the trees crowded with a vast number of 
meagre shoots not thicker than straws, and which will require 
to be cut out in the winter pruning, being unripened and weak, 
and all this at a considerable sacrifice of the strength of the 
trees. Those shoots which are selected to remain, should be 
neatly and regularly laid in to the trellis, and this should be 
)done as they advance, to prevent them being broken by the 
effects of watering, or other accidents, besides giving tlie trees 
a much better appearance. In tying those branches to the 
trellis, care should be taken not to tie them too tight, but to 
allow as much room between the shoot and the matting as 
would admit of another shoot of the same size along with it. 
If this be not attended to, the shoot swelling in size will be 
confined tor want of sufficient room, and the consequence will 
be, that the shoot will be cut almost through, and lay the 



Jpr.] THE FORCING GARDEN. 703 

foundation of a disease of the most dangerous nature. Peaches, 
of all trees, are the most sensible of external injuries ; and 
when the shoots are injured by this, or any other cause, bleed- 
ing ensues, and gum and canker follow. 

Water may now, as the fruit advances, be more liberally 
supplied to their roots, but still (as remarked last month) with 
due caution. The operations of the syringe should go on with 
unremitting assiduity, to keep down that dreaded enemy the 
red spider, and to refresh and nourish the leaves. Steaming 
should also be attended to, for the same purpose. The green 
fly, if the hints given last month be duly attended to, by once 
or twice a week using a slight fumigation of tobacco, will be 
kept entirely down. If it be once allowed to get a-head, it 
will require three times the expense to subdue it, independently 
of the injury done to the trees. 

The coccus sometimes makes its appearance, but (if not in 
immoderate quantities) it is apparently injurious ; where, how- 
ever, they can be removed, it is as well to do so, but their 
final removal will take place when the trees are undergoing 
their winter pruning and washing. The males of these in- 
sects having wings, may be dislodged by the application of 
water, thrown upon them with some force ; but as the females 
are stationary, they can only be rubbed off with the finger, 
or by similar means. 

■/ / PEACHES ON HOT WALLS. 

i 

Peaches are not unfrequently planted against hot walls, and 
where properly managed, they cannot but be considered as 
extremely useful, as forming that link of connexion between 
the forcing-houses and the open walls, and thus ensuring the 
ripening of the finer and later kinds of peaches and nectarines 
in cold wet autumns, in .the most favourable situations, per- 
fecting, at the same time, the earlier or middle-class of peaches 
and nectarines, in situations where the climate is not suffi- 
ciently congenial for their production without such assistance. 
All garden-walls of southern aspects, should be built hollow, 
or with flues, so that they can be used when occasion re- 
quires ; and as there is no extra expense in the first erection. 



701. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



such walls also should be so built that have eastern and west- 
ern aspects also. These latter, however, will not be of ge- 
neral utility, unless in warm situations in the north, and in 
all situations in the south of England. This species of forcing 
has been practised by many to an injurious extent; and, in- 
stead of doing good, has done much harm to the trees, by an 
injudicious application of the means that otherwise would have 
been of the utmost benefit to them ; for this reason, few hot 
walls have been built of late years, and many that have been 
so constructed have not been used. 

Trees planted against hot walls arc not to be considered as 
to be forced, but to be assisted in bad situations and unfavour- 
able seasons. The failures, therefore, hitherto experienced, 
have originated in the want of due caution being paid to the 
times of api)lying heat and the quantity so applied. 

" Fire-heat," saysNicol, "should never be applied to naked 
walls in the spring, so as to force the plants, which should be 
allowed to vegetate of their own accord, to flower and to 
shoot. But. after vegetation has commenced, and when the 
flowers, foliage, and infant fruit are in a perilous state, if 
bad weather overtake them, the help of the flues may be called 
in, and they may be employed in an auxiliary manner for their 
defence. If further aided by the application of nets, or of 
canvas screens, {see Protecting BlossomSy in Fruit Garden) 
their mutual help might, with proper attention, be reckoned 
upon as the sure pledge of a crop, and of well-matured fruit. 
The fires, if any be made at this season, should be very mo- 
derate. The flues should never be heated so as to feel much 
warmer than the hand after being kept in the bosom for a few 
minutes ; that is to say, they should seldom be above blood- 
heat, or what is termed milk-warm." 

Much injury may be done by attempting to force these trees 
placed with one side against a hot wall, while the other side is 
exposed to all the vicissitudes of the season. The greatest use 
of hot walls, and which is really of considerable importance, 
is their assistance in the end of August, September, October, 
and the beginning of November, in forwarding the maturation 
of the fruit, and ripening the wood. The trees upon such 
walls, if fire-heat be applied to them, will require to be pleu- 



Jpr.] TTTE FORCING GARDEN. 705 

tifully supplied with water during the whole time such heat is 
used, for the suppression of spiders and refreshing of the 
foliage. 

Hollow walls, heated by Mr, Atkinson's hot-water system, 
will be much less liable to accidents from over-heating, as no 
such occurrence can possibly take place where hot water is 
applied, and the distribution of heat is so uniform, that all 
parts of the wall will be heated to the same extent, which is 
not the case where hot-air or smoke-flues ai'e used. 

FORCING VINES. 

The temperature in the grape-house should be continued 
with regularity, as near to 75° as possible ; and if success have 
attended the management, the fruit will be set by the begin- 
ning of the month, and be swelling fast towards the end of it. 
Larger quantities of water should now be regularly given to the 
vines at their roots, and occasionally liquid manure should be 
applied to them also, both to their roots within the house and 
to the border without, as far as the roots may reasonably be 
expected to have extended themselves. This sort of manure 
is highly beneficial to the vine which is termed a gross feeder, 
and from the weight of its fi'uit, the number and length of its 
branches, it seems to require, at first sight, a greater share of 
nourishment than any other plant which inhabits our forcing- 
houses. The great fertility of the celebrated Hampton-Court 
vine is said to be principally owing to the roots having ex- 
tended themselves into a common-sewer, in the vicinity of the 
garden ; and numerous similar accounts are given us of vines, 
celebrated for their great productiveness, deriving supplies of 
nourishment from less delicate sources. 

However, a great weight and quantity of grapes are not 
always to be preferred, particularly when the means used to 
acquire that weight and quantity are prejudicial to the flavor 
of the fruit. Grapes, less luxuriantly fed, are generally ac- 
knowledged much higher flavored, and possessing a great 
degree of saccharine matter, of which larger and more showy 
berries and bunches are deficient. 

4x 



706' 



Till. ri;.v<. 1 U AL GARDENHR. 



However, ill the earlier stages of tlieir growth, hquid manure 
may be appUed to their roots ; but it should be discontinued 
when the berries are about one-third of their size. Clearwater 
should be supplied to them until they have nearly attained 
their full size, gradually withdrawing it as they begin to color ; 
from which time none should be given at their roots, unless 
the borders arc very dry indeed, and even then with a sjKiring 
hand ; the syringing of the leaves should also be abandoned, 
as it is sure to destroy the fine rich bloom upon the berries. 

But at this period of their growth, now under consideration, 
water from the engine should be applied abundantly over their 
leaves, to suppress or destroy the red spider; which, without 
this precaution, would be highly detrimental to the foliage. 
Water, thus applied, should be sent out with considerable 
force, first from the right-hand end of the house, and then 
from the left, so that both sides of the leaves may be tho- 
roughly scourged with the water once every day, and in 
warm days once in the morning, and again in the evening. 
The house should be regularly steamed every evening, accord- 
ing to directions previously given. The green fly seldom 
attacks the vine as it does the peach, but the thrips are often 
found curled up in the leaves ; which, on account of their per- 
forating them in thousands of holes, soon destroy them, and 
cause them to assume a shrivelled and dead appearance. 
When these enemies make their appearance, the fumigations 
of tobacco must be had rc^'ourse to. 

The utter destruction of both the red spider and thrips 
should be completed before the fruit attains its full size, and 
particularly before it begins to color, as the agents employed 
for their destruction, tobacco, fumigation, and water, camiot 
be then applied without injury to the fruit. 

The directions noticed last month regarding prunmg and 
training in the young wood, must be duly attended to through- 
out this month, in order to prevent any uimecessary waste of 
the strength of the vines by producing shoots, only to be 
taken off either soon or at the winter pruning, as well as to 
prevent confusion and too much sluide, into which the vine, 
from its habits of rapid growth, is subject to run. 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



707 



Those shoots which are even intended to be left at some 
length at the winter pruning, should be stopped after they 
have exceeded the required length that they are ultimately to 
be ; that is to say, one-third, or rather more, should be stopped 
back a few joints, so as not to run up and crowd the other 
parts of the house. All lateral shoots, and such as issue from 
the old wood, together with all tendrils, should be removed 
as useless, and only robbing the vine, as well as causing con- 
fusion.; leaving only the tendril next the extremity of those 
shoots which are laid in at the greatest length. Any leaves 
broken or injured by accident, or destroyed by insects, should 
be also removed, but none of the healthy leaves should be 
ever taken off, as the vine thereby becomes so much weakened, 
and when this practice is carried too far, the ill effects often 
appear in the shrivelling of the fruit before it attains maturity : 
this is most obvious in the tender kinds of vines, such as the 
Frontignac, and some others ; while the hardier kinds, such as 
the Hamburg, &c., are less effected by it. Air should be 
admitted freely every day by opening the ventilators or sashes 
more or less, according to circumstances. 

It is wisely observed by Nicol, that a man to be a good 
trainer of vines, and to be able to provide for a crop the fol- 
lowing season, must have some forethought, and be capable 
of making his selections as the plants shoot, even at this dis- 
tance of time. It must be pre- determined how he shall prune, 
and where he shall cut at the end of the season, and so, as 
it »verc, fishion the plants to his mind. He has this more 
effectually in his power, with respect to the vine, than any 
other fruit-tree, on account of its rapidity of growth and 
docility. 

Such shoots as may have been stopped, as directed above, 
will be apt to push again. Allow the lateral that pushes to 
run a few joints, and then shorten it back to one, and so on, 
as it pushes, until it stop entirely. When the proper shoot 
from which these issued becomes ripened nearly to the extre- 
mity, the whole of the said laterals may be cut off at tlie ori- 
ginally sliortened part, or at one joint above it, if tliere be 
re.'.son to fear that tlie uppermost bud of the proper shoot will 
start. 



708 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



FORCING CUCUMBERS AND MELONS. 

Cucumbers and melons should now be kept in a growing 
state, and plentifully supplied with heat, air, and water. Ex- 
amine the heat in the beds frequently, and as it begins to 
decline, let it be renewed by the application of fresh linings, 
or by renewing such linings as may have been already applied. 
Air should be freely admitted every day, in a greater or less 
degiee, accordingly as the weather is favorable or unfavorable, 
by tilting up the sashes, or by drawing them up or down a few 
inches, giving and reducing it by degrees, as the state of the 
weather may direct ; taking care to shut them up in the after- 
noon before they become too cool, and that they may regain 
a few degrees of heat to keep them sufficiently warm during 
the night, llie mercury shoidd not be allowed to rise in the 
thermometer during sunshine above 70° or 72°, but air should 
be admitted to keep it at or near those points ; and by shut- 
ting up at an early period in the afternoon, this temperature 
will be kept up for a considerable length of time. Water 
should be applied liberally from the rose of the water-pot 
every two or three days, generally watering in the afternoon 
about three or four o'clock, but in dull cloudy weather it may 
be applied earlier; care, however, must be taken that it is 
not applied when the sun is powerful, as the leaves would be 
scorched by his rays acting upon the particles of water upon 
them. It will still be necessary to have the chill taken off the 
water before it is applied to them. 

At this season, cucumber-plants are sometimes infested with 
the green fly, and also with that much more troublesome enemy 
the thrips ; if either of these make their appearance, recourse 
must be had to funiigation, which will soon rid them of both 
these troublesome enemies. From the mode of cultivation, the 
red spider seldom invades them, as it is only in dry warm at- 
mospheres that that insect exists, and which are extremely 
unfavorable to the growth of the cucumber. A mild humid 
licat is that in which they are found to prosper best, and in 
such the red spider seldom makes its appearance. As the 
plants extend their shoots, the mould should also be extended, 
and should now be made good all over the beds ; the vines 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



709 



should be closely, neatly, and regularly pegged down to it. 
They should also be moderately thinned, if they be too thick 
and crowded, with the view to prevent confusion, as well as 
to avoid weakening the plants with a superfluity of useless 
shoots and leaves. This thinning or pruning should, however, 
be cautiously done, a little only at a time being removed, and 
as they are apt to bleed, they would be much weakened if too 
much be cut at once. All bruised, damped, or decayed leaves, 
should be carefully removed as they appear, and no weeds 
suffered to grow in the beds ; if this be not attended to, damp 
will naturally be engendered, and will at all times be very in- 
jurious to the plants. 

It not unfrequently happens, that the leaves of the plants 
will flag or droop, particularly if hot sunny weather succeed 
dull cloudy days ; and when such occur, let recourse be had 
to a slight shading, either by throwing a thin mat, or sprink- 
ling a little dry hay, straw, or litter over the glass, but this 
shading should be removed as soon as the sun becomes less 
powerful. 

Towards the middle or end of the month, if the weather be 
mild, ridges should be put up, upon which to plant out both 
cucumbers and melons, to be perfected by the protection of 
large bell or hand-glasses ; however, unless in favorable situa- 
tions, melons will not succeed so well without the protection 
of frames and lights, in addition to dung-beds. Cucumbers 
will be found to succeed in most situations in this manner, if 
protected till the end of the month ; after which time, they will 
succeed well without any covering, except, for greater security, 
a few mats may be thrown over them every evening till towards 
the end of May, when they may be dispensed with. In form- 
ing these ridges, they should not be sunk under the surflice, 
as is most frequently done ; for, by being sunk, it will be im- 
possible to refresh the heat, should it be required, by the appli- 
cation of linings. If it be intended to have many grown in this 
manner, it is advisable to put up the ridges or beds parallel to 
each other, from three to four feet apart, and the ridges may 
be of the width of three feet each. When the heat begins to 
decline in the ridges, the space between them may be filled 



710 



THr- PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



up with (lung or leaves, sweepings of lawns, or any vegetable 
substance capable of aflbrding heat by means of fermentation. 
This will not only add to the heat of the ridges, but will also 
increase their surflice for the plants to be trained upon. If 
the directions formerly given have been attended to, as far as 
regards sowing successional crops of seed of these plants in 
j)ans or pots placed in the beds in a more advanced state of 
growth, there will be by this time an abundance of young 
'plants, fit for planting out upon these ridges. As soon as the 
ridges are put up, about the height of two feet and a half and 
three feet broad, and the heat sufficiently up, let their whole 
surface be covered with mould, such as is used for cucumbers 
in the pits or frames ; and for melons, mould should be used 
of a stronger quality, as has been already noticed. This co- 
vering of mould should not be less than ten inches thick over 
the whole ridge, and whore the plants are to be placed it may 
be fifteen, laying the whole in a sloping manner, both to throw 
off superfluous water, and to expose the plants to a better 
angle to the horizon ; the mould afterwards to be increased in 
depth as the roots of the plants extend fhemselves. 

In planting out the plants, let three be placed in each hole, 
as has been directed for ridging out in (he hot-bed frames, 
and each patch of plants or holes, as they are termed, be 
placed at the distance of three feet and a half apart, exactly 
in the middle of each ridge. When the plants arc put in, 
give a gentle watering (the chill being prc^-iously taken off) 
to settle the mould round their roots. Place over each patch, 
or hole, a large bell-glass, or hand-glass, which may be shut 
down close for the first day or two after planting, to encou- 
rage the formation of fresh roots. If the weather be clear, 
<and much sunshine, let each glass be shaded until the plants 
have taken root in the fresh mould : this shading to be only 
used during sunshine, and removed when all danger of its 
power is over. They will require to be covered with mats 
every evening till towards the end of the month, or probably 
till the middle of the succeeding one, so as to guard suffi- 
ciently against cold, damp, or frosty weather ; for if they be 
checked with cold at their first setting off, gum, canker, and 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



711 



luany oilier diseases will follow, which may not be easily ex- 
tirpated; no family of plants being so impatient of checks of 
this kind as those of the melon and cucumber tribe. 

Their general management on ridges varies not from that 
of the same plants in hot-bed, with this difference only, they 
will require to be more sparingly supplied with water, parti- 
cularly until they be fully established and the season suffi- 
ciently mild ; after which they will require, in dry weather, 
more copious supplies of that element than such as are in 
close boxes, being more exposed to the drying effects of wind 
and sunshine, and growing in an airy open atmosphere, they 
will be able to digest a greater portion of that necessary 
element. 

If the plants have not been previously stopped or topped, it 
must not be omitted at their planting out. This operation 
should be performed when the plants have two or three leaves, 
in the manner already directed. Each plant thus stopped will 
send out two, three, four, or more runners ; and these runners, 
if no fruit appear upon them, (but this is not often the case,) 
should be stopped in the same manner when they have ex- 
tended to three joints. This stopping of the shoots should be 
constantly performed until fruit appear ; afterwards they may be 
allowed to extend to a considerable length, and if not checked 
by bad management, will continue to send out lateral shoots 
naturally, which shoots will produce an abundance of fruit. 

When the plants ^lave been planted out two or three days, 
air should be admitted gradually ; beginning by merely placing 
a piece of chip or slate under the edge of the glass, and after- 
wards increased to the full thickness of a brick upon its edge. 
When the vines or shoots extend themselves beyond the boun- 
daries of the glass, they should be permitted further to extend 
themselves freely, by placing a brick under each corner of the 
glass, so that the shoots may have free egress under them ; 
but the glasses should not be entirely removed from over the 
roots until the end of June or J uly. 

The general management of melons differs little from that 
of the cucumber, with this distinction only, that, to have them 
in perfection, they require a higher temperature throughout 
their whole growth, for the strictest attention should be paid 



712 



Tlir PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



to the state of the heat in the beds, and upon the first appear- 
ance of anydechne in the heat, the hnings should be renewed, 
or made entirely fresh. Accordingly as the shoots extend 
themselves, they should be stopped, as already directed for 
cucumbers, and carefully trained down to the surface of the 
beds ; a certain portion of mould should be added as the roots 
begin to make their appearance through the hills, and as it is 
progressively applied, it should be well trodden or beaten in 
a compact body. Care must be taken that no damp nor moul- 
diness appears in the beds ; and to guard against this evil, 
the surface should be kept clear of weeds, and stirred fre- 
quently up to the depth of half an inch, and all decayed or 
dead leaves carefully removed. Melons sutler much more 
from the loss of leaves and hard pruning than cucumbers ; and 
when it is necessary to remove either, let the end of the shoot 
or foot-stalk of the amputated leaves be squeezed between the 
finger and thumb, so as to bruise the ends of the vessels and 
prevent a too copious bleeding. 

The vines, or runners, should be carefully pegged down 
close to the surface, by which they will not be liable to be 
displaced, nor will they rub against each other, which might 
be productive of wounds, which, if not attended to, would pro- 
duce canker ; and this happening to a principal branch, would 
endanger its total loss. This circumstance happens not un- 
fre(}ucntly, when the vines have almost filled their allotted 
space, and their share of fruit set and fast Iwelling. 

When a canker of this kind occurs, from damp or wounds, 
a little unslaked lime or chalk, finely pounded, and laid over 
the wound, will tend to dry up the damp; but if canker arise, 
from want of sufficient heat, which is not unfrequently tlie 
case, the crop stands in great danger of being spoiled ; and 
should the fruit, by a renewal of the heat, be brought forward, 
it will neither be handsome nor well-flavored. 

Mr. Knight, in the Hort. Trans, ^ sensible of the injury 
which melon-plants sustain by losing their leaves, recommends 
that the utmost care be paid to their preservation, and insinu- 
ates that their leaves should never be displaced from their 
natural position, even by the process of watering with a coarse 
rose watering-pot ; but he recommends that the water be ap- 



Apr,] TUE FORCING GARDEN, 7 15 

plied by a watering-pot witliout a rose, and carefully placed 
between the leaves, so that the mould and roots may be sup- 
plied without injury to the leaves. The same intelligent hor- 
ticulturist also recommends growing melons in large pots, 
either placed in pits, frames, or forcing-houses, and training 
the vines or shoots to trellises. We, however, can perceive 
little benefit to be derived from growing them in pots, either 
in pits or frames, seeing that they succeed so much better 
when they are planted out in them; but where convenience 
admits of it, they may be successfully cultivated in large pots, 
similar to cucumbers, in forcing-houses of sufficient tempera- 
ture. The idea of training them to trellises is good, and may 
be practised in either pits or frames with advantage, or, whicli 
will answer the same end, and be more readily applied, they may 
be trained to laths, placed at a little distance f^om the surface 
of the mould, and additional laths applied as the plants extend 
themselves ; or trellises may be formed in convenient pieces, to 
be used in a similar manner. Some gardeners practice cover- 
ing the surface of the beds with slates, tiles, sand, gravel, &c., 
and some cover it with moss : neither of these modes is ad- 
visable, as the reflection of the rays of heat from such bodies 
will render the plants in danger of being first infested by the red 
spider, and finally destroyed either by them or the too power- 
ful effects of the rays of the sun. " By mossing the surface," 
Nicol justly observes, " the indolent may find a pretext, as it 
no doubt in some measure lessens the labour of watering; but 
it is wrong to pursue tliat method, in so far as it harbours and 
encourages the breeding of various insects ; and as the fruit 
approaches to maturity, taints it with an unpleasant effluvium.'^ 
Air and water must be supplied as the weather and state of 
the plants may determine, and the operation of impregnation 
should not by any means be neglected. In the application of 
water, it should not be done in a careless manner as a inattcr 
of course, but it should be given in a less or greater quantity 
as may be required, preferring to give a little and often, ra- 
ther than to give a large supply at once. Accordingly as the 
blossoms are impregnated, and the rudiments of the young 
fruit appear, lay small pieces of tile or slate under each, which 
will prevent their liability to damp off. 

4\ 



7] [ Tlin PRACTICAL C AR DT. N f.n . 

Air should be less freely admitted to melons than to cucum- 
bers, as the former require a higher temperature ; however, 
in sunshine, the thermometer should not be allowed to rise 
above 75° or 80^, which is a temperature sufficiently high for 
their production. 

In Persia, where they possess very superior sorts of melons, 
and where they have been cultivated from the earliest ages, great 
attention has been paid to their culture, growing them in fields, 
which are rendered capable of being frequently irrigated, and 
using for their principal manure large portions of pigeons' dung ; 
indeed, so much importance do they attach to this manure, that 
the melon-growers keep dove-cots on purpose to procure it in 
abundance, and even purchase it at an extravagant price. This 
mode of supplying melons with additional nourishment, has of 
late years been recommended by many, and practised by se- 
veral eminent horticulturists. Some add the pigeons' dung in 
their compost, while others use it diluted in water, and ap- 
ply it in its liquid state, taking care that none of it falls upon 
the leaves. We have for several years practised both modes, 
but never found that the melons were of better flavor, nor more 
abundant in crop, than when grown in fresh virgin-loam taken 
from a sheep-walk, and used without any previous preparation 
whatsoever. Melons may probably be grown to a larger size 
by the application of such powerful manures ; but large melons, 
like most other fruits of magnitude, are seldom of good flavor. 

Few fruits, the pine excepted, possess higher flavor than 
melons, if of good sorts and well cultivated, but the larger 
Forts of them are seldom fit to eat ; hence the disrepute into 
uhich this excellent fruit has fallen. 

Those who compete for the prizes awarded for the highest- 
flavored melons, are very particular in this matter. They 
most generally grow very small sorts, principally of the scar- 
let-flesh rock sorts, although sometimes gi'een-fleshed ones 
succeed. They seldom use any manure whatever, and are 
always very sparing of water ; never giving more after the 
fruit attains its full size than what is merely sufficient to keep 
the plants alive, and admitting plenty of air while the fruit is 
ripening. 



Ma//.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



715 



M A Y. 



NURSING PINE-PLANTS. 

Towards the middle of this month, the beds will have sunk 
considerably, and will also have declined in heat; it will 
therefore be necessary that the plants be all taken out, ob- 
serving to tie them up as recommended in March, for the 
greater preservation of their leaves ; which, when injured, by 
being broken or bruised* soon assume a sickly appearance, 
and cease to be useful organs of the plant. The weather may 
now be expected to be fine ; at least, a clear day or two should 
be chosen for this arrangement of the young pine-plants, in 
order that the operation may be effected with grea^r safety. 
After they are all removed from the bed, it should be well 
worked over to the very bottom, and all decayed matter thrown 
out. Where either bark or leaves are scarce, it would amply 
repay the trouble to pass all those which appear exhausted 
through a coarse riddle, returning the rougher particles into 
the pit, and removing the finer or more decayed parts to the 
compost-yard ; which, if the beds have been composed en- 
tirely of leaves, will be found an extremely useful article in 
the compositions which are necessary not only for the growth 
of pines, but also for almost every plant in the garden ; and 
those which may not be required for entering into the com- 
posts will be a useful manure to almost any soil. Should the 
beds be composed of tan, or tan and leaves mixed, the com- 
position should also be saved, as it will become useful for 
many purposes, both in the formation of certain composts, as 
well as in the covering of many roots from the severity of the 
frosts, and several other purposes where light mould may be 
required. 

The necessary quantity of fresh tan or leaves should be 
brought in, and carefully mixed with the half-decomposed that 
remains \n the pits ; observing to keep the greater proportion 
of fresh matter nearest the boltom, and keeping as much of 



716 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



tlie more decayed upon tlic top, in whicli to plunge the pots 
upon their being again brought into the house. 

The plants will now require to be carefully examined ; and 
such as appear in want of shifting into larger pots, should be 
set out, and the necessary mould and pots got ready for that 
piu'pose. In preparing the plants for potting, after their being 
turned out of the pots, remove all small suckers that may be 
forming at their roots, and also displace such small and use- 
less leaves as are nearest to the roots, as this will induce them 
to push out fresh and vigorous roots from the lower part of 
their stem. The pots being well drained, as already directed, 
the plants should be placed in tlicm, observing previously to 
putting them in, to examine their roots, and cut out all those 
Mhich are decayed or useless, and single out those which 
appear matted round the outside of the ball, or at the bottom 
of the pot. Those which have penetrated through the holes 
in the boitom, and have extended themselves in the tan, should 
be cut off, as they nmst have been injured in taking out the 
plants ; independently of which, the shortening of their roots, 
that arc of immoderate length, will induce the plants to push 
out a number of others nearer to the stem. The balls should 
not be much broken, unless they appear hard, or the mould 
be exhausted ; in such cases, they may be carefully pushed in 
pieces, and the exhausted mould removed. In repotting them, 
let the mould be well shaken in amongst the roots, whicli 
should be rather dry than otherwise, and finely broken with 
the back of the spade, or with the hands, but not sifted, un- 
less through a very coarse riddle ; for when the mould is ren- 
dered too fine by sifting, it prevents the free escape of super- 
fluous moisture, and becomes of too close a texture for the 
roots to push freely in ; besides, in sifting the mould too fine, 
all the fibrous matter that it did contain would be rejected, 
and consequently the best part of the compost would be lost 
to tlic plants. Let the mould be well shaken in amongst tlie 
roots, and the plant gently shaken up and down, so that no 
vacancy may be left amongst tlic roots. Those which are re- 
potted with their Ijalls entire, should only have a few of their 
outer roots loosened, and be placed carefully in a larger pot, 
shaking in the mould regularly all round, so as to fill up the 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



717 



whole space between the ball and the sides of the pot; but, even 
in this case, no other means of forcing down the mould should 
be used except the fingers, and well shaking the pot. We do 
not advise the use of a stick, as is often practised, as it is 
very liable to injure the roots, and if used very freely, renders 
the mould too compact. The sizes of the pots, as has been 
already noticed, must depend upon the magnitude and growth 
of the plants ; each plant should be placed in a pot of such 
size as is suited to its strength. Fast-growing, luxuriant 
plants require larger pots, while weak or sickly ones will re- 
quire pots only of the same size, or nearly so, to that from 
which they were taken : and those which are ill-rooted and 
sickly, will even require smaller pots than those from which 
they were taken. It is much better to shift often than to over- 
pot at once. 

In filling the pots with mould, leave it at least an inch 
below the level of the margin of the pots, to allow room 
for holding water, and when the plants are all potted, give 
them a gentle watering, merely to settle the mould about their 
roots ; but do not at this time give too much water, otherwise 
they would be not only chilled too much while out of their 
usual bottom-heat, but be also liable to be shaken out of the 
pots. A more copious watering will be necessary when they 
are replaced in the beds. 

Any decayed or bruised leaves should be carefully cut away, 
and all dead pieces at the extremity of the leaves cut off ; in 
performing which, use a very sharp knife, hold the leaf to be 
so pruned by the point, and draw the knife upwards, begin- 
ning below where the leaf is decayed, and cutting upwards in 
a slanting direction of some length. 

Replunge the plants in the same manner as formerly di- 
rected, placing them in regular order as to their heights, always 
keeping the smallest and those which are unpotted in front. 
Such as have been rooting in the bed out of pots, should now 
be put into pots, differing in size according to their strength, 
and take their place among the other potted plants. As the 
plunging goes on, care must be taken not to allow the tiin or 
leaves to cover the mould in the pots too much ; for, if such 
be the case, it will be difficult to ascertain when they may be 



718 



THE rUACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May. 



ill want of water, or when watered too much. The tan, or 
leaves should be firmly packed ^*ound the pots, to keep them 
steady ; for if this point be not attended to, tlie sinking and 
contraction of the bed would be apt to throw them into an 
unlevel position, by which means, the water which is given 
them would not be contained in the pots sufficiently long to 
admit of its penetrating to their roots, and the plants would 
also have a very unsightly appearance. They will now require 
more room between each other in the bed, to allow a free cir- 
culation of air and sunshine to penetrate amongst them. As 
the season will now be becoming milder, a frame or two may 
be erected in the melon-ground, in which to place all the 
smallest, and particularly such as are not yet potted j this 
will admit of plenty of room being given to the more forward 
l)lants in the nursing-pits. The operation of plunging being 
finished, let the whole have a good watering at their roots, and 
the strings of matting with which they have been tied up re- 
moved ; the whole should then be well washed over-head with 
the syringe, to clear them of dust, and also to refresh the 
foliage. Place watch-sticks in the bed, at regular distances, 
by which the heat may be ascertained. If the season be mild, 
and a brisk heat come up in the bed, fires may be dispensed 
with, at least very much diminislicd, or only lighted on very 
cold nights, and gradually given over as the state of the 
weather and heat of the bed may determine. The tempera- 
ture should, however, be kept up to 70°, mornings and even- 
ings by aid of the flues, if the heat of the bed be not suf- 
ficient. Accordingly as the heat of the bed and the effects of 
sunshine raise the temperature, water should be more freely 
administered; occasionally watering with the liquid manure. 
Air should also be freely admitted every favorable opportunity, 
giving and reducing it by degrees, as the state of the weather 
may or may not be favorable. 



SUCCESSION PINE-PLANTS. 

The directions already given for the nursing-pit, are appli- 
cable also to the succession-pit. The same oi)crations of re- 
newing tlie beds, and shifting such phwts as may be in want 



MaiJ,'] THE FORCING CARDHN. 7lf) 

of it, should also be performed in this compartment. The 
temperature, however, should be kept as steadily as })ossible 
to 65° or 70° ; if after the bed be in a good state of fermen- 
tation, and the thermometer keep above G5°, fire-heat may be 
discontinued; but if any cold weather follow, and the tempe- 
rature fall below that point, occasional fires should be used. 
After the fires are Iqft off, and the flues no longer hot enough 
to produce steam as usual, the plants should be syringed in 
the evenings or mornings in fine weather, and the house shut 
closely up. The heat of the bed will be sufficient to produce 
a slight steam ; or, if this be not found sufficient, the flues 
may be heated for the purpose of producing steam in the 
usual way, and afterwards the fire let out. 



FRUITING PINE-PLANTS. 

If the heat in the bark-bed in this compartment has consi- 
derably decreased, it may be necessary about the beginning of 
the month to have it renewed ; but if this can be avoided, it 
would be more advisable, as the plants now will be more or 
less injured by being removed, according to the state of for- 
wardness of the fruit. Unless the heat has fallen to too low a 
temperature at the roots of the plants, it would be advisable 
rather to refresh the heat in the bark-bed, by surfacing it over 
with fresh tan or leaves, that may have undergone a sufficient 
degree of fermentation for the purpose. This stratum of tan 
or leaves, may be laid on to the thickness of a foot or more, 
as the bed will by this time have considerably sunk ; and the 
pots having been increased in depth by the addition of the 
circle of turf and mould, formerly directed to be applied, will 
thus stand some inches above the surface of the bed. This 
addition to the bed must be carefully applied, so as not to 
injure the plants, and will, by confining the remaining heat 
in the bed beneatli, together with its own fermentation, pro- 
duce a considerable temperature, and may be sufficient, with 
the addition of a little fire-heat in cloudy weather, to bring 
the principal part of the plants to maturity. The roots having 
by this time considerably extended themselves in the bed, it 
would be a serious check to them to be taken up, in order to 



Tin: rRACTICAL gardkner. 



[May. 



get the whole bed renewed. However, if tlie temperature of 
the bed be fallen too low, their removal will become neces- 
sary, as a want of sufBcient bottom-heat at this time would be 
attended with serious consequences to the fruit. In perform- 
ing this, therefore, the greatest possible care should be taken 
to remove them, so as not to injure the roots but as little as 
possible. The bed will not probably require to be turned 
over at this time quite to the bottom, therefore, in turning it 
over, the fresh tan or leaves used, should be kept well down, 
still bearing in mind to keep a sufficient quantity of half- 
decayed matter upon the surface, in which to plunge the pots. 
Such plants, the fruit of which is nearly swelled, should, as 
tliey are removed out of the bed, be supported with neat 
sticks, to prevent them being broken off, or the fruit-stalk 
damaged with their weight. During the time the plants are 
out, trim all decayed leaves off, and shorten such as are de- 
cayed at their points, they being of no use, and will make the 
plants look better when removed. Such plants, the fruit oi 
which is fully swelled, or beginning to ripen, should not be 
disturbed at their surface ; but all such as are less forward, 
should have all the mould removed from their surface that is 
unoccupied with roots, and either replaced now, or as soon as 
they are replunged in the bed. 

If any of the plants appear sickly, and the fruit not more 
than half swelled, they may be shifted with safety, and either 
placed in the same sized pots, or, if their roots be few and 
diseased, which will generally be the case with such as show 
less vigour than the others, their treatment being the same, 
they may be placed in smaller pots, their balls being reduced, 
and their roots singled out, and all decayed ones removed ; 
and if carefully repotted, and attended to with water as their 
state may require, they will perfect their fruit much better 
than if they had been left in the pots in which they formerly 
grew. It will, however, be a check to the growth of the fruit, 
and retard its ripening for some weeks. The plants being 
examined, and the bed ready for their reception, they should 
be plunged as directed in February ; keeping such as are 
nearly ripe at one end, to be removed when cut, without de- 
ranging the whole, and their place of course filled up with 



\URIC1TLA. IIIAIR'RIS' FRIT' U€Ii£K 




May.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



721 



plants iVoni the succession-house. When they are all plunged, 
the bed and house cleaned and regulated, give them a watering 
at their roots, and a profuse washing over-head with the syringe, 
to refresh them and clean them of the dust or filth contracted 
while undergoing the necessary removal. The plants showing 
fruit, in blossom, and swelling their fi-uit, should be liberally 
supplied with water every third or fourth day ; but those which 
have nearly attained their full growth, and particularly such 
as are coloring to ripen, should have less and less water given 
them as they approach maturity, reducing it by degrees, until 
it be entirely withheld some time before ripening. If this be 
not attended to, the flavor of the fruit will be very much de- 
teriorated, and lose much of that richness, which the pine is 
well known to possess when properly cultivated, and which 
has gained it the appellation of the king of fruits. 

We may also remark, that if pines be not cut soon after 
they begin to color, " that is, just when the fruit is of a green- 
ish yellow, or straw color, they fall off greatly in flavor and 
richness, and that sharp, luscious taste, so much admired, 
becomes insipid." It is often necessary to retard pines, when 
ripe, for some days, often a week or more after they are ripe, 
to answer some particular demand ; and when this is the case, 
they should not be cut from the plant, but removed carefully 
in the pots to the fruit-room, or some other airy cool place, 
where they will remain, without much injury, for a week or more, 
and will not shrivel nor lose their flavor so much as when they 
are separated from the plant. In cutting the pine for use, if 
not immediately to be sent to table on the same day, a con- 
siderable piece of the fruit-stem should be left attached to it, 
and never, until within a few hours of the time that it is to be 
eaten, should those scale-like appendages upon the pips be 
cut ofl*, for, in doing this, the skin might be wounded, and if 
kept for any time after their removal, decay would commence. 
Some prefer to have the pine sent to table with a portion of 
the fruit-stalk attached to it, and those scale-like appendages 
left upon it; while others have the stem cut close off", level with 
the base of the fruit, so that it may stand upon its own base, 
in an upright position. In no case, however, is the crown 
removed until the fruit be cut to be eaten. 

4 z 



722 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mai/. 



Unless the weather be unusually fine, the fires must be con- 
tinued till the end of this month, and probably longer. The 
temperature by fire-heat should be kept up to 75° as a mini- 
mum, and 80° as a maximum ; however, the temperature 
throughout the day may be allowed to range fi-om that to 100°, 
without any injury to the plants. Air must be freely admitted 
upon all occasions, and regulated by opening and shutting up 
the house, as the state of the weather may require. As the 
fruit approaches maturity, this is absolutely necessary to en- 
hance its flavor. 

FORCING PEACHES. 

The temperature in this department should be gradually 
raised to GO^ as the fruit advances, and the stoning of the fruit 
has been accomplished. After that time, all danger is over, 
provided the trees be in a healthy state ; and the final thin- 
ning of the fruit may then be proceeded with. It should, 
however, be a maxim, that, however much the fruit may be 
thinned, it is safest to leave a few to be occasionally picked 
ofl' as they advance to greater maturity. 

Where fine fruit is an object, they should be thinned, upon 
healthy trees, to the distance of nine or ten inches apart, or' 
even twelve ; but where the trees are rather weak, not above 
half that number of fruit, or even less, should be left. No 
leaves should be picked off' them at this time, as the fruit will 
swell much better when partially shaded with them ; neither 
should two fruits remain upon a shoot that is not considered 
sufficiently strong to bring them to perfection. 

Water may now be given in much more abundant supplies 
tlian hitherto, at least since the opening of the blossoms, both 
at the roots and over the leaves. This latter should be regularly 
applied every morning and evening, observing to have the morn- 
ing syringing done before the sun acts too powerfully upon the 
house ; the evening watering should be done the last thing at 
night, so that the water may remain the longer upon the trees. 
It should be applied with considerable force upon the trees, so 
as to annoy any inscc ts that may attempt a settlement, as well 
as a substitute for wind to set the fohage in motion, which is 



Mai/.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



72S 



of much importance to them, as they are precluded from that 
natural agent. 

The pruning and training-in of the young shoots should he 
continued, as directed last month, and all water-shoots and 
laterals removed, unless where some of the latter may be re- 
quired to fill up any vacancies in the tree. Towards the end 
of this month, if the weather be fine, fire-heat may probably 
be dispensed with, but this must be determined by the range 
of the thermometer ; neither should the fire-heat be withdrawn 
from them suddenly, nor all at once. Circumstances may require 
a slight fire in the evenings, merely to put a little heat into 
the house, in addition to that which it has imbibed from the 
sun ; and even in the mornings, if dull and cloudy weather 
should happen, it may not be unnecessary ; for, if the fruit 
experience a check at this stage of their growth, it will mate- 
rially affect their swelling to a full size. If the borders have 
been mulched, or covered with dung, it should now be re- 
moved, and the application of liquid manure discontinued. 
The flavor of the peach is so delicate, that any food of so 
gross a nature would affect it. The fumigations of tobacco 
should be continued upon the least appearance of fly ; for, if 
not thoroughly eradicated now, it will not be so easily effected 
after the fruit begins to swell off for ripening, as the flavor 
would be affected by the narcotic vapour. 



FORCING VINES. 

The temperature of the vinery should be continued at the 
same point recommended last month, with as much regularity 
as possible during the night ; however, as the weather be- 
comes warmer, the temperature may be allowed to rise a few, 
degrees during the heat of the day, and graduated by ventila- 
tion to the proper temperature. As the fruit will now be 
swelling, and approaching that state when the thinning of the 
bunches becomes necessary, in order that the berries may have 
sufficient room to swell to their full size, this very necessary 
operation should not be neglected, as well as the tying up of the 
shoulders of such bunches as require it, for the same purpose. 



724 



THE PRACTICAL GAKDrNF.R. 



[Afat/. 



With this view, go over every bunch in the house, and 
with fresh matting, or small string, fix one end of it to the 
extreme part or point of the shoulder of the bunch, and raise 
it up as high as it will admit of, without running the hazard 
of its being broken off, and fix the other end carefully to the 
wires or shoots of the vines; then, with a pair of finely-pointec^* 
scissars, rather longer than those in general use, for the con- 
venience of getting at the berries towards the centre of the 
bunch, begin to cut out all the smallest first, or such as are 
immaturely formed, and also such a quantity of the more per- 
fect ones, leaving the remaining berries hanging quite loose, 
and detached from each other. As in the case of thinning 
other fruits, this operation should not be completed at one 
time, but reserving the final thinning till the beginning of next 
month. It is no easy matter to say how many berries should 
be cut out, as that must always depend on the kinds of vines, 
the number of bunches upon them, and the size that the ber- 
ries attain when fully matured. Those which set their fruit 
closely, or crowded, should be more thinned than others that 
set less freely ; and such as have many bunches of moderate 
size upon them, should be much more thinned than when the 
crop is scanty, and, in many cases, the removal of many entire 
bunches will be necessary ; where such is the case, the small- 
est will of course be cut ofT, and the finest lefl on the vine. 
Those which produce berries of a large size, will also require 
to be well thinned, and where fine fruit is the object, all must 
be well thinned, that they may attain gi'eater perfection ; and 
to say that one-fourth or one-third of the berries should be 
cut oir, will not, in most cases, be too much. The musca- 
dine, tokay, and sweet-water, will not require so much thin- 
ning, generally, as some of the others. These arc apt to have 
many small imperfect berries amongst the bunches, which 
should all be cut out, and only a few of the perfect ones. 
Such compact growing sorts as the frontigniacs, should be 
more fully thinned, to allow room for the remaining berries to 
swell to their full size, as well as to prevent the chance of 
their rotting, in damp and cloudy weather, after they are ripe, 
which a free circulation of air among their berries will mate- 
rially prevent. 



May.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



725 



The grapes cut off in thinning the bunches, make excel- 
lent tarts, and are used for other domestic purposes ; they 
should, therefore, be carefully saved. If, while the operation 
of thinning goes on, a mat or piece of light canvas be sus- 
pended under the bunches, the berries will drop into it, and 
be less bruised, and more readily collected, than if permitted 
to fall on the floor of the house. 

Water should now be abundantly applied to the plants both 
at their roots and also over their leaves, by means of the sy- 
ringe ; the use of liquid manure should now be entirely dis- 
continued, to prevent the fruit from acquiring any disagreeable 
flavor ; but the use of clear water will materially forward the 
swelling of the fruit, and give strength to the vines. 



FORCING CUCUMBERS AND MELONS. 

A moderate degree of heat will still be necessary to be kept 
up in the cucumber-beds, and air and water more liberally 
supplied than has hitherto been done. The crops of early 
cucumbers will now be bearing in abundance, and will require 
little further attention than the admission of air and a plentiful 
supply of water. When the vines or shoots become confused 
or crowded, let them be moderately thinned, so as to admit a 
circulation of air into every part of the bed; this thinning 
should be performed by degrees, and not at one specific time ; 
for which purpose, look over the beds once or twice a week 
during the season. When the plants appear affected by the 
too powerful influence of the sun, let them be shaded during 
a few hours each day, as directed last month, either by spread- 
ing a thin mat over them, or a little hay, straw, or dry litter ; 
which, however, should not be put on too thick, nor yet al- 
lowed to remain on too long in the afternoon. 

Ridges may now be put up, on which to plant out cucum- 
bers, to produce their fruit under hand or bell-glasses, if not 
done List month; but it may be necessary, for the greater 
supply, to put some out on ridges both at that and the pre- 
sent time also. For directions on this head, see last mofith. 



72Cy 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May 



The melons which were sown in January and February, 
will now be in perfection, or nearly approaching to it. As 
these fruits approach maturity, let a smaller quantity of water 
be given, and air freely admitted ; for, without these points 
be attended to, the flavor of the fruit will be indifferent. They 
will now require no more water, but merely sufficient to keep 
the plants in life, until they ripen off their fruit. The vines 
may now be thinned out considerably, but not until the whole 
of the fruit be just on the eve of ripening ; for if done sooner, 
it would give too sudden a check to the plants, and cause 
many, probably the whole of the fruit, to ripen prematurely, 
and become shrivelled and insipid. This thinning of the vines 
is only intended to admit of a free circulation of air, and 
to allow the sun to penetrate to the fruit without being shaded 
by the foliage. 

A watchful eye should now be kept upon the fruit, so that 
it may not be permitted to remain upon the plant longer than 
it is ripe, for if this be allowed, the fruit will lose much of 
its flavor. It is only by observation that the gardener can 
become acquainted with the proper time to gather the fruits 
of his labour, and this observation is strikingly applicable to me- 
lons : no specific time can be fixed on, with any certainty, when 
to cut this fruit, ripening, as it does sometimes, in the interval 
of a few hours. Those which, to all appearance in the 
morning, would have required a day or two to ripen, may, 
towards the afternoon of the same day, be in a fit state to 
send to the table. Some sorts change color previously to be- 
coming ripe, whilst others retain their original color after they 
are ripe. A disposition is generally to be observed of their 
breaking away from the foot-stalk of the fruit previously to 
their being ripe : this point should be attended to ; and as 
eoon as that part which joins the foot-stalk and the fruit be- 
comes cracked all round, the fruit may be cut with safety. 
Some sorts indicate by their perfume that they are ripe, 
whilst others, and indeed some of the finest, have little or no 
smell until they be cut open. They should be sent to table 
as soon after they , are cut as possible, as they lose much of 
their flavor by keeping. This is, however, not always prac- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



727 



ticable ; for when it is intended to keep them for a few days 
after they are ripe, they should be placed in a cool airy cellar, 
or fruit-room, and during the time that they are there, they 
should be placed upon clean sheets of white paper. 

The saving of melon-seeds is an important part of the duty 
of the cultivator, as much future disappointment will occur, 
should the seeds of different sorts be mixed or substituted for 
each other. The individual who is particular in the flavor of 
his melons, will act judiciously, when he cuts a fruit to his 
mind, to save the seeds. It is from fruit of the earliest crops 
that seeds should be saved, as by that means there is less 
chance of the sort being impregnated by any other of less 
merit ; as in the early part of the season, the operation of im- 
pregnation is necessary to be done by the cultivator, and that 
operation being performed from flowers in the same frame, and 
possibly fi'om the same plant, there is less risk of the seeds be- 
coming hebridized at that time than at a later period of the year, 
when bees and other insects are flying from flower to flower, 
and carrying the fertilizing dust of the male flower to the 
female. As the seeds are selected from one or more fruit, 
but which, for greater certainty, should be kept separate, they 
should be carefully washed in clean water, allowing those 
seeds which swim upon the surface of the water to float ofi^, 
reserving such only as sink to the bottom. These, when suf- 
ficiently dry, should be packed up in papers, the seeds of 
each fi'uit put up separately, correctly labeled, their name, 
size, quality, when sown, when cut, and any other observa- 
tion of interest written upon the packet, together with the 
year of their growth. Melon-seeds improve by age, and 
should not be sown, if it can be avoided, under two years old. 
They will retain their vegetating properties for twenty years 
or more. If seeds of the growth of last season be sown, they 
for the most part produce plants of very gi'oss habits, and will 
not be so fruitful, but grow more to vines than fruit. 

To obviate this disadvantage, when older seeds cannot be 
procured, the seeds may be worn in the pocket, near ihe body, 
for some weeks previously to sowing, which will have the 
effect of fully maturing them. 



728 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. \^May, 

Some gardeners place much dependance upon the second 
and often upon a third crop from the same plants, but this is 
not to be depended upon. The finer kinds of melons will 
seldom produce more than one good crop of fruit ; for to have 
the fruit in perfection, the vines are generally killed, or so 
much weakened by the sparing supply of water given them 
during the ripening off of the fruit, that they seldom break 
sufficiently strong to produce a second, much less a third 
crop. 

Young plants may be brought forward in the secondary 
frames, and when too large to remain uninjured in the pots 
into which they were originally potted off, they may be trans- 
planted into small baskets, in which they may remain until 
the crops be removed from under the frames hitherto occupied 
with the earliest crops ; and when those are cut, the beds may 
be renewed, fresh mould put in, and the plants removed into 
them, still in the baskets, which may be partially cut away, or 
may remain, as the roots will find sufficient means of escaping 
into the fresh mould of the bed. A little gentle heat applied, 
and sufficient air and water administered, will forward these 
plants into fruit in due time. Such plants will produce better 
fruit, and with greater certainty, than l)y pruning in and re- 
generating the old plants from which the crop has been cut. 

Some of the early canteloupe varieties will, however, pro- 
duce second, and often third crops, by being sufficiently cut 
in after their first crop has been cut; but these, although 
extremely well suited, owing to their hardiness and free set- 
ting, for the most forward crops, are not to be put in com- 
parison with many more preferable sorts ; which, if treated as 
above, will produce their fruit in August and September, and 
although less in number or quantity, will be decidedly supe- 
rior in flavor. 

Those, however, who prefer to re-establish the old plants 
for future crops, should shorten in the vines or shoots to a 
good fresh-looking eye, and thin out all decayed or unhealth) 
slioots, dead leaves, &c. In cutting, attend to cut an inch or 
two above the joint from which the fresh shoots are expected 
to issue, and bruise the end of the shoots so cut between the 



May,] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



729 



finger and thumb, which will in a great measure prevent their 
bleeding. 

The plants so treated should be shaded from the mid-day's 
sun for a few days, exposing them by degrees. Let the mould 
in the frames be well watered and fresh surfaced with fresh 
mould. Previously to laying on this additional fresh mould, 
fork up the surface carefully with a bit of stick, but not so as 
to injure the roots. For some time after this operation, the 
frames should be kept shut up rather close, which will induce 
the plants to push out fresh roots ; and as they appear to be 
rooting, and breaking into fresh shoots, let air be again ad- 
mitted gradually until they be fully re-established. After this, 
give air, water, prune and train them, and otherwise manage 
them, as if they were young plants. After this second crop 
is cut, proceed in like manner to prepare for a third. 

The successional crops of melons should be attended to, as 
directed above for the early crops ; and if attention be paid 
to these hints, or improved upon, the success will be complete. 

Ridges should now be put up for planting out melons, to 
produce their fruit under bell or hand-glasses. These ridges 
should be put up as already directed for cucumbers. — (See last 
month.) Or beds may be put up similar to those for the pro- 
duction of the earlier crops, and covered with frames and 
sashes fitted with oil-paper instead of glass. The plants for 
this purpose being raised from seeds sown in March, or the 
beginning of last month, will be now of a proper size for final 
transplantation into frames of the above description. The 
general management of melon-plants in such frames, is the 
same as of those under glass, as has been already described. 

Plants now put out under such frames or upon ridges co- 
vered with hand-glass, will produce their fruit by the end of 
July, and in August and the beginning of September they 
will be in perfection. Beds are sometimes made up for the 
production of these fruits in the form of an inclined plane, pre- 
senting their sloping side to the sun ; and such beds appear 
to have been the most primitive form, both for the production 
of cucumbers and melons, and are reported to have been in 
use, amongst the commercial and private gardeners, so early 
as Charles the Second's reign, and were covered with straw 



730 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mat/. 



as a protection from frost at night. Beds of a similar nature 
have been recommended by a writer in the Ilort. Trans. ^ but 
it is only in very favorable situations that these fi-uits can be 
produced in any perfection upon such beds, witliout the as- 
sistance of glass. 

The market-gardeners in the vicinity of London, produce 
great crops of melons upon ridges similar to those already 
described for cucumbers, making the ridges parallel to each 
other, and as their heat declines, they fill up the spaces 
between them Math fresh dung, which adds fresh heat to the 
plants, while it completes the beds for the plants to run upon. 

The distance at which the plants are placed from each other, 
that is, the patches, or holes of three plants each, is about 
four feet or four and a half feet. When the plants are planted, 
give a little water to settle the mould round their roots, and 
put on the glasses over them, which should remain close down 
for a day or two, if the bed be not very warm. As soon as 
the plants have struck root, the glasses may be elevated a 
little by degrees, so as to admit of a sufficient quantity of air 
for their support ; this air to be gradually augmented until 
they be finally established, and then the glasses may be re- 
moved during fine days, but replaced every evening. It 
will be necessary to cover them also at nights with mats, for 
fear of frost, which not unfrequently happens during th'' 
month, and which, if the plants be not protected from it, would 
entirely destroy them. For a few days after the plants are 
put out, shade them from the full sun a few hours every day ; 
and as they get established, let such shading be discontinued 
by degrees, thus accustoming them to the full power of the 
sun. When the plants have covered the space under the 
glasses, they should be allowed to escape out under them, 
but it will not bo before the end of the month that they can 
be considered as safe from slight frosts. Those shoots which 
extend beyond the limits of the glasses, must be carefully 
protected from cold (yx injury, by covering not only at night, 
but also during the coldest part of some days, but this cover- 
ing must be determined by the state of the temperature of the 
weather. As they extend beyond the limits of the glasses, 
their shoots aie to be regulated and pegged down to the 



Mat/.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



731 



surfuce of the bed, as already directed for melons under frames 
and glasses. As the weather becomes more mild, elevate the 
glasses upon bricks or other props, sufficiently high to admit 
of the runners spreading freely out on all sides. For the 
better protection of the plants, as they extend from under the 
glasses, it will be advisable to have in readiness a sufficient 
number of oil-paper frames wherewith to cover them, previously 
to removing the glasses altogether. — (See 7iea:t month.) 

Cucumbers, to pickle, are often sown in the natural ground 
where they are to remain, and in favorable situations are found 
to succeed perfectly, but for this purpose, it will be soon enough 
towards the end of this month to sow the seeds. Where the 
situation is favorable, and the demand great for such crops, 
a piece of ground is put in readiness for the reception of the 
seeds by being dug regularly over, and manured, of a size 
according to the quantity wanted ; it is then divided into beds 
five or six feet broad, allowing a foot or eighteen inches for 
a footpath between each bed. The seeds are then sown in 
patches along the middle of each of the beds, each patch 
being about three feet and a half apart ; in each patch ten or 
twelve seeds are dropped, and covered to the depth of an 
inch. 

If the weather should prove dry and hot, give moderate 
supplies of water to each patch of seeds ; but this must be 
rather sparingly administered, for, if too freely indulged in, 
great danger would be incurred of rotting the seeds altogether. 
When the seeds have germinated, and the young plants are 
coming up, water may then be more freely given to them. 

When the plants have been up eight or ten days, they 
should be carefully thinned ; for if each seed sown has ger- 
minated, the plants will be much too thick. This thinning 
should not be done at once, but at two or three several times, 
allowing a day or two to intervene between each thinning. 
If the weather be cloudy, or if warm showers have fallen, 
take advantage of such weather for this operation ; but if no 
warm showers should flill, give a gentle watering both before 
thinning and likewise afterwards, which will prevent any of 
the plants which are intended to remain from sustaining in- 
jury. When finally thinned, they should stand in number 



732 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May, 



three or four only of the best and strongest plants in each 
patch. 

This is the method adopted by the London gardeners, and 
those who supply the metropolis with this fruit ; but, in the 
majority of situations, the most certain method of procitr- 
ing them will be found to put up slight ridges or hot-beds for 
the reception of the plants, which beds need not be more 
than eighteen inches or a foot in height, according to the qua- 
lity of the material of which they are composed, and of a 
length sufficient for the quantity intended to be grown. Their 
breadth need not be more than three feet, and placed in ranges 
parallel to each other, for the greater facility of covering them 
up and otherwise attending to them, as well as for the more 
readily filling up the spaces between them with fresh dung, 
sweepings of lawns, weeds, or other vegetable matter capable 
of affording an additional degree of heat, should the season 
turn out cold and backward. These beds or ridges should be 
entirely covered over with light rich mould, not sifted, but 
well broken with the spade, to the depth of ten or twelve 
inches. The beds being thus prepared, remove the plants 
into them, presuming that they have been previously reared in 
pans, and potted off' in small pots, three or four plants in each, 
and forwarded either in some of the hot-beds occupied with 
melons or cucumbers, or, if wanted in a considerable quantity, 
upon a bed or beds purposely put up for them. They should be 
planted out, exactly as directed last month for cucumbers, upon 
ridges, and their general management attended to in a similar 
manner ; covering them with hand or bell-glasses, or oil-paper 
frames, as a protection from the cold and wet ; or they may 
be sown at once upon the beds or ridges, prepared as above 
for them, but the heat of the dung will, in this case, be con- 
siderably exhausted before the plants attain any considerable 
size. It is, therefore, much better to raise them previously, 
and transplant them when of a proper size, by which means 
they will be fully established before the first heat in the ridge 
or bed declines. 



June,] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



733 



JUNE. 



NURSERY AND SUCCESSION PINE-PLANTS. 

During this month the young pine-plants will require liberal 
supplies of water and air, all of which will promote the growth 
of the plants. It may, however, be necessary to shift some 
of the plants into larger pots, that is, such as may have been 
marked out at the last shifting, and which were not then im- 
mediately in want of that assistance ; as also to pot any of the 
crowns or suckers that may now be sufficiently rooted either 
in the front of the nursing-pit or in the frames, where the 
young plants of that description may have been placed, both 
to enjoy the advantage of light and room, and to afford the 
same advantage to such as are more forward in growth in the 
nursing or succession-pits. These frames should be kept up, 
by means of linings and renewing the beds occasionally, to 
the same temperature as recommended for the nursing-pit; 
and their general management must also be the same, only 
such of them as may have been planted out into decomposed 
leates or rotten tan, will not require so much water, and it is 
essentially necessary to guard against too much rank steam, 
which would here produce a disposition in them to rot at the 
heart. Watch-sticks should be placed in the fi-ames, and 
often examined, particularly after renewing the beds or apply- 
ing fresh linings, as the roots, not being in pots, will be more 
liable to be injured by too much bottom heat. As the plants 
in these frames become sufficiently rooted, let them be potted 
in small pots, according to their size, and plunged again ; they 
will then be in fit order in autumn to take their places in the 
nursing-pits, when such as are there at this time will have 
been removed to the succession ones. 



734 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jtme, 



FRUITING PINE-PLANTS. 

The directions given last month for the general management 
of the fruiting plants, should be closely followed up during 
this month ; observing to withdraw the quantity of water gra- 
dually from the plants as the fruit approaches towards perfec- 
tion. Air must be freely admitted, and, if the weather be 
now fine, fires may be gradually discontinued, provided the 
temperature can be kept sufficiently high without them. As 
the fruit is cut for use, the plants may remain during the 
greater part of this month undisturbed, to forward the growth 
of the suckers : some of these will be sufficiently fit for being 
taken off the old plants before the rest ; and such as are founi 
to separate freely from the old plants, and have become of a 
brownish color at their bottom, may be taken carefully off, 
which will enable the plants to bring the remainder to greatci* 
perfection. Accordingly as these suckers are gathered off the 
plants, and the crowns returned after the fruit has been used, 
they should be laid by for some days to di-y and harden at 
their bottoms. The crowns will generally require to lie longer 
drying than the suckers ; a few days may be sufficient for the 
greater part of the latter, when they should be planted into 
the frames or in the front of the nursing-pit to root. After 
the crowns are fully dry, so as to be not likely to damp, a 
few of the lower and smaller leaves should be removed, and 
then planted along with the suckers to root, where they must 
remain till August, when they must be potted according to 
their respective sizes. Such plants as have had their fruit 
cut and their young suckers taken off, should be removed, 
and thrown away as fit for no other use. This will afford 
more space to those which remain, and make room for any 
that may have either been kept in the succession-pit for want 
of room in the fruiting-pit, or for such as may either have 
started prematurely, or been started for the purpose of fruiting 
late in autumn. Where there are any of these, they should 
be brought into the fruiting-house, accordingly as room is 
made by the removal of those which are taken away, and 
plunged here until a general regulation take place m the next 



June.'\ 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



735 



month, or beginning of August, as the state of the crop may 
determine. Such phints as are coming in for successional 
crops to ripen in autumn, and any that may have remained 
without showing fruit in the fruiting-pit, should be supphed 
with water, and otherwise managed, as has been ah'eady directed 
for such plants in the former months. 

FORCING PEACHES. 

The fruit will now be approaching fast to maturity, if the 
directions given in the preceding months have been fully acted 
upon, and other circumstances equally fiivorable have occurred. 
Air should be admitted now in large portions every day, and 
when the fruit is ripening, the sashes (if moveable) should be 
drawn down every fine dry day, that the fruit may enjoy as 
much as possible of the influence of the sun and air, to im- 
prove its flavor and color. It is a well-known fact, that 
peaches ripened in houses are n^ver so fine-flavored, nor yet 
so well-colored, as those upon the open walls ; therefore, the 
more they are now exposed to the free action of the sun and 
air, the finer will the fruit be. Care must be taken that, upon 
the approach of rain, the house be covered up, as wet would 
be highly injurious to them at this time. The waterings must 
now be discontinued ; beginning first by withholding the bot- 
tom watering, and by degrees the use of the syringe, until 
the whole be left off*. The leaves which shade the fruit, and 
which were directed last month to be left on, should now be 
displaced. If they cannot be pushed aside sufficiently to pre- 
sent the full exposure to the sun, let them be entirely taken 
off', leaving about an inch of the lower part of the leaf, to- 
gether with the foot-stalk of the leaf, which may, in some 
cases, mature the bud at its base. To have high-colored and 
fine-flavored fruit is the ambition of every gardener ; no 
means, therefore, are so likely to produce those effects as the 
removal of the sashes from the roof of the house at this pe- 
riod ; but, as it has been already observed, care must be taken 
that they be shut up again upon the approach of rain. 

When the fruit is ripe and beginning to drop, nets should 
be suspended under tlic trees for the fruit which falls to drop 



736 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June. 



into , but it should always be borne in mind, t'hat such fruit 
which is allowed to remain on the trees till it fall of its own 
accord, is much injured in its flavor, therefore it should be 
gathered by the hand when ripe, or rather before it becomes 
too ripe. jVIany ridiculous inventions have been puffed up 
under the name of peach-gatherers, but the safest and best is 
the hand; the sense of feeling is sufficiently acute in most 
people who have the gathering of such delicate fruits, as to 
be able to tell, by a very slight touch, when the fruit is fit or 
not fit for pulling. 

When gathered from the tree it should be carried to the 
fruit-room, and carefully placed upon clean paper, if not im- 
mediately wanted for use. Peaches may be beautifully colored 
or spotted, by sprinkling drops of water upon them when the 
sun is shining fully upon them. 

FORCING GRAPES. 

The crop will now be fast a})proaching to perfection ; but 
as, after the fruit begins to color, water should be withheld, 
it is necessary, as was hinted at for the peach-house, that a 
careful examination should be made to detect the appearance 
of the red spider, which, if any should appear, and not en- 
tirely banislied at this time, will not be so readily expelled 
afterwards, as the process of watering must be withheld, so 
as not to diniinish the flavor of the fruit. If any of this arch 
enemy be detected upon the leaves of the vines, they should 
be well syringed from both ends of the house, that no leaf 
may escape the action of the water ; and any leaves much in- 
fested, should be removed, so as to prevent, as much as pos- 
sible, the spreading of the enemy through the house. The 
house should also have a slight fumigation of tobacco-smoke, 
for the annoyance of the green fly and thrips, should any of 
these appear ; but should they not make their appearance, it 
is still necessary to fumigate, for prevention. On the appear- 
ance of the spider after the watering has been discontinued, 
flour of sulphur may be successfully sprinkled upon the flues 
when considerably heated, or it may be sprinkled upon the 
affected leaves. 



Jtme.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



737 



The vines sliould be examined, and all those unnecessary 
shoots, which have been already noticed as useless, removed by 
the means and in the manner before directed, so that no ex- 
penditure of the strength of the vines may be permitted, which 
will now be wanted for the nourishment of the wood and fruit. 
Those shoots which are retained for bearing next year, should 
be neatly and carefully tied into the trellis as they advance. All 
superfluous laterals, tendrils, and decayed leaves, should be 
removed, as causing confusion, and robbing the vines of a 
considerable portion of their strength. 

The fruit should, as it becomes colored, be exposed as 
much as possible to the light and sunshine ; but this is not to 
be done carelessly by sacrificing too many of the leaves, which 
is often done to the injury of the fruit. A few of such leaves 
as are overshadowing the fruit, if they cannot be put aside, 
should be cut off, leaving the whole length of the foot-stalk 
of the leaf remaining. The gi'apes will swell much better in 
a partial shade than when fully exposed to the sun; their 
color, however, will not be so high, neither will their flavor 
be so good as if they were more exposed. 

Water should now be withheld from the roots ; the syi'ing- 
ing should also be discontinued by degrees, and entirely left 
ofl* when the fruit begins to color, otherwise the fine bloom 
which enhances the appearance of the fruit will be destroyed, 
and the flavor will be less saccharine. The state of the wea- 
ther will now probably admit of the fires being also discon- » 
tinued, but this must be always determined by the indication 
of the thermometer. In wet, cloudy, or damp weather, slight 
fires may be necessary to prevent any decay among the fruit 
from damp ; all berries, as they ap|>ear in a decaying state, 
should be instantly removed, and many of them, from the 
unavoidable wounds they may have received from the sharp 
points of the thinning scissars, will show symptoms of rotten- 
ness ; these should be all removed before they infect their 
neighbours. If the weather continue damy after the fruit is 
ripe, they should be looked over frequently, to prevent all 
disposition to decay ; if this be not attended to, many of tlie 
largest and finest bunches will be spoiled. 

5 B 



Tlin niACTKAL GARDENER. 



[June, 



In gathering the crop, it is most usually done as it may be 
wanted; the vine possessing this important advantage over 
most other iVuit-bearing trees, that the fruit will remain a 
longer time after being ripe upon the trees without being in- 
jured ; and some kinds of grapes are materially improved by 
remaining upon the vines until they begin to shrivel. A free 
circulation of air, and every means used to prevent any hu- 
midity in the house, are conducive to this clicct; and when 
the bunches are cut for use, they should be examined as to 
their ripeness, for sometimes those bunches wliich appear the 
highest colored, and in other respects to be ripe, are really not 
so ripe as others, which, from appearance only, would be 
supposed to be less so. The cultivator, in this case, has a sure 
criterion to go by, as he can taste the fruit, and readily judge, 
by the flavor of one or two, of the state of the whole bunch. 
Those berries which are nearest the bottom of the bunch are 
generally the longest in ripening, these, therefore, should be 
chosen for the test ; and if they be found to possess sufficient 
flavor, the whole bunch may then be concluded to be ripe. 
When the bunches are cut, it should be as close to the shoot 
from which they issued as possible, that is, within an inch or 
so, leaving as great a length of fruit-stalk to the bunch as can 
be obtained. They should then be put into a flat fruit-basket, 
in which is placed a piece of fine paper, to prevent tlie bloom 
from being destroyed ; and when it is necessary to move the 
bunch, it should be done by taking hold of it by the foot- 
stalk, and not by handling the berries. Any of the stalks that 
supported the berries, which may have been taken ofi" for 
tasting, or which may have been removed in consequence of 
becoming decayed, should be neatly cut out with a pair of 
fine-pointed scissars, so as to give the bunch as entire an ap- 
pearance as possible. 

During the time from the berries first becoming colored till 
the crop be all cut, as much air as possible should be ad- 
mitted into the house, in order to improve the flavor of the 
fruit and assist its coloring. For this purpose, the sashes 
should be drawn down to a considerable degree every fine day, 
but immediately drawn up again on the appearance of rain. 



June.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



739 



In proportion as the fruit attains maturity, many of the leaves, 
from various causes, will appear lifeless ; their office being 
completed, they may be removed, for the purpose of admitting 
as much light and sun to the remaining crop as possible, as 
well as to ripen the wood for that of the succeeding crops 

They should not, however, be removed until they be of no 
longer use to the plants. Their removal will also clear the 
house of any remaining spiders, or other insects, that may 
have made their appearance since the watering has been 
desisted in. 

CUCUMBERS AND MELONS 

The cucumbers in frames will still require attention. Water 
and air should now be freely supplied to them in larger portions 
than hitherto. They will now require to be watered every 
or every alternate afternoon at least. Several persons only 
water once or twice a week ; but it is much better to give this 
very necessary element often, and in less quantities at a time. 
They should be freely watered over-head with a moderately 
coarse rose watering-pot, so as to wash off the dust from their 
leaves, which to all plants is always extremely injurious, as 
the dust falling upon their leaves stops the pores through 
which they are supposed to breathe, and which must, conse- 
quently, be highly detrimental to them. Independently of 
which, there is something so congenial to the growth of cu- 
cumbers in a humid atmosphere, that frequent sprinkling with 
water is necessary to their welfare. 

The plants should now have air freely given to them, by 
tilting up or drawing down the sashes according to the state 
of the weather. Unless it be cold, and very wet and cloudy, 
the linings need not be kept up so strong as hitherto; still it 
would be advisable to keep up a moderate temperature for the 
welfare of the plants. Towards the end of the month, the 
plants, if in frames, may be allowed to extend their shoots 
from under them, by having the frames lifted up, and sup- 
ported upon bricks or other props at their corners. The 
linings should, in that case, be earthed over, for the vines or 
shoots to run upon; for, by this means, the plants will extend 



710 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[J U/tC 



themselves to cover a greater surface, and consequently pro- 
duce a greater quantity of fruit. However, if the weather be 
not very favorable, this operation may be deferred till the 
beginning or middle of the following month. Those cucum- 
ber-plants which were last month planted out on ridges, and 
covered with bell or hand-glasses, may now be suffered to 
extend freely fi'ora under them, protecting them at nights, as 
already directed last month, with mats, or other coverings. 
For this purpose, the glasses should be propped up, for the 
more ready admission of the extension of the shoots. 

These plants will require frequent supplies of water, but 
not so frc(iuent as those which are confined in the narrow limits 
of a pit or frame. It is better that they be kept rather dry than 
otherwise, particularly until the end of the month. 

The cucumber-plants sown last month in the natural ground 
to produce picklers, should be thinned, when the rough leaf 
begins to advance in the heart of the plants, to the distance 
noticed last month. From this time, let them be kept clear of 
weeds, which can be easily done by carefully hoeing them ; and 
this practice will not only make the ground look neat, but will 
materially promote the growth of the plants. As the plants 
advance, let a little fresh mould be applied round their roots 
and stems, which will greatly strengthen and support them. 
They should be refreshed with water every day, if dry weather, 
but this must not be given in too large a quantity at once. 

Cucumber-seeds may still be sown, if not done last month, 
for a full crop of picklers ; for directions on this subject, see 
lasf nionth. The plants now sown will come into bearing by 
the middle or end of August, and will continue generally until 
destroyed by the autumnal frosts. 

It was intimated last month, that it would be advisable, in 
order to forward a crop of these plants, to have such a num- 
ber, as may be wanted, raised upon a bed or beds, to be finally 
transplanted where they are to remain, to ix?rfect their crop. 
At this time, such plants so forwarded will be in a fit state to 
be transplanted where they are to remain, and should be now 
attended to. (For directions for planting out, Sec, see last 
month.) 



June] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



741 



The successional crops of melons in pits or frames, will 
still require attention ; care must also be taken that they be 
shaded from the sun, when they show any symptom of flagging 
or drooping their leaves. This should be particularly attended 
to, where the plants do not stand the sun well, but shrink or 
flag their leaves considerably, or where they are situated too 
near the glass, as the full noon-sun would be apt to scorch 
their leaves, and in some degree shrink or exhaust the juices 
of the plants, whereby the advancing fruit would be checked, 
assume irregular shapes, and become stinted in its growth. 

This disposition to flag proceeds from a variety of causes ; 
the principal of which is, when the mould in which they are 
planted is too light for them, or where the dung in the beds 
has sunk unequally, and thereby caused the mould to crack 
in various directions, and by that means tear and destroy the 
roots. It also often happens when there has been a long con- 
tinuance of dull cloudy weather, succeeded by powerful sun- 
shine. From whatever cause this appearance is derived, it is 
of so much consequence to the future welfare of the plants, 
that means must be used to counteract its effects. This is to 
be remedied simply by shading them, by covering the sashes 
with a thin mat, or sprinkling dry litter, hay, or straw, over 
them, during the time the sun is most powerful. But this 
shading must not be carried to an extreme, for the plants 
should be gradually accustomed to sunshine, until at last they 
are enabled to stand it without injury. 

The plants should now have a large share of air admitted 
to them by propping up the sashes, or pulling them down, and 
drawing them up alternately. 

Water must be frequently administered to them, but not in 
large quantities at a time, preferring to give it frequently, say 
every, or every other afternoon, as soon as the sun is suffi- 
ciently off" the frames to prevent scorching. The extreme 
parts of the beds will require the most water, not only because 
the major parts of the roots are supposed to be extended 
round the sides of the bed, but also because those parts are 
more liable to be dried up by the heat of the linings while 
they are applied, and by the action of air upon the sides of 
the beds when the linings are discontinued. 



74-2 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [JvfW, 

It is not proper to give much water near the main-stem, 
either of melons or cucumbers ; and as the fruit of the former 
attains its full size, water should be gradually withheld, giving 
only a sufficiency to keep the plants alive. If the beds have 
been moulded up to a proper depth, slight waterings will at all 
times be sufficient for melons, but not by any means to that 
extent, which is given to cucumbers. While the plants are 
setting their fruit, water should be sparingly given ; and when 
any tendency to damp or mouldiness appears, it should also 
be withheld, and all dead or decayed leaves or shoots re- 
moved. Too much humidity would prevent the setting of the 
fruit, and make them turn yellow and damp off; but when a 
sufficient number are set, and beginning to swell, water may 
be more freely given, never, however, too abundantly, as too 
much moisture proves hurtful to the roots and stems of these 
plants, and causes them to rot and decay. Continue still to 
cover with mats every night till towards the end of the month, 
when the covering may be dispensed with. 

If melons were planted out last month under hand or bell- 
glasses, they should now have full liberty to extend their 
shoots from under them, as already directed for cucumbers ; for 
this purpose, if the glasses be raised only two or three inches, 
it will afford sufficient room for the branches or shoots to 
escape. As yet, little water will be required by these plants ; 
too much of it would tend to rot or chill the roots, and thereby 
prevent the setting and even first swelling of the fruit. When 
the weather is naturally wet, water from the pots may be dis- 
pensed with, and care taken that the plants be protected from 
too much of it, either by means of canvas, supported upon 
hoop arches placed across the beds, or by covering with Dutch 
reed-mats, which will carry the water off sufficiently. The 
glasses should be kept constantly over them, and air admitted 
by propping up the glasses by wedge-shaped pieces of wood, 
or other similar contrivances. 

Frames covered with lights fitted with oiled-paper instead 
of glass, are extremely useful in the cultivation of melons at 
this season, when more of that fruit is required than can be 
conveniently grown under glass ; and by such means, the cul- 
tivators for the markets are enabled to grow a great quantity 



THE FOUCIXG GARDEN. 



74^ 



at much less expense, than by using lights of glass entirely. 
Such frames may be made exactly similar to those, which are 
made to be covered with glass sashes, or they may be made 
of inch-and-half boards, extending the whole length of the 
bed or ridge without any divisions, and the back and front 
connected by rafters, on which to support the sashes. Such 
frames, if taken care of, will last for many years, and the 
lights may be used for protecting the blossoms of peaches, 
nectarines, &c. in spring, as hinted at in the Fruit Garden. 

Some gardeners use these frames fi'om the beginning, but 
the proper time for having recourse to them is when the plants 
have been forwarded under hand or bell-glasses, till their run- 
ners require training out beyond the limits of the glasses, 
which is generally the case sometime in the course of this 
month. These paper screens should entirely cover the bed 
and plants, over which they are to remain during the rest of the 
season ; they will afford protection fi'om heavy rains or tem- 
pests, as well as from nocturnal cold, and also screen the plants 
from the excessive heat of the sun, as being pellucid, they ef- 
fectually admit the influence of light and warmth. 

Where the ridges for melons have been made parallel to 
each other, the spaces between them should be filled up with 
leaves, dung, or the refuse of the garden, such as leaves of 
cabbages, weeds, and other fermentable matter ; this will give 
additional heat to the beds, and when filled up, increase the 
space on which to train the plants. The general management 
of them now differs in few respects from that of those in pits 
or frames. (For earthing up, setting, training, and pruning, 
see the preceding month.) 

Melons are subject to be infected and injured by the mil- 
dew, and also by the canker. These diseases here, as in all 
other cases, proceed fi-om bad management ; that is, the cli- 
mate is bad in which they live. There may be an insufficiency 
of heat, and the dung and mould are then too moist, by which 
I stagnated heat is produced; or it may arise from damp, 
occasioned by over-watering or imperfect sashes, and not un- 
usually from injuries sustained in their branches, by being 
bruised or too much cut at once. Nothing will prevent plants 
from the attacks of insects or disease but heat sweet air, and 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June. 



a sufficiency of water, which gi-eatly tends to sweeten the at- 
mosphere, and makes it congenial to vegetables as well as to 
animals. Nothing will eradicate disease from melon-plants 
but plenty of heat, and a due portion of water sprinkled all 
over their leaves, and air given in a quantity sufficient to keep 
the atmosphere of the beds pure, and also in a state of change. 
Plants much diseased, or much infested with insects, never 
can produce good fruit. The mildew generally makes its ap- 
pearance upon the old leaves of the plants of melons, and 
also on the extremities of the young shoots, and is caused by 
their not having healthy nourishment comprehended in the 
elements in which they grow, or that those elements do not 
harmonize in the proportion of the growth of the plants. It 
is observed by cultivators, that when a bed gets into a stag- 
nated sour state, the plants cease to prosper, the air in the 
frames becomes saturated with unhealthy particles, and so also 
must the juices be, which are imbibed by the plants by their 
roots or leaves. These, consequently, breed diseases, if means 
be not used to prevent them. 

Melon-plants at all times, particularly when approaching to 
maturity, are subject to the attack of that minute and destruc- 
tive enemy, the red spider. Whenever the temperature is high, 
and water withheld for any length of time, it is almost sure to 
make its appearance. Upon most plants it is easily got rid of, 
by simply attending to use the garden engine or syringe freely, 
and with considerable force upon the parts infected ; but upon 
melons it is not so easily subdued, as those means can seldom 
be applied, considering that too much moisture applied would 
injure the plants, and the necessary force required to dislodge 
it, would be more than the tender frame of those plants could 
bear with safety. The following remedy has been recom- 
mended by M'Phail, and we have always found it effectual in 
practice : " Get plenty of horse-dung, thrown up into a large 
heap ; turn it over once or twice, shaking and mixing it well, 
and let it lie till its rankness be somewhat evaporated ; if 
if there be linings at the beds, take them entirely away, ex- 
amine the dung in the beds, and if it be wet and have a bad 
smell, take a sharp-pointed stake, and make holes all round 
in the sides of the beds, into their centre, in such a slanting 



June."] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



745 



way, that the water may easily run out of them ; then make a 
strong lining of the prepared dung all round the beds, and, 
by occasional augmentations, keep up the linings nearly to a 
level with the surface of the earth in which the plants grow. 
As soon as the linings have cast a strong heat into the beds, 
scatter some flour of sulphur all over the plants, and keep as 
strong a heat in the frames as the plants can bear. A heat of 
120° will not destroy them, if the steam of the linings be pre- 
vented from getting in among the plants. Water the plants 
all over their leaves about once a week with clear water, 
100° warm ; and if the sun shine, keep the lights, shut closely 
down all day, and cover them up in the evening, leaving a 
little air at each light all night, to prevent a stagnation of air 
amongst the plants. Continue this process till the mildew and 
insects disappear and the plants appear to grow freely, and 
afterwards manage them in the usual way, taking care to keep 
up a good heat in the linings. This method sets the old stag- 
nated bed into a fermentation, which makes the moisture run 
out of it, and dries it, so that water given to the plants has 
free liberty to pass off. If the linings do not heat the air in 
the frame sufficiently, let some of the earth in the inside, all 
round the sides of the frame be removed, to let the heat of 
the linings rise freely into the frame. If tlie plants be kept 
in a healthy free-growing state, few insects and diseases will 
attack them ; but if they be allowed to experience a check, 
from want of sufficient heat, a too liberal supply of water, or 
such like, then insects and diseases quickly follow." 



746 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jul?/, 



JULY. 



PINE-PLANTS. 

The directions given last month, as well as those in the pre- 
ceding one being fully attended to, nothing requires to be said 
upon this subject till the beginning of August, unless it should 
so happen that the general crop of pines are cut, and many 
other plants being in the succession or other pits are in a state 
of forwardness, and intended to be fruited in autumn ; then 
the directions to be laid down next month for the general ar- 
rangement of the house, will be applicable to this month, and 
may be proceeded with accordingly. 

PEACHES. 

The crop of fruit having been gathered, and the sashes re- 
moved during the day, for the immediate purpose of improving 
the flavor of the fruit, the trees will have been sufficiently 
accustomed to the rays of the sun to admit of the lights being 
wholly removed this month, with the view of being employed 
to accelerate the ripening of late peaches or vines upon the 
flued walls ; or, if not wanted for that purpose, to be removed 
to the back sheds, to remain there till again wanted. After 
the fruit has been gathered, the peach-trees should have a 
hearty watering, both at their roots and also over their heads, 
with the garden-engine or syringe, applying the water with 
force for the suppression of the red spider, and also for re- 
freshing the trees ; which, during the time of the ripening ol 
their fruit, will have had no water given them. 

As the leaves ripen, they should be gently brushed off, to 
admit the air and sun to the branches, in order that they may 
be sufficiently matured for next year's forcing. Many of the 
shoots will spring into a second growth, if supplied too boun- 
tifully with water after the house is thrown open ; but this 
watering need not be given in such abundance. Those shoots 



Juli/.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



747 



which spring are generally only such as are kixuriant, or not 
fully matured, the consequence of which is of very trifling 
amount. 

The directions given lor the treatment of the peach-house, 
in the preceding months, are to be applied to those peach- 
houses which are coming in, in succession, making a poper 
allowance for the season. 

VINERY. 

The crop will now be ripe, and probably all cut, if not re- 
tarded or saved for particular purposes ; if such be the case, 
attention must be paid to keep up a free circulation of air, 
and to remove all appearance of decay in the bunches, by taking 
off all decayed berries, and keeping the interior of the house 
as dry as possible, unless the vines show evident signs of a 
want of water, which is not often the case, if they have been 
managed according to the foregoing directions, and the bor- 
ders have been previously well formed. In damp or cloudy 
days, it may be necessary even now to light slight fires, for 
the purpose of drying up the moisture in the house ; but this 
should be done during the day, and air given at the top of 
the house, to give the steam, which may evaporate more or 
less fi'om the borders, free means of escape, as well as to 
keep the thermometer from being materially affected. A cool 
dry atmosphere is what is wanted for their preservation, and 
all means likely to promote that end should be resorted to. 
Coal-ashes, decayed granite, or trap, the two latter of which 
have been found by Professor Leslie to be powerful absor- 
bents of moisture, may be scattered on the floors and flues of 
the vinery, or any other absorbent matters which circumstances 
or situation may offer. Coal-ashes are most generally used, as 
being within the reach of every one, who has hot-houses heated 
by coal fires. 

At this season, the fruit will remain for several weeks (par- 
ticularly some of the thicker skinned kinds) upon the vines, 
without injuring either the trees or the fruit ; or, if required 
to be kept for any greater length of time than may be found 
convenient in this way, the bunches may be cut and suspended 



748 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[July. 



from rods or strings in any cool aii-y chamber or fruit-room ; 
but where there is the convenience of an ice-liouse, ox ice-cold 
chamber, these places will be much preferable, taking care 
in all cases to remove such berries as begin to decay, before 
they contaminate the rest. 

The fruit being all gathered, those shoots which produced 
fruit this season and are not really wanted for the purpose of 
producing similar shoots for a succeeding crop, should be i)runed 
off, to give more room for those which remain, and also for such 
strong shoots as may have been retained for the like purpose ; 
and any of these latter, wliich from want of sufficient room, 
or other reasons, may have warranted their being suspended 
below the rest of the vines, should be taken up and tied in 
close with the other, so that they may enjoy all the benefits 
of the sun. and air to facilitate their maturation. 

The border should also be now watered, to such an extent 
that the water may freely penetrate to the lowest roots, but 
this watering should not be effected at one time ; beginning 
gradually, and continuing until the border be sufficiently 
moistened. This moisture is necessary to be continued until the 
leaves begin to drop, when it may he entirely dispensed with. 
The engine or syringe should also now be applied with suf- 
ficient force to dislodge such insects as may have made their 
appearance during the suspension of watering. The weather 
being now more fivorable to their propagation, they will at 
this time be in myriads on almost every tree, particularly such 
as may be termed aspcr/folii/s, or having their leaves bisect, 
with strong harsh hairs, such as the nlmus^ rasa, and many 
others. 

The house sliould be now kept as open as possible night and 
day, that the leaves of the vines may be gradually accustomed 
to stand the full force of tlie sun without the intervention ot 
glass, preparatory to the lights being entirely renioved, cither 
for the purpose of being applied to ripen late grapes or peaches 
upon the open or fined walls, or for being removed to the sheds 
until again wanted the ensuing season ; or they may be drawn 
down to their full extent, and lefit so : but this latter practice 
will not look so well, and the glass will be liable to be broken 
and the sashes injured. 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



749 



Many excellent cultivators never uncover their houses, and 
indeed the first horticultural architect of the day agrees with 
them in that opinion. In the many excellent houses erected 
from his designs, the sashes are made permanent, and venti- 
lators are fixed in the front and back walls. 

Vines thus early forced, will ripen their wood sufficiently in 
the open air, without the aid of glass at this season ; but those, 
which are late in ripening their fruit, should have the glass 
kept on at least until the wood be sufficiently ripened. Some 
persons are advocates for entirely exposing them, while others 
advocate the glass being kept on. The end aimed at by both, 
is the attainment of fully ripened wood ; and if that be com- 
pletely effected, it matters little by which of the means it is 
accomplished. Those, who merely keep the glass on for the sake 
of saving the flues and decorative parts of the structure, often 
sacrifice a more important object than that which they gain. 
All decorations in culinary hot-houses should be dispensed 
with, excepting what are necessary and useful, for in such 
structures that only is in good taste, which is of real utility. In 
the green-house, conservatory, and tropical plant-stoves, fancy 
or taste may be certainly consulted ; but the plainer the houses 
are which are intended to bring fruits early to maturity, or to 
perfection at a later season, the better ; provided they be got 
up in a respectable and neat manner. We have seldom found 
injury done to the flues by being thus left exposed by the re- 
moval of the sashes, and never to such an extent as would 
induce us to prefer keeping them on. 

The crop being gathered, there remains nothing more to 
be said upon this subject till October, when it will be again 
mentioned. Where there are other grape-houses coming in, 
in succession, their management will be exactly such as laid 
down in the preceding months. 

\ 

MELONS FOR LATE CROPS. 

Melons for crops to ripen in November and the beginning 
of October, may be obtained by growing them in flued pits, 
such as are used for nursing young pine-plants, or in pits of 
any ordinary construction, having pipes laid in them for the 



750 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[July. 



circulation of hot water, which pipes will take up but little 
space, the diameter of five or six inches being sufficient; 
and as the first course of pipes will be placed perpendicu- 
larly to the lower or returning pipe, less room will be occu- 
pied than by using flues of the smallest dimensions. About 
the middle or end of this montii, those plants which are in- 
tended for such late crops may be planted out. It is not, 
however, to be expected that fruits, especially melons, which 
require all the sunshine we have in the hottest months to bring 
them to perfection, will cither be fine or high-flavored, ripen- 
ing so late in the season. Plants for tJiis puii)ose should be 
raised fiom seeds sown the latter end of last month, or even 
the beginning of the present, in any other melon-pits or fi"ames 
in use. The process of sowing, rearing, and finally planting 
out being the same as has been directed for melons for more 
early crops, with this diflbrcnce, that they can be more de- 
pended upon, and as few accidents will attend them, ve need 
not again enter upon that head. The pit is to be filled with 
well-fermented dung, if considerably exhausted the better, as 
a mild heat only is required ; or, if composed of dung and 
half-decayed leaves, or tanners' bark, it will give a more last- 
ing and mild heat. This being prepared, and the plants 
planted out about the third week in the month ; the bed may 
be earthed all over at once, or an addition made to it, as oc- 
casion may require. The general management of them from 
this time till September, when they will be again noticed, will 
not differ from that of the plants now in their respective stages 
of gi'owth, either in pits, frames, or under glasses, &c. 

For this crop, it is necessary to select sorts of the earliest 
description ; the rule holding almost always good, that those 
which are the Dcst suited for early crops, ai'e also the fittest 
for late ones. 



Aug.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



751 



AUGUST. 



PINE-PLANTS. 

Upon the supposition that the fruit be all or nearly cut, 
a general arrangement of the pine-plants will now be neces- 
sary. The old stock of plants, which has just produced their 
fruit, and has been left in the fruiting-pit to perfect their 
Buckers, is now to be removed entirely out of the house; 
the suckers carefully twisted off, and laid by in some conve- 
nient place till they become a little dry, which will be sufficiently 
effected in the course of a week. The old plants, now divested 
of their suckers, are to be thrown away altogether ; the bark 
or leaf-bed thoroughly turned up, and all the exhausted matter 
carried away. While these operations are going on, it will be 
convenient to have the flues cleared of soot, and any trifling 
repairs done to the walls, flues, or roof of the house, that 
may be deemed necessary. The bed should be again filled 
up with such a proportion of fresh tan or leaves as will again 
raise it to a sufficient height. These new materials, as has been 
already noticed, should, in the operation of mixing, be kept 
well down towards the bottom, and a sufficient quantity of 
half-decayed tan or leaves brought up to the surface, in which 
the pots will be plunged. While the bed is thus preparing, 
select out of the succession-pits a sufficient number of plants, 
with which to fill the fruiting-pit again. If it be intended to 
fruit another set of plants during the autumn, such being con- 
siderably advanced already, they are to be fitted for going 
into this stage of growth by following the same directions as 
were laid down in February, as far as regards shifting, plung- 
ing, and otherwise arranging the plants. 

But if it be intended, which is more generally the case, that 
the fruiting-pits be now filled with those which were succession- 
plants formerly, and which will now be healthy and strong, if 
the directions given in the foregoing months have been attended 
to ; preparatory to their being removed into the fruiting com- 



752 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



partmcnt, it will be necessary that they should be exaraiiica 
as to their want of shifting into larger pots, &c. The direc- 
tions regarding potting, already given, both as to the mode of 
performing the operation, as well as the sizes of the pots 
being kept in view, we need not dwell longer upon that sub- 
ject, only so fiir as to say,, that the largest sized plants will 
require pots from twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, and the 
less strong, proportionably smaller. The pots we would re- 
commend for pines are rather ditlerent from those in common 
use, being not so deep in proportion to their diameters as the 
pots usually used. We would prefer pots whose depth cor- 
respond nearly with their diameter, as being much less likely 
to risk the burning of the roots of the plants. 

The plants being potted, and a little water given to settle 
the mould about their roots, let them be plunged into the bed 
about three parts of their depth, for fear of too much bottom- 
heat ; which, if permitted at this time, while the plants have 
been checked by being repotted, would be liable to start them 
into fruit, which, at this season, would be far fiom a desirable 
circumstance. After they have thus stood for some time, till 
the violent heat of the bed may have subsided, they may then 
be fully plunged up to their rims, observing that, in so doing, 
to set the pots level, and to endeavour to keep them so, by 
pressing the leaves or tan tightly round^them on all sides. 
The plants should be allowed as much room as possible, not 
less than eighteen inches from the centre of one pot to that 
of the next; when they are all phniged, give thera a little 
water, which repeat more freely when the heat has come up. 
It will be also necessary, after the house has been regulated 
and cleared out, to give the plants a good washing over-head 
with the syringe, to clean them of any dust that may have 
fallen upon them during their removal and potting. After the 
heat in the bed has come to its full height, watering must be 
attended to forthwith, in a regular and moderate quantity. 
The plants must now be kept going on in a steady genial 
growing heat, supplied with plenty of air when the sunshine 
is powerful enough to raise the temperature above 80°, which 
point it should seldom exceed, but be regulated from that to 
75° in the day, and from 65° to 68° during the night This 



Aug.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



753 



treatment will be the r.icans of keeping the plants in a fine 
growing state without endangering their starting- into fruit, 
which, of all things at this season, should be guarded against ; 
for those which start into fruit at this time, may be considered 
tantamount to being lost. 

The plants in the nursing-pit will now have to be put in 
order to bring into the succession-house, to be there for- 
warded for fruiting-plants in the course of a year. Many, if 
not all of them, will require to be repotted, at least most of 
the strongest of them. The bed in the succession house should 
be prepared for them, as already directed on former occasions, 
still keeping down the new or fresh tan or leaves towards the 
bottom. The flues of this compartment should also be 
cleaned, and all necessary repairs done to the walls, flues, 
and roof of the house ; the walls should also bo whitewashed 
with lime and water, to give the whole a lighter and neater 
appearance. 

The plants being potted into pots suitable to their respective 
sizes, should be arranged in the bed in a regular manner, 
keeping the tallest towards the back and the smallest in front. 
After bein^y all arrano^ed, the whole should be watered at their 
roots, and be syringed over-head. 

The crowns and suckers, which have been collecting and 
rooting in the frames or in the front of the nursing-pit, should 
now be all potted ; that is, all those which are rooted and 
brought into the nursing-pit, to be there forwarded to occupy 
the succession-pit the ensuing year, and the bed there made 
ready for their reception, as already directed for the succes- 
sion-pit. After the plants are plunged, and watered ak the 
roots, let them be syringed over-head, but not immoderately, 
as they will not be able to resist so much water as those which 
are farther advanced in growth. Those crowns and suckers 
which were taken off' the old plants, and had been laid by at 
the commencement of the regulating of the fruiting-pit, should 
now be planted in the frames in rotten leaves or tan ; these 
beds having also been previously forked up, or renewed for 
their reception. Some of the strongest suckers may be potted 
at once in small pots, in light vegetable mould, and they will 
strike root as freely as those in tlie rotten tan or decayed leaves. 

5 D 



701 



i 111. i iiAw i it. al u.au> 



Our principal object in so disposing of them in that way, is, 
that they thereby require much less room than if potted, 
and we have always found them strike roots as freely in 
that way as wheR potted from the first. In these frames they 
may remain till the beginning or end of October, and shoulcw 
then be removed into the nursing-pit, if there be room for 
them ; if not, without crowding the whole too much, the best 
and strongest should be picked out for that compartment, and 
the weaker or less valuable sorts kept all winter in frames or 
melon-pits, if there be not a division of small pine-pits for 
this purpose, in which all supernumerary and small stock can 
be kept without fire-heat during winter. This indeed will be 
no difficult matter, for pines can be wintered in well-constructed 
pits, and even brought to produce good fruit, by means of 
dung-heat alone ; but they are attended with more trouble, 
and in many cases with more expence, than where there are 
pits furnished with flues. The whole stock being thus dis- 
posed of, a brisk and lively heat is necessary to be kept up in 
the nursing-pit and frames ; which, if the beds be properly 
prepared, will be sufiicient for some time to come, in order to 
induce the plants to make good roots. There is, however, a 
line of moderation to be observed, which every one who ma- 
nages pines will endeavour never to exceed. Those suckers 
which are potted without roots should have no water for some 
days after potting, or at least until the heat in the beds be- 
comes pretty brisk; neither should they be so frequently 
watered, nor so copiously, as those which have already 
been furnished with roots, and none over the tops until they 
be better established, and the heart-leaves beginning to grow. 
Afterwards water may be freely given at the roots, and occa- 
sionally over the leaves. Air should not be very freely ad- 
mitted until the plants have emitted roots, and are beginning 
to grow ; and during this time they should be partially shaded 
from the effects of the full sun, gradually accustoming them 
to bear it as they get established with roots. After they are 
pretty well rooted, air should be given them freely, so as to 
keep the temperature during the day from 80^ to 85°. 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 755 



INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH THE PINE IS LIABLE. 

Diseases, the pine may be said to have none ; and such in- 
sects as are found upon them are the effect, and not the cause 
of any sickly appearance that they may assume. When pines 
are well managed, and kept in a vigorous, free-growing state, 
they are not only exempt from insects, but if they should 
even be introduced amongst them, they will not annoy, hut 
leave them'' 

The white scaly coccus, or mealy hug, is the most inju- 
rious insect to the pine, and although it appears almost inani- 
mate, it will soon, if not removed by the application of certain 
compositions, which appear to be destructive to them, be of 
infinite injury to the plants ; but the best of all cures is good 
management. Speechly and others describe another enemy of 
this genus, probably a sub-variety of the former, and which 
is called the white mealy crimson-tinged insect. The brown 
turtle insect, or brown scaly coccus, Coccus hesperidum, or 
bug, also infests the pine. It is nearly allied to the first, but 
not so injurious in its effects. 

Many methods have been tried for the destruction of these 
insects, with more or less effect. The following receipts have 
been used by persons long celebrated for their successful cul- 
ture of the pine : — 

" Miller recommended turning the plants out of the pots, 
and clearing the roots ; then keeping them immersed four-and- 
twenty hours in water in which tobacco-stalks have been in- 
fused : the bugs are then to be rubbed off with a sponge, and 
the plants, after being washed in clear water and dripped, are 
then to be repotted." 

M*Phail recommends the application of a strong and power- 
ful moist heat, founded upon the fact, which has been experi- 
mentally proved, that a high and moist temperature is speedily 
fatal to animals, while it does not injure vegetable life ; thus a 
moist and high temperature appears also congenial to the growth 
of pines, and while it is kept up, no insects will attack them. 

Nicol recommends the following preparation for cleaning 
such pines as are attacked with bugs ; at the same time, he 



756 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Aug. 



considers tlmt if the plants be properly niana<]jed, no insects 
will infest them: — "Take soft soap one pound; flour of 
sulphur one pound ; tobacco half a pound ; nux vomica an 
ounce ; which boil altof^ethcr in four English gallons of soft 
water, down to three gallons, and set it aside to cool. In this 
liquor immerse the whole plant, after the roots and leaves arc 
trimmed for ix)tting. IMants in any other state, and which 
are placed in the bark-bed, may safely be watered over-head 
M'ith the liquor, reduced in strength by the addition of a third 
part of water. As the bugs harbour most in tlw angles of the 
leaves, there Is the Ix'tter chance that the medicated water will 
be etfectual, because it will there remain the longest, and 
there its sediment will settle. The above is a remedy for every 
species of coccus, and for most insects, on account of its 
strength and glutinous nature. Its aj)plication will make the 
plants look dirty ; therefore, as soon as the intended effect may 
be supj>osed to have followed, whatever remains of the litjuor 
on the leaves should be washed otf with clean water. It would 
be imprudent to pour a decoction charged with such otfensive 
materials over fruiting plants. Farther, this peculiar dose, for 
a tenacious insect, is not to be a])plied indiscriminately to 
exotics in a general stove, as it might make the more delicate 
leaves of plants fall off." 

Baldwin recommends to take horse-dun? tVi^n the stable, 
the tVesher the better, sufhcicnt to make up a hot-bed three 
feet high, on which to receive a melon-frame three feet deep 
at the back ; ]>ut on the frame and lights inunediately, and 
cover the whole with mats, to bring u[) the heat. When the 
bed is at the strongest heat, take some fiigots, open them, and 
spread the sticks over the surface of the bed on the dung, so 
as to keep the }>lants from being scorched ; set the plants or 
suckers bottom upjK^rmost on the sticks, shut down your lights 
(juite close, and cover them over well with double nuits, to 
keep in the steam ; let the plants remain in this stiite one hour, 
then take out the plants, and wash them in a tub of cold 
water previously brought to the side of the bed, then set them 
in a dry place, tops downwards, to drain, and aftern-ards plant 
them. This treatment is sure to kill every insect. It must be 
observed, likewise, that the crowns and suckers in the bed* 



y1iff('] THE FORCING GARDEN. 757 

heated by Knings of dung, without fire-heat, will liavc all 
their insects killed, or be kTept free from them, if they were 
clean when planted by the effluvia of the dung." Mr. Knight 
concludes, " that the destructive agent in this case is am- 
moniacal gas, which Sir H. Davy has found to be instantly 
fatal to every species of insect; and if so, this might be ob- 
tained at a small expence, by pouring a solution of crude 
muriate of ammonia upon quick lime. The stable or cow-house 
would afford an equally elhcient, though less delicate fluid. 
The ammoniacal gas, Mr. Knight supposes, might be impelled 
by means of a pair of bellows among the leaves of the infected 
plants, in sufficient quantity to destroy animal life without 
injuring that of the vegetable; and, he adds, it is a very inte- 
resting question to the gardener, whether his hardy enemy, 
the red spider, will bear it with impunity." 

Griffin recommends : To one gallon of soft rain-water add 
eight ounces of soft green soap, one ounce of tobacco, and 
three table-spoonfuls of turpentine ; stir and mix them well 
together in a watering-pot, and let them stand for a day or 
two. When you are going to use this mixture, stir and mix 
it well again; then strain it through a thin cloth. If the fruit 
only be infested, dash the mixture over the crown and fruit 
with a squirt, until it be all fairly wet, and that which runs 
down the stem of the fruit will kill all the insects that are 
amongst the bottom of the leaves. When young plants are 
infested, take them out of their pots, and shaking all the earth 
from their roots, (tying the leaves of the larger plants toge- 
ther,) plunge them into the above mixture, keeping every [)art 
covered for the space of five minutes ; then take them out and 
set them on a clean place, with their tops declining downwards, 
for the mixture to drain out of their centre. When the j)lants 
are dry, place them in smaller pots than before, and j)lungc 
them into the bark-bed." 

Muirhcad, in a communication in the Mem. of the Cale- 
donian Horticultural Society, recommends immersing the plants 
in a tub of water, in which there has been mixed one pound 
of sulphur to every watering-pot full of water. W ith a bit of 
bass-mat fixed to a small stick, which he dips in water, lie dis- 
places as many of the insects as he can ; he then immerses the 



758 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



plants in the liquor, where they remain for twenty-four hours ; 
they are, when taken out, laid with their tops downwards to 
dry, and are repotted in the usual manner. It does not very 
clearly appear, what share either the tobacco used by Miller, 
or the sulphur used by Muirhead, has in the desti'uction of 
these insects, or whether the water alone, without mixture of 
any kind, would not answer the same end; the rubbing* off' the 
insects, which the water loosens from the leaves, appears the 
principal part in the cure. Without stopping to solve this 
question, Muirhead certainly cleared his pine-plants of insects 
in a short time, by no other means ; and of this fact we had 
ocular demonstration. Muirhead is one of the best cultivators 
of pines in Scotland, and his general good culture and assi- 
duity may be the real cause of his pines being healthy and 
clear, more than any virtue in his sulphurated water. 

Speechly recommends the following receipt, which he long 
used with success in the Welbeck Gardens : ** Take one pound 
of quicksilver, put it into a glazed vessel, pour upon it one gal- 
ion of boiling water, which let stand till it gets cold ; then pour 
off the water for use. Repeat this on the same quicksilver (for 
it will retain its power) till a sufficient number of gallons are 
provided to fill a vessel intended for the purpose : one in the 
form of a trough, that will hold eight or ten gallons, is the 
most convenient, especially for the large-sized plants. To 
every gallon of this mercurial water, add six ounces of soft 
green soap, dissolved in a portion of the prepared water ; let 
the mixture stand till it becomes about milk-warm, which is 
the degree of warmth to which it must be kept during the 
time of dipping ; which operation is performed in the follow- 
ing manner : — Before the plants be taken out of the pots, I 
would," he says, advise the brushing oft' a few of the scaly 
insects, as in a common dressing, especially towards the bottom 
of the leaves, where they will sometimes be so numerous, as 
in appearance to lie one upon another ; in which case, the 
mixture might be prevented from penetrating to the bottom in- 
sects. The leaves of the larger-sized plants should be tied toge- 
ther, as they will be more manageable in this form than with 
their leaves loose, and less liable to be damaged. The plants 
should then be taken out of the pots, and divested of their 



nu: iORCING GARDEN. 



759 



roots, as also a few of the decayed leaves at the bottom. 
The plants should then be put into the mixture, in which 
they should remain, with every part covered, for the space 
of three minutes ; then take them out, first letting the tops 
decline for the mixture to drain out of their centres. The 
vessel should be immediately filled with fresh plants, and 
those taken out set in the open air to dry, with their roots 
downwards ; for, by placing them in that position, the mix- 
ture will descend, and penetrate to the very bottom of the 
leaves in the centre of the plants, whereby the insects, which 
are concealed there, will be totally destroyed. The mixture 
will change the plants to a sad green color, which will give 
them the appearance of being spoiled ; but as they become 
dry, they will in a gi*eat measure resume their proper hue. 
During the operation, it will be necessary to add a supply of 
hot mixture, in order to keep the whole to a proper degree 
of warmth, as also to make up the deficiency which will 
naturally happen." The plants having been thus treated, 
are to undergo a second dipping in the same manner, which 
will completely clear them of these insects. In preparing the 
liquor for a second dipping, he directs to add one table 
spoonful of sweet-oil to every gallon of the mixture. If the 
oil be incorporated in two ounces of gi'een soft soap and a 
little warm water, the oil will more readily incorporate with 
the mixtui'e. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES ON THE HOT WALLS. 

From this time, and until the fruit and wood have been 
fully matured, is the most eligible season for applying fire- 
heat to fined or hot walls. To attempt to accelerate their 
growth in spring, by hard forcing, is a most injudicious prac- 
tice. It is attended with the danger of not only losing the 
crop of fi-uit, but also the lives of the trees, of which there 
is sufficient evidence on record to prove ; and almost all 
attempts to forward a crop by such means, have rarely or ever 
been equal to those, which have come on naturally until this 
season, and then been assisted by a slight heat, till they 



TOO THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. l^^f^ff^ 

have ripened. Where there are a great many forcing-houses, 
the crops of one or two, or more, may by this time be ga- 
thered ; and as the hghts are better off* than on, they may be 
})laccd on portable rafters against those hot walls, which 
ire intended to be brought forward, and thus accelerate the 
crops, in many cases, without the aid of tire-hcat ; or, if fire- 
heat be added, the maturation of both fruit and wood will be 
hastened. 

The middle or end of the montli will, in most cases, be 
early enough to apply fire-heat, whether the trees be covered 
with the gliisses or not ; that, however, must depend greatly 
on the season, for sometimes we have cold and wet weather 
in August, and in that case, the fires may be sooner used. At 
all events, whenever fire-heat is applied, it should be only in 
moderation ; for nothing can be more injurious to the trees 
than to be placed close against a burning heat on the one hand, 
whilst the other, as has been observed in April, is exposed to 
all the vicissitudes of the weather. The fires should be 
made moderate at first, increasing them by degiees as the 
cold weather advances. They should be lighted in the after- 
noon about four or five, and made up for the night by eight. 
The cavities, if the walls be built hollow, or if only with 
common flues, will be sufficiently charged with heated air, 
which will be given out through the bricks gradually during 
the night. The surface of the walls next the trees, should 
seldom feel above niilk-wann at their hottest time. It should 
• be particularly observed, not to increase the fuel or heat on 
cold nights, as is the case in the forcing-houses, otherwise 
both fruit and shoots may be damaged. A mild and steady 
heat is all that is required, and more than that would be 
productive of greater mischief than if the trees had taken 
their chance of the weather. If the fires be thus gradually 
continued till October, the fruit and wood will be sufficiently 
ripened. Some trellis the walls, as a preventive for not in- 
juring the trees ; no such precaution, however, is necessary, 
where due regard has been paid to the temperature of the 
walls, and it only serves as a plea for the more dangerous 
practice of heating the walls to an unnecessary degree ; in- 
dependently of which, the trees trained to such trellises are 



Aug.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



761 



placed beyond the power of the fire-heat, and a constant cir- 
culation of air going on between the wall and branches, they 
are kept, by that means, nearly as cool as if they were trained 
close to a common wall without any flues whatever. 

CUCUMBERS DURING THE AVINTER. 

With a view to have cucumbers fit to cut at Christmas, a 
desideratum amongst gardeners, we cannot follow a better 
course than to give the following extract from a valuable paper 
in the Hort. Trans., communicated by Mr. Alton, it being 
the practice adopted in the royal gardens. For this purpose, 
seeds of an approved early sort are sown on the twelfth, and a 
second sowing made on the twentieth of this month, with 'a. view 
to cultivate them in stoves during the winter. The plants 
are raised in a well-prepared one-light hot-bed, and when the 
seed-leaves become nearly full grown, they are potted off into 
pots of the size known by the name of upi'ight thirty-twos ; 
placing two plants in each pot. When these pots become 
filled with roots, the plants are again shifted into pots of the 
size called sixteens, and removed from the seed-bed into a 
three-light box or frame, with a sufficient bottom-heat to allow 
of a considerable portion of air being given day and night, 
both in the front and back of the frame. About the middle 
ot September, the plants having again filled their pots with 
roots, and become stocky, are taken from the frame to the 
pine-stove, and after a few days receive their last shifting, into 
pots of the following dimensions: — at the top fourteen inches 
over, the bottom ten inches across, and twelve inches deep, all 
inside ; measure oach pot at equal distances apart, having three 
side drain-holes near the bottom, and a larger one in the 
centre of the bottom, and each containing about three pecks 
of earth. 

The plants now in these pots are placed on the front edge 
of the back flue of a pine- stove, on which flue is fixed a 
fapa-hoarding six inches deep, and extending the whole 
length of the house, forming all along a trough, or inclosure, 
for a reserve of compost after the exhaustion of the mould in 
the pots has taken place. The pots are here placed in 

6 E 



762 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [^^^g* 

regular order on the mould-trough over the flue, at three feet 
apart, and remain in this station for succession. A setting of 
the second sowing is placed on the end flues of the house ; 
underneath each pot is placed an upright circular garden-pan 
six inches deep, and fourteen inches diameter, which being 
filled with earth, the pots are placed therein about two inches 
deep, and the drain-holes being sufficiently covered with mould 
serve for outlets for the roots. 

The temperature of the stove w^as kept up day and night at 
60° or 65°, varying only a few degrees, when the sun or steam 
produced a sudden increase of warmth. The plants being 
established, and in vigour, require stopping for laterals and 
fruit, and those second and third lateral shoots, in their turn, 
are stopped also, and the blossoms from time to time set as 
usual for succcssional supply. 

Water becomes necessary only when the surface of the pota 
becomes evidently dry, and then a slight sprinkling of soft 
water is given, after being tempered by standing some time 
previously in the stove ; this is sprinkled over the leaves of the 
plants with good eflbct. 

The house is occasionally steamed by pouring water upon 
^e flues, which produces a fine genial vapour, evidently useful 
to the plants ; but care should be taken that this operation be 
regulated, so that any scalding of the leaves from it when the 
▼apour is too hot, may be guarded against. 

When mildew appears, flour of brimstone, colored leaf- 
green, with a little soot, is sprinkled over the leaves and shoots 
affected; and copious fumigations of tobacco are given, to 
subdue such species of the aphis tribe as may make their 
appearance. By this simple process, cucumbers have been 
produced abundantly in the months of October, November, 
December, and part of Januai-y, in all the royal gardens, 
during a scries of years. 

Where there is not the convenience of a stove for the re- 
ception of these plants, a small pit, heated by hot water, will 
be found to answer the purpose of growing cucumbers during 
all the winter months ; such pit, however, should be so con- 
structed, as to admit of a person getting in with facility to 
examine the state of the plants, and to regulate them according 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



763 



to their wants ; as, during that season, the sashes cannot be 
opened to admit of that operation without running a risk of 
having the plants injured by being exposed to the cold. Many 
gardeners, however, contrive to cultivate these plants so as to 
cut their fruit by Christmas, and often during all the winter 
months, by using only the common hot-bed and frame. This, 
however, is a precarious and laborious method, and cannot be 
effected except with plenty of dung, which is, for the most 
part, rather a scarce article in gardens. One great objection 
to the common dung-bed and frame for this purpose, is the too 
great abundance of steam, which naturally follows a strong 
bottom-heat, without which a sufficient temperature cannot be 
kept up during the winter months. To obviate this, pits have 
been built at the suggestion, we believe, of Mr. Gould, one of 
the assistants in the royal gaiulens at Windsor, and one of 
the most successful cultivators of this plant in the country, 
the principle of which is founded on just and rational ideas ; 
namely, heating the atmosphere of the pit, by admitting 
the heat of dung linings to enter it without passing through 
the body of mould in which the roots are growing. Steam is 
precluded, as the heat has to find its way into the bed by 
passing through the tiles or bricks which form the sides of 
the pit. M'Phail's pits, already noticed, are in principle 
somewhat similar, but are much more expensive in the first 
erection, and always require a greater quantity of dung to 
keep up the necessary temperature. A sufficient degree of 
steam may be produced at any time in these pits by sprinkling 
water on the heated brick-work ; and still farther to defend 
the plants from the danger of damping, the shoots are trained 
to a trelhs near the glass, which trellis may be so constructed 
as to be elevated close to the glass in fine weather, or let down 
from it when it is unfavorable. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Sept. 



SEPTEMBER. 



NURSING PINE-PLANTS. 

The directions recommended last month for the plants in 
this compartment, are applicahlc also to the present month, 
as long as the wcatlicr continues mild, and while the temperature 
remains as high as 70° or 72° during the night. On its fiilling 
holow those points, recourse must be had to fire-heat ; but this 
should be applied with caution at so early a period in the 
season. However, if the weather be cold and damp, slight 
fires will be necessary, not only to dry up the superabundant 
damp in the pit, but also to assist the temperature. The 
pine-plants of this age, in pits wrought with dung linings 
should be attended to, and the linings renewed as often as 
necessary to keep up a genial gi'owing lieat, so as not to check 
the growth of the plants, as they should be forwarded with all 
reasonable expedition at this time, for during the succeeding 
winter months they will not make much progress. 

Air should be admitted accordingly as the state of the 
weather will permit. In fine warm days it should be freely 
admitted, and in close damp weather the plants will be liable 
to sutFcr, if kept long shut up from a free circulation, and be 
a])t to damp and rot at their hearts. Where there are no fire- 
flues, the watering over-head should be gradually lessened, 
and only given in fine clear days, when the sun is sufTicicntly 
powerful to dry up the superfluous damp ; but where there are 
fire-fiues, it should be still continued, as by their assistance 
no danger can accrue to the plants, and the steam produced 
from the spilt water after the fires are lighted, will be very 
congenial to the })lants, while, at the same time, it will be 
noxious to their insect enemies. The i)its or frames, in which 
the young pine-plants still remain, should, towards the end 
of the month, be regularly covered every night with mats, or 
Dutch reeds, or canvas coverings, increasing the covering as 
the nights get colder, taking every possible care to fold up 
the ends of the mats, that they may not conduct the steam of 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



765 



the linings into the frames or pits in too large a quantity. 
Those plants which are still not rooted, either in or out of 
pots, should only be slightly supplied with water, as it is ne- 
cessary now to withhold that element gradually. Those which 
are well rooted, and in pots, should have water once in three 
or four days, as they may require. It should still be given 
frequently, but less in quantity as the winter approaches. 

SUCCESSION PINE-PLANTS. 

The directions already laid down for the plants in the nursing- 
pit, are applicable also to the plants in this stage of growth. The 
temperature, however, here must be kept as near as possible 
to 65°. The times of regulation being still at six o'clock in 
the morning and eight at night. The temperature throughout 
the day may with sun-heat be allowed to rise to 70° or 72°, 
but not above that point. The plants must be supplied with 
a moderate watering once in three or four days, but that ele- 
ment should not now be given in such a quantity as during 
the former months. 

Air should be freely admitted every fine day ; and when the 
weather is less favorable, it should be given in proportion to 
the state of the temperature of the pit. 

FRUITING PINE-PLANTS. 

The plants shifted and regulated last month, will now be 
growing fast, they therefore should be encouraged by every 
possible means. A mild, genial, though not burning heat, 
should be kept at their roots, and the plants liberally supplied 
with water. Liquid manure should also be applied, which 
should be continued once every week or ten days during their 
growing season; that is, from the time that they begin to 
grow vigorously until the fruit be half-grown, after which time 
it should be discontinued, as tending to injure the flavor of 
the fruit. Clear water then only should be given, and that 
reduced in quantity as the fruit attains maturity, as has already 
been noticed. The application of manure, in a liquid state, is 
the most convenient mode of enriching the mould in the pots 
after the plants have been finally potted. 



76G 



THE phactical gardener. 



In giving water to the roots of the pines, the middle of the 
day should always be chosen, at least from September till 
May ; the intervening months being warm, the watering may 
be performed either in the mornings or evenings. At all 
times, when the plants are watered at their roots, the water 
should be applied through a tube, having a funnel at the end, 
into which the water is poured, and made into several pieces, 
to be shortened or lengthened at pleasure ; the lower end, or 
that next the plants, should be bent downwards, and perfo- 
rated with many holes for the water to pass through. By using 
this tube, the plants can then be conveniently watered from 
the outside of the pits, without injuring them, or wetting the 
bed too much. The plants should also be watered over-head 
once a week with the syringe, and the steaming resumed, by 
pouring water on the flues and floor of the house, while the 
flues are sufficiently heated to produce that fine moist exhala- 
tion so necessary to the growth of the pine and so destructive 
to insects. 

Many cultivators of the pine water them during summer, 
and some few during winter also, over-head with a rose water- 
ing-pot ; this practice hastens the decay of the tan, or what- 
ever other matter the bed may be composed of; and as all 
plants in the same bed do not require the same quantity of 
water at all times, we would recommend giving the general 
waterings at the roots, as above, and the occasional waterings 
over-head with the syi'inge ; this practice will consume a little 
more time, but each plant will then be supplied according to 
its wants. 

The temperature, at the times of regulation, should be kept 
to from 65° to 70°, allowing an advance of 5° or 8° in the 
middle of each day from sun-heat. 

As the winter approaches, care ought to be paid that no 
water be allowed to remain in the hearts of the plants, either 
from the watering-pots or from defects in the glass; when 
such cases occur, the water should be drawn up with a tin 
tube, or if it be only in a small quantity, it will pass off" by 
evaporation, if the house be shut close up, and a brisk heat 
thrown into it by the flues. During the summer, pines will 
sustain no injury fi'om this cause ; but from this time until 



THE FORCING GARDEN, 



7G7 



May, a SLiix?rabunclancc of water, either at their roots or lodged 
in their hearts, will be very injurious to them. 

MELONS FOR LATE CROPS IN PITS HEATED BY FIRE-HEAT. 

The plants planted out in July will now have spread over 
the pits, and will be considerably advanced in fruit. If the 
weather be dull or wet, it will be necessary at the beginning, 
if not at the middle of this month, to apply a slight fire-heat, 
in order to forward the fruit, and more especially to dry up 
damps to which these plants at this season are extremely 
liable, and which is to them of that injurious nature, that if 
not guarded against and repelled, will entirely destroy not only 
the fruit but the plants also. 

The temperature in the pits, however, should be kept very 
moderate at first, and gradually increased as the cold and the 
season advance. If the temperature be kept during night 
at 70°, and allowed to rise with sunshine to 80°, there will 
be a chance of having tolerably handsome, but not well-flavored 
fruit : the season for imparting flavor being over by the time 
this fruit will be ripening. Water should be very sparingly 
applied either to their roots or over their leaves; once in 
eight or ten days will be sufficient, unless the temperature be 
kept higher, which, in that case, they will require water more 
frequently for the welfare of the plants, and to guard against 
the red spider, which in such pits are apt to make their appear- 
ance even at this late period of the season. 

The operation of pruning must be attended to, and no more 
vines allowed to remain on the plants than may be sufficient to 
nourish the fruit ; all dead or decaying leaves should be care- 
fully removed, and all appearance of damp or mouldiness re- 
moved. The fruit should be fully exposed to the sun by lay- 
ing the leaves aside, which may overshadow them ; or, if they 
be carefully lifted up on an inverted flower-pot, or any such 
article, to within a few inches of the glass, they will enjoy a 
greater share of its influence. Should the red spider make its 
appearance, it will be much safer at this season to expel it by 
sprinkhng a little flour of sulphur upon the flues when heated, 
or by dusting it finely over the infected leaves, than l)y a too 
abundant application of water. 



768 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



OCTOBER. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF PINE-PLANTS. 

Din'ing this month, the same treatment as directed for the 
former month should be continued. The temperature, how- 
ever, of each division, should now be reduced gradually a few 
degrees, say two or three ; that is, fi'om 70^ or 72^ to 69° oi 
68°. Artificial heat is not to be now applied to excite the 
plants to grow in the herb, that is, to increase in size, but 
merely to prevent any check to the roots from cold or damp. 

On the approach of cold nights and dull foggy weather at 
the beginning of the month, fires will be wanted in the fruit- 
ing-pit, and probably also in the others ; but by the middle 
or the end of the month they will be indispensable in all the 
compartments where fire-heat is used. Those pits which have 
not the convenience of flues will now^ require strict attention to 
keep up a sufllicient temperature, but great care must be taken 
not to exceed the necessary degree, for much more caution is 
necessary in the management of pits heated by dung or leaves 
in a state of fermentation, than in the compartments heated by 
means of fire-heat ; the former being subject to many changes 
from the state of the atmosphere and that of the materials with 
which they are composed, over which the cultivator has little 
controul. The fires can be liglited or put out in a short time, 
and thus a temperature can be sustained almost to a single 
degree for a length of time; whereas, if any material alteration 
take place in the beds of fermentable matter, either by their 
falling or rising to too low or too high a temperature, they are 
not so soon to be rectified. Nothing but attention and obser- 
vation, and a frequent examination of the watch-sticks in the 
beds, and guarding the linings against the eflJects of too much 
cold, rain, or wind, can guard the cultivator at this season 
against sudden changes in these compartments. 

Air must be admitted as the state of the weather will |>er- 
mit, and should now particularly (as well as at all other times) 



Oct.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



7C9 



be admitted in a regular manner, so that every part of the 
house or pit may derive an equal benefit from it. A constant 
circulation of pure air is always necessary to plants confined 
in an artificial atmosphere, whether they be growing fast or 
remaining almost stationary, excepting on particular occasions 
when it is less necessary, as when the plants are forming roots 
or immediately after shifting, when they are to be kept more 
close and shaded. 

Water should now also be gradually diminished, as well at 
the roots as over their heads. It is, however, better to give 
it rather frequently, but gradually in a less quantity, and some 
of the plants will probably not require any for some length of 
time. This must be left to the good judgment of the operator, 
who should examine the pots frequently. It is better that the 
plants be kept now rather dry than too damp. 

VlNERlf FORCED EARLY THIS SEASON. 

The vinery forced early this season, will by this time have 
its wood sufficiently ripened to admit of the operation of 
pruning being performed, preparatory to its being put in order 
for forcing early next year. As soon, therefore, as the leaves 
fell, or are falling, the wood may be then considered as fully 
ripened, and this will be the case towards the middle, if not 
towards the end of the month. The advantages of early 
pruning, that is, pruning some considerable time previously 
to the plants being again set in motion, are too obvious to 
require any comment, more particularly with those which are 
intended for hard forcing. Plants become habituated, by cer- 
tain treatments, to change their natural seasons of coming into 
vegetation, cither in respect to their being forwarded or re- 
tarded. Thus this vinery, which was begun to be forced in 
February, may the year following be forced with safety in 
January, if required. In order, then, to prepare them for 
thus early coming into vegetation, it is necessary to prune 
them at or about this time, for, by so doing, the wounds will 
be completely healed, and no danger arise from bleeding, 
which would be extremely detrimental to their springing vi- 
gorously ; and when once begun to bleed, it is not readily 



770 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



stopped, to which all vines are liable that are not pruned until 
they be on the point of being put into a vegetating state. 

Great has been the difference of opinion regarding the 
manner in which vines ought to be pruned ; and every one who 
has either wTitten or practised, as a matter of course, lays 
much stress upon his own mode. We have already ob- 
served, that neither the training nor pruning of this tree is of 
that material consequence to the production of superior crops 
as some other circumstances, which are connected chiefly with 
the food with which it is fed, whether from the border in which 
they are planted and supplied by the roots, or from the at- 
mosphere in which they breathe and arc fed by the leaves. If 
these two points be properly managed, the vine will be found 
to produce abundant crops under a variety of modes of prun- 
ing and training, as every person of observation must have 
repeatedly witnessed, not only in the vineries in this country, 
but also in the vineyards on the continent. To have a suffi- 
cient supply of proper bearing wood, is the object aimed at 
by every vine cultivator, and that mode which is adapted to 
produce this effect is certainly the best. 

Some are advocates for long pruning, that is, laying in 
shoots of great length, while others are satisfied with the short 
shoots or spurs produced near the older branches, and the 
whole length of which seldom exceeds a few joints ; others 
probably with greater judgment, adopt a sort of intermediate 
mode of pruning, by not only retaining some shoots of con- 
siderable length, but also a number of short ones, as well as 
some of the spurs. 

The vine is a plant of so accommodating a disposition, that 
it is capable of being trained almost in any way that the fancy 
may suggest. The mode of training them directly up the roof, 
if planted in front of the house, or directly up the trellis, to 
"which they are to be attached, if planted against the back wall, 
is one as convenient and rational as can be adopted. There- 
fore, in proceeding to give them their principal or winter 
pruning at this time, some observation is necessary, so that 
enough of bearing-wood may be retained, and no more ; and 
that a reasonable portion of the old be removed, not only to 
make room for succeeding young wood, but to induce a dis- 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



771 



position of always keeping the vines, as it were young, by 
never allowing any old wood to remain that can be cut out, 
unless it be those which are well provided with younger 
branches, and convey, as it were, their younger shoots towards 
the more remote parts of the space to be so covered. All old 
wood that can be thus spared should be first removed, even 
some of such shoots as may be of several years' growth, and 
that have acquired a considerable diameter towards the root ; 
such of these as are not well supplied with young bearing- 
wood, better than any that may be contiguous to them, should 
be entirely removed fi^om the very bottom. Such shoots as 
were laid in during summer, and which will have attained a 
considerable length, should be shortened more or less as the 
regular distribution of young wood may require ; and such of 
the smaller and short shoots that have been stopped, and 
treated like spurs, should be shortened into one, two, three, 
or four eyes, according to their several strengths, and more 
or less of them removed according as the space may or may 
not be filled sufficiently with young wood. This shortening 
in of all the shoots in the house depends much less upon any 
specified length than upon the regular distribution of young 
wood throughout the whole; the stronger and well-formed 
shoots should, however, always be preferred to those which 
are less strong; therefore, the principal supply of bearing- 
wood is thus to be selected fi'om the shoots trained in and 
reserved for this purpose during summer, and the smaller 
spur-like shoots to be resorted to as substitutes where there 
may be a deficiency of the former, as the finest fruit, in re- 
gard to size, &c., will be produced from the stronger shoots ; 
but grapes, in flavor equally good, will be the produce of such 
as are of a less luxuriant growths It should always be a prin- 
cipal object in view in the training of every tree, to secure a 
sufficient stock of proper wood at the bottom, as all trees are 
naturally inclined to push stronger towards their extremity ; 
this habit, however, must be counteracted by using the knife 
more freely towards these parts, and thus ensuring a plentiful 
supply of wood at those parts, which, if once suffered to be- 
come naked, cannot be so readily filled up again. In shorten- 
ing the shoots, of whatever size, cut an inch or an inch and 



772 



THE PRACTICAL GARDEN'ER. 



[Oct. 



half aboTC the last eye, so as not to injure it, as it is likelj 
to push the strongest of any of them ; and always make the 
cuts in a sloping direction, so that no moisture may be induced 
to lodge in the spongy pith of the wood : this precaution 
should also be attended to in amputations of larger branches, 
and the wounds smoothed over with a sharp knife. 

The pruning being finished, some recommend to take off 
the loose outward bark with which the older branches are co- 
vered, which may readily be done by rubbing it between the 
hands, and all that becomes fi-eely disengaged without using 
much force may be taken away, observing not to injure the 
smooth bark ; and, for greater caution, always make use of the 
hand, but never the knife only. This removal of the outer bark 
will be of advantage to the vines, but we would prefer delaying 
the operation of removing it till shortly before the plants are 
to be put into a state of vegetation. Clear the trellis and 
branches of all decayed leaves, pieces of old matting with 
which the vines have been formerly tied up, and also all 
tendrils. Then carefully wash the stronger branches of the 
Tines, the trellis, and all the wood-work of the house, with 
clean water. This being done, anoint the vines and treUis 
with a wash prepared in the following manner : — Slice down 
two pounds of soap, but if soft soap can be procured it will be 
better, of which take two pounds : two pounds of tobacco, or 
three of tobacco-paper, such as is used in the manufacturing of 
tobacco, and which contains a large portion of the oil expressed 
in the process. Put these into a tub, and pour over them as 
much water as will, when the soap is beaten up into a lather, 
have a pretty thick consistency, so as not to run off the trees 
when applied. When these are well beaten up, and all the 
soap dissolved, add two pounds of flour of sulphur previously 
worked up separately to the consistence of thick paint ; when 
this is added, the whole should be well stirred, and applied 
to the shoots of the vines and trellis by means of a sponge, 
allowing as much as possible to remain upon the branches. 
This wiU destroy any insects that may be alive or may be har- 
bouring imder the bark cf the vines, or at least it will be the 
means of preventing the retiun of them when the trees are 
put into active vegetation. This cleaning should be agmin 



Oct.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



773 



performed in the two following months, as from the nature 
of the season, particularly if the glass be off, the ingi'edients 
will be liable to be washed off by heavy rains, &c. 

The shoots and branches should be now regularly laid in 
and properly tied to the trellis, dividing the whole as regu- 
larly over the space as possible, and placing them at regular 
distances from each other ; and should it appear that any 
shoot is ill-placed, or too many left, they can be now removed 
or shortened, more particularly the young shoots, so that when 
they come to break into wood, they may not be too thick and 
crowded. In regard to the naked stems, some of which will 
still remain on the vines as conductors of the young wood to 
the remote parts of the trellis, it matters not how close they 
are placed together, as from them no shoots are to be allowed 
to issue ; and where it is necessary, some of the young shoots 
may be trained upon them, which will hide their more naked 
appearance. The matting chosen for tying up the vines should 
be new and fresh, as it will in some cases have a considerable 
weight to sustain ; and, in tying them up, care must be taken 
to allow plenty of room for their future swelling- 

The borders of the house may be slightly dug over, which 
will give a neater appearance to them, until they be again put 
into a state for forcing ; and, if it be deemed necessary, the 
borders, both inside and outside of the house, may be mulched 
over with a coating of good half-rotten dung. 

By the beginning of this month, the vines in pine-stoves, if 
any be planted on the outside of the house, and trained up the 
inside rafters, as is the usual mode, should now be taken out of 
the house and trained to the front outside, or to stakes placed 
for this purpose in the ground, where they should remain till the 
end of December, or till such time as it may be thought proper 
to take them in again. This has been our practice for several 
years, but many excellent cultivators do not take them out at 
all, and we find this was the practice of -M'Phail, and is 
also the practice of Mr. Shepherd, of Sunbury, a commercial 
cultivator, and of many other successful vine-growers of the 
present day. 

Amongst the various modes of training the vine in vineries, 



774 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct, 



we will select the following methods, as being applicable for 
the generality of purposes : — 

The mode of Nicol, which he recommended in his works, 
and which he long successfully practised, is as follows : If 
the vines be trained up the roof, " there should be three 
ranges of bearing shoots ; viz. one range at the bottoni of the 
trellis, from end to end of the house, reaching from within two 
feet of the gi-ound to five or six feet upwards ; a second reach- 
ing from a foot, or perhaps two feet under the tops of these, 
that is, from within seven or eight feet of the ground to the 
distance of fourteen or fifteen feet upwards from it; and a 
third range, reaching from a foot or two under the tops of 
these last to the uppermost row of wires on the trellis ; the 
shoots of the first or lower range being headed at about five 
or six feet ; those of the second or middle range about seven 
or eight, and those of the third or uppermost at about nine 
or ten feet in length ; all a foot or two more or less accord- 
ing to their strengths, or to the height or lowness on the plants 
from which they have issued, and to the extent to which 
they have sprung, and the maturity they have acquired. The 
distance at which these shoots should be placed from each other 
in their respective ranges is about thirty inches, which distance 
is necessary to give room to the stubs of next year, on which 
the clusters are to hang, as in this season ; and which dis- 
tance may be varied a few inches, according to the kind of 
grajH's, some growing stronger than others. 

" The undermost shoots on the trellis, or those placed 
nearest to the ground, and which were only trained to the 
height of a few feet, must be shortened back to two or three 
joints : it being a principal point in the training of vines 
always to provide for a supply of bottom-wood, and to keep 
young wood as near to the gi'ound, or lower parts of the plants, 
as possible." 

Speechly recommended and adopted in the Welbeck gardens 
the Dutch mode of training, which consisted of perpendicular 
shoots being induced to issue from two horizontal branches 
laid in near the ground, in the first or second year's growth ot 
the plant. These perpendicular shoots were to be regularly 



% 



Oct,] THE FORCING GARDEN. 775 

renewed every fourth y.^ r, and from them spurs issued, which 
produced the crop, as well as some few shoots laid in with 
them. During the first three years of this mode of training, 
few gi'apes were produced, and prohably from that cii'cum- 
stance it has been almost universally laid aside. 

Forsyth's method of training vines, which he recommended 
and adopted in the royal gardens at Kensington, was some- 
what similar to the last ; but, instead of laying in the shoots 
perpendicularly, he trained them in a serpentine form, from 
an idea of making them break more regularly. 

M'Phail describes the fan manner of training vines, and 
which, he observes, has been long practised where there is 
extent of space. We feel inclined to justify this practice, as 
being that of all others the most likely to produce an equal 
distribution of young bearing-wood over the tree with the least 
trouble or confusion. 

Hay ward recommends planting only one vine in each house, 
and allowing it to fill the whole space intended to be covered ; 
founding his theory very justly on the well-known fact, that 
the greater the distance which the sap has to flow through 
the vine, the more abundant and high-flavored will the fruit be. 
He proposes training either in the horizontal manner, from two 
leading shoots, or in the wavy horizontal manner : he appears 
to give the preference to the latter plan. The only objection 
to filling one house entirely with one kind of grapt, is the want 
of variety. Those who have witnessed the abundant crops of 
fine-flavored grapes produced from the celebrated Hampton- 
Court vine ; the large vine (said to have originated from a cut- 
ting of it) in the gardens at Cumberland Lodge, and many 
others of large size, will be convinced that vines in general 
have not sufficient roof allowed them, and that one plant will 
be amply sufficient for a large vinery. 

The deputation of the Cal. Hort. Soc. in their Horticultural 
Tour, describe having seen vines in a garden at Ghent, which 
were planted outside of the house, and only their bearing 
branches taken in ; the wood produced this year is trained 
to a trellis outside the house, and the following season is 
brought in to produce its fruit, while another set of wood is 
forming outside for the succeeding crops. Even at Ghent, 



t7G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



this method is not always found to succeed, in consequence of 
the young wood not becoming sufficiently ripened during au- 
tumn ; consequently, in this country, little dependence can be 
placed upon it, from a similar cause. 

J. Scton, Esq., in a communication to the London Hort. 
Soc, published in their Transactions, gives the following sci- 
entific method of training the vine, and which he has practised 
in his garden with success. 

*' The vine having, like other trees, a tendency to produce 
its most vigorous shoots at the extremities of the branches, and 
particularly so at those which arc situated the highest, it gene- 
rally happens, when it is trained, as is most frequently done, 
across and upwards, from the front to the back of the house, 
that the greater portion of the fruit is borne near the top, 
while the lower parts are comparatively barren. This takes 
place whether the branches be made to consist chiefly of vigo- 
rous terminal shoots, preserved at considerable icngth, or the 
leading shoots be kept short, and lateral spurs be left for 
the production of the fruit; but in the latter case the evil 
exists in a smaller degree : for the spurs, or short lateral 
branches, divert the sap in its ascent, producing, by means of 
its flowing to their extremities, an approximation to the effect 
of long branches. The same inconvenience would occur, to a 
certain extent, if the vines were trained in a like manner in 
the open air, but it is greatly augmented in a house, in con- 
sequence of the air being much hotter, as every one knows, 
at the top than below. Having observed that the fruit pro- 
duced on the vigorous shoots, which usually grow at the ex- 
tremities of the long branches, is generally more abundant, 
and of a finer quality, than that produced on the short lateral 
ones, I was desirous to promote the growth and preservation 
of the former ; but the usual mode of training the branches 
across the house and upwards being subject to the objection 
above mentioned, and little scope being afforded for it in a 
house of small dimensions, I thought," he says, " I should 
obviate these inconveniences in a great measure, and attain 
another object, presently to be mentioned, by training the 
branches in a horizontal direction, and keeping the whole of 
the fruit-bearing part of each tree nearly on the same level.'* 



Oct.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



777 



Wilh a view to reduce these ideas to practice, he phmted 
five vines at the ends of a house twenty-five feet in lenf^th 
which for this purpose was provided with rods placed hori- 
zontally under the glass of the roof, twenty inches asunder, 
and extending from end to end. The first vine, placed at one 
end, being trained up to the two lower rods, a shoot of it was 
laid along each of them, and continued successively from year 
to year till it reached the other end ; then the shoot on the 
lower rod was turned upwards to the next, and led back upon 
it towards the stem of the tree, whilst that on the upper rod 
was turned down, and led back in like manner on the lower 
one. During this process, a sufficient number of spurs or 
short branches were left annually on the old wood to produce 
fruit. When the leading shoots, which had been thus trained 
in a retrograde direction, approached towards the end, whence 
the original branches proceeded, preparation was made for a 
succession of young wood, by bringing forward two fresh 
shoots fi'om the stem of the tree, and leading them along 
close to the preceding ones. As these, and the leading shoots 
of the first branches, were then on their return advancing, the 
spurs on that part of the old wood to which they had reached 
were cut out to make room for them, the naked stem only 
being left. When the second series of branches had returned 
nearly to the end at which the trunk was situated, the first 
series, on which there was then but little of the herbage re- 
maining, was cut out at the trunk. Fresh shoots were then 
brought forward to succeed the second scries ; and so on 
without end. It would be superfluous to dwell on the mode 
of managing the other trees, as it will be perceived that, on 
following the same principle, they must be laid along the 
higher rods in succession, two rods being allowed to each 
tree ; and when the stem is not at the end of the house, two 
branches are to be trained eastward and two westwai'd along 
the rod. This, in a house of twenty-five feet in length, in- 
stead of having only fifteen or sixteen feet to admit of the 
length of a branch, as would be the case under the usual 
mode of training across the house, we have a range of thirty 
feet, which affords ample scope for the long shoots at the 
extremities : and these I find, when laid in the horizontal 



778 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



position, and left from three to five feet long, according to 
their strength, usually bear fruit at all their buds, while the 
spurs on the old wood are also very productive. 

Griffin, a very successful cultivator of the vine, approves of 
planting outside the house, and introducing the shoot through 
a hole immediately under the rafters. He trains up one main 
branch under each rafter, and the fi*uit is produced from 
spurs, or side shoots, issuing from the sides of it. These 
spurs are cut in to one eye, or bud, at every winter pruning. 
In course of time, this main stem becomes ragged, and too 
full of spurs ; when such is the case, it is wholly removed, 
having previously obtained a substitute for it from its lower 
parts, which is to replace the one taken away and managed 
in a similar manner. The leading shoot of this main stem 
is stopped during summer, leaving it three or four Joints in 
length, and in the winter pruning, this is cut clean off, and 
also occasionally a portion of the end of the main stem, when 
the top of the house becomes too crowded. By this method 
great regularity may be attained; and as the fruit-bearing 
shoots extend only a short distance from the main stem, more 
light and sun-shine will of course reach the fruit, particularly 
if they be stopped at the first or second joint above the fruit, 
which is amply sufficient for drawing up nourishment to it. 
To allow the shoots in this case to attain any considerable 
length, can be of no real utility, as they will ultimately be 
pruned oti' at the winter or general pruning ; while, during their 
growth, they only tend to exhaust a share of the strength of the 
vine, which will be diverted to the fruit when the practice of 
stopping them is adopted. 



Nov.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



779 



NOVEMBER. 



NURSING PINE-PLANTS. 

Winter will now be fast approaching, and an opportunity 
for making up the beds sufficiently strong to last till February 
or March, may not occur after the beginning or middle of this 
month. It is therefore necessary that every department of 
the pine-pits should be substantially made up to last till that 
time. 

Make choice of fine weather, the benefit of which should 
never be lost, whenever a general arrangement is going on in 
these departments. Proceed to remove the plants as before 
directed, by having them carefully taken out of the bed, tied 
up, and such as may be in want of support from standing 
loose in the pots, supported with neat sticks. The plants will 
not now require a general shifting, neither do we think that a 
general shifting should ever take place, unless rendered neces- 
sary by some unforeseen event, which does not often occur ; 
but the plants should be shifted as they may individually re- 
quire it ; thus they should be examined every time that they 
are taken out of the bed, for the purpose of having it renewed. 
Such only, therefore, as seem to be in want, should be shifted, 
and at this time it should be performed with care, so as not 
to injure the roots nor destroy the balls, unless they be hard, 
or the roots much matted or decayed ; in such cases, the balls 
should be gently broken, the roots separated, and all decayed 
«nes removed, and then repotted into pots corresponding to 
the size of the plants. If the roots be much injured at this 
season, there is little chance of their forming new ones till the 
spring ; therefore, it is of little consequence whether the old 
decayed roots remain attached to them among the few good 
ones they may chance to have, and which may be able to sup- 
port them till the spring, or whether they may be cut out ; which, 
however, cannot be well done without in some degree injuring 



780 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Nov. 



the few healthy roots amongst them : such, therefore, as are 
in a very bad state in this respect should be shifted. 

Any dead or injured leaves should be cut off, with the view 
of giving the plants an appearance of greater neatness and 
health. The bed should be thoroughly turned over to the 
bottom, and a large portion of the most reduced matter taken 
out to make room for a sufficient quantity of fresh prepared 
tan or leaves, to keep up a due temperature during winter. 
The tan or leaves now to be introduced, sliDuld have been 
previously prepared, by being fermented and turned over once 
or twice, in order that every part may have undergone a suf- 
ficient degree of fermentation, and be less liable to heat to an 
immoderate degree when put into the pits, as well as to con- 
tinue to a greater length of time in a steady regular heat. 

" It is a common practice," Nicol very justly observes, ** to 
add a large proportion of new bark or tan at this time, 
with the idea of keeping up a strong heat to resist the cold oi 
winter, and some also keep up a high temperature throughout 
winter from the same mistaken idea, than which nothing can 
be more pernicious to the plants ; hundreds of which are cast 
out in spring, after having cost much trouble and expense. If 
the season be tlormant, so ought and so will be the plants, in 
despite of all our exertions to the contrary. It is, therefore, 
a vain and futile striving; a striving against the stream, to 
force or indeed to attempt to force them into activity, without 
the congenial help and assistance of that * life and soul of 
vegetation,' the sun." 

Presuming that the flues have been cleaned and the house 
white-washed, as advised in the foregoing months, the plants 
should then be placed into the bed again in the same regular 
manner already directed, keeping the tallest behind and the 
smallest in front next to the glass. It may not be necessary 
to plunge them to their full depth till towards the end of the 
month, for fear of the heat in the bed becoming too powerful 
for their roots, which might be highly detrimental to them at 
this period, more so than at any other ; for if they now lose 
their roots, or have them much injured, they will not be able 
to furnish themselves with others till the spring. Their re- 
maining, therefore, all winter without roots, or with their 



Nov,] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



781 



roots much injured, will be the greatest injury they possibly 
could sustain. 

Towards the end of the month, therefore, when all danger 
of an over-heat has passed, they should be plunged up to the 
rims of their pots, taking care during the operation to set 
them level, so that they will contain water sufficient for their 
nourishment until they be again regulated. The tan or leaves 
should be kept clear of the surface of the mould in the pots, 
so that the same effect may be. attained, as well as to enable 
the operator to determine whether they be or be not in want 
of water. When replaced in the bed, they should have a 
little water to settle the mould about their roots, and in a fine 
day be gently dewed over-head with the syringe, to clear them 
of any filth which they may have contracted during their re- 
moval and replunging. The water now used for this purpose, 
as well as for watering at their roots, should have the chill 
taken off previously to using, by mixing a sufficient quantity 
of hot water to the cold, to render it nearly equal to the at- 
mosphere of the house. 

The temperature should now experience a further reduction 
of from 70° or 68^ to 64° or 66°, at which it should be kept 
during the winter. Attend to mat or otherwise cover up such as 
remain in frames or pits heated by dung-heat, in order to be able 
to keep up a temperature equal to the above degree. In plung- 
ing the plants into their winter habitations, they may be placed 
nuch closer together than they have hitherto been, as being the 
means of getting in as many plants as possible, with the view of 
lessening the necessity of so many different compartments. 

Continue to admit fresh air as freely as the state of the 
weather and the heat in the pits will admit of. It is better 
that the pits should be under their regular temperature for a 
few hours, than that the stagnated air should be too long con- 
fined, observing to shut up early enough in the afternoon so 
as to admit of the heat of the sun ; raising the temperature 
sufficiently before the pits are covered up. The waterings 
must now be gradually lessened in quantity, and once every 
six or eight days will be found sufficient, observing now to 
give ilie necessary waterings in the forenoon of the finest days 
until the return of spring. The syringing over top should 



782 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



also be given at tlic same time, and only in a moderate quan- 
tity ; but in proportion as this is decreased, recourse must be 
had to tlie production of steam from the flues, by pouring 
water upon them as before directed. But in the frames or 
pits worked by Hnings of hot ckuig, it will not be necessary, 
as there will always be a sufficient moisture arising from the 
bed to answer every purpose required. 

SUCCESSIONAL PINE-PLANTS. 

The successional pits will now require also to have their 
beds turned over from the bottom, observing the directions 
already given for the nursing-pits. The plants here should 
also be carefully examined, and all those shifted which appear in 
want of it ; taking care to break their balls as little as possible, 
unless they be so hard and matted as to indicate a state of ab- 
solute want of room. The plants which are the most forward 
in growth should be shifted into pots of a larger size, in order 
to give them a chance of making roots or of continuing in 
growth, if they be so disposed. The temperature by fire-heat, 
which will now have become necessary, should be kept uj) to 
as near 60° as possible, allowing a rise of 5°, that is, to 65° in 
sun-shine ; it should not be permitted to reach a higher degree, 
but be kept down to that point by means of the admission of 
fresh air. As the cold weather approaches, the watering* 
should also be less frccjucnt, and umch less in (luantity. The 
syringing should also be more moderately a|)plied, and the 
humidity of the compartment kept up by means of steam, pro- 
duced by pouring water on the flues while they are sufficiently 
warm. Air should be regularly and freely admitted while 
the weather continues open and fine ; but should it continue 
for many days damp or cloudy, give air regularly over the 
pits, and keep up the temperature bv means of slight fires, 
even during the day. 

FRUITING-PIT. 

The foregoing directions arc applicable to the plants in this 
compartment. The bed will recjuire to be carefully turnid 



Nov.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



783 



over, a large portion of the exhausted matter removed, and 
a supply of fresh matter brought in to replace it, which has 
been prepared as directed for the nursing-pits. The plants 
that require shifting should now undergo that operation, and 
when replaced in the bed, should be plunged only half or 
three parts, until the heat of the bed may have been positively 
ascertained not to be too strong for the roots. Towards the end 
of the month, the heat will have sufficiently subsided to admit 
of their being plunged to the rims of the pots. The same 
precautions must be used to keep the surface of the pots clear 
of the tan or leaves, for the purpose of allowing their being 
watered with ease, according to their several necessities. Any 
dead or decayed leaves should be removed by cutting them 
off ; but at this time avoid taking off' any from the bottom of 
the stem, as their remaining on will prevent the emission of 
roots from that part till their shifting in spring, when it will 
be of more service to them. Give a slight watering after 
plunging, both at the roots and over-head, observing now to 
take the chill off* the water as already directed. They should 
also be syringed over-head, but only sufficiently to clear them 
of dust. Water must be now given in a much less quantity 
each time, giving a little and often, taking care to spill as 
little as possible on the bed, which would have a tendency to 
produce a too rapid decay, and consequently a decline of heat 
before the season will be sufficiently favorable for its renewal. 
The steaming should be attended to, accordingly as the system 
of watering is less persisted in. The temperature should be 
kept as steady as possible at the point recommended for the 
succession-pit. Air should be admitted as circumstances w'ill 
admit of, but rather raise the temperature by slight fires 
throughout the day, than allow the stagnated air to remain too 
long unchanged in the house. 



PEACH-HOUSE. 

At this time, the peach-house to be forced next season should 
be pruned and put in order, for the same course of trcatnuMit 
which has been followed during the past season. (For full 
directions, see January,) 



784 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



VINERY. 

If the operation of pruning and dressing the vinery were 
not done last month, it should now he proceeded in without 
delay, observing the rules therein laid down. 

CHERRY-HOUSE. 

Towards the middle of this month, it will be well to examine 
the state of the trees in this house, whether they be planted 
out entirely, or whether they be in large pots or boxes. Those 
which are in pots or boxes that appear sickly, weak, or that 
have not a sufficient number of flower-buds upon them, should 
be taken out and placed with the stock of those trees in pre- 
paration, to be from time to time taken into the house. To 
make up for such trees as may seem worn out, or unfit for pre- 
sent use, take in an equal or sufficient number of fresh trees. 
(See January.) Carefully examine the whole, and let them 
be now pruned according to their several necessities, that they 
mfiy be in readiness for forcing again early in the ensuing year. 
Cherry-trees having been once forced, seldom after require much 
pruning, as they do not often make much wood under glass ; 
all that may be neressary will probably be to regulate and 
thin tlieir spurs, when too much crowded, and to cut out the 
superfluous, and all such as appear weak, or are dead ; any 
breast-wood that may have been made since the crop was ga- 
thered, should now be displaced. 

The leading shoots, and those in the lower parts of the 
trees, need not be shortened, except for the purpose of in- 
ducing wood to fill up any blank or vacancy. But if it be 
necessary to shorten them, let them be cut pretty well in, as 
otherwise they will push very weak shoots at the extreme 
parts of the trees, and those that require shortening for the 
above purpose, need not, however, be cut so closely in. If they 
be headed back one-third or to half their lengths, it will be 
found sufficient. Such trees as are brought in for the first 
time, will require to have their shoots shortened in proportion 
to their strength ; for, if left at their whole length, they will 



Nov.] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



785 



break weak, and if too many buds be left on, many of them 
will be shed at breaking. 

When all the trees have received their necessary pruning, 
let them be carefully washed all over with the preparation re- 
commended in the Fruit Garden, taking care not to rub off 
any of the buds in the process. When they are all washed, 
let them be arranged according to their respective heights : 
the tallest next the back, and the dwarf ones in front. The 
whole house should be cleaned thoroughly out, the flues 
cleaned, and all made ready for commencing forcing, either in 
the subsequent months of January, February, or March. 

It is to be observed, that the same directions are also appli- 
cable to apricots and plums 



FORCING SEA-KALE AND ASPARAGUS. 

These two esteemed vegetables should now be put in pre- 
paration for forcing, so that their produce may be fit for the 
table at a season when few of the delicacies of the garden are 
to be procured. These vegetables, from their habits of growth, 
are extremely well calculated for early forcing; the former 
being much improved by that process. (For directions, see 
Januari/.) 



5 II 



780 



IHE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Dec. 



DECEMBER. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF PINE-PLANTS. 

I'ho rules laid down last month respecting the different com- 
partments of the pines, should, during the present one, be 
duly attended to. A steady temperature now is necessary, as 
well as attention to the proper supplies of water and air ; the 
former of which should be given as necessity may require, but 
not to an excess at this season, when the plants are almost 
in a dormant state. Air, however, should be admitted on all 
fiivorable occasions. 

Such of the pits as are wrought by dung-heat, should be care- 
fidly attended to, in order that their linings be sufficiently 
powerful to keep up the necessary temperature within the pits, 
and that they should be regularly covered up every night, 
carefully disposing of the ends of the mats, so as not to be 
left hanging over the linings, which would be apt to confine 
the too powerful steam within to the injury of the plants, as 
well as preventing the free escape of the steam from the ex- 
ternal linings, and conveying it into the pits. Avoid covering 
up too soon in the aflernoon, unless the heat in the pits be 
rather low, and take the covering off every morning by sun- 
rise, in order that the plants may enjoy as much light as pos- 
sible. When snow is fiilling, or has fallen throughout the 
preceding night, it should be carefully swept off as it falls ; 
for if the plants be long excluded from the light and permitted 
to remain long covered with snow, they will consequently 
suffer according to the length of time in which they are so 
precluded from the light of the sun. It is indeed true, that 
in countries such as Russia, the pine-pits and houses are often 
covered for weeks during winter, when the thermometer is 
20° below zero, with mats and even boards to prevent the 
weight of snow which has fallen upon them from breaking in 
the roof-glass, and the plants are af\cr all brought to pretty 
good perfection ; but as we live in a more temperate climate, 



Dec] 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



787 



where we need seldom leave them covered up for more than 
twenty-four hours at most, we should, therefore, use no less 
diligence to prevent this comparatively ti'ifling exclusion, and 
render it of as short and less frequent occurrence as possible. 

PEACH-HOUSE. 

It may be necessary to remark, that if the peach-house 
were forced early during the past season, the buds will be 
much swelled, and be liable to be injured by very severe 
frosts ; therefore, to guard against such an accident, the lights 
may be put on, but it must be strictly observed that they be 
drawn down every day, in order to keep the buds from swell- 
ing too rapidly. Unless the weather be very severe, they 
should be even left off all night ; the only motive for their 
being placed on now is to secure the buds from injury from 
intense frosts. 

VINERY. 

If it be intended to commence forcing vines in January, the 
directions laid down in that month respecting the vinery being 
put into preparation for beginning in February should be ob- 
served ; but if it be intended not to begin till February, the 
house must remain in the state in which we left it in October, 
observing to have the vines and trellis again washed with the 
preparation there noticed. 

It is seldom that the shoots or buds of vines are injured by 
cold, provided the wood has been properly ripened in autumn ; 
the glasses may, therefore, be with safety left off till a short 
time previously to their being put into a state of vegetation ; 
and where, from the construction of the houses, the sashes 
are fixed, air should be admitted as freely as possible to the 
vines both day and night. 

We have noticed already, that opinions are at variance whe- 
ther the vines should be uncovered or not; in our practice 
we have often left them covered, and very often filled them 
with the hardier green-house plants for protection during 
winter, and as often had them uncovered, without any sensible 
advantage or disadvantage attending the succeeding crops. 



7SS 



THE PKACTICAL GAKOLNER. 



ON THE FORMATION OF HOT-HOUSE BORDERS AND 
PLANTING THE TREES 



In the preceding twelve months we have conducted tlie 
young horticuhurist through a series of management apphcahle 
to the forcing of peaches and vines, which, if acted upon in 
fully established houses, where the trees and vines have been 
planted for some years, and which are supposed to have been in 
a healthy full-bearing state when we took up the subject m Ja- 
nuary, will, it is presumed, be attended with success. But, 
as it not unfrequently happens that additions are made to the 
extent of forcing-houses, as well as considering that all houses 
must have been once planted, we will take up the subject in 
another form, and suppose that the houses are finished, and 
the planting to commence during winter or the ensuing spring. 

To prevent unnecessary repetition, we will suppose the 
houses are intended to be furnished with borders inside and 
out, and that the trees are to be planted within the house, 
waving all comments on the structure of the building, which 
has already been treated of, and confining our views alone to 
the general culture of the trees 

PEACII-HOUSE. 

The bottom of the peach-house is supposed to be rendered 
perfectly dry by being properly drained, and the mould en- 
tirely excavated to the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, 
and that the floor has been made impenetrable to the roots 
gaining a greater depth. Having, in the former part of this 
work, advised the collecting of various loams and moulds to 
be always in readiness, and kept in a state of preparation in 
the compost yard, we proceed to direct, that such as we have 
already recommended for the peach-tree borders in the Fruit 
Garden, are what should be also chosen wherewith to fill up 
the new forming peach-house borders. As soon as the bor- 
ders are in a fit state to be formed, which may be any time 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



during winter, when the frost is not too severe, (or it' they 
have been formed in autumn so much the better,) proceed by 
bringing in the prepared mould, and filHng up the excavated 
space, observing that it must not be attempted if the weather 
be by any means wet ; the mould will be dry, having, as we 
have before directed, been laid up in ridges, so that the wet 
could pass freely off after each turning. In filling up the bor- 
ders, the mould should not be much trodden upon, but allowed 
to sink of its own accord, an allowance being made for it, 
by filling the borders up a foot higher than they are ultimately 
intended to be. 

Upon the supposition that the flues and parapet or front 
wall stand upon pillars, in order that the roots by that 
means may pass freely out of the house, care must be taken, 
in filling up the borders, to have all these spaces between the 
pillars properly filled up with the prepared mould, accordingly 
as the process of filling the border proceeds. If this be not 
duly attended to, the mould will naturally sink, and thus a 
space be formed, which will prevent the roots from gaining 
the outside borders, being in itself a very serious misfortune, 
and the cause will not be perceptible until the trees have sus- 
tained a material check. If the mould brought in be in a fit 
state wherewith to fill the border, as far as regards moisture, 
it will not be amiss to push it in rather firm in such cavities, 
with the view afterwards of obviating all pressure on that part 
of the border, and thereby preventing any injury to the roots ; 
but after the house has been finished, and during the three 
or four subsequent months, these spaces should be examined, 
and filled up where they sink. The borders being finished, 
both without and within, and the glasses on, the whole may 
then be supposed to be ready for planting. 

It is a matter of much importance to the future success of 
the trees, that they be well chosen, and it is of still greater im- 
portance to the proprietor, that the selection be well formed, 
which, however, is no easy task. The many mistakes made 
by some nurserymen, in sending out trees under wrong names, 
occur so frequendy, that if twelve trees be planted, three or 
four out of the number prove incorrect ; and this is not, nor 
can be, detected until too late, when the trees are estabhshed 



l ui: ruAt'TK AL (i Arii)i:N LR. 



and ill ii lull-bearing state. The only alternative then is to 
grub them up and substitute others, or to bud them with such 
sorts as may be more desirable. This is not only a disappoint- 
ment in the loss of the fruit, but those trees which are thus a 
second time planted, are long (if ever) before they overtake 
the others ; and during the whole of this time, the house has a 
patched appearance. The kinds being determined on, (see our 
lists,) the next thing to be considered, is the choice of the trees. 
Some prefer older and some younger trees ; but those of two 
years training, if they have been well grown, be very healthy, 
not over strong nor luxuriant, and free from disease and in- 
sects, as far as can be a^^certained, are to be preferred. If it 
has been anticipated that such would be wanted, it would be 
an advantage if the trees had been purchased the year pre- 
ceding, and planted in any favorable aspect, and in a bed oi 
prepared mould, or planted in large boxes, which could be 
easily taken to pieces, and plunged in the border till wanted. 
Their removal at this time would be attended with no risk of 
their sustaining injury, and there they could be trained to an- 
swer the situations in which each might be placed when finally 
planted. Some gardeners will not plant the trees in their 
houses until they have seen them in fruit. This is acting 
with certainty as to the kinds of fruits wished for ; however, 
trees of that age cannot be safely transferred from a distance 
without sustaining some injury, and indeed they can only be 
safely used for the planting of a peach-house, when they have 
been grown for a year or two on the walls of the garden, 
where they are to be afterwards used for planting a house in 
the same garden. Such trees will be less liable to run into 
luxuriance of growth, and will therefore come into a bearing 
state sooner than those which have been planted younger. 

In whatever way the trees are to be planted, that is, either 
as standards planted in the borders in the middle of the house, 
or trained to the roof, back wall, or in any other way, it is 
advisable to plant out the trees that arc to be considered as 
permanent at regular distances from each other ; which dis- 
tances should be determined on in proportion to the length, 
width, and height of the house. Between such trees should 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



791 



be planted others of a greater age, to come into bearing sooner, 
say the year following the planting, and to be cut out by dc 
gi-ees as the others advance which are intended to be perma- 
nent. Such trees are denominated standards, or riders, and 
are generally on stems of considerable height, so as to fill the 
top part of the house, while the dwarfs or permanent ones are 
filling up from the bottom. Those trees which are planted for 
temporary crops, should not be less than three or four years 
trained ; and if even of a greater age, if healthy, and having 
the appearance of plenty of blossom, so much the better, as 
it is desirable to have them produce fruit as soon as possible ; 
and if the dwarfs thrive, they will require to be removed in 
three or four years entirely, if intended to be replanted. But 
it most generally happens that they are allowed to remain, 
particularly in large houses, until they be cut out by degrees, 
to make way for the permanent trees as they advance and oc- 
cupy the space. 

The planting should be carefully performed, the roots well 
singled or separated out, and the pits of a proportionable size 
for the roots ; after planting, they should be moderately wa- 
tered at their roots, and slightly fastened to the wall or trellis 
to prevent their being broken. They should not be shortened 
nor headed down until the end of March or the beginning of 
April, at which time they will begin to vegetate, and should 
then be headed in, in the following manner : — The dwarfs, or 
permanent trees, should have " the shoots on the lower 
branches cut back to two or three buds, that the wall or trellis 
may be furnished from the bottom with young wood. The 
uppermost shoots may be shortened back to half or one- 
third of their lengths, according to their strength, provided 
they have been well ripened, and are fi'ee from mildew or 
canker ; but if they be anywise diseased or injured, let them 
be cut so far back as to get rid of the cankered, injured, or 
diseased parts." 

The riders, or standards, need not be headed nor cut 
in much ; the object being rather to throw them into a bear- 
ing state than to cause them to push into strong wood, which 
would not be so fruitful.** 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



If they have been well ripened, and the shoots moderately 
strong, a light crop may be exi^ectcd of them the first year, 
and a full crop the second after planting. 

As the shoots of the permanent trees or dwarfs advance, let 
them be carefully laid in, and fixed to the wall or trellis, about 
nine inches apart, and kept carefully free of insects throughout 
the season. 

The shoots of the standards or riders may be laid in closer, 
and of course in greater number, it not being intended that 
they should grow so vigorously as those of the permanent trees 
or dwarfs. In all other respects, their summer pruning, 
training, &c., is the same as has been already laid down for 
peach-trees fully established. 

During the whole season, the newly-planted trees should 
be freely supplied with water at their roots, and their branches 
and leaves should be regularly washed with the syringe or 
garden engine, to keep the leaves clear of dust, as well as to 
refi"esh them and suppress the red spider. This watering 
over-head should be applied with considerable force every two 
or three days. Upon the appearance of the gieen fly, recourse 
must be had to fumigations of tobacco until the enemy be 
subdued. 

It is of the utmost importance to the welfare of the trees 
that air be regularly and freely admitted to them during the 
early part of the summer, and after the middle of June, the 
house should be thrown open day and night ; shutting it up, 
however, during heavy or continued rains, which, if not at- 
tended to, would too much saturate the borders about the 
roots. 

These points being attended to, the trees will be in condi- 
tion for gentle forcing the subsequent year, and will be in ex- 
cellent order for regular forcing the third year, which forcing 
may, if desired, commence by the latter end of January or t-he 
first of February. 

Should the season chance to be cold, backward, or wet, it may 
be necessary by the middle of September to shut up the newly- 
planted peach-house, in order to facilitate the ripening of the 
wood to the extremities of the branches, and a little fire-heat 



TUy FORCING GARDEN. 



793 



during cold damp weather, may also be necessary, still farther 
to assist that necessary point. As soon as all the shoots of 
the smaller and middle size become of a brownish color at 
their lower parts, and the fruit-buds upon them appear full 
and easily distinguished from the wood-buds, fire-heat may 
be then discontinued. The stronger shoots of the permanent 
or dwarf trees will continue to grow later than those of the 
standard or rider trees ; but as such are to be considerably 
shortened back in autumn, in order to cause them to push 
wood to fill the wall or trellis, their being ripened to their 
extremities is matter of much less consequence, provided that 
they are properly ripened or hardened at their base. When 
fire-heat is discontinued, and the shoots ripened properly, the 
trees should be exposed to the full changes of the weather as 
much as possible, only guarding them against too much cold 
rain, which is always injurious to the peach-tree. In Novem- 
ber they should be pruned, and otherwise put in order, pre- 
paratory to their being forced the following spring. (For 
directions as to pruning and training, see the Established 
Peach-House, already taken notice of) 

During the summer months after planting, the borders of 
the peach-house should be mulched, that is, covered with 
littery dung, or indeed any similar matter capable of prevent- 
ing the drought from penetrating to the roots of the trees ; 
this is of much use, and is too often neglected, not only in 
this case, but also :n regard to all fruit-trees, planted cither 
on the walls or even as standards. It lessens the labour of 
watering, and, by preventing too rapid evaporation, keeps 
the mould lound their roots at nearly the same degree of 
moisture. 

VINERY. 

The preparation of the new borders of the vinery should 
be proceeded with, when the weather is dry and not frosty, 
(provided that they have not been formed in autumn,) as they 
should all be got ready by spring for the final planting of the 
young vine-plants. The season of planting vines extends 

5 I 



794 



THE I'KACTICAL GAKDr.NEIV- 



from Autumn till March, and often later. Vines planted in 
May and June have succeeded to the fullest expectation; 
however, where circumstances will admit, any time from 
January till March may be considered a good season. The 
borders, both within and without the house, should be pre- 
pared by being, in the first place, rendered perfectly dry by 
draining or otherwise, and this should be done in a substan- 
tial manner ; for after they are formed, and the vines planted, 
it cannot be so elFectually done, and it is of the utmost con- 
sequence to the future welfare of the vines, that they should 
be placed on a dry bottom. Their roots naturally extend to 
a great distance in quest of nourishment, and are therefore 
apt to penetrate beyond the limits of borders, which are too 
scantily formed for them, either in depth or breadth. When 
they extend beyond the limits of prepared borders, if the soil 
be naturally cold and damp, the fruit will not be of fine flavor, 
and, consequently, many of the berries will shrivel, assume a 
sickly color, and ripen prematurely, and be not only desti- 
tute of flavor, but actually sour. The foundation of the 
borders should be well drained, and a floor constructed on 
the same principle as has been recommended for fruit-tree 
borders, so that the roots cannot penetrate it. Over this floor, 
a thick stratum of lime-rubbish, or similar matter should be 
laid, over which the border should be formed of light rich 
loam, well ameliorated by frequent turning over and exposure 
to the atmosphere ; to this loam, however rich in itself, a 
moderate quantity of well-decomposed dung should be added, 
and the whole brought to a sufficient degree of lightness by 
the addition of well-prepared vegetable mould, to which may 
be added a portion of lime-rubbish, broken bones, shells, or 
similar matter. 

In the formation of vine-borders, horticultural wTiters have 
fully given their various opinions, and the following prepa- 
rations have been recommended by men eminently successful 
in the culture of the grape. Speechly, in the formation of the 
borders in the Welbeck Gardens appropriated for vines, 
adopted the following method: — '* One-fourth part of garden- 
mould, (a strong loam,) one-fourth of the sward of turf from 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



795 



pasture where the soil is a sandy loam, one-fourth of the 
sweepings and scrapings of pavements and hard roads, one* 
eighth of rotten cow and stable-yard dung mixed, and one- 
eighth of vegetable mould from reduced and decayed oak- 
leaves. The sward should be laid on a heap till the grass- 
roots are in a state of decay, and then turned over and broken 
with a spade ; then put it to the other materials, and work the 
whole well together." 

Nicol recommends the border to be formed as follows : — 
" One-half strong hazelly loam, one-fourth light sandy earth, 
one-eighth part vegetable mould of decayed tree-leaves, and 
an eighth-part rotten dung, to which may very properly be 
added a moderate quantity of lime or shell-marl : these articles 
should be perfectly decomposed, and intimately mixed, before 
planting." 

M'Phail recommends to " provide a large quantity of earth 
of a loamy nature ; that from arable-land, or from a ridge in 
which a hedge-row of hazel, maple, elm, &c., has gi'own for 
many years, and has been grubbed, is good, or a spit-deep 
from a common, which has been long pastured, or from the 
head or end lands of a corn-field, either of which will do 
very well." 

Griffin, of Woodhall, in Hort. Trans., after having rendered 
the bottom perfectly dry, it is then covered with brick, stone, 
or lime-rubbish, about six inches thick, and over this is placed 
a compost of " half good loamy soil with its turf ; one-quarter 
of rich solid old dung, and one-quarter of brick or lime rub- 
bish, the turf well rotted, and the whole well incorporated." 
Judd, in a communication in the same work, recommends 
half rich gritty loam from a common, one-quarter of rich old 
dung, and a quarter of lime-rubbish, tan, and leaf-mould 
mixed together. These materials, he recommends, to be kept 
separate, and turned often during the winter, or before they 
are used. After being well mixed, but not sifted, he lays them 
on a dry prepared bottom to the depth of three feet. He uses 
much less dung than is usual in forming borders for this pur- 
pose, being convinced that the vine is rather injured than 
improved by a too liberal application of that material while in 



79(> 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER 



a young state. The borders being prepared, they may be 
considered fit for the reception of the young plants. 

As is the case, in the planting all fruits, much care should 
be taken in the selection of the plants, both that they be the 
desired sorts, as well as that they be plants of fitting size and 
well rooted, without such be the case, there can be little hope 
of success. 

Plants originated from cuttings, and which have been two 
years cultivated in pots, and have been properly treated and 
trained as a single shoot, are most generally preferred, par- 
ticularly by Nicol, Justice, and others ; and although many 
persons prefer plants originated from eyes, or single buds, 
the latter, if properly treated, are decidedly the best ; but it 
is difficult to procure them equally strong as the former, par- 
ticularly in the nurseries. Where such plants are preferred, 
it is, if possible, better to grow them on purpose, or cause 
them to be grown by some respectable nurseryman. They are 
generally better furnished with roots, and always make stronger 
plants than those, which are propagated cither by cuttings of 
considerable length, or originated by layers. The latter mode 
of propagating the vine is very generally in use, but they 
seldom are found to make so great a progress afterwards, as 
those which have been propagated from single eyes. 

An expeditious mode of propagating the vine is often prac- 
tised by Mr. M'Donald, in the Dalkeith Gardens, and de- 
scribed by P. Neill, Esq. in the Edinburgh Encyclopedia, Art. 
Hort. This mode, however, is not applicable, unless in a 
garden where there are vines already established, or where per- 
mission can be obtained in the garden of a friend. Towards the 
end of J une. or beginning of J uly, when the vines have made 
new shoots from ten to twelve feet long, and about the time 
the fruit is setting, he selects any supernumerary shoots, and 
loosening them from the trellis, bends them down so as to be 
able to introduce the bent part of the shoot fully within a pot 
filled with rich mould, which is kept regularly moist. The 
shoot, thus introduced, should have a portion of the old wood 
from which it issues, containing a joint, also covered with the 
moidd in the pot; a moist warm air is maintained in the house 



THE FORCING GARDEN. 



797 



during the time tlie operation is in progress, and in about a 
week or ten days, the roots will hav^ formed principally from 
the joint of old wood sufficient to admit of the shoots being 
disengaged from the parent-plant. It not unfrequently occurs, 
that the shoot, thus furnished with roots, has upon it one or 
two bunches of grapes, which, under his excellent manage- 
ment, are found to come to full perfection, even when disen- 
gaged from the old plant. Plants, thus originated by the 
beginning of July, generally attain, by the beginning of Oc- 
tober, the length of fifteen or twenty feet. By these means, 
and under good management, a new vinery might be stocked 
with plants in three months as completely as most grape- 
houses are furnished in as many years, in the way and under 
the management which too generally prevails. It has been 
supposed, that plants originated by this method, are not so 
durable as plants by slower means, but this does not coincide 
with the opinion of Mr. M'Donald. An enlightened horti- 
culturist observes, that, supposing they were found to be less 
so, it would be easy to keep grape-houses constantly stored 
with healthy fruit-bearing plants, and that the kinds might be 
changed almost at pleasure. When it happens, he observes, 
that too much bearing-wood has been trained in, the plants 
would be relieved, and sufficient sun and air admitted, by thus 
removing two or three shoots ; and supposing these to contain 
each several bunches of some fine sort of grapes, they are not 
lost, but may be ripened by placing them in any other vinery or 
hot-house, where they would perfect their fruit. Mr. Loudon, 
with that zeal for which he is so eminently (distinguished, as 
a promoter of horticultural knowledge, suggests the advantage 
of ringing the layer at or below the tongue, to facilitate the 
formation of roots. 

The borders and plants being in readiness, they may be 
planted at any time during the winter or spring, so that it is 
done before the eyes are too much swelled, or the young 
shoots begin to break. Some, however, even prefer to plant 
so late as May or June, and in such cases olten succeed per- 
fectly. In planting so late, care must be taken to perform 
Oie operation carefully, so that the plants may sustain no 



798 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



check; which, if it should happen, the progress of the 
vines would be trifling dtiring the first season. In planting, 
either at an early or late part of the season, the plants should 
be carefully turned out of the pots, reducing the ball only 
sufficiently to disentangle the roots that may have grown in a 
matted manner round the outside of the balls next the pots. 
The plants should be placed in the pits made for them just as 
deep as they were in the pots ; their roots singled out care- 
fully, and a little well-broken vegetable mould filled in round 
and among the roots. When thus planted, a little water 
should be given to settle the mould about their roots. If 
planted at an early part of the season, they will only require 
to be protected from severe frosts, or too much wet, till they 
begin to push young roots. If planted, after they are con- 
siderably sprung into shoot, they will require a moderate 
supply of water frequently, and to be shaded from the sun 
for a few days after planting. 

As the shoots advance, they should be carefully trained 
into the trellis, allowing only three shoots to remain on each 
plant, displacing all the others with the finger and thumb. 
All laterals should be pinched off, except one or two of the 
uppermost, which should always be left, lest by any accident 
the leading shoot be injured or broken, and, in that case they 
may serve for substitutes, although they are never equal to 
the leading shoot ; gi*eat care should therefore be taken to 
guard the principal shoots from injury; and, in tying them 
to the trellis, sufficient room should be left in the ties to admit 
of another shoot of equal size, with the view of preventing 
any injury from the swelling of the shoots. 

The two side-shoots left on each plant should be stopped 
when they advance, the one from five to six, the other from 
eight or nine feet from whence they spring. The middle or 
leading shoot should be carefully trained in, as long as it will 
grow, without stopping. 

Air should be daily admitted in a sufficient quantity, ac- 
cording to the weather, so that the shoots may not be drawn 
up weak, and the temperature regulated in the early part of the 
season to about 65°; but, as the season advances, and the 



THE FORCING GARDEN". 



799 



plants become stronger, the temperature may be allowed to 
rise to 70° or 75° ; but the latter point should be considered 
the maximum, unless for a few hours in clear sun-shine, when 
the weather is naturally w^arm. As the plants advance in 
growth, give a liberal supply of water both at their roots, 
and over their leaves, to keep them in a vigorous state of 
growth; for no fruit-bearing tree requires more of that ele- 
ment, while in a growing state, than the vine. Occasional 
waterings at their roots of the drainings of the dunghill, will 
be found to be of great service to them ; or, as a substitute, 
water in which rich animal manure has been steeped for 
some days, and applied to their roots, when it is of the color 
of porter. The plants should be daily well watered over the 
leaves with clear soft-water, applied with the syringe with 
some force, which will tend to keep the red-spider in subject- 
ion, as well as refresh the foliage, and keep it clear of dust. 

A careful watch should also be kept for the thrips^ which 
in dry weather makes its appearance, somewhat similar to the 
red spider, and will easily be discovered by the curling up of 
the leaves. On the least appearance of this insect, fumiga- 
tions with tobacco must be immediately applied, and fre- 
quently continued until the insects be quite destroyed. It is 
no ordinary fumigation that will rid the plants of the tJirips 
when once established. It must be applied with greater 
strength, and continued much longer than for the suppression 
of the green-fly. Should the latter insect only appear, fumi- 
gations less powerful will be sufficient. 

This process being adhered to, the vines by the middle of 
September will have made good shoots, and if the season be 
very favourable, probably fire-heat will be unnecessary for the 
purpose of ripening the wood. Should the season be other- 
wise, and th<* shoots appear still succulent and green, then 
slight fires wilf be necessary. This should, however, be 
determined, not so much by the state of the weather as by the 
state of the shoots. If the lower part, by that time, be not 
turning of a brownish color, it is then decidedly time to apply 
slight fire-heat, in order to promote the perfection of the wood. 
It has been justly observed by Nicol, one of our best practical 



8()0 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



authors on this subject, that some would put this matter off, 
perhaps another month, but if the apphcation of fire-lieat be 
at all necessary, less trouble and expense for fuel will attend 
the process of ripening the shoots in September than in Octo- 
ber. Another consideration is that, as it were, you take up 
vegetation on the way and hurry her forward to the end 
her journey, instead of allowing her to lag behind, and then 
forcibly push her on against her inclination : a matter of the 
very first consideration and importance in every species of 
horticulture." 

Very slight fires will be sufficient to effect all that is ne- 
cessary at this time, but as the season advances, the tempe- 
rature may be gradually raised, so that the thermometer may 
stand mornings and evenings about 70", and at this point it 
should remain until the shoots be of a brownish color, and 
sufficiently hard or ripened as far towards their extremities, as 
it is calculated that they will be cut back to in their autumnal 
pruning. 

As the wood begins to ripen, both air and water must be 
gradually reduced in quantity until the latter be entirely dis- 
pensed with ; but this should be done by degiees, somewhat in 
the proportion in which it is wished that vegetation should stop. 
The waterings at the roots should be desisted in some time 
before that of the engine over the leaves, the latter of which 
will keep the plants less liable to the attacks of the red spider 
the following season, by destroying great part of its eggs upon 
the wood of the vines, and also upon the wood-work of the 
house. By November, the vines will be sufficiently ripened to 
be pruned for the ensuing season. 



801 



THE 

FLOWER GARDEN. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Many and various are the pleasures and advantages to be 
attained from the study of plants, and the cultivation of 
them in the flower garden. The first leads to the know- 
ledge of one of the most beautiful and instructive branches of 
science ; and the second furnishes an employment well cal- 
culated to lead the contemplative mind, in the language of 
Shakespeare, to — 

" Find tongues in trees, books in the i-unning brooks. 
Sermons in stones, and good in every thing." 

The cultivation of the flower garden must be considered as 
an amusement extremely well calculated to employ our leisure 
hours, being one of the most innocent, as well as one of the 
most salutary employments, that can excite the attention of 
the human mind. To be employed in contemplating the ope- 
rations of nature, and in viewing the harmony of her works 
through the kingdom of vegetables, must make far deeper 
and more lasting impressions on the mind than all the extra- 
vagant vociferations of the enthusiast. 

" Not a tree, 
A plant, a leaf, but contains 
A folio volume. — We may read, and read. 
And read again : and still find something new ; 
Something to please, and something to instruct 
Even in the humble weed." 

A taste for the cultivation of flowers has long occupied the 
attention of individuals in this country, and the introduction 

5 K 



Tin: PRACTICAL GAKDF.XKK. 



of that ta«?te mav l)c traced to a very remote date. It occu- 
pied the attention of our neighbours on the continent long 
before the state of this country admitted of such refinement ; 
and, in some parts, it is still carried to that extent, that the 
annual exportation of bulbs and roots forms no inconsider- 
able ai'ticle of commerce. 

This taste for flowers has been of considerable service to 
horticulture in general. The botanist and florist, although 
acting on two opposite principles of taste, become valuable 
; ssistants to the gardener : the one creates, as it were, an 
endless assemblage of beautiful flowers, by an art peculiar to 
himself, while the other imparts much valuable information to 
him relative to the economy of vegetation. 

By his exertions, either personally or pecuniary, our 
gardens are supplied with the vegetable productions of all 
climates. To him we are indebted for the humble inhabitant 
of the arctic regions, as well as the magnificent and lofty 
j)roductions of the torrid zone ; from the humble Linncea to 
the lofty Palm, witli many thousand intervening species and 
varieties of Nature's choicest gifts, with which our gardens 
Abound. 

Politically speaking, public pleasure-gardens must be consi- 
dered as of vast importance, being conducive both to health and 
pleasure. For which reason we find, in all great cities, that 
parks, squares, &c., are laid out for the use of those, whose 
circumstances or employments restrict them to a town life; 
nor is this confined to our own country, nor to modern times. 
The public })leasure-gardens on the continent are numerous, 
and from being considered })ublic property, are protected by 
the people with a zealous care ; every individual considering 
that, as he has a right to use them, he is also bound to protect 
and maintain them ; and, although they are open at all times, 
and to all classes, few instances occur of wanton or pre- 
meditated injury being done to them. 

The private flower garden, which is now the subject of our 
consideration, forms part of the pleasure-grounds, which latter 
are defined to be. all or most of the iirounck surrounding the 
dwelling of the proprietor contiguous to the house, and divid- 
ing the park or plantations from it, being often denominated 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



80o 



the lawn, shrubbery, &c. The extent of ground occupied tor 
this purpose is not easily determined, but it is always better 
to have too much than too little. The taste of the owner, 
the expense which he may be disposed to incur in pro- 
perly laying it out, and afterwards of keeping it in order, 
should be considered ; and the natural situation of the grounds 
and style of the house should not be overlooked. In con- 
sidering this part of the charge of the gardener, we will, for 
perspicuity, divide it into difierent heads, and consider them 
under the denomination of the Lawn, the Shrubbery, the 
Arboratum, and the Flower Garden. 



LAWN. 

The lawn is defined to be an open space of short grass- 
ground, immediately surrounding the mansion or family resi- 
dence, and when extended in the principal fronts, adds con- 
siderably to the neatness and grandeur of its appearance, by 
laying them open, and admitting a more extensive prospect 
from the principal windows. 

Where there is sufficient scope of ground, the lawn should 
be as, large as the situation will admit of, as, after its forma- 
tion and planting, the expense is not considerable of keeping- 
it up. The lawn should be bounded by elegant groupes of 
shrubbery, but not in continued lines, so as to give the ap- 
pearance of termination to any part. It should be, as it were, 
lost in the park, from which it can be divided either by ha-has, 
or neat and substantial wire-fences ; which, while they prevent 
the intrusion of catde, will not be visible as such from the 
mansion. Every thing having the appearance of boundary 
or fence should be carefully avoided, and the planting of the 
lawn so managed as to harmonize with the scenery that sur- 
rounds the whole. Care should be taken, in planting the 
lawn, not to shut out desirable objects, such as fine trees, 
picturesque views of plantations, cottages, villages, &c., if at 
sufficient distance. But such objects as are of a disagreeable 
nature, where they cannot be either removed or improved, 
should be planted out. In planting a new lawn, it is often 
necessary to plant thick, to produce a more immediate eflcct, 



804 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



as well as to provide against deaths, and consequently to in- 
troduce many trees and shrubs which are not intended to be 
permanent. In so doing, care should be taken to plant in 
situations sufficiently apart, and in proper positions, such trees 
as will ultimately become the most highly ornamental when 
they attain their full size ; for, from want of sufficient attention 
in this matter, we often see three or four valuable trees grouped 
toirether, so that to save one the remainder have to be de- 
stroyed, at the same time that there is probably not another 
of the same species in the grounds. A knowledge of the size 
and habit to which all trees will attain, is very necessary for 
those who have the disposal of them while young, and without 
this knowledge, all planting must be performed by blind chance. 
This seems to be too little attended to generally, and a know- 
ledge of arborescent vegetables is studied generally as little as 
if it did not form a part of the general knowledge of which a 
gardener should be possessed. 

The back grounds, or the parts of the lawn at the gi*eatest 
distance from the house, should be so planted as to harmonize 
with the scenery immediately behind them, and in general 
trees of the most lofty growth should be placed there. How- 
ever, to produce an immediate effect, it is also necessary to 
introduce trees of the first magnitude more in front, but those 
should be chosen which are of the most giaceful growth and 
of the more valuable kinds. Shrubs of tall growth, chiefly 
evergeen, and trees of the second class, should occupy the 
middle, and in front, those whose height does not exceed three 
or five feet. 

Upon the lawn, fine specimens of rare, beautiful, or in- 
teresting shrubs, and trees of humble growth, should be 
planted singly, such as Rhododendroti, Pcconia Montan, Yi/ccOf 
Rosa, Rhus, Philbjrea, Olece, Magnolia, Lonicera, Laurus, 
Jutiiperus, Ilex, Genista, Ep/ieckra, Arbutus, Erica, Cy- 
tissus, /Esculus, Sfc; and, in sheltered situations, orange- 
trees, myrtles, many species of New-Holland plants, of large 
size, and many other large specimens of green-house exotics, 
should be plunged out upon the lawn during the summer 
months, and taken under cover during winter, and their places 
filled with hardy shrubs from the reserve garden, where an 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



805 



assortment should always be kept of the most interesting, in 
a portable state, for this and similar purposes. 

SHRUBBERY. 

The shrubbery may be defined to be the link which con- 
nects the mansion and lawn to the flower garden, or to the 
other parts of a residence, and is most generally planted either 
for shelter or shade, although often as a screen to hide dis- 
agreeable objects, for which the plants which compose it are 
better suited than for forest or other trees. " The shrubbery," 
says Nicol, " is often a matter of utility as well as of orna- 
ment ; in which case it gives the highest satisfaction. When 
formed for the purpose of shutting out the offices or the 
kitchen garden from the view of the house ; for sheltering the 
latter, or the garden ; or for connecting the house with the 
garden and the orchard, the shrubbery becomes useful and 
interesting." 

" Sometimes a shrubbery is formed, merely for the purpose 
of growing rare shrubs and for obtaining agreeable walks. In 
this case, it is necessary to be at more pains, and to display 
a greater degree of taste in the laying of it out, than in the 
formation of the useful shrubbery. In the former case, a 
tasteful arrangement of the plants is a matter of less import- 
ance than the choice and disposition of kinds that will soonest 
afford shelter, and ultimately become thick screens." 

In planting shrubberies for screens to hide disagreeable ob- 
jects, evergreens should form the principal mass, as atibrding 
a permanent blind, and giving a cheerful appearance even in 
winter. A few deciduous shrubs, of the most showy sorts, may, 
however, be with propriety added, w hich will give relief to the 
more sombre appearance of the evergreens, particularly while 
the former are in flower ; but, from their nature of annually 
shedding their leaves, and consequently becoming thin in win- 
ter, they are not so well calculated for a permanent blind. 

In the disposal of the shrubs, the tallest should be planted 
farthest from the walk, or front side, and the lower in stature 
in front ; but if an immediate effect be desired, it is better to 
elevate the ground than to plant trees of loo great an age. 



80G 



THE rUACTICAL gakl)i:nek. 



It is also a matter of iiTi})ortance that they be planted thickly, 
as it is an easy task to thin them out when required. Little 
taste has generally been displayed in the formation of shrub- 
beries, as to the production of picturesque beauty ; they are 
planted too generally in the form of sloping banks, without the 
least natural beauty whatever, and although in this way they 
may answer the purpose of blinding out disagreeable objects, 
they become of themselves objects of little merit when seen 
even from their best side. 

Great attention should be paid in their planting, to give 
them a somewhat natural appearance, and not that of a sur- 
face as regular as if they were clipped with the garden shears. 
Straight lines should also be avoided as much as possible, 
and the margin of the shrubbery should be broken with deep 
indentures or sinuosities, and these should be neatly turfed 
over and kept mown. The walks which lead through this de- 
partment should not be to any great distance in a straight line, 
if it can be avoided, neither should they be too much twisted. 
There is something in a fine gentle sweep or curve so pleasing 
in a road or walk, that few are insensible of its beauty. The 
breadth of the walks should be regulated according to the 
length and scale of the place, as too narrow walks for prin- 
cipal ones have never a good effect; they should scarcely, 
under any circumstance, be less than five feet wide, and un- 
less for terrace-walks of great length, should not be more than 
eight ; if of greater breadth, they assume the appearance of a 
carriage-drive, and if narrower, they dwindle in appearance to 
a mere footpath. 

By combining the more distant parts of the gi'ounds with the 
lawn and house, by means of shrubberies, much may be done, 
if executed with judgment. Space does not always give the 
idea of grandeur, for a limited sphere is often better adapted 
to the display of ornament and beauty. By good manage- 
ment, a small strip of ground may be varied, by taking advan- 
tage of the inequality of the ground (if any), or if it be a level 
and monotonous spot, art can readily step forward and assist 
by raising banks, sinking the walks, and planting shrubs in 
thick masses, chiefly of evergreen species, and conducting the 
walks in the most circuitous manner, so as not to intersect 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



807 



each other but as httle as possible. However, care must be 
taken to give sufficient breadth of walk and also a margin of 
grass on the sides of unequal breadths, which will naturally 
assist in adding to the picturesque appearance of the w^hole. 
This may also be aided by forming the banks to be planted 
of unequal heights, which banks, in small places, need not 
occupy much surface at their base, so as to admit of as great 
a breadth of grass margin between them and the walks as pos- 
sible ; in some parts narrow, where it is deemed necessary 
either for variety or for the more completely concealing objects 
which should not be seen, at others broad, and disappearing, 
as it were, in natural glades in the distance. This riiargin of 
grass, where of sufficient breadth, should be planted with the 
finer species of ornamental trees and flowering shrubs, singly, 
or in groups of three or five together, which would not be 
seen to sufficient advantage if planted generally amongst the 
shrubs. 

Some attention to botanical arrangement might be paid in 
the distribution of the shrubs and ornamental trees, but this 
must not be carried to the extent likely to infringe upon pic- 
turesque beauty. However, such families as Pinus, Juni^ 
perns, Biixus, Laurus, &c., may be grouped with good effect ; 
and if judiciously done, will give a bolder effect to the whole 
than if they were planted promiscuously. Fine specimens of 
larger growing kinds, should be so i^laced as to give effect 
and relief to the thicker masses of more humble growth. In 
the back ground may be placed a few fruit-bearing trees, 
which will display their beauties in spring by their blossoms, 
and in autumn with their fruit. In such situations also should 
be planted the stronger growing species of Craiccgus, Pni- 
nits, &c. 

On leaving the mansion, the walks should be conducted 
through the lawn in a graceful and natural manner to the 
shrubbery, and should be as much hidden from the principal 
windows as possible. They should then be continued through 
the shrubbery, the most circuitous walks leading to interesting 
objects, so as to relieve the mind and remove the idea that 
they "lead to nothing;" fine specimens of trees, ruins, either 
natural or artificial, water, distant views of villages, churches, 



808 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



woods, cottages, or the like, will always be pleasing ; shorter 
walks should also be contrived on which to return (as most 
objects lose effect when seen over and over) as well as for a 
more convenient mode of reaching the more distant parts of 
the grounds. Neat resting-places should be placed in different 
parts, choosing the situation of some in shaded groves, others 
upon elevated spots, conunanding the finest views of the 
grounds or surrounding country. Much taste may be dis- 
played in the formation of such seats, from the polished temple 
of Flora, Venus, &c., to the rude roots of trees and misshapen 
fragments of rock or rude stone. Arbours of living trees of 
flexible habits, such as mountain-ash, willow, ash, &c., may be 
planted and formed into bowers, and covered over with creep- 
ing-plants, such as Clemalis, ivy, honeysuckle, &c. Moss- 
houses of various constructions ; root-houses ; Russian, Swed- 
ish, Lapland, Scotch, and Swiss cottages, should be disposed of 
in situations peculiarly adapted for them. Sometimes situations 
are naturally to be found adapted for the one or the other ; in 
such cases, the house should be chosen to suit the situation, 
and this will always be found to have the happiest effect. 
Where the situation has to be formed for either, much judg- 
ment and taste are required in the arrangement. This is not 
sufficiently attended to. Thus, a Russian cottage, composed of 
oak-timber trees, and the adjacent ground planted with laurel 
and other polished shrubs, natives of southern latitudes, and 
close-shaven grass lawns, is as preposterous as the chaste 
Grecian temple in a rocky dingle. The grounds should be 
chosen or arranged so as to persuade the observer that he 
is really in Russia, and the house should be composed of the 
same timber trees used in the formation of cottages in that 
country, and be of the same form and size. The internal 
construction and furniture should also come as near to reality 
as possible. Hermitages and caves are also interesting, when 
proper situations are chosen. In the former should be kept a 
small collection of books calculated for private study, and the 
furniture of this sequestered retreat should be exactly of that 
simple and useful nature as would be suitable to a recluse. 

Caves should be hewn out of the solid rock, or if artificially 
formed, should be cased over with rough stones, so as to give 



THE FLO^VER GARDEN. 809 

as little the appearance of art as possible ; the access should be 
rather rough and even difficult, and the entrance such that the 
supposed inmate might dispute the passage. The furniture 
should be of the most rude and simple form possible, such as 
a savage man might be supposed to use, or such as an outlaw 
would be glad to accommodate himself with. Nothing like 
dressed gi'ound should be seen from it, and no vestige of it 
should be seen until at the entrance. 

Rustic seats of various constructions, when properly situ- 
ated, are no less useful than interesting, even when considered 
merely as ornaments. The accompanying sketches may be 
adopted or improved. 




In grounds through which streams of water flow, bridges 
of various constructions should be placed, and here, as well 

5 L 



810 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



as in the formation of resting-places, much taste may be dis- 
played, from the neat Doric bridge of polished stone to the 
rude mountain-bridge of unhewn timber ; the one suited for 
the dressed lawn, and the other for the wilderness or dingle. 



ARBORATUM. 

The arboratum is a division of the pleasure-gi'ound dedicated 
to the cultivation of a collection of useful and ornamental trees. 
It is to be regretted that so few specimens are to be met with 
in this country of this extremely useful and interesting part of 
gardening. Such however is the case, and we know not of 
one complete collection in the country. The arboratum may 
be situated in any convenient part of the pleasure-ground, if 
large ; but if small, the distribution of the trees should be 
blended through the lawn, shrubbery, and flower-garden ; and, 
if planted with taste, will add much to the general beauty of 
the whole. In their arrangement, some attention should be 
paid to a particular mode of classification, so that at least all 
the species of one genus may be brought together. The 
fimilies which constitute the principal mass of this collection, 
are — 

Linnaean Names. English. No. of Species. 

Acer Maple Tweuty-one. 

Acacia Acacia One. 

iCsculus Horsc-Chcstnut Five. 

Ailanthus Ailanthus One. 

Alnus Alder Eleven, 

Amygdalus .... Almond Five. 

Araucaria Chili Pine One. 

Arbutus Strawberry-tree Two. 

Betula Birch Ten. 

Bignonia Tnimpet-flower One. 

Buxus Box-tree One. 

Castanea Chestnut Two. 

Catalpa Catalpa 

Carpinus Hornbeain Three. 

Celtis Nettle-tree One. 

Cercis Judas-txee Two. 

Comptonia Comptonia , , One. 

Comus Dogwood Four. 

Corjlus Nut-tree Five. 

Crataegus Thorn Twenty-one. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



811 



Linncean Names. English. No. of Specks. 

Cupressus Cypress Six. 

Cytisus Cytisus One. 

Diospyros Date Plum Two. 

Euonymus Spindle-tree Four. 

Fagus Beech Three. 

Fraxinus .... Ash Nine. 

Gleditschia Gleditschia One. 

Gymnocladus Gymnocladus One. 

Halesia Halesia , . . Two. 

Ilex Holly Three. 

Juglans Walnut r . . • Fourteen. 

Juniperus Juniper Ten. 

Koelreuteria Koelreuteria One. 

Laurus Laurel Six. 

Liquidaxnbar Liquid-amber Two. 

Liriodendron Tulip-tree Two. 

Magnolia Magnolia Nine. 

Mespilus Mespilus Thirteen. 

Morus . Mulberry Nine. 

Nissa Nissa Four. 

Pinus Pine Twenty-seven. 

Platanus Plane-tree Four. 

Populus Poplar Seventeen. 

Prunus Plum Fifteen. 

Pyrus Pear Sixteen. 

Quercus Oak Fifty-four. 

Robinia Robinia Nine. 

Salisburia Maiden-hair-tree One. 

Salex Willow Thirty. 

Sambucus Elder Three. 

Taxus Yew Two. 

Tilia Lime-tree Five. 

Ulmus Elm Sixteen. 



Of these families, that of Quercus, the Oak, may be con- 
sidered the most valuable. To the common oak, Quercus 
robur, we are indebted for the materials which form the bul- 
warks of our national safety, and glory as a nation. It has 
been noticed at a very early period, and is elegantly described 
by the majority of the ancient poets. 

This valuable tree attains a greater size than any other ve- 
getable production indigenous to this country. 

The Quercus sessili/lora, of English botany, has been more 
abundant with us formerly than at present ; the superior qua- 



812 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



lity of its timber may have been the cause of its almost extir- 
pation. Few trees of any considerable size are now to be met 
with compared with the Qut reus robur. The roof of West- 
minster-Hall, long supposed to have been of chestnut, is of this 
timber, and has stood undecayed for ages, and is supposed 
to have been brought from Ireland. 

The evergreen oak, Q. ilexy and its varieties, add con- 
siderably to the beauty and elegance of our shrubberies and 
pleasure-grounds. 

The Cork Oak, Q. suber, besides being an ornamental 
tree on our lawns, is of much real utility ; the exterior bark 
is imported by us from the south of Europe, to be manufac- 
tured into corks and other useful purposes. The bark of the 
cork-tree, as well as the acorn, is of some use in medicine, 
being botii reputed astringents. The Spaniards burn the bark 
to make that kind of light black which painters call Spanish 
black. The Egyptians made coffins of cork, which being 
lined with a resinous substance, preserved dead bodies un- 
corrupted. The Spaniards often line the walls of their houfies 
with it, which renders them warm, and corrects the moisture 
of tlie air. 

The Turkey Oak, Q. cerris, and its varieties, is now 
found to be an extremely useful timber tree, and in many si- 
tuations would be more profitable, if planted, than those of 
our own country. 

Next to the oak family, in point of general utility, may be 
ranked the pine, or fir. Of this family, few arrive in this 
country of a size to be of general utility, excepting the Scotch 
Pinus sylvcstris and larch P. larix ; however, the timber of 
several other species are imported by us both from America 
and the north of Europe, which are well known for their du- 
rability and usefulness in building: some of the Norway 
houses, built of entire trees of the red fir or pine, are sup- 
posed to have stood upwards of four hundred years. In 
Guldbransdale, the house is said to be still standing in which 
King Olaf lodged five nights above seven hundred years ago. 
As ornaments to the park, the lawn, and pleasure-ground, 
the whole of this family become exceedingly interesting. Of 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



813 



these, the P. clanhrassiliana ; P. lanceolata ; P. pinastsr ; 
P. longifolia^ although a native of the East Indies; P. csmhra^ 
P. pichta, and P. adunca, are highly interesting. 

Nearly allied to this family are the magnificent family of 
Araucaria, the Chili pine ; A. imbricaia, is found to be suf- 
ficiently hardy to stand out in favorable situations. It is, 
however, still rare. Should it become more common, no tree 
with which we are acquainted would be a greater ornament to 
our arboratums. 

The Chestnut family afford us trees very ornamental to 
our parks and lawns ; and the firuit of the common chestnut, 
Castanea vesca, is used in our deserts. It attains a great 
size, and is a valuable timber-tree. 

The Beech is also an ornament to our parks and pleasure- 
grounds. The variety with dark purple leaves, produces a 
good effect in garden scenery ; it was originally discovered in 
one of the German forests, and is now generally met with in 
our pleasure-gi'ounds. It is botanically considered only a va- 
riety of the common beech, Fagiis S7jlvatica, It may be 
mentioned, as an additional illustration of the importance of 
this family, that the seeds of the F. sylvatica, when freed 
from the husk or outer envelope, aflford by pressure one-sixth 
part of a fixed oil of excellent quality ; and considered, 
when properly managed, to be equal to that of olives. This 
oil is prepared in great quantities in Germany and the north 
of France, from seeds obtained from the forests of Crecy and 
Compeigne. 

The Poplar family afford us a greater variety of beautiful 
foliage than that of almost any other tribe ; that of Populus 
trepida and P. tremula possess a singular motion of their leaves, 
which has not been satisfactorily accounted for. The fragrance 
of P. balsamifera is very agreeable, and consequently it often 
finds a place in our shrubberies. It seems a neglected genus 
that merits more general cultivation. It is of very rapid 
growth, and flourishes in situations where few other timber- 
trees would thrive. Several of the species also promise to 
become useful for building purposes. 

The Birch family are peculiarly interesting ; the white - 
birch, Bctula alba, and its varieties, assuming very graceful 



Sli THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 

habits of growth ; that of the weeping variety, B. alba var, 
pendula, is much cultivated. In some places it is almost na- 
turally as abundant as the varieties with upright branches. 

The Alder is a neglected family ; few species being gene- 
rally met with in cultivation. 

The Nut-tree, Cori/lus, although properly belonging to 
the orchard or fruit-garden, should nevertheless be always 
planted in a collection of trees. Their habit of growth, and 
their growing in the shade, render them useful in this depart- 
ment, as underwood in the arboratum, where it is wished to 
blend picturesque beauty with scientific arrangement. 

Salisburia. — Of this genus we have but one species, 
S adianti/olia, a native of Japan. With us, in favorable situ- 
ations, it becomes a tree of the third class, and is extremely 
interesting; the foliage being so singularly divided. Fine 
specimens of this tree are to be seen in the grounds of the 
Mile-End nursery. 

The Plane-tree attains a considerable size with us, and 
is very ornamental. The Platanus orientalis and P. occi- 
dentaUs are described as growing to an amazing size ; the 
latter is a native of America, where it has been known to at- 
tain the circumference of forty feet at five feet from the ground ; 
and T. Andre Michaux measured one of still greater dimen- 
sions, and in full growth. These trees are, from their rapid 
growth and fine general outline, highly ornamental ; but they 
require a good soil, and one that is neither too thin nor too 
dry. 

The Maple family are a very ornamental tribe of trees. The 
Acer campestre, common maple, has long been valued, on ac- 
count of its timber and quick growth. The sycamore, A. 
psei/do-platatiNs, is also a magnificent tree of the first class ; 
the wood of which is both beautiful and useful. The sugar 
maple, A. sacc/tarhium, is an extremely hardy tree, and is 
found to prosper in Canada under the most rigorous cold, in 
lat. 48^, nearly corresponding in temperature to lat. 67° in 
the north of Europe. The juice is also converted into excel- 
lent vinegar, in the usual manner practised by vinegar manu- 
facturers. Sugar is also obtained from the juice in consider- 
able quantities (hence the name). Some years ago, the Prince 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



815 



of Augsburg planted above a million of maple-trees of one of 
the European species, for the express purpose of manufactur- 
ing sugar for home consumption. 

The Ash family, Fraxinus, is both useful and ornamental. 
The common ash, F. excelsior, attains a large size in this 
country, and has long been in demand by the coach-builder 
and the makers of agricultural implements. Evelyn, in his 
Sylva, states, that trees of this species, of forty years growth, 
from seed, sold for thirty pounds each; an extraordinary 
price for timber in those days : and that a gentleman had a 
plantation of this tree, of his own planting, which was valued 
at fifty thousand pounds. Of this species there are five cu- 
rious varieties to be met with in collections. Of these, the 
F. excelsior var,, argentia, and var. pefidula, are great or- 
naments to the lawn or shrubbery, and the yellow-barked, or 
golden F. aurea, is not only while in leaf, but also when 
without leaves, an interesting tree. 

The F. ornuSy or manna ash, produces the medicinal manna, 
and is also an ornamental tree. In the country to the east- 
ward of the Missisipi, including Canada and the United States, 
the younger Michaux supposes not less than thirty species of 
this valuable tree to exist ; all of which have never been at 
any period in this country. Since the beginning of this century, 
no less than fourteen species have been introduced from North 
America alone ; still it is surprising that not above four or five 
species are in general cultivation, even when considered as 
ornamental trees only. The F. Americana is no less interest- 
ing from the magnificence of its growth than for the beauty of 
its foliage : it abounds from the northward of Hudson River to 
the southern limits of Jersey and Pennsylvania, and attains 
the height of eighty feet. It also endui'ea the severest cold 
of Nova-Scotia and Canada without any diminution of size ; 
and where planted in this country bids fair to prosper to the 
utmost of our expectations. 

The tEsculus family are exceedingly ornamental, and are 
more generally met with in pleasure-grounds than any other fa- 
mily of arborescent plants. The beauty of their flowers, as well 
as the elegant palmat form of their foliage, have led to their 
being more generally admitted into the pleasure-ground than 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



almost any other tribe of trees taken collectively. From the 
many venerable specimens of hippocaslanum^ the com- 
mon horse-chestnut, which are to be met with surrounding 
the mansions of the great, seem to prove the attachment which 
our ancestors entertained for this tree, and also that some care 
had been paid to their early cultivation, as they are natives 
of the north of Asia, and introduced here in 1629. The 
beauty of the flowers, and elegant form of this tree, and not 
the value of its timber, render it an object of interest. This 
tree is supposed to have been brought into Europe by way of 
Vienna, from thence into Italy, and then into France and 
England ; but Langley is of opinion that it was brought into 
England fi*om the Levant. 

The y^J. pavla^ Jlava, 2^(ff't' {flora, yE. discolor y 
and hybrida, lately and very justly formed into a separate 
genus, under the denomination of Pavia, are of humble growth 
compared with those allied to the /E. hippocastanum ; they 
are nevertheless exceedingly ornamental, planted either on 
the lawn or in the fronts of shrubberies. 

The Lime family, or Linden-tree, Tilia jjlatf/phi/Ha, T. 
curopea, of English botany, are amongst the most elegant 
ornamental trees, and attain a large size. When planted suf- 
ficiently distant from other trees, they often assume a head 
perfectly conical. Our ancestors seem to have chosen them 
for planting avenues, when tliat style of planting was in vogue. 
Evelyn was so partial to the lime, probably from its supposed 
medicinal properties, that he purposed planting one before 
every door in all the broad streets of London. 

The Walnut family, Jungians, are both ornamental and 
useful as a timber-tree, and the fruit adds to the variety of our 
deserts. They are natives of America. The J. regia com- 
mon walnut is, however, indigenous to Persia, whence it was 
brought into this country. It is said that trees of this species, 
which have their fruit beaten off instead of being gathered, 
are more fruitful ; and, agreeably to this idea, the Italians 
beat or thrash their trees with poles full of nails or stubs of 
iron, on purpose to lacerate the bark. 

The Elm family. — In point of utility, few trees can surpass 
our native common elm, Ulmus campcstris (of English 



THE FLOWER rrAllDEN. 



817 



botany,) and its varieties, as a timber-tree ; and many of tlie 
species are also extremely interesting for their graceful habiti 
and diversity of foliage. The Hort. Soc. seems, from its col- 
lection of this genus, to pave the way for their more general 
cultivation. The various species may be propagated by being 
grafted upon the Dutcli or English sorts. 

The Date Plum, Diospyros Lotus and D. virgimana : 
the former a native of the south of Europe, and the latter of 
America ; two interesting species. From the bruised fruit of 
the latter, cakes are formed, which are dried in an oven, and 
warm water being added to tliem, produce a liquor which, 
when fermented, is used as beer. With us, the fruit is not 
likely ever to arrive at any degree of perfection, but the beauty 
of the foliage is sufficiently interesting to deserve a place iu 
our shrubberies or upon our lawns. 

The Hornbeam family. — The common hornbeam, C«/- 
pinus Betulus, attains the size of a tree of the first class when 
raised from seed, but unfortunately this tree, like too many 
of our best ornamental trees, are propagated from layers ; by 
which mode of propagation, they are found to succeed at al- 
most any period of the year. The consequence is, that so 
few trees of this species are to be met with of a full size ; a 
stinted progeny being the reward of a mode of propagation so 
unnatural. 

Almond family.— Of these, the common almond, Amyg- 
dalns commtmis, is well known for the beauty of its blossoms 
in spring ; of this species we possess several varieties. The 
A. communis is supposed to have been introduced from Africa 
into Italy, and thence into this country; and although a fruit- 
bearing tree, still with us it cannot be considered generally as 
being valued for that property, as for the beauty of its blossom. 
It attains the size of a tree of the fourth class, and produces 
ripe fruit in favorable situations. 

The Tulip-tree, Liriodendron tulipifera, attains with us 
the size of a large and lofty tree, and is well suited for the 
lawn or arboratum ; the beauty of its foliage, together with 
its large white flowers, render it altogether one of the most 
interesting of our large growing trees for garden scenery. In 

5i{ 



818 



TIIi: PRACIU AL GARD! NFR. 



America it attains the size of a tree of the first class, often 
growing to the height of forty or fifty feet of trunk, and thirty 
feet in circumference, and is considered a valuable timber. 
Canoes are formed of the hollowed trunks. The leaves grow 
irregularly on the branches on very long foot- stalks, and are 
of a peculiar structure, being composed of three lobes, the 
centre one of which is much shortened, and appears as if cut 
off and hollowed in the middle. The magnificent large tulip- 
like flowers are produced with us in July, at the extremity of 
the branches. 

Plum family. — Of this family, with us the Prunus j^adtis 
sometimes attains the size of a large tree, but most generally 
assumes the habit of a shrub of the largest size. Pennant 
mentions seeing one in the gardens of the Duke of Quecnsbury 
seven feet and a half in circumference. The whole genus is 
exceedingly interesting, from the cultivated plum of the highest 
flavor to the insipid sloe, P. sj)i?iosa. All of this genus de- 
serve situations in our pleasure-gardens, and are much valued, 
on account of the fragi-ance of some and the beauty of all their 
blossoms. The cultivated plum, P. domestica, with training, 
attains the size of a tree of the third class, and is much prized 
by the cabinet-maker. 

The Cherry family are nearly related to the latter in many 
respects ; but, as forest trees, the cherry is more valuable, 
although the fruit of the uncultivated kinds are less exten- 
sively useful. Two of our native cherries are valuable as timber- 
trees ; the black cherry, or Guigne of the Scotch, Prunus 
cerasus, and the red cherry, P, avium; both species attain 
the size of trees of the second class, and are ornamental in 
our woods in spring, from the beauty and profusion of their 
blossom ; in summer, their fruit is both grateful and high- 
flavored ; and in autumn, the foliage early takes beautiful tinges 
of red, which render them great favorites of the artist. The 
gum which oozes from P. cerasus, is said by Ilasselquist to 
be very nutritious ; he asserts that, during a siege of two 
months, above a hundred men were kept alive by no other 
sustenance than a small piece of this gum, which they each 
suflered to dissolve gradually in his mouth. The tiniber of 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



819 



this tree is of great value, and for many purposes equal to 
mahogany. 

Laburnum family, Cytisus lahurmnn. Of this species 
there are supposed to be two varieties ; that which is called 
Scotch laburnum is most prized, as attaining a greater size, 
as well of timber as in the foliage and flowers. As an orna- 
mental tree, on the lawn or in the skirts of plantations, it 
stands unrivalled, and is generally admired both for its large 
trifoliated leaves and elegant bunches of yellow flowers ; 
often exceeding a foot in length. As a timber-tree it is also 
valuable, and is found to attain a large size in soils of the 
poorest description. It is to be regretted that too little atten- 
tion has hitherto been paid to the cultivation of it as a timber- 
tree. 

RoBiNiA family. — Of this family, the Robinia j^seudo-acac/af 
or false acacia, is inferior neither in point of beauty as an or- 
namental tree upon our lawns, nor as a timber-tree of the 
second or third class, to any tree cultivated. Its beautifully 
pinnated foliage, and elegant white blossom, render it worthy 
of being extensively cultivated as an ornamental tree, and its 
great durability renders it equally worthy of cultivation as a 
timber-tree. It is much esteemed in America for its dura- 
bility, and is always used where timber of that nature is re- 
quired. The other species of this beautiful genus are equally 
interesting as ornamental trees, either on the lawn or in the 
shrubbery. 

Mulberry family. Of this family, the Moms Nigra, the 
common black mulberry, although considered as a fruit-bearing 
tree of great value, is not undeservedly often planted on the 
lawn, and probably it is the best situation for it. It has been 
long cultivated in this country, and appears to be a tree of 
great longevity. As a timber-tree it has no pretensions, as 
being of slow growth, and attaining only the size of a tree of 
the third or fourth class. The M. rubra attains the size of 
a large tree, often seventy feet in height, and of a proportion- 
able diameter, in Virginia and Pennsylvania, and probably 
might be with advantage planted in our most sheltered woods 
as a timber-tree ; on our lawns it cannot fail of being admired, 
as well as its associate the M» alba. 



820 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Few evergreens with us attain the size of timber-trees, those 
of the genera Quercus and Pinus excepted. For a Hst of the 
principal of them, with their heights, &c., see the Systematic 
Catalogues. 

FLOWER GARDEN. 

Almost all writers on this subject agree in placing the 
flower garden near the house, that it may be readily had ac- 
cess to at all seasons. In small places, or cottage or villa 
residences, this may be desirable ; but in places of consider- 
able extent, and particularly where the mansion is large, we 
would propose to have the. flower garden at some reasonable 
distance from it, and to be reached by a sufficiently broad 
and dry gravel-walk, extending through some part of the lawn 
and shrubbery. In all cases, unless in small villas or cottage 
residences, the flower garden should be entirely concealed 
from the windows of the house, and be placed, if circum- 
stances will admit of it, in the shrubbery. Situations are, 
however, often to be found naturally calculated for the site 
of the flower garden; and these situations should, in most 
cases, direct the designer as to style, form, and extent. Na- 
tural situations never should be lost sight of in selecting a 
station for the flower garden. The surrounding scenery, both 
as regards shelter and picturesque beauty, will, in many cases, 
be found better and more interesting when almost naturally 
formed than when artificially planted. Irregularity of surface 
is often desirable in the choice of a situation for a flower 
garden, and many attempts have been made to attain this ar- 
tificially. Of this sort of art was Pope's garden at Twick- 
enham ; and Lord Harcourt's, at Xuneham, was upon the 
same principle ; both much admired, and both die production 
of poets : the latter being laid out by Mason, and the former 
by its owner. 

Where the proprietor has a taste for flowers, and the situ- 
ation of sufficient extent, it will be found, in most cases, to 
have the happiest eftect to have several small flower gardens 
in preference to one large one. Abercrombie justly observes, 
that to cover twenty acres with mere flowering plants, would 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



821 



be puerile and ridiculous, as it would exceed the moderation 
with which nature scatters her ornaments. Indeed, flower 
gardens of such extent partake more of the nature of the 
pleasure-grounds, and admit of a great portion of the sur- 
face being covered with grass, as well as the borders being 
planted with shrubs and trees of the less lofty species ; 
without which, the whole would have a naked and mean ap- 
pearance. Flower gardens upon a moderate scale, rather 
small than otherwise, admit of their being kept with greater 
neatness, and will therefore be the more pleasing ; and if pro- 
perly disposed through the pleasure-ground, cannot fail of 
adding much to its interest. Thus a garden might very pro- 
perly be denominated the winter garden, planted chiefly with 
evergreens ; however sombre their appearance might be in 
summer, when all around is gay, still in winter it would give 
rise to pleasing associations in beholding them retain their 
verdure and clothing at a season when the other flower gardens 
are naked and bare. 

Another might very properly be denominated the American 
flower garden, and should be situated in rather a damp situ- 
ation, or rather one that could be rendered so during the heat 
of summer by partial irrigation. Such a garden may be com- 
plete of its kind, having not only herbaceous plants of great 
beauty, but also shrubs, deciduous and evergreen, as well as 
many highly ornamental trees. The soil of which it should 
be* composed, should be of the sort called peat or bog-mould ; 
and being of a very dark color, will form a contrast with the 
brilliant flowers of which American plants are eminently pos- 
sessed. 

Another might be styled the Botanic flower garden, where 
a collection of hardy plants might be cultivated to a gi'eat 
extent and variety, and planted according to some arrange- 
ment, either natural or artiHcial. The arrangements generally 
adopted is either that of the sexual or Linnaean system, which 
is strictly artificial, and therefore less fit for planting a garden 
by, as it brings together plants that have few or no relations 
to each other, and destroys that harmony which is so gratify- 
ing in viewing natural families. The arrangement of Jussieu 
has much the best eftect in garden scenery, as well as corres- 



822 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



ponding better with their cultivation. For private botanic 
gardens, where the collection is not completed at its formation, 
but yearly addiMons made to it, the most convenient method 
of disposal is by grouping upon turf ; and as the plants of any 
class increase, tlie beds can be enlarged in proportion, by 
appropriating part of that which was turf into border for them. 
These groups should be of the most irregular forms possible. 
A walk of gravel should be so contrived as to make a tour of 
all the groups, and that of a continued scroll, as in the ac- 
companying sketch, may be the most convenient. In this sketch 
we have adopted the sexual system of arrangement, and have 
given a group or clump for each of the twenty-four classes, 
(numbered 1 to 24,) not including aquatic plants, or such as are 
not conveniently cultivated in the borders. Aquatic, bog, and 
Alpine plants, particularly such of the latter as are liable to 
perish in winter, or be overlooked in consequence of their 
minute growth, should be cultivated in groups by themselves. 

25, 25, rock-work, where such Alpine plants may be cul- 
tivated as would be liable to be lost or overlooked if in the 
general arrangement. 

26, 26, should be rendered capable of retaining water suf- 
ficient for the cultivation of such as are natives of bogs or 
watery places. 

27, a border prepared for a collection of plants with va- 
riegated leaves, or such as degenerate into singular varieties 
or monstrosities. 

28, 29, CO, and 31, borders for dahlias, carnations, pinks, 
bulbs, and similar showy flower garden plants, and in summer 
to be enriched with scarlet geraniums, and other interesting 
green-house plants. 

Flower gardens, laid out according to systematic arrange- 
ment, will only be appreciated by those who are attached to 
that delightful study, or by such as pride themselves in the 
number of species that they possess. Few attempts have been 
made in this country of blending botanical arrangement with 
picturesque beauty in our flower gardens ; that of the celebrated 
Dr. Darwin was probably the most complete. The numerous 
species of plants which necessarily enter into a botanical ar- 
rangement, although extremely interesting to the lover of that 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 82S 

science, are yet overlooked by the majority of persons, and 
by many are considered as mere weeds ; and while such ideas 




THE ru AC I K'AL GARDENER. 



exist we cannot expect tluit this sort of flower garden will be- 
coine by any means general. 

The Chongeahlc Flower Garden To this style of garden- 
ing the Chinese arc extremely partial, and they are well 
skilled in it. It is by no means an unusual circumstance for 
a mandarin to have the whole of his flower garden completely 
changed in the course of one night, not only in the arrange- 
ment of the plants, but also in that of the beds or compart- 
ments. For this purpose, the plants are all portable, and 
are cultivated in a reserve-garden in pots ; and when any in- 
dividual plant or genus of plants decays or goes out of flower, 
others are immediately substituted for them ; and when the 
whole are to be changed, they are removed to the reserve- 
garden, where there is always a stock kept up sufficient to 
replant the whole. Gardens of this description are described 
by Sir W. Chambers in his work on oriental gardening. The 
Chinese, he observes, are particular in the arrangement of 
their flower gardens ; they do not scatter their flowers indis- 
criminately about their borders, but dispose of them with great 
circumspection along the skirts of the plantation, or other 
places where flowers are to be introduced. They reject all 
that are of a straggling growth, of harsh colors, and poor 
foliage ; choosing such only as are of som.e duration, which 
grow either large or in clusters, of beautiful forms, well- 
leaved, and of tints that harmonize with the greens that sur- 
round them. They avoid all sudden transitions, both with 
regard to dimension and color, rising gradually from the 
smallest flowers to the hollyhocks, poeonies, sun-flowers, car- 
nation poppies, and others of the boldest growth ; and varying 
their tints by easy gi'adations from white, straw-color, purple, 
and incarnate, to the deepest blues, crimsons, and scarlets. 
They fiequently blend several roots together whose leaves and 
flowers unite, and compose one rich harmonious mass, such 
as the white and purple candy-tuft, larkspurs, and piallows 
of various colors ; double poppies, lupins, primroses, pinks, 
and carnations, with many more of which the forms and colors 
accord with each other ; and the same method they use with 
flowering- shrubs, blending white, red, and variegated roses 
together ; purple and white lilacs, yellow and white jessamine, 



THE FLOUER GARDEN. 



825 



altheas of various sorts, and as many others as they can with 
any propriety unite. By these mixtures, they increase con- 
siderably the variety and beauty of their compositions. In 
their large plantations, the flowers generally grow in the na- 
tural ground ; but in flower gardens, and all other parts that 
are highly kept, they are in pots buried in the ground, which, 
as fast as the bloom goes off, are removed, and others are 
brought to supply their places ; so that there is a constant 
succession for almost every month in the year, and the flowers 
are never seen but in the height of their beauty. 

Something of the same kind is practised in France during 
the sunnner, and some few attempts have been made in this 
country to effect the same purpose. With some conspicuous 
families of flower-garden plants, it ought to be more attended 
to; such, for instance, as Da/ilia^ C/irt/sani/iimum, Lobetia, 
Pelargonium, Helianthus, Aster, Heliotropiuin, Salvia Splen- 
dens, Senecio elegans, var, plerio rubra, and var. pleno alba, 
and many others ; which, if grown in large pots, and brought 
into the flower garden when coming into flower, in place of 
others which may be on the decline, would keep it always 
gay, without being, as it were, encumbered with the plants 
while in a state of growth or decay. 

Upon a small scale, much might be done in this manner 
with good effect ; but upon a scale of such magnitude as we 
find many of our English flower gardens, it would be next to 
impossible to produce any good effect in them. 

The Mixed Flower Garden, of which the accompanying 
sketch may be considered an example, is that generally 
aimed at by gardeners, and consequently that which is most 
commonly met with. There plants, shrubs, trees of all de- 
nominations, are admitted too often in heterogeneous masses, 
without the least attention being paid to their distribution as 
far as regards the heights which they bear to one another ; 
their colors, time of flowering, or the effects that they ulti- 
mately or immediately have in landscape. Many err in plant- 
ing this sort of garden, by introducing by far too many species, 
and those often are ill selected. To produce a brilliant and 
constant bloom of flower, is the object of this garden, and 
that can be effected by a limited number of species, if properly 

5 N 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



827 



number selected equally from the different colours of such 
plants as are known to flower from February to October, are 
what ought to demand the exclusive attention of those who would 
plant a flower garden of this sort. Rarity and variety should 
not be condemned, but it is always better to have such con- 
fined to the botanical flower garden, or in a border either 
alphabetically or classically arranged ; here they will be more 
immediately under the eye of the cultivator, and less liable to 
be destroyed or lost. Indeed, in every garden where there is 
any thing like a collection of plants, some sort of arrangement 
should be adopted, both as a nursery and an index to point 
out the exact species of which the collection consists, as well 
as what species are lost. It is observed by an intelligent 
writer upon this subject, that flower gardens have been on the 
decline in this country for the last half century ; and the cause 
assigned is, that the great influx of new plants, during that 
period, has induced gardeners to be more solicitous about rare 
and new plants than well-disposed colors and quantity. 

Little attention has been practically paid to the disposal of 
flowers, so as to have the advantage of producing the best 
possible effect. The authoress of the Florist's Manual, a little 
work which ought to be in the possession of every young gar- 
dener, presents some very just observations upon this subject. 
** The fashionable novice," she observes, who has stored her 
borders from the catalogue of some celebrated name, with 
variety of rare species ; who has procured innumerable rose- 
trees, chiefly consisting of old and common sorts, brought into 
notice by the new nomenclature ; who has set apart a portion 
of her ground for American plants, and duly placed them in 
bog-soil, with their names painted on large-headed pegs, be- 
comes disappointed, when, instead of the brilliant glow of her 
more humble neighbour's parterre , she finds her own distin- 
guished only by paucity of color and fruitless expenditure. 
Variety of species, bog-plants, and largely-lettered pegs, are 
all good in their way, but ihey will not produce a gay flower 
garden ; and the simple cause of the general fliilure, in this 
particular, is the solicitude which at present prevails for rarity 
and variety, in preference to well-blended quantity ; as, without 
ihe freouent repetition of the same plant, it will be in vain to 



828 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



attempt a brilliant flower garden, as the art of procuring 
it consists in the judicious mixture of every common color. 
Hence, the foundation thus laid, the solicitude of tliose who 
wish to complete the superstructure, must not be for rare spe- 
cies, but for new colour, so that the commonest primula which 
presents a fresh shade of red, blue or yellow, &c., ought to 
be esteemed more valuable than the most rare American plant, 
which does not bring a single advantage. In the formation of 
(hat assemblage of flowers, which may be distinguished by the 
term of the mingled flower garden, it is essential that the se- 
parate parts should in their appearance constitute a whole; 
and this appearance is not incompatible with any form in which 
the ground may be thrown, if attention be given to the manner 
of planting. In some gardens, this appearance of a whole is 
entirely destroyed by the injudicious taste of setting apart dis- 
tinct borders for pinks, hepeticas, primulas^ or any other 
flivorite kind of flowers ; also for different species of bulbs, 
as anemones, ranunculuses, hyacinths, See. : these distinct 
borders, though beautiful in themselves, break that whole, 
which should always be presented to the eye by the mingled 
flower garden, as single beds, containing one species, only 
form a blank before that species produces its flowers, and 
a mass of decaying leaves when the glow of their petals is 
no more. The reverse of this mode of planting is essential 
to the perfection of the mingled flower garden, in each border 
of which there should be at least two of every species, but 
the precise number must be regulated by the force of color 
displayed by the plant, and the size and the relative position 
of the borders." 

The disposal of the margin, or surrounding plantations, 
also require much judgment and taste, so that the whole may 
harmonize with the arrangements within ; and while they af- 
ford sufficient shelter, they should not be crowded nor yet 
have a hedge-like appearance. This plantation, if not natur- 
ally existing, must be planted; and probably, if partly sur- 
rounded naturally, will require some artificial assistance, either 
to render the shelter sufhcient or to improve its appearance. 
In such cases, the most ornamental trees and shrubs should 
be placed in front, and in the most conspicuous places ; and if 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



829 



the extent of tlie flower garden be great, some of the most 
curious and interesting may be introduced upon the grass, or 
in the larger of the clumps or groups ; and if properly placed, 
will have a good effect. Attention should also be paid here 
to dispose of the surrounding trees and shrubs so as to pro- 
duce a good effect in the coloring even of the foliage, and 
particularly the habit of the trees. To produce a pleasing ef- 
fect in planting, the trees should be planted with judgment 
and with a painter's eye. 

The Alpine or Rock Garden. — Gardeners generally deno- 
minate all plants Alpines, that are of very humble growth, 
and that require some protection during winter, whether they 
be really natives of Alpine situations or not. To these they 
add many species that are of difficult cultivation. In consi- 
dering, therefore, the Alpine or rock garden, we will suppose 
it to contain all such plants which, from their minute size, 
rarity, or difficulty of propagation or cultivation, are excluded 
from the other flower gardens, and look upon it as a garden 
of vegetable curiosities rather than as one in imitation of 
rocks and mountains, at which man at the best is but a puny 
imitator. 

In the Alpine garden, a small pond or large cistern should 
be made for those aquatic plants which are curious or minute, 
such for instance as Lobelia Dortmanna, Subularia, C/iaraSy 
Pilularia, and Isoctes, &c. ; and if the proprietor be of a 
botanical turn of mind, he may introduce as many species of 
Conferva and Bissus as he can cultivate. 

A small bog should also be made for the cultivation of 
many plants, extremely beautiful in themselves, but which 
require a degree of humidity at their roots not convenient to 
be applied by any other means ; here all the curious species 
of Eriopliorum, Phignicula, Drosera, &c. may be cultivated. 

This beautiful and truly interesting assemblage of plants 
requires to be viewed closely before their real beauties are dis- 
covered, and therefore the nearer they are brought to the eye 
of the observer, the more readily their beauties are seen. 
Plants of such humble growth, and liable to so many acci- 
dents, are not in many cases fitted for the borders of the 



830 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



flower garden, neither are they found to succeed well if 
planted out. 

It is seldom attempted to give a natural effect in laying out 
rock-works, the design of them being generally merely for the 
better cultivation of plants which grow naturally upon elevated 
situations, and are liable to be destroyed when mingled with 
the larger and more hardy species in the flower borders. In 
choosing the situation for a rock or Alpine garden, it is important 
that it be exposed to a free circulation of air, and contain- 
ing, either naturally or artificially, portions fully exposed to 
the sun, as well as others completely shaded, and if a small 
rill of clear water can be brought through it, it will add to 
its advantages. The plants entering into this sort of garden, 
depend for support more upon a pure air than upon richness 
or depth of soil. Sometimes situations naturally occur, where 
objects or situations in themselves uninteresting and even 
offensive, may with little trouble be brought to become the 
reverse ; such, for instance, as an old stone-quarry, chalk-pit, 
&c. : these might be converted into rock gardens of more than 
common interest. Where an imitation at natural rocks is not 
attempted (and this we would not recommend unless natural 
circumstances are very favorable, and great taste displayed in 
the erection,) a rock or Alpine garden may be made very 
pleasing by merely elevating the borders to a convenient height, 
and covering them with rude stones, blocks of over-burnt 
bricks, flints. Sec, interspersed with a few specimens of petri- 
factions, rock crystals, spars, &c., or any curious or interesting 
specimens of mineral substances that may be most conveniently 
procured, between which the most curious and rare Alpine 
.plants will succeed, if planted in a stratum of soil congenial 
to their several natures. In planting rock-plants, some atten- 
tion ought to be paid to the disposing of them, so that such as 
Azalia procumbens, Dryas octopelala, and all the Helian- 
themxnn family should be as much exposed to the sun as pos- 
sible ; while all plants belonging to Cryptogamia, such as 
ferns, mosses, &c., should be placed in the shade. The soil 
in which most Alpine plants will succeed is generally of the 
most primitive nature, such as heath or peat-mould, sand, or 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



831 



decomposed stone, eitlier micatious or calcareous. A soil coin- 
posed of iialf maiden light sandy loam, and half heath or peat 
earth, will be found to suit nine-tenths of the plants entering 
into this species of garden. Some few require calcareous 
matter to grow them in perfection, either chalk or fragments 
of limestone pounded down, or a portion of lime rubbish, or 
all mixed witii a little light loam, will be as good as any for 
this purpose. 

Others require bog-mould, or entire decayed vegetable 
matter, to bring them to perfection, such as Rubus chamoe- 
moris, li. arliciis, and others, while some seem to exist upon 
vegetable matter while yet in a state of life ; such, for in- 
stance, as Drosera rolnnd/folia, D. longifoUa, &c., which 
Hre cultivated, as well as many of the curious plants of the 
order Orclndccc^ in masses of moist and living Sphagnum. 
Manure seldom enters into the compositions for growing rock 
plants ; indeed, in general, it is injurious rather than beneficial. 
A pure, exposed, airy situation, which is kept cool during the 
excessive heats of summer by the application of plenty of 
water, copiously given over-head to refresh them, at such times 
when the sun is off them, and to cool the surrounding air, 
seems the mode of cultivation most corresponding to their na- 
tures. In cultivating a collection of choice Alpine plants, or 
such as pass under that denomination, it is necessary, for the 
preservation of each species, that at least one plant or two 
should be kept in pots ; as, when planted out upon the rock, 
they are in danger of being overrun by their more rambling 
neighbours, or destroyed by damp in autumn, or excessive 
cold in winter. To prevent disappointment, and the loss of 
any valuable species, a collection should be kept in pots, 
which need not be large ; the size known by the name of large 
sixties will be found sufficient for the greatest portion of them; 
and a collection so kept has its beauties, when arranged in a 
neat manner in the rock garden during summer upon a bed 
formed of finely-sifted coal-ashes, and kept neat and clean ; 
while during winter they ought to be plunged up to the brim 
almost in the same material, and carefully covered with frames 
and glasses, so that they may be kept as dry as possible, and 
frequently examined, to remove all mouldiness, or appearance 
of damp or decayed leaves. We have cultivated for some years 



SS2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



past extensive collections of these interesting little plants, and 
found them to succeed to our wishes by adopting the following 
treatment : — 

When the plants begin to vegetate in spring, but not before, 
they should be examined, and those which are in want of 
shifting should be separated into two or more pieces, according 
to the nature of the plant, and each separate piece be potted 
in a pot of the same size, if it be wished to have the number 
of the species much increased. Where it is desired to have 
only a stock sufficient to preserve each species, then instead 
of potting each piece into which they are divided, we have 
planted them out on the rock to make up deficiencies; or when 
they were not wanted for that purpose, we have planted them 
on the tops of walls, or in other situations agreeing with their 
respective natures. We do not recommend to shift all the 
collection at one stated time, all fixed periods for such pur- 
poses being radically wrong ; plants should only be shifted or 
repotted when they require it, and not promiscuously, merely 
because it is spring, summer, or autumn. At a more advanced 
period of the season they should be gone over again, and di- 
vided or propagated, as they require it. When all danger of 
frost is over in spring, they should be all removed from their 
winter quarters, and placed on prepared beds of finely-sifted 
coal-ashes placed closely together. The ground under such 
covering of ashes should be previously prepared, by being 
formed of prepared clay, to the depth of a foot or more, and, 
when finished, a few inches higher at the sides than in the 
middle, for the purpose of more readily retaining water ; for 
although most Alpine plants require to be kept dry during a 
great part of the year, still they seem to thrive better when 
their roots are kept cool, and this is partly attained by keep- 
ing the bed upon which they stand rather damp, particularly 
during the heats of summer. Worm>^, which are also a great 
annoyance to all plants in pots, will not so readily reach them, 
being less fond of living in the strong clay than in richer 
garden-mould. 

Alpine plants, arranged in pots of llic same size, and neatly 
numbered, or their names painted on neat labels, will be 
rather a pleasing object. Care should ])e taken in labelling 
all plants, to adopt labels bearing some proportion to the 



THE FLOWER GARDEN, 



S3S 



plants, the name or number of which they are meant to ex- 
press. Nothing looks so bad as large, clumsy, badly written 
or painted labels ; and rather than they should be used, it h 
better to have none at all. During summer, all that is re 
quired in their management, is to supply them with plenty o 
water, mornings and evenings in dry weather, and to examim 
them carefully in time of excessive sunshine, to give them • 
little shade during the hottest part of the day ; and every mea- 
sure calculated to render the air round them cool durino 
summer is desirable. They should be often examined during 
continued rains ; and where it appears that from bad draining, 
or other causes, the water does not pass readily through the 
ball and pot, they should be turned over, so that the super- 
fluous water may run out, in which position they may remain 
until dry enough to be repotted, or they may be placed on 
the top of the other pots for a like purpose. When worms 
make their appearance in the pots, it is necessary to turn the 
ball carefully out, and by that means the worms may be got at 
and destroyed ; or they may be watered over-head with lime- 
water, which, without injuring the tenderest plant, will bring 
the worms up to the surface, where they will soon expire. 
Slugs are more destructive to rare plants in pots than worms, 
and often eat the heart of the plant out before they can be 
observed; to keep them under, recourse has been had to 
lime-watering, &c., but we have always found hand-picking 
the most effectual remedy in all cases where these destructive 
creatures intrude themselves. 

Care should be observed during summer to collect seeds of the 
rarer species of Alpine annuals or biennials, or such as are found 
to propagate by that means only. This is the more necessary, 
as very many of our rarest plants ripen seeds immediately 
before their dissolution, thereby affording the cultivator the 
means of perpetuating, or very probably of rearing a new pro- 
geny more likely to be of longer duration with us. The 
change of climate sensibly affects plants which are natives of 
high latitudes, or great altitudes above the sea, and it is vi- 
sible in their continuing only a short time with us in a state 
of perfection ; nor is it in the least improbable, that some pe- 
rennial plants in their native habitats, become biennials, or 

5o 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



even annuals, wlien brought into our warmer climafe, some- 
what analogous to plants which are natives of the plains be- 
coming Viviparous when found growing in situations much 
more elevated. On the approach of the autumnal rains, they 
should be well cleaned and removed into their winter quarters, 
but not yet plunged in the coal-ashes, the intention of which 
is the preservation of the pots from expansion by frost, as well 
as the preservation of the plants. 

For the first few weeks they should be exposed constantly 
to tlie air by removing the lights entirely, and only keeping 
them on during llie time of rain ; but in winter, however, they 
need not have much air, provided they be kept free from damp 
and frost. Alpine plants, although natives of regions of great 
altitude, many of them growing within the limits of perpetual 
snow, are often found destroyed by the frost of an English 
winter ; and this proves the necessity of covering them not 
only with glass lights, but in severe weather with mats, in 
imitation of the natural covering of snow, by which they are 
protected and kept warm. 

INTany plants are almost annually imported from different 
parts of the globe, which are seldom kept alive above a season 
or two even by the best cultivators. Of these, the families of 
Sarracerifa, OpJrnjs, Habeiinria, CoraUorrhiza, Orchis^ and 
several others, furnish examples. Plants of these families require 
a peculiar mode of culture, with which cultivators are not yet 
sufficiently acquainted. The most successful cultivators grow 
them chiefly in decayed vegetable matter and moss, and depend 
upon keeping them in a close moist atmosphere, considerably 
shaded. These, however splendid and curious in their mode 
of flowering, are not often met with in our flower gardens, 
which arises from a want of knowledp^e of their proper 
culture. 

In cultivation, the majority of these plants require the con- 
stant protection of a frame and glass, and to be kept moist 
by frequent waterings. The pots in which they are planted 
should be large, and packed round with moist moss, or 
plunged into decayed leaves or woody matter very much de- 
cayed, so that the roots may never be exposed to the changes 
of wet and dry ; and the pots used for them should be such 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



835 



as are used for growing balbs in, as their roots penetrate to a 
considerable depth. In situations where they can be planted 
out in shady woods, choosing dry or damper spots for such 
species as require it, and protected from accidental injury, a 
great hope exists of their being naturalized into this country ; 
but many of the species cannot be expected to remain long 
in existence in our flower gardens. 

Near to the Alpine garden, if a situation be naturally favor- 
able, a shaded bank should be made for mosses ; and blocks of 
stone, and stumps of old trees scattered about for the growth 
of fungi. It is only the want of situation, which should be 
both damp and shaded, and the limited knowledge which ex- 
ists of these numerous and extremely beautiful and curious 
plants, that prevent their cultivation. Few plants, if any, in 
the vegetable kingdom, are so tenacious of life as the majority 
of the plants forming the great mass of musci or mosses. 
Being for the most part evergreens, and producing their fruit 
during winter, they will afford a pleasant study to those at- 
tached to botanical pursuits, and only require to be seen to 
be generally admired. Few attempts have been made in this 
country to cultivate them, and there is little doubt of the suc- 
cess in situations naturally calculated for them. They thrive 
best in the most barren soil, and almost alv/ays in cold and 
moist situations. Most of them are perennial and evergreen, 
and their growth is remarkably slow ; three, four, and five 
months often elapse from the first appearance of many of thera 
till they arrive at perfection. 



836 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



MONTHLY OPERATIONS 

OF TtlB 

FLOWER GARDEN. 



JANUARY. 



PLANTING ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS. 

At this season, few operations can be carried on in this 
department, at least as far as regards planting, &c., unless the 
season be unusually mild, and the soil to be operated upon 
be of a dry, light texture. Strong wet soils should either be 
planted early in autumn or late in spring. However, when it 
is intended to plant, the ground may be prepared, if the 
weather be dry, and all made ready for planting as the season 
advances. Should it be temperate, and the soil dry, deci- 
duous shrubs and trees may be planted, taking care to keep 
them as short time as possible out of the ground, in order that 
the roots may not be exposed to the cutting winds. Tender 
shrubs and evergreens of every description, should not be 
pL^nted now, unless under favorable circumstances, but the 
former in March or November, and the latter in August and 
September, and April and May, when it will be found that 
they will succeed much better. However, where mixed shrub- 
beries are to be planted, the spaces for such may be left until 
the above seasons. With great care, however, evergreens 
may be removed, even if of a large size, at any season from 
April to November, but not so successfully during the winter 
months. The success of transplanting, in all cases, depends 
much on the length of time which the plants are out of the 
ground, as well as on their size, and the nature of the soil in 
which they grow. In cold situations and strong soils, before 
planting be attempted, it is necessary that the ground be pro- 
perly drained and trenched, without which, there can be little 



Jan.] THE FLOWER GARDEN. 837 

hope of success. Where draining may not be necessary, it is 
of the greatest importance that trenching should not be omitted, 
however good the soil may be in other respects. Nothing can 
be more erroneous in practice, although we see it daily done, 
than to dig a pit for a tree of only sufficient size for the roots, 
which are thrust in, and a few clods trodden in upon them ; 
pits made on that principle serve as vessels for holding the 
superfluous water, that may and will collect in them, and the 
sides being hard, it cannot readily pass off, but remain to 
stagnate and sour the mould about the roots, which soon pe- 
rish. Independently of which, the roots being shortened in 
the operation of taking up, throw out many fine young fibres, 
which are intended for collecting the future food of the plant. 
These fibres, after finding their way through the loose mould 
with which the pit may be filled, and which may have been 
prepared for the purpose of more readily causing them to 
emit young roots, find a barrier in the sides of the pit, through 
which they are unable to penetrate, and so remain confined 
within the narrow compass of the pit, until the tree, in all 
probability, decays for want of nourishment ; or, where the 
pits are small, and the plants large, they are blown about, 
so that their roots never make any effort to extend themselves, 
and consequently the tree perishes. 

The ground being previously trenched, these objections are 
re 1 edied ; a free filtration goes on, and no part of the 
ground retains more than its just share of moisture; the 
roots finding no impediment in extending themselves in all 
directions. 

Much also depends on the state of the gi'ound, at the time 
of planting, as to whether it be too dry or too wet to ensure 
success ; it can scarcely ever be too dry, and never at this 
season ; and should it be too wet from continued rains or 
melting snow, it is much better to defer planting until it be- 
come of a proper texture. At a time when the soil may be 
termed neither wet nor dry, the operation of planting will be 
most • successfully performed. It is, therefore, improper to 
plant in a retentive soil in the time of rain, or even perhaps 
for some days afterwards, or after a fall of snow, until it has 
for some days disappeared ; whereas, on dry sandy soils it may 



838 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan, 



be proper to plant in the time of gentle showers immediately 
after heavy rains, or as soon as the snow has disappeared. 

At all times, in preparing the pits for plants, they should be 
made large, whether the ground has been trenched or not, 
with the view of admitting the fibres and roots of the plants to 
be spread out to their full length. Much of the success of plant- 
ing depends on the spreading out of the roots of the plants in 
a regular manner, and covering them equally with fine earth, 
which, if the natural soil be not particularly good, where the 
trees planted are large or valuable, it will be well to procure 
some fine mould in which to plant them ; or, if the soil be 
good, some pains should be bestowed to break the mould 
fine with the spade, and to dispose of it in a regular manner 
over the roots of the plant; and as the mould is regularly 
filled in, the plant should be pulled gently up and down, or 
if large, shaken a little, so as to admit of the mould filling 
up all the spaces between the roots. The mould should also 
be gently trodden round it with the foot, and the plant set 
upright, unless when planting to attain certain purposes, 
when it may be necessary that some of the trees should not 
stand perpendicularly. 

If the plants be large, they should be carefully supported 
as they are planted with stakes, to prevent them being blown 
about by the wind. For want of this precaution many plant* 
are lost, for nothing is more injurious to them than being 
beaten about and loosened at their roots by the wind. It 
lacerates and breaks the roots ; and the friction of the stem 
on the surrounding mould forms an opening, which will admit 
either frost or drought to the roots, both of which are ex- 
tremely injurious to newly-planted trees. 

Newly-planted trees of all sizes, even those that are small, 
should be gone over occasionally after planting, and those 
placed upright which may have fallen to a side, and the ground 
round their roots trodden, and all cracks filled up, so as to 
prevent the access of drought. 

Mulching trees has its advantages, and should be more ge- 
nerally attended to than appears to be the case. By mulching 
is to be understood a laying on of a covering of littery dung, 
saw-dust, or any other refuse matter capable of resisting the 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



839 



effects of drought upon tlie surface round the roots of newly- 
planted trees. Gardeners mulch with rich dung, when they 
wish to convey manure to the roots of trees or plants without 
disturbing the ground round their roots. Liquid manure an- 
swers the same purpose. But in the case of mulching shrubs 
or ornamental trees, where the intention is to keep the mould 
round their roots moist, and not to manure them ; any refuse 
matter may be used with equal success. 



PRUNING. 

Hardy trees and shrubs may be pruned, if the weather be 
not very severe, but with the more delicate, as well as with all 
evergreens, the operation s^iould be deferred till March. This 
is an operation too generally neglected ; the consequence of 
which is, the miserable dead-and-alive specimens of shrubs 
which we so often see, as well as misshapen trees, which, 
with a little management, might have been very ornamental. 
All plants and trees, whether cultivated for their fruits or for the 
beauty of their flowers, require and should have an annual gene- 
ral pruning or arrangement of their branches, and this pruning 
should be performed more or less, according to the sort of beauty 
or effect expected from them. Those which are cultivated 
chiefly on account of their flowers, should in all cases be 
pruned upon the same general principles as fruit-trees ; that 
is, all wood slioiild be removed that has a tendency to ex- 
haust or weaken the tree or plant by an unnecessary profusion 
of leaves and branches. Those which are grown chiefly on 
account of their foliage, should be less pruned, merely taking 
away all weak shoots, or part of those that are stronger, where 
they appear too crowded. Those which are cultivated for the 
beauty of their natural shape or general outline, require little 
or no pruning, except it may be the removal of those branches 
which may have been accidentally injured. Of this descrip- 
tion are all those trees which stand singly upon the lav.n, 
grass-plats, &c., and all specimens of trees in the arboratani. 
No one can expect to have fine shrubberies, nor even fine trees, 
without the use of the pruning-knife, if for no other purpose 
than the removal of dead and misplaced spray. In pruning 



840 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



shrubs, we need scarcely caution the most inexperienced 
novice against the barbarous use of the hedge-shears. The 
instruments necessary for this purpose, are pruning-knives, 
saws, and a neat pruning-hook ; and the object to be attained 
is the removal of all ill-placed branches, either where they 
cross each other to disfigure the tree, or where they obtrude 
upon other specimens, or come too close to the walks or 
flower-plats. In their removal, let it be done as by stealth, 
so that the amputation will not be discovered. It is often 
necessary also to thin out the heads of trees and shrubs, for 
the free admission of air into them, as well as to keep them 
within their prescribed bounds. Some shrubs require an an- 
nual pruning, such as roses, which if cut well in, will break 
much stronger, and flower better ; besides, by this mode of 
regulating them, they will be kept within reasonable bounds, 
and always have a healthy and young appearance. 

Rambling plants, such as Loriicera, Clematis, and others, 
require also a regulation of their branches, by removing all 
the dead wood, and such of the old as can be spared, as well 
as shortening some of the young shoots well in, to ensure a 
succession of young vigorous wood to fill up the spaces they 
may be intended to cover ; without which they would become 
thin, and unsightly at their bottoms. 

GRASS-LAWNS, GRASS AND GRAVLL-WALKS. 

Grass-lawns and walks should be regularly attended to in 
open weather, and frequently rolled, polled, and swept ; and 
where worm-casts are troublesome, let the whole be watered 
with lime-water, applied by the watering-pot, and repeated till 
all appearance of them is over. Where leaves or other litter 
may have been blown upon any part of the grass in the plea- 
sure-ground, it should be removed as extremely injurious to 
it, and if left long upon it, would destroy it entirely. The 
grass verges of walks should also be swept, and the roller 
either drawn over them, or else beaten down, with the turf 
beater. 

If the weather be open and mild, those places which may 
have been injured, or where the turf is bad, or decaying, 



JanJ] THE FLOWER GARDEN. 841 

should be made good. Turf may now be laid to any extent 
in the formation of lawns or grass-walks, taking care that it 
be laid down as soon as possible after it be cut, and not ex- 
posed to frost or drying winds. The ground, previously to 
having the turf laid upon it, either for walks or lawns, should 
be levelled, and such places as may have been raised with 
fresh mould should be trodden or beaten down, to prevent it 
from sinking afterwards. 

When the whole is brought to the desired level, it should 
be well rolled, if the weather be dry enough to admit of that 
operation ; and if the soil be rich on which it is intended to 
lay the turf, it would be well to lay an inch and a half, or 
two inches of any light sandy poor mould upon it, to prevent 
the too rapid growth of the grass afterwards. Grcat care 
ought to be paid to procure turf of the finest quality, that 
from a sheep-walk or down is always to be preferred, as being 
naturally composed of grasses of habits the least luxuriant. 
The turf should be cut in lengths of three feet, and one in 
breadth, and as near to one inch and a half in thickness as 
possible, and, as they are cut, they should be neatly rolled up, 
the grass-side inwards, to render them more portable, and 
less liable to be broken in the carriage. 

Where turf of this description is not to be had, it is 
better to sow down the ground intended for grass with 
grass-seeds than to use bad turf. The families Aira, Lo- 
Hum, Festuca, Cynosiiriis, are to be preferred, with a mix- 
ture of Trifolium repens^ avoiding those of the families of 
Dactylisy Bromus, 2'ritictim, &c., as of too gross a growth, 
ever to be brought to a fine bottom. It is to be regretted 
that so little attention is paid to the cultivation of the 
useful grasses, both in regard to agriculture and gardening. 
Previously to laying down lawns or walks, either with turf 
or artificial grass- seeds, it is necessary to have the ground well 
cleared of »noxious weeds, for if not done before they are 
formed, it cannot be so well done afterwards. When the turf 
is laid, it should be well beaten two or three times over with 
the turf-beater, so as to beat the whole into one mass ; after- 
wards, it should be rolled and otherwise managed according 
to directions, which will be subsequently given. 

5 p 



845 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan, 

PLANTING EDGINGS OF BOX, &C. 

If the weather be mild and dry, edgings of box, tlirift, &c. 
may be planted. In preparing the ground for box-edgings, it 
Is necessary that it be well trodden or beaten down, and 
rendered level with the surface of the intended walk. The 
line should then be stretched upon it, and with a spade a 
neat even trench should be made six or eight inches deep, 
turning the earth out to the side next the walk. Against the 
side of this trench, which should be rather sloping, the box- 
])lants are placed, and kept steady in their place by pressing 
the back of the hand against them, while, with the other, the 
earth thrown out in its formation is placed over the roots and 
against the plants, which keeps them in their proper place 
and position. 

In preparing the plants for planting, let them be moderately 
divided, and thinned out in form of a fan, the large and woody 
roots cut off, as well as the tips of the tops, so that, wlien 
the plants are planted, the line will appear straight, level, and 
equal throughout. Let a sufficient quantity of mould be 
placed to their roots, and the whole afterwards filled up with 
gravel, and the walk neatly rolled down. 

Edciniis of thrift, Statice armerta, a native of our sea- 
coasts and highest mountains, is often planted, and while 
young, looks neat, but, from its rapid growth and short dura- 
lion, is not so well calculated for edgings as box ; it is readily 
))ropngated by dividing the plants into pieces; whether they 
have fibrous roots or not is of little consequence to their 
growth : they may be planted as already directed for box, or 
dibbled in at three inches apart. 

PROPAGATING HARDY SHRUBS BY CUTTINGS. 

Many hardy deciduous shrubs will now succeed by tins 
mode of propagating. The young shoots of last year s growth 
should invariably be made choice of, and cut into lengths 
according to the various sizes and kinds; by autumn they wdl 
be fit either to plant out into nursery lines, or some of them 
may be sufficiently strong to plant out permanently in the 
shrubberies. 



Jan.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



843 



FROPAGATING BY LAYERS. 

This mode of jn-opagation, although not to be generally 
recommended, as the plants mostly originated by it are found 
to grow to trees less handsome than those which are ob- 
tained by seeds or cuttings, is still the most expeditious and 
sure mode for obtaining rooted plants, and is therefore too 
often practised by cultivators. There are, however, many rare 
and valuable plants that are found so difficult to propagate by 
other means, that it is necessary often to adopt it. For many 
of those plants, this and the three following months are 
peculiarly adapted 

PROTECTING TENDER SHRUBS AND PLANTS. 

Great care should now be paid to those shrubs and plants 
^, liich are of themselves not sufficiently hardy to stand our vari 
able, and often inclement winters, without protection. Sup- 
posing that, upon the approach of winter, they have been matted 
up, or otherwise protected by temporary coverings put over 
them, as well as their roots protected by laying some dry fronds 
of fern, straw, or saw-dust over their roots ; in fine days the 
covering which is over their branches should be removed, 
to allow them to enjoy as much light and air as possible, and 
such covering should only be again applied on the appearance 
of severe frosts. Such shrubs and herbaceous plants, as may 
have been planted in autumn, should be also protected at their 
roots by spreading litter, fern, or straw over the surface, to 
prevent the admission of frost, which to them would be ex- 
tremely injurious, and to many even fatal. 

ALPINE AND RARE PLANTS REQUIRING PROTECTION. 

The Alpine plants in pots^ in frames or pits, or those which 
are rare and require such protection, should be daily looked 
over, and all appearance of damp removed. The glasses 
should be kept constantly on them, unless in fine days, when 
they may be partially removed. Such plants, while in an 



84-1- THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan, 

inactive state, will not hurt from being confined under cover, 
provided ihey be kept dry ; as, in their native habitats, they 
are covered with snow for several months annually. 

florists' flowers. 

Under this head we comprehend tulips, pinks, carnations, 
auriculas, polyanthuses, anemonies, ranimculuses, hyacinths, 
&c. The tulip-beds, planted in autumn, should be pro- 
tected from much wet, as well as from severe frosts ; both 
of which would be very injurious to them. Those pinks and 
carnations, which are in pots or beds, should also be attended 
to, and all decayed leaves removed, and the beds protected 
from too much wet by occasional coverings of canvas or reed- 
mats, which can be readily applied by having the beds hooped 
over in a neat and secure manner. Those which are in pots 
should be protected by being plunged in coal-ashes, or saw- 
dust, up to their rims, or removed under cover of frames and 
glasses. Auriculas and polyanthuses require at this time to 
be also protected from severe cold and heavv- rains. It is of 
material consequence that both, particularly the former, be 
kept dry, and placed in an airy situation, for, if placed in one 
which is wet, they are liable to damp off. 

PLANTING ANEMONIES, RANUNCULUSES, &C. 

biRa of these as were not planted in autumn may be now 
planted, if the ground be drv', and the weather mild ; but it is 
only in very light soils that they will succeed at this time, the 
proper time of planting being October and November, and in 
wet heavy soils in February and March : the latter planting 
will prolong the season of flowering. 

PLANTING BULBS. 

Various bulbs^ such as hyacinths, jonquils, prancratiums, 
narcissuses, frittillaries, crown imperials, &c., may still be 
planted in light dry soils, if not planted in October and No- 
vember ; but, in heavy" wet soils, it is better to defer planting 



Jan,] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



845 



till the end of February or March. Crocuses and snow- 
drops may also be planted, either in beds, arranging the co- 
lours, so as to produce effect, if in beds, or they may be planted 
for temporary edgings, or in patches, of ten or twelve roots 
each, by the sides of the walks, or under the shade of trees 
and shrubs, where almost nothing else would grow. The 
more common kinds of narcissuses, crocuses, and snow-drops, 
together with Winter Aconite, EranPkis hyemalis^ Helleborus 
nigra^ H. IhiduSy and H. atro-rubens, will give relief to the 
gloom and dead appearance of the grove in winter, and give 
rise to pleasing associations in the shrubbery. These may 
be now planted, and if once introduced into the shaded parts 
of the pleasure-ground, will not readily be lost. 



FORCING FLOWERS. 

Many flowers may be brought to perfection for the drawing- 
room, &c., with little trouble or expence at this early part of 
the season, either forced in pits, or placed in any of the 
forcing-houses now at work. For this purpose, it is necessary 
to have a stock potted, or reared in pots in autumn, and pro- 
tected during winter until such time as they may be wanted. 
The sorts most generally chosen for this purpose are Cape 
Jasmine Gardenia floriday G. radicans, carnations, mig- 
nionette, double-flowering peach, double-flowering cherry, 
pinks, double rockets, violets, Viola odorata var. pallido 
plena, &c. ; wall-flower Cheiranihus Cheiri flora pie no, &c.; 
roses of sorts, Amaryllis of sorts, hyacinths, Persian and 
common lilac, narcissus of sorts, Heliotropium peruvianunii 
and many others which are found to perfect their flowers 
from this time until they expand in the open air. 

Many bulbous plants may be flowered to great perfection, 
particularly hyacinths, narcissuses, and tulips, by placing 
them upon bulb-glasses, which glasses should be filled with 
soft-water, and the bulb so placed that their bottoms only 
should touch the water. These, if placed in any of the forc- 
ing-houses at work, or other warm situation, will readily come 
into bloom. They will soon shoot their roots into the water, 
which should be changed for them every day. 



846 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [FcO. 



FEBRUARY. 



PLANTING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS AND TREES. 

The planting of all deciduous shrubs and trees on light 
soils should now be finished as fast as possible. But, on soils 
of a colder nature, they may be planted during the following 
six weeks with success. Where it is intended to plant 
largely, it will be well in either case to have all such as arc 
intended to be planted taken up, and laid in by the heels, as 
it is technically called, so that vegetation may be checked or 
retarded until it be possible to have them planted. Evergreens 
should not be planted at this time, unless for particular reasons, 
as they are found to succeed much better when planted either 
in August or April, and the beginning of May. However, 
with care, these may be planted at this time where parti- 
cularly wanted. At this season it is material that they be 
kept out of the ground but as short a time as possible, and 
that their roots be not exposed to frost or to cold cutting 
winds. 

PRUNING SHRUBS AND TREES. 

Let the pruning of all shrubs and trees be now finished as 
soon as possible, that the borders and grounds may be dug 
or otherwise put in order for the season ; and, in performing 
this operation, it is necessary, in the first place, to cut out all 
dead or decaying wood, or spray, and to shorten in all the 
shoots which may have been injured, or not sufficiently ripened, 
to their extremities. Those shrubs which are naturally dis- 
posed to grow bushy or crowded, should be thinned out par- 
ticularly towards their centre, that the air may more readily 
circulate among the remaining branches. Roses should be 
headed down, leaving only a few inches of the last ycar*c 
wood, which will make them break stronger, and flower more 
abundantly; besides, hard pruning keeps them neat and within 
proper bounds, without which they would soon become un- 



Feb.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



847 



sightly. Honeysuckles, and such rambling growing shrubs, 
require also to be well shortened in, unless where they are 
intended to cover walls or disagreeable objects. In the 
flower garden and shrubbery, where a dense mass of vegetation 
is not particularly wanted to hide certain objects, or for the 
sake of shelter, each shrub should stand detached, and of 
itself form an agreeable outline. Ornamental trees require 
little or no pruning, as it is intended to see them assume their 
natural characters ; but those branches which may have been 
broken or injured during the winter, or those which cross each 
other in a crowded manner, may be safely removed. 

All suckers rising from the bottoms of shrubs should be 
either destroyed, or, if wanted for propagation, should be 
removed and planted out to nurse until they be strong enough 
to be planted out where they are to remain. 

DIGGING THE SHRUBBERY AND FLOWER BORDERS. 

When the weather is dry, the shrubbery should be dug over 
in a neat manner, which will greatly encourage the growth of 
the shrubs, as well as give the whole a more agreeable appear- 
ance, and render it much easier to keep it in neat order during 
the summer by the hoe and rake. It is never necessary to 
give manure to shrubs; but when the roots of them become so 
matted and entangled, as to render digging amongst them im- 
practicable, it may be necessary to top dress them with any 
light mould which is free of weeds; this will greatly encourage 
their growth, as well as give the borders a neater appearance. 
In very old shrubberies, digging is unnecessary; all that is 
required is merely to keep them clear of weeds and decayed 
leaves, by means of the hoe and rake. 

The flower-borders are differently constituted, as they are 
never allowed, under good management, to become impene- 
trable to the spade. They require an annual digging, and 
that must be even carefully performed, for fear of injuring the 
plants which are under ground, or burying those that are 
small. 

To obviate this, in a great measure, each plant should be 
furnished with a label, upon which its name should bo neatly 



848 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



printed or written, or numbered, so as to refer to its name in 
a list. Many, however, object to plants being labeled, as 
having an appearance not altogether in character with the 
private flower garden, and where that is the case, stout pegs 
may be driven into the ground close to each plant, and their 
tops level with the surface ; this will, in a great measure, pro- 
tect the plants, while the cause is kept concealed. Great care 
should be taken in putting in the spade that the plants be not 
injured, and for the better effecting this purpose, a neat three- 
pronged fork might be used instead of the* spade, which will 
perform the necessary operation without endangering the 
plants. 

GRASS-WALKS AND LAWNS. 

Grass-walks and lawns may still be continued to be laid or 
sown where required. Continue to sweep, poll, and roll grass- 
walks and lawns, when the weather will permit. The grass- 
edgings or verges to gravel-walks, and the sides of all grass- 
walks, as well as the edges round clumps of shrubs or flowers, 
should be now neatly gone over with the edging iron, and cut 
as straight as possible. The accompanying figure represents 
an edging-iron of our invention, which was first published in 




the Gardeners Magazine, No. 2, by our permission, and 
may be purchased of Mr. Ware, at his Agricultural Machine 
Warehouse, Ox ford- Street, price One Guinea. In all cases, 
excepting when there is a long straight line to be edged, a 
garden-line is unnecessary ; where a line must be used, it will 
perhaps be best to place it so that it will run between the 
wheel and the coulter, or cutting-part of the machine (a); a 
■^^^r,\r^ fipo-ree of pressure is necessary uoon the handle, where 



THR FLOWER GARDEN. 



810 



the ground is hard ; and the knee'd coulter (b) may be used 
where the edgings are not very regular. 

The expedition and accuracy with which a labourer, once 
accustomed to use it, will go over a piece of gi-ound, is sur 
prising. As the grass will now be beginning to grow, it is 
necessary to have it cleared of all leaves, or other matter that 
may have accumulated dui'ing the winter, and to be put in neat 
order for the season. 

BOX OR OTHER EDGINGS, 

Edgings of box, thrift, &c., may now be planted, or any 
vacancies in those already planted may be made up. ( See 
last Month, ) 

GRAVEL WALKS. 

Keep the gi-avel-walks fi-ee from weeds, moss, and litter of 
every sort, and let them be often weeded, hoed, raked, and 
rolled, in dry weather. 

SOWING TENDER ANNUAL SEEDS. 

Towards the middle of the month prepare a hot-bed of 
moderate dimensions, on which to sow all kinds of tender 
annuals, either in large pots plunged in the dung, each having 
a different sort, or where the number of each may not be re- 
quired to be so great, two sorts may be sown in one pot, and 
when sown, each should be correctly labeled ; or, if the num- 
ber required be great, the bed being moulded over, small 
shallow drills may be made across it for their reception. As 
some of these seeds are very small, they should not be buried 
too deep, and the mould in which they are sown should be of 
a very light and rich nature ; that of vegetable mould of de- 
cayed tree-leaves should be preferred. 

When the plants appear, admit air every day, more or less, 
according to the weather, and let them be supplied with occa- 
sional waterings from a fine rose watering-pot, having (ho 
water aired previously to using it. Where only a few of 
these seeds are to be sown, they may be sown in pots, and 

5 Q 



850 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb, 



placed in any of llie hot-houses now at work, or at the back 
of any melon or cucumber-frames. When sufficiently strong, 
they are to be pricked out into small pots, and afterwards en- 
couraged in growth, so tliat they may attain a larger size 
before flowering. 

SOWING HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. 

Half-hardy annuals are such as require to be reared on a 
slight hot-bed, towards forwarding them for their final plan- 
tation in the open borders of the flower garden. They may 
be sown every way as already directed for tender annuals, but 
are always sown in greater quantity. When the seeds vege- 
tate, air should be freely admitted, and during fine days the 
glass may be entirely removed from them, taking care to cover 
them up at night. If the plants come up too thick, they 
should be thinned out, so that they may not be injurious to 
each other. 

SOWING HARDY ANNUALS. 

Towards the middle or latter end of this month, if the 
weather be mild, and the ground dry, and of a light and sandy 
nature, hardy annuals of all sorts may be sown either in beds 
to be again transplanted, or into the borders, where they are 
to flower, in patclies moderately thin, and not deeply covered. 
The smaller growing annuals do not succeed so well by being 
transplanted as those of stronger growth, therefore the former 
shoukl always be sown in patches, where they are to remain 
♦o llowcM-. In sowing them, the ground being previously 
dug, patches sliould be stirred up with a small trowel, about 
a foot broad, breaking the earth well; a small drill should 
then be drawn in a circle of nine or ten inches diameter, 
and half an inch deep, into which the seeds should be regu- 
larly sown, not too thick, and neatly covered over. As each 
patch is sown, it is necessary to place a small label in the 
centre of the circle, with the name of the plant sown, in order 
to })revent, in future sowings, too many of the same kinds, 
or too nimy of the same colours being together, as well 
as a mark to prevent ihcm from being destroyed in the ope- 



Feb.j THE FLOWER GARDEN. 851 

ration of hoeing and raking the borders. When the plants 
have come up an inch or two, they will require to be thinned, 
particularly the larger growing kinds, to admit of their attain- 
ing a good size. 

Where the soil is strong and wet, the patches may be formed 
for the reception of tlie seeds by placing iii each a spadeful or 
two of fine light sandy mould into which the seeds may be 
sown. 

SOWING PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

Seeds of hardy perennial flowers may now be sown on a 
moderate slight hot-bed, in rich light mould, as already di- 
rected for annuals. When the plants appear above ground, 
give air daily and freely, to prevent them being drawn up weak, 
also let them be moderately thinned out, so that they may 
attain some strength by the time that the weather will admit 
of their being pricked out into nursery-beds. 

SOWING BIENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

Seeds of hardy biennial flowers, may also now be sown 
either on a slight hot-bed or on a warm border, in light rich 
soil. The directions already given for perennials are also ap- 
plicable to these. 

PLANTING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

Herbaceous plants of all sorts may now be planted, if the 
weather be mild. In planting such, much judgment is ne- 
cessary, to dispose of the whole so as to produce an agreeable 
effect when in flower, as well as to arrange them, by which 
there will be an uninterrupted succession of flower during the 
season. 

florists' FLOWERS. 

The fine auriculas in pots should be gone over ; all decayed 
leaves removed, and the surfaces of the pots gently loosened 
up, and a little fresh mould applied all over the surface and 
round the stems. This will support them, and enable them to 



8o2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDEN I R. 



bring their flowers to greater perfection. Those which rcquii^' 
it, should be shifted into larger pots in a careful manner. AW 
suckers should be removed from the stems and potted, or 
otherwise disposed of. Water should be now given to them 
in moderate and regular supplies, and plenty of air admitted 
to them, if in frames, during the day ; but care must be taken 
to prevent them from exposure to frosts during the night, to 
prevent the opening blossom from being nipped or injured. 

Tulips and hyacinths in beds should be protected from 
severe frosts and rain, by being covered with canvas or mats, 
supported upon hoops arched over them ; for as the flower- 
buds will now be beginning to come through the gi'ound, t ey 
are in that state more liable to be destroyed. It is, however, 
unnecessary to protect the less valuable sorts, otherwise than 
merely by spreading a little dry litter over them in severe 
weather, but the more choice ones should be carefully pro- 
tected from continued rains, snow, or severe frost. 

Carnations and pinks should be often looked over, and all 
dead leaves picked ofij and every thing removed which tends 
to produce damp or decay. Those which are in pots sliould 
also be attended to, and a watchful eye kept that they do not 
sustain any injury from slugs or mice, both of which, at thi-> 
season, are often destructive to them. 

SOWING SEEDS OF AURICULAS AND POLYANTHUSES. 

Auricula and polyanthus seeds should be now sown either 
m a warm sheltered spot, or in shallow boxes or pots filled 
with light rich mould. Boxes and pots are to be preferred, 
as being more readily removed from one situation to another, 
as occasion may require. The surface should be made per- 
fectly smooth and level, on w^hich the see<ls should be sown 
tolerably thick, and covered about a quarter of an inch with 
very light finely-sifted mould. Previously to filling the boxes 
or pots, it is important that they be well drained at bottom, to 
allow of all superfluous moisture passing freely off". When 
sown, they should be placed in a situation perfectly sheltered 
from the cold winds, but entirely 0[^>en to the morning and 
mid-day sun. In this situation they may remain till the be- 



/V/a] the flower garden. 8 jo 

ginning of May, when it will be necessary to remove them to 
some more shaded place. There is not any plant which at- 
tracts the florist's attention, that requires more shade than the 
polyanthus. 

TRANSPLANTING CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 

In mild weather, transplant those carnation plants, which 
have been last year propagated from layers, into beds in the 
flower garden, or into pots, to be afterwards shifted into larger 
ones as they advance, in the latter of which they should be 
left to flower ; or they may be planted out singly, or in patches, 
of tln ee plants in each patch, promiscuously through the flower 
garden or edges of the shrubbery. 

Pinks propagated last year should now be also planted out, 
either in beds in the flower garden, or in patches in diiSferent 
parts of it. 

FLOWER GARDEN BORDERS. 

Let the flower garden borders or beds be now thoroughly 
cleared of all weeds, and every kind of litter ; for neatness in 
this department is expected, and always agi'eeable, and at no 
season more so than at the present, when the flowers and 
plants are beginning to appear. The surface of the borders 
should be neatly and carefully stiiTed with a hoe, and neatly 
raked, which will give a liveliness to the surface, and make 
the whole appear pleasing to the eye. 

ALPINE AND OTHER RARE PLANTS IN POTS. 

At this season, many of the Alpine, and other rare plants in 
pots, will now be beginning to show evident signs of vegeta- 
tion. It is necessary, therefore, that they be carefully ex- 
amined, and that it be ascertained which of them are dead, 
that they may be by some means or other made up again. 
Those which it is desirous to propagate, should now be taken 
out of their pots, and divided into pieces, according to their 
several habits, and repotted ; and others that may have in- 
creased beyond the intended limits of this collection, should 
he planted out, partly on the rock, or in favorable situations 



854 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENKH. 



[Feb 



in the flower borders ; keeping only a specimen or two of 
each in pots, unless it be those which are very minute and 
liable to be lost, or too rare to be yet trusted out either in the 
general collection or in the flower borders. Many Alpine 
plants of great beauty are only annuals, therefore such should 
be attended to, and the pots in which they grew left undis- 
turbed, as in a short time, it is very probable that a stock ot 
young ones will arise out of them, which is particularly the 
case with the families Cochlcaria, Illeccbnwi, Drabaj &c. 
Many other families, of which it is necessary to keep dupli- 
cates in pots, such as DiantJius, and some others, require to 
be propagated annually either by cuttings or seeds ; with such 
exceptions, the remainder should be annually repotted and 
divided, and no season is so fit as the present. As they are 
repotted, they should be replaced in the frames or pits, and 
protected from heavy rains until they have taken fresh root, 
after which time the majority of them will be fit to be placed 
in their summer station, which should always be one that is 
shaded by walls or pales, but not by any means by trees, un- 
less the plants can be placed sufticiently distant from them 
to be out of danger of being injured by their dropping. 

Seeds of Alpine plants may be sown at this time with every 
chance of success ; and as they are small, they should be 
sown in finely-sifted mould in pots, and kept in a cool frame, 
considerably shaded, and regularly supplied with water. In 
sowing the seeds, they should be scattered rather thin on the 
mould, to afford them room when they vegetate, so that they 
may be left to attain a considerable size before removed to 
single pots, as they are very apt to damp off' when potted 
while too small. 



Mar.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



855 



MARCH. 



PLANTING SHRUBS AND ORNAMENTAL TREES. 

The planting of all deciduous shrubs and ornamental trees 
should now be finished as soon as possible, as many of the 
forward kinds will be beginning to vegetate. In planting in 
light soils, the roots of trees should be well covered with mud 
previously to being planted, or, as gardeners term it, mudded 
in, or well watered immediately afterwards ; and those which 
are of large size should be supported in a neat and secure 
manner with stakes, to prevent their being blown about by the 
winds. Evergreens of the Pinus, and such like hardy families, 
may be successfully planted now, but for those evergreens 
which are of a more delicate nature, the next month is more 
suitable, particularly if in exposed situations. In shaded or 
sheltered situations, they may be, with care, planted almost 
at any day of the year with success ; but on a large scale, and 
where they are not completely sheltered, April and May will 
be found the better season for spring planting, and August 
and September for the autumnal. 

Where roses are to be planted, either in the borders singly, 
or in collections, this is a good time for that operation. When 
planted in the borders, they should occupy the front, or side 
nearest to the point from which they are to be seen ; as the 
best cultivators of this flower, by training and pruning, keep 
them within a few inches of the ground, unless for particular 
purposes, they may be occasionally allowed to grow to a 
greater height. 

Few flowering shrubs require a better soil to produce their 
flowers in perfection than the rose, although in their wild 
state most of them are found in sandy poor soils, yet, when 
cultivated, they can hardly he planted in soils too rich or 
strong. 

Roses planted in collections by themselves, are very inte- 
resting; and, in an extensive place, it cannot be considered as 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



complete without such a collection. To produce the greatest, 
and probably the most imposing effect, this numerous family 
should form the furniture as it were of an entire garden. 
Such gardens have been denominated rosaries, and are va- 
riously formed, according to the extent of the collection and 
taste of the planter or owner. In the arrangement of the 
sorts, they should be so placed, that the varieties which re- 
semble each other may be placed together, in order that their 
distinctions may be the more readily seen, and only one plant 
of each variety introduced. The different varieties of China 
roses should be placed by themselves, that they may be the 
more readily protected during winter, as many of the finer 
varieties are not sufficiently hardy to stand our severest win- 
ters. That numerous assemblage of roses, denominated 
Scotch, from their habit of growth are better calculated for 
covering banks or rock-work, than blending in a general ar- 
rangement of this family ; they should, therefore, also be 
planted in a separate compartment by themselves, either as a 
centre or margin for the whole. 

Of this interesting section of this genus, there are above 
three hundred varieties to be procured in the nursery ot 
Messrs. Austin of Glasgow, who probably have the finest 
collection in the kingdom. The catalogues of roses in the 
London nurseries enumerate upwards of live hundred names ; 
and the catalogue of Calvert & Co., near Rouen, exceeds nine 
hundred : the greater part of these being raised within these 
thirty years from seeds saved on the continent, where these 
seeds ripen more frequenily than with us. French roses are 
imported annually by us in large quantities, and are in a 
great part budded upon stems of stronger gi-owing kinds, 
from two to ten feet high. 

In planting rosaries, those which are considered English 
roses, or such French ones as are hardy enough to stand our 
climate without injury, should be planted and trained, by laying 
annually the branches to within a few inches of the ground, and 
so managed that the whole surface may be covered with them. 
The more delicate French roses may be planted as standards 
amongst the others, and will in such an arrangement have a 



Mar.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



good effect ; or they may be planted out on the lawn singly, or 
in lines by the sides of walks. 

GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS. 

Where grass lawns are to be made of any considerable ex- 
tent, this is now a good season, and the mode of forming them 
by sowing is decidedly the most exj^ditious and economical. 
In preparing the ground for this purpose, it is necessary to be 
at some pains in having it thoroughly cleared of root-weeds, 
which if not done now, cannot be accomplished afterwards 
without evident injury to the grass. For this purpose, the 
ground should be carefully dug over and all such roots picked 
out ; it should then be properly levelled and rolled down to a 
regular and uniform consistency. If the ground be rich, which 
is thus intended to be laid down, the grasses would be apt to 
grow too luxuriantly, and be not only difficult to keep, but 
would also never become of a fine bottom. A thin stratum of 
sand or light sandy earth should be regularly spread over the 
whole, as noticed last month ; over this a thin stratum of 
earth of a richer texture should be placed in an even manner, 
into which the seeds should be regularly sown, and when 
raked in, be well rolled with a heavy roller. As the spring 
advances, the new sown lawn should be frequently examined 
and cleared of all weeds as they appear, and if the grass-seeds 
have failed, or come up too thin in some places, more seed 
should be sown as soon as such failures are discovered. Such 
lawns should be cut several times during the first season, but 
never too close nor yet in dry weather, as, in that case, the roots 
would be liable to be parched up by the drought. 

Where immediate eftect is the object, and where good turf 
can be procured, the most eligible plan is to cover the whole 
with turf cut from some down or sheep-walk, where the herbage 
is fine, as, in a few weeks, the whole may appear as if it had 
been made for years. This is as a good season for this opera- 
tion as any, indeed, from September till the beginning of May, 
provided the operation be performed neither in too dry nor too 
frosty weather. Such as is laid late in spring should be oc- 
casionally supplied with water, until the turf has taken root, if 

5 K 



858 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the season be not unusually wet. The ground, previously to 
the turf being laid down, should be properly levelled, and if too 
rich, a thin stratum of fine sand, or light sandy barren mould, 
should be placed all over it, as already directed. As it is laid 
down, let it be well beaten with the turf-beater, and, when 
tolerably dry, repeatedly rolled. During the first season after 
laying, it should not be too frequently, nor yet too closely cut, 
as it will be less able to resist the effects of dry weather. 

Grass walks are not so frequently met with now as formerly, 
neither should they be introduced where good gravel can be 
had, particularly where there is to be much traffic, as they are 
less calculated to last long in good condition. However, it 
sometimes occurs that such walks are not to be dispensed with, 
and, in such cases, they should be formed at once of turf, and 
not sown down with seeds ; and the tougher the turf is, tlie 
better they will resist the action of the feet. 

GRAVEL WALKS. 

Gravel walks should now be put in good order for the season. 
Where the gravel is still clean and good, they should be rolled 
once or twice a week, so that the surface may be kept smooth 
and agreeable to" walk upon. Those walks which have been 
made a long time, and are become dirty uj)on the surface, as 
well as those which are liable to be overrun with different 
species of mosses and other weeds, should be turned ; that is, 
they should be dug over with a spade to the depth of two, three, 
or four inches, turning that which was the surface into the 
bottom, and bringing up from that depth a fresh surface ; by 
til is means the walks will appear as if they were newly made. 
Where gravel walks have been washed away during the winter, 
in a season of heavy rains, or have fallen into holes or inequali- 
ties of surface, or which are otherwise out of proper repair, 
they should be top-dressed with a thin coat of clean good 
gravel, and well rolled down. 

In forming new gravel walks it is important that they be 
rendered perfectly dry at bottom, by having a formation of 
from one to two feet of brick-bats, flints, small stones, or such 
like matter, over which the gravel is to be placed. Such pre- 



Ma,^ 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



859 



paratioii is necessary in all situations, however dry ; but in wet 
ones it will also be necessary, in order to render them still more 
dry, to have a drain in the middle of each, below the stratum 
of flint, stones, &c., which drains should empty themselves at 
convenient distances, in such a way as the water which they 
may collect may be carried off to a distance, or disposed of so 
that it may not be injurious to any part of the garden. 

Those gravel walks which may have been ridged up in autunui 
should now be levelled down, and put in order for the season. 
We have advised this mode of ridging up the gravel for the 
walks in the Culinary Garden, for the greater preservation of 
them during winter, when the gravel would be liable to be in- 
jm-ed by wheeling, and such like operations that might require 
to be done in that department ; but as there will be fewer of 
these operations going on in the flower garden or pleasure 
ground ; and as the walks, while in such a state, would be un- 
sightly, and rendered unfit for use, we would not advise that 
operation to be performed in this instance. Indeed, the walks 
throughout the flower garden and pleasure ground should be 
kept equally well during the winter as during the summer. As 
the gravel is turned over, or fresh gravel added, it should be 
rolled as the process goes on, for gi'avel seldom binds so well 
after rolling, if that operation be deferred until it becomes either 
dry or exposed to rain. 



DIGGING THE FLOWER BORDERS AND SHRUBBERY. 

Every part of the flower garden and shrubbery should now 
be put into the best order. The flower borders and shrubberies 
should be finished digging if deferred so long. Previously to 
digging or pointing over these borders, all edgings, whether 
box or turf, should be neatly and evenly cut, the former with 
the box-edging shears, and the latter with the edging-iron. 
Those borders which have been dug over in autunm, or during 
the winter, should be frequently hoed and raked over to give 
the whole a more cheerful and respectable appearance. 



860 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER, 



[Mar. 



PLANTING BOX AND OTHER EDGINGS. 

Box and other edgings may be now planted or repaired when 
tlie weather is fine ; if dry, give occasional waterings until they 
have struck root. 

PLANTING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

All sorts of herbaceous plants may now be planted, either to 
fill up vacancies in the flower borders already planted, or to 
plant such as are in process of making. More attention should 
be paid to the arrangement of these plants, as far as regards 
colors, than seems to have been hitherto practised, as well as the 
keeping up a succession of these flowers for the greatest pos- 
sible length of time. The beauty of a border of gay flowers 
does not consist so much in the quantity of bloom as in the 
manner in which that bloom is disposed of, so that harmony of 
coloring may prevail throughout the whole. 

SOWING TENDER ANNUALS. 

If these were not sown as directed last month, let them now 
])e sown without delay, either in large pots plunged in a mild 
itottom heat, or in drills in fine rich light mould, as directed 

ist month. Plants now raised from seed will bloom beautifully 
ii June, July, &c., till the end of the season, and will come in 
' ?ry useful for decorating the green-house when the plants are 

It in their summer station, as well as the conservatory and 
iirawing-room, during these months. 

PRICKING OUT TENDER ANNUALS. 

Such tender annuals as were sown last month, and are now 
fit for being removed into nursing pots, should be attended to. 
Make choice of the strongest plants, which should be taken up 
oarefully out of the pots into which they have been sown, and 
^^ricked off into small pots, one plant into each, if of the size 
ailed Thumbs or Thimble pots ; or three plants may be placed 
into each, if in such as are of the size of small sixties, these to 



Mar.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



8G1 



be afterwards transplanted into larger pots as they advance in 
growth. To have these plants fine, it is necessary that they 
be grown rapidly, and great care must be taken that they do 
not receive a check in their growth, which would be apt to 
throv; them into flower at a premature state, when their flowers 
would not attain so large a size, nor yet blow so fine. Through- 
out the whole culture of tender annuals, they should be pre- 
vented from being drawn up slender, which will be the case if 
kept too far from the glass ; for this purpose nothing is so well 
adapted for their reception, after their being once potted-off', as 
a hot-bed frame of the ordinary dimensions, so that the plants 
may be allowed to enjoy plenty of light, and be near the glass, 
while their roots are plunged into a mild bottom heat. While 
in this bed they should be regularly supplied with water, and 
often sprinkled over their leaves, and air daily admitted to them. 



SOWING HALF-IIARDY ANNUALS. 

Half-hardy annuals comprehend all such as require to be 
forwarded in a mild heat, and gradually hardened till they are 
sufficiently established, and the season mild enough to admit of 
tkem being planted out in the borders of the flower garden, 
either in large patches by themselves, or singly amongst the 
other plants. To this division of annuals belong by far the 
most splendid and curious ; and as they can be cultivated in the 
open air during summer, after having attained a certain size, 
a large portion of each seed should be sown when compared 
with ♦hose under the last head. 



SOWING HARDY ANNUALS. 

Hardy annuals of all sorts may now \ye sown in tlic open 
borders, where they are to remain to flower. In sowing these, 
the dwarf ones, such as Convolvulus minor, Anagallis Indiccc, 
Mignioneitey &c., should be sown in front of the border, while 
the various varieties of lupins, larkspurs. Sec , occupy the middle, 
and sweet peas, sun-flowers, and such as are equally tall, should 
be placed nearest the back, that is, the farthest from the walk. 
They should be sown, each kind separate, in patches of ten or 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Afar. 



twelve inches in diameter ; and some kinds, such as mignionette, 
may be sown in larger patches, while sweet peas may be sown 
in lines to hide disagreeable objects, for which they are admir- 
ably calculated; and by being neatly staked up, will have a 
showy and gay appearance. 

In order to fill up vacancies, as well as to plant in such places 
that may at present be filled with bulbs or other spring flowers, 
a considerable sowing of hardy annuals should be made in the 
reserve garden (a very necessary appendage to every flower 
garden), firom Mhich a supply can be taken when wanted to 
plant in the borders ; and as many of these plants are improved 
by being transplanted, such as lupins, sun-flowers, and other 
strong growing kinds, they will be rather improved by this 
mode of culture than otherwise. A sowing of many of these 
sorts should be made towards the end of this month, and another 
in April, for the purpose of rearing plants to come in, in suc- 
cession, and to last till destroyed by the autumnal frosts. 

TRANSPLANTING ANNUALS SOWN IN AUTUMN. 

Many annuals sown in autumn are found, with a little protec- 
tion to withstand the winter, and when that is the case they 
come into flower much earlier in spring, than such as are sown 
even upon a hot bed, and they also flower much finer. Of these, 
that beautiful plant Coreopsis tinctoria is a striking example, 
although only introduced a very few years fi-om its native wilds 
in the Arkansa territory, in North America ; it is now become 
very common in our gardens. 

Plants self-sown in autumn, and either potted off into small 
jx)ts and protected in a dry airy frame during the winter, or 
pricked out into shallow boxes under the same protection, will 
be in good order at this time for finally planting out in the 
flower borders, where they will attain the height of four or five 
feet, and be covered with flowers from the ground upwards. 
Mignionette, by the same mode of culture, will also be found to 
succeed well, and will come into flower long before that which 
was sown in spring. 



Mar.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



863 



SOWING HARDY PERENNIAL AND BIENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

All kinds of hardy perennial and biennial flower seeds 
may be sown towards the middle or end of this month. 
As these plants do not flower the same season in which their 
seeds are sown, it is therefore unnecessary, at this time, to pre- 
pare a hot-bed for them ; the proper situation for them being 
the reserve garden, where a piece of rich light ground should be 
got ready for their reception by being well dug, and divided 
into beds according to the number and quantity intended to be 
sown. The ground being prepared, the seeds of each sort 
should be sown thinly and regularly, either in beds or in drills ; 
and as they are sown, let them be covered to the depth of half 
an inch and correctly labeled. 

ALPINE AND OTHER RARE PLANTS IN POTS. 

The potting of the Alpine, and other rare plants, in pots 
or frames, should now be finished ; and afl;er they are again 
sufficiently established in the pots, they should be placed out 
in their summer station. There are, however, many which 
will require the shade and close air of the frame or pit during 
summer, both for shelter and shade, particularly the latter ; of 
these are most of the natural order Orchidece, many Ferns, and 
some other families, such as Sarracenia, Drosera, &c. ; these 
should be kept in a close frame during the summer, plunged in 
a thick mass of sphagnum or other mosses, and kept damp by 
often watering them over head with a moderately fine rose 
watering pot. By far the greater portion of Alpine plants will 
succeed well in pots of the sizes called large sixties or small 
and large forty-eights, in a soil composed of one half of light 
sandy loam, and half bog or peat mould, occasionally using a 
little fine white sand or mould of decomposed leaves. During 
the summer they should be placed in a situation as little ex- 
posed to the sun as possible, but not by any means under the 
drip of trees, on a bed prepared for them of finely-sifted coal 
ashes, as already noticed. As the great object of a shaded situa- 
tion is to give them the advantage of a cool and equitable atmo- 
sphere ; this will be increased by frequent watering over head 



8G4 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



with a fine rose watering-pot ; but this can only be done with 
s^ifety, cither early in the morning or late in the afternoon. 
When such a practice renders the mould in the pots too damp, 
(a thing to be guarded against in spring and autumn, but dur- 
\na: the warm months of summer, evaporation will go on so 
rapidly, and the plants being in small pots exposed all round 
to the action of air, will not be injured by it,) water may then 
be given amongst the pots, so as to keep the bed on which they 
stand always cool and rather damp. By a similar practice we 
have been enabled to cultivate Alpine plants on an extensive 
scale, and the result has been entirely to our satisfaction. 

Alpine plants are ot\en planted out on rock-works and in 
sh ided borders. Professor Thouin arranged a bank of Alpines 
in the Paris garden, an account of which he published in the 
Annales de Musec, and a translation of which has been pub- 
lished by a celebrated English botanist in the Trans. Hort. 
Soc. The plants on this b^ulk did not succeed to expectation ; 
and daily experience shows that plants of this description never 
tlu'ive well, nor long, in beds or banks of any kind. The prac- 
tice of potting appears, therefore, to be the best mode ; and 
although attended with a little more trouble and expence, the 
lovers of these curious and interesting portions of the vegetable 
creation will be repaid by having many of Nature's smallest, 
and not less perfect treasures, in a state of perfection equal to 
their native habitats. 



FLOKISTS' FLOWERS. 

Auriculas. — The auriculas, in pots, should now be gone 
over, and all decayed leaves removed ; the surface of the mould 
in the pots loosened and partly removed, and a top-dressing of 
fresh mould given them. They should, if in a frame or auri- 
cula stage, be frequently, although moderately supplied with 
water and exposed to gentle showers ; but care must still be 
taken that they be not suffered to become too wet. Air must 
be freely and daily given them ; and when it is wished to have 
them liower strong and in full perfection, only one flower-stem 
should be allowed to each plant, all others should be rubbed 
off as they appear. Seeds of good auriculas should now be 



Mar. I THE FLOWER GARDEN. 805 

sown in a box of fine light earth, and thinly covered, as the 
seeds are apt to lie dormant or rot when sown too deep. The 
box should be placed in a warm sheltered spot, and carefully 
defended fi'om heavy rains. As the plants advance they will 
be readily conveyed fi*om one situation to another in boxes or 
large pans, until they become sufficiently strong to be per- 
manently potted off. These plants naturally, as well as the 
whole Primula family, enjoy the shade ; care must therefore 
be taken, throughout their whole culture, not to expose them for 
any length of time to the scorching rays of the sun. Auricula 
seeds will vegetate more quickly, if placed on a little bottom 
heat, but as soon as they are sufficiently above ground they 
should be removed to a warm sheltered spot in the open air, 
for, by this means, they will be forwarded a little, and in cold 
wet springs and unfavourable situations, it is necessary ; but in 
situations naturally warm, and in good seasons, they will not 
only come stronger, but a greater number of the seeds will 
vegetate, if sown in the open air or with the occasional protec- 
tion of a hand glass ; and the best sort of glass is that which 
has the top or upper part separate from the lower, as in the 
annexed figure. 




Polyanthuses^ in pots, will require the same mode of treatment 
as has been already recommended for auriculas, and seeds of 
them may also now be sown. As the common parent of the 
numerous varieties of pol anthus is a native of our sunny banks 
and warm sheltered fields, it is more hardy than its associate the 
auricula, whose common parent graces similar situations in 
Switzerland. A warm shaded border of light soil, moderately 
enriched with rotten manure, having a northern exposure, will 

5s 



S(')() TIIF. rRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mai\ 

therefore be found a suitable place for them ; or they may, in 
unfavourable situations, be sown in shallow boxes or pans^ and 
placed in a situation where they can be shaded from the raid- 
day sun. 

Carnations. — Carnations raised from layers and pipings last 
season, should now be potted off into full-sized pots, in which 
they are to perfect the flowers. These pots should be not less 
than one foot in diameter at top. The roots of this plant are 
subject to injury from excessive damp ; therefore the pots should 
be well drained for them, and a sufticient quantity of mould 
prepared for potting them. Like all other plants which come 
under the above denomination, or which have attracted the at- 
tention of the florist, many soils have been recommended ; and, 
as in most other cases, each individual estimates his prepara- 
tion as the best. 

We will subjoin the soils used by two respectable florist6, as 
they have themselves published them, and as they appear 
rational and free of that quackery which is so much practised 
in compositions for florists' flowers. 

Mr. Hogg of Paddington, notoriously known as a first-rate 
cultivator of the carnation, gives the following as his prac- 
tice : — 

" Three barrows of loam, one and a half ditto of garden 
mould, ten ditto of horse-dung, one ditto of coarse sand ; let 
these be mixed and thrown together in a heap or ridge, and 
turned two or three times in the winter, particularly in frosty 
weather, that it may be well incorporated. On a dry day to- 
wards the end of November, I take a barrow of fresh lime, 
which, as soon as it is slacked, I strew over it while hot, in 
turning the heap ; this accelerates the rotting of the fibrous 
particles in the loam, lightens the soil, and destroys the grubs, 
worms, and slugs. Lime is too well known as a manure to say 
any thing farther in its praise here. If there has been much 
rain during the winter, so that the strength of the compost is 
reduced, and the salts washed from it, 1 take about seven pounds 
of damaged salt, and add them to it, either dissolved in water 
or strewed over it with the hand. This, from an experience of 
three years, 1 have found to be attended with the most bene- 
ficial effects upon the future health and vigour of the plants. 



Mar,] 



THE FLOWJER GARDEN. 



867 



Daring Vei-y heavy rains many florists cover the compost with 
tarpauhng or double mats to prevent the nitrous particles from 
being washed out. This is also an excellent precaution. If 
any objection be started that the quantity of dung is too great 
in proportion to the loam, I ansvrer that such an objection might 
be well founded, if the compost were to be used immediately 
on its being mixed together ; but as it has to lie six months 
before it is used, 1 am decidedly of opinion that the quantity is 
not more than is necessary in order to ensure a luxuriant 
growth and generous bloom." 

Mr. Maddock, an equally successful and well-known florist, 
gives the following as his practice : — 

" One half rotten horse-dung, one year old, or that which has 
been used for a hot-bed for cucumbers, melons, &c. ; one-third 
sound loamy earth, one-sixth coarse sea or river sand. These 
ingredients are to be mixed together in autumn, laid in a heap 
about two feet thick, in an open exposure, and turned two or 
three times during winter ; or otherwise, the dung alone, after 
being used as a hot-bed, may be thrown together in a heap, in 
a conical form, in order to rot more perfectly ; and as its sur- 
face freezes in winter, it should be pared off and laid on one 
side till the whole mass has been completely frozen throughout. 
This may be repeated as often as the season permits, and it 
will be completely fit for use the following spring. The earth 
and sand may be added to it in March, when wanted to fresh 
pot the plants for bloom. The whole should be well mixed and 
incorporated, and passed through a coarse screen or sieve to 
reduce its parts and take out stones or any other extraneous 
substance which it may contain. In country places, where the 
air is more pure, experience has pointed out the propriety of 
using less dung and more loam. The proportions of which, 
for such situations, may be reversed, viz. : one-half loamy 
earth and one-third dung, with the sand as before specified. 
The preparation of the compost, in other respects, is to be ex- 
actly the same in all situations." 

The pots and mould being prepared, the plants should be 
carefully taken out of the small pots in which they have stood 
the winter, or if they have not been potted, taken carefully 
out of the bed, into which they may have been pricked out last 



868 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



season as soon as they were fully rooted and separated from 
the parent plant. Let them be now placed in the pots already 
noticed, and gently watered as soon as potted ; when a suf- 
ficient number are potted, let them be placed in an airy dry 
situation, and defended in wet weather by mats or canvas 
covers, where they will remain until taken into the green- 
house, or placed upon a flower-stand to bloom. All that will be 
now necessary in their culture till their flowers begin to open, 
or until the season of propagation arrives, will be to keep them 
regularly watered, and their flower-stems neatly supported by 
sticks to prevent them being broken. 

Those which may not be considered sufficiently valuable for 
potting, may be now planted out in the borders of the flower 
garden, where they will come into flower in good perfection ; 
and those which are considered border flowers, picotees, &c., 
should now be planted out in the borders of the flower garden, 
either singly, or in patches of three or four plants each, or they 
may be planted with good effect in beds, according to the size, 
style, &c. of the garden. 

Pinks. — The pinks propagated last year should now also be 
planted out. The fine flowering kinds are generally })lanted in 
a bed or border by themselves, and protected from heavy rains, 
winds, &c., by occasional covering with mats, canvas, &c., sup- 
])ortod by hooped rods placed over the beds. The pink, 
although also of British origin as well as the carnation, is much 
less tender and less choice in its situation and soil. Maddock, 
already mentioned, considers a soil as follows, all that is ne- 
cessary in this part to produce fine, pinks 

A good fresh loamy soil dug and comminuted about two 
feet deep, and manured with a stratum of cow-dung two years 
old, mixed with an equal proportion of earth." This stratum 
to be about six inches thick, and placed about five or six in- 
ches below the surface. 

PLANTING RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONIES. 

The planting of these roots should now be finished as early 
in the month as possible ; and if the ground be dry, let them be 
occasionally supplied with water in a moderate degree. 



Man] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



869 



HYACINTHS. 

The hyacinths in beds or patches in the borders, will now, 
if the weather has been mild, begin to make their appearance. 
Those which are in beds, and may be considered fine, should 
be protected from occasional frosts, and also from too much 
rain. As the shoots advance, let them be neatly supported 
with sticks, as they are apt to be broken if left unsupported, 
the flower-spikes, if large and double, being heavy. They 
should also be protected from accidental injury, by being 
hooped over in a neat and secure manner, and occasionally 
covered with canvas, or Dutch reed, or garden-mats. 

PROPAGATING VARIOUS KINDS OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS FOR 
PLANTING OUT IN THE FLOWER BORDERS. 

Many kinds of exotics are of rapid growth, and produce 
their flowers in a state of greater perfection when planted out 
during summer into the borders of the flower garden, than if 
confined within the narrow limits of flower pots. Of these 
may be enumerated the Senlcio elegans, which sometimes 
comes double from seeds, but is most generally propagated by 
cuttings ; Salvia splendens, a plant of unusual splendour, 
introduced in 1823, from the Brazils; Salvia Mexicana, a 
species of the same family, and affording a beautiful contrast 
in its blue flowers with the bright scarlet flowers of Salvia 
splendens ; HeUotropium Peruviamim, a plant of considerable 
beauty and great fragrance ; many species and varieties of 
Pelargonium, particularly those with scarlet flowers ; and of 
that numerous and interesting genus Mesembryanthemum, 

There are many species of the latter which flower profusely 
during summer, when planted out in light sandy soils fully ex- 
posed to the sun, or upon rock-work, where they will continue 
to flower till destroyed by the frosts. Ilememris urticifolia 
and //. coccinia, are plants well suited for similar purposes. 
Cuttings of all these should now be put in, and forwarded 
with all possible speed, so that they may be fit for planting 
out in the open borders by the middle of May. Where cir- 
cumstances will admit of it, it is a good practice to strike a 



870 



THE I*RACT1CAL GARDENER. 



Mar. 



number of these and similar })lants in autumn. With httle 
attention during winter, they will be fit to pot off in March, 
and if placed afterwards in close frames, with a sliprlit heat, 
will attain greater i^erfection by the season of planting out. 

i^ischias, Hydrangeas, and some other exotics, should l>e 
annually propagated in quantities for this purpose, but these 
seldom flower so well till tlie second year of their growth ; 
whereas the former kinds produce their finest flowers the first 
season when properly treated. 



PLANTING FERRARIAS. 

The Fcrraria pavonia is a plant of great beauty and of 
easy culture, and would be one of the greatest ornaments of 
our gardens, were the flowers less fugacious, their duration 
being only for a few hours. This apparent defect is amply 
remedied by planting them in masses, where a succession of 
flowers will be produced for a considerable lime. The bulbs 
of this plant should be potted in small pots in February or 
March, and placed in a close frame, where they should con- 
tinue until they be fit to plant out, which will be by the middle 
of May. They can then be readily turned out of the pots 
with the balls entire, and will produce their flowers in July, 
August, and September. As the plants advance in growth, 
they should be supported with neat sticks, as they arc liable 
to be broken when exposed to rain and winds. At the natural 
season when the bulbs are ripe, which, as in the case of all 
bulbous plants, will be indicated by the decay of the leaves, 
they should be taken up, and kept in a dry place till their 
season of planting arrives. A correspondent in the Hort. 
Trans., recommends that a portion of the mould in which 
they grow, should be allowed to adhere to them, which will 
prevent their being too much dried up, while in an inactive 
state. The same end may be attained by packing them in 
boxes of sand. They increase rapidly by offsets, and may be 
purchased from the London nurserymen at five pounds per 
hundred. 



MarJ] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



ON THE CULTIVATION OF CORIOPSIS TINCTORIA AND SIMILAR 

ANNUALS. 

There are many annuals which may be brought into flower 
much earher in the season, and be much improved in size 
and the perfection of their flowers, by being sown in the 
latter end of summer, and protected during winter under 
frames, &c. ; of this sort is the Coriopsis tijictoria, lately 
introduced into this country, and now cultivated in almost 
every garden. The whole of the varieties of Cheiranthiis 
annus, or ten-week stocks, Viola tricolor, with its endless 
varieties ; Iberis wnhellata, Lathyrus adorata, Delphinium 
ajacis, Ccntauria cyanus, and many others ; where these have 
stood the winter, towards the end of this month, or beginning 
of the next, they should be planted out where they are to 
remain in the flower borders. The ten-week stocks and 
Coriopsis will be considerably forwarded and improved, if 
potted into small pots, and kept under the shelter of a frame 
until they have attained the height of five or six inches, and 
until the weather has become somewhat mild. 



PROPAGATING VARIOUS DOUBLE FLOWERS. 

Double flowers are the pride of the florist, but are regarded 
by the botanist as vegetable monsters, produced by luxuriance 
of nourishment. Many of them have long been esteemed 
flower garden plants, and as the chance of producing them 
from seeds is so uncertain, the gardener has recourse to a 
prolongation of the plants by cuttings to increase or continue 
his stock. 

Most herbaceous plants, with double flowers, are readily 
propagated by cuttings, whether they be annuals, biennials, 
or perennials, and the season of propagating them by such 
is in spring before the flower-stalks are too far advanced, and 
in autumn before the flowers are beginning to fade. Some, 
however, are not so readily propagated as others, of this the 
double rocket, Hesperis matronalis, furnishes an example. 
Of this plant there are two varieties, differing in the color of 
their flowers, the one being white, and the other purple. 



872 



Tin;: PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



The most rational directions for its cultivation which we have 
met with, appears in a communication to the Cal. Hort. Soc, by 
Mr. D. Robertson, of which the following is the chief detiiil : 
" After the flower is beginning to fade, cut down the stalks, 
and cut them into ordinary lengths of cuttings. Next cut ofi 
the leaves and smooth the ends, then make three slits with a 
knife in the bark or rind longitudinally, so as to separate or raise 
the bark for half an inch in lenofth. When the cuttin<T is in- 
serted in the ground, tlie loose bark naturally curls up, and 
it is from this bark that the young roots proceed. The partial 
separation and the turning up of the bark seem to promote a 
tendency to throw out roots. The cuttings may be put into 
flower-pots, for the more readily protecting them during winter, 
or they may be planted in the natural earth, provided that it 
be light and fresh. Covering them with a hand-glass will 
forward their rooting, and placing them on a slight hot-bed 
will forward their growth considerably. By this method, 
stock-julyflowers and double wall-flowers may also be readily 
j)ropagated." 

Annual plants, to a certain extent, may be pro}>tigated on 
the same principle, and their existence prolonged for several 
years ; by a somewhat similar process, double carnations, 
pinks, &c., have been long propagated, as well as by laying. 
There are, however, some double flowers which are not ca- 
pable of being increased this way ; of such are those with 
bulbous and tuberous roots, but as they increase so readily 
by those means, this circumstance is less to be regretted. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



87S 



APRIL. 



PLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The planting of all deciduous trees and shrubs should be 
finished the first or second week in the month. In early sea- 
sons, this operation should be finished in March, unless the 
trees intended to be planted have been taken up and laid in 
by the heels, which will check their gi'owth sufficiently to 
warrant their being finally planted out at this time. 

PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 

This month and August are the two seasons in which 
these shrubs are found generally to succeed best after plant- 
ing. The reason assigned by planters why these seasons are 
more suitable than any other is, that if they be planted early 
in spring, or during winter, they lie dormant till this time, 
and while in that state, their best and tenderest fibrous roots 
are injured, and not unfrequently perish. They are also ex- 
posed to injury while in the act of removal, by having their 
tender roots injured by frost, or cold cutting winds, to which 
their roots are more liable than those of deciduous trees or 
shrubs. By planting them at this season, they are less liable 
to these evils ; besides, at this time evergreens are begin- 
ning to push out into shoots, which is always the most rea- 
sonable time for transplanting any tree, although, as stated 
above, deciduous trees are less sensibly affected by transplant- 
ing than such as are evergreen. Add to this, that about the 
end of April and the beginning of May, we have frequently 
warm showers, which, to shrubs of this description, are ex- 
tremely beneficial, and are always much better for vegetation 
than water, however well it may be artificially applied. The 
reasons assigned for planting in August or September arc, 
that they have made their shoots, and, if carefully done, w ill 
make fresh roots, and become tolerably established before 

5 T 



S74 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Mid- 



winter. At that season we have often genial showers, which 
to them is of the utmost importance. Experience proves 
tliese seasons to be the best for transplanting these plants ; 
and upon an extensive scale, and in exposed situations, we 
would advise the adoption of it. At the same time, circum- 
stances may warrant their removal at almost any day in the 
year. Evergreens are extremely fond of shelter and shade, 
and it is probably the want of these that is the principal cause 
of the failure of these plants, when removed at seasons when 
there is a long continuance of cutting winds without any rain. 
In our practice at Stratton Park we planted fifty thousand 
evergreens in one season, beginning in November and ending 
in February ; the soil for the most part was of a strong clayey 
nature, and by no means favorable for plants in general, still 
tiie success here was complete, inasmuch as out of that num- 
ber not two hundred plants died. Most of the plants were 
brought a distance of twenty miles, and were from two to 
three feet high. We attribute the success in this instance to 
the shade which the plants enjoyed in summer, and the shelter 
during the first winter after planting ; as they were planted 
])artly in very old plantations and partly in young ones, in 
both cases well sheltered and shaded. Evergreens, particu- 
larly laurels, may be removed for particular purposes at almost 
any day in the year, provided that they are taken up with 
good balls, and shaded, sheltered, and frequently supplied 
with water over the head as well as at the roots. Evergreens, 
as well as deciduous trees, of any reasonable size, may be 
removed, by being carefully taken up with good balls, and 
immediately planted on the spot in strong baskets. In this 
way they may bo sent to a great distance with safety. In 
planting them, the pit should be made sufficiently capacious 
to hold the ball still inclosed in the basket, the materials of 
which it is composed will soon decay, and instead of pre- 
venting the escape of the roots will considerably tend to their 
nourishment, as in a few months they will be converted into 
vegetable mould. It not unfrequently happens, that fine spe- 
cimens? of evergreens, as well as deciduous shrubs, may be 
wanted for particular j)urposes, and at seasons when it might 
not be convenient to remove them in the ordinary way. To 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



875 



meet such demands, it is well to have a stock of such plants 
as are peculiarly interesting either in their flowers or general 
habits in a portable state. At this season, therefore, ever- 
greens for this purpose should be potted into large pots, and 
those of greater sizes planted into sti'ong rough boxes, and 
plunged in the reserve-garden, or any convenient part of the 
shrubbery. When they are wanted, they can be taken uj) 
and plunged in such situations as their presence will decorate ; 
and if neatly plunged, will appear as if planted for years. It 
is impossible to urge sufficiently the necessity of having plants 
in a portable state, so much being capable of being done by 
adopting that method. A few fine specimens of plants, ca- 
pable of being removed at pleasure, will afford sufficient op- 
portunity of changing the character of a considerable sized 
garden as often as the proprietor chooses. 

The species of evergreens which are best calculated for 
removal at unusual seasons, are the common and Portugal 
laurel, Aucuba, evergreen privit. Rhododendron, Daphne, 
hollies, yew, and laurestinus. The success of all planting 
depends a good deal upon the length of time the plants are 
out of the earth, and no doubt often on the size of the plant. 
For extensive plantations, or large shrubberies, the plants 
should be rather small than otherwise ; but for smaller plan- 
tations, and where immediate effect is required, evergreen 
trees and shrubs of considerable size may be made use of, and 
if properly taken up, planted, and frequently watered during 
the first season after planting, their success will be complete. 



PLANTING BOX EDGINGS. 

This is a good time for making new plantations of box 
edgings, or for repairing such as may be in want of it. The 
plants will succeed almost equally well whether rooted or put 
in as cuttings, by splitting the old plants into small pieces, 
and planting them about two inches apart with a dibble. 
Rooted plants should be laid, and not dibbled, in order that 
the roots may be properly placed in the ground. 



876 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Apr. 



CUTTING BOX EDGINGS. 

Box edgings should now be cut where they require it, as 
all danger from frost will now be past, and the edgings may 
be i)ut in proper order before the borders and walks are dressed 
up for the summer. In cutting these edgings, they should be 
done as neatly as possible, and be of an equal height and 
breadth throughout, and should not be allowed to exceed 
three inches in height and two in breadth at bottom, tapering 
upwards to a point. Nothing looks worse than misshapen 
box edging, particularly when allowed to attain a large size. 
The only real use of an edging of any kind is to separate the 
gravel of the walk from the mould in the border, and an 
edging of the above dimensions is sufficient for that purpose ; 
larger ones only harbour vermin, and give the garden a neg- 
lected and careless appearance. 

GRAVEL WALKS. 

Gravel walks will now require to be regularly hoed, raked, 
weeded, and rolled, and kept in a neat and orderly manner 
during the sununer. 

GRASS WALKS AND LAWNS. 

Grass walks and lawns will require to be regularly swept, 
rolled, and mown, from this time till November. 

SOWING HARDY ANNUALS. 

Annuals of this description may still be sown in the flower 
garden borders, where they are to remain to flower; and a 
few may be sown in the reserve garden, to be transplanted in 
May and June, to fill up vacancies where they occur. 

SOWING TENDER ANNUALS. 

Tender annuals should be sown again this month to suc- 
ceed those which were sown last month ; about the middle of 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



877 



the month will be a good time : however, if this were neg- 
lected to be done last month, let it now be done without delay. 
Those which were sown last month, or earlier in the season, 
will require to be forwarded by being pricked out, and after- 
wards shifted into larger pots as they advance, and a regular 
brisk heat kept up, either by renewing the linings or making 
up fresh hot-beds for them, so that they may sustain no check 
in their growth. It is a rule, which should never be lost sight 
of, that, in the growing of tender annuals, particularly such 
as balsams, cockscombs, and globe amaranthus, the nearer 
the plants are kept to the glass the better ; by which means 
they will not become drawn up weak and flower in a pre- 
mature state. While the plants are in this state, let them 
have moderate supplies of water, with the chill taken off, as 
often as they may require it, all over-head, and let air be ad- 
mitted daily, in such quantities as the state of the weather 
will permit. As the plants advance in height, so as to touch 
the glass, let the frames be lifted up a few jnches at a time ; 
and this practice should be followed as often as they may re- 
quire it. The soil in which tender annuals should be grown, 
should be as rich and light as possible ; indeed, balsams and 
some others are brought to their greatest perfection in entirely 
rotten dung; good light mould, enriched with rotten dung, 
and frequently watered with liquid manure, will bring these 
plants to great perfection, if they be allowed sufficient pot- 
room, and regularly shifted. 



SOWING AND PRICKING OUT HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. 

Many half-hardy annuals may still be sown upon a slight 
hot-bed, and many of such as were sown last month may now, 
if the weather be mild, be planted out in the borders of the 
flower garden ; the more tender sorts may be pricked out in a 
nursing-bed, covered with a frame and glasses. They will 
attain a good size, and be fit for final planting out by the end 
of the month or the beginning of May. The more tender 
kinds of these plants should be, when fit, pricked out singly 
into small pots, and kept in a little bottom-heat till the end 
of the month, when they may be planted out with safety : of 



878 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. ['^pf 

tlicse are palnia-christi, tobacco ; zinnia, several species ; In- 
dian corn, gourds, and some otbers. 

florists' flowers. RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONIES. 

The more valuable varieties of ranunculuses and anemonies 
will now be coming into bloom, and, if planted in beds, can 
be readily protected from the cflects of cold cutting winds and 
frosts, which would be liable to injure them materially, by 
covering them with hoops and canvas. This covering should 
also be permitted to remain on them during the hours of 
strong sun-shine; whicli, if not prevented, would, after they 
come into flower, tend in a short time to bring on decay in 
the llovvers. But, if they be screened from all these occa- 
sionally, it will not only preserve the beauty of their flowers, 
b U will continue thcni longer in bloom. 

• HYACINTHS. 

Hyacinths in beds will now be coming into perfection ; the 
flower-stalks should be neatly supported with small sticks, to 
j)revent their heavy heads of flowers from being broken. They 
will also require to be protected, as already directed for ranun- 
culuses and anemonies. 

( RITFJIION OF A FINE DOL liLE HYACINTH. 

Florists, by common consent, have established amongst 
themselves certain pro{)erties of which particular flowers should 
be possessed, with the view of rendering them select. The 
properties of a fine double hyacinth should, according to their 
criticism, Imve the stem tall, strong, and erect, supporting a 
number of large bells or distinct corollas^ each bell supported 
by a short and strong foot-stalk, standing in a horizontal po- 
sition, so that the whole may have a compact pyramidal form 
with the crown or uppermost flower, and be perfectly erect. 
Each separate flower should l)e large, and completely double ; 
that is, well filled with broad bold j)etals, appearing to the 
eye rather convex than flat or hollow. The flowers should 



THfi FLOWER GARDEN. 



879 



occupy about onc-lialf of tlie length of the stem. The colors 
should be clear and bright, of whatever colour they may be ; 
those which are pf a strong bright colour are preferred. 

TULIPS. 

These will also now be coming into flower, and they should 
be supported, as they advance, with small neat sticks, and 
covered both from the bad effects of frost, heavy rains, winds, 
ike, as well as from the noon-day's sun, which, if allowed to 
shine upon them for any length of time, would tend considerably 
to destroy the color and hasten the decay of the flower. 

CRITERION OF A FINE VARIEGATED LATE TULIP. 

Florists have agreed that a fine late tulip should have the 
stem strong, elastic, and erect, about thirty inches high above 
the surface of the bed. The flower should be large, consist- 
ing of six petals, which should proceed at first a little hori- 
zontally, and then turn upwards, forming almost a perfect cup, 
with a round bottom, rather widest at the top. The three 
outside petals should be rather larger than the three inside 
ones, and broader at their base. The petals should not be 
notched nor serrated, but perfectly entire at their edges. 
The top of each petal should be broad and well rounded. 
The ground color of the flower at the bottom should be clear 
yellow or white, and the rich colored stripes, which are the 
principal ornament of a fine tulip, should be regular, bold, 
and distinct on the margin, and terminate in finely-broken 
points, elegantly feathered or pencilled. The centre of each 
petal should contain one or more bold blotches or stripes, in- 
termixed with small portions of the original color, abruptly 
broken into many irregular obtuse points. It is the opinion 
of some florists, that the central stripes or blotches do not 
add to the beauty or elegance of the tulip, unless confined to 
a narrow stripe exactly down the centre, and that they should 
be perfectly free from any remains of the original color. 
Such flowers appear very beautiful and delicate, especially 
where they have a regular narrow feathering at the edge ; but 



880 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the greatest connoisseurs agree that it denotes the greatest 
merit where the tuhp abounds with rich coloring, distributed 
in a distinct and regular manner throughout the flower, except 
at the bottom of the cup, where it should be a clear bright 
white or yellow, free from stain or tinge. 

AURICULAS. 

Auriculas will now be coming into bloom, and will require 
particular attention, that they may not be injured by dashing 
rains or cutting winds ; for this purpose, they should be pro- 
tected in frames, and covered with glasses occasionally, and 
placed so that they may be the least exposed to the rays of 
the sun ; or, if such a situation be not to be conveniently met 
with, they may be shaded with mats or canvas, from eight or 
nine in the morning till three or four in the afternoon, in sunny 
days, and at all times carefully protected from much wet, as 
the farinaceous matter upon the petals, which adds so much to 
the beauty of these flowers, will be much injured, if not entirely 
washed off, by rain. They will require to be carefully sup- 
plied with water at their roots during the period of their 
flowering, but not over-head, i\)Y the reason above stated. 
Those who are high in the fancy of this flower, have stages 
made on purpose for them, and so constructed, that the 
plants are at the same time pr(>to . ted from rniris, wind, and 
too much sun-shine. 

CRITERION OF A FINE AURICULA. 

An auricula, to be of the first rank in the estimation of the 
florist, should have the flower-stem sufficiently tall to elevate 
the truss of bloom a little above the foliage, so that it may be 
seen to greater advantage ; it should, at the same time, be 
clastic, upright, and strong. The foot-stalks of the flowers 
should be also strong, elastic, and of a length corresponding 
to the number aiul size of the pips, which should not be less 
than seven in number. The pip is composed of the tub, with 
its anthers and ,sf(n?ic/is, the eye, and the outer circle, con- 
taining the ground color, with its edge or margin. These 



THE FLOWER GAUDFN. 



881 



three should be all well proportioned, which will be the case 
if the diameter of the tub be one part, the eye three parts, 
and the whole pip six, or nearly so. Amateurs say that the 
pips should be round, but as this seldom happens, they con- 
tent themselves when they nearly exhibit that figure. The 
summits of the stameiis ought to be large, bold, and fill the 
tub well ; the latter should terminate rather above the eye, 
which should be smooth, round, and without cracks, of a fine 
white colour, and distinct from the ground colour : this should 
be equal on every side of the eye, whether it be in one uniform 
circle, or in bright patches, and should be bold and rich, 
perfectly distinct at the eye, and broken only at the outAvard 
part of the edging- A dark or black purple, or bright coffee 
colour, contrasts best with the eye ; a bright pink or rich blue 
is pleasing ; but that which would be most desirable, in this 
point, would be a glowing scarlet or deep crimson, if edged 
with bright green ; but this they seldom expect. The prin- 
cipal cause of the variegation in this flower is the green margin, 
and, in proportion to the size of the ground colour, it should 
be about one-half. The dark grounds of these flowers are 
for the most part covered, less or more, with a white mealy 
or farinaceous powder, which florists consider as a natural 
provision to protect the flowers from the scorching effects of 
the rays of the sun ; white, of all colours, being the greatest 
non-conductor of heat. 



CARNATIONS. 

Carnations potted last month, should be supplied \\'x]\ 
water as they may require, and tlie pots kept clear of wc:ds. 
The plants should also be protected from heavy ra' s and 
cold cutting winds, by being occasionally covered wiJi canvas 
supported on hoops, or kept in frames, and in bad weather 
covered with lights. If the pots be plunged in ashes, or de- 
cayed tanner's bark, the plants will require less water, as 
evaporation will proceed less rapidly than if the pots stood 
exposed on all sides 



5u 



S82 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



PROPAGATING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

Herbaceous plants may now be propagated by being divided 
at the roots ; indeed, at this time, this is necessary, to a cer- 
tain extent, to all of these plants. If they be left undivided, 
or not otherwise reduced in size, they will transgress the bounds 
prescribed for iIkmh, and some rapid growing sorts will over- 
run some of those that are of less rapid growth. Plants of 
this description, like all other plants, exhaust the soil upon 
which they grow, and in time, the spot where the plant was 
oriijinally planted, will cease to support it. As they decay in 
the centre, they will extend themselves in circumference, and 
become unsightly, and will not produce their flowers so fine, 
nor yet in such abundance, as if frequently transplanted. In 
dig^nng and dressing the flower borders, this should be at- 
tended to ; and, as the operation proceeds, the plants shoula 
be reduced to a moderate size, and the j)arts taken ofl', planted 
out either in the reserve garden, or to fill up any vacancies in 
the borders, or to extend them if desired. Where they may 
not be wanted for any of these purposes, they should be 
])lanted out in the woods in favorable situations, so as to be 
seen from the walks or drives ; and when established there, 
cannot fail to produce a pleasing eflfect, which is produced at 
a trifling expense. 

PLANTING DAHLIAS. 

towards the middle of the month, dahlia roots may be 
planted in the flower garden borders, where they are to remain 
to perfect their flowers. As the varieties, and consequently 
the colours of these plants are now numerous, some taste is 
necessary in the arrangement of them at planting, so that a 
pleasing harmony of colours may be produced. Some culti- 
vators plant them in rows by the side of walks or borders, and 
this is probably the best method when a collection is i)lante(l 
for the purpose of proving the varieties ; and it will have ar» 
interesting eflect when in l)loom, provided the colours fbflow 
each other in tasteful gradation. But to produce a general 
effect, they should either be planted promiscuously tlirough 



Apr,] THE FLOWER GARDEN. 883 

the flower garden singly, or in gi'oups, in number and size 
proportionate to the magnitude of the garden. In either case, 
attention should be paid to a proper mixture of colours. Mr. 
Sabine, in Hort. Trans, says, " Dahlias look best in a large 
mass, unmixed with other plants. In this plan of growing 
them, some nicety is required in the due distribution of the 
sorts, so as to have a proper and good mixture of colours ; 
and particular care is necessary to keep the tallest plants 
either in the centre or at the back of the clump, accordingly as 
it is designed to be viewed from one side only, or on all sides, 
and to place the whole so that there shall be no unevenness 
in the general shape of the entire mass, arising from the irre- 
gular arrangement of the individual plants according to their 
respective heights. The roots should be planted about three 
feet from each other every way. This distance will keep each 
sufficiently distinct, and yet so united, that the whole clump 
will have the appearance of an unbroken wood or forest of 
dahlias." He also admits that they may be planted in lines by 
the sides of walks, for the purpose of forming avenues with a 
good effect. 

Dahlias are impatient of much cold, and the first frosts of 
autumn destroy them for a season, often while in their prime, 
being natives of Mexico, whence they were introduced into 
Europe in 1789. The first plants which were introduced 
were lost, and in 1804 they were a second time imported by 
Lady Holland, and first cultivated in her ladyship's garden at 
Kensington. To obviate this, or rather to elongate their pe- 
riod of flowering, has occupied the attention of gardeners for 
some years. No doubt, soil and situation are favorable in 
some instances, and their season of blooming will be from the 
beginning of June till November ; but by far the more ge- 
neral time of their flowering does not begin before the end of 
July, and often the middle of August. 

Cultivators have justly endeavoured to bring them into flower 
at as early a period as possible ; and this being once attained, 
they will continue to flower till destroyed by the frost. For 
this purpose, they plant the roots in large pots in March and 
April, and place them in any hot-house at work, on the floor, 
paths, or indeed almost in any situation of it. When the 



881 



Tin: ruACTicAL gardener. 



[Apr. 



plants have attained the heiglit of nine or twelve inches, which 
will soon he the case, they are placed in a colder situation, 
and so gradually hardened, that by the end of April or the 
beginning of May, they are fit to plant out, where they are 
to remain to flower. 

At this planting out, they are carefully turned out of the 
pots, without disturbing their roots but as little as possible, and 
planted into the natural ground. 

Dahlias will grow and prosper well in almost any soil, al- 
though a light sandy loam or soft sandy soil that is not rich, 
will produce the most handsome plants. In strong rich soils 
they are apt to grow too rambling and gross, and in such cases 
produce fewer flowers, and such flowers are much later in the 
season of appearing. 

It is desirable to have the plants small, and to effect this, 
some cultivators have succeeded by growing them in large 
pots, boxes, and tubs ; others, to effect the same end, have 
beaten the ground, while moist, round where the roots are 
planted, so as to render it as solid as possible, and impe- 
netrable to the roots ; others have adopted a species of train- 
ing, which they commence when the plants are about two 
feet high, by bending the shoots down to within three inches 
of the ground, where they are held by hooked pegs ; and as 
they advance in growth they are pegged down, so that when 
in flower they may be of any height required. This is only 
practicable where they are grown in clumps or masses, and 
the shoots so managed that the bare stems may be covered as 
much as possible. 

As the shoots of such as are allowed to grow upright ad- 
vance, they should be carefully and regularly supported with 
neat sticks, and fastened to them as they advance ; for their 
gi'owth being rapid, and their whole frame tender, are liable 
to be broken by wind, heavy rains, and many other accidents. 



PROPAGATING DAHLIAS. 

We may attribute the great variety of these plants, as well 
as their appearing in almost every cottage garden, as much to 
the facility of their propagation as to the real merits of their 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



885 



flowers. Few plants are more readily propagated, by al- 
most every mode, than the dahlia. By seeds they are in- 
creased, both in number and variety, with the greatest ease. 
The seeds ripen with us in most seasons ; each flower pro- 
ducing, as is the case with most plants of the class Si/ngenesia, 
a number of perfect seeds. 

The seeds are collected in September, by which time, in 
most seasons, many of them will be ripe. The preference 
should be given to seeds from dwarf plants, where the object 
is not to have varieties of the taller sorts ; and seeds from 
semi-double flowers are more likely to produce double varieties 
than those of single ones. Opinions have been offered, that 
seeds from such florets of the disc which may have altered their 
form, may be more apt to produce double flowers, than such 
as may have retained their original form. 

The seeds should be sown by the first of April upon a 
slight hot-bed, and when up, and sufficiently strong, potted 
into small pots, where they should remain in a gentle heat 
' till the first of May, when they may be gradually hardened by 
exposure, to be fit for planting out in the open ground by 
the end of that month, where many of them will produce their 
flowers the same season. Those which may then be judged 
of sufficient merit, may be taken up in autumn, and the less 
valuable thrown away. 

By cuttings of the young shoots, dahlias may be propagated 
freely, and by this means produce tubers and flowers the 
same year. By dividing the roots, they may also be propa- 
gated; and this operation will be safest performed after the 
roots have been potted and in a brisk heat for a few days. 
When vegetation becomes excited, the rudiments of the young 
shoots will be observed bursting through the crown of the 
roots ; at such time, with a knife, divide the roots into as many 
parts as convenient, without injuring the tubers ; each piece 
having a bud or young shoot springing from its crown, will 
be a perfect plant, and may be either repotted or planted out 
in the open ground. 

B?/ grafihig : dahlias may be propagated by this operation 
as well as most strong-growing herbaceous plants having solid 
stems; although this species of propagation be new with us, 



886 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



it has boon long practised on the continent. The operation 
is thus detailed by a correspondent in the Hort. Trans. : — 
The cutting intended for the graft should be strong and 
short-jointed, having on it two or more joints or buds. It 
must also be procured as soon in the season as possible ; 
when obtained, select a good tuber of a single sort, taking 
especial care that it has no eyes : with a sharp knife, (for a 
dull edge would mangle the fleshy root, make it jagged, and so 
prevent a complete adhesion,) cut off a slice from the upper 
part of the root, making at the bottom of the part so cut a 
a ledf^e whereon to rest the jj-raft. This is recommended be- 
cause you cannot tongue the graft as you do a wood-shoot, 
and the ledge is useful in keeping the cutting fixed in its place 
while you tie it. Next cut the scion sloping, to fit, and cut 
it so that a joint may be at the bottom of it to rest on the 
aforesaid ledge : a union may be effected without the ledge, 
providing the graft can be well fixed to the tuber, but the 
work will not then be so neat. It is of advantage, although 
not absolutely necessary, that a joint should be at the bottom 
of a scion, for the scion will occasionally put forth new roots 
from that lower joint : the stem is formed from the upper 
joint. I thercrore," he adds, " procure the cuttings with the 
two lower joints as near together as possible. After the graft 
has been tied, a piece of fine clay, such as is used for common 
grafting, must be placed round it; then pot the root in fine 
mould, in a pot of such a size as will bury the graft half-way 
in the mould ; place the pot on a little heat in front of a cu- 
cumber or melon-bed. A striking-glass may be placed over 
the whole, or not, with little difference of etfect. In about 
three weeks, the root should be shifted into a larger pot, if it 
be too soon to plant it in the border, which will probably be 
the case ; for, supposing the work was begun in March, the 
plant cannot go out till the end of May, so that the shifting 
will be essential to promote its growth till the proper season 
of planting out arrive." 

PLANTING OUT CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

The different varieties of Chrysanthemum Indicmn, since 
their general introduction into our flower gardens, have added 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



887 



a degree of splendor to that department, and that at a season 
when few other plants are in flower. They are highly prized by 
the Chinese, who are supposed to be in possession of upwards of 
fifty varieties of this plant. To the Horticultural Society we are 
principally indebted for many of the most splendid varieties 
with which our gardens are decorated. This plant early at- 
tracted the notice of that society, who have spared no trouble 
to bring together nearly forty pretty distinct varieties. The 
facility with which it is propagated, and being a plant almost 
sufficiently hardy to stand our winters with little protection, 
renders it the more valuable, as every one who is in possession 
of a small garden may indulge in the cultivation of it. At this 
time, plants originated from cuttings the preceding season 
should be shifted into larger pots, preparatory to their being 
placed in their summer situation ; and such plants as may be of 
greater age should be also shifted at this time. The superabun- 
dant plants, or the earlier flowering kinds, may now be planted 
out in the open ground ; many of them in favorable situations 
will flower in the open borders, and most of the varieties will 
flower, if trained to a southern wall. In such a way they 
have a handsome appearance, and in this way they have been 
successfully cultivated in the Chiswick garden. Where the 
intention is to reserve them for the green-house, conservatory, 
or drawing-room, in the months of November and December, 
when few other plants are in flower, they should now, when 
shifted, be plunged in finely-sifted coal-ashes in a warm and 
dry situation, where, during summer, they will only require to 
be neatly supported with sticks, accordingly as they extend in 
size, and be liberally supplied with water at their roots. Their 
flower-buds will here form in October, when they should be 
taken into a green-house, or other similar shelter, before the 
evenings become frosty, where they will perfect their flowers, 
so as to be fit to be removed to decorate the conservatory or 
drawing-room. By this mode of culture the plants will be- 
come large, and although profusely covered with flowers, may 
not be so convenient for the latter purpose, as if they were 
smaller. Cultivators, therefore, vary their modes of growing 
them, to suit the purpose for which they may be intended ; 
and as this plant is of docile habits and rapid growth, a va- 
riety of ways have been tried to produce bloom upon snmll 



888 Tin: iMrvtTicAL gaudener. U^pf' 

plants. The Chinese, who are particularly fond of this plant, 
manage to flower them in a much smaller state, and in smaller 
pots than we are in the hahit of seeing them. To attain this, 
they propagate them from cuttings, which they take off in May, 
and when rooted, pot them into small pots, in which they 
flower the following autumn. By this method, they manage 
to produce plants clothed with foliage, from the pot up to the 
flowers, which they have of a large size, hy not allowing more 
than from three to five to remain on each plant. In this, and 
a liheral application of li(iuid manure, consist the whole of 
their culture. 

We have observed in some of the London nurseries, a plan 
adopted which has the result of producing neat little plants 
with plenty of bloom, which in itself is as simple and com- 
plete as that of the Chinese ; but the plants are not all so 
handsome as those by the preceding method. For this pur- 
pose, the plants are plunged out in the open borders where 
they are fully exposed to the sun, and continue to grow till 
the betjinning of September, when the shoots that have shown 
flower-buds are bent down, and laid in the common manner 
into pots, of the sizes called large sixties or small forty-eights, 
where in a short time the shoots send out roots at the part 
laid in the small pots; and when these roots are sutticiently 
formed to support the young }>lant, they are disengaged from 
the parent, and after being tied up and cleaned, are removed 
into frames or pits, where they are shaded for a few days, and 
attended to with water, &c. They soon establish themselves, 
and perfect their flowers, when they are removed into the 
green-house or drawing-room. Such plants are from a foot 
to eighteen inches high, and produce from four to six fully 
perfected flowers. The buds which have naturally been formed 
are not all allowed to remain on, but, like the Chinese gar- 
deners, they take them off', leaving only three, four, five, or 
six, accordingly as the plant may have rooted. 

Liquid manure is given occasionally, to enable the plant to 
perfect fully its flowers. 

Chrysanthemums planted out in the open borders, do not 
require to be ever taken up, unless the soil and situation be 
damp and uncongenial ; and, in such cases, it is better to pro- 
pagate annually by cuttings, for stock for future use, than to 



Apr.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



f 

889 



hazard their surviving the winter. In dry and favorable situ- 
ations the hardier sorts will stand our ordinary winters, with a 
slight covering of dry litter, coal-ashes, or such like, placed 
over them in the beginning of Decegiber, and removed by the 
beginning of March. 

Chrysanthemums do not readily come into flower by arti- 
ficial means, like many other plants, neither do they withstand 
any degree of frost. The only means, therefore, we have of 
prolonging their season of flowering, is by protecting them 
under glass. They will, if kept free of damp, continue to 
flower till Christmas. Neither do they perfect seeds with us, 
otherwise their varieties would soon become as numerous as 
that of the dahlia, and other popular flowers. 



PLANTING LOBELIAS. 

The whole family of Lobelia are peculiarly interesting, 
although the majority of them are plants of humble growth. 
The species most generally cultivated as flower garden plants 
are L. cardinalis, L. fulgens, L, splendens, and L. siphi- 
litica. The first of these has long been an esteemed flower 
in our gardens ; the second and third species are of modern 
introduction, but the splendor of their flowers has entitled 
them to a place in almost every garden; the last species is 
rather an old inhabitant of our gardens, and differs from 
the others in having blue flowers. The whole family are very 
readily propagated either by seeds, suckers, or cuttings. 
The seeds should be sown in pots soon after they are ripe, 
and as they are very minute, should not be covered with mould. 
The mould in which all the species, particularly the kinds 
above-mentioned, succeed best, is peat or bog-mould. Before 
the seeds vegetate, and while the plants are young, they re- 
quire to be kept moderately damp ; but after the plants have 
attained a considerable size, they cannot then be over-watered. 
Indeed, they may be grown on the margin of a pond or river 
to great perfection; and in such situations, when immersed 
under water, they are found to stand our winters, whereas, 
if left unprotected when planted in the flower borders, they 
generally perish. 

5x 



890 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



{Apr. 



The season of propagating them by suckers, begins about 
llie first of October, that is, immediately after the plants have 
done flowering; at which time they send up from the old 
roots a great many suckers. These young plants being taken 
off', are potted into small pots, and preserved under frames 
till the spring, when they are planted out, where they are to 
remain to flower. We have often practised the following 
mode of protecting and propagating these splendid plants. In 
autumn, before the first approach of frost, the old plants are 
taken up, with a considerable portion of the surrounding mould 
attached to them, together with all the suckers or young plants. 
These are carried into an open shed, and placed upon shelves, 
Trhere during the winter they are kept sufficiently moist by occa- 
sional waterings, so as to keep the plants alive ; but care must 
be taken that they become not either too dry nor too moist. 
During frost, they are protected sufficiently by being covered 
with mats and straw. In spring they are taken out, and the 
young suckers taken off* and potted into large sixties, and 
placed in a cold frame ; here they remain until fit for planting 
out. When it is not convenient to pot the whole stock of 
them, they may remain in the shade, and be occasionally wa- 
tered and kept clear of damp, until the proper season for their 
being separated and planted out. The shelves in this shed 
were fitted up similarly to the shelves in Oldacre's mushroom- 
house, and fronted the south. The r^of being slated, it was 
perfectly free of damp. In this way we preserved many plants 
which would not stand our winters without some protection. 

Mr. Sabine, in the London Hort. Soc, Vol. II. p. 400, 
details the practice of Mr. Hedges, late gardener to Lord 
Mansfield, at Caen Wood, who managed to cultivate the 
Lobelia fulgens in a way which produced plants and flowers 
of an astonishing size and splendor. In October he takes 
off* the suckers from the old plants in the usual way, and puts 
them into small pots, one in each pot, and keeps them in a 
cold frame till the middle of January. He then removes them 
into a cucumber-frame, where the heat is kept up to 65° of 
Fahrenheit's scale, by linings of hot dung. A pine succession- 
stove of the same temperature, will equally suit them. In the 
middle of February they are shifted into pots a size larger. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



891 



and at the end of March or beginning of April they are again 
moved into larger pots, and in the middle of May they are a 
third time shifted ; the pots to be used for this last shifting 
are twelves. As soon as the plants are well rooted, after the 
last removal, they are carried into a peach-house or green- 
house, in which they continue till they flower, and are hardy 
enough to bear the open air. When they are preparing to 
throw up their flowering stems, and during their growth, it is 
necessary that they be kept very moist, which is effected by 
putting pans under the pots, and keeping them constantly 
filled with water. The plants so managed begin to flower early 
in July, and the spikes continue to grow and are covered with 
flowers through the autumn. The compost used in the pots 
is formed of equal parts of brown or yellow loam, and of leaf 
or bog-mould ; to which is added sand, equal to one-fourth of 
the previous composition, the whole being well incorporated." 
A plant cultivated in the above manner was exhibited to the 
society, which attracted universal notice ; and another, which 
was grown in the Caen Wood garden, measured nearly six 
inches in circumference at the base of the stem, and the height 
of the centre spike of flowers was five feet and a half. 

The hardy Lobelias naturally throw up but one spike of 
flowers, but if this spike be stopped while young, a number 
will issue from the root ; and although they seldom attain so 
great a height, are much more elegant in their appearance, 
and seem more vigorous, and produce a greater number of 
flowers. Lobelias, in the flower borders, are often consider- 
ably checked in their growth in dry seasons: whether they be 
cultivated in pots or planted out, it is material that they be 
abundantly supplied with water. 



892 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May. 



M A Y. 



PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 

Evergreens of all kinds may be planted any time during 
this month with success. If the weather be not showery, 
it will be necessary to water them both at their roots, and 
also over their heads, two or three times a week, with the 
garden-engine ; and if the ground above their roots be co- 
vered with long littery dung, or other similar matter, to resist 
the drought, a great saving of watering will be attained. 
The shoots and leaves should never be allowed to become dry 
or parched either by the sharp winds, which we often have at 
this season, or powerful sunshine, which would be equally 
injurious to them at this period, when they have not yet struck 
root into the ground. Water is the principal food of plants ; 
and if bountifully supplied to newly-planted trees, will greatly 
assist them in their re-establishment. 

SOWING HARDY ANNUALS. 

All kinds of hardy annuals may still be sown, both where it 
is intended that they arc to remain to flower, and also on 
beds in the reserve garden, to be afterwards transplanted into 
the flower borders. 

Those which were sown in March and April, should now 
be thinned, where they may have been too thickly sown, to a 
moderate and regular distance, according to the size and habit 
of growth of the plants. If the weather be showery, take 
advantage of it for this purpose, but if the weather be dry, let 
them be moderately watered after thinning, to settle the mould 
round the roots of the remaining plants, and forward their 
growth. 

Those annuals which are of climbing habits, should be pro- 
vided with supports to which to attach themselves, when they 
stand singly in the borders of the flower garden. Such sup- 



May,] THE FLOWER GARDEN. 893 

ports may be made of wire-work in the form of cones, pyra- 
mids, &c., and of heights suited to the plants intended to cover 
them, or branches of trees may be made use of, to which such 
plants as do not naturally attach themselves should be trained. 
Those which are not of climbing habits, but which from their 
slender growth require support, should be trained to neat 
sticks or pieces of strong wire; which latter, if painted green, 
and annually collected in autumn and placed in the tool-house, 
will last for many years. For small and slender plants they 
are admirably suited, as they are sufficiently strong to support 
the plants, while from their size and colour they are not rea- 
dily seen. 

PLANTING HARDY ANNUALS. 

Hardy annuals should now be transplanted from the beds 
upon which they were sown last month into the borders of 
the flower garden, where they are to remain to perfect their 
flowers. Take advantage of a showery day for this opera- 
tion, or if not, let them be frequently watered, until they 
have taken fresh root. 

SOWING TENDER ANNUALS. 

Tender annuals for a succession to those already raised, 
may be sown by the beginning of this month. Of these, the 
principal are balsams, globe amaranthus, and cockscombs, 
which will prolong the season of those flowers by coming into 
bloom when those already sown are decaying. 

MANAGEMENT OF TENDER ANNUALS. 

Tender annuals, sown in March or the beginning of April, 
will now have aftained a considerable size ; and to have them 
in perfection, they will require repeated shifting into pots, 
increasing also in size. In shifting them from one pot to 
another, care should be taken not to break the balls or injure 
their roots, as any check to them will be apt to start them 
into flower in a premature state. They should be kept m a 



894 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mai/, 



Steady temperature of 60° to 65°, and plentifully supplied with 
water, and placed as near the glass in the frames as possible, 
to prevent them from being drawn up slender. The mould in 
which they should be planted should be light, and of the 
richest nature. The dung of an old cucumber-bed reduced to 
mould, so as to pass freely through a coarse sieve, and having 
lain for twelve months at least fully exposed to the action of 
the weather, and repeatedly turned, will of itself be sufficient 
to gi-ow tender annuals in, until they have attained nearly 
their full size, at which time they should be shifted, for the 
last time, into full-sized pots ; and to such rotten dung should 
be added one-third of rich maiden loam, which will afford ad- 
ditional support to the plants during their flowering state, and 
will tend to cause them not only to bloom stronger, but also to 
retain their flower much longer. During their whole growth, 
they should be frequently watered with liquid manure at their 
roots, and allowed plenty of room in the frames, so that they 
may branch fully out on all sides. As these plants are of 
short duration, it is necessary to have successional crops 
coming on ; and, in order to have a constant supply, it will be 
necessary to sow in February, March, April, May, and June : 
each sowing to be in pots ; and as soon as the plants are 
making their rough leaves, they should be potted into pots of 
the size called small sixties, and placed into a hot-bed, on a 
stratum of saw-dust or rotten tan, as near the glass as may be 
judged safe at that early period. When the plants have made 
some progress, and nearly filled the pots with their roots, they 
should be carefully shifted into small forty-eights, and again 
placed near the glass in the frames, and a brisk growing heat 
kept up to them. In this way they should be kept growing 
until their final shifting into pots of sizes corresponding to 
the respective size of the different species of plants cultivated ; 
balsams requiring pots ten or twelve inches in diameter; cocks- 
combs, pots eight or nine inches, &c. During their whole 
culture, air should be freely admitted to them when the weather 
will permit of it ; and as the plants advance in height too near 
the glass, the frames should be lifted up. 



May ] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



S95 



TRANSPLANT SEEDLING PERENNIAL AND BIKNNIAL PLANTS. 

Perennial and biennial seeds sown last month, or in March, 
will now be ready to transplant or prick out into nursery-beds 
in the reserve flower garden, there to attain sufficient strength 
to fit them for being finally planted out for good. The most 
convenient mode of cultivating these, is to prick them out in 
beds four feet \vide, and place the plants about six inches 
apart each way. After they are planted, they should be shaded 
both from drying winds and powerful sun-shine, and liberally 
supplied with water as they may require it. These are to re- 
main here till autumn, when they may be planted out in the 
flower borders. 



SOWING BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

Such of these seeds as were not sown before, should be 
sown as early this month as convenient, that they may attain 
a sufficient size to be planted out early in autumn. 



PROPAGATING HERBACEOUS PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 

Many of the more delicate herbaceous plants are propagated 
by cuttings of the young shoots, particularly those sorts that 
are not readily increased by dividing their roots ; as these 
plants advance, their propagation should be attended to. A 
shaded situation in the reserve garden will be found the most 
convenient place for this purpose. When the operation of 
propagation is to be carried to a considerable extent, narrow 
beds should be prepared for the purpose, of light sandy peat, 
or light sandy loam, and some of pure white sand, to the 
depth of from three to nine inches, according to the size of the 
cuttings to be used. These beds should be of the breadth of 
the garden hand-glasses, which should be placed over them as 
soon as the cuttings are planted, and kept carefully shaded 
until they have all struck root ; when they may be either 
planted out into nursery-beds, or otherwise, according to 
circumstances. 



896 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER^. 



PROPAGATING HERBACEOUS PLANTS BY DIVIDING 
THEIR ROOTS. 

Many of the more rare herbaceous plants, which do not 
readily perfect seeds in this country, or are short-lived with us, 
may be prolonged by dividing their roots, either by making 
cuttings of the stronger roots of some species, or by dividing 
the roots, having a portion of their crowns or the rudiments 
of the stalks attached to them. In either case, they should be 
carefully separated and planted in a bed prepared as above 
for cuttings, and covered with a hand-glass until they have 
taken root. 

florists' flowers. — CARNATIONS IN POTS. 

As the stalks of the carnations in pots advance, they should 
be neatly and securely supported, by being tied to neat sticks, 
or wire rods, to prevent their flower-stem from being broken. 
The mould in the pots should be occasionally stin-ed upon the 
surface, and part of it removed, and a fresh surfacing of 
mould applied. They should be regularly supplied with water 
every evening; and where it is intended to have a few fine 
large flowers, all those which issue from the side-stalks should 
be dispkiced. The plants should be shaded from the full sun 
either with mats, or placed in a situation sufficiendy shaded, 
but by no means under the shade or drip of trees. 

CARNATIONS IN THE FLOWER BORDERS. 

As the flower-stalks advance, they should be supported with 
neat sticks, to prevent their being broken, and the surface 
often stirred up with the hoe and rake round them, which will 
encourage the production of strong grass, and afford additional 
strength to the flower-stems. In dry weather, they should be 
occasionally watered, according to the state of the weather. 
Some recommend thinning out the flower-buds of the border 
carnations, with a view to have the remaining ones finer ; but 
if the ground has been properly made for them, and if they 
be at this time frequently watered, we see little reason for this 



Ma,,.-] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



897 



operation. The plants, if strong, and if the border has been 
well made, and watered in dry weather, will produce abundance 
of good flowers, and for a long period. 

PINKS IN BEDS. 

The finer pinks in beds will require to be refreshed with 
water in dry weather, and have their flower-steras neatly tied 
up as they advance. Those who are ambitious of fine flowers, 
seldom allow more than two or three flowers to remain upon 
each stalk. The surface of the beds should be frequently 
stirred up ; and if it should sink, so as to leave the plants ex- 
posed to the drought, a little fresh mould should be laid upon 
the surface, which will greatly strengthen the plants. 

AURICULAS IN POTS. 

The fine auricula plants in pots, which will now have done 
flowering, should be removed from the stage, or out of the 
frame where they perfected their flowers, and be placed upon 
a dry airy spot, where they may enjoy the morning sun only 
till nine or ten o'clock. In such a situation they should re- 
main till the middle of September. 

During summer, the pots, and the ground on which they 
stand, should be kept clear of weeds, and all decayed leaves 
taken off' as they appear. Where offsets are strong, they may 
be now disengaged from the parent plant, and planted in a 
shaded border till September, when they should be taken up 
and potted. 

Let the plants in pots be supplied once a day with water in 
dry weather, and also care be taken that they be not injured 
by too much wet, particularly in wet seasons, or towards the 
end of summer ; for although the auricula requires a consider- 
able portion of water during summer, still it is impatient of 
too much moisture both in autumn and spring. 



898 



THE PRACTICAL OARDENF.K. 



[May. 



POLYANTHUSES IN POTS. 

The directions given for auriculas are also applicable to 
polyanthuses ; they are much seldomer found in pots, generally 
succeeding perfectly when planted out in a shady border. 

HYACINTHS IN BEDS. 

The hyacinths which may still be in flower, should be pro- 
tected, by being covered as directed last month, and those 
which are past flowering should be taken up. But this should 
not be done until the leaves become withered and yellow, and 
begin to decay. A dry day should be chosen for taking up 
those roots ; and as they are taken up they should be placed 
upon mats, or some di-y clean place, to dry and harden. In 
the course of a fortnight they will be fit to be cleaned and 
laid by till their season of planting comes on. 

TAKING UP BULBS WHICH ARE NOW PAST FLOWERINO. 

As the bulbous-rooted plants first planted will now have 
finished flowering, and their leaves beginning to decay, they 
should be carefully taken up, and stored in a dry airy room 
luitil the season of planting arrives. It is not necessary that 
all bulbous-rooted plants be thus taken annually up, but it is 
necessary for all the finer sorts, in order that the roots may be 
examined and the offsets or young roots removed, which is the 
mode by which these plants propagate themselves. Besides, 
the bulbs being taken up and kept in a dry place, have thereby 
a respite from action, which respite can be lengthened at the 
pleasure of the cultivator. Bulbs so treated are supposed to 
flower stronger than if they were left altogether in the ground. 
Whether this be the case or not, it is an important feature in 
their cultivation to take them up annually, and the less valu- 
able ones in. two, three, or four years, according to circum- 
stances, that tin ir offsets may be taken off' for increasing the 
stock, as well as preventing an unnecessary number of plants 
fi-om springing from the same centre, and thereby becoming 



Mai/,] THE FLOWER GARDEN. 899 

SO weak that the flowers, though numerous, would be good 
for nothing. 

TRAINING AND SUPPORTING PLANTS. 

•Climbing-plants and shrubs should be regularly and neatly 
nailed or tied to the walls, pales, or supports upon which they 
are to be trained ; and all herbaceous and annual plants should 
also be supported where they require it. Nothing looks so 
slovenly as to see plants rambling into confusion, or blown 
about and broken by high winds or heavy rains. The pruning- 
knife should be freely used in the arrangement or disposal of 
them, and such branches as may be broken or injured, as well 
as a portion of them where they grow too thick, should be 
removed. In supporting plants in the flower borders, much 
ingenuity may be displayed by selecting supports suited to the 
habits of the plants. The rambling growing kinds may be 
judiciously supported by using branches of trees with many 
twigs upon them ; and the more crooked and rustic branches 
of oak, or other rugged growing trees, either with the bark left 
on or taken off, will form excellent conductors for siveet peaSy 
convolvuluses y and such like rapid growing plants, and to such 
the plants will naturally affix themselves sooner, and more 
firmly, than to bare poles or finely-painted sticks, which have 
little of that natural appearance which should harmonize in 
all parts of the flower garden. Whatever conductors or sup- 
ports are used, care should be taken to hide them as much as 
possible ; and in tying them to their supports, it should be 
done so as to leave the plant in its natural form as much as 
possible. This cannot ever be well done, if the plants be once 
allowed to attain too great a size or age. The supports should 
be placed to them before they really want them, and as the 
plants advance in growth be neatly and securely trained to 
them. From the want of sufficient attention being paid to the 
proper management of flower-garden plants, as far as respects 
training and supporting, arises that want of order and neat- 
ness which we always see when this is not scrupulously at- 
tended to ; and if that attention be not paid at an early pe- 
riod of the season, it cannot be afterwards corrected. 



900 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[May. 



Climbing and crccping-plants, from their profusion of 
blossom and their utility in covering disagreeable objects, as 
well as the assistance which they aftbrd us in producing some- 
thing of picturesque or natural appearances in gardens and 
shrubberies, are often too much excluded fi'ora our gardens, 
in consequence of the great confusion into which they are 
too often allowed to run, from a want of training and support 
while young ; whereas, when properly attended to, they even 
of themselves give a degree of well-kei)t appearance to the 
other parts of the grounds, producing pleasing associations and 
atlbrding both shelter and shade. 

Such plants as are planted against walls or espaliers, should 
be now examined, and their young shoots nailed or fastened to 
the wall or trellis. When the object is to obtain a thick mass oi 
tbliage, tlie leading or strongest shoots only should be nailed in, 
and the lateral and weaker branches allowed to remain in their 
natural position ; but when a profusion of bloom is desired, 
and such is the case generally, particularly with rare or deli- 
cate plants, pruning to a certain extent must be attended to. 
Here, as in all other cases relating to pruning, a judgment 
nuist be formed of what wood is likely to produce flowers and 
what is not ; as much of the former must be laid in as can be 
without confusion or crowding one another, and a supply only 
of the latter to fill the naked parts of the wall or espalier, 
and to provide a su})ply for the following season of such wood 
as will, in its turn, produce flowers also. 



June,] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



901 



JUNE. 



CARE OF NEWLY-PLANTED SHRUBS AND ORNAMENTAL TREES, 

All newly-planted shrubs and ornamental trees should be 
frequently and liberally supplied with water both at their roots 
and also over their heads, with the garden-engine. The ground 
round their roots should be mulched with long littery dung, 
straw, or such like matter, to prevent the drought fi'om theii* 
roots. Those which are of a large size, and are liable to be 
blown about by the wind, should be frequently gone over and 
the ground regulated round their stems, and all such as require 
it should be supported with stakes. 

TRANSPLANTING HARDY AND HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. 

All sorts of hardy annuals may now be planted out, where they 
are to remain in the flower garden borders, taking advantage 
of cloudy or showery days. All sorts of half-hardy annuals, 
and many tender annuals, may now also be planted out ; the half- 
hardy ones from the beds, pots, or boxes in which they were 
sown, and the more tender from the pots into which they have 
been potted, and have hitherto been growing. As soon as 
planted out, they should be watered and shaded until they 
have struck fresh root into their borders, after which they will 
only require to be supported with sticks for the season. An- 
nuals of considerable size may be safely transplanted, either 
where they may have come up too thick, or where it is neces- 
sary, from other causes, to remove them to fill situations in 
want of them, or to pot for particular purposes. In removing 
them, let them be taken up with as good balls as possible ; 
and if not done in showery weather, let them be well shaded 
and watered. All patches of hardy annuals, which may have 
come up too thick, if they be not wanted for transplanting, let 
them be thinned out, so that each plant may have room to 



902 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jum. 

grow to its full size. Most kinds of hardy annuals may still 
be sown to come into flower in autumn. 

TENDER ANNUALS. 

The tender annuals, no^v nearly full gi'own, should be re- 
moved fi'om the frames in which they hitherto have been grow- 
ing, and placed in the green-house, which will be by this time 
cleared of most of the plants usually kept there, and which 
may be kept gay all summer by being kept filled with annuals. 
There also they will increase in size, and be at all times ready 
to be removed into the drawing-room, or wherever they may 
be wanted ; or, the}^ may be placed in the open air, in situ- 
ations perfectly sheltered both from high winds and heavy 
rains. 

Such as are still in frames, and intended to succeed those 
now in flower, should be allowed plenty of air during the day, 
and also an abundant supply of water at their roots once 
every day at least. 

PROPAGATING FLOWER GARDEN PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 

Such herbaceous plants as are either rare or valuable, or 
of such as it is desirable to have a great stock, may be now 
successfully propagated by cuttings of the lateral shoots o£ 
their stems, planted in fine sand, either in pots, boxes, or an 
a border prepared for the purpose, over which should be 
placed hand or bell-glasses, for the exclusion of air, until such 
time as they have began to make roots, when the glasses should 
be removed gradually. During the time the cuttings are 
without roots, they should be shaded daily and watered spa- 
ringly ; wlien of sufficient strength, they should be trans- 
planted into nursing-beds or potted into small pots, in which 
they are to stand all winter. 

TAKING UP BULBS. 

As the bulbous-rooted plants, such as tulips, hyacinths, 
polyanthuses, narcissuses, anemonics, ranunculuses, &c, have 



June.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



903 



finished flowering, they should be taken up, and when dried, 
placed in the root-room, or in some dry airy house, each sort kept 
separate until the season of planting arrives. Dry days should 
be selected for taking them up ; and when that is done, they 
should be laid upon mats thinly to dry, in a shaded situation, 
that the process of drying may go on slowly and gradually. 
When they are perfectly dry, they should be well cleaned, all 
the large roots separated from the small ones or offsets, and 
each sort carefully labeled. Jonquils should not be taken 
up every season like other bulbs, as they are found not to 
flower so well the first season after planting ; their removal 
should only be considered necessary once in two, three, or 
four years, and that chiefly for separating the bulbs, which 
will by that time become too numerous, and if not separated 
would destroy one another. Some gardeners carry this system 
of taking up their bulbs to the extreme, and even take up 
crocuses, snowdrops^ irises, croivn imperials, and common 
narcissuses annually ; while others, and by far the best cul- 
tivators, only take these up once in two or three years, in 
order to thin out their clustered roots, or for the purpose of 
propagation. 



PROPAGATING CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 

If the season has been favorable, the carnations and pinks 
in the borders will be by the end of this month fit to be pro- 
pagated. It is material to begin this operation early, as 
the plants will thereby attain greater strength before the 
approach of winter, and be in a state to flower stronger next 
season. The modes of propagation are three ; first by seeds, 
and this is always adopted when the object in view is new or 
improved varieties, and is yearly practised by the florist, who 
bestows considerable care in hybridizing two favourite varieties 
of opposite properties, so as to obtain a variety partaking less 
or more of its parent. The second is by pipings, or cuttings 
of the grass or shoots of the present year, and is most com- 
monly practised in the propagation of pinks, as being expe- 
ditious, and generally certain; althougli they are sometimes 
also propagated, especially some of the more rare or scarce 



904 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



\June. 



sorts, by laying, which is the third mode of propagation, and 
almost always practised with carnations. The first mode, or 
raising by seeds, is performed in spring, and is seldom prac- 
tised by any but the florist, to whom we are indebted for the 
many varieties of these beautiful flowers with which our gar- 
dens are adorned. Carnation-seeds do not often ripen in this 
country, owing principally to the shortness of our summers, 
but it is imported from Switzerland, and if kept from the air, 
will retain its vegetative properties for years; it is usually 
brought to us in phials well-corked, and seeds brought from 
abroad in this manner are found to vegetate freely ; but in 
consequence of those who collect it, not taking the trouble to 
impregnate different sorts together, it is seldom that valuable 
kinds are produced, sometimes not one in a thousand; and 
even from carnation-beds cultivated in this country, a cele- 
brated florist reckons the chance of getting a good flower 
being as one to one hundred: and the florist who raises six 
new carnations in his life-time is considered fortunate. So 
prone is this flower to sport, that seeds taken from the same 
seed-vessel has been often known to produce flowers of all the 
different varieties, that is bizarres, JiakeSy &c. The seeds 
which ripen from the end of August to the beginning of Oc- 
tober, should be kept in the capsule or seed-vessel, in a dry 
room, till the ])cginning or middle of May, when it should be 
sown in pots filled with the compost in which the plants are 
cultivated, and merely covered with a thin sprinkling of the 
same compost finely sifted, sufficient to cover the seeds. At 
that season of the year, artificial heat is not necessary; the 
pots should therefore be placed in an airy part of the garden, 
partially shaded from the heat of the sun, and kept moderately 
moist, but never very wet. As soon as the plants appear about 
three inches high, they should be planted out on a bed of 
prepared compost, or good light rich garden-mould, at about 
ten inches or a foot asunder, and while in that situation, care- 
fully defended from much wet and frost, by having mats or 
lights placed over them. These plants will most generally 
bloom the following summer. 

The second mode of propagating the carnation is by pipings, 
or cuttings of the young shoots. Maddock, a celebrated culii- 



June.'] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



905 



vator of this flower, considered this a precarious method, and 
informs us that five thousand plants were piped one season, of 
which not above two hundred failed. Whereas, the year fol- 
lowing, above two thousand failed out of the same number, 
although, in both seasons, the cultivation had been the same, 
without the least variation. He, however, observes, that some 
sorts succeed by this mode better than by laying, but that it 
requires great experience to distinguish such sorts from the 
rest. The cultivator has often to have recourse to piping, 
when the shoots are too short for laying, or where shoots may 
be broken off, or sent him from a distance, of such sorts to 
which he attaches a particular value. 

Piping is performed by preparing the pipings or cuttings of 
the young shoots having two complete joints, that is, being 
cut off horizontally close under the second joint ; the points 
of the leaves are to be shortened, leaving the whole length of 
the cutting from one inch and a half to two inches, or longer 
according to its strength. Some cultivators pipe their carna- 
tions by cutting them off under the third joint, but the second 
is most generally preferred, as the third is more hard and 
woody, and the pipings do not strike root so soon, nor form 
afterwards such handsome plants. Accordingly as the pipings 
are made, they should be put into a vessel of clean soft-water 
for a few minutes, and as soon as possible planted in the bed 
prepared for them, which should be as follows : A slight hot- 
bed should be put up for them a few days previously to the 
pipings being made, and covered with a few inches of fine 
light rich compost, which should be rendered regular and 
smooth, and slightly beaten down with the back of a spade. 
The pipings being ready, the bed should be moistened mode- 
rately, and the pipings taken out of the water, and inserted 
into the bed singly, in their wet state, about half an inch deep. 
No more of the bed should be moistened at once than is to be 
filled with pipings immediately after, for if not done while moist, 
the mould would become too compact for the pipings to enter, 
which they should do freely without the use of a peg, as in 
the way of putting in cuttings of plants generally. As soon 
as the pipings are placed in the mould, they should be gently 
watered to settle the mouk). fairly about their bases, and a belU 



900 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



\ Juried 



glas3 placed over them as soon as the leaves become perfectly 
dry, which will be in a short time. On placing the glass over 
them, press it gently into the mould, the better to exclude the 
admission of air. , This being done, all that is further re- 
quired is to attend to shade them regularly from the sun, and 
clear them of all appearance of damp or decay accordingly as 
it may appear, and give them water when necessary ; but this 
latter may not be required until the plants begin to root, which, 
as soon as it has taken place, the bell-glasses are to be gra- 
dually raised until they be entirely dispensed with. If it 
should be necessary to water them, at any time, before their 
roots arc formed, it should be done early in the morning, and 
the glass left off for a few minutes until the leaves become 
dry. They should also be inured to the sun by degrees, be- 
ginning by allowing it to shine upon them in the mornings and 
evenings, until they can bear it with safety, after which they 
will soon make progress in their growth. 

The third and most successfid method of propagating car- 
nations is by laying, and it is that which is most generally 
practised. The precise time for beginning this operation is to 
be determined by the forwardness or backwardness of the 
season or situation ; the end of this month is often a good 
time, while some do not begin before the middle or end of the 
succeeding one. Hogg of Paddington, a celebrated culti- 
vator of this flower, does not begin before the 21st of July, 
and continues laying till the 21st of August. Others begin 
before the flowers begin to expand, and are guided by the 
shoots or grass when it is of length and strength sufficient to 
admit of the operation ; whilst, on the other hand, many do 
not begin till the flowers are fully expanded, or beginning to 
fade. According to previous observation, the earlier that the 
plants are laid, the stronger will they be before the winter sets 
in, and consequently will be better calculated for producing 
an abundant bloom the following year. The operation of 
laying consists in first cutting off the lower leaves of the young 
shoots all round the plant quite close, and then shortening the 
leaves at the extremity of each shoot. An incision is then 
made, by entering a sharp pen or budding knife about a quarter 
of an inch below a joint, and passing the knife up through the 



June^ 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



907 



centre of it, and also through the joint next to it. Thus far 
the operation is completed. The bed or mould round the 
plants should have been previously stirred up, and a small hill 
of fine light rich mould raised round their base. A number of 
small hooked pegs should be in readiness, and the layer pre- 
pared, as already described, should be bent down and buried 
about half an inch below the surface of the mould, in which 
position it should be secured by placing a hooked peg, so that 
it will hold the part of the layer deprived of leaves under the 
mould, while the top of the shoot is made to take a perpen- 
dicular direction, making the bend in the layer where the in- 
cision commenced ; the mould being pressed firmly round it, 
it is finished : the whole of the shoots, or as many as may be 
intended to be laid, being, in like manner so treated, the 
whole are well watered, and shaded for a few days during the 
middle of each day. It is advisable to dress all the shoots of 
each plant, however great the number, or often of two or 
three plants, if thin of shoots, before they be pegged down, 
in order that they may be partially dried before they be bent 
down or buried in the mould. They become less brittle when 
partially dried, and are therefore less liable to break in the 
operation; besides, the sap having partly escaped will not, 
after being laid in the mould, be so liable to engender damp, 
or a disposition to decay, which sometimes is the case, when 
the shoots laid are succulent and full of sap. Some culti- 
vators, as a preventive, cut off the point or nib of the tongue 
or talus, immediately below the joint, and consider that it 
assists the protusion of that granulous matter from which the 
fibres proceed. 

Previously to the operation of laying being performed, the 
plants should have a good watering, particularly if dry 
weather, as, after the fresh mould is laid round their roots 
for the reception of the layers, neither the rain nor the water 
from the watering-pots can so readily penetrate to the roots of 
the plants without endangering the young layers, or displacing 
the mould in which they are placed. 

When the young plants are properly rooted, which will 
be the case with some sorts in three weeks, and with others 
in four or five, provi/^ed that they have been attended to with 



908 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June, 



plenty of water, they should then be disengaged from the 
parent plants, by being cut off about an inch nearer the old 
plant, than where the roots of the young one are protruding. 
They should be carefully taken up, with as much ball at their 
roots as will adhere to them, and planted out in nursing-beds, 
to remain till wanted for planting out into the flower garden 
borders ; but those which are considered as the most valuable 
sorts should be potted, one plant in each pot, of the size known 
as small forty-eights, and placed in a frame and shaded till 
they have taken fresh root and have begun to grow. 

Pinks are propagated, as has been already observed, like 
carnations, by seed, pipings, and layers. 

In the first place, to produce new varieties, bf/ seed — The 
pink being a much hardier plant than the carnation, it ripens 
its seeds more frequently with us, and is sown and afterwards 
treated exactly like the carnation. 

Bf/ pipings. — This is the most usual method of propagating 
this flower, and is performed at that time when the young 
shoots are sufficiently strong to admit of the operation, which 
is generally during or immediately previous to its flowering. 
The operation is performed the same as has been already de- 
scribed for carnations, although many do not apply any bottom- 
heat. The application of a slight bottom-heat is the most 
certain and also the most expeditious method, the plants 
being much sooner fit for transplanting into nursing-beds. 

Pinks are also sometimes propagated bt/ layers, but this is 
only adopted when the sorts intended to be propagated are of 
a delicate or valuable nature ; but it is never carried to any 
extent, as it is both tedious and troublesome. 

AURICULAS AND POLYANTHUSES. 

Auriculas and polyanthuses in pots should be kept in a 
shaded situation during the heat of the summer months, and 
supplied with water plentifully. Indeed, all plants of the 
family Primula should be kept in shaded and rather damp 
situations in summer ; as, if exposed to the full sun, they will 
do little good, being for the most part plants of shade or na- 
tives of cold and humid atmospheres. 



Jifjie.] 



THE ILOWER GARDEN. 



909 



ALPINE PLANTS IN POTS. 

Alpine plants in pots will require to be plentifully supplied 
with water mornings and evenings, before the sun shines upon 
them and after it has set ; not that they require such abundant 
supplies of that necessary element, but the intention of re- 
peated waterings is to cool the atmosphere around them, which 
at this season is too warm for many of them, particularly such 
as are natives of northern latitudes. They will also require 
to be often gone over, and all weeds picked out of the pots as 
they appear, and a watchful eye kept that they be not de- 
stroyed by slugs or worms. Those which are annuals should 
be attended to, when their seeds ripen, and immediately sown, 
as many of the more rare species are apt to go off after flow- 
ering; and it is therefore necessary that they be propagated 
either by saving their seeds, or by cuttings, or dividing at the 
roots. 

Alpine plants planted upon rocks will require occasional 
watering, as their roots do not strike deep into the soil in 
which they grow ; and being generally elevated above the 
general surface, are therefore more liable to be injured by 
droughts of long continuance. 

SUPPORTING AND TRAINING PLANTS. 

Support and train all plants that require it, which will give 
a degree of regularity, order, and neatness to the flower garden. 
Prune all those which require it of straggling shoots, or such 
as may have been injured, and thin those which are too thick 
of branches. Cut down all dead or decaying shoots of such 
plants as may be past flowering ; and if the borders appear 
too thin in any part, let plants be brought from the reserve 
garden to make up the deficiency, in which there should always 
be a stock of plants and shrubs of great variety in pots, tubs, 
or boxes, ready upon all occasions to make up deficiencies, or 
indeed, occasionally, to give quite a new feature to the flower 
garden. This mode has been too little attended to in this 
country, but with the Chinese it is carried to a great degree of 
perfection; indeed, the wliole contents of a Chinese flower 



910 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jutie. 



garden are portable ; hence, with little trouble, they can meta- 
morphose their gardens as often as they choose, with as much 
ease as they can alter the arrangement of the furniture in their 
houses. 

DRESSING THE FLOWER BORDERS. 

The borders of the flower garden must be carefully attended 
to, and no weeds allowed to make their appearance ; they 
ought to be repeatedly hoed and raked, whether there be 
weeds in them or not, to give an air of cheerfulness and neat- 
ness to them. The oftener this operation is carried into etfect, 
the less trouble will be given. All decaying branches or 
plants should be removed, and the plants regulated and tied 
up before the borders are finished ; the edgings, if of box, 
ought to be new cut, or, if of turf, should be gone over with the 
edging-iron, and cut neatly and fairly. The grass should be 
kept well mown and rolled, and no litter allowed to be seen 
within the boundary of the garden. The gravel walks, if any, 
should be regularly picked, hoed, raked, and rolled. 

PRUNING ROSES. 

Many of the more delicate and fine French roses are apt to 
die at the points of the shoots, when pruned in winter or early 
in spring. To remedy this evil, a second pruning of the 
tender shoots should be now performed, or when the flowers 
flide. In the same manner as in winter pruning, all dead and 
decaying wood should be cut out, and those shoots which have 
done flowering, should be shortened back to a healthy strong 
bud ; but those shoots, the buds of which have not yet flow- 
ered, may be left unshortcned till the end of September or the 
beginning of October. Some prune all their best roses at this 
time, and tlieir common sorts in winter, in the usual way. 



July,] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



911 



JULY. 



PLANTING EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Towards the end of this month, if the weather should be 
showery, evergreens may be successfully removed ; box edgings 
laid and clipped, and evergreen hedges of all kinds cut. These 
hedges are not so generally planted now as formerly, when a 
formal and stiff style of gardening was in vogue, and in which 
they formed a prominent feature. As fences, or screens for 
shelter, they have their uses ; and if planted in irregular lines, 
and not clipped, they may be admissible to a certain extent, 
and will answer many of the uses of dense shrubberies, without 
taking so many trees in their formation, or without occupying 
so much ground. 

TAKING UP BULBOUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

As the beds of bulbous-rooted plants have done flowering, 
let them be taken up, as already directed, and stored by till 
their season of planting. 

PROPAGATING CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 

Continue to lay and pipe carnations and pinks, which will, 
by the beginning of this month, be in good order. (For full 
directions, see last month.) 

CARE OF CARNATIONS AND PINKS COMING INTO FLOWER. 

The more choice carnations, in pots or in prepared beds, 
should now be attended to. Those in pots should be removed 
to the green-house and placed in a shaded situation, where 
they will expand their blossoms without injury ; and where 
there is a stage-frame on which to place these plants, it should 
now be filled with them. Previously to taking them either 
into the green-house or stage-frame, the pots should be cleaned 



912 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



\_July. 



and the surface of the mould stirred up, to give them a neat 
appearance. Their flower-stalks should be neatly supported, 
and where there are too many flower-buds upon the plants, 
they should be thinned out. Cut off, with a sharp knife, all 
the smallest flower-buds, in order that the larger may have 
room to expand their petals, and that they may not be robbed 
of a due share of nourishment. 

Such of the flowers as may appear to burst or open sooner 
on one side of the calix than the other, should be assisted by 
opening the opposite side with a sharp-pointed pen-knife, in 
t\vo or three places, to assist the petals in their regular expan- 
sion. This process of slitting the flower-pod must not be 
done in a careless manner, nor too much be done at a time, 
but repeated frequently, and done with care and judgment. It 
is also of much use, in order to prevent this premature burst- 
ing of the calix, to tie it round near the middle with a fresh 
bit of matting or other bandage. The florists most generally 
for this purpose use narrow slips of bladder, which they wrap 
round the bud, and fasten them to it with gum-water. 

To prolong the season of these flowers, it is necessary that 
they be protected both from excessive sun-shine and rain. 
M hen the plants stand singly in the borders, it is more diOicult 
to i)rovide sufficient shelter for them, than when they are in 
beds, or in pots, where they can be either covered with a canvas 
awning, or the pots removed under shelter. Florists use for 
those which stand singly small tin caps, in form of an umbrella, 
and from six to ten inches in diameter ; each cap is furnished 
with a square tube on the summit, through which the stick 
that supports the plant is passed and made flist by a wedge, 
or often by a nail, which passes through the side of the tube 
and into the stick, which secures the cap at any distance from 
the flower which may be selected. Where carnations are cul- 
tivated on a large scale, it is better to have them in one bed 
or beds, where they can be protected by an awning of canvas, 
supported over them sulHcicntly high to admit the owner to 
walk freely underneath, which awning can be drawn up and 
down, as occasion may require, by means of pullies and lines. 
Those that cultivate florists' flowers should not be without 
such frames, for they serve the purpose of sheltering the early 



Jull/.] THE FLOWER GARDEN, 913 

blooming hyacinthSi tulips, ranunculuses^ and anemonies; 
and when those flowers are over, they come into use in the 
protection of carnations and pinks. There are few cultivators 
of this flower who do not prefer having their plants in pots, 
as being more portable and less subject to accidents, arising 
from various causes, of which the carnation is peculiarly im- 
patient. 

Those who are high in the fancy, approve of stages about 
fifteen or eighteen inches high, on which to stand the plants, 
in order that they may be seen to greater advantage, as being 
brought nearer to the eye. These stages should be made very 
strong, as the weight of pots that they may have to sustain 
will be great ; and in order to prevent the intrusion of ear- 
wigs, which are very destructive to the flowers of carnations, 
they place the posts or supporters of this stage into pans of 
water. If the bottoms of the posts be painted over every four 
or five days with oil of the coarsest quality, no insects will 
ascend by them. Oil, in all shapes, is destructive to insects, 
and the least drop of it applied to the backs of most of them, 
proves instantly fatal. 

Florists attach great mystery to the cultivation of their fa- 
vorite flowers, and it cannot be denied that they follow many very 
absurd and ridiculous customs, such as the preparation of their 
composts ; the numerous ingredients, of which many of them 
are composed, are at decided variance with each other, and 
with common sense. The perfection of a florist's flower is 
one of his own making, as if Nature herself were deficient in 
this important point, or that he himself were superior in judg- 
ment to Nature herself Hence the variance which has always 
subsisted between the florist and the botanist, who admires 
Nature as she really is, and treats the pampered production oi 
the other as a monstrosity. 

** Who can paint 

Like Nature ? Can imagination boast, 
Amid its gay creation, hues like her's ? 
Or, can it mix them with that matchless skill, 
And lose them in each other, as appears 
In every bud that blows ? " 

6 A 



911 



THE PRACTICAL GARDrNER. 



[July. 



CRITERION OF A FINE CARNATION. 

A celebrated florist gives the following as the criterion of a 
fine carnation: " The stem should be strong, tall, and straight, 
not less than thirty nor more than forty-five inches high. The 
foot-stalks supporting the flowers should be strong and elastic, 
and of a proportioned length. The flower or corolla should 
not be less than three inches in diameter, consisting of a great 
number of large well-formed petals, but neither so many as 
to give it a crowded or too full appearance, nor so few as to 
make it appear too thin and empty. The petals should be 
long, broad, and substantial, particularly those of the lower 
or outer circle, commonly called the guard-leaves ; these should 
rise perpendicularly about half an inch above the calix, and 
then turn off gracefully in a horizontal direction, supporting 
the interior jjetalsy and altogether forming a convex and 
nearly hemispherical corolla. The interior jjeials should 
rather decrease in size as they approach the centre of the 
flower, which should be completely filled with them. The 
2)etals should be regularly disposed alike on every side, im- 
bricating each other in such a manner as that both their re- 
spective and united beauties may captivate the eye at the same 
instant. They should be nearly flat ; however, a small degree 
of concavity or inflection at the lamina or broad end is allow- 
able, but their edges should be perfectly entire; that is, free 
from notches, fringe, or indenture. The calix should be at 
least one inch in length, terminating with broad points, suf- 
ficiently strong to hold the narrow bases of the petals in a 
close and circular body. Of whatever colour the flower may be 
possessed, they should be perfectly distinct, and disposed in 
long regular stripes, broadest at the edge of the hunina, and 
gradually becoming nan'ower as they approach the unguis^ or 
base of the petal, then terminating in a fine point. Each 
petal should have a due proportion of white; for example, 
one-half, or nearly so, which should be perfectly clear and 
free from spots." 

" Bizarres, or those which contain two colors upon a white 
ground, are esteemed rather preferable to flakes, which have 
but one, especially when their colours are remarkably rich and 



July.'] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



915 



very regularly distributed. Scarlet, purple, and pink, are the 
three colours most predominant in the carnation. The two first 
are seldom to be met with in the same flower, but the two 
latter are very frequently found. 

" Where the scarlet predominates, and is united wdth a paler 
colour, or, as it sometimes happens, with a very deep purple 
upon a white ground, it constitutes a scarlet bizarre, of which 
there are many shades and varieties ; some richer and others 
paler in their colours, as is the case with all the rest. Pink 
bizarres, are so called when the pink abounds ; purple bizarres 
when the purple abounds ; crimson bizarres consist of a deep 
purple and rich pink. 

" When the pink flake is very high in colour, it is distinguished 
by the appellation of a rose-flake ; but there are some so nearly 
in the medium between a pink and scarlet, that it can scarcely 
be defined to what class it belongs." To these varieties may 
be added picotees, w^hich are highly esteemed by some culti- 
vators, on account of being hardier than the generality of 
carnations, and are therefore desirable for the flower borders ; 
independently of which, they are of themselves very beautiful, 
and are distinguished from the others, their colours being prin- 
cipally yellow and white spotted, while the others have their 
colours in stripes. Their cultivation and propagation are similar 
to that laid down for carnations. 

The enemies which annoy the carnation, are earwigs, slugs, 
green-fly, above the surface of the ground, and that destructive 
insect, the wire-worm, beneath it. The three former are easily 
destroyed, by following the directions already laid down in 
the foregoing parts of this work ; but the latter is not easily 
got rid of, except by carefully searching for it in the ground, 
which cannot ever be carried to any great extent. When it 
makes its appearance in pots, it may be readily detected by 
turning out the mould and potting the plants in fresh compost. 

Pinks not being so tender in their nature as carnations, they 
are brought to great perfection with much less trouble, and are 
seldom cultivated in pots to any great extent. However, the 
choice kinds of pinks in beds should, during their season of 
blooming, be protected by a screen similar to that used for 
carnations, to protect them from the sun and heavy rains, 



916 



THE PKACTICAL GARDENEK. 



which would much injure tlieir colours and hasten the decay of 
their flowers. Those which seem disposed to burst, should 
be assisted as already directed for carnations, and neatly tied 
up to sticks to support the flower. 

CRITERION OF A FINE DOUBLE PINK. 

Florists consider that a fine pink should not be less than 
twelve inches in height, having a stem strong, elastic, and 
erect ; that the calix should in form and proportion be like 
that of the carnation, but of course smaller; that the flower 
in its formation should also agree with the formation of that 
flower, and be not less than two inches and a half in diameter. 
The petals should be large, broad, and substantial, and finely 
fringed or serrated round their edges, but not so much so as 
to a})pear in deep notches or indentures. The finer the fringe 
is, the nearer they approach to perfection ; and those are con- 
sidered the finest which are perfectly entire, or what florists 
term rose-leaved, that is, without any fringe whatever. The 
broadest part of the petal, that is, the part farthest from the 
eye, should be perfectly white, and distinct fiom it, unless it 
be a laced pink ; that is, one which is so called from its being 
ornamented by a continuation of the color of the eye round 
it ; bold, clean, and distinct, leaving a considerable portion of 
white in the centre, perfectly free from any tinge or spot. The 
eye should be equal in proportion to the white, or nearly so, 
and the darker it is the better. Bright or dark rich crimson 
or })urple, resembling velvet, is esteemed, but the nearer it ajv 
proaches to black, the higher it is prized. 

SOWING MIGNIONETTE FOR WINTER AND SPRING USE. 

Mignionette has long been a popular flower ; the agreeable 
fragrance of its bloom has long insured it a place in our gar- 
dens and rooms. During summer it is a plant of the easiest 
culture, and will grow in any soil or situation ; like all other 
aromatic plants, its fragrance is most powerful when grown in 
light barren soil, fully exposed to the sun. To have.it in 
perfection during winter has long been considered a deside- 



Jw/y.] THE FLOWER GARDEN. 917 

ratum, and the London nurserymen have tried various plans 
to procure it during that season. It is an article of consider- 
able importance to them in a commercial point of view; some 
of them, such as Colvil, having not less than from one to five 
thousand pots annually fit for sale from November till April. 

Those who cultivate this plant for the London market, sow 
the seed at different times, from the result of a long expe- 
rience, and they fix the times of sowing to correspond with 
the time they expect a demand for it. To obtain plants in 
bloom during the months of January and February, they sow 
in the open ground about the end of July, sowing the seeds 
thin, that the plants may be stocky. By the middle of Sep- 
tember these plants will be fit for potting. They choose pots 
of various sizes, those of the sizes called thirty-two's are the 
most convenient; into these pots they plant from eight to 
twelve plants, thinning them out afterwards, should they be too 
thick. The mould of which they make use is rather light and 
porous, admitting the water to pass freely through it. After 
potting the plants, they are placed into a cold pit or frame, 
and shaded for a few days until they have fully established 
themselves ; after which, they are exposed to the weather, 
without any protection, except from dashing rains, till Novem- 
ber. By the first of that month they are showing flowers, and 
should then be removed into the gi-een-house, conservatory, or 
drawing-room, where they will continue to flower during the 
whole of the winter. A second crop is sown not later than 
the 25th of August, which comes into perfection in March, 
April, and May. 

This crop is sown in the pots where it is to remain, and 
plunged in any dry border, or placed upon a bed of coal- 
ashes, as they cannot be injured by the weather while young. 
In November this crop is thinned, leaving eight or ten plants 
in each pot, and at that time are covered with a frame, and 
the glasses put on during night and in cold or snowy days, 
taking care that they sustain no injury either by frost or 
rain. To prevent the pots from being broken by the expansion 
of frost, as well as to protect the roots, they are plunged in 
rotten tan, if not already plunged ; but when the weather is 
so severe as to freeze the mould in the pots, even slightly, the 



918 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



sashes should be covered with mats. The crop for the spring 
supply should be sown not later than the 25th of February, 
and will come into perfection by the middle or end of May. 
This sowing should be placed on a gentle heat, which should 
be kept up by renewing the linings as the heat declines. 

There is a variety called the tree-mignionette, which is much 
sought after, and is propagated from seeds sown in spring, 
and also by cuttings, which strike root without much dif- 
ficulty. When sufficiently rooted, if from cuttings, or if from 
seeds and strong enough, they should be potted into small 
pots, and forwarded with a little heat. As the plants ad- 
vance, they should be trained to a single stem, displacing 
all lateral shoots as they appear, but taking care not to 
injure the leaves upon the stem which draw nourishment to 
the plant. When this stem has attained a height which is 
deemed sufficient, the lateral shoots are then allowed to grow 
from it, near the top, and as they extend themselves, they 
should be frequently stopped by pinching their points off, so 
as to form a bushy head. By autumn, the plants will have 
attained the shape of a tree in miniature, and will be covered 
with bloom. As the plants increase in size, they should be 
once or twice shifted into larger pots ; however, leaving them, 
when full grown, in pots of the size called small thirty-two's. 
By a similar mode of treatment, plants of the common mig- 
nionette will attain the same habit ; and if kept in training, by 
continually pinching the shoots and keeping the plants rather 
dry, they may be kept for several years. We have more than 
once had plants of mignionette in this way four years old, 
and have been assured by a botanical friend that he has had 
a plant, similarly treated, remain in perfect health seven 
years. 



THE FLOAVER GARDEN. 



919 



AUGUST. 



PLANTING EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 

This is a season when most evergreens may be removed with 
success, particularly if the weather should be moist ; if not, 
recourse must be had to the watering-pot and garden-engine. 
Box edgings and evergreen hedges may also now be cut or 
trimmed, if not done last month. Large evergreens may also 
be headed down, and all that are in want of pruning may now 
be done with propriety. 

PROPAGATING EVERGREEN SHRUBS, &C. 

Evergreen shrubs are propagated by layers, cuttings, &c. 
To obtain handsome specimens of these, as well as of all other 
trees and shrubs, we have already observed that propagation 
by seeds is to be preferred. However, for many purposes 
for which evergreens are used, such as forming underwood in 
plantations and cover for game, plants originated by laying or 
from cuttings are generally used. At this season, cuttings may 
be successfully put in, but the sooner in the month the better, 
that the plants may be rooted before the approach of winter ; 
for this purpose, cuttings of the young wood should be planted 
in a shaded situation, in beds of common garden-mould, and 
as thick in the bed as convenient to plant them. The cuttings 
should not be shortened, neither should any of the leaves be 
taken off' nor shortened, unless such as would be buried in 
the ground. The cuttings may be from a foot in length, or 
longer, to three or four inches, according to circumstances ; 
and being well fixed in the mould, and occasionally wa- 
tered, will soon emit roots, and be by this time next year in 
fit order to plant out into nursery-lines, to attain a size fit for 
planting out where they may be afterwards required. 



920 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



PROPAGATING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

Herbaceous plants are propagated by seeds, cuttings of the 
stems and roots, and by splitting or dividing them into smaller 
pieces. Propagation by seeds and by cuttings of the roots, 
arc performed generally in spring, in order that the young 
seedling-plants may attain a sufficient size the first year of 
their growth, to enable them to withstand the approaching 
winter ; and propagation by cuttings of the roots is performed 
at that season also, as soon or immediately before their vege- 
tating powers become affected by the natural influence of the 
season. Propagation, by cuttings of the stem, may be per- 
formed at any period after the plant has nearly attained its 
full size, till it becomes too hard and dry ; after which time 
the success will be less certain. Almost all herbaceous pe- 
rennial plants can be propagated by this method; and to 
increase any scarce species, it is certainly of all methods the 
most certain and expeditious. Propagation, by dividing at 
the roots, is often performed, and may be practised at any 
season of the year upon many plants ; those that are of 
evergreen and diminutive habits in particular. Those which 
attain a large size are less calculated for this mode of pro- 
pagation during their season of growth ; but from the time 
that they begin to decay in autumn, till they have begun to 
grow again in spring, they may, with the greatest safety, be 
divided, and almost increased at pleasure. 



CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 

Carnations and pinks may still be propagated by laying and 
piping, but the sooner it be now done the more strong will the 
plants be before winter. Carnations laid last month, should 
be looked over, as many of them, and by far the greater part, 
will have struck root sufficiently to warrant their being sepa- 
rated from the parent plants. The finer kinds will require, 
for their greater safety, to be potted in small pots, one plant 
in each, in the size called large sixties, or small forty-eights ; 
and as soon as they are potted they should be moderately 



Aug.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



921 



watered, and placed in a shaded place, till the season ap- 
proaches, when they will have to be placed in frames for their 
winter habitation. Those which are less valuable, are gene- 
rally called border flowers, and those planted in our flower 
gardens, should, when fully rooted, be also taken off, which 
they will be in from four to six weeks after laying, and 
planted in beds in a warm border, or other well-sheltered 
place, at five or six inches apart, or more, according to 
iheir size, where they are to remain till planted out in the 
flower borders, either in autumn, or with greater success in 
spring. 

Pinks propagated by pipings last montn, should also be 
looked over ; and if sufficiently rooted, they should be taken 
up and planted in a sheltered situation in nursing-beds, five 
or six inches apart, in which they are to remain until they 
are planted out in the flower borders. Such pipings as may 
not yet have made sufficient roots, should be, as often as they 
require it, supplied with water and kept clear of weeds. 

AURICULAS. 

Auriculas in pots, of the finer kinds, or such as are 
planted in the flower borders, the offsets of which were not 
taken off" in May, may now be done, and the finer or scarcer 
sorts potted in pots of the size called large sixties, or small 
forty-eights, where they will remain till spring, to be potted 
off" into larger ones. The more common kinds, when taken 
off*, may be planted in beds in the reserve garden, and at- 
tended to with water and shade for a few weeks, when they 
will be sufficiently established to be either planted out or left 
till spring. 

ALPINE PLANTS IN POTS. 

The collection of Alpine plants in pots should be gone 
over, and any of the more rare divided, if done flowering, to 
increase the stock. Those which have perfected their seeds, 
or which are in progi'ess of perfection, such as the fami- 
lies of Draba, Arabis, and indeed most of the plants of 

6 B 



922 THE PRAcnrAL gardener. [^"g* 

the natural order of Cruclferfv, should be carefully watched, 
that their seeds may be saved, and a part of each species 
immediately sown ; the remainder to be saved till spring, in 
order to ensure a more positive success. Such plants freely 
perfect their seeds with us, and their propagation by other 
means is not so convenient. 

Plants of the natural order of Soxi/ragecCy and those 
which are allied to it in habit, readily propagate by dividing 
the whole plant; and most of them will increase by such 
means, whether each piece be furnished with roots or not. 
Weeds should be carefully eradicated, and fjreat attention 
paid to render the atmosphere round them both humid and 
temperate at this time, when we have generally our hottest 
weather : this is only to be effected by water, freely and ju- 
diciously applied to them, and a regular and sufficient degree 
of shade ; but, as we have already observed, they should not 
be placed under the drip nor the shade of trees. 

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLING PERENNIAL AND BrENNL\L 
PLANTS, 

Such plants as may have been originated from seed, of the 
above denominations, if sufficiently strong, may be safely trans- 
planted out of the seed-bed into nursery-beds ; or many of the 
strongest plants may be removed at once into the situations 
where they are ultimately to remain. 

Advantage should be taken of moist days for this opera- 
tion ; but if such should not occur, recourse must be had to 
tlie watering-pot and shading, which must be continued until 
'ain comes, or until the plants be sufficiently rooted. 

GATHERING FLOWER-SEEDS. 

Flower-seeds, whether annual, biennial, or perennial, should 
be now carefully gathered as they ripen, where the intention is 
either to propagate rare or curious species, or for the purpose 
of sale. As each species ripens, they should Ix? carefully col- 
lected and deposited in bags, if the quantity be considerable ; 
hut if small, into small paper package*. In the former case, 



^iug.j CHE FLOWER GARDEN. i)2S 

having the name carefully written on a wooden or paper label, 
and put into the bag for greater certainty. Upon tlie outside 
of each bag the name should also be written, for the greater 
convenience of ascertaining the different sorts. Those which 
are in smaller packages should have their generic and specific 
name also written upon the outer side of each packet. As 
they are collected, and when sufficiently dried, they should 
be laid by in the seed- room, or other dry place, till the 
season of sowing; however, they should be occasionally ex- 
amined, to see that none have been laid by in a damp state, 
which, if not detected, would soon destroy the vegetative 
powers of the seeds. 

The saving of flower-seeds is seldom carried to any extent 
in the gardens of private individuals, neither would any re- 
turn be adequate to the expense and trouble of collecting and 
curing, as the generality of them can always be purchased 
much cheaper than they can be grown and saved. We here, 
however, allude to such kinds, as are either curious, rare, or 
interesting to the owner or manager of the garden ; indeed, 
the cultivator, who is high in the fancy of cultivating rare or 
curious specimens, or of promulgating many varieties of cer- 
tain species, will always find ample employment at this season. 
The production of hybrids or mules is a favorite pursuit of 
many ; and this is attained by bringing the fertilizing dust of 
one plant in contact with the feminine pollen of another. 
The progeny thus produced often, in some species, participate 
of the characters of both, and those seed-vessels which may 
have been thus operated on, should be distinctly marked when 
gathered, and their future merits ascertained. 



921 



iHE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Sept. 



SEPTEMBER. 



TRANSPLANTIN'G FLOWER GARDEN PLANTS. 

Those plants which may have been originated from seeds, 
cuttings, or by other modes of propagation, may now be 
planted out ; the strongest where they are to remain to bloom, 
and the weaker or superabundant ones into nursery-beds, to 
gain strength, and to serve as a reserve-stock for future sup- 
plies. Advantage should be taken of moist days for this pur- 
pose ; indeed, it is in all cases better to defer planting a few 
days, than to plant when the ground is too dry and the sun- 
shine powerful ; no artificial watering is equal to the watering 
of nature. 

PROPAGATING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

Continue the propagation of these plants either by the pro- 
cess of the division of the roots, or by sowing seeds which 
have been saved during the season. Some of the more rapid 
growing sorts may be propagated by cuttings, but the sooner 
in the month that this operation is performed the better, in 
order that the plants may be sufficiently rooted before vege- 
tation ceases. Such plants as may be out of flower, and whose 
flower-stems are decaying, may be divided at the root ; and, 
if sufficiently strong, planted out, where they are perma- 
nently to remain. 

PLANTING BULBOUS ROOTS. 

Towards the end of this month, beds should be got ready 
for the reception of hyacinths, tulips, ranunculuses, ane- 
monies, &c., where they are to be planted in masses. For 
this purpose, the ground should be dug or trenched two feet 
deep, breaking the mould fine, and laid out in breaths of con- 
venient dimensions. When the beds are ready, the roots 
should be planted in lines across, and at depths according to 



S^Spt.i THE FLOWER GARDEN. 925 

the kinds planted ; the two former requiring to be planted 
deeper than the two latter. It is always better, in planting bulbs, 
to plant them too shallow than too deep, as it can be remedied, 
if they be too shallow, at any time, by surfacing the beds with 
a portion of prepared mould ; whereas, if they be too deeply 
planted, they cannot be so safely uncovered of the super- 
abundant mould, without endangering the buds of the bulbs. 

Where bulbs are to be planted in patches, or singly, in the 
borders of the flower garden, the spots being marked out, 
should be loosened up to the above depth, particularly if the 
soil be strong and adhesive ; but where of a sandy light tex- 
ture, one foot will be sufficient. In the former case, a portion 
of vegetable mould or sharp sand should be added, to correct 
the stifihess or adhesiveness of the soil. When planted, neat 
pegs should be placed in the centre of each patch, to serve as 
a guide in digging or hoeing the ground afterwards, or until 
the plants come up, that they may not be destroyed. 

CARNATIONS AND PINKS. 

The layers of carnations, and pipings of pinks, that may not 
have been removed from the parent plants or from the hand- 
glasses where they have been struck, should now be taken off 
early this month ; if not done before the end, it will be safer 
to let them remain where they are until the spring. 

AURICULAS IN POTS. 

Towards the end of the month, the finer auriculas in pots 
should be removed to their winter habitation, either into the 
stage-frame or into some dry airy and warm situation, where 
they can be protected during the winter with frames and 
glasses ; for, although the auricula. Primula auricula, be a 
native of the central parts of Europe, and in altitudes con- 
siderably affected with cold, still those varieties, produced by 
long cultivation, are as much altered, in regard to their natural 
hardihood, as they are improved by the fostering care of the 
florist. They will withstand well a considerable degree of dry 
cold, but cold accompanied with wet will soon destroy them. 



926 



THE PRACTICAL GAFtDENER. 



Until the month of November they need not be constantly 
covered, but only protected occasionally from heavy rains, or 
similar injury. As their leaves decay round the bottom of the 
stem, they should be carefully removed, as they tend to en- 
gender mouldiness and decay. The surface of the mould in 
the pots should also be frequently and carefully stirred, but 
not deep, for fear of injuring the roots which are nearest to 
the surface. A few small pebbles, sand-stone chips, or oyster- 
shells, placed on the surface of the pots, will greatly tend to 
prevent dampness, which is all that has to be guarded against 
in the cultivation of this charming flower at this season, and 
until vegetation commences in spring. 



ALPINE PLANTS IN POTS. 

Many oi the more delicate Alpine plants should now be 
placed in the Alpine pits or frames, where they are to be win- 
tered, as the season is now approaching when damp and a 
superabundance of rain cannot be otherwise guarded against. 
Damp is certain destruction to most plants which are natives 
of barren or rocky situations, and those in a state of culti- 
vation are more liable to its ill effects, than those which are in 
their native soils. Cultivation produces an enlargement of 
parts, which enlargement is made up of matter extremely liable 
to decay, particularly when in close and humid situations. 

It will now be necessary, therefore, to place the more rare, 
and such as are likely to be injured by much damp, in the 
frames ; but here they should not be covered, unless in times 
of rain, for if they be covered they will be drawn up weakly, 
and their vegetative powers excited at a season when they 
should be at rest. Those which are less delicate, when they 
appear too damp, should be laid over on their sides to drip 
until they be dry, and then to be replaced in an upright po- 
sition. Worms will now be troublesome to them, and to ah 
plants in pots ; they can be easily destroyed by watering the 
whole over with lime-water, or the pots in which they appear 
to be, inverted, and the plant taken out with the ball entire, 
when in most cases the worms will be detected, scarcely co- 
vered with mould. Those who arc partial to these humble 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



927 



and interesting plants, will not consider it a task to watch over 
their welfare from this time till the return of spring, when 
their attention will be amply repaid by the elegance, the per- 
fection, and simplicity of their varied blossoms. 

TRANSPLANTING PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

Continue to transplant into the borders where they may be 
required, all herbaceous plants propagated during the season, 
as they become sufficiently strong, but those which are not 
now sufficiently stout should be left till spring ; for, if they 
be now planted, they might not be sufficiently established be- 
fore the winter, unless the autumn should be mild. 

Those herbaceous plants which may have finished flower- 
ing, and may have overgrown the bounds prescribed for them, 
may be divided or reduced in size, and planted out, where they 
are to remain. 

TRANSPLANTING FLOWERING SHRUBS. 

Many hardy deciduous flowering shrubs may be planted by 
the end of the month, particularly such as may have by that 
time shed their foliage or finished their year's growth. From 
that time, till the end of March, this operation may be safely 
performed if the weather permit. 

Shrubs for particular purposes, which have been planted by 
the end of this month, or perhaps earlier, should have re- 
peated waterings given them, both at their roots and over-head, 
particularly if the season be dry and the soil light and sandy. 
By this early planting, under favorable circumstances, the 
plants will take root this autumn, and go on in spring, as if 
they had sustained no check. 

PLANTING EVERGREENS. 

Evergreens may be now planted, observing, if the weather 
be not showery, to give copious waterings at their roots, and 
also over their tops, by applying water from the garden-engine 
two or three times a-week, preferring the afternoon or evening 
for that purpose. 



928 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



GATHERING FLOWER-SEEDS. 

Continue to watch the ripening of all sorts of flower-seeds 
wliich it may be desirable to propagate in quantities, as well 
as those which are only annual or biennial. From a want of 
due attention being paid to this simple practice, our lists of 
cultivated biennials are small when compared to the number 
that exist, and that have been introduced into the country. 
Many interesting and beautiful plants belong to this denomi- 
nation, that would be an ornament to our gardens. 

A reference to the British Flower Garden, published by 
that indcfi\tigable botanist, Mr. R. Sweet, will exhibit a striking 
proof of the truth of the above assertion, as great attention 
has been paid to figure most of the biennial plants recently 
introduced, and may be considered the chief stimulus for their 
rapid introduction into all the best gardens of the kingdom. 
Many of these, however, do not freely perfect their seeds with 
us in the open air, a little assistance is therefore necessary, on 
the part of the cultivator, to perpetuate his favorite species ; 
and this can, in most cases, be completely effected by protect- 
ing some with hand-glasses after the flowers begin to fade, 
and the culture of a few others of the most tender in pots, 
where they may be taken into a pit or frame for a similar 
purpose. 



Ocf.] 



THE i'LOWER GARDEN. 



9^ 



OCTOBER. 



PLANTING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS AND ORNAMENTAL TREES. 

Trees and shrubs of all sorts may be successfully planted 
from this time till the end of March, avoiding frosty weather ; 
and ground intended to be planted should now be got ready 
by trenching, &c. 

PLANTING EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The planting of evergreen trees and shrubs may be pro- 
ceeded with successfully, attending to the directions already 
given, in watering and supporting them, particularly those 
which are of considerable size, in order that the winds of 
autumn and winter may not blow them about, which will com- 
pletely prevent them from making fresh roots, or destroy 
those which are in the process of being made. Each tree 
should, immediately after planting, be neatly and firmly sup- 
ported, by placing one or more stakes in the ground, and in- 
clining them inwards to its stem or to its principal branches. 
To prevent the friction from destroying the bark, pieces of 
old matting or pads of hay-bands should be used to place 
between the tree and the supports ; these should be firmly 
tied with new tarred cord, in order to keep the whole steady ; 
but, notwithstanding this support, they should occasionally be 
gone over and examined, that they may not be loosened at 
their root, as well as that the supports do not press too much 
upon the stem of the trees, by which the bark would be in- 
jured. As each tree is planted, it should have a potful of 
water given it at its roots, or more or less, according to the 
size of the tree and moisture of the ground. 

PLANTING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

Herbaceous plants may now be planted either from the 
reserve garden, or s»i^h plants as have overgrown their allotted 

6 c 



930 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Oc/. 

spaces iTvay be reduced in size, and the pieces taken oflf and 
planted out where they are to remain. 

PLANTING BULBOUS ROOTS. 

Any time this month, bulbous roots of all kinds may be 
planted with success. Those who cultivate these flowers to a 
considerable extent, either for amusement or profit, have dif- 
ferent seasons for planting, so as to prolong the season of 
flowering to a greater length of time. But, for general pur- 
poses, October, November, February, and March, are gene- 
rally chosen. 

Bulbous-rooted plants differ in their mode of cultivation 
from most other plants, inasmuch as the majority of plants, 
when once planted, remain to occupy the same space for some 
Icnoth of time, some for years and others during their lives ; 
whereas bulbs, for the most part, require to be taken up once 
every other year, and all the most valuable ones, annually. 
The reason assigned for this difference of cultivation is, that 
most bulbs multiply ^exceechngly fast, that is, great numbers 
of young bulbs originate under ground, from the sides of the 
parent bulb, and in a short time would send up a superfluous 
number of stems, much more than could be properly nourished 
on the area on which they grow ; and these would, as a con- 
sequence, choke each other, and finally decay. Other species 
of bulbous-rooted plants form their young bulbs under the 
parent one, and thus, in the course of a few years, recede so 
far from the surflice, that they are unable to penetrate through 
the depth of mould over them, and, as a consequence, cease 
to appear ; while others, which form their new bulbs over the 
parent ones, at last come above the surface, and are killed by 
frosts, droughts, and other causes. 

Florists, who are the best managers of these matters, take 
up their most valuable varieties annually ; and the superin- 
tcndants of flower gardens content themselves with taking up 
the least valuable, or what are termed border-flowers, once in 
two, three, or even four years, unless the place occupied with 
bulbs be intended to be occupied with something else during 
dieir season of inactivity. 



Oct.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



931 



All bulbs may be with propriety taken up when their leaves 
wither and decay, but not sooner ; for, if a bulb be dis- 
turbed while its leaves are making, or before it shows evident 
signs of being ripe, it is very much injured, and often entirely 
killed. The leaves of all plants serve most essential purposes, 
and the health of the majority of plants is affected, more or 
less, when these are either destroyed, taken off, or injured, and 
the bulbs, in a particular degree ; for, if these be taken off, or 
even much injured, or the bulb transplanted without sufficient 
care, so that no check be given to its growth, the bulb will be 
so much injured that it will not be in a fit state to flower the 
succeeding year, or probably for the second or third following. 

The exact time that bulbs should remain out of the ground 
is difficult to determine ; we not unfrequently see bulbs prosper 
well which are taken up one day and planted the next, while 
others of the same species may be kept out of the gi'ound for 
months, and litde difference is seen in the strength or beauty 
of their flowers. 

The object which cultivators have in view, generally, in re- 
moving bulbs for a time from the ground, is, first, to separate 
the young or small ones, for the purpose of propagation, and 
to facilitate their being planted at more regular distances ; 
and, secondly, to set the bulbs more completely at rest, and 
thereby render them considerably more excitable when again 
planted. 

Some bulbous-rooted plants propagate so rapidly, as, for 
instance, some species of OruitJiogalum, Scilla, Muscari^ 
OxaliSy AUiiim, and Iris, by throwing out so many young 
bulbs, that they really cease to send up flower-stalks. To re- 
medy this evil, they should be annually taken up, their young 
bulbs removed, and the parent, or some of the strongest ones, 
planted singly, where it is desirable that they should flower ; 
or, by sacrificing the offspring, by destroying the young leaves 
as they appear, the old bulb will send up its flower-stalk an- 
nually. Where the object is rather to increase the bulb for 
flowering than the propagation of the species, the young bulbs 
should be destroyed as soon as they are known to exist, which 
will be determined by their sending up young leaves ; these 
young bulbs should bo destroyed or displaced by clearing 



\)32 



THE PRACTICAL CiARDENER. 



away the mould carefully from round the parent bulb with the 
hand, and widi a blunt stick, or other such instrument, re- 
moved, so as not to injure the parent bulb. 

By thus sacriticing the young plants, most of that nourish- 
ment which would have gone for their support, at least while 
young, will be diverted into the parent bulb, and will be the 
cause of its flowering much stronger the same season, and of 
collecting additional strength for that of the succeeding one. 
Florists, where the saving of seeds is not an object, always 
pinch oir the flower soon after it begins to decay, so that 
it may not tend to rob the bulb of an uimecessary degree of 
food. 

The method of propagation by dividing the roots, is, by 
separating the young offsets from the i)arent ; bulbs are also 
propagated by seeds, but this is chiefly done with a view to 
obtain new or valuable varieties, and is chiefly the province of 
the amateur florist. Cultivators, in general, being content to 
})urchase new varieties of them, employ no other mode of 
t)ropagation but that of separating the bulbs. 

Bulbs in general succeed best in a light rich sandy soil ; 
but those who are high in the fancy of bulb growing, employ 
strange mixtures for their best beds of flowers. Each sort of 
bulb they consider rtHpiires a soil peculiar to them. We will 
not enter into the detail of those soils and mixtures recom- 
mended by those who make the flowering of a tulijj or a /if/a- 
cintli a subject of mystery, being perfectly convinced that all 
their boasted properties, when once exposed, will be found ot 
little value. The rational cultivator will be content to employ 
much fewer and more reasonable ingredients in the preparation 
of his beds. 

HYACINTHS. 

For the cultivation of this flower, the Dutch have long been 
notorious, and probably in the first instance as a matter of 
amusement, have for many years made the propagation of the 
hyacinth a considerable article of commerce. It appears, that 
double hyacinths were not known until the beginning of the 
last century ; for, before that time, single ones only were 
grown. The first double flower of this kind is said to have 



Oct.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



933 



been originated by Peter Voerhelm, but it is now lost. The 
same individual soon after raised the variety called the king 
of Great Britain, which was long sold for the sura of one 
hundred pounds sterling, a great price in those days, and is 
supposed to be the oldest variety of double hyacinth in ex- 
istence. Instances have occurred of the price of one bulb 
being as much as two hundred pounds ; such prices, however, 
are not now given, the taste for bulbs having in a great mea- 
sure given place to plants of a different description. 

In the cultivation of this flower, the Dutch still excel us, 
and supply us annually with dried bulbs, which are sold by 
the nurserymen, the more common kinds at from forty to sixty 
shillings per hundred, the better sorts at from one to ten 
shillings per root, and there are only a very few of the most 
rare that are rated at more than ten pounds per root. 

Some of the Haerlem florists, who are the most noted in 
Holland, use a soil for their best bulbs comprised of the fol- 
lowing ingredients. 

Two sixth-parts of grey sand, not sharp, but handling 
smooth and a little greasy, two sixth-parts of well-rotted cow- 
dung, one-sixth of tanners' bark that has been used in the 
forcing-houses, or otherwise rotted to mould ; one-sixth vege- 
table mould of well-rotted tree-leaves. These materials are 
mixed and blended in a fully-exposed place, often turned 
over, so that all parts of it may be well and equally exposed 
to the rays of the sun, and when used, it is well broken with 
the spade, but never sifted, which, they justly observe, would 
render it less porous, both for the free filtration of watei' as 
well as for the more ready penetration of the fibres. 

They calculate that soil thus prepared will last about six or 
seven years ; they do not, however, plant hyacinths in the 
same bed two successive years, but use such beds for other 
bulbs in the alternate years, nor do they plant hyacinths in 
this compost the first year after its preparation, for fear of 
their being injured by the fresh manure. 

Soils have been formed of materials as nearly corresponding 
to those above as could be attained, but the success of our 
cultivation in this country has never equalled that of the 
Haerlem cultivators. With us many varieties degenerate in 



931 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[OoL 



two or three years, but the Dutch gardeners have preserved 
them for nearly a century. 

In making up their beds, the Haerlem florists choose a 
shehered situation, exposed only to the south ; and, in the 
formation of them, they excavate the natural soil to the depth 
of two feet, the whole length and breadth of the bed or beds ; 
this being removed, they then dig and finely break the mould 
in the bottom of the bed to the depth of nine or twelve inches 
more. This space they fill with the above compost, and some- 
times with the following: — One-third coarse sea or river 
sand, one-third fresh sound earth, one-fourth rotten cow- 
dung, completely reduced to mould, and vegetable mould, 
of decayed tree-leaves, for the remainder. They mix and 
incorporate these ingredients, and about a fortnight before 
the bulbs are to be planted, they fill up the bed with the com- 
post to about four inches above the level of the natural ground, 
on the south-side, and about ten inches above it on the north 
side, so that the bed, when finished, will present an inclination 
to the sun, and admit of all superfluous water passing ofl'. 

Their season of general planting is from the middle of this 
month to the middle of the next, and is performed in the fol- 
lowing manner : — Before planting the roots, the surface of the 
bed is covered with a thin layer of sandy earth raked smoothly 
over it, on which they mark out, with great regularity, the 
exact situation of each bulb. Round, and under each root, 
they place a little clean sand, which prevents the mould ad- 
hering too closely to them. The whole being planted, they 
cover the whole surface of the bed to the depth of three or 
four inches with fine sandy mould, leaving the bed, when 
finished, about eight inches above the ground-level in front, 
and fourteen inches behind. In the disposal of the bulbs in 
the bed they are at much pains, mingling the colors so that 
they may produce an agreeable and striking contrast. 



HYACINTHS FOR FORCING. 

This is a good time to pot these bulbs for being forced 
during the winter and early in the spring; for this purpose, 
narrow deep pots should be procured, which should be filled 



Oct] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



935 



with light rich sandy mould, into which the bulbs should be 
planted about half, or rather more, of the bulb being under the 
mould. When the bulbs are large and sound, one may be 
enough for one pot, but if they be small, and apparently 
weak, two or three may be placed in each pot. When planted, 
the whole should be placed on a dry level surface, and covered, 
to the depth of six or ten inches, with decayed tanners' bark, 
rotten leaves, or fine sand. They will, in such situations, soon 
emit fibres, and the pressure of matter above them will pre- 
vent them from being forced out of the pots, which would in 
many cases occur if they were not thus covered. From this 
situation they are to be taken as wanted, and placed in a 
slight bottom-heat in frames or pits ; taking the first set into 
heat, say in November, and they will be fine in bloom at 
Christmas. 

PLANTING HYACINTHS IN THE FLOWER BORDERS. 

The more common varieties of hyacinths, which are to be 
planted in the borders of the flower garden, will succeed well 
if planted at this season, where they are to remain to flower. 
The only preparation that is necessary for them is to loosen 
the spot where each patch of two or three bulbs is to be 
planted, to the depth of a foot. If the soil be strong and damp, 
a little sea or river sand may be added to it, to render it more 
light ; but, in any ordinary good flower garden soil, the more 
hardy varieties will succeed perfectly w^ell. 

PLANTIiNG TULIPS. 

According to our previous observations respecting hyacinths, 
the Dutch have also been long celebrated for their skill in the 
cultivation of the tulip. This flower, although it reached this 
country probably nearly as soon as it reached Holland, still 
our earlier gardeners did not attend to its cultivation with that 
enthusiasm which characterized their neighbours on the con- 
tinent. It is supposed to have reached Europe in 1559, and we 
are informed that it was cultivated in England so soon after as 
1577. It became an article of considerable trade in the Ne- 
therlands about the middle of the seventeenth century ; and to 



9;3G THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Oct, 

such an extreme was a love for this plant carried, that between 
*bur and five hundred pounds have been given for a single root. 
A Scotchman, it is reported, was once so enraptured with it, 
that he resided for a long time at Rome, in an uncomfortable 
dwelling, to enjoy his passion for this flower ; and to such an 
extreme did he carry his care of them, that he is said to have 
placed two fierce dogs as guards over his tulip beds. 

Tulips, like all other bulbous-rooted plants, like a deep, 
rich, light sandy soil, but they will grow very well in most 
ordinary garden soil that is not too damp nor heavy. The tulip 
gi'owers make choice of an open airy situation for their principal 
beds ; and Hogg of Paddington, an enthusiastic cultivator of this 
flower, recommends a soil of a fresh rich sandy loam, which 
has been at least twelve months dug and exposed to the air 
previously to using, moderately enriched with well-rotted dung. 
In forming the beds, florists excavate the natural soil, the 
whole length and breadth of the intended bed, to the depth of 
twenty inches or two feet, which they fill up with the prepared 
mould, leaving the bed when finished somewhat convex. Upon 
the bed, finished in that manner, they mark, at regular dis- 
tances, about seven inches apart, the situations for the bulbs, 
which are planted from two to three inches deep. 

RANUNCULUSES AND ANEMONIES. 

In dry light soils, ranunculuses and anemonies may be now 
planted, but in soils and situations which are wot and cold, it 
is better to defer planting till the end of January or the be- 
ginning of February. Where these flowers are cultivated in 
beds, soils may be formed suitable for them, and in such case, 
this month or the following is the best time for their planting, 
as the roots will have more time to vegetate and form them- 
selves, and will generally flower stronger than those which 
are planted later in autumn or early in spring. Florists prefer 
a soil much sti'onger for their beds of ranunculuses and ane- 
monies than for any of their other flowers. A correspondent 
in the Ilort. Trans, uses a stiff clayey loam, with a fourth-part 
rotten dung. The bed, he recommends, should be prepared 
to the depth of eighteen inches or two feet, and not much 



Oct,] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



937 



elevated above the gi'ound-level, that it may the better resist 
the drought. In forming the bed, a stratum of well-rotted 
cow-dung should be placed about five inches under the sur- 
face, and well mixed with the mould below that depth ; but 
the earth above this stratum, into which the roots are to be 
planted, should be kept perfectly free of dung, which would 
be injurious rather than otherwise to the roots of the plants. 
The fibres of the plants, which are the organs that collect 
nourishment, will derive sufficient support from the dung at 
this depth, but if placed deeper would be out of their reach, 
and would not receive so much advantage from the air, which 
is held to be of much consequence. 

The roots should be planted in lines, either across the bed 
or longitudinally, and be not planted deeper than about two 
inches, and about five inches distant from each other, or less 
if the roots be small. The better way is to draw drills of that 
depth, into which the roots should be placed, sprinkling a 
little clean coarse sand into the drill previously to placing the 
roots in it. 

JONQUILS. 

These flowers will succeed well in a soil similar to that 
above recommended for ranunculuses and anemonies. They 
should be planted five or six inches apart, and about three 
inches deep. As jonquils do not flower so well the first season 
after planting, they are therefore generally left in the ground 
for three, four, and even five years, without being taken up. 

BULBOUS IRISES. 

The earlier in the month that bulbous Irises be planted, 
the stronger will they flower the following summer ; those 
which are not planted till spring or late in autumn, seldom 
flower well, if at all, the season following. They should be 
planted (if in beds) at eight inches or a foot apart in light rich 
earth. Bulbous Irises are not taken annually up, once in 
three or foui' years being considered the better practice. 

6 D 



938 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct. 



NARCISSUSES. 

A light sandy soil is well adapted for the cultivation of 
thesd flowers, moderately enriched with very old cow-dung. 
As they do not flower well the season after planting, they are 
therefore seldom taken up oftener than once in four or five 
years, and that only to separate the bulbs which they may 
have made. The earlier in the month that they are planted 
the better. 

LILIUMS. 

All the species of this beautiful family deserve a place in 
the flower garden ; the more common sorts, such as the Z. 
candidum, L. hulb'tferum, L. martagon, Sec, will grow in 
almost all situations and soils in the flower borders, or m the 
shrubberies even under the shade of trees. The more va- 
luable species, such as L. canadense, L. jcqjonicun?, and 
L. i)1ii((i^ielphicum, require more attention, and will repay any 
care that may be taken of them by the beauty of their flowers. 
These are rather tender to stand out with safety in our flower 
borders during the winter ; they should, therefore, be planted 
in the most favorable situations, and protected during winter 
with a hand-glass, as well as the surface of the ground round 
their roots covered with coal-ashes, to resist the effects of 
damp and also to exclude the frost ; or they may be planted 
in deep pots, known by the name of bulb-pots, and removed 
during winter into the green-house or into pits. But bulbous 
plants of their size seldom flower so well in pots as when 
planted out, for want of sufficient scope for their fibres, which 
extend themselves much beyond the limits of ordinary-sized 
pots. Some cultivators, however, succeed in flowering them 
in pots ; such as Griffin, of South Lambeth, whose success in 
flowering the LUiujn japonlcum in pots has been complete. 
The pots he uses are of the size called twenty-fours, and the 
mould in which he plants the roots is composed of about two- 
thirds peat and one-third loam, the bottom of the pots being 
well di'ained ; the bulbs are placed not more than an inch 



Oct.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



939 



below the surface of the mould in the pots ; during winter he 
protects them in a green-house or garden-frame, but he prefers 
the former. Much might be done in the cultivation of many 
plants hitherto kept in the green-house, particularly such as 
are herbaceous, and bulbous ones in particular, in the open 
borders of our flower gardens, where the situation is favorable 
and the superintendant possessed of zeal and activity. Bor- 
ders might be prepared for their reception in sheltered and 
warm situations, and during winter protected with a portable 
frame constructed for the purpose ; but even common garden- 
frames and lights placed over such borders, and occasionally 
protected from severe frosts, will be found sufficient. Such 
borders should present a considerable slope to the south, and 
be completely drained at the bottom. 



ALPINE PLANTS IN POTS. 

By the beginning of this month, all the collection of Alpme 
or other rare and curious plants in pots, should be placed in 
their winter quarters. The most general way of protecting 
these plants, is by placing them under common garden-frames 
and lights in a dry airy situation, where they remain till the 
return of spring, being carefully protected from excess of 
moisture as well as intense frosts. 

As these beautiful and diminutive plants are an ornament 
to the flower garden during summer, while arranged in their 
summer station, and as so many of them are evergreen, they 
may also become an ornament to it during the winter also, 
when placed in a proper point of view. In our practice we 
have had a pit constructed in the flower garden, which served 
a double purpose, being the abode of a collection of these 
plants during winter, and when these were put out in spring 
it was filled with the more showy species of Mesembryan^ 
themums planted out in it, which flowered beautifully till 
killed by the first autumnal frosts, at which time it was again 
filled with the Alpine plants, plunged into finely-sifted coal- 
ashes. The walls of this pit were constructed of rock-work, 
which was planted with rock-plants, and was soon compl'.tely 



UiO THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Ocf, 

covered. Nothing appeared during summer of a pit, when the 
whole was covered with plants. The wooden wall-plates and 
rafters were removed as soon as the Mesembryanthemums had 
established themselves, and were only replaced in autumn, 
when the others were placed into it ; the lights, &c. were 
used during summer for other purposes. In this pit, which 
was elevated about a foot in front and two feet behind, we 
cultivated for three years one of the richest private collections 
of these interesting plants probably ever brought together in 
this country. 

At first sight there will appear something incongruous in 
placing a pit in any part of a well-arranged flower garden, 
but as rock-work and similar things are admitted sometimes, 
though rarely, in imitation of rocky strata or mountains in 
miniature, but for the most part with a view to form a proper 
situation for plants which are natives of rocky soils to grow 
in, we can see no difficulty nor objection in constructing and 
arranging a rock- work so as to be capable of being rendered 
a fit receptacle for such plants during the winter. But as 
many, and by for the greater part of the rarer species of 
these plants, can only prosper in a low temperature, their re- 
moval to a shaded cool spot during the heats of our summer 
becomes necessary, and will of course leave a space unoccupied. 
Few plants, therefore, can be brought in as substitutes that 
will have a better effect than the genus in question. Their 
rapid growth, and capability of withstanding our hottest suns 
without requiring much water, fits them in a particular degree 
for such a purpose. 



Nov.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



941 



NOVEMBER. 



PLANTING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS AND ORNAMENTAL TREES. 

All kinds of deciduous shrubs and ornamental trees may be 
now planted, if the weather and soil be not too wet, in such 
cases it is better to defer this operation till February or March. 
In light dry soils, planting should even be gone on with 
in times of moderate rains, or until the ground be so wet as 
to adhere to the spade, which may almost be considered a safe 
criterion to go by. 

PLANTING EVERGREENS. 

Evergreen trees and shrubs may be planted in sheltered 
situations ; great care being taken that the plants be removed 
with good balls, and that they be not kept out of the ground 
for any length of time. In times of gentle showers, evergreens 
may be planted, but it is not advisable to remove them in 
limes of frosts, nor cold-cutting winds. 

PREPARING SHRUBS FOR FORCING. 

Where it is intended to force flowering-shrubs for the draw- 
ing-room, they should now be carefully taken up, injuring the 
roots as little as possible, and carefully potted into suitable 
sized pots, observing that it is always desirable that the pots 
should be as small as possible, in order that they may be the 
more readily disposed of when taken into the house. As the 
plants are only intended to perfect their flowers in the pots, 
their dimensions may be much less than if it were intended for 
them to gi'ow in them for any length of time. The chief nou- 
rishdnent of plants forced for this and similar purposes should 
be water, therefore smaller pots may be used, than is usually 
the case ; and during the time the plants remain in the pots, 
attention should be paid to give this element in abundance. 



942 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Nov. 



The shrubs most successfully forced are Persian and com- 
mon lilacs, mezerion, s}Tinga, honeysuckles, dwarf-almond, 
Erica /terbacia, Azalia pontica, and other varieties ; Rhodo- 
dendrons of sorts, roses, &c. 

Plants of common and Persian lilacs may be successfully 
taken up of any size, and planted in tubs or large boxes ; the 
former, if it be desirable, may be removed into such boxes of 
any size or age. In selecting plants for this purpose, choice 
should be made of such as are of handsome shapes, and which 
have the appearance of plenty of flowering-buds. When 
potted, they should be placed in a dry situation ; those which 
are in smaller pots plunged up to the tops of the pots in dry 
light mould, saw-dust, or coal-ashes. The larger plants, in 
tubs or boxes, need not be plunged, but covered round with 
littery matter to exclude both frost and drought. In such 
situations they should all remain, until they be removed into 
the green-house or forcing-pits. 

GRASS LAWNS. 

Worms will now be throwing up their lumps on the lawns, 
which gives them a disagreeable appearance ; recourse, there- 
fore, should be had to lime-water, with which they should be 
well and regularly watered, which will bring up the worms to 
the surface, and at the same time destroy them. Tlys lawns 
should be frequently swept and rolled, that is, at least once a- 
week during the autumn and winter months, which will render 
the surfiice more smooth and pleasant to walk upon. Mowing 
should be continued as long as the grass continues to grow, 
and in all cases left closely mown, when that operation is dis- 
continued for the season. 

GRAVEL WALKS. 

Weeds will be still making their appearance, and should Ix 
destroyed by continued hoeing and raking ; or, if the walks be 
hard and well bound together, they should be hand-picked. 
For the destruction of the various species of Conferva, Hyp- 
num, and other cryptogamic plants, nothing is so effectual as 



Nov.] 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



943 



hoeing and raking in dry days. But, when walks become 
very much overgrown with these plants, it is better to dig 
them up, and thereby present a new surface, which should be 
rolled down soon after the operation of turning the gravel is 
performed. 

PLANTING BULBOUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

Such of these as were not planted last month should now be 
done, and those which were planted, upon the appearance of 
frost should be covered over with straw, or with canvas, or 
mats, suspended on hoops, over the beds : or, the beds may 
now be entirely covered, three or four inches thick, with saw- 
dust, which may remain on them till all danger of severe frosts 
is over, or until the plants are beginning to be too much 
drawn by it, when it may be cleared off a little round each 
plant, so as to admit air sufficient to prevent the plant from 
being drawn up weak. 

PLANTING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

Most of the hardy and more common herbaceous plants 
may now be planted, either from the reserve-garden or from 
such plants as may have overgi'own their prescribed limits, 
and are in want of being reduced in size. Plants, planted at 
this season, will flower much stronger than those which are 
not planted till spring. 

POTTING HERBACEOUS PLANTS FOR FORCING. 

ISuch herbaceous plants as are intended to be forced for the 
drawing-room, should now be potted. As was observed in 
potting shrubs for a similar purpose, pots as small as possible 
should be used, and dependance placed upon a sufficient sup- 
ply of water for their nourishment. 

ALPINE PLANTS IN POTS. 

If any of the Alpine plants in pots have not been pl?.ced in 
their winter-quarters, that should now be done, to prevent the 



944 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. \NoV. 

pots from being broken by the expansion of frost, as well as 
the pLints being injured by too much moisture. Those which 
were placed under cover last month should now be frequently 
looked over, and all dead or decaying leaves or stems removed, 
as well as all mouldiness upon the surface of the mould in the 
pots : any thing tending to encourage decay should be care- 
fully removed. Many of the more rare species should have 
the sm'face of the mould in the pots covered with fine sharp 
sand, or small fragments of porous stone or brick-bats, to act 
as absorbers of superabundant moisture. The glasses or 
covers should now be kept on during damp and wet days, and 
almost always during night, in order more effectually to guard 
against damp or too much moisture, of which most Alpine 
plants, in a state of cultivation, are impatient in autumn and 
winter. 

DRESSING THE BORDERS IN THE ELOW^ER GARDEN. 

The flower garden borders should now be dug over, and 
the surface, where there are not plants the roots of which 
might be injured by frost, left as rough as possible, so that 
the frost and weather may have the more power to act upon it, 
in order to render it more friable and in better condition for 
planting the following year. 

TAKING UP DAHLIAS. 

By the beginning of the month the frost will most probably 
have cut up the dahlias, which they cannot resist for any 
length of time ; indeed they are amongst the first plants which 
bear evidence of the frosts of the preceding night. Being 
natives of ]\Iexico, it is necessary that we protect their roots 
from the attacks of frost. When the stems are destroyed, 
they should be cut down and removed ; the roots should be 
left in the ground, when it is not intended that they should be 
taken up for the purpose of dividing or transplanting, as expe- 
rience proves that roots left in the ground produce their flowers 
earlier the succeeding season (which with this plaiU is a desi- 
deratum) than if they were taken up and preserved in a house 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



945 



all winter. To prevent the frosts from injuring the roots left 
in the ground, they should be covered all winter with coal- 
ashes, saw-dust, or littery dung, sufficiently thick to prevent the 
frost from incrustating the ground beneath. Many cultivators 
take the roots up, and pack them amongst dry mould ; while 
others take them up and place them upon shelves, or other- 
ways dispose of them till the season for planting. Others 
bury them in pits, like potatoes, or pack them in ridges in 
cellars amongst sand, or cover them with straw. It is im- 
portant that they be disposed of, in whatever way they may be 
kept, so that they may be preserved sufficiently moist to main- 
tain the living principle, but not so moist as to hazard their 
being rotted, nor yet injured by frost. 

During winter, but particularly during the first few weeks 
after they are taken up, they should be often carefully ex- 
amined, as they are more likely to become rotten when first 
taken into the house, than afterwards. It is of little conse- 
quence how or where they are kept during winter, so that they 
be dry and secured from fi'ost. In advising that they be kept 
in the ground during winter, we are aware that we deviate in 
opinion from that of cultivators in general ; however, we do 
not offer this opinion as being our own exclusive practice, as 
many cultivators adopt the same, and have come to the same 
conclusion, namely, that they produce their flowers much 
sooner and stronger. In order to prevent their becoming too 
bulky in the plant, a circumstance which follows this practice, 
we prune off all the shoots as they come up, except one, two, 
or three at most, according to circumstances, and continue 
this pruning during their whole growth, so as to model them 
into what size or form we choose. 



6e 



DIG THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [DfC, 



DECEMBER. 



PLANTING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS AND ORNAMENTAL TREES. 

The planting of these may be gone on with while the wea- 
ther is fiivourablc, that is, when it is neither frosty nor too 
wet, in either case, tlie planting of them had better be defer- 
red till February or March. 

PROTECTING TENDER PLANTS. 

Many tender ornamental shrubs and plants, which stand our 
summers, and ornament our gardens, require protection from 
our winters. Of these may be enumerated many plants 
hitherto treated as green-house plants, which the zeal of the 
cultivator may wish to acclimate, or to render sufficiently hardy 
to stand our variable climate by inuring them, by progressive 
degrees, to stand in the open air. The most likely situations 
for such experiments are those which are sheltered by nature, 
and where the soil is either naturally or artificially chry. 
Plants originated from seeds ripened in our green-houses, 
are to be preferred in the first instance, and gi'cat care taken 
to protect, by artificial means, those plants in the open air, 
until they have perfected seeds. Plants originated from such 
seeds are supposed to be more likely to stand unprotected, 
and so in proportion is the progeny of each succeeding gene- 
ration. Those plants which annually die down to the ground 
are the most likely to be acclimated by this or any other 
means, and a slight protection of their roots may be considered 
sufficient. But those plants, which rank as shrubs or trees, 
are not so easily protected during winter, and should be planted 
on warm sheltered walls, or in sheltered places in the shrub- 
bery, where, in either case, they can be partially protected by 
sticking a few fern-fronds or branches of trees round them, or 
entirely covered with mats or portable cases during severe 
frosts. The roots of all tender plants should be particularly 



Dec, I 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 



91'; 



protected, either by covering the ground round them with lit- 
tery dung, saw-dust, or coal-ashes. Where valuable or exotic 
plants may have been planted and trained against walls, which 
may be considered as an intermediate station between the 
green-house and shrubbery, they should be protected at their 
roots ; and the more effectually to secure them, a portable 
glass-case might be made use of, which would sufficiently pro- 
tect them till the return of spring. Such a compartment for 
the cultivation of many interesting shrubs and trees, too tender 
to stand unprotected with us, is much wanted; and indeed 
portable conservatories of different sizes would have their uses. 
All plants in pots should now be removed into cold frames or 
pits before the first attacks of frost, as, if left unprotected, 
many of them would be destroyed, although hardy enough of 
themselves to resist extreme cold when planted in the natural 
ground. While in such situations, they should have plenty of 
air admitted daily, and only protected during nights and on 
very severe days with glasses or reed-mats, which will effectually 
protect them from cold, as well as heavy rains and snow. 

ALPINE PLANTS IN POTS. 

Continue to look over the collection of these plants, in 
order that all appearance of decay may be removed, and that 
they may not suffer either from an excess of moisture or be- 
come too dry, which would, in either case, be extremely in- 
jurious to them. 

AURICULAS, CARNATIONS, &C. IN POTS. 

The more valuable auriculas, carnations, &c., in pots, should 
be often looked over, and all dead or decaying leaves removed, 
and care taken that they suffer not from a superabundance of 
moisture. Traps should be set, or other means used, to pro- 
tect or rid them from the attacks of mice and other enemies, 
which swarm round protected frames at this season. 

BULBOUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

Such of these as were not covered last month, should be 
now done early in this month, for severe frosts will be found 



948 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Dec. 



injurious to tliem. They will also require to be protected 
against the attacks of mice, which will burrow to their roots 
and destroy them. 

DRESSING THE FLOWER BORDERS AND SHRUBBERY. 

All vacant spaces should now be rough dug in the flower 
garden beds or borders where there are no plants, and all 
those borders which are planted that have not been dug should 
be neatly and carefully pointed over, taking care not to injure 
any of the plants in the process. If the hint be attended to 
which we have already given, of driving a wooden label or peg 
at the side of each plant, so that it be level with the surface, 
it will be a guide in pointing over the borders, as well as a 
mark to proceed by in planting. 

The digging over of flower garden borders at this time, not 
only gives this department an appearance of order and neatness 
during winter, when there is little else to attract the eye, but 
it actually saves much time and trouble in the spring, when 
the gardener is usually busy ; independently of which, it is 
attended with advantages, such as turning up the eggs or 
larvae of insects, and even many of them, while in their torpid 
state, can be picked up by the birds. It ameliorates strong 
stiff' soils, and renders them capable of being easier put into 
neat order in the spring. It admits the rain and snow to pe- 
netrate to the bottom of the borders, and to deposit certain 
salts beneficial to the growth of plants, and in fine, it gives a 
character of keeping to the whole that the hard beaten surface 
never can present 



949 



SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE 

OF 

HARDY DECIDUOUS TREES, 

ORNAMENTAL AND USEFUL. 



[^The Figures denote ihe height in feet which each attains under favorable circumstancea.j 



Acacia. 

Julibrissiu, 20 to 30. 
Acer. 

Montana, 20—30. 
Negundo, 20—30 
Lobatum, 2-j — 35 
Rnbrum, 20—2.5. 
Platanoides, 40—60. 

Var. Lac 1)1 lata, 30—40. 
Pseudo-platanus, 50 — 60. 

Var. Argentius, 30 — 40. 

Var. Auria, 30—40. 
Saccharinum, 40 — 50. 
Opulus, 50—60. 
Dasycarpum, 20 — 30. 
Pensylvanicnm, 26 — 35. 
Hybridum, 20—30. 
Campestre, 20—30. 
Tartaricum, 25 — 35. 
JEscvhvs. 

Hippocastanum, 30 — 40. 
Pavia, 20—25. 
Rosea, 20 -30. 
Flava, 20—30. 
Discolor, 15, 20. 
Ohiocnsis, 20—2.5. ■ 
Ailantiius. 

Glaudulosa, 20—30. 
Alni's. 

Glutinosa, 20—30. 

Var. Laciniafa, 20—30. 

Var. Quercifolia, 20—30. 
Oblongata, 20—30. 



Amygdalus. 

Communis, 20 to 30. 
Betula. 

Nigra, 50—80. 

Populifolia, 30—40. 

Excclsa, 50 — 60. 

Daurica, 30—40. 

Alba, 40—00. 

Lenta, 50—70. 

Lutea, 40—50. 
Castanea. 

Vesca, 40—60. 

Var. Auria, 20—30. 
Var. Argent ia, 20—30. 
Var. Hctrophylla, 20—30 

Americana, 40 — CO. 
Carpinus. 

Betulus, 30—35. 

Americanus, 35—40. 

Orientalis, 20—30. 
Cephalanthus. 

Occidentalis, 20—30. 

COMPTONIA. 

Asplcnifolia, 20—30. 
Celtis. 

Australis, 40—50. 

Occidentalis, 20—30. 
Cercis. 

Siliquastrum, 20 — 30. 
Catalpa. 

Syringifolia, 20—30. 
CupaESsvs. 

Distica, 3() — 10. 



950 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



V'T rc C TT Q 


Laciniata, 20 to 30. 


Laburnunij 30 to *10. 


Nigra, 20 — 30. 


DiOSPVKOS. 


Odoratissima, 20 — 30. 


Virginiana, 20 — 30. 


Germaiiica, 20 30. 


Lotus, 20 — 30. 


MORUs. 




Alba, 30—40. 


Sylvatica, 50— -80, 


Nigra, 30—40. 


Var. Purjmria, 30 — 10. 


Pints. 


Fcrniginca, 'lO— oO 


Larex, .00 — 100. 


Fraxinus. 


Pcndula, 30 — 40 


Excelsior, oO— 80. 


Microcarpa, 30 — 40. 


Var. Pcndid(u 


Platanl's. 


Americana, 20—30. 


Occideiitalis, 50—60. 


Var. Pubcscvns, 20 — 30. 


Acerifolia, 50 — GO. 


Hetrophylla, 30—40. 


Orientalis, 20 — 30. 


Quadraugulata, oO — (iO. 


POPULUS. 




Gnndiilpiitnt.i 20 30. 


Gleditsciiia. 


Trepida, 20 30. 


Trinr'inf hi»«; .'10— —10 


\rniiilir.'r'i '10 40 


Gymnocladi's. 




r-in'uiiMi^i<; *>o ;to 




J L'NGLANS. 


IIetr(>j)hylla, 20 30t 


Rcf^ia, .00 — CO 


Pcnduhi, 25 — 35. 


Alba 30 10 


Gnpfi 10 .00 


Ohva.*foniiis, 30 — 40. 


Augulata, 4.0"^55. 


r'inpr«»a 30 40 


Albi .00 GO 


Augustifulia, 30 — 10. 


'V rp 1111 1 1 n J^O-^nO 


Nigra, 30 — 10. 


Balsamifera, 25 35. 


KOELRE I'TEUIA. 


Dilatata, 50 — 60. 


Paniculata, 2»>^— 3.3. 


Cancsccns, 30 — 40. 


LlIllOUENUUON. 


Nivea, 30—40. 


Tulipifcra, 50 — GO. 


Prunls. 


Integrifulia, 50 — (iO. 


Domestica, 4.0—60. 


^Tagnolia. 


Scroti na, 30 =10. 


Acuminata, 20 — 30. 


Avium, ,00 GO , 


Cordata, 20—30. 


P.idiis 30 10 

X civilly, %J\l Xvf. 


Tripetala, 30 — 10. 


PcDsylvauica, 30—40, 




Nip-rn. 20 30 


Oxyacantha, ct vcir, 20 30. 


rrr-Usiis 40 .00 


Coccinea, 20 — 30. 


lusititia, 15 20. 


Acerifolia, 20 — 30. 


Pyrus. 


Cordata, 20 — 30. 


Angustifolia, 20 30. 


Tanacetifolia, 20 — 30 


Gomniuuis, 20—35. 


Azarolus, 20 — 30. 


Coronaria, 20 — 30. 


Apiifulia, 20—30. 


Salicifolia, 20—30. 


Flava, 20—30. 


Spcctabilis, 20—30. 


'^rus-galli, 20—30. 


Prunifolia, 20—30. 


liliptica, 20-30. 


Malus, 20—25. 


Kissa, 20—30. 


Aria, 35—40. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



951 



Torminalis, 40 to 50 
Aucupaiia, 30 — 40. 
Hybrida, 30—40. 
Cydonia, 15 — 25. 

QUERCUS. 

Alba, 40—50 
Aquatica, 40 — 50, 
Candida, 40—50. 
Hetroph} Ua, 40—50. 
Lucombeana, 50 — 60. 
Coccinea, 50 — 60. 
Turneri, 50—60. 
Montana, 50 — 60. 
Falcata, 40—50. 
Robur, 40—50. 
Pedunculata, 50—100. 
Rubra, 40—50. 
Tinctoria, 40—50. 
Palustrus, 50—70. 
Prinus, 50—60. 

ROBINIA. 

Pseudo- acacia, 40 — 50. 
Viscosa, 30—40. 



Salex. 

Capera, 30 to 40. 

Triandria, 30 — iO. 

Amygdaliua, 30 — 40. 
Salisburia. 

Adiautifolia, 20—30. 

TiLIA. 

Alba, 30—40. 
Americana, 30 — 40. 
Platyphylla, 50—70. 
Microphylla, 30 — 40. 
Ulmus. 

Americana, 40 — 50. 
Pendula, 40—50. 
Alba, 40—50. 
Montana, 40—50. 
Snberosa, 40 — 50. 
Nemoralis, 40 — 50. 
Campestris, 50 — 80. 



All of these will succeed well in any moderately good garden-ground. It is, 
however, of importance to their future welfare, that the ground be properly pre- 
pared for them, by being effectually drained, if at all wet, and trenched to the 
depth of two feet, or if to the depth of three, so much the better. 



HARDY EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Acer. 

Creticum, 2 to 4. 
Andromeda. 

Pulverulenta, 2—4. 

Polifolia, ct var. 1 — 2. 

Catesbaei, 1 — 2. 

Axillaris, 1 — 2. 

Coriacea, 1 — 2 

Acuminata, 2—4. 

CaJyculata, ct var. I — 2, 
Aristotelia. 

Macqui. 



Arbutus. 

Unedo, et var. 4 to 10. 

Laurifolia, 4 — 10. 

Andrachne 4 — 7. 

Hybrida. 

Alpina. 

Uva-ursi 

AUCUBA. 

Japonica, 4 — 7. 
Atrivlex. 

Halimus, 4 — 7. 
Portulacoides, I — 3. 



052 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Berberis. 

Aqui folium 

BUDDLEA. 

Globosa, 4 to 7. 

BUPLEURIM. 

Friiticosum, 4 — 7. 
Ll-.m's. 

Scmpcrvircns. 

Balcarica, 4 — 10. 
Clrasls. 

T.auro cerasus, l.j — 20. 

Caroliiiiana. 

Lusitaiiica, 20—30. 

ClSTlS. 

Ladaniferus, 2 — 4. 

Laxus, 2 — 3. 

Latifolius, 2—3. 

Albidus, 1—2. 

Creticus. 

Candidissimus. 

Corbiensis. 

Hetrophyllus. 

Crispus, 1—2. 

Incanus. 

Hirsutus. 

Monspcliensis, 1—2. 

Vaginatus, 1—2. 

Parv'iflorus. 

Villosus, 2—^. 

Salvifolius, 2—3. 

Purpureus. 

Populifolius, 2—4. 

Longifolius. 

Ledon. 

Cyprius. 

Laurifolius, 2 — 4. 

^fonspeliensis, 1 — 2. 
Cneorim. 

Tricoccum, 1 — 2. 
Crat.*:gus. 

Pyracantha. 
PRifssus. 

Sempervirens, 20 — 30, 

Thyoides, 25—30 

Lusitauica, 25—30. 

IINE. 

Tarton-raira, 1 — 2. 
Collin a, 2—1. 



Lauriola, 2 to 4. 

Pontica, 2 — 4. 

Oleoides, 1—2. 

Cueonim, et var. 0. 

Hybrida, 1—3. 
Erica. 

Australis, 1 — 3. 

Mediterraiiea, 1—4. 

Miuiina, 1 — 2. 

Arborca, 3—10. 

Carnca, I. 
Eriobotrya. 

Japouica, 2—7. 

EUONYMUS. 

Amcricanus, 2 — 4. 
Gaulthera. 

Prociimbens, 0—1. 

Shallon, 0. 
Genista. 

Candicans. 
Heliantiiemum. 

Umbcllatum. 

Ocymoides. 

Canadeuse. 

Alpestrc. 

Vineale. 

Can urn. 

Toinentosum. 

Leptophyllum. 

Vulgarc. 

Serpyllifolium. 

Surrejanum. 

Crandirionim. 

Obscunim. 

Roseum. 

Vc»-i\color. 

Hyssopifolium. 

Solphurcuin. 

Vnlgatum. 

Venustum. 

Canescttus. 

Pilosum. 

Nummularium. 

Ilispidum. 

Apenninr.tn. 
Iberis. 

Sempervirens. 

Frutescens. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



953 



Ilex. 

Aquifoliiun, et var. 10 to 30. 
Cassine, 2 — 4. 
Opaca, 2 — 4. 
Perado, 2—4. 

JlNIPERUS. 

Daurica. ^ 
Sabina, 2—4. 
Glauca. 

Prostrata, 0—2. 

Communis, 10 — 20. 

Hibernica. 

Succica, 10—20. 

Virginiaua, 30. 

Phoenicea, 10—20. 

Lycia, 10—20. 
Kalmia. 

Latifolia, 2—7. 

Nitida, 2—3. 

Angiistifolia, 2—3. 

Glauca, 2—3. 
Laurus. 

Nobilis, 10—20. 
Lavendula. 

Spica, 1—2. 

Latifolia, 1—2. 
Ledum. 

Palustre, 1. 

Latifolia, 1—2. 

Buxifolia, 0—1. 

LrOUSTRUM. 

Lucidum, 2 — 7. 
Magnolia. 

Grandiflora, et var. 10 — 20. 
Longifolia, 10—20. 

OXYCOCCOS. 

Palustris, 0. 
Maci'ocarpus, 0. 
Erj'throcarpum. 
Phillyrea, (now Olia.) 
Latifolia, 2 — 10. 
Ilicifolia, 2—10. 
Obliqua, 2—10. 
AngTistifolia, 2—7. 
Oleacfolia, 2—7. 
Lajvis, 2 — 7. 
Media, 2—7. 
Pendula, 2—7. 



Phlomis. 

Purpuria, I to 3. 

Lanata, 1 — 3. 

Fruticosa, 1 — 3. 
Photinia. 

Arbutifolia. 

Sernilata. 

PiNUS. 

Nigra, 45. 
Rubra, 30. 
Alba, 80. 
Pinea, 40. 
Cembra, 50. 
Sylvestris, 30—100. 
Laricio, 80. 
Pinaster, CO. 
Strobus, 100—150. 
Abies. 

Cedrus, 70—80. 
Picea. 

Canadensis, 40. 
Pichta. 

Balsamea, 50. 
Pumilio, 6. 
Inops, 40. 
Resinosa, 50. 
Palustris, 50. 
Halapensis, 25. 
Fraseri, 30. 
Taurica, 
Mitis. 

Serotina, GO. 

Clanbrassiliana, 2 — 3. 

Lanccolata, 2o. 

Puniila, 25. 

Ta^da, 30. 

Variabillis, 35. 

Puugcns, 40. 

Rigida, 50—70. 
Polygala. 

Chamaj-buxus, 0. 
Prinos. 

Glaber, 2—3. 

QUERCUS. 

Virens, 35. 
Ilex, ct var. 35. 
Subur, 25. 
Cocci fera, 30. 



6 F 



954 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Cerris, ct var. 60. 

Laurifolia, -10. 

Gramuntia, 25. 

I^allota. 

Esculus, 35. 

Phellos, 35. 
Rhododendron 

Fernigineum, 1 to 2. 

Ilirsutiim, 1 — 2. 

Catawbieuse. 

Ponticum, ct var. 4 — 7. 

Maximum, do. 4 — 7. 

Camtschaticum. 

Panctatum, 2-^. 

Arboreum, 2 — 7. 

Hybiidiim, 2 — 4. 

Azaleoides, 1 — 3. 
Rosmarinus. 

OflScinalis, 1 — 4. 
Ruscus. 

AciileaUis, 1 — 1^. 

Laxus, 1—2. 

Hypophyllum, 0 — 1. 

Hrpoglossum, 0 — 2. 

Kasimosus. 
Salsola. 

Fruticosa, 1—2. 
Salvia. 

OfficiuaJis, 1—2. 
Santolina. 

Chamae-oyparissus. 



Taxus. 

Baccata, 2.5 to 30. 

Ilibernica, 2—10. 

Procumbens. 
Thuja. 

Occidentalis, 10—20. 

Orientalis, 10—^. 

Taiturica, 4 — 10. 

Pyramidalis. 
Vaccinium. 

Vitis-idaja, 0. 

Biixifulium, 0. 

Nitidum. 

Crassifolium, 1 — \\, 
Myrsinites, 1 — 2. 

ViBIRNUM. 

Tiuus, 4 — 7. 
Lucida, 4 — 7. 
Strictura, 4 — 7. 
Rugosum. 
Cassinifolius, 2—6. 
Yucca. 

Filimeutosa, I — 2. 
Stricta, 1 -2. 
Clauccscens, 1 — 2. 
Angustifolia, 1 — 2. 
Rufocincta, 1—2. 
Obliqua, 1—2. 
Superba, 2—6. 
Concava, 1 — 2. 
Gloriosa, 2 — 4. 



HARDY SHRUBS, 

WHICH THRIVE UNDER THE DRIP AND SHADE OF TREES. 



DECIDUOUS. 

CORNUS. CORYXUS. 

Alba. Avellana. 

Alt*irnifolia, Daphne. 

Florida. Mezereum. 
San^iinia. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



955 



EUONYMUS. 

Europeus. 
Latifolius. 
Angustifolius. 
Hypericum. 
Hirciaum. 

LlOUSTRUM. 

Vulgare. 

LONICERA. 

Symphoricarpus. 
Tartarica. 
Xylosteum. 
Mespilus. 

Tomentosa. 



DECIDUOUS—CONTINUED. 

Rosa. 

Arvinsis. 
Rubiginosa. 
Canina. 
Sempervirens. 

RUBUS. 

Occidentalis. 

Odoratus. 

Villosus. 
Sambucus. 

Nigra. 

Laciniata. 

Racimosa. 
Spir^a. 

Salicifolia. 



EVERGREEN. 

AUCUBA. 

Japonica. 
Buxus. 

Sempervirens, et var. 
Daphne. 

Laureola. 
Ephedra. 

Distachya. 

Monostachya. 
Hypericum. 

Androsaemum. 

Calycinum. 
Ilex. 

Aquefolia, et var. 

LiGUSTRUM. 

Vulgare var. pempervirens. 

PRUNUS. 

Lauro-cerasus. 
Lusitauica. 
Viburnum. 

Tiuus, et var. 



CLIMBERS, 
Which will grow under the drip of Tree*. 
Clematis. 

Vitalba. 
Hedera. 

Helix, et var. 
Lonicira, 

Periclymenum. 
Rosa. 

Arvinsis. 

Var, Scandens. 

ViNCA. 

Major. 
Minor. 

Yar.fol. varigatu, &c. 



This is an extremely useful section of plants, both for the purpose of forming 
au agreeable underwood, and for hiding unpleasant objects in situations where 
few other nlants would live. 



956 



Tin: PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



HARDY SHRUBS, 

of rapid growth, calculated to produce 
immi:dl\tk effect, &c. 



DECIDUOUS. 

COLUTEA. 

Arborcsceus. 
Frutescens. 

CORNUS. 

Alba. 
Florida. 
San guinea. 
Cytisus. 

Laburnum. 
Sessdlifoliuni. 

LiGlSTRCM. 

Vulgarc. 

PlIlLADELPIIUS. 

Corouarius. 
Rosa. 

Villosa. 

Aninsis. 
Sambuccs. 

Nigra. 
Spir.ea. 

Opulifolia. 

Salici folia. 

SVRINGA. 

Vulgari;:. 

ViBIRNUM. 

Opulus. 



EVERGREENS. 

CUPRESSUS. 

Sempervirens, 
Ilex. 

Aquifulium. 

JlNIPERUS. 

Virginiaua. 

LiGUSTRlM. 

Vulgaris rar. Sempervirens. 
Mespilcs, 

Pyracantha. 

QCERCUS. 

GramunLia. 
Prunus. 

Lauro- cerasus. 

Lusitanica. 
Rhamnus. 

Alaternus. 

SPARTIUM. 

Junceum. 
Taxis. 

Baccata. 
Thuja. 

Occidentalis. 

Orientalis. 
Ulex. 

Europeus. 



These may be planted of a large size, and so disposed that they may bo cither 
taken up or cut down, as those of greater value advance. 



THE FLOWnil GARDEN. 



1)57 



HARDY SHRUBS, 

For planting by the sides of liivers or Fonds, or in marshrj ground, ivhere 
few others would thrive 



DECIDUOUS. 

Alnus. 

Pumila. 
Betlla. 

Nana. 

Pumila. 

Siberica. 

. DiRCA. 

Palustius. 
Myrica. 

Cerifera, 

Gale. 
Salex. 

Most of the species. 



EVERGREEN. 
Ledum. 

Palustre. 
Arbutus, 

Unedo. 
Rhododendron. 

Maximum. 

Ponticum. 
Empetrum. 

Nigmm. 

OxYCOCCL'S. 

Palustrus. 
Macrocarpus, 



HARDY DECIDUOUS FLOWERING SHRUBS. 



Amelanciiier. 

Vulgaris, 4 to 7. 

Botryapium, 4-— 7. 
Amvcdalus. 

Nana, 2 — 4. 

Pumila, 2—4. 

Prosterata, 0 — 2. 
Andromeda. 

Globulifera, 2—4. 

Paniculata, 2 — 4. 

Undulata, 2—4. 

Mariana, 0 — 2. 

Cassinifulia, 2 — 4. 

Dealbata, 2—4. 

Froudosa, 2 — 4. 

Pulverulenta, 2 — 4. 

Racimosa, 2—4. 

Arborea, 7 — 10. 



Aralia. 

Spiuosa, 4 to 7. 
Aronia. 

Arbutifolia. 

Floribuuda. 

Melanocarpa, 
Artamesia. 

Absinthium, 1 — 2. 
Asimina. 

Triloba. 
Astragalus. 

Tragacanthus, 0—1. 

AZALIA. 

Pontica, 4—7. 

Var. Albijlora, 4—7. 
Tricolor, 4—7. 
Pallida, 2—4. 



958 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Caleudulacea, 2 to 4. 
Var. Grandijlura. 

Splcndcns. 

Triumphans. 

Flammea. 

Chrysolecta. 
Canescens, 2 — 4. 
Speciosa, 2 — 4. 
Var. Major. 

Undulala. 

Aurantia. 

Crispa. 

Ciliata. 
Muliflora, 2—4. 
Var. Alba. 

Alho-plcna. 

Blanda. 

Coccinia. 

Florida. 

Pum'da. 

Tricolor. 

Mirabilis. 

Carnea. 

Purpurea -plena. 
Rosea. 
Cicolor, 2—4. 
Viscosa, 2 — 1. 

Var. Odorata. 
Vittata. 
Arborcscens, 4 — 7. 
Kitida, 2 — 1. 
Glauca, 2 — 1. 
Uispida 2—1. 
Berberis. 

Vulgaris, 4—7. 
Chinensis. 
Siberica, 2 — I. 
Canadensis, 4 — 7. 
Betula. 

Nana, 2 — 4. 
Pumila, 2 — 4. 
Caragana. 

Arborescens, 7—10. 
Altagana, 2—4. 
Pygmaea, 0 — 1 • 
Fmtescens. 
Spinosa, 4—7. 
Chamlagn, 2—4. 
Redowskii, 1 —2. 



Mollis, 2 to 4. 

Halodendron, 4—7. 

Jubata, 2 — 4. 

Aranaria, 2 — 4. 

Micropbylla. 

Grandiflora. 
Calycanthus. 

Florida, 2 — '1. 

Oblongifolius. 
Cerasls. 

Nigra, 7—10. 

Padus, 10-20. 

Serotiua, 7 — 10. 

CllIMONANTIICS. 

Fragrans. 

Var. Grandijlora. 

COLL'TEA. 

Pocockii, 4 — 7. 
Nepalenses. 
Arborescens, 4—10. 
Cruenta, 2 — 4. 
Media. 
Coui.vRiA. 

Myrtifolia, 2—4. 

CORNLS. 

Florida, 2—4. 
Mascula, 7—10. 
Alteruifolia, 7 — 10. 
StricUi, 7—10. 
Alba, 7—10. 
Sanguinea, 4 — U). 
Sericia. 
Circiuata. 
Pauiculata. 

CORONILLA. 

Emerus, 4 — 7. 

COTONASTER. 

Affinis. 

Vulgaris, 2 — 4. 
Acuminata. 
Tomentosa, 4 — 7. 
Eriocarpa. 
Cytisus. 

Biflorus, 2 — 4. 
Purpureus, 2 — 4. 
Albus. 

Alpinus, 2 — 4. 
Nigricans, 2— 
Patens, 2—4. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Sessilifolius, 4 to 7. 
Scoparius, 2 — 4. 
Argentius, 2 — 4. 
Supinus, 0 — 2. 
Hirsutus, 2 — 4. 
Elongatus, 2—4. 
Calycinus, 2—4. 
Capitatus, 2 — 4. 
Daphne. 

Mezereum, 2—4. 

Var.Jlo. alba, 2 — 4. 
Altaica. 

DlERVILLA. 

Pumilis, 2—4. 

DiOTIS. 

Ceratoides. 
Eleagnds. 

Europeus, 4 — 7. 
Latifolius, 4 — 7. 
Verrucosus, 4 — 7. 
Atropiirpureus, 4 — 7. 

FOTHERGILLiE. 

Alnifolia, 2—4. 
Genista. 

Triquetra, 2 — 4. 

Radiata, 2—4. 

Pilosa, 0—2. 

Procumbens, 1 — 2. 

Lusitanica, 2 — 4, 

Hispanica, 2 — 4. 

Germanica, 2 — 4. 

Anglica, 1 — 2. 

Sericea, 2 — 4. 

Siberica, 2 — 4. 

Tinctoria, 2—4. 

Florida, 2—4. 

Prosterata, 1 — 2. 

Diflfusa, 1—2. 

Ovata, 1—2. 

Sa^ttalis, 0—1. 
Gleditschia. 

Horrida, 5—10. 

Sinensis, 5—10. 
Halesia. 

Tetraptera, 4 — 7. 

Diptera, 4 — 7. 
Halimodendron. 

Argenteum. 



Hamamelis. 

Virginica, 10 to 20. 
Helianthemum. 
Canadeuse. 
Alpestre. 
Vineale. 
Canum. 
Tomentosum. 
Grandiflorum. 
Obscurum. 
Vulgare. 
Leptophyllum. 
Pilosum. 
Serpyllifolium. 
Sarrejanum. 
Lineare. 
Nummularium. 
Mutabile. 
Roseum. 
Polifolium. 
Sulphurium. 
Hyssopifolium. 
Apenninum. 
Pulverulentum. 
Variegatum. 
Canescens. 
Venustum. 
Rhodanthum. 
Hibiscus. 

Syriacus, 2 — 4. 

Var. Albo-plena. 

Purpurea -pleTio 

Rubra. 

Alba. 

Purpureus. 

HiPPOPHiE. 

Rhamnoides, 10—20. 

Canadensis, 7—10. 
Hydrangea. 

Radiata, 4 — 7. 

Arborescens, 4 — 7. 
Hypericum. 

Audrosaimum, 4 — 7. 

Calycinum, 2 — 4. 

Prolificum, 2 — 4. 

Hircinum, 2 — 4. 
Laurus. 

Benzoin, 4 — 10. 

Sassafras, 4 — 10. 



THL PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



LiGUSTRLM. 


Frangiila, 4 to lU. 


Vulgare, 7 to 10. 


Latifoliiis, 4 — 7. 


LiQUIDAMBER. 


Rhododendron. 


Styracillua, 10—20. 


Dauricum, 2 — 4. 


Imberbe, 10—20. 


RllODORA. 


LONICERA. 


Canadensis, 2 — 4. 


Alpigeua, 4 — 7. 


Rhus. 


Coerulia, 2—4. 


Vemix, 4 — 7. 


Nigra, 2 — 4. 


Elegans, 4 — 7. 


Tartarica, 2—6. 


Typhinum, 4 — 7. 


Pyrenaica, 4 — 7. 


Glabrum, 4 — 7. 


Xylosteum. 


Cotinus, 10—20. 


Macli RA. 


Radicans, 2 — 4. 


Aurantiaca. 


Copallinum, 4 — 7. 


Magnolia. 


Toxicodendron, 4 — lOl 


Macrophylla, 4 — 10. 


Aromaticum, 2 — 4. 


Auriculata, 4 — 10. 


RiBES. 


Pyramidata, 4 — 10. 


Fioridum, 2 — 4. 


Menzesia. 


Aureum, 2 — 4. 


Ferruginea, 2 — 4. 


Alpinnm, 2 — 4. 


Globularis, 2—4. 


ROBINIA. 


Nyssa. 


Hispida, 2 — 4. 


Villosa. 


RUBUS. 


Denticulata. 


Canadensis. 


Ononis. 


Odoratns. 


Fruticosus, 1 — 2. 


SOPHORA. 


PCEONIA. 


Japonica, 4 — 7. 


Moutan, 2—8. 


Spartium. 


Var. Pnpaveracea, 2 — 4. 


Junctum, 2 — \. 


Baiiksii. 


Var.flo. pleno. 


Rosea. 


Multiflorum, 4—7, 


Paliurus. 


SPIRiSA. 


Virgatiis, 4—10. 


Laevigata, 2 — 1. 


Aculcatus, 4 — 10. 


Triloba, 2—1. 


PlIILADELniUS. 


Bella, 2—1. 


Grandiflonis, 4 — 7. 


Tomentosa, 3—6. 


Gracilis, 4 — 7. 


Salicifolia, 3 — 6. 


Coronarius, 4 — 7. 


Hypericifolia, 3 — 6. 


Inodoms, 0 — 2. 


Crenata, 2 — 4. 


POTENTILLA. 


Opulifolia, 4 — 6. 


Floribunda, 1 — 3. 


Chamaedrifoliiim, 2 — 1 


Fniticosa, 1 — 3. 


Sorbifolia, 2—4. 


Ptelea. 


Staphylea. 


Trifoliata, 2—4. 


Trifolia, 4—7. 


PUNICA. 


Pinuata, 4 — 7. 


Granatum, 2 — 4. 


Sympuoria. 


Var.flo. pleno. 


Glomerata, 2—4, 


RlIAMNlS. 


Racimosa, 2 — 4. 


Saxatilis, 0—2. 





GROOM'S RETVIBRATS'T. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



9m 



Vulgaris, 4 to 7. 

Var. Violacea, 4 — 7. 
Alba, 3—6. 
Chinensis. 
Persica, 2 — 4, 
Var. Alba. 

Laciniata. 

Tamarix. 

Gallica, 3 — i. 

Germanica, 2 — 4. 
Taxodium. 

Distichum, 2 — 4, 
Ulex. 

Europaeus, 1 — 2. 
Var.^fto. pleno. 



ViBIRNUM. 

Lautana, 7 to 10. 
Opulus, 7—10. 
Lavigatum, 7 — 10. 
Pubescens. 
MoUe. 

Nudum, 2 — 4. 
Prunifolium, 4—7. 
Dentatum, 2 — 4. 
Nitidum, 2—4 

VlTEX. 

Agnus-castus, 10 — 15. 
Zanthorhiza. 

Apiifolia, 0 — 1. 
Zanthoxylum. 

Tricarpum, 4 — 7. 

Fraxineum, 4 — 7. 



Of these, the families of Andromeda, Azalia, Rhodora, Rhododendron, Daphne^ 
Menzesia, Magnolia, and Vaccinium, require to be planted in bog or heath-mould ; 
the remainder Mdll succeed perfectly well, if planted in any moderately good 
garden ground. 



HARDY CLIMBERS. 



Ampelopsis. 

Hederacea. (white) 
Aristolochia. 

Sipho. (yellow) 

Tomentosa. 
Atragene. 

Americana. 

Siberica. (white) 

Austriaca. (blue) 

Ochotensis. 

BiGNONIA. 

Capereolata. 
Radicans. (yellow) 
Celastrus. 

Scandens. (tvhiie) 



Clematis. 

Flamula. 

Orientalis. (yellow) 

Glauca. 

Chinensis. 

Vitalba. (white) 

Virginiana. (red) 

Tridentata. (yellow) 

Dahurica. 

Diversifolia, 

Viorna. (red) 

Cylendrica. 

Simsii. 

Reticulata, (yellow) 
Florida, (white) 



962 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Var. fi( ra-pleno. {white) 


Passtflora. 


Virirplla. ( vurvle) 


Coerulia. {blue) 


Var. Purpuria. 


Colvillii. {blue) 


PulcheUa. 


Periploca. 


Cfllycinsu 


Graeca. {white) 


Crisp£i> 


Rosa. 


Cirrhosa.. 


Multiflora. {red) 


Pedicellate. 


Var. Alba, {white) 


FiF" f TTM A RT A 
Jlj c« u iji a ai a • 


Sempervirens. {white) 


Barbat£L. 


Boursoulti. {red) 


Sannentosa. 


Banksiaj. 


Hedera. 


Hyacintbina. 


Canadensis. 


RUBUS. 


Helix. 


Laciniatus. 


Jasminum. 


Fruticosus. {white) 


Humile. {tjellow) 


Var.jlo. pleno. 


Frutescens. 


Sol. varigala. 


Officinalis, {white) 


Smilax. 


Revolutum. 


Aspera. {green) 


LONICERA. 


Cadiica, 


Chinensis. 


Quadraugularis. 


Dioica. 


Bona-nox. 


Flava. (yellow) 


Lauri folia. 


Caperifolium. {yellow) 


Sarasaparilla. {green) 


Sempervirens. {red) 


Lanciolata. 


Pubescens. 


VlTIS. 


Implexa. {red) 


Rotundifolia. {green) 


Grata, {green) 


Vulpina. {green) 


Periclymcnum. {white) 


Labrusca. {green) 


Belgicuni. (V>\ite) 


Riparia. {green) 


Lycium. 


Laciniosa. {green) 


Chinense. 


Wendlandia. 


Barbatum. {red) 


Populifolia. 


Ruthenicum. 


Wisteria. 


Menispermum. 


Chinensis. 


Virginicum. {green) 


Frutescens. {yellow) 


Canadense. {green) 





The object in view being generally to obtain a large size, so as to cover 
objects either vertical or horizontal ; the soil, therefore, for climbing plants 
should be more carefully prepared than for those which compose the general 
mass of shrubs. A soil, prepared as follows, will be found to answer every ex- 
pectation, supposing that all other circumstances prove favorable : — Fresh 
maiden loam of rather a light texture, bog or heath mould, each an equal por- 
tion ; to which may be added, one-eighth of perfectly rotten dun^. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN, 



963 



FLOWER GARDEN HERBACEOUS PLANTS, 

That will stand our Climate without Protection. 



Acanthus. 
Mollis. 
Spinosus. 
Spinosissimus. 
Ilicifolius. 

ACONITUM. 

LycoctODum. 
Album. 
Variegatum. 
Japenicnm. 
Uncinatum. 
Speciosum. - 
Volubile. 
Exaltatum. 
Virgatum. 
Amaenum. 
Formosum. 
Venus turn. 
Pyramidale. 
Versicolor. 
Decorum. 
Laetum. 
Rubellum. 
Achillea. 

Grandiflora. 
Ptannica. 

Flore-pleno. 
Ageratum. 
Speciosa. 
Alpina. 
Serrata. 
•Clavenna;. 
Impatiens. 
Auria. 
Compacta. 
Asplenifolia. 
Nobilis. 
Rosea. 
Holosericea. 



Adonis. 

Vernalis. 
Apeiinina. 
Agrostemma. 
Coronaria. 
a Rubra. 
hAlba. 
c Pleno. 
Alchimilla. 
♦Pubescens. 
*Alpina. 
♦Sericea. 
*Hybrida. 
Aletris. 
Auria. 
Farinosa. 
Alyssum. 
♦Saxatile. 
♦Orientale. 
*Argentium. 
*Obtussifolia. 
*Tortuosum. 
*Vernale. 
♦Montana. 
Amaryllis. 

Belladonna. 
Ajmmobium. 

Alatum. 
Amsonia. 

Latifolia.' 
Salicifolia. 
Angustifolia. 
Anchusa. 

Paniculata. 

Italica, 
Procera. 
Androsacea. 
♦Villosa. 
*Chamaejasme 



964 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



♦Lactea. 
•Obtussifolia. 
Anemone. 

Corouaria. 

a Flore-pleno, 
Stellata. 
Palmata. 
Apennina. 
Nemerosa. 

a Flore-pleno. 
Sylvestris. 
Alba. 

Dichotoma 
Virginiana. 
Peusylvanica. 

Vid. Pulsatilla et Hepatica. 
Antirrhinum. 
Majus. 

a Coccinia. 
b Bicolor. 
c Multiples. 
Angustifolium. 
Antiiyllis. 
♦Montana. 
*Alpina. " 
♦Onobrychioides. 
•Dilleuii. 

Al'OCYNUM. 

Androsaemifoliuin. 

Hypcricifolium. 

Venetum. 
Anos. 

Tuberosa. 
Aqiilegia. 

Vulgaris. 

Canadensis. 

Atropurpurea. 

Viridiflora. 

Viscosa. 

fiiberica. 

Alpina. 

Formosa. 

Hybrida. 

Glandulosa. 

Pyrenaica. 
Arabis. 

*Pra;cox. 

*Ambigua. 

*Alpiaa. 



*Albida. 

♦Longi folia. 

♦Crispata. 

*Muralis. 

♦Stricta. 

♦Procurrens. 

•Petraea. 

♦a Hispida. 
♦b HastulaU. 

•Lyrata. 

•Stolonifera. 

♦Ovirensis. 

♦Lucida. 

•Puxnila. 

*Bellidifolia. 

•Coerulia. 

♦Collina. 
Aralia. 

Nudicaulif. 

Racimosa. 
Aretia. 

•Vi tali ana. 

*Alpina. 
Arenaria. 

♦Graminifolia. 

*Longifolia. 

•Formosa. 

•Grandiflora. 

•Ramosissima. 

•Saxatilis. 

♦Balearica. 

♦Montana. 

♦Multicaulis. 

♦Dahurica. 

•Otitoides. 

♦Verna. 
Artemisia. 

•Glacialis. 

•Rupestris. 

•Pedemontana. 

•Caucasica. 

•Spicata. 

♦Saxatilis. 

♦Glauca. 

♦Nivia. 

•Sericea. 

ASCLSPIAS. 

Tu'oerosa. 
Syriaca. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Nivea. 

Incamata. 

Rubra. 

Laurifolia. 

Amplexicanlis, 

Obtusifolia. 

Amaena. 

Pulchra. 

I^SPHODELUS. 

Fistulosus. 
Ramosus. 
Creticus. 
^stivus. 
Altaicus. 
Aster. 

♦Alpinus. 
Pulchellus. 
Praecox. 
Blandus. 
Pulcherrimus. 
Tradescanti. 
Acuminatus. 
Eminens. 
Divergens. 
Pollens. 
Alwartensis. 
Undulatus. 
Altaicus. 
Spectabilis. 
Floribundus. 
Novi-belgii. 
Mutabilis. 
Elegans. 
Versicolor. 
Bellidiflorus. 
Cyaneus. 
Grandiflorus. 
Caroliniauus. 
Novae- angliae. 
Amellus. 
Concolor. 
Multiflorus. 
Ericoides. 
Nemoralis. 
Canus. 
Astragalus. 
•Hypoglottis. 
Leucophaeus. 
Carnosus. 



•Alopecuroides. 

Alopeciais. 

Tomentosus. 
•Tragacantha. 

Longiflorus. 

Excapus. 
♦Gracilis. 
♦DiflPusus. 

Odoratus. 
•Montana. 
♦Uralensis. 

ASTRANTIA. 

Major. 

Carniolica. 

Caucasica. 

Maxima. 
•Minor. 
Belus. 

♦Sylvestris. 

♦Perennis. 

♦Hybrida. 
Bellium. 

*Minutum. 

BOCCONIA. 

Cordata. 

BORAGO. 

•Laxiflora. 
Crassifolia 
OrientaJis. 
Calceolaria. 

♦Fothcrgillii. 
Campanula. 
*Pulla. 
♦Carpathica. 
♦Rotundifolia. 
•Pumila. 
Neglecta. 
Linifolia. 
Caucasica. 
Persicifolia. 
a CceruUa. 
b Alba. 
c Alba-pkno. 
a CcBTulia-plem, 
Pyramidalis. 
Versicolor. 
•Nitida. 

a CceruUa. 
b Alba. 



9G6 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



La ti folia, 
a Alba. 

Macrantha. 

Urticifolia. 

Infiindibuliformis. 

Bonooiensis. 

Aggregata. 

Speciosa. 

Multiflora. 

Collina. 
•Azurea. 

Lactiflora. 

Thyrsoidea. 

Barbata. 
•Punctata. 

Betonicifolia. 
•Alpina. 

Alliarixfolia. 

Lamiifolia. 

Siberica. 

Lingulata. 
Cardamine. 
•Pratensis. 

* Flora pleno- 
•-^mara. 
•Rotundifolia. 
Catanakche. 

Coerulia. 

CENTArRLA. 

GlastifoUa. 
Alba. 

Macrocephala. 

Alata. 

Phrygia. 

Centaurium. 

Rivularis. 
Cerasticm. 

•Grandiflorum. 

•Tomentosum. 

•Biebersteinii. 

•Lanatiim. 

•Latifoliuir 

•Alpinum. 

•Repens. 

•Suflfruticosum 

•Pubescens 



•Pilosxim. 

CllEIRANTHtS. 

•Cheiri, many ranWMi 
•Alpinuj. 
Chelone. 

Graodiflora. 

Digitalis. 

Glabra. 

Oblequa. 

Lyoni. 

Rosea. 

Barbata. 

Cainpanulata. 

Laevigata. 

Pubescens. 

Cristata. 
Chrysanthemum. 

Atratum. * 

^rontanum. 

Arcticum- 

Paludosum. 

Rotundifolium. 

Sinense. 

Indicum. — Of this very interesting 
species, the following are varieties, and 
have been chiefly introduced by the 
Hort. Soc : • — 

Old purple. 

Changeable white. 

Quilled white. 

Superb white. 

Tasselled white. 

Quilled yellow. 

Straw-colored. 

Golden yellow. 

Large lilac. 

Pink or lilac. 

Buff or copper- colored, 

Spanish brown. 

Quilled flame yellow. 

Quilled pink. 

Early crimson. 

Large quilled orange. 

Expanded light purple. 

Quilled light purple. 

Curled lilac. 



• We have preferred giving tfce English namei of the v»rietles of this species, as being more 
ff«erally used. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Superb clustered yellow. 
Semi-double quilled pink. 
Semi-double quilled white. 
Semi-double quilled orange. 
Late pale purple. 
Quilled salmon-colored. 
Small yellow. 
Paper-white. 
Pale pink. 
Tasselled yellow. 
Yellow Waratah. 
Golden Lotus. 
Double Indian yellow. 
Park's small yellow. 
Pale buff. 
Blush. 

Double Indian white 
Starry pui-ple. 
Early blush. 
Brown purple. 

COLCHICUM. 

Autumn ale. 
Montanum. 
Arenarium. 

CONVALLARIA. 

Majalis. 

a Alba. 

b Rosea. 

c Plena. 
Convolvulus. 
Holocericeus. 
Salvifolius. 
*Lineatus. 
Sibthorpii. 
Hirsutus. 
Tiliaceus. 

COREOPSIS. 

Grandiflora. 

Verticillata. 

Tenuifolia. 

Auria. 

Discolor. 

Senifolia. 

Amplexicaulis. 

Palmata. 

Auriculata. 

Latifolia. 

Arguta. 

Laaciolata. 



Crassifolia. 
Angustifolia. 

CORONILLA. 

*Iberica. 
♦Coronata. 
♦Cappadocica. 
♦Varia. 

CORTUSA. 

*Mathioli. 

CORYDALIS. 

*Lutea. 

Uralensis. 

Glauca. 

Nobilis. 

Bracteata, 

Angustifolia. 

Bulbosa. 

Tubcrosa. 
Crocus. 

Albiflorus. 

Biflorus. 

Vemus. 

Versicolor. 

Striatus. 

Pusillus. 

Nudiflorus. 

Susianns. 

Sativus. 

Stellaris. 

Reticulatus. 

Sotplmreas. 

Maesiacus. 

Lagenseflorus. 

Serotinus. 
Cyclamen. 
♦Cocem. 
*Vcmum. 
*Europeum. 
♦Hederaefolium. 
♦Neapolitanum. 
Cynanchom. 

Vincetoxicum. 

Fuscatum. 

Sibericum. 

Roseum. 

Acutum. 
Cypripedium. 

Arietinum. 

Spectabile. 



968 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Calceolie. 

Pubescens. 

Humile. 

PaniflonmL 
Dahlia. 

Many varieties, 
Dalibarda. 

•Repens. 
Delphinium. 

Pictum. 

Speciosum. 

Laxiflonun. 

Intermedium. 

Grandiflonim. 
a Album. 
b Flore-pleno 
c Chinense. 

Puniceum. 

Hybridum. 

Fissum. 

Elegans. 

Tricome. 

AmaBiiuni. 

Azureum, 

Exaltatum. 

Revolutum. 

DiANTHUS. 

Barbatus. 

a Flore-pUmo 
*LatifoUu3. 
♦Capitatus. 
•Atrorubens. 
•Carthusianonun. 
♦Polymorphus. 
♦Collinus. 
•Campestxia. 
♦Alpestris. 
♦Nitidus. 
♦Guttatus. 

Versicolor. 
•Moutanus. 

Caryophyllus. 

a Flore-plenc. 
h Fruticosus. 
c ImbricatuSi 

Superbus. 
•Fragrans. 

Serotinus. 
•Arenarius. 



Fimbriatu*. 

Hortensis. 

SquarrosuB. 
•Petraeus. 
♦Glacialis. 
♦Alpinus. 
•Caesius. 
♦Deltoides. 

Pungens. 

DiCTAMNUS. 

Albus. 
Fraxioella. 
Digitalis. 
Lutea. 
Media. 
Orientalis. 
Auria. 
Fernigine*. 
Ambigua. 
Fulva. 
Obscura. 

DODECATHEOM. 

Media. 

DORONICDM. 

Caucasicum. 
Orientale. 

DORTCNIUM. 

Herbacium. 
Draba. 

•Aizoides. 
♦Stellata. 
♦Hirta. 
•Alpina. 
Drtas. 

•Octopetale. 
Dracocephalum. 

Nutans. 

Speciosum. 

Denticulatum. 

Sibericum. 

Virginianum. 

Palmatum. 

Botryoides. 

Austriacum. 

Ruyschiana. 
Epilobium. 

Spicatum. 

HaUerj 

Latifolium. 



Coloratum. 

Angustissimum. 
Erigenon. 

Grandiflorum. 
♦Alpinum. 
•Uniflorum. 
♦Villarsii. 

Caucasicum. 

Compositum< 

Carolianum. 

Nudicaula. 

Purpuriunj- 

Philadelphiciwp 

Belli difolium. 
Erinus. 
•Alpinus. 
♦Hispanicus. 
Erepetion. 

♦Reniforme. 
Erodium. 
♦Richardi. 
♦Gussonii. 
♦Hymenodes. 
*Serotinum. 
♦Alpinum, 

Glaucophyllum. 

Malopoides. 
Eryngium. 

Azureum. 

Bourgati. 

Maritimum 

Alpiuum. 

AmethystinuBi 

Planum. 

Aquaticum. 

Coeruleum. 
Farsetia. 

♦Lunarioides. 
Fritiliaria. 

Imperialis. 

Obliqua. 

Meleagris. 

Praecox. 

Latifblia. 

Lutea. 

Nervosa. 

Ten alia. 

Nigra. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

Pyrenaica 

Persica. 

Pudica. 

Lanciolala. 
Fragaria. 

♦Indica. 
Galardia. 

Bicolor. 

Arista ta, 
Galanthus. 

Nivalis. 
Galax. 

♦Cordifolia. 
Galioa 

Officinalis, 
a Coerulia, 
bAlba. 

Biloba. 

Persica. 

OrientaJis, 
Gentiana 

Lutea. 
*Ciliata. 
*Vema. 

Baverica. 
♦Pumila. 

Pyrenaica. 
♦Aculus. 

Purpuria* 

Punctata, 
♦Septemfida. 

Cruciata. 

Asclepedia. 

Saponaria. 
♦Gelida, 

Intermedia, 

Incarnata. 

Catesbaei. 

Ochroleuca, 

Peumonanthe. 

Macrophylla 
Geranium. 

♦Sanguineum 
♦Argenteum. 

Anemonefolium. 

Macrorhizon. 

Ibericum, 
•Wallichianum. 

Angulatnm. 



970 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER, 



I'ratense. 

a Albwn. 
b Flore-pleno. 
Gladiolus. 

Byzantinus 
Commiinis. 
Globularia. 
•Vulgaris. 
*CordifoHa. 
♦BelUdifoUa. 
♦Nudicaulis. 
*Nana. 
♦Linifolia. 
Glaucium. 
*Ftilvuin. 
*Flaviiin. 
Gypsophila. 
*Altissima. 
*Fastigata, 
*Perfoliata. 
*Acuti folia. 
*Paniculata. 
*Steveni. 
* Glomei'ata. 
*Saxifraga. 
*Repens. 
•»Adsendens. 
*Rigida. 
*Prosterata. 
Hedysarum. 

Grandiflonim. 
Candidum. 
Serotinum. 
Paniculatum. 
Viridifiorum. 
*Obscunun. 
Canadense. 
Obtusum. 
Caraeum. 
*Humile. 
*Roseum. 
*Alpinuin. 
Helianthus. 
Multifloru^ 

Flore-plen^. 
Atrorubens 
Trilobatus. 
Parviflorus, 
Excelsus. 



Decapetalus. 
Altissimus. 
Longifolius. 
Helleborus. 
Niger. 
Viridis. 
Atrorubens. 
Dumetorum. 
Lividus. 
Purpurascens. 
Hepatica. 
Triloba. 

a Ccerulia. 

b CopTulia-plentL 

c Rubra. 

d Rubra-plcna. 

e Alba. 

f Nivia. 
Helonias. 
Bullata. 
Erythrospenna. 
Angustifolius. 
Hesperts. 

Matronalis. 

a Albiflora, 

b Albo-plena. 

c Purpuria. 

d Piirpurio-plemu 

e Variegata. 

d Folii-flora. 
Fragrans. 
Hemerocallis. 
Flava. 
Fuiva. 
Graminia. 
Disticha. 

HOUSTONIA. 

♦Coerulia. 
Purpuria. 
Hyacinthus. 
Orientalis. 

a Ccencleus. 

b Ruber. 

c Flavus. 

d Multiplex. 

e Plenus. 

f Albus. 

g SemipL-'nut, 
Amel^Tstiiius. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Hypericum. 

Elegans. 

Maculatum. 
1b£ris. 

*Saxatiles. 

*Corifob'a. 

♦Sempervirens. 

♦Tenorcana. 

•Pubescens. 
Illecebrum. 

*Verticillatum. 
Iris. 

Susiana. 

Florentina. 

Germanica. 

PalHda. 

Flavessens. 

Sambucina. 

Squalens. 

Lurida. 

Cristata. 

Fimbriata. 

Flavissima. 

Pumila. 

Versicolor. 

Fulva. 

Spuria. 

Desertorum. 

Verna. 

Haematophylla, 

Xiphium. 

Xiphioides. 

Humilis. 

Nepaleusis. 

Flexuosa. 

Prismatica. 
Jasione. 

♦Montana. 
*Perennis. 
Lathyrus. 

Grandiflorus. 

Attenuatus. 

Tenuifolius 

Latifolius. 

Hetrophyllus. 

Incurvus. 

Polymorphug. 

Venosus. 



LlATRIS. 

Spicata. 

Pycnostachya. 

Paniculata. 

Squarrosa. 

Intermedia. 

Pilosa. 

Gracilis. 

Scariosa. 

Elegans. 

Sphaeroidea. 

Turbinata. 

LiNUM, 

*Flavum. • 
*Alpinum. 
*Difitisum. 
♦Montannm. 

LiLIUM. 

Candidum. 

Tigrinvun. 

Canadense. 

PhiladelphicuiD^ 

Catasbaei. 

Longiflorum. 

Japonicum. 

Carolinianum. 

Pumilmn. 

Martagon. 

Superbum. 

Glabrum. 

Pomponium. 

Monadelphum. 

Pyrenaicum. 

Croceum. 

Latifolium. 

Spectabile. 

LiNARIA. 

*Cymbalaria. 

♦Pilosa. 

•Alpina. 

Genistifolia. 

Linifolia 

Vulgaris. 
Piloria. 

Lobelia. 
* Erin us. 
♦Amcena. 
Syphilitica. 



972 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Cardiualis. 
Splendens. 
Fulgens. 

LUPINUS. 

Arboreus. 

Mutabilis. 

Mexicanus 

Perennis. 

Nootkateusis. 
Lychnis. 

Chalcedonica. 

a Flore-pleno. 
b Albiflora. 

Coronata. 

Fulgens. 
Lythrum. 

Diffusum. 

Virgatum. 

Liiieare. 
Lysimachia. 

Verticillata. 
*Nummularia. 
*Ncmorum. 

Puuctatum. 

Ciliata. 

Stricta. 

Ephemeriim. 

MiMULUS. 

*Guttatus. 
Ringens. 
Alatus. 

MONARDA. 

Media. 

Didyma. 

Russelliana. 

Purpuria. 
AIl'scahi. 

Botryoides. 

a Azureum. 
b Pallidum, 
c Album. 

Moschatum. 

Comosum. 
Narcissus. 

Moschatus. 

Pseudo-narcissus. 

Minor. 

Tenuifolius. 

Aurantius. 



lacomparabilis. 

Floribundus. 

Poeticus. 

Tazetta. 

Jonquilla. 

a Flora- pleno. 
Multiflorus. 
Ononis. 
Picta. 

Antiquorum. 
Orobus. 

Lathyroides. 

Veruus. 

Albus. 

Variu*. 

Niger. 

Sessilifolius. 

Tenuifolius. 
Ornithogalum. 

Fimbriatum. 

Pyramidale. 

Japonicum, 

P^ONIA. 

Moutan, 

a Papaveracea, 

b Banlisii. 

c Rosea. 
Officinalis. 

a Rosea. 

h Albicans. 

c Sabini. 

d Blanda. 

e Carnescens. 

f Rubra. 
Ediilis. 

a Humei. 

b Whillcji. 

c Candida. 

d Tartarica. 

e Albijlora. 

f Vestalis. 

g Siberica. 

h Rubescens. 

i Unijlyra. 

j Frajrans. 
'feuuifolia 
Hybrida. 
Corallina. 
Daurica. 



THE 

Auomala. 

Laciniata. 
Paiadoxa. 
Pubens. 
Humilis. 
Lobata. 
Russi. 
Decora. 
Cretica. 
Peregrina. 
Mollis. 
Papaver. 

Orientale. 
Bracteatum. 
Microcarpiim. 
*Alpinum. 
*Nudicaule. 
Phlox. 

Divericata. 
Suaveolans. 
Ovata. 
*Reptans. 
Carolina. 
Pauiculata. 

Alba. 
Uudulata. 
Acuminata. 
Maculaia. 
Triflora. 
Pyramidalis. 
*Ama;na. 
*Subulata. 
♦Nivalis. 
*Setacea. 
Virgiuica. 
Intermedia 
Phyteum\. 
Orbiculare 
Elipticun? 
Comosum. 
Campanuloides. 

POLEMONIUM. 

Coerulium. 

Flore-albo, 
Mexicanum. 
Sibericum. 
Reptaus 

POTENTILLA. 

*Splendens 
♦Sericia. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 

*Aurea. 
♦Formosa. 
*Atro-sau guinea. 
♦Graudiflora. 
*Opaca. 
Primula. 
Acaulis. 

a Albo-plena. 
b Sulphureo-phna. 
' c Cupreo-pJcna. 
d Sabnoneo-plena. 
e Lilacino -plena. 
f Riibro-plena. 
g Purpureo -plena. 
Elatior. 

PolyantM. 
Auricula. 
Marginata. 
Farinosa. 
Palinuri. 

PULMONARIA. 

Mollis. 
Officinalis. 
Grandiflora. 

PiRETHRUM. 

Grandiflorum. 
Rosevim. 
Pulsatilla. 
Vulgaris. 
Alpiua. 
Halleri. 
Ranunculus. 

Aconitifolius. 
Platauifolius. 
Amplexicaulis. 
Rhexia. 

•Maiiana. 
♦Virgiuica. 
Sanguinaria. 

Canadensis. 
Salvia. 

Interrupta. 
Nubicola. 
Tenorii. 
Triloba. 
Saxifraga. 
♦Crassifolia. 
*Cordifolia. 
♦Ligulata. 
■»Geum. 



974 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



*Dentata. ' 

♦Serrata. 

*Sarmentosa. 

*Erosa. 

•Granulata, 

Flora-plen 
♦Aizoides. 
*Hieracifolia. 
♦Pensylvanica. 
*Colyledon 
*Lingulata. 
♦Aizoon. 
♦Oppositifolia. 
♦Geranioides 
♦Irrigua. 
*Ceratophylla. 
♦Moschata. 
*Hypnoides. 
Sedum. 
♦Aizoon. 
♦Populifolium. 
•Reflexum. 
*Acre. 

*Dasyphyllum. 
♦Glaucum. 
♦Hybridum. 
Sempervivium. 
*Tectorum. 
*Grandiflorum. 
♦Montaniun. 

SPIRiEA. 

Filipendula. 

Digitata. 

Palmata. 

Lobata. 

Ulmaria. 

Aruncus. 

S PIGELIA. 

Marylandica. 
Statice. 

Dianthoides. 

Vulgaris. 

Latifolia. 

Plantaginea. 
Stipa. 

Pinnata. 

TiGRIDA. 

Pavonia. 
Conchiiflora. 



Tracheuum. 

Coerulia. 
Tradescantia. 

Subaspera. 

Virginica. 

Rosea. 
Trillium. 

Sessile. , 

Grandiflorum. 

Erythrocarpum. 

Ovatum. 
Tritomia. 

Uvaria. 

Media. 
Trollius. 

Europeus. 

Asiatdcus. 
Tulipa. 

Gesneriana. 

Sylvestris. 

Suaveolens. 

Praecox. 

UVULARIA. 

Grandiflora, 

Perfoliata. 

Sessilifolia. 
Valeriana. 

Rubra. 
Veratrum. 

Nigrum. 

Viridum. 
Verbena. 

Sororia. 
Veronica. 

Neglecta. 

Latifolia. 

Incana. 

Elegans. 
•Fruticulosa. 
•Saxatilis. 

Arguta. 

Gentian oide* 

Laciniata. 

Elatior. 

Azuria. 

Virginica. 

Media. • 

Paniculata. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



975 



Glabra. 
Spicata. 

ViNCA. 

Herbacia. 
Minor, et var. 
Major. 
Viola. 

Cucullata. 
♦Multifida. 
Variegata. 

Those marked (♦) are rock-plants ; 
upon banks of rock-work. 



♦Pedata. 

Odorata, et var. 

Eriocarpa. 

Pubcscens. 
*Cornuta. 
*Altaica. 

Pilosa. 

Lutea. 

Tricolor. 
*Saxatilis. 

is, such as are generally cultivated 



BIENNIAL FLOWER GARDEN PLANTS, 



Agrostemma. 

Coronaria. 

Var.flo. albo. 

Flo. pleno rub. 
Flos-jovis. 
Antirrhinum. 
Bellidifolium. 
Majus. 

Var. flora-pleno. 
Fol. Varigata. 
Flo. lutea. 
Flo. albo. 

Adlumia. 

Cirrhosa. 
Althaea. 

Rosea, et var. 

Striata. 

Pallida. 
Alyssum. 

Sinuatum. 
Anchusa. 

Italica. 

BORAGO. 

Laxiflora. 
Berteroa. 
Incana. 



Campanula. 

Media. 

Var.flo. albo 

Obliqua. 

Americana. 

Cervicaria. 

Multiflora. 

Thyrsoidea. 

Betonicifolia. 

Spicata. 

Divergens. 

Lanuginosa. 
Celsia. 

Cretica. 

Lanciolata. 
Delphinium. 

Pictum. 
Dianthus. 

Chinensis. 

Var. flo-pleno. 
Digitalis. 

Purpuria. 

Var.flo. albo. 
Erythroljena. 

Conspicua. 



976 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Erigeron. 
Acris. 

Hetrophyllum. 
Gadra. 

Biennis. 

Mutabilis. 
Glaucium. 

FlavTim. 
Iberis. 

Linifolia. 

Ciliata. 

Taurica. 

Nana. 
[satis. 

Tinctoria. 



Praecox. 
Lavatera. 

Arborea. 

Biennis. 
Lin DM. 

Strictum. 
Verbascum. 

Formosum. 

Niveum. 

Macranthum. 

Spectabile. 

Elongatum. 

Rotundifolium. 



HARDY ANNUALS 



Adonis. 

Autimnalis. 

Flava. 

Flammea. 
Ageratum. 

Mexicanum. 

Cceruleum. 

Strictum. 

Latifolium. 
Argimone. 

Mexicana. 

Albiflora. 
Anagallis. 

Ccerulia. 

Indica. 

Arv'ensis. 

Caraea. 
Amaranthcs. 

Hypochondriacus. 

Caudatus. 

Speciosus 

Tristis. 

Bicolor. 

Albus. 



Balsamina. 

Capensis. 

Chinensis. 

Bifida. 
Carthamus. 

Tinctorius. 
Calendula. 

Officinalis. 

Var. flora-plena. 

Pluvialis. 

Hybrida. 

Stellata. 
Centauria. 

Suaviolens. 

COLLINSIA. 

Vema. 
Cleome. 

Pubescens. 

Violacia, 

Diffusa. 

Vergata. 
Coreopsis. 

Tinctoria. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



977 



Convolvulus. 

Tricolor. 

Elongatus. 

Siculus. 

Undulatus. 
Datura. 

Ferox. 

Tatiila. 

Muricata. 

Querci folia. 

Stramonium. 
Delphinum. 

Ajacis. 

Var. flo. j)leno. 

Coiisolida. 

Var. fio. pleno. 

Acouiti. 

DiANTHUS. 

Prolifer. 
Armeria. 
Dracocephalum. 
Cauescens. 

ECHIUM. 

Austerale. 

FUMARIA. 

Capreolata. 

Spicata. 

Deusiflora. 
Galinsogea. 

Trilobata. 

Balbisioides. 
Glaucium. 

Corniculatum, 

Var. flaviflorum. 
Heliophila. 

Diffusa. 

Digitata. 

Pectinata. 
Heliamthemum. 

Plantagineum. 

Gnttatum. 

Villosum. 

Punctatum. 
Helianthus. 

Aunuus. 

ludicus. 

Tubaefoimis. 



HVOSCYAMUS. 

Agrestis. 

Pallidus. 

Albus. 
Hypecoum. 

Procumbens. 
Iberis. 

Umbulata, 

Odorata. 

Pinuata. 
Impatiens. 

Biflora. 

Pallida. 

Noli- tan gere. 

ISOTOMA. 

Axilaris. 

lPOM.f:A. 

Luteola. 

Hederacea. 

Cuspidata. 

Barbigera. 

Purpuria. 
Kaulfussia. 

AmelloideSo 
Lavatera. 

Trimestris. 

Punctata, 

Lanciolata. 
Leonurus. 

Hetrophyllin, 

Multifedus. 

LOPEZIA. 

Coronata, 
Pumila. 
Lobelia. 
Inflata. 

LiNUM. 

Gallicum. 
Aureum. 
"Rigidum. 
Linaria, 

Bipartita. 

LUPINUS. 

Pilosus. 
Hirsutus- 
Varius. 
Luteus. 

61 



978 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Mathiola. 

Annim, et var. 

Tricuspidata. 

Longipetala. 
Malva. 

Mauritiana. 
Malope. 

Trifida. 

MONOPSIS. 

Conspicua. 
Nemophila. 

Phacelioides. 

NiCOTIANA. 

Tabacum, ct var. 
Latissima. 
Rustica. 
Glutinosa. 

NiGELLA. 

Hispanica. 
Damasceua, 

Yar.flo. pleno. 
Orientalis. 

NOLANA. 

Prosterata. 
Paradoxa. 
Ononis. 
Diffbsa. 

OENOTHERA. 

Sinnata. 

Striata. 

Tetraptera. 

Pinnatifida. 

Tenella. 

Purpuria. 
Papaver. 

Argemone. 

Somuiferum, et var 

Caucasicum. 

Horridum. 

Setigerum. 
Prismatocarpus. 

Nitidus. 

Speculum. 



Pentagonius. 

Hirsatus. 

RlCHARDSONIA. 

Scabra. 
Reseda. 

Odorata. 

SCHIZANTHUS. 

Pinnatns. 
Porrigens. 
Senecio. 

Elegans, et var. 

SiLENE. 

Rubella. 

Quadridentata. 
Longicaulus. 

Pendula. 

Ciliata. 

Vespertina. 

Picta. 

Armeria. 
Tagetes. 

Corymbosa, et var. 

Tenuifolia. 

Glaudulosa. 

Patula. 

Erecta. 

Minuta. 
Trop^olum. 

Miuus. 

Majus. 
Viola. 

Prosterata. 

Tricolor, et var. 
Xe ranthemum. 

Annuum. 

Orientale- 

Inapertum, 
Zinnia. 

Pauciflora. 

Multiflora. 

Elegans. 

Angustifolia. 

Tenuifolia. 



979 



THE 

GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The green-house and conservatory may be defined to be 
garden structures, dedicated to the exclusive cuhivation of 
ornamental plants, and are considered as the highest grade of 
horticultural erections. The former is distinguished from the 
latter by having all the plants portable, and generally placed 
on stages ; whereas, in the latter, the major part are planted 
out permanently in beds or borders prepared for them. In 
the former, the plants are for the most part kept small, and 
in a flowering state, by frequent propagations ; the end in 
view being more the production of abundant bloom than a 
display of the natural characters of the plants. In the latter, 
the natural habits of many plants may be developed, while at 
the same time the eye is delighted with a profusion of blossom 
in all its natural splendor, and the air perfumed with exotic 
fragrance. The former of these structures is by far the most 
ancient, and was known in this country in the seventeenth 
century, or even before that date. The latter is, however, of 
far more modern date, and, as a prominent character, pos- 
sesses the advantage of being constructed on a more extended 
scale. Indeed, so much so, that several acres might be co- 
vered with glass, and specimens of that scenery displayed at 
home, which can only be enjoyed by those who visit more tem- 
perate climates. Several structures of considerable magnitude 
have been erected in this country; and one attempt, which 
unfortunately failed, (we mean the projected oriental garden 
at Brighton,) of carrying this species of building to its greatest 



980 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



extent, would have furnished us with an example of how far this 
idea is capable of being carried. 

Like all other structures for the habitation of plants, much 
has been said regarding their construction, in reference to 
their extent, form, the materials of which they should be 
formed, &c. 

Of the latter, we have already, in the Introduction to the 
Forcing Garden, given our opinion in favor of wood supe- 
rior to that of any other substitute hitherto used; we will, 
therefore, now proceed to consider their situation, construc- 
tion, &c. 

SITUATION OF THE CONSERVATORY. 

The conservatory is sometimes placed in the pleasure ground, 
either attached to other hot-houses, or wholly apart, as the 
large dome-house at Britton-Hall, the seat of Col. Beaumont ; 
and it is sometimes attached to the mansion, as at the Grange, 
the seat of A. Baring, Esq., M.P., where it may be said to 
form a part, both ornamental and useful. When attached to 
the mansion, it forms a lounge or promenade, at such seasons 
as the proprietor or his family could not so conveniently reach 
it, if situated at a distance ; and it not unfrequently occurs, 
that it may be placed at certain points of a mansion with 
considerable architectural effect, as in the case last alluded to. 

Whether the conservatory be placed immediately joining the 
house, or detached, it is important for the welfare of the 
plants cultivated in it that the situation be good, as far ai> 
regards exposure to the sun ; for although the majority of 
exotic plants will thrive with a much less portion of sun-shine 
than is willingly allowed by many, still, when all circumstances 
will admit of it, a southern exposure is to be preferred. 

The annexed engraving is a sketch of the conservatory 
above alluded to, the roof of which is wholly composed of 
metal and glass, the lights of wrought-iron rims and copper 
bars, being supported by cast-iron rafters, communicating with 
gutters or spouts of the same materials. This magnificent 
structure is about one hundred feet in length by fifty in breadth, 
the oricrinal design of which was furnished by C. P. Cockerell, 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORYc 981 

Esq., and erected by Messrs. Jones and Clark, of Bir- 
mingham. 




SITUATION OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

We perfectly agree with Nicol, that this structure should be 
placed in the shrubbery or flower garden, and not, as it is 
generally to be found, in the kitchen garden, combined with 
the forcing-houses. Neither should the green-house, except- 
ing in small places, be attached to the house. The most 
eligible situation for a green-house is certainly in the flower 
garden or pleasure ground, and its exposure may be to the 
south, east, or west, with little difference to the plants ; for, 
with the exception of those of the most delicate constitutions, 
they will prosper equally well should the house front either oi 
those points, provided all the other points of culture be equally 
good : a green-house having a northern exposure would even 
have its advantages. Camellias and many other plants are 
found to succeed best in such situations ; and it is well known, 
and easily accounted for, that plants in flower will retain 
their bloom much longer in a house so situated, than in one 
fully exposed to the sun. 

Where the collection to be cultivated is intended to be con- 
siderable, it will be found most desirable to have two houses, 
even though smaller, than one very large house. The one to be 
exposed to the south, and the other may be either to the east, 



9S2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



west, or north. In the former may be cultivated all tender 
and delicate plants, particularly those denominated Cape plants, 
such as Ericas, Pelergo?iiums, Diosmas, &c., which prosper 
in a full exposure to the sun. In the latter may be cultivated 
Cryptogamous plants, and the majority of New-Holland plants, 
with thick or coriaceous leaves, &c. ; and during the period 
when almost all plants are in flower, the latter will be found 
the most suitable for them, as their flowers will continue in 
perfection much longer in such, than in one which is more 
exposed to the sun. The latter will also be found extremely 
useful during summer, when the generality of green-house 
plants are taken out of the houses for the reception of some 
of the more delicate Ericas, Heliclirysum, Epacris, and 
some other tender species, that are found not to succeed well 
when turned out in the open air. 



ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE CONSERVATORY. 

It has been justly observed by one of our best practical 
writers on this subject, that in the construction of plant-houses, 
fancy may be indulged in, and a greater scope may be allowed 
to the taste than in the construction of forcing-houses, where 
one object is only in view, viz. the production of certain fruits 
to the utmost possible degree of perfection. 

In the construction of all habitations for plants which are 
designed for ornamental purposes, elegance of design should 
not be lost sight of ; and while the conservatory admits a suf- 
ficiency of light and the proper means of admitting air in 
abundance, the latter of which is of much importance, the 
size and form may be such as to harmonize with the other 
parts of the mansion, or taste of the owner. In the construc- 
tion of the conservatory, the artist may display much archi- 
tectural taste, without rendering the house by any means unfit 
for plants ; and those structures which are erected without a 
considerable share of such taste, will always appear puerile 
and mean. That taste may be here indulged in without injury, 
is evident from the variety of structures of this kind erected 
upon different principles ; and in such we have often observed 
the success in the cultivation to depend more upon the ma- 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY, 



983 



nagement of the plants afterwards, than upon any particular 
style of the building, although it must be admitted that some 
houses of this kind are very defective. It is, however, always 
advisable, where circumstances will admit of it, to have all the 
sides of the house of glass, or nearly so ; but as it is seldom 
the case, where the conservatory forms part of, or is attached 
to the mansion, that this can be attained; in such cases, 
therefore, one of the sides may be opaque, as in the case of 
our plate, (see Plate,) which represents a beautiful structure of 
this sort, built from the design of W. Atkinson, Esq. for P. C. 
Labouchere, Esq., at his seat. Highlands, near Chelmsford. 

Conservatories have hitherto, for the most part, been fixed 
structures ; portable houses, however, of this sort, have their 
advantages, excellent specimens of which may be seen at 
Cowes Castle, in the Isle of Wight, the seat of Julius Nash, 
Esq., where, in summer, the glass doors and lights are removed, 
leaving the plants to the enjoyment of free air, rain, and sun, 
whilst the skeleton of the structure forms a beautiful architec- 
tural piazza of considerable length. Other specimens occur, 
where the whole house is removed, and the beds, flues, and 
walks turfed over, presenting an exotic shrubbery in a per- 
fectly novel point of view. This has been long exemplified at 
Nuneham Courtenay, in the case of an old orange-house situ- 
ated in the flower garden, which is thus annually removed, 
and treated in the manner above alluded to. 

In whatever style the conservatory may be designed, in re- 
gard to form, &c., it is of the utmost importance to the wel- 
fare of the plants intended to be cultivated in it, that the 
bottom be rendered perfectly dry b^ draining ; and this is the 
more necessary, as not only the natural damp of the situation 
has to be guarded against, but also the superabundant supplies 
of water that may from time to time be applied, provision for 
which should be carefully and effectually made in the first 
erection, as it cannot be effected afterwards without much in- 
convenience : and unless the bottoms of the borders be ren- 
dered capable of being kept dry, little success will attend the 
cultivation of the inmates. 

Ventilation is also of the utmost importance for the purpose 
of keeping the plants in a healthy state, and to prevent them 



984 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



being drawn up slender, and after a time rendered naked ot 
branches near their bottoms. If all the sashes be not made 
moveable, which would be advisable, it is particularly neces- 
sary that the greater part should be so made, as no means of 
ventilating are capable of affording air in sufficient abundance 
to such houses, where the sashes are entirely fixed. This is 
one principal objection to curvilinear-roofed houses, which can 
' never be rendered sufficiently water-tight where the roof-sashes 
are moveable, without incurring an expense, which can never 
be balanced by any real merit that they may be supposed to 
possess. To those, however, who give a preference to them, 
we cannot recommend a better constructed roof than that 
called the polyprosopic, which is thus described by Mr. 
Loudon, in the Encyclopedia of Gardening: — "The poly- 
prosopic roof resembles a curvihnear house, but differs in 
having the surface thrown into a number of faces, the chief 
advantages of ^vhich are, that by hinging all the different faces 
at their upper angles, and by having rods connecting the lower 
outside corners of the faces terminating in chains, which go 
over pullies in the top, or above the back wall, the whole roof, 
including the ends, may be raised sympathetically, like Venetian 
blinds, either so as each sash or face may be placed in the 
plane of the angle of the sun's rays at the time, or to the 
perpendicular to admit a shower of rain. In consequence of 
this arrangement, the plants in a polyprosopic house may at 
any time, and in a few minutes, be placed in effect, or, as far 
as respects light, air, wind, rain, dew, &c., in the open air; 
and being so placed, may, whenever desired, be as speedily 
restored to their proper climate." With all the advantages 
above stated, and important ones they are to a certainty, still 
the expense of erecting so complicated a system of moveable 
sashes, chains, &c., must be great, independently of the li- 
ability of their getting out of proper repair, or not acting in 
concert. 

Air in sufficient abundance can be much more economically 
supplied, when the sashes of any formed house (curvilinear 
ones excepted) are made completely moveable, and let down by 
means of chains, or lines fixed to the top rails of each, or 
every other sash, and run over a pulley fixed in the back wall, 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY, 



985 



SO as to admit of the sash shding down its whole length over 
the one immediately below it ; and admitting that every alter- 
nate top sash be thus let down, and the next bottom sash to 
it, let down its whole length, resting by its top rail upon the 
front of the house, where the front does not exceed four or 
five feet in height, and the bottom rail on the ground ; by this 
means, the half of the entire roof surface will be, with little 
trouble, and at a comparatively trifling expense, exposed to 
the rain, dew, air, &c. When the front is of greater height, as 
is most generally the case with conservatories, then, instead 
of letting down the bottom sash to the ground, they may be 
drawn up under the top sash immediately above it, by similar 
means to that by which the top ones are let down. When 
ventilation is not to be given to its fullest extent, then the 
sashes may be let down to any given degree in the same 
manner, and having them (as a security against accidents by 
slipping down) secured by spring catches fixed to the side rail 
of the sash, and corresponding notches in the side of the 
rafters. Conservatories are in general loftier than any other 
species of hot-house, excepting those which are intended for 
the cultivation of palms, or similar tropical plants, which require 
much room. They, therefore, of themselves present very ample 
means of ventilation, as all the sides and ends, that are made 
of glass, may be so contrived as to be either removed or air 
admitted by half their surface, by opening the sashes in such 
a way as those that are fully open may cover those that remain 
shut ; and, in addition to this, such parts of their sides as are 
opaque, when it does not break in on any other arrangement, 
may be ventilated either by glass windows or by wooden ven- 
tilators, upon the principle of those already recommended, 
and so placed as to suit existing circumstances. Ornamental 
brass ventilators, having an expanding orifice upon the outside, 
may be introduced into the walls when building, and may be 
opened or shut at pleasure ; and probably they may be less 
objectionable in their appearance than those constructed of 
wood, as recommended for the culinary hot-houses. 

The plants which most generally enter into the conservatory, 
are such as are capable of withstanding a considerable degree 
of cold, being for the most part natives of the Cape, New- 

6k 



986 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Holland, and such like temperatures. Fire-heat is therefore 
seldom required, excepting in times of frost ; and indeed a 
greater degree of injury generally attends the application of 
too much fire-heat than the want of it, in the cultivation of 
green-house and conservatory plants. It is, however, neces- 
sary, that sufficient means be taken in the erection to enable 
the cultivator to apply it at his own discretion. 

Fire-flues and steam have hitherto been employed in common 
with all other kinds of similar erections, but since the intro- 
duction of the hot-water system, there are but few who will 
not avail themselves of it. 

In whatever way the conservatory be heated, it is of much 
importance that it be done in such a manner as to have the 
means concealed, as neither smoke-flues, steam, nor hot-water 
pipes, however well they be executed, are pleasing objects in 
such a structure ; and were they less so in point of deformity, 
must necessarily occupy a space which would be much better 
employed in giving greater breadth to the borders or foot- 
paths. The position most generally adopted for the flues or 
pipes, are under the foot-paths, and the heat is allowed to 
enter the house through brass ventilators fixed into the pave- 
ment, although in some cases this precaution is not attended 
to, but the heat is allowed to find its way into the house 
through the pavement ; a great loss of fuel must attend this 
latter method, and a considerable difficulty occur in heating 
the house quickly, which is often desirable, in order to repel 
sudden attacks ot fiost. To remedy, in a very important 
degree, this waste of fuel, and to facilitate the more rapid ad- 
mission of heat, cast-iron grating should be used, if not for 
the whole surface of the foot-path, at least for so much of it as 
covers the flues or pipes. The expense can be no objection, 
for in many cases the grating is cheaper than the pavement, 
and it may be cast to any pattern, and sufficiently close to 
render it comfortable to walk on. This grating should be 
kept regularly painted a stone color, both to add to its neat- 
ness and durability ; or, for greater elegance, the upper surface 
may be covered witli brass, which, with a little attention to 
cleaning, will add much to its neat appearance. As it is cast 
iiito convenient pieces, they should be so laid down as to 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



987 



enable the cultivator to have them taken up when any repair 
or cleaning is necessary in the flues, or for any examination of 
the steam or hot-water pipes. 

For the greater convenience of watering, it will be proper to 
.ave a capacious and water-tight tank sunk under the border, 
or other convenient part of the house, into which all the 
water that collects upon the roof, or upon any portion of the 
adjoining roofs, may be conveyed, and taken up as wanted by 
a neat pump, which may be either placed in a niche in the 
back wall, or so constructed as to take off by the surface of 
the floor when not in use. 

FORMING THE BORDERS. 

Opinions are at variance on the depth that conservatory 
borders should be made, and it may be generally inferred that 
they are made too deep to answer any good purpose. How- 
ever, as houses of this description are erected and planted for 
different purposes, the depth of the borders should be governed 
by the design in view. 

For houses of the most capacious dimensions, and in which 
plants are to be allowed to attain their greatest height and 
size, borders of three feet of mould, independently of draining, 
will be amply sufficient ; and for houses of ordinary sizes, 
when fine specimens of flowering plants are the object, bor- 
ders of two feet, or two feet and a half will be quite sufficient, 
as the plants will flower better when not too luxuriant. For 
houses where a constant succession of flowering plants is re- 
quired, and which would be difficult to attain without all, or 
at least a great portion of the plants being portable, and 
brought to perfection in an auxiliary house, and only admitted 
into the conservatory when coming into flower, and removed 
when they become sickly or past flowering ; in such houses the 
borders need not be deeper than sufficient in which to plunge 
the pots or tubs in which they grow, so as to give the whole the 
appearance of being planted out. Little on this system has 
been done in this country, in what may be called the change- 
able conservatory, but it is evident that much might be done 
with good effect. 



988 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



It is a very general complaint, that many conservatory plants 
become too large, and while they deprive their more delicate 
neighbours of all kinds of nourishment, they become them- 
selves too luxuriant, and seldom are sufficiently prolific in 
bloom to merit the space which they occupy. 

This is the case with the less valuable or more common 
kinds ; to obviate which, it will be proper to have the roots of 
all that are of rapid growth confined within the limits of a pot 
or tub, and those which are of slow growth only planted out. 
The confinement of their roots would answer two good pur- 
poses ; namely, keeping them within proper bounds, and 
inducing a greater disposition to produce flowers. Thus most 
of the strong growing Acacias, Eucalyptus, Metrosideros, 
&c., would be kept within due bounds, while the less rapid 
growing Melaleuca, Banksia, Dryandria, Daviesia, Pul- 
tencea, Poly gala, &c., if planted out, would keep pace with 
them, and not be liable to be overrun. In offering this pro- 
position, we are aware that some will object to it, on the very 
just principle, that many valuable plants, without which a 
first-rate conservatory cannot be considered as complete, do 
not prosper when plunged in the borders, as the roots are 
liable to become saturated with excess of moisture, a constant 
evaporation from the sides of the pots being prevented from 
going on, and also that it is difficult to ascertain what 
particular plants require water and what do not. To these 
objections we answer, that the plants so treated are not in- 
tended to remain long at one time in such a state, but to be 
withdrawn occasionally, to make room for others that are 
coming into flower ; or when they themselves are past flower- 
ing, or appear to require being again placed on the shelves 
of the green-house or auxiliary-house ; and as to the difficulty 
of watering, it is but one of the very many that the cultivator 
has to encounter, and one that none but a very superficial 
gardener will reckon insurmountable. 

In whatever way the borders are arranged, as far as regards 
the depth of soil, it is necessary that they be rendered dry at 
bottom, according to the directions already given for this pur- 
pose, supposing that proper drains have been made to conduct 
any water that might accumulate under the border to a suf- 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATOR 



989 



ficient distance from the house ; the whole surface of the bottom 
of the intended borders should be laid, to the depth of fifteen 
or eighteen inches, with brick-bats, flints, or broken fragments 
of stone, and, in placing them, they should be laid as hollow 
as possible, and level upon the surface. 

Over this stratum of drainage should be placed one foot ot 
turf cut from a heath or pasture, the soil being light and sandy, 
or if of what is called heath-mould, so much the better ; this 
turf should be cut to the thickness of four or five inches each, 
and when used, placed with the green side undermost regu- 
larly over the stratum of drainage. Upon this should be 
placed the mould of which the borders are to be formed, to 
the height of six or eight inches more than what is intended 
for the ultimate height of the border, to allow for its sinking 
or settling. 

COMPOST FOR THE BORDERS. 

It would be inconvenient and almost useless to attempt the 
formation of various soils or composts for the different plants 
which are cultivated in these structures. It is true that some 
few species, which it might be desirable to introduce into the 
conservatory, require soils peculiar almost to themselves, and 
in such cases it will be more convenient to retain such in large 
pots or tubs, which may be plunged into the general border, 
than to attempt forming distinct portions for themselves. Al- 
most all plants, which are cultivated in such structures, are 
found to thrive well in a soil rather poor than rich, the object 
in view being more the attainment of plants of ordinary bulk 
and flowering habits, than the attainment of specimens of their 
natural size, for which we have no houses in this country 
capable of holding, neither (it is presumed) would it be ad- 
visable to make any such attempt. The majority of conser- 
vatory plants are found to prosper well in a soil composed of 
half peat-earth and light virgin-loam, with a small portion of 
pure white sand, the latter ingredient to be added in proportion 
to its absence in the former, or in proportion to the richness 
or stiffness of the latter. No previous preparation is at all 
necessary if these materials be good, neither should either be 



990 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



sifted, as has been hitherto too much practised ; if they be 
broken with the spade in the process of mixing, it will be suf- 
ficient ; but this latter process should only be performed while 
the whole is perfectly dry. Rich strong soils, as well as ma- 
nure, should invariably be dispensed with, the former being 
unfit for the roots of most exotic plants to run freely in, and 
the latter encouraging a degi'ee of luxuriance not to be 
desired. 

PLANTING. 

In planting a conservatory, it must be admitted that pic- 
turesque effect would be desirable, but from the necessarily 
limited space and value of the plants, this can seldom be ef- 
fected, except to a very hmited extent. Cultivators, therefore, for 
the most part, content themselves by planting in such a manner 
as to give the plants such a situation in the house, which is 
calculated to the size that each is likely to attain. With this 
view, the loftiest are placed next the back of such houses as 
are to be viewed only from the front path, and those which 
have a walk round them have the tallest plants in the middle of 
the bed ; while in others, which have two beds with a passage 
between them, as in our plate, the more robust are placed in 
the bed nearest the back, and those which are the most rare, 
valuable, or of more humble growth, occupy the front border. 
This style of planting is too often carried to the extreme, and 
when the house is finished, the whole presents a formal and 
stiff outline, appearing as if the plants were shorn into a re- 
gular slope, without a single twig to break the sameness of 
the surface. To remedy this defect, certain plants should be 
chosen wherewith to form prominent objects, whose fine or 
curious foliage, or general character, will break the straight 
outline, and give a more natural as well as pleasing character 
to the whole. 

Many beautiful exotics are indigenous to thickets and shady 
situations, and others will thrive under the partial shade of 
other plants, some of which should be made choice of to 
plant as underwood, if it may be so called, which will not only 
hide the naked stems of the loftier growing species, but also 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



991 



give a denser and more natural appearance to the whole ; and, 
in addition, exotic herbaceous plants, ferns, and bulbs, may 
be planted, which, with the occasional addition of a little 
moss, will hide one of the greatest deformities in our conser- 
vatories as they are at present planted, namely, the naked 
borders, which, in however good condition they may be kept, 
have always an unnatural appearance. A few plants of Lyco- 
podium deiiticulatum will soon run over a considerably-sized 
border, and may, with very little trouble, be kept healthy and 
green. Other species, natives of our own woods, will prosper 
equally well ; of these, the beautiful Hypnum Proliferum and 
Splendens may be named, intermixed with Cenomyce rangi- 
ferina, C. pyxidata, C. coccifera, &c. It has been advanced 
by some cultivators, that covering the surface in this way is 
injurious to the other plants, but this opinion appears to have 
been offered without a practical knowledge of the contrary ; 
and as it is in imitation of nature, we cannot see how any 
reasonable objection to it can be maintained. We have had 
plants of the most choice, expensive, and delicate descrip- 
tions so treated, and never found any of them to be injured in 
the slightest degree. Some difficulty indeed presents itself for 
the proper selection of conservatory plants, and to obviate which, 
we will give in our Syste?natic Catalogue a list of plants suit- 
able for this purpose, which may be considered sufficiently 
copious for general purposes. Those who plant with a view 
only of novelty, may be considered sufficiently acquainted with 
the subject as not to require any direction from a work pro- 
fessedly practical. It may not, however, be unacceptable to 
the planter of more humble attainments, if we here offer a 
few remarks on the sort of selection proper for conservatories 
in general. The two great general divisions of plants at pre- 
sent cultivated in these structures, are denominated, though 
vaguely, Cape and Botany-Bay plants, although many natives 
of other countries, particularly those of China and Japan 
are also admitted, and amongst them some of the greatest 
beauty and splendor. Cape plants in general are less robust 
in character, although equal to the others in the splendor of 
their blossoms : of these, a few very numerous but at the 



092 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



same time exceedingly beautiful genera, may be said to be 
with propriety excluded from the borders of the conservatory ; 
these are the families of Erica, Protea, Geranium, including 
the whole natural order of Geraniaceas, Gnaphalium, Eli' 
cJirysum, Mesembryanthemum, and some others, which are 
found to prosper much better in pots placed on shelves, or in 
situations very much exposed to a free circulation of air and 
abundance of sun-shine. They become, however, exceedingly 
valuable for decorating the front parts of conservatories while 
in flower, and to be afterwards removed to the green-house, 
which may be said to be their proper habitation. Of what 
are generally denominated Botany-Bay plants, and which in- 
clude those of New Zealand, &c., fewer exceptions are to be 
found. True it is, that some cultivators have laid it down as 
a rule, that no plants from those countries, belonging to the 
natural order Proteacece, will succeed if planted out in con- 
servatory borders ; this is, however, now found to be erro- 
neous, as many beautiful specimens are now to be seen, of this 
description, which prosper exceedingly well. 

A conservatory completely furnished with New-Holland 
plants, may be considered very complete, and probably, with 
the addition of Camellias, and two or three other Chinese or 
Japanese plants, with the magnificent Rhododendron arborea, 
from the Nepaul Mountains, may be considered the acme of 
perfection. The splendid collections of Mr. Mackay at Upper 
Clapton, of Mr. Colvil and Mr. Knight of the King's-Road, 
will present ample opportunities for forming a collection of 
these plants, unequalled in Europe 

In turning out plants from pots into the borders, care should 
be taken that the state of their roots and ball be examined, 
for unless attention be paid to this circumstance, many of them 
will to a certainty fail. Where the balls are hard, and the 
roots much matted, they should be broken, and the roots 
singled out considerably ; for if that be not done, they will, 
in many cases, send out no roots into the border, and 
consequently, in watering, the water will pass through the 
light mould in the border, while the roots remaining in the 
old hard ball will not derive a sufficient degree of moisture ; 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 993 

and this evil will be daily increasing, till the ball becomes so 
dry that it will not even take in sufficient water for their sup- 
port should even a superfluity be given to them. This occurs 
very frequently, and is not often detected until the plants show 
evident symptoms of dying, and may be considered the cause 
of the failures in nine-tenths of the plants planted out where 
this precaution is not attended to. Few plants better illustrate 
this circumstance than that of the beautiful family of Camellia, 
which make very small roots in proportion to the size of their 
leaves and branches, and for want of this precaution may be 
attributed the stinted and sickly appearance v/hich these plants 
very often are found to assume when planted out ; although, if 
attended to in this particular, few plants thrive better or con- 
tinue longer to maintain their places in houses of this descrip- 
tion. Watering at the root should be very punctually attended 
to after planting, until the whole borders have attained a proper 
degree of moisture, and until all the plants in the house have 
extended their roots beyond the limits of their former pasture. 
Afterwards it seldom occurs, excepting where the flues come 
in contact with the borders, that they become too dry. When 
the planting is finished, liberal supplies of water should be 
given them, not only at their roots but also over their branches, 
for a considerable time, particularly if the operation were per- 
formed in spring; and the borders should be carefully examined 
to their very bottoms frequently, to ascertain how they stand 
affected in regard to a proper degree of moisture. In planting, 
in the first instance, it will be necessary to introduce many 
plants to produce any degree of immediate effect, which may be 
from time to time removed as they encroach on those intended 
to be permanent, or as the latter increase in size, which, under 
favorable circumstances, will be the case in a few months 
after planting. As it may not be desirable that they should be 
sacrificed, and as few of them can be removed after being once 
established, without either sustaining injury themselves or in- 
juring those around them, we would suggest the propriety of 
having all that is intended to be so removed, in large pots, 
which will enable the cultivator to remove them at pleasure, 
without much trouble or injury to those that remain. 

6 I. 



994 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Creepers add much to the splendor of a fine conservatory, 
as from the rapid growth of most of them, and the profusion 
of their bloom, they become highly useful in hiding disagreeable 
parts of the building, as well as in supplying a richness of flower 
and foliage towards the roof of the house, which other plants 
cannot be admitted to attain. In their after management much 
may be done by a tasteful mode of training them, so as to form 
festoons from pillar to pillar, or to hang in a seemingly care- 
less confusion throughout the house. The situations where 
they are with propriety planted, are at the bottoms of the pillars 
that support many roofs of this kind of structure, or the bottoms 
of pilasters in the front of others, as in our plate, as well as 
the whole of the back wall, or other opaque parts of the 
house. 

As to the season of planting conservatories, any period of 
the year may be chosen, but from February to September may 
be considered the most favorable- 

ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

The green-house in general use differs little, if any, in form 
from that of houses for the cultivation of fruits, and considered 
merely as such, will answer every purpose of cultivation. 
However, when placed singly in the pleasure ground, or 
flower garden, more fanciful forms may be indulged in without 
any material injury to the plants. 

Where circumstances will admit, it is certainly the most ad- 
visable plan to have aH, or at least three sides of the house 
glazed, as affording more light and less shade to the plants. 
This cannot always, however, be the case ; and when such a 
circumstance occurs, not more than one side, if possible, should 
be opaque. The late Mr. Nicol entertained more correct 
ideas of this sort of building than any author on gardening 
who preceded him, and probably nothing better can be of- 
fered on this subject than the following extract from his 
works : — " A complete green-house, being quite detached from 
other buildings," he observes, " should be glazed on all sides. 
In regard to form, it may be a circular, oval, hexagonal. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



995 



octagonal, or with two straight sides, and circular ends, which 
I think the best form of any ; the next best, an octagon, whose 
sides are not equal, but with two opposite longer sides and six 
shorter sides ; three and three opposite formjing, as one might 
say, an angular oval, the ends being angular instead of round. 
In either of these last-mentioned forms, the stages and plants 
may be more tastefully arranged than in any other. Granting 
either of these cases, the house should be about thirty-six or 
forty feet long, eighteen or twenty feet wide, and ten or, at 
most, twelve feet high above a given level line for its floor. 
The parapet all round to be a foot or fifteen inches high, and 
the upright glasses placed on it four or five and a half feet a 
most. For," as he justly observes, " it is of importance for 
the sake of the finer kinds of plants, and in order to have all 
kinds grow bushy, and flower while young and small (in which 
state they are certainly most attractive and pleasing) to keep 
the roof-glasses as low as possible, just allowing sufficient 
head-room to the tallest person when walking in the passage." 
In regard to the concealment of the furnace and stock-hole, 
which ought to be kept fi'om view, he further remarks : — 
" The furnace and stock-hole may be placed at either end or 
at either side, as may be most convenient, and they should be 
sunk under ground and be concealed. The flue to be con- 
structed to run parallel to, and to be separated from, the pa- 
rapet by a three-inch cavity, its surface being level with the 
top of the parapet, and being crib-trellised for heaths, Botany- 
Bay, and other rare plants. A walk, thirty or thirty-six inches 
oroad, to be conducted all round next to the flue, within 
which to be placed the stages for the more common and the 
taller plants, being raised in the middle and falling to either 
side and end ; corresponding with the glasses, though of course 
not so steep. A row of columns should be placed in the 
centre, in order to support the ridge of the roof, to which 
climbing-plants may be trained in various forms, and might 
be hung in festoons from column to column at top, or other- 
wise, as may be dictated by fancy. The front of the stage 
all round should be raised about eighteen or twenty inches 
above the walk, in order to raise the whole of the plants placed 



996 



THE PRACTICAL riARDENER. 



on it sufficiently near the glass, thus forming the walk into a 
deep alley : the person walking in it having a nan'ow border 
of the finer and smaller plants on the one hand, and a bank 
of the more common and larger kinds on the other; than 
which, when the plants are healthy and thriving, few scenes 
can be more pleasing."' 

The same author further observes: If a green-house must 
necessarily be attached to a wall, or other building, it might 
be constructed very much as above ; with this dillerence, hav- 
ing one of the ends, as it were, cut off, in which case it should 
be placed with its circular end south, or towards that point, 
and the sides pointing east and west." This he considers " as 
the second-best constructed green-house, and in which, ex- 
cepting in the above-described house, the plants would enjoy 
the fullest share of sun and light." 

Many very complete green-houses are to be met with, the 
construction of which differs little from that of hot-houses in 
general, and not^nthstanding all that has been said against 
their appearance, we find plants cultivated in them equal to 
those in houses of more fantastic forms. Of this description 
of house, many good examples may be seen even amongst 
the nursery-gardens round London. That of the large house 
for New-Holland plants in the Clapton nursery, and several 
in the nursery of Mr. Colvil, whose houses, taken as a whole, 
with slight modifications, would not disgrace the groimds of 
the most princely place in the kingdom, may be given as 
examples. 

The Heath-House, or Heathery, is a plant structure, solely 
dedicated to the cultivation of the beautiful flimily Erica. It re* 
quires to be as transparent as possible, situated so as to derive 
the greatest degree of sun-shine, and rendered capable of being 
thoroughly ventilated at all favorable seasons. Examples ot 
this kind of structure are to be met with at Bothwell Castle, 
Wobiu-n Abbey, &c. ; at both places fine collections are kept 
up, although the house at the lasi-noticed place is badly con- 
structed ; and, amongst plant culti\ itors, that of Mr. ]\Iackay's^ 
at Clapton, may be considered as very complete. The leading 
features in the construction of tliis kind of house aie. the 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



997 



nearer the plants are placed to the glass the better, and placing 
them upon stone shelves instead of wood we consider to be 
an improvement, for the purpose of rendering the temperature 
at the roots more cool, or at least more uniform. 

The Orange-House may be considered " the green-house 
of the last century," that is, a house with upright front sashes 
of glass, the roof being wholly or partially opaque. In such 
houses, oranges are found to thrive under good management ; 
and, however defective, are far superior to the orangeries on 
the continent, where the finest specimens of this tree are to 
found. Although oranges prosper well in houses very much 
shaded, or in such as have much less light than those destined 
for other exotics, still they will thrive better in those that are 
more transparent, or in such as are capable of being partially 
shaded at certain seasons; we would therefore propose, for 
houses glazed on all sides excepting the north, should they 
front the south, that they be furnished with creepers of the 
most rapid growth, planted so as to be trained up the rafters, 
and, in the general management, we would recommend, that, 
during the hot months of summer, the whole roof be covered 
with them, to afford a degree of shade of which the orange, in 
common with some other plants, are found to thrive under. 
During the spring and autumn months, the sun-heat would 
only be but moderated ; as in the former case, the creepers 
would not have made much progress, and in the latter they 
could be cut away as the sun falls lower in the horizon. 
During winter they can sustain no injury from sun-heat in 
these northern latitudes, and during that period, the creepers 
could be cut in, and trained so as not to cast more shade than 
the rafters would do without them. In offering this mode of 
culture, we are perfectly aware that many will disapprove of 
it ; however, we have the test of experience to sanction us, 
and if all the other parts of their management be only ap- 
proaching mediocrity, there is little doubt but that fine healthy 
orange-trees may be produced ; a circumstance much desired 
but seldom met with in this country. It is a singular circum- 
stance, that the London nurserymen, who excel all other cul- 
tivators in the management of plants, should either pay so 
Httle attention to the culture of this family, or be so deficient 



998 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



in success. Few oranges that we recollect to have seen in 
the vicinity of London, are well grown, and, with the ex- 
ception of some very fine ones in the collection of Mr. Knight, 
King's Road, Chelsea, we do not know of twenty of large 
size fit for sale, that have been for any length of time in the 
country. Few plants, when good, are so much in demand, 
and few produce a higher price. 

Oranges thrive best when not often removed, therefore the 
practice of introducing them into mansions in times of fetes, 
or for decorating halls, &c., is to be reprobated ; few trees, 
used for such purposes, continue long to prosper. Even the 
removal of them out into the open air in summer, as is gene- 
rally the case with green-house plants, is not favorable to 
them, unless the situation be both shaded and completely shel- 
tered: the foliage of this family is easily injured by the cutting 
breezes to which this climate is so much exposed. Most of 
the finest trees of this kind in the country have not been re- 
moved out of the house for many years, and most of those 
which are annually taken out seldom present any other ap- 
pearance than that of mere skeletons, having little young wood 
and fewer leaves. 

Camellia-House. This very popular genus has certainly 
the most imposing effect when cultivated in a house entirely 
devoted to themselves, either grown in pots or large boxes, 
and placed on stages, as in green-house arrangements, or 
planted out in borders properly prepared for them in the con- 
servatory manner. Indeed there are three genera of plants, 
Camellias^ Ericas, and Oranges, which always succeed best 
when so cultivated ; and as each genus has many species and 
varieties, a considerable degree of interest is to be expected 
from such houses during the greatest part of the year. In the 
construction of a Camellia-house, we may observe, that if the 
intention be to cultivate young or small plants, the same kind 
of house will be Very suitable as that recommended for a 
green-house ; and if planted out permanently in borders, that 
of the conservatory already described, or one nearly approach- 
ing to it, will be very complete. This interesting genus, like 
that of oranges, does not require so abundant a share of sun- 
shine and light as some others, (the genus Erica, and most 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



999 



Cape plants, for example,) at least, they are found to succeed 
perfectly well with a much less share of it. Houses, therefore, 
having much less glass in their construction, which is the 
most expensive material used in their erection, may be used 
with much propriety ; and when the situation will not admit 
of a southern exposure, that of an eastern or western 
aspect may be freely indulged in. In erecting a house ex- 
pressly for the purpose of cultivating Camellias, it is advisable 
to have it rather lofty, as the plants are seen to the greatest 
advantage when from six to eight feet in height, or even 
higher, particularly when well furnished with branches from 
the pot or tub upwards. While the plants are young or small, 
they may be elevated sufficiently upon stages so as to be suf- 
ficiently near the glass, and as they become enlarged, the 
stage may be gradually lowered, until ultimately they are of 
sufficient size to be placed on the floor altogether. 

Houses for Camellias should either be so constructed at first 
as to exclude a certain portion of sun-shine, by being placed 
with their fronts towards the east or west, and in some pecu- 
liar situations even to the north, as these plants delight in 
shade, and retain their beautiful blossoms three times as long, 
when so situated, as when they are fully exposed to its in- 
fluence. Shading such houses as are fully exposed during 
certain seasons corrects this defect, but, let it be remembered, 
that shading is attended with no inconsiderable expense, and 
has always a bad effect in garden scenery. Camellias in ge- 
neral flower early in the season, often in March and April ; 
under such circumstances they perfect their flowers tolerably 
well, and retain them for a considerable period, in houses 
facing the south ; but, to grow this tribe of plants in the first 
degree of excellence, some or other of them will flower at 
least ten months in the year. Those produced during the 
dark months of winter are in general the best, and always last 
the longest. Those that flower during the hot months of 
summer seldom perfect their flowers, and never retain them for 
any length of time, probably not two days. This is also the 
case when fire-heat is used while they are expanding their 
blossoms, and particularly so when fire-heat and want of suf- 
ficient ventilation are combined. Fire-heat is seldom neces- 



1000 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



sary to protect this plant if in a properly-constructed house, 
and we would say never, excepting to repel the most severe 
frost in winter, as it is almost sufficiently hardy to stand un- 
injured our general winters, when planted in any sheltered 
situation. However, in their culture in houses entirely ap- 
propriated for them, a deviation from this rule is necessary, 
when the object is to cultivate them in the first degree of ex- 
cellence. When they are about to form their flower-buds, a 
gentle and moist heat is required, and which may be with 
advantage continued until their buds be completely formed, 
and nearly ready to expand ; at which period, they should be 
either removed to a colder house, or, if the whole be equally 
advanced, the temperature of the house in which they are 
should be reduced to that of its natural state. 



GREEN-HOUSE AQUARIUM. 

The aquarium Is a house furnished with suitable conve- 
niences for the cultivation of aquatic plants ; but the greater 
portion of them are either hardy, and consequently cultivated 
in the open air, or, being natives of tropical climates, are 
tender, and cultivated in the hot-house aquarium. Some few, 
however, very interesting species are from temperate climates, 
and are well calculated for the general temperature of the 
green-house. A small house for their reception is sometimes 
to be met with, the arrangements of which need not be dif- 
ferent from those of the hot-house aquarium, (for which, see 
Supplement,) and the general culture being the same, the dif- 
ference of temperature being understood, any further notice of 
it here might be deemed superfluous. 



Jan.] GREEN-HOUSE ANB CONSERVATOR I. lOOl 



MONTHLY OPERATIONS 

OF THE 

GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



JANUARY. 



As the general ti'eatment of the plants, in both the depart- 
ments of the green-house and conservatory, during the greatest 
part of the year is so nearly alike, we will, for brevity's sake, 
consider them under the same head ; but will, from time to 
time, as circumstances may require the notice of any particular 
trait in the culture of either, distinguish it separately in the 
course of the following monthly directions : — 

TEMPERATURE. 

As the majority of the plants cultivated in the green-house 
or conservatory are natives of temperate climates, and indeed 
many of them are found to withstand a few degi*ees of frost 
without any apparently bad effect, the less fire-heat that is 
applied to them the better. Indeed, a far greater number of 
plants are annually killed or much injured by too free an ap- 
pHcation of that element, than by the total deprivation of it. 
The mere exclusion of frost is perfectly sufficient for the ma- 
jority of them; and when this can be effected without the 
application of fire-heat, the plants will always enjoy the best 
health. There are, however, some plants which cannot be 
well dispensed with in ordinary collections, which are less ca- 
pable of withstanding the cold, and these should, if circum- 
stances will admit of it, be placed together at one end of the 
green-house, where they may be more conveniently protected, 

G M 



1002 



THE PRACTICAL GAKDENEU. 



either by occasionally covering the glass nearest to them, or 
by being placed near those parts where the heat enters into 
the house from the furnaces behind, and which may be con- 
sidered the warmest parts of the house. Succulent, or very 
tender plants, should not be allowed to stand so as to touch the 
glass, but be removed some inches from it. Nevertheless, they 
must, upon no consideration, be placed at too remote a distance 
from the light ; for, during the months of November and Decem- 
ber, the present, and the following month, all the light and 
sun-shine that they can enjoy in the most favorable parts of 
the house will be little enough for them, as the sun with us 
during these months is low in the horizon. Soft spongy rapid 
growing plants are more liable to be injured by frost than such 
as are less luxuriant and full of sap. Thus, a frost sufficient 
to kill the most common Pelergonium, or Geranium, will not 
.ji the least affect the most delicate Erica, Banhsia, &c. The 
majority of plants, in almost every country, have their seasons 
of summer, of winter, of spring, and autumn, and hovrevor 
short the duration of such seasons may be naturally to them, 
with us they coincide nearly in the length of each, as far as re- 
lates to the latitudes in which vre live. It is, therefore, im- 
proper to keep up a high temperature for such plants during 
the short days of winter, when the plants are, as it were, re- 
posing for a short time, to enable them to shoot with greater 
vigour at a proper season. Endeavours to counteract this 
natural disposition in plants for the most part are attended 
with the most injurious consequences, and instead of bene- 
fiting the plants, only induce them to send up weak shoots 
and a few leaves, and consequently rendering them unfit to 
produce either a fine or abundant bloom. As a criterion, we 
may observe, that few good cultivators allow a greater range 
to the thermometer during winter than that of ten degrees, that 
is, fi'om So to 45, excepting by the influence of sun-heat, and 
even that should not be allowed to exceed fifty-five degrees of 
Fahrenheit's scale. 

WATERING. 

Little of this element is necessary for plants in a state of 
inaction, and, like an excess of fire-heat, more plants are 



Jan.'] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. lOOS 

killed at this season by too much of it than by the want of it. 
Some plants require none for many weeks at this season, and, 
as examples, those denominated succulent, with few excep- 
tions, may be given ; most of them will exist without any water 
from November till March, and even a much longer period. 
Bulbous-rooted plants require, during their inactive state, to 
be kept dry, as well as many others, which can alone be de- 
termined by the good sense of the cultivator. 

The mould on the surface of the pots should not be allowed 
to become at all damp ; and if they rather appear to be mo- 
derately dry, till their season of growing again return, they will 
be much better than if kept even so damp, as at other seasons 
they would require to be. As all plants take up and digest a 
portion sufficient for their sustenance of the food which is 
supplied them by the hand of the cultivator, whether it con- 
sists of liquids or sohds, and no more; it therefore clearly 
appears, that supplying them during their inactive state with 
any stimulus, of which to them water is the chief, must be both 
erroneous and injurious. However detrimental a too liberal sup- 
ply of water may be to plants at this season, it does not follow 
but that some exceptions are to be made, but this, like many 
other circumstances in horticulture, can only be obtained by 
observation and practice ; as a rule, however, we may say, 
that all robust plants, and such as are old, will require more 
than those that are delicate and young. Coriaceous, or 
leathery-leaved plants, digest this element more rapidly than 
such as have a delicate foliage; of these, Pittisporum, Ca- 
7nellia, and some others, may serve for examples. In water- 
ing all plants at this season, care should be taken to spiH 
very little on the floors or borders of the houses, and as small 
a quantity on the foliage as possible, as it only tends to gene- 
rate damp ; a circumstance to be carefully avoided, and which, 
if not guarded against, will be attended with the worst of con- 
sequences. There are, however, also exceptions to this rule, 
and these may be given as applying to plants kept in rooms, 
and all such as are kept in green-houses and conservatories in 
London, and other large cities, where, from the density of the 
atmosphere, and its being almost always charged with noxious 
gases, accompanied with smoke and soot, forms on the surface 



1004 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Jan. 

of the leaves a coating of matter which in a short time stops 
the pores of respiration, and, in consequence, the plants soon 
die. To obviate this in a very great degree, repeated syringing 
over the leaves, and sponging those that are large enough to 
admit of the operation, will very much tend to remedy this 
defect. Not that such a mode of culture will enable the citizen 
to display so rich a profusion of plants permanently in his 
green-house or conservatory as the cultivator who lives at a 
greater distance from such an atmosphere; but we have no 
hesitation to say, that such a treatment will enable him to pro- 
long tlie period of their existence for a considerable length of 
time ; and, with regard to some plants, they may be cultivated 
with tolerable success as long as they remain fashionable, 

for fashion dictates even in the choice of plants." 

It may be necessary to observe, that such syringing or wash- 
ing of plants ought to be performed in the early part of fine 
days, and as soon as the operation is performed the house 
should be ventilated to the fullest extent, to admit of the su- 
perabundant moisture being dispelled ; and when the state of 
the weather is such as to render this mode of drying the 
atmosphere of the house impracticable, then recourse must be 
had to fire-heat, but which should be very sparingly applied, 
and sufficient ventilation given to admit of the moisture passing 
off in vapour. The force also of the engine, in applying the 
water, will supply, to a certain extent, the want of wind in 
such structures, and which, according to the experiments of 
Knight and others, appears indispensable to the majority of 
plants. It may appear almost unnecessary to mention, that 
rain or river water is always to be preferred to that from wells, 
at least until the latter has been exposed for some time to the 
action of the atmosphere. But, in this respect, London, as 
well as most other cities, are abundantly provided with water ; 
and cultivators, in all situations, can command that portion 
which falls upon the area occupied with their house, and which 
should be treasured up, if soft water be scarce, or not to 
be had. 



Jan.] 



GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1005 



VENTILATING. 

The admission of fresh air is an indispensable part of good 
culture, for, without it, the plants would soon be drawn up 
and naked, and many of tlicm lose their leaves, and even die, 
while the more hardy would become weak, and naked at their 
bottoms, and devoid of colour. Where plants stand crowded 
upon stages, a circumstance not easily avoided when the cul- 
tivator is ambitious of the number or richness of his collection, 
or when, from a similar cause, they are planted too crowded 
in the borders of conservatories, air in such cases should be 
particularly attended to. In this respect, those houses which 
are capable of being partially removed, become of the greatest 
use ; but all houses for the cultivation of these plants should, 
in their first erection, be made capable of being completely 
ventilated, so that three parts of the year the plants may en- 
joy nearly as much fresh air as if they were planted out. 
During this month, care must be taken that this element be 
as abundantly supplied as possible, for which purpose, the 
ventilators should be opened both at the back and front ; and, 
in mild days, some of the sashes should also be partially opened 
for a few hours. However, in times of cutting frosty winds, 
a sufficiency of air will find its way into the most completely 
finished houses through the spaces between the laps of the glass, 
and at other crevices, to render the opening of the ventilators 
unnecessary. Air may be safely admitted at this season to kec^p 
the thermometer as low as 40° during the time of its admis- 
sion. It may be here also remarked, that it is not altogether 
in the size of the spaces opened, nor the length of time that 
they remain open, that changes the air most completely in any 
structure. The difference of its specific gravity should be 
taken into consideration, and as that which is colder is con- 
siderably heavier than that which is hotter, and as it has been 
sufficiently demonstrated that the lightest or warmest air accu- 
mulates at the top of the house, it therefore follows, that when 
the top ventilators or the top part of the roof is opened only, 
the heated air will ascend by the force of its own gravity, un- 
assisted by any other impetus ; whereas, if the bottom ven- 
tilators or lower part of the house be opened only a small 



1006 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Jan. 



space, the cuiTent of cold air flowing in displaces that which is 
lighter and hotter towards the middle and top of the house, 
and drives it out by its gravity, added to that of the former 
impetus. It is, therefore, more in the just regulation of the 
ventilators, than in the space or length of time they are left 
open, that the most complete change of air can take place. 

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE AND 
CONSERVATORY. 

During this season, the plants in both these departments 
will require to be often looked over, and all dead leaves re- 
moved ; dampness, where it appears, should be removed and 
counteracted by all possible means. The surface of the mould 
in the pots, as well as that of the border of the conservatory, 
should be frequently stirred up, and such plants or branches 
as require support, should be tied up in a neat manner, and 
all dead or decaying branches removed. Cleanliness should 
be attended to ; for, besides the disorderly and slovenly ap- 
pearance which a want of it betrays in the cultivator, a strict 
attention to it will materially aid in maintaining a healthy state 
in the plants. Few plants will be in flower at this season, 
but such as are should be placed in the most conspicuous 
places, so as to make as much of them as possible. Where 
a display of flowering plants is required at this season, it may 
be obtained by having in an auxiliary pit, or house appro- 
priated for that purpose, a succession of such plants, slightly 
forced or retarded. To the first class may be referred, bulbs 
potted in September or October, and roses, lilacs, azalias, and 
other hardy plants, which will bear forcing at this season. 
These, as they are coming into bloom, should be introduced 
both upon the stages of the green-house and into conspicuous 
parts of the conservatory, and will give a gaiety by their 
bloom at this cheerless season, when few of the plants cultivated 
in either the green-house or conservatory are in flower. To the 
second may be referred, the later flowering varieties of C//r?/^«w- 
Ihcimim Indicum, which may be retarded so as to be still well 
in flower ; and many varieties of that splendid genus, Dahlia^ 
which have been grown in large pots, and removed into the 



Jan.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1007 

house on the appearance of frost, will be still, with a little ma- 
nagement, in fine bloom. Indeed, the latter genus is often 
taken up out of the natural ground, while even in full flower, 
and potted ; after which, they continue in a tolerably flowering 
state till towards the end of this month. 

Mignionette sown in September in pots, and protected, will 
now be in fine perfection, and should be disposed of in suf- 
ficient quantity to produce a degree of fragrance which at this 
season will be very desirable. A little artifice is necessary 
during the last, the present, and the succeeding month, to 
give a gay appearance to these departments, as after that pe- 
riod, many of the plants in both will be coming naturally into 
bloom. It may perhaps be thought going rather too far to 
insinuate that even artificial flowers would have a good effect 
at this season, but if these be well executed, they may be 
used, if not with propriety, at least with effect. This we be- 
lieve is rather a novel idea, and, as far as we know, the 
practice has not been carried to any extent in this country. . 
We have been, in conjunction with a gentleman of first- 
rate talents for taste and judgment in these matters, engaged 
in a series of experiments of this kind, which were intended 
to have been exemplified in an undertaking, which unfortu- 
nately, from unforeseen events, has been rendered next to 
abortive. However, the experiments have been carried suf- 
ficiently far to convince us of the practicability of the scheme. 
Of the flowers best calculated for this device, we have found 
the whole genus of Camellia, with all its varieties, to suc- 
ceed the best, and have found less difficulty in getting the 
flowers manufactured ; indeed, so close was the imitation, that 
very skilful judges could not detect the substitute amongst the 
real flowers, at three or four feet distant. Substitutes of this 
kind may be used for climbing-plants, which are the greatest 
ornament of a conservatory when in good keeping; and as 
they are always a considerable distance from the eye, they are 
less liable to detection. Should tliis be deemed an innovation 
on tlie horticulturist's taste, as far as regards the decoration 
of his green-house or conservatory, (for particular occasions,) 
there can be no impropriety in adopting it to any extent in the 
decoration of saloons, halls, or rooms, in times of fetes or 



1008 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [JaW 

balls, which are well-known to be great destroyers of plants ; 
and as these are, for the most part, seen by candle-light, the 
illusion will be the more complete. Thus groves of Camellias, 
covered with innumerable bloom, some fully expanded, others 
less so, of all the forms and colors that this splendid family 
sports into ; and groupes of oranges, laden with artificial fruit, 
or natural fruit fastened on the trees, and bloom, would, of 
themselves, be pleasing objects, and give a character to these 
scenes not ever to be attained naturally, and which would be 
accomplishing a desideratum always wished for, but never per- 
fectly attained. Indeed, it would be difficult to say how far 
this idea might be carried. The liattt ton might be enabled 
readily to convert their drawing-rooms into a temporary con- 
servatory, adorned with all the varied hues of Flora, and, by 
artificial means, diffuse a fragrance by very simple means, both 
exhilarating and delightful. 



PLANTS IN PITS AND COLD FRAMES. 

Where extensive collections are kept up, it will be found a 
very necessary appendage to have one or more pits or frames 
for the protection of plants which are sufficiently hardy to stand 
our winters without fire-heat. Indeed, many of the best culti- 
vators amongst the London nurserymen, manage to keep a 
great portion of their stock in such places ; amongst them may 
be mentioned Mr. Henderson, Pine Apple Place, Edgware 
Road, one of the best cultivators of plants round London ; and 
Jenkins, of the Portman Nursery. The former keeps his 
heaths. Ericas, and many other Cape and New Holland plants, 
in common garden frames, covered with mats, during severe 
weather, and few persons succeed better in their cultivation. 

In all private collections, pits or deep frames will be found 
exceedingly useful for the protection of Ericas, Hydrangea, 
Fuschia, Mysius, and many others Their principal manage- 
ment, at this season, consists in carefully covering them at 
nights, and during frosty days, with mats, sti'aw, or soft hay, 
to exclude the frost, and by ventilating them sufficiently in 
fine weather. The principal feature in their whole winter 
treatment consists in keeping them as dry as possible, and free 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1009 



of clamp ; for which purpose they should be often examined 
during fine days, and all appearance of damp removed or coun- 
teracted. They should stand on, or be plunged in a dry bot- 
tom of coal-ashes, or loose pebbly gi'avel, and should be kept 
clean from mosses or weeds. Dead leaves should be carefully 
picked oif them where they appear, and the plants often turned 
to the sun. 

Pits built of bricks, having their walls twelve inches thick, 
and covered v/ith glass, will protect many species of plants for 
the greater part of the year, with the assistance of a covering of 
mats in times of frost. During severe frosts the side walls may 
be covered by applying a quantity of littery dung, leaves, or 
similar matter, not, however, wdth a view to give any heat of 
themselves, but merely to prevent the penetration of frost 
through them. The glasses should also be covered with double 
or treble mats, or with soft hay, straw, or any more convenient 
substitute. The mere exclusion of frost being sufficient, every 
means likely to attain that end should be minutely attended to. 
In such pits should also be wintered those green-house plants 
which are intended to decorate the flov/er garden borders in 
summer. We flatter ourselves that if this metliod of protecting 
plants during winter were more generally adopted, we should 
then see more respectable collections in the gardens of this 
country; but it is v/ith this, as with many other matters con- 
nected with horticulture, depending, in a very great degree, 
upon the taste and disposition of the gardener. Were collec- 
tions of green-house plants divided into two or three divisions, 
according to their relative degrees of hardness, and each division 
wintered in a department suited for them ; and if greater atten- 
tion were paid to the cultivation of the hardier species already 
in the country, and means used for the introduction of new 
plants, or re-introduction of such as have been lost in the coun^ 
try, that require only protection from frost, our plant collections 
would not be so meagre and limited as they hi general are. The 
green-houso, properly so called, should be stocked with the 
more rare or tender species, and probably one or two speci- 
mens of such as are doubtful, to prevent their loss during 
severe winters. The plant pit should be filled with those that 
are a deorcc hardier, and the cold frame, or turf pit, with the 

Gn 



1010 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [J(t?l. 

hardiest of all, or such as are denominated frame plants. It is 
probable that plants would become, by degrees, under such 
treatment, hardier in each succeeding generation. There are 
some plants which now occupy a place in our shrubberies, which, 
within our own remembrance, were kept in the stove, the genus 
Camia, for example ; and many which, within the same period, 
occupied a place in the green-house, are now treated as per- 
fectly hardy, of these Aucuba japo?iica, Pceonia montan, Cov" 
chorus japonica^ and many of the genus Cistus and 3Iagnolia, 
may serve as examples. Most of the herbaceous green-house 
plants, and all bulbs usually kept there may be reckoned as 
amongst the most likely to stand our winters in such situations. 
It is to be regretted that so little attention is paid to these two 
last divisions of green-house plants, many of them possessing 
great merits when in flower ; probably the want of foilage, or 
continued verdure during a certain period of the year, may be 
assigned as the cause of their scarcity in collections. Many 
Cape bulbs of great beauty may be cultivated with little trouble, 
and require no room in the gi'een house during winter, as they 
are found to sustain no injury by being deposited in any dry 
room or loft, either in the pots, or taken out of them during 
the time of their inactivity. Many tuberous rooted plants may 
be kept in the same way. 

PROPAGATING GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 

As some of these produce no seeds in this country, at least 
many of the more valuable and scarce species, recourse is had 
to the various other modes of propagation, such as by cuttings, 
layers, grafting, budding, &c. ; but of these, that of propagat- 
ing by cuttings is most generally adopted, and more speedily 
accomplished. As all plants do not propagate by this method 
with equal success ; some only by pieces of the old or r pened 
wood, others by the young shoots, while quite soft and young, 
different seasons, therefore, are chosen to suit the kind of plant, 
its state of growth, &c. For some species this month is pre- 
ferred, particularly with such as remain long in the cutting-pots 
before they strike roots, as is the case with most hard wooded 
plants. By beginning thus early, the young plants become 



Jan.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1011 

well rooted in June, and when then potted off, are fully esta- 
blished in the pots to withstand the effects of the succeeding 
winter. 

This operation should De proceeded in as the plants are found 
to be in a fit state, and when, as is often the case, that the 
plants from which the cuttings are to be taken are not advanced 
enough, a slight forcing may be adopted to forward them. 
This is often adopted with such plants as Erica, Polygala, 
Indigofera, Crotolaria, Chironia, and many others, which, if 
placed in the plant-stove, vinery, or peach-house for a few 
weeks, produce shoots very proper for this mode of propaga- 
tion. It is, however, soon enough to put any of them into a 
state of excitement about the middle of this month ; and, in that 
case, by the beginning or middle of next month, they will be in 
excellent order for the process. Those put in at this season, 
or even next month, for the most part strike root sooner, if not 
with greater certainty, if placed in a very moderate tempera- 
ture ; for which purpose, the pots in which they are planted 
should be set on a mild bottom heat, in a close frame, and 
closely covered with bell or hand-glasses, over which should 
be placed the frame and lights ; the closer that they are kept, 
if damp be guarded against, the more complete will be the 
success. 

This season has certain advantages superior to any other. 
The cultivator is more at leisure to attend to the minutiae of 
this part of his charge ; and therefore it is more likely to be 
attended to with greater regularity than at a more advanced 
period of the year, when the whole machine of the operations of 
the garden may be said to be in full action. The sun is now 
less powerful, and consequently less shading is necessary ; and 
a uniform degree of moisture can be longer maintained than 
at any other season without the application of water, which is 
no unimportant trait in this branch of culture. Independently 
of which, all the cuttings, taken just as they begin to shoot, have 
the advantage of those which are put in at a more advanced 
period of their growth, as they have not lost any of their ex- 
citability, and are consequently better calculated for exerting 
their whole strength in the production of roots. 



1013 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



FEBRUARY. 



VENTILATION. 

The instructions given upon the subject of ventilation last 
inontli arc applicable to the present also; but as the season will be 
now advancing, and the sun gaining greater power, more liberal 
ventilation should be from time to time given ; and, as some 
of the plants will now be beginning to break or bud into shoots, 
this is the more necessary, to give strength to these organs 
while yet in their young state, to enable them to produce per- 
fectly formed shoots and buds, without which neither handsome 
nor healthy plants can be expected, and, consequently a mea- 
gerness of flowers. 



TEMPERATURE. 

Much of what was said the preceding month regarding tem- 
perature is applicable to the present one also ; but, as the sun 
■will be now more powerful during the day, less fire-heat will 
be wanted during the night ; indeed, if slightly covering the 
lower parts of the house, or those parts where the plants are 
nearest to the glass with mats, will keep the frost out, it will be 
better to dispense with fire-heat as much as possible. While 
the frost is kept from appearing on the under side of the glass, 
the temperature in the house may be reckoned as sufficient for 
most of the plants within it. This was the criterion always 
adopted by the late venerable Mr. James Lee, of the Hammer- 
smith Nursery, a name so associated with plants, and so well 
known and remembered throughout Europe, as to stand in 
need of no praise from one of his numerous pupils, and may be 
considered as a safe and simple rule to go by. 

WATERING. 

As some of the plants of the earliest habits will now be be- 
ginning to spring, water may be given to them in rather larger 



Feb.] GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1013 

quantities, still however by no means too liberally; as, altliough 
this very nece&sary stimulus is indispensable to them at this 
period, a superabundance of it would be extremely injurious, 
and would not only, as it were, cloy them, but also keep their 
roots in a state unfavorable for affording the necessary food for 
the growth of the plant. Those that as yet show little or no 
signs of vegetation, should be, as recommended last month, 
kept rather dry, at all events till towards the end of this, or the 
beginning of next month. 

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-IIOUSE AND 
CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 

These plants w^ill require to be often looked over, and ail 
decayed leaves and branches cut or picked off as they occur. 
The surface of the pots in the former, and that of the bed in 
the latter, will require to be often stirred up to prevent the 
growth of moss, as well as to prevent the generation of damp. 
Supporting the plants where they stand in need of it, and turn- 
ing those which are portable in the latter, and all of those in 
the former, is an indispensable trait in their culture at this 
season ; for, if left long in the same position, the sides which 
are the most shaded, or farthest from the light, will become 
naked and leafless, and ultimately render them very unsightly. 

In the progress of this v/ork v/e have frequently noticed the 
erroneous practice of what may be termed a general shifting or 
repotting of plants ; nothing can be worse in practice, particu- 
larly in the cultivation of tender exotics. All plants do not 
begin to vegetate at the same time, nor do they all alike de- 
compose the food supplied them at their roots. Some rapid 
growing species will exhaust the mould in the pots in a few 
weeks, while others that grow less luxuriantly will subsist for 
several years upon the same body of mould. These things 
being taken into consideration, the repotting should be regu- 
lated accordingly. Some plants will now be beginning to ve- 
getate, and therefore they should be examined ; and, if in 
need of larger pots, or even of fresli mould in the same sized 
pots, which is often necessary, as it is always desirable to have 
plants in as small pots as possible, they should be attended to at 



1014 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb, 



this season. Greeu-house and conservatory plants, like all others 
confined within the limits of a close atmosphere naturally (even 
under the best management) become drawn, as it is technically 
termed, that is, naked of branches near their bottoms, and often 
become sickly and diseased ; such, therefore, should be headed 
or cut down to a proper height, making choice to cut at such 
parts of the stem or stronger branches as are most likely to 
l)roduce young shoots wherewith to form the future habit of the 
plant. Many plants, with a little management, may be re- 
modelled, as it were, by this means, even after having become 
very unsightly ; and, as far as regards conservatory plants per- 
manently planted out, is the only method of keeping them in pro- 
per form. But, in regard to green-house plants, properly speak- 
ing, as they are seldom required to be of large size, a more eli- 
gible practice will be found in annually propagating and keep- 
ing up a young stock, so that when any of the plants become 
sickly, or are drawn up weak, or otherwise deformed, they 
should be thrown away to make room for young plants propa- 
gated the preceding season either from seeds, cuttings, or 
other means. Many families of plants are thus cultivated only 
for one season or two, and then thrown away ; and by such ma- 
nagement only a healthy and handsome green-house collection 
can be expected. When green-house plants are headed down, 
it is, in most cases, necessary at the same time to shift them 
also ; and, at this early season, those so headed down should 
be placed in a moderate heat for a fortnight or three weeks to 
excite them to break stronger and more regularly into shoots. 
Care, however, must be taken that they be not placed in too 
high a temperature, for that would defeat the end in view. 
Conservatory plants require gi'eat attention, as far as regards 
pruning and training, and this is a very proper season for this 
operation. Pruning of such plants depends upon so many cir- 
cumstances, that no fixed rules can be laid down ; it may, how- 
ever, be premised, that, as abundance of blossom is desirable, 
attention should be paid to produce a flowering disposition, as 
far as can be attained. The natural character or habit of such 
plants is also a desirable point to be attained in their manage- 
ment, and it is, therefore, one which the cultivator should 
study carefidly. All dead or ill-placed shoots should be re- 



GItEEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERV ATORA'. 



1015 



movod, and wlien valuable or scarce plants become crowded 
by those less valuable or choice, the latter should be cut away 
by degrees to make room for them. 

At this season also, conservatory climbers should be ex- 
amined and pruned, so as to produce shoots in such situations 
as it may be desirable to have covered ; a general regulation of 
them should also now take place ; and where any have died, or 
are in a sickly state, their place should be supplied with young 
plants, for which abundant provision should be made by hav- 
ing, at all times, a sufficient stock of young ones for the pur- 
pose. 

ORANGES. 

The orange being a native of India and China, although suc- 
cessfully cultivated in the warmer parts of the South of Europe, 
requires with us the protection of glass, at least for three parts 
of the year ; and some cultivators, as we have elsewhere re- 
marked, keep them always under cover ; and such is our view 
of the subject, that to have this tree both healthy and fruitful, 
it should remain always in that state. However, some culti- 
vators manage to cultivate this tree, who adopt a different prac- 
tice. In some parts of Devonshire it has been found to suc- 
ceed in the open air, and trees are there pointed out that have 
withstood the winter for more than a century, and producing 
fruit as large and fine as any from Portugal. We may also 
here remark, as a proof of the doctrine first laid down (if we 
mistake not) by that valuable patron of horticulture, P. Neil, 
Esq. of Edinburgh, that plants originated from seeds ripened 
in the open air of this country, are most likely to produce a 
progeny of hardier habits, and of all are the most likely to 
become acclimated in this country. This is asserted to be the 
case with the orange trees in Devonshire ; and we know from 
observation that it is the case with many other exotics. Pro- 
fessor Bradley, in describing the large orange trees, which once 
grew at Beddington, in Surrey, says, that they always bore 
fruit in great plenty and perfection ; and that they grew on the 
outside of a wall, not nailed against it, but at full liberty to 
spread, and that they were fourteen feet high, twenty-nine in- 



lOIG THE TRACTICAT GARDENER. [Feb, 

ches in circumference at tlie trunk or stem ; and that they 
covered above one liundred square feet of wall. These trees, 
after having stood in the open air for a great many years, were 
killed at last by the severe frosts in 1739-40. As the cultiva 
tion of the orange, and its associates the lemon, citron, lime 
&c., is probably less understood generally than any othei 
exotic fruit-bearing tree in our gardens, we will here dcviati 
somewhat from the general plan of this work, and detail tlu 
practical observations of several of the most successful cultiva 
tors of this fine family, together with that of our own practice 
in this place, instead of dividing these observations in .thei 
monthly order. 

Oranges, like most all other fruit-bearing plants, are pro- 
pagated from seeds, which ripen perfectly with us, as well as 
from the seeds of imported fruit. Varieties are thus produced ; 
but as it is seldom the object of the British cultivator to origi- 
nate new or improved varieties of this tribe, the young plants 
so produced are most generally intended and used for stocks, 
on which to bud, inarch, or graft approved varieties, which 
have been already cultivated. The sc-eds may be sown at any 
period of the year when they may happen to be procured, or 
they may be kept for several months widi little difference as to 
the ultimate success. From the beginning of February to the 
end of September, however, may be considered the most eligi- 
ble season for this purpose. As it is a principal object to have 
strong stocks, a preference is generally given to the most 
robust growing kinds; and we find Miller, one o'f the earliest 
cultivators of this tribe, preferring those of the citron, and se- 
veral more modern propagators agree with him in this point. 
We have, however, often taken seeds of any of the tribe that 
were the most readily met with, and our success has been com- 
plete. We have, however, preferred the seeds of imported 
fruit, and those of such as have become rotten in the ware- 
houses ; and if they be sown in rich light mould, about the end 
of March or beginning of April, and placed in a mild bottom 
heat, and kept rather moist and close, they will soon vegetate. 
The back of a melon or cucumber frame is a good situation for 
this purjiose. When tlie seeds vegetate, they should liave 
abundance of light, and tlie sun, at that early period, will not 



Feb.] 



GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1017 



be too powerful for them ; but for such as are originated at a 
more advanced period of the year, we have invariably shaded 
during the hottest hours of the day. When the plants are of suf- 
ficient size to pot off, which they will be in the course of three 
weeks after sowing, they are then potted into small sixties, one 
plant in each pot ; the mould used being rather richer and 
stronger than that into which the seeds were sown. When 
potted off, they should be placed in a close frame, with a ge- 
nial bottom heat, the atmosphere of which may stand at from 
55 to GO degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer during the night, 
and a few degrees of rise allowed during sun-shine. As the 
season advances, shading from the full sun should be attended 
to, and a moist genial steam kept up in the frame, which will be 
obtained while the bottom heat is sufficient, by watering the 
plants over head in the afternoon, and shutting up the frame 
closely. Air must be regularly admitted to prevent the plants 
from being drawn up too weak, particularly while the bottom 
heat is strong. Occasional applications of liquid manure should 
be given them once a week, but care must be taken in the ap- 
plication that none of it fall on the leaves of the plants. 

With good success, in four months the plants will be from 
eighteen inches to two feet in height, and may be immediately 
operated upon by grafting, or shifted into larger pots, and kept 
in a moist mild heat till autumn, when they may be gradually 
hardened and placed in the green-house or orange-house till 
wanted for stocks. When strong stocks are, however, desired, 
and when trees with tall stems are the object in view, they 
may, early in the following spring, be placed in a moist bottom 
heat, and cultivated for another season, as already directed, 
taking care that the leading shoot be not injured, nor any 
superfluous side shoots allowed to remain on thorn. By the 
second July after sowing they will be in good condition 
for budding. When stocks are used the first season of their 
growth, we have succeeded by grafting them, when about the 
thickness of a quill, in the following manner : — Young shoots 
of a favorite variety are selected, being rather smaller than the 
stock, and about four or six inches in length. The stocks are 
prepared for them by taking a thin slice off one side (at about half 
their height,) just merely to remove a very small portion of the 

60 



1018 



THE niACTICAL GARDENER. 



wood ; the graft is prepared in like manner, by merely taking 
oft' a thin slice of it ; they are fitted together in the usual man- 
ner, and fastened >vith fresh matting, which is wound round the 
stock, from about an inch below the union, and carried up about 
an inch above it. No clay, but only a httle fine moss, is used 
to enveIoi>e the part operated on, and kept constantly moist. 
The head or leading shoot of the stock is not now shortened, 
but left growing until some weeks after the union is ascer- 
tained to be complete ; it is then Headed down, as close to the 
part of union as convenient, but not too close, for fear of dis- 
placing the graft. The remaining piece of the stock is removed 
some months after the graft is established, and, if carefully done, 
the part of union will, in a few months longer, scarcely be 
visible. When the operation of grafting is just completed, the 
plants are placed under close hand-glasses, within a hot-bed 
frame with a good heat, and seldom removed until the union be 
complete, and that only to give a little water. By this process 
we have had many fine orange plants from two to three feet 
high, and often covered with bloom within two years, from the 
day of sowing the seed. 

The late Gushing describes a somewhat similar method of 
grafting, in his Exotic Gardener, Form the scion as for the 
common whip-graft, and then, without taking off the head of 
the stock, cut from the clearest part of its stem an equal splice 
as smoothly as possible ; do not tongue the scion, but tie it on 
neatly and firmly with matting and clay, in the manner of a 
graft; plunge them in a hot-bed, and cover with a cap-glass till 
the scion begins to grow, and then cut away the top of the 
stock, and remove the matting by degrees." Nairn, in a com- 
munication to the Horticultural Society, details the following as 
his practice : — " Let the operator select as many orange or 
lemon stocks as he wishes to work, and place them on a mo- 
derate hot-bed for a fortnight, by which time the sap will have 
risen sufficiently to move the bark ; the stocks must then be cut 
off, about two inches above the surface of the pot ; and an in-- 
cision made with a sharp knife, similar to what is done for bud- 
ding, separating the bark from the wood on each side. Let the 
scion be cut thin, in a sloping direction, and thrust between the 
bark and wood, and then bound tight with woollen yarn ; but 



Feb.] GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1019 

very great care must be taken in binding to prevent the bark 
from slipping round the stock, which, without attention, it is 
very apt to do. After it is properly and neatly bound, put a 
little loam or clay close round the stock, to the surface of the 
pot, then, with a glass of a proper form (a figure of which he 
gives) to prevent the damp from dripping on the scion, cover 
the whole, and press it firmly into the mould, to prevent the air 
or steam from getting to the plant ; the glass must not be taken 
off, unless you find any of the leaves damping, and then only 
till this has been remedied, when it must be immediately re- 
turned. The stocks must next be placed on a brisk hot-bed of 
dung, and, in about six weeks, the glasses may be taken off, 
and the clay and binding removed ; but it will be necessary to 
bind on a little damp moss in lieu of the clay, and to keep the 
glasses on in the heat of the day, taking them off at night, 
when, in about three weeks or a month, they will be fit to put 
into the green-house, where they will be found to be one of the 
greatest ornaments it can receive. I should recommend," he 
observes, " the Mandarin orange for the first trial, as the fruit 
is more firmly fixed than that of any of the other sorts," for, by 
this method, he has successfully performed the operation with 
not only the flowers, but also the fruit upon the scion, and has 
had no less than seven oranges on a plant, in a pot of the small 
sixty size. 

That successful cultivator, Henderson, of Wood-Hall, de- 
tails his method of grafting the orange tribe as follows : — 
" Take two-year-old wood, cut into lengths of about seven 
mches ; if the stock be much thicker than the graft, cut a 
piece out of the stock of a triangular figure, about an inch 
and two-eighths in length, regulating the depth according to 
the thickness of the graft, and keeping it square at the bottom. 
Displace two leaves at the bottom of the graft, for the con- 
venience of getting it put on ; cut the gi'aft right across under 
one eye where a leaf has been taken off; dress the graft to fit 
the receptacle made in the stock, observing to keep the lower 
end of the graft equal in thickness as above ; always let three 
or four leaves remain untouched on the graft. After the graft 
is fitted in the stock, tie it up with bass matting, and put clay 
round it. If the grafts and stocks be nearly of the same 



1020 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



thickness, cut the stock at right angles, nearly half through. 
Cut off the piece, keeping it equal at top and bottom ; cut the 
lower end of the graft right across under an eye, and with a 
knife prepare the graft to fit the stock. When the grafted 
plants are tied up and clayed, set them at the back of the 
vinery or peach-house, observing to keep them away from the 
flues, as fire-heat is hurtful to them at first ; cover them with 
hand-glasses, or, if a frame can be spared, it is still better. 
Shade them every day, but take the mats off at night ; con- 
tinue the shading till they have begun to grow, when they 
may be exposed to the light. If any stock happens to be so 
tall and thick that it cannot be placed under a hand-glass or 
frame, put two or three grafts on it, set in any convenient 
place in the house, and shade it with mats : it will succeed 
perfectly in this way ; the grafts lose none of the old leaves ; 
and, in five or six months, they will make three or four young 
shoots, six or eight inches long ; these, with the leaves that 
were on the grafts when put on, form a well-clothed little 
plant." 

Orange-trees are also propagated by budding, either when 
the stocks are young, or when they are even of considerable 
size. Handsome plants may be formed by this method when 
young stocks are used, but this cannot be the case when the 
stocks have attained a large size ; and hence arises a great 
defect in many of those that are annually imported into this 
country from France, and particularly from Italy, &c., where 
the stock operated on is often from one to three inches in di- 
ameter at top, and, in consequence, seldom forms a union so 
complete as to conceal the amputation of the stock. When 
this species of propagation is had recourse to upon small 
stocks, a deep frame will be found a suitable place, both that 
the plants may be conveniently shaded, and attended to till 
the bud be faiily established. From the time that the bud is 
inserted, until it be completely taken, with the stock, air in a 
moderate quantity should be given ; and if the operation be 
performed during the hot months of summer, the frame should 
be placed so as to have a northern exposure, or be partially 
shaded, but not under the drip of trees. The period that 
elapses from the time the bud is put on till the union takef 



Feb,] GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 10^1 

place, depends a good deal on the state both of the stock and 
bud, but four or five weeks, under ordinary circumstances, 
will be near the truth. Those which appear to have taken 
at the end of that time, should be gradually untied, and kept 
well supplied with air and water, and occasional shading, till 
the end of summer, when they should be taken into the orange- 
house or gi'een-house for the winter. In the following spring 
the stocks should be headed down to about two inches above 
the bud, and placed, by the first week in March, into a mild 
bottom-heat, and kept in a humid atmosphere. Great care 
should always be taken in applying bottom-heat to this tribe 
of plants; for, although they will sometimes appear to stand a 
considerable degree of bottom-heat, still more injury is done 
by too much of it than too little. The summer after budding, 
they should be kept in a growing state ; and, if ordinary suc- 
cess have attended the process, they will, by the beginning 
of August, be plants of a considerable size. From that time 
till tlie middle of October, they should be gradually exposed 
to more abundant air and sun-shine, to ripen or harden the 
young shoots of the season, to enable them to break strong 
the following year. When the cold evenings set in, they 
should be removed to the orange-house or gi'een-house, where 
they are henceforth to remain. 

Propagating oranges by cuttings, as far as we can ascertain, 
is comparatively a modern improvement in their culture, and has 
been proved most successful by several cultivators of late years, 
and we find it recommended by correspondents both in the 
Transactions of the London and Caledonian Horticultural So- 
cieties. In the latter, that very able cultivator, Henderson, of 
Wood-Hall, gives the following as his practice, and considers it by 
far the most expeditious method of procuring handsome plants: — 
" Take the strongest young shoots, and also a quantity of the 
two year-old shoots ; these may be cut into lengths from nine 
to eighteen inches. Take the leaves off the lower part of 
each cutting to the extent of about five inches, allowing the 
leaves above that to remain untouched ; then cut right across, 
under an eye, and make a small incision, in an angular direction, 
on the bottom of the cuttingo When the cuttings are thus 
prepared, take a pot, and fill it with sand ; size the cuttings, 



1022 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER, 



IFeb. 



60 that the short ones may be altogether, and those that are 
taller, in a different pot. Then, with a small dibble, plant 
them about five inches deep in the sand, and give them a good 
watering over-head, to settle the sand about them. Let them 
stand a day or two in a shady place ; and, if a frame be ready 
with bottom-heat, plunge the pots to the brim. Shade them 
well with a double mat, which may remain till they have struck 
root; when rooted, take the sand and cuttings out of the pot, 
and plant them into single pots in the proper compost. 
Plunge the pots with the young plants again into a frame, 
and shade them for four or five weeks, or till they have taken 
with the pots ; when they may be gradually exposed to the 
light. From various experiments, I found," he says, "that 
))ieces of the two-year-old wood struck quite as well ; and in 
])lace, therefore, of putting in cuttings six or eight inches long, 
I have taken off cuttings from ten inches to two feet long, 
and struck them with equal success. Although I at first 
began," he observes, " to put in cuttings only in the month of 
August, I now put them in at any time of the year, except 
when the plants are making young wood. By giving them a 
gentle bottom-heat, and covering them with a hand-glass, they 
will generally strike roots in seven weeks or two months. The 
citron is most easily struck, and is the freest grower. 1 
therefore frequently strike pieces eighteen inches long ; and as 
soon as they are put into single pots, and taken with the pots, 
they are grafled with other sorts which grow freely." 

In regard to the precise season of grafting, or putting in 
cuttings, this excellent cultivator observes he is not particular. 

Hawkins, in Hort. Trans., describes a method of propagating 
ihis family by cuttings, the principal feature of which appears 
to be, his placing his cuttings so that their base or lower end 
may rest exactly upon potsherds, placed for the double pur- 
pose of draining and facilitating the production of roots. 
Other cultivators propagate sometimes by selecting the young 
succulent shoots as soon as they are done growing, which they 
plant in well-drained pots of light sandy loam, and which they 
.over with a bell-glass, and set in a gentle bottom-heat. The 
success of this method is ascertained in about two months, 
when the cuttings will either have struck root or, rotted off. 



Feb,] 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1023 



Some prefer taking in spring the shoots of tlie previous year's 
growth, which they plant in pots, as above, and cover witli 
glasses in like manner; but instead of putting tliem imme- 
diately in a bottom-heat, they prefer plunging them in a cold 
frame, where they remain three or four months in an apparently 
inactive state : at the end of that time, part of them will have 
formed that callous excrescence at their base which forms on 
most plants previous to the emission of roots, and such as 
have not this appearance at their base, have little chance of 
succeeding. During the following winter they are kept in a 
low temperature, and in the ensuing spring are placed in a 
moderate hot-bed, where they push freely, and become good 
plants. 

Laying, as a mode of propagating oranges, has been tried, 
but not to any extent, so far as we know, in this country, although 
it be not unusual on the continent. This is the less to be 
regretted, as plants of any kind so produced seldom make fine 
trees ; and as the other methods of propagation are so suc- 
cessfully and easily accomplished, we cannot recommend the 
adoption of a process so unlikely to answer the end in view. 
As inarching is a species of grafting, or what is called graft- 
ing by approach, this family may be successfully increased by 
that means, and although we have not observed it in practice, 
we think it very probable that orange-trees may be increased 
in size by inarching several pretty large plants on one stock, 
as is done to a certain extent in the cultivation of CameUlas ; 
at least the idea appears feasible enough to deserve a trial. 

Orange-trees are sometimes propagated from seeds, not al- 
too-ether with a view to obtain stocks, but also for the purpose 
of remaining in their natural state, and instances occur of 
their coming into a fruit-bearing state, while of a small size 
and of only a few years growth : this we learn from a com- 
munication in the Transactions of the Botanical and Horti- 
cultural Society of Durham, Northumberland, 6cc., to be 
practised by Mr. Gray, of Bclsay Castle, who details his mode 
of culture as follows:— "I have at present," says he, "a 
seedling lemon-tree, with upwards of forty green fruit on it, 
likely to swell to a great size ; those which are engrafted or 
budded, I observe, come sooner to a bearing state, but are 



1024 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb. 



never so healthy trees as seedHngs. I find I can bring a 
seedling orange-tree into bearing in six years. I have ob- 
served the young seedling-trees to put out thorns at the base 
of the leaf, and so long as these appear on the young wood, 
no fruit can be looked for, as the tree is in too luxuriant a 
state." To correct this luxuriant habit, he uses the following 
compost : — " Mix half strong brown loam, half peat or heath 
earth, well together, with a little gi'avel to keep the soil from 
binding to the roots ; have pots proportionable to the size of 
the tree ; put them into this soil, which he considers ra- 
ther poor, but it keeps them in good health and in humble 
growth : by this management they come sooner into a bearing 
state. He keeps them in that soil till he sees blossom appear- 
ing, which may be looked for when no thorns push out of the 
young wood. After that he gives them larger pots; then 
takes compost, half strong brown loam, half vegetable mould ; 
breaks some bones small, mixes some in the compost, and 
puts some in the bottom of the pots, in order to feed the rools 
a greater length of time, and drain o(Y superabundant water." 
He proceeds to detail the following very rational mode of after 
culture, which is exactly corresponding with our own views of 
the case, particularly as regards heading down the trees : — " In 
pruning orange-trees, care must be taken not to shorten any 
young wood, as the flower generally appears at the extremity 
only, cutting out any cross useless wood." He very justly con- 
demns the practice of annually heading down orange-trees, and 
observes, " by that treatment it is impossible for trees to bear 
fruit, for in spring they bring forth strong thorny wood, and 
are no nearer bearing fruit than when only one year old." 

The orange, like most other plants, has its peculiar insects, 
who often commit sad devastation on them ; and, in common 
with most every plant, is much infested with Aphides, par- 
ticularly on the young shoots and leaves. These latter are, 
however, easily got rid of, as a powerful fumigation of tobacco 
will destroy them without the least injury to the tree. The 
insects which are by far more to be dreaded, are of the Coccus 
genus, and not unfrequcntly several species may be detected 
upon the same tree. As these insects seem to stand fumiga- 
tion with impunity, nothing from the ordinary modes of this 



Feb] 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY, 



1025 



application can be expected capable of destroying them. The 
application of ammonical gas, however, may be considered as 
an efficacious antidote, but the generation and application of 
that gas are not yet sufficiently understood by practical men to 
be brought in as a remedy against these insects. Washing 
the leaves often with a pretty strong lather of soft soap, ap- 
plied with a sponge or soft brush, is very effi^ctually used fo\^ 
their suppression ; and although it be a tedious method, it has 
the merit of being effectual. In regard to shifting oranges, 
we suspect that as much injury is done by a too frequent re- 
currence to that practice as almost by a total neglect of it, as 
fine oranges are to be met with which have not been shifted 
for many years. The necessary supplies of nutriment which 
they require, should therefore be applied in form of liquid 
manure, or by frequently top-dressing the surface of the pots 
or tubs with sheep's dung, or similar stimuli, which will be 
carried down to the roots gradually by each watering. The 
continental orange-cultivators frequently grow them in boxes, 
in which they are allowed to remain until the box becomes 
quite rotten, and not unfrequently do they, in such cases, place 
the rotten box within one of larger size. The decomposing 
wood, they conclude, supplies the plants with a constant sup- 
ply of food, somewhat similar to the vegetable-mould which 
most cultivators use in forming compost for these trees. Broken 
or pounded bones, horn, and similar matter, appears useful 
for a like purpose, and such is very often practised ^ith some 
of the best cultivators in this country. 

As a very necessary precaution in planting oranges in pots 
or boxes, where they are thus to remain for several years, too 
much care cannot be taken in draining them well, as, if not 
done in a proper manner before the plant be put in, it cannot 
be done afterwards, and, if superficially done, will be attended 
with the worst consequences. For, although the whole orange 
tribe require at certain seasons a large supply of water, and 
always appear to thrive best in a damp humid atmosphere, 
still they are very impatient of too much wet at their roots. 
We have already observed, that this family do not require 
much fire-heat ; a cool equable temperature is what we have 
observed them to succeed best in. Abundance of water, par- 

6p 



THE PRACTICAL gaudener. {Feb. 

ticularly in tlic growing season, partial shading from tlie me- 
ridian sun, and being not exposed to the external effects of 
our climate, seem all that is necessary in producing trees as 
fine as those to be met with in such places on the continent, 
where they are not cultivated in the open air. 

The annexed engraving represents an orange-tub of our own 
invention^ differing from Sir A. Hume's, or those used on the 
continent; and their particular make, as they taper a little, 
gives them a lighter appearance tlian when made square. The 




advantage tliat tliis sort of box possesses over those in common 
use, is, that they may be taken to pieces v.ith very little 
trouble; tlie roots of the trees may be examined; the old ones 
removed, and replaced by fresh mould ; the roots may be 
pruned, and it may be immediately ascertained whether they 
be in a proper suite as regard moisture, Sec. The last par- 
ticular we consider to be very material to their health ; and as 
the sides fold down, the inside of the boxes may be painted 
or pitched as often as it may be judged necessary ; and if this 
point he properly attended to, and the boxes be made of good 
wood, they will last above twenty years. Another great ad- 
vantage which they possess over the boxes alluded to, is, that 
the trees may be taken out of one box and placed in another 
without taking them to pieces, which cannot be effected with 
the others, as they are made of strong framed posts, so joined 
that it is impossible to take out the trees; independently of 
wdiich, only two of their sides are moveable. In taking this 
box to pieces, it is only necessary to pull up the two iron bars, 



Feb.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1027 

and by quietly pulling out two of the sides, the remaining 
sides {a) lift up. It is our general practice to fill the bottom of 
the tubs with broken bricks, tiles, and turf, for draining, so as 
to be level with the top of the bars. 

PROPAGATING GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 

The plants put into a raild temperature, as recommended 
ast month, with a view to produce young wood for the pur- 
pose of making cuttings, will be by the middle of this month 
n good order for that purpose. Most of them will be so, 
,vhen they have attained the length of from two to four inches, 
according to their kinds. Pots should be had in readiness for 
their reception, by being perfectly drained, and filled with 
mould proper for each respective plant. The majority, how- 
ever, strike root in pure white sand, into which the cuttings 
are planted without any other mixture whatever. When the 
cuttings are taken off the mother-plant, they should in all 
cases, excepting such as bleed very much, (as most species of 
Euphorbias and other Lactiniferous plants, which discharge a 
quantity of white milky blood or juice,) be planted as soon 
after taken from the plant as possible. In preparing the cut- 
ting, a very sharp knife only should be used, wherewith to cut 
off all the leaves as close to the stem as possible, without 
wounding it, as far up the cutting as it is intended that it 
should be placed in the sand or mould, leaving a few of the 
top leaves entire, for the necessary purpose of allowing the 
free respiration of the plant to go on. This observation is 
particularly directed to all evergreens, whether tender or hardy, 
and a want of attention to it seems the principal cause of the 
failures that occur in propagating that denomination of plants. 
It may be laid down as a rule, from which there are few ex- 
ceptions, that no cutting should be deprived of all its leaves, 
neither should they be shortened, although we daily see it 
practised. When sand is used to plant the cutting in, it 
should be first pressed down tight into the pot, and after- 
wards well watered previously to the cuttings being put in ; 
and if water be applied after they are planted, with a view to 
settle it round their stems, the glasses should not be put on 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Feb 



them until the Icflvcs arc again perfectly dry. Neither shoulc 
the tlcpth of sand be more than just equal in depth to nearly 
the length of the part of the cutting inserted in it. 

PLANTS IN COLD PITS OR FRAMES. 

Air should be freely admitted to the plants on all favorable 
occasions, and tl^ process of covering carefully attended to, 
for we have often very severe frosts during this month. Clear- 
ing them of dead leaves, dampness, and turning them about 
towards the sun, must be also attended to. 

Some of course will have been destroyed, from particular 
causes, during the winter, and when such is the case, they 
should be removed, when it is accurately determined, which 
will give more room to the remainder, and allow a better cir- 
culation of air to pass through them ; independently of which, 
it will give a better appearance to those which remain. It 
very usually happens that, from want of proper draining, or 
other causes, the water given them does not pass freely through 
the balls, but stagnates about the roots ; and when such cases 
occur, the plants should be taken out and repotted as soon 
as they are observed to be in that state. Those plants 
which are intended to be extensively increased, for the purpose 
of planting out in the flovrer garden, should be selected and 
l)laced in a mild hot-bed, to set them into a growing state, 
in order that cuttings may be sooner obtained of them, so 
that the young plants, so originated, may be strong enough 
to plant out in the borders, as soon as the season will admit 
of it. 



Mar.] 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1029 



MARCH, 



TEMPERATURE. 

Unless in unusually cold weather, little or no fire-heat will 
now be required in either of these departments, and that little 
only must be applied on evenings when there is an obvious 
appearance of frost ; or sometimes in the morning early, when 
unforeseen frost may have partially entered the house ; but, in 
either case, it should be applied with caution. When some of 
the plants nearest the glass may have been slightly touched 
with frost, the cultivator will remedy the evil by sprinkling or 
slightly syringing such plants with cold water as early in the 
morning as possible, after the cause has been ascertained ; this 
will gradually thaw the leaves, and, if done before the sun or 
fire-heat begins to act upon them, will remedy the evil without 
endangering the loss even of the leaves. 

VENTILATION. 

Every fine day, at this time, particularly towards the end of 
the month, the ventilators should be freely opened, and also 
some of the sashes, to an extent in proportion to the warmth of 
the clay ; and the doors or sashes of the conservatory should 
also be opened in the same proportion. Every day air now 
becomes of greater importance to the plants, which, without it 
be given in abundance, would be drawn up sickly and weak. 

WATERING. 

This necessary element must now, to both compartments, be 
more freely administered ; as many of the plants in both houses 
will be beginning to gi'ow, and a deficiency of it would be at- 
tended with the most injurious consequences. Some plants, 
let it be remarked, will, however, still require it in moderation ; 
but this can only be learnt by observation. All that can be 



1030 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



directed upon this subject can never be applied as a general 
rule, to which there are so many exceptions. However, we 
may infer that plants require water, not in exact proportion to 
the season, but to the state of growth in which they are indi- 
vidually, whether considered in the natural precocity of their 
growth, or their state of health. Those plants, for the most 
part, which are still in a dormant state, will require to be kept 
nearly as dry as they have hitherto been during the winter, and 
those which are in a sickly state may come under the same 
head ; such, however, as are beginning to shoot forth should 
have it administered to them less sparingly, and those which 
are considerably advanced, or in full growth, should have 
it in abundance. Watering over the head should, in most 
cases, not yet be much indulged in ; but if found necessary, 
from the situation of the house, or other causes, that is, if the 
foliage becomes dirty or much covered with dust, a slight use 
of the engine or syringe cannot be dispensed with ; but this 
operation should be performed on a fine day, when an oppor- 
tunity may occur of freely ventilating the house to dry up the 
superabundant moisture ; and when such an operation appears 
to be necessary, it may be well to suspend watering at the roots 
for a few days previously. 



SHIFTING AND REPOTTING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

Many cultivators, who may be considered skilful in other re- 
spects, practise what they call a general shifting or repotting 
their green-house plants once, and many twice a-year. We 
have, however, in another part of this work, reprobated the 
idea of this mode of general shifting, as all plants do not grow 
equally fast, as well as that all plants do not vegetate at the 
same period. It would, therefore, be in unison with good 
culture, never to attempt such processes generally, but indi- 
vidually, for many plants only require to be repotted once 
a-year, some not so often, but by far the greater number, 
especially of young plants, will require this operation twice, 
:hrice, or oftener, during the course of one season. It is, how- 
ever, good practice to make a general survey of the collection 
at this time, and having picked out sucli as appear to be in want 



Mar.] 



GllEEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1031 



of room, either for the purpose of attaining greater bulk, as is 
the case when large specimens are desirable, or what is more 
generally the case, as regards green-house plants, to give them 
additional strength, in order to enable them to produce a 
stronger bloom of flowers, as well as to keep them in general 
good health ; then, having made the proper selection, they 
should be carried to the potting shed, and, as it is presumed 
that pots of dificrent sizes are likely to be wanted, as well as 
that different sorts of mould be had in readiness, the operation 
may be proceeded in. In the first place, the mould should be 
dry, indeed it never can be too much so, at this season. In the 
second, the pots should be properly drained, that is, by placing 
one large piece of broken fragment of pot or oyster-shell over 
the hole in the bottom of the pot, with its concave side under- 
most; over this a handful of smaller pot-shreds should be 
placed, according to the size of the pot, and over them a por- 
tion of rough turfy matter, broken into small pieces, the more 
fibrous the better. Formerly, when the practice of sifting the 
mould for these purposes was in vogue, the larger pieces which 
did not pass through the sieve in the process, v/ere made use of 
for this purpose : but now, as that practice is justly exploded, 
as being injurious in the extreme, pieces of turfy mafter are 
kept on purpose for this use. In the third place, the sizes of 
the pots should be chosen according to the size and natural 
habits of the plant. The careless and indolent may find an 
excuse in potting plants into too large pots, as it saves them 
the trouble of repeating the operation so often ; but no part of 
the cultivation of plants, of whatever sort they be, is so bad .is 
this. Some, however, may meet this accusation by remarking, 
that plants turned out of small pots into a conservatory border, 
or into the borders of a flower garden, succeed perfectly well : 
this we gi'ant readily; but the cases are widely different, and 
those who have attempted to grow large and fine specimens of 
exotics, by planting them in very large pots at once, have been 
grievously mistaken in the result. Pots are graduated into 
equal divisions or sizes, from the smallest, which are called 
small thumbs, or thimble pots, about two inches diameter, to 
the largest, which are denominated 07ies, or number ones, and 
which are from fourteen inches diameter and upwards. V/hat 



1032 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Mar. 

those divisions, so exactly made, were originally intended for, or 
at what period of the pottery art they were adopted, is not very 
satisfactorily known ; hut it is of the less importance, seeing 
that this division into sizes is hoth useful and convenient, alike 
both to the potter and to the horticulturist. It may be laid 
down as a rule that, in the process of shifting plants, those that 
occupy the size called large sixties, should be shifted into those 
called small forty-eights, which is the next size larger, and so 
of the rest. It, however, sometimes, and indeed often hap- 
pens, that a greater shift may with propriety be made, but this 
will depend entirely upon the state of the plant, its nature, 
health, and habits. Henderson, of Wood Hall, who, with Mr. 
M*Nab, the very intelligent curator of the Edinburgh Botanic 
Garden, have carried the culture of tlie genus Erica to a 
greater degree of perfection than any other cultivators, makes 
the following remark upon shifting plants, in the Caledonian 
Hort. Mem. " Never shift any plant till the pot be full of 
roots and, en j)a^ssant, this holds good with all plants, 
" when the plants get large, several of them will continue in 
good health for three or four years without shifting, and flower 
well. I have," he says, plants of Erica rclorta," a rather 
delicate species, ** in pots seven inches diameter, which are 
very bushy, being eighteen inches across, and fourteen inches 
high above the pot. Erica infundibuliformis, two and a 
half feet in diameter, and two feet nine inches' high. Erica 
pilosa between five and six feet high, and three feet across, in 
pots eleven inches in diameter. These have not been shifted for 
five years, and are in high health, and covered with strong fine 
flowers, from the mouth of the pot to the top of the plant." 

We may here also observe, that nothing looks so preposter- 
ous and bad as a mere twig stuck in the middle of a huge pot, 
which is sufiiciently capacious for a plant ten times the size. 

It is, however, only upon extraordinary occasions that a 
gi'eater shift can take place at once, than that from large sixties 
to large forty-eights. Sickly or slow growing plants may be 
often benefited by being taken out of one size, and the ball re- 
duced, the roots pruned and singled out, and repotted again into 
the same sized pot. Ericas^ and similar feeble-rooted plants, 
seldom require a greater shift than from one size to that next 



Mar.] GRREN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1033 

above it, while strong fleshy rooted plants, biennials and an- 
nuals, may require a shift of two sizes, but certainly not more 
at once. Much has been said upon composts and compounds 
in which to grow certain plants, and many of those which are 
proposed are as ridiculous as they are useless. All plants grow 
in soils prepared for them by nature, and are of the simplest 
description. It has been remarked by one of the best writers 
on this subject, that out of the three simple earths, viz. pure 
sand, heath, or wdiat is morc generally, although less correctly 
called by the name of bog-mould, and virgin loam, composts 
may be made suitable for any plant ; aquatics, orchedious, and 
parisatic plants only excepted. From these three compounds, 
with the addition of vegetable mould, or rather the mould of 
decayed tree-leaves, and which, when perfectly decomposed, 
have been denominated by a late cultivator, if not the primum 
mobile, at least the secimchim mobile of vegetation, can be made 
of suitable texture for any plant entering into green-house or con- 
servatory collections to thrive in, provided all other parts of their 
culture be equally good. Dung, and every species of manure, 
are seldom used, and never when the end in view is to have 
neat small flowering plants; but sometimes, for individual pur- 
poses, and often in regard to stove plants and oranges ; but, in 
either case, it cannot be even too much decomposed or ameli- 
orated. As a general rule, but from which there are exceptions, 
we may state that most of the plants from New Holland, New 
Zealand, Van Dieman's Land, &c., including the heaths from 
the Cape of Good Hope, will succeed perfectly well in bog or 
heath mould, without any other mixture whatever ; and they 
are also found to succeed equally well in a mixture of that 
mould, and virgin loam in equal proportions, or nearly so, or 
with the addition of a part of pure white sand, in proportion as 
it is wanting in the former, and according to the strength of the 
latter. 

There are also light sandy moulds to be met with upon many 
heaths, and in many parts of the country, in which all of these 
plants will grow ; of this kind of barren mould, that from Kp- 
ping Forest, about Wanstead House, may serve as an example ; 
it is this mould alone that has been used so successfully in the 
Clapton Nursery and elsewhere for some years. It is not the 

r> Q 



103^* 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



colour but the texture that should be attended to in the selec- 
tion ; and that which retains just sufficient moisture, and no 
more, is to be preferred. When the water passes through the 
mould in the pots too rapidly, it may be considered too light, 
and to correct this fault, loamy earth should be added in pro- 
portion ; upon the other hand, when the water does not pass 
through it, but remains long damp, and becomes sour at the 
roots, it is then too strong, and sand should be added until it 
be also corrected. Almost all plants will vegetate from seeds in 
vegetable mould, and many will continue for a long time to 
prosper in it afterwards, but by far the greater part like a soil 
of greater consistency, and one formed of light loam and heath- 
mould, with the addition of sand, may be considered the most 
general. Some few plants prefer pure virgin loam unmixed, 
provided it be light, and not approaching to clay; of this de- 
scription we may instance that splendid, but much neglected, 
genus Protea. In preparing mould for potting plants, as ob- 
served above, it should never be sifted, for, by this unnecessary 
operation, all the fibrous rooty matter, which is true vegetable 
fibre, and the best food of plants, is rejected. Instead, there- 
fore, of the sifting process, let the mould be chopped with a 
sharp spado, and well broken with the back of it, and it is 
then in fine condition for use. The vesjetable fibre contained 
in such mould will supply an extra supply of food to the plants, 
while it remains open and capable of admitting the roots to 
ramble about without restraint ; and by rendering the mass less 
solid, enables the superabundant moisture to pass freely through 
it; whereas, if sifted, the better part of the mould is thus kept 
back, and the whole mass soon becomes consolidated and in- 
capable of admitting the water to pass through, which either 
retains it till the whole mass becomes sodden and sour, or, if 
perchance it be neglected in the watering, the ball becomes so 
hard and impenetrable, that the succeeding waterings cannot act 
upon it, and, as a consequence, the plant perishes at last for 
want of that necessary element. While the process of sifting the 
mould was obstinately persisted in, we recollect to have often 
seen hundreds of heaths weekly lost from this cause alone, for 
many consecutive weeks, in one of the first nurseries in the 
world ; and, as a last remedy, we recollect having seen tliem 



Mar.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1035 

put into a pond by dozens, to become sufficiently moistened 
again. 

When the whole intended to be shifted are finished, they 
should be staked up, if necessary, and well watered over head 
with a fine rose watering pot, both to clear them of the dust and 
filth that they may have accumulated during the process, aa 
well as to settle the mould at their roots. They are then in fit 
condition again to occupy their places in the green-house. 

PROPAGATING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

Under this head it will be readily understood that we include 
those of the conservatory also, as all plants destined for the 
latter are propagated along with, and indeed are cultivated 
with the former, until their size either renders them unfit for 
remaining longer amongst them, or when of a proper size and 
age to be planted out permanently in the latter. 

To enter into the detail of propagating green-house plants 
individually, would far exceed the limits prescribed to us, and, 
indeed, justice could only be done to such a subject in a se- 
parate volume. The cultivator who intends to propagate upon 
an extensive scale, cannot do better than consult the Exotic 
Gardener, by Gushing ; or the Botanical Cultivator of Mr. 
Sweet, both excellent practical propagators and cultivators, 
and whose works on this subject are complete of their kind. 
The former is now becoming scarce, and would be a valuable 
work if revised up to the present time. 

This is now a very favorable season for commencing the work 
of propagation, either as regards the mode of rearing from 
seeds, or propagating from cuttings, layers, or dividing the 
plant, and also for the more expeditious method of grafting, 
inarching, or budding. 

For the propagation of plants, Mr. Sweet offers the fol- 
lowing rational remarks : "A small house should be appropri- 
ated, a north-eastern aspect is preferable to any other, so as to 
have the morning sun, and none afterwards ; they then want no 
artificial shading, for the less sun that cuttings have before they 
are rooted, and the more light, the better. A pit might be made in 
the house, and one part filled with firesh tan, another part filled 



103G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



with rotten tan, and the third with moukl." It is evident that this 
intelligent cultivator is here alluding to nursery cultivation, to 
which he was attached at the i)eriod of his writing on this sub- 
ject; but we would suggest to private cultivators the mode 
adopted by us at this very time in the gardens of H. R. H. 
Prince Leopold, of Saxe Coburgh, which is the application of one 
or more common garden frames, according to the extent of the 
intended increase. But to return to Mr. Sweet's directions : 
" In the fresh tan might be plunged, under hand-glasses or bell- 
glasses, any cuttings of plants requiring heat; in the rotten 
tan, under bell-glasses, any kinds not requiring heat ; and in 
the mould, under hand-glasses, large cuttings of green house 
plants, &c., which require no heat. Cuttings, particularly of 
woody plants, root best in fine sand, and are safer to pot ot\ 
after being rooted, as the sand shakes clean from their roots 
without injuring them. When planted in mould, the roots are 
apt to break off in parting them ; but some of the herbaceous 
or soft wooded kinds will not root well in sand, and must, there- 
fore, be planted in mould. Cuttings must be put in when the 
wood is fit. Some kinds root freely in either young or ripened 
wood, other kinds will only strike in very young wood, and 
others only in ripened wood. From Christmas to April may 
be considered as good a time as any to put in most kinds of cut- 
tings, as they root more freely before the weather gets too 
warm ; but some kinds require to be put in every week through- 
out the year. No leaves should be taken off or shortened, ex- 
cept on the part that is buried in the ground, when the closer 
to the stem they are taken off the better. The more leaves a 
cutting has on it, the sooner it will root, though the majority 
of propagators trim up these cuttings like a parcel of naked 
sticks, which is the very reason of their not succeeding. The 
shallower cuttings are put in the pots the better they root, if 
they be but well fastened; if planted deep they are more likely 
to rot or damp off ; the sand or mould in which they are planted 
must be kept moist, but not too wet, and the glasses must be 
wiped occasionally, for too much moisture on them will make 
the cuttings turn mouldy, and rot off, even after they are rooted. 
When the young plants are rooted, the sooner they are potted 
off the better, in as small pots as they can safely be got into ; 



Mar.] GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1037 



for, if left too long in the cutting pots, the sand is apt to injure 
their roots. When they are first potted, they should be kept 
under a close glass for a few days, or in a frame on a gentle 
hot-bed, and shaded from the sun with a mat till they have 
taken fresh root, (this last is particularly applicable to cuttings 
of stove plants,) then harden them to the air by degrees. When 
the young plants are drawn up too slender, their tops should 
be pinched off, which will make them grow bushy. It is 
always best to top plants when young, if wanted to make them 
grow * bushy ;' if left to run up high, the knife must be used, 
which causes a wound that sometimes is unsightly. No leaves 
should be taken off the plants in this state, except decayed 
ones, for it weakens them very much. Taking off a large 
leaf from a young plant will generally kill it, a circum- 
stance," as Mr. Sweet observes, " with which few cultivators 
are acquainted." 

The majority of shrubby plants will increase by cuttings of 
the branches, although there be exceptions to this rule in some 
of the species of Acacia, and some others, when cuttings of the 
roots are made use of as substitutes ; and some species of 
plants, which are generally easily propagated, such as Peler- 
gonium^ require the same means of propagation, of which 
P. triste, gibbostwii and some others, may serve as examples. 
Some numerous families, such as Erica, are, for the most part, 
propagated from cuttings of the young wood, and the remainder 
from seed. Upon the propagation of this delightful genus, that 
successful cultivator, Mr. Henderson, of Wood Hall, near Glas- 
gow, offers the following remarks : — " The month of July is 
a good time for puttin<^ in most of those cuttings ; but they 
must not be taken off till the young wood be firm. Cuttings 
of Ericas may be put in at any time when the wood is in a pro- 
per state." Many of them will be so by the latter end of this 
month, and sometimes some species are forwarded in a little 
heat, so as to enable their propagation to commence as early in 
the season as possible, that they may be fully established in pots 
before the commencement of winter. But to return to Mr. 
Henderson's mode of propagation: " Take the cuttings off 
the plants, about three-quarters of an inch long, pulling them 
off downwards, strip ofl'the leaves nearly half the length of the 
cuttings ; place the cutting on the nail of the thumb, and, with 



1038 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



a sharp knife at right angles, cut off tlie small end, close to the 
joint or place where it was pulled off the plant. Having done 
this, plant them into a pot filled with small pit or river sand, 
giving them a good watering to settle the sand about them. Set 
them on a shelf where they are a little shaded, cover them with 
glasses, and notice to keep the sand always moist. Some of 
them will be well rooted in three months, and others will re- 
quire six months before they are fit to pot off." Mr. W. B. 
Page, of the Southampton Nurseries, an intelligent cultivator, 
and who was educated in the first school in Europe for the 
cultivation of this genus, observes : " A prejudice having 
spread that the culture of these plants is difficult, one of the 
greatest ornaments of the green-house has hence of late been 
neglected, although the method of culture be as easy and 
nearly as certain as that of the geranium, but requiring a 
little more delicacy in the execution." Indeed, the whole pro- 
cess of propagation by cuttings, requires a deal of nicety in the 
operation, as well as a constant care during the whole process; 
and though long practised upon such plants as the willow, the 
vine, and many others, which must have been pointed out to 
man by Nature soon after his creation, it was, however, so 
little known when applied to delicate exotics, that fifty years 
ago, even in this country, it was scarcely known but to a few 
of the most eminent gardeners. Upon the subject of propa- 
gation by cuttings, as it may be supposed to interest a great 
part of our readers, the following extracts from that valuable 
work, the Encyclopaedia of Gardening, may be both interesting 
and useful : — " In respect to the choice of cuttings, those 
brar.chcs of trees and shrubs which are thrown out nearest 
the ground, and especially such as recline, or nearly so, on the 
earth's surface, have always the greatest tendency to produce 
roots. Even the branches of resinous trees, which are ex- 
tremely difficult to propagate by cuttings, when reclining on 
the ground, if accidentally or otherwise covered with earth on 
any part, will there often throw out roots, and the extremity 
of the lateral shoot will assume the character of a main-stem, 
as may be sometimes seen in the larch, spruce, and silver fir. 
Cuttings then are to be chosen from tl.c side-shoots of plants 
rather than from their summits or main-stems, and the strength 
and health of side-shoots being equal, those nearest the ground 



Mar.] 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1039 



should be preferred. The proper time for taking cuttings from 
the mother-plant is when the sap is in full motion, in order 
that, in returning by the bark, it may form a callous or 
protruding ring of granular substance between the bark and 
wood, whence the roots proceed. As this callous, or ring of 
spongy matter, is generally best formed in ripened wood, the 
cutting, when taken from the mother-plant, should contain a 
part of the former year, or in plants which grow twice a-year, 
of the wood of the former growth, or in the case of plants 
that are continually growing as most evergreen exotics, such 
wood as has begun to ripen or assume a brownish colour. 
This is the true principle of the choice of cuttings as to time ; 
but there are many sorts of trees, as willow, elder, &c., the 
cuttings of which will grow almost at any season, and even if 
removed from the mother-plant in winter, when the sap is com- 
paratively at rest. In these, and other trees, the principle 
of life seems so strong and so universally diffused over the 
vegetable, that very little care is requisite for tlieir propagation. 
Cuttings from herbaceous plants are chiefly chosen from the 
low growths which do not indicate a tendency to blossom ; but 
they will also succeed in many cases when taken from the 
flower-stems, and some rare sorts are so propagated." Tlie 
leaves of some plants, especially such as are succulent, will 
form plants, such as Bryophyllitm, Iloija^ See. ; and the late 
Professor Thouin observes, that the same may be stated of 
certain flowers and fruits. 

In the case of plants which do not readily protrude roots 
by cuttings, artificial means are sometimes made use of 
to induce this disposition in them ; several curious notices 
have appeared in the Transactions of the Hort. Soc. upon this 
subject. Ringing the cutting, that is, if a piece of the bavk 
in form of a ring be removed off' the cutting previously to its 
separation from the mother plant, a callous will be formed, 
which will readily emit roots when taken off* and planted in 
the ground; and it has been conjectured that a li^ati re 
would operate in a similar manner, though not so effectually, 
if made to encircle the shoot destined for a cutting, and should 
be taken off" when an accumulation of sap has apparently been 
produced. In either case, the cutting should be amputated 



1010 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER* 



[Mar. 



below the circles, and the cutting should be planted so as to 
have the callous covered with mould. 

The situation and position of cuttings, when placed in the 
pots, form no unimportant part of the process of propagating. 
By this means many kinds of cuttings will strike roots, when 
planted so close to the edge of the pot as to come completely 
in contact with it, that would not succeed if planted ever so 
carefully towards the middle of the pot ; and others, when 
planted in the earth, will seldom, if ever, throw out any roots, 
but will most readily, if so planted that their base or lower end 
touch the bottom of the pot. This has been exemplified by 

correspondent in the Ilort. Soc. Transactions, in the case 
of eleven cuttings of oranges out of thirteen, which he rooted 
by this method, and afterwards by placing them in a moist 
heat. Some cuttings will root freely, when so placed, in a 
pot of sand, that either their sides touch the sides of the pot 
for their whole length, or their lower end come in contact with 
the broken potsherds or pebbles with which it is drained. 

A friend of ours has succeeded in striking pots full Ericas 
by selecting the bottom of a flower-pot, and so placing it within 
the pot for the cuttings, that the lower ends of all the cuttings 
touched the buried part of the pot, the cuttings being planted 
in pure sand. 

PROPAGATING BY SEEDS. 

This is the mode pointed out to us by Nature ; but as many 
of our finest and rarest plants do not even flower with us, 
much less perfect their seeds, other methods have been had re- 
course to. When seeds can be ripened with us, or when they can 
be procured from abroad, it is the means of obtaining plants 
in the greatest numbers, and the only method of obtaining 
new or rare ones. On this head, Mr. Sweet observes : — 
" Where seeds are received from abroad, some of them should 
be sown immediately, whatever season it may be ; for some- 
times seeds will grow when first received, which will not if 
kept some months longer : but the general time of sowing 
should be early in spring, that the plants may get strong be- 
fore winter. A gentle hot-bed is best for bringing up most of 
the tropical kinds, but some few will come up better on a 



'I H E Q U IE. E PINE. REDUCLi 




■istfiT Bow Ai; 



Mar.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1041 



shelf or on a flue of the hot-house. The sooner seedhngs are 
potted off the better, as they do not miss their moving when 
potted off very young." Seeds from temperate chmates, such 
as New-Holland, and similar countries, such as the Cape of 
Good Hope, &c., vegetate best in a cool temperature, rather 
moist than dry; for which purpose, houses with a northern 
exposure, or nearly so, are preferred. Most of these will ve- 
getate freely in peat-earth, if finely sifted, and kept moderately 
moist and shaded, but the time of their vegetation is very 
uncertain ; some appearing in the course of a fortnight or three 
weeks, others not in eighteen months, or even two years. 
Many experiments have been tried to hasten their vegetation, 
but none with very great success. Thick-shelled seeds, such 
as Banksia, &c., have been scraped nearly to the quick with 
a knife, and steeped in a chemical preparation with as little 
success. Steeping in milk and water may soften the shells of 
some seeds ; and if it do them no good, cannot do them any 
possible injury. When seedling-plants appear above ground, 
they should be regularly and carefully watered with a fine 
rose watering-pot, but this operation should never be per- 
formed when the sun is shining on them. 



PROPAGATION BV LAYERS. 

This is a mode of propagation to which recourse is had in 
the case of such plants as do not freely strike root from cut- 
tings, and it is best performed in spring, before the ascent of 
the sap ; or, if not performed then, may be done with equal 
advantage when the sap is fully up, so that, as far as regards 
the plants under consideration, February and March, in the 
former case, and June and July in the latter, are considered 
the proper seasons. The processes of laying are various, 
and applicable to most shrubbery plants and trees. Green- 
house plants are generally layed either in the pot in which ihe 
plant grows, or more frequently in others that are filled with 
mould and brought close to it. In either case, the shoot in- 
tended to form the future plant is bent down, and a portion 
of it buried in the mould, in which position it is secured by 
means of a hooked peg. Sometimes the part of the branch 

6r 



1042 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar, 



buried in the mould is slightly notched, split, twisted, or 
otherwise mutilated, and sometimes it is put under the mould 
without any catting whatever. " If the cut or notch," says 
an author on this subject, " in the stem does not penetrate at 
least half way through, some sorts of plants will not form a 
nucleus the first season ; on the other hand, if the notch be 
cut nearly through the shoot, a sufficiency of alburnum or soft 
wood is not left for the ascent of the sap, and the shoot dies. 
In delicate sorts it is not sufficient to cut a notch merely, be- 
cause, in that case, the descending sap, instead of sending out 
granulated matter in the upper side of the wound, would de- 
scend by the entire side of the shoot; therefore, besides a 
notch formed by cutting out a portion of bark and wood, the 
notched side is slit up at least one inch, separating it by a 
bit of twig, a small splinter of stone or potsherd." Plants 
originated by layers, are not afterwards so likely to produce 
fine specimens as those originated by the other modes of pro- 
pagation ; but there are some which we are necessitated to 
produce in this way, because they are more difficult to pro- 
pagate by any other. 



PROPAGATING BY BUDDING, GRAFTING, AND INARCHING. 

Many plants are propagated by one or other of these means ; 
but as they have been already described in the Fruit Garde?i, 
any notice of them here may be deemed superfluous. We 
cannot, however, omit noticing a very ingenious mode of 
grafting, described by M. Oscar Leclerc, of the Jardin du Roi, 
Paris, in a communication to the editor of the Gardener's 
Magazine, and said to be the invention of Mr. Blaike, an 
eminent British gardener, who long resided in France, and 
who may be considered as the founder of modern gardening in 
that country : " This mode of grafting," observes M. Leclerc, 

which I shall henceforth call the Graffe Blaikie, succeeds 
in most plants, both of the hot-house and open air ; and it 
seems particularly well calculated for the propagation of in- 
tertropical plants and trees. The success which attends it on 
delicate hot-house plants, and particularly on those which are 
hard-wooded, is very difficult to be obtained by any other 



Mar.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 10 Iv] 

means. During the time when the sap is in full activity, the 
scion must be procured, if possible, of exactly the same dia- 
meter as the stock on which it is to be grafted. 

" First make two lateral oblique incisions, exactly similar, 
the one on the stock from above to below, the other on the 
scion from below to above, and both sloping from without 
towards the centre or interior of the wood. The tongues are 
then cut in form of a long wedge, by stripping them of their 
bark. The cut parts are then re-united, taking care, as usual, 
to make them coincide as exactly as possible. The scion being 
bound by ligatures to the stock in the ordinary way. The 
inferior part of the scion, that is, the lower, is plunged in a 
vessel of water. It will, however, be necessary to remove 
the water from time to time, and to renew the base of the 
submerged scion by cutting off its extremity. 

" The stock is sometimes headed down immediately after 
the operation, in which case, particular care must be taken to 
leave a bud or a shoot above the incision, in order to attract 
the sap to the place where the operation was performed. Some- 
times, however, the stock is not headed down till after its 
union with the scion is completed. 

" When the plant operated on is small, and the scion of a 
delicate species, the plant should be covered with a bell-glass 
to prevent the too great transpiration of the leaves. The air 
in the interior must be occasionally renewed, as, without this 
attention, it would, by the evaporation of the water, be ren- 
dered too humid. If the diameter of the scion be less than 
than that of the stock, the operation must of course be dif- 
ferent from the preceding. In such a case, the incisions must 
be limited simply to two longitudinal ones, of equal dimensions, 
one on the scion, the other on the stock. This is the easiest 
and the most natural mode, and also the most favorable for 
giving solidity to the graft." 

This mode of grafting is, we think, particularly applicable 
to oranges, lemons, &c., and these plants, engrafted by any 
of the ordinary methods, that will admit of a portion of the 
scions being left long enough to be inserted into a phial or cup 
of water, will facilitate the operation. Some cultivators prac- 
tise this mode of engrafting in this country; and a variety ')f 



1044 



niE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Ma7\ 



it may be noticed as practised by that intelligent and inde- 
fatigable botanist, Mr. Murray of Glasgow, who substitutes 
for the water a potato or turnip, into which he inserts the 
bottom end of the scion. Some propagators have recom- 
mended inserting the lower end of the scion into the mould 
of a pot, kept at a proper degree of heat and moisture ; and 
in some cases where this has been practised, the scion has 
rooted into the mould, and where such has occurred, the 
part below the union of the graft has been cut off, and has 
consequently produced a perfect plant, giving thus two plants 
instead of one. Instances have also occurred of the scion 
rooting into the water, and in like manner producing a plant. 
It may be mentioned, as a necessary precaution in the above 
method of grafting, that to prevent too rapid evaporation, 
produced either by the sun or winds, a cap of stout paper or 
parchment has been recommended, which may be fixed a 
little below the part operated on, and so contrived as to en- 
close the whole of the upper part of the stock. This pre- 
caution becomes particularly necessary when the operation is 
performed in the open air, and particularly in the case of 
resinous or gummy trees. 

Of the plants which belong to those departments, which are 
propagated by these methods, may be enumerated the families 
of Camellia and Citrus^ the varieties of which are for the 
most part propagated by the two latter methods, as are some 
species of Daphne, Berheris fasicularis, and various others. 
Sometimes grafting is performed on the roots of some rare 
plants, as in the case of Pa^onia papaverac'iay which is often 
grafted on pieces of the roots of Poeonia moutan. 

Experienced operators propagate plants by these means 
with much success, and indeed the idea of increasing the 
size of a Camellia, for example, to an almost unlimited ex- 
tent, by inarching very large branches, or, in some cases, 
entire plants upon others of greater size, appears to us to be 
perfectly practicable. As the size of these plants adds to their 
value, and as they are several years before they acquire a 
large size, however well they may be cultivated, this mode 
of increasing them certainly deserves to be more generally 
adopted. No plant, that at present adorns our conservatories, 



Mar.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1045 

has greater claims on our attention than the one in question, 
and there are few who have seen the two splendid specimens of 
this plant, which were long and scientifically cultivated by 
Mr, Knight, the surviving one of which is now exhibiting in 
the Colosseum collection, and which has above thirty different 
varieties growing upon it, but who would be ambitious of 
possessing similar specimens. Large specimens of Camellias, 
and of several other plants, are more likely to be quickly 
attained by a process of this kind than by any other. The 
precise season of performing the above operations on exotic 
plants, will always be governed by the state of the wood on 
the plants, and by no stated period of the season. When 
the wood or buds are in a fit state, which has been described 
in the Fruit Garden, then the operation should be pro- 
ceeded with. 

PROPAGATING TENDER ANNUALS. 

Tender annuals are plants of one year's duration only, as 
the name imphes ; and those termed tender, in contradistinc- 
tion to hardy ones, are those which are natives of tropical 
or very warm climates. Much of what has been said on 
rearing annuals in the Flotver Garden is applicable in the 
present instance ; and the species which are most commonly 
cultivated, are balsams, cockscombs, globe and pyramidal 
amaranthuses, &c. ; although many new and very interesting 
ones have been of late years introducetl, and are in many 
cases, in a certain degree, substituted for them. The above, 
however, have long been popular flowers ; and in every 
garden, where the convenience exists, a certain portion of 
them may be expected to be cultivated. The rule laid down 
for the culture of any one of this description of plants, may 
be said to apply very generally, with slight modifications. 

The seeds, therefore, should be sown any time this montli 
in pots, pans, or boxes, and should be placed in a cucumber 
or melon-frame, or in one put up on purpose, of an almost 
equal degree of temperature. The seeds should be sown mo- 
derately thick, and covered lightly. The mould should be 
both light and rich, as the end in view is to have large and 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mar. 



vigorous plants. When the seeds vegetate, water should be 
daily applied, as circumstances may require; and when of 
sufficient size, they should be potted off into small pots of 
light rich mould ; the sooner they are potted off after coming 
through the ground, the better, as they will experience a less 
check than if left till of greater age or size. The leading 
feature in their whole management is to keep them gi'owing 
rapidly ; and as soon as their roots have nearly filled the pots 
into which they are first planted, they should be removed into 
those of greater size, and so on until they have attained their 
full size. If kept steadily growing, and abundantly supplied 
with water, they will not often show a disposition to flower 
until of a large size, which is particularly to be desired. But 
if stinted in pot room, or planted in too poor or light soil, or 
at any time checked for want of sufficient heat or water, they 
will come into flower prematurely, and consequently be small, 
and of much less value. Most of them, particularly balsams, 
thrive in good rotten dung, or, at most, with a small portion 
of rich loamy earth mixed with it. Some cultivators stimu- 
late them by the application of liquid manure, obtained by 
steeping the dung of sheep or pigeons in a quantity of water, 
until it becomes highly impregnated with it. This application 
is of much importance to them, and is easily applied ; how- 
ever, care must be taken not to allow any of the liquid to come 
in contact with the stem or leaves of the plants. 

Throughout their whole course of culture, the nearer that 
they are kept to the glass the better, as by that means they 
will become stocky and not drawn up, which they are very 
liable to do if not attended to, and in that case would never 
become fine plants. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1047 



APRIL. 



TEMPERATURE. 

Fire-heat may now be dispensed with in either of these de- 
partments, excepting on very particular occasions, such as 
drying up any excess of moisture, or occasionally about the 
beginning of the month to repel any sharp frost, which, though 
rarely happening at this season sufficiently intense to injure 
these plants, still, should it so happen, several degrees of less 
frost would be more injurious to them now, when they are just 
beginning to shoot forth, than at an earlier period of the 
season, 

VENTILATION. 

As the days become warmer, ventilation must be increased 
in proportion. A want of it at this period would be attended 
with very injurious effects. Every fine day, for several hours, 
the ventilators, when used, should not only be opened, but a 
number of the doors or lights opened still farther, in order to 
admit a sufficiency of this balm of life. Towards the after- 
noon, they should be shut up, and that should be done before 
the atmosphere of the house becomes too cold, as a genial 
degree of warmth from sun-heat is now necessary to encourage 
a disposition of growth in the plants. 

WATERING. 

Water should be more liberally supplied both to the plants 
in pots, and also to those planted out in the borders, than 
hitherto ; and this must be applied less sparingly, accordingly 
as the weather is fine, and as the month draws to an end. In 
fine days, a gentle syringing will be extremely useful to the 
plants in both departments, to refresh their foliage and to 
clear them of dust or other filth; but this should only be 



1048 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



applied in the forenoon of very fine days, so that all dampness 
may evaporate before the houses are shut up for the night. 

DESTROYING INSECTS. 

Insects of various species and varieties will now be making 
their appearance, particularly on old stinted plants, and upon 
such collections generally where the plants are not in a thriving 
state. In a general way, insects, as we have already ob- 
served, are not the cause of diseases in plants, but the effects 
of it. Healthy and well-kept plants seldom are attacked by 
them, whereas sickly and ill-managed ones are sure to be in- 
fested by them. Some species are more liable to be annoyed by 
them than others, and Oranges and Camellias, in a particular 
degree, especially when stinted and ill grown. As the species 
which attack these are for the most part of the genus Coccus, 
the only effectual method of ridding them is by sponging them 
off with a brush or a piece of sponge with soap and water, 
going over the leaves individually. The Aphis, or green fly, 
frequently attacks the young shoots of the former ; and in such 
cases, a safe, cheap, and efficacious remedy is to be found in 
fumigations of tobacco, or by anointing them with a strong 
decoction of that narcotic herb. That minute and destructive 
enemy, the red spider, will not appear, if fire-heat has not been 
too freely applied ; but even then, a free use of the syringe 
or garden-engine will subdue them, or, what is more rapid in 
execution, although less agreeable in such structures, brushing 
the flues over, when heated for the purpose, with flour of sulphur, 
mixed in water, and applied with a large brush. As this latter 
remedy produces a very disagreeable smell in the house, ven- 
tilation must be freely indulged in for some days afterwards ; 
and when more speedy means are necessary, sprinkling the 
floors and other parts of the house with odoriferous perfumes, 
or bringing in, in abundance, sweet-scented plants, such as 
Mignionelte, Neapolitan violets, &c. 

TENDER ANNUALS. 

The plants of tuis description, originated from seeds sown 
last month, should throughout this be attended to, and 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1019 



abundantly sup[)licd with water, t\ir, heat, and sufficient pot 
room, to obtain them in lirst-rate perfection. As a succession, 
seeds of all those sown last month should be again sown, and 
managed as therein directed. 

As they M ill now be increasing in size, and the number ne- 
cessary in an extensive place being considerable, a separate frame 
or frames should be appropriated for them, where they can be 
cultivated with greater advantage to themselves imd less injury 
to other plants. It may be now also necessary to sow in con- 
siderable quantities seeds of all this denomination of plants, as 
many of them will succeed well, if planted out in the borders of 
the flower garden. 

PROPAGATING PLANTS. 

As the spring and autumn months are best calculated for 
this purpose, exertions should be made to forward the putting 
in of all cuttings intended to be propagated, as after next 
month the sun becomes too powerful for them to succeed well 
without a great deal of shading, which is not only trouble- 
some, but never answers the end in view so effectually. 
However, as we have already observed, there are some that 
require to be put in every month of the yean Our observation 
above is applicable to a general process of propagating only. 

PROPAGATING ERICAS. 

This very interesting and numerous genus is best culti- 
vated, as we have already observed, in a house dedicated 
exclusively for themselves ; and where such is the case, such 
house is known by the appellation of heath-house or heathery, 
and to be complete should contain from two hundred and fifty 
to three hundred species, which will afford a considerable 
share of bloom throughout the year. Heaths are compa- 
ratively of late introduction ; for we find that, in Miller's time, 
few were known, and those only of the hardy kinds : none of 
the Cape species being at that time introduced. To His late 
Majesty George the Third we are considerably indebted lor 
the hitroduction of this charming genus of plants. That mo- 

6s 



1050 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



narch, at his private expence, sent Mr. Masson, a most assi- 
duous collector, two voyages to Africa, for the almost express 
purpose, and by his exertions, the first collection of Ericas in 
this country was formed. The late venerable Mr. James 
Lee, in company with Mr. Kennedy, of the Hammersmith 
nursery, may be looked upon as the first professional charac- 
ters who embarked in this speculation, and their collection was 
long looked upon as unrivalled in Europe. These were not only 
the first commercial collections formed, but there also the mode of 
culture first devised, which has been the means of disseminating 
them throughout Europe, chiefly under the management and 
direction of our late ingenious, although unfortunate friend, 
Gushing. Subsequent collectors have added considerably to 
this genus ; and although last, not least, that indefatigable 
young botanist, Bowie, who not only visited Africa with a view 
to discover new species, but also to draw conclusions fi-om 
their natural habits, to enable us to improve their culture ; 
and from the observations made by him, and freely communi- 
cated to us as well as to others, there is no doubt, that had 
he survived his second journey, this genus, which hitherto 
has been considered rather difficult to propagate and cultivate, 
would have been much improved by his valued observations. 
A genus so interesting, and we may say, so long fashionable, 
must necessarily have attracted the attention of home culti- 
vators ; and from the profusion of flowers, which most of the 
species produce, and their parts of generation being for the 
most part so perfect, we need not be surprised at the many 
hybrides which the care or curiosity of the cultivator has pro- 
duced. To the valuable exertions of the Hon. and Rev. 
W. Herbert, we are primarily indebted for many plants of 
this description ; and fi:om his paper upon this subject, in the 
Trans, of the Hort. Soc, we are led to infer, that this pro- 
miscuous impregnation goes on to a considerable extent at the 
Cape, where milUons of them must be in flower at the same 
time. 

Heaths, like most other plants, propagate themselves fi:om 
3eed, although most of those cultivated in this country have 
hitherto been originated from cuttings ; few from layers, and, 
so far as we know, none have been propagated by grafting, 



Apr.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. J 051 

or similar processes. A considerable portion of them ripen 
their seeds with us, and there are annual importations of seeds 
from the Cape. Those seeds ripened in this country vegetate 
most readily; whilst those imported are often too old, or 
sometimes injured, before they reach us. As those imported 
generally reach us in winter, they should be sown early in 
spring ; indeed, some cultivators advise their being sown im- 
mediately after their arrival ; but we have hitherto found, that 
if sown too soon, that is, in February or the beginning of 
March, that they do not vegetate so quickly, and, in conse- 
quence, many of the seeds are rotted : for it is a maxim that 
should never be lost sight of in the culture of this tribe, which 
is, that artificial heat should be never employed, excepting in 
some cases of slow growing kinds, that may require a slight 
heat to draw the young shoots out to a sufficient length for the 
purpose of cutting ; but even in this case, the seldomer that 
they are so excited, the better. 

Artificial heat, therefore, is injurious to the process of ori- 
ginating heaths from seeds ; we, therefore, in our own prac- 
tice, as well as from observation of that of others, prefer the 
latter end of March or beginning of April for sowing these 
seeds ; the natural warmth of the season then is sufficient to 
stimulate vegetation, and the young tender plants so originated 
have not the chance of being destroyed by damp cloudy wea- 
ther, which we often experience in spring, and which would 
be of the utmost injury to them in their young state. Where 
extensive collections of plants are kept up, and in all large nur- 
series, there is generally a seed-house, that is, one expressly 
dedicated for the rearing of plants from seeds ; such houses 
are generally low, having a northern aspect, as is the case in 
the Hammersmith and other nurseries. 

Cultivators, who have but few seeds requiring such a struc- 
ture, content themselves, therefore, with a good garden frame 
and glasses ; and as such is portable, it can be placed where 
it is either shaded from the meridian sun, or great care taken 
in shading it artificially. The situation of such a fi^ame should 
be both dry and airy, for damp would be extremeh- injurious 
to the young plants. Pots should be prepared for the seeds, 
of ordinary sizes, but those known as seed-pots are to be 



105^ THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Apr, 

preferred ; they are broad and shallow, which admits of a 
considerable surface for the seed to be sown on, and of being 
rendered perfectly dry at bottom. Great care should be taken 
in draining them, for although the surface will require to be 
kept pretty moist, still no impediment must be left whereby 
the superabundant moisture would be prevented from passing 
freely off. The directions given for draining cutting-pots will 
be, if acted upon, sufficient for this purpose. The mould 
upon which the seeds of heaths are sown, should be of the 
sort called peat-earth, having naturally a considerable portion 
of fine white shining sand in it, or, if deficient in this material, 
it should be added to it by the cultivator. 

As the seeds are very small, the mould for this purpose, to 
the thickness of an inch and a half, should be sifted very fine, 
and the surface of the mould in the pot rendered smooth and 
level with a small circular piece of board, say of three inches 
diameter, having a nail driven into the centre of its upper sur- 
face, by which the operator can use it to much gi'eater advan- 
tage. Upon the surface so prepared, the seeds should be 
thinly sown regularly all over it, and covered with the same 
kind of mould to the thickness of one-eighth of an inch, more 
or less, according to the size of the seeds, as some are larger 
than others. The pots so sown should be then placed upon 
the platform in the seed-house, or upon a floor (if in frames) 
of finely-sifted coal-ashes, and after being gently watered with 
a very fine rose watering-pot, be shaded from the sun. This 
shading must be continued constantly on during sun-shine, 
until the plants be from half an inch to an inch high ; after- 
wards it must be gradually removed to harden them by de- 
grees, to fit them for potting off into separate pots. Some cul- 
tivators place bell or hand-glasses over the seed-pots when sown, 
and when such can be spared, they may be with some propriety 
used. For five or six weeks, the surface of the mould must never 
be allo>ved to become dry, but be daily examined, at the end of 
which time, the seeds may be expected to have vegetated. 
When such is the case, the bell or hand-glasses should be 
gradually removed, first by being lifted up about a quarter of 
an inch, and increasing this air, until entirely removed. Some 
seeds of course do not vegetate so soon as others, therefore 



Apr.] GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1053 

the pots should be still carefully attended to ; but if after three 
months, or little more, all hope of their vegetating may be 
given up. Plants, so originated, will be about the middle or 
end of September in a fit state to plant out into thumb or 
thimble pots, as they, are called, and which are the smallest 
sizes that are made. — (See September.) 

Heaths which ripen their seeds in this country, should be 
sown as soon as they are ripe, provided this do not occur 
after the first of September ; such as ripen afterwards (and 
several do so) had better be kept packed up in paper till the fol- 
lowing April, when they may be sown as above directed. Plants 
originated at this time will be sufiiciently strong by autumn to pot 
off; and it is even better then to pot off such as are very small, 
than allow them to stand in the seed-pots all winter. It is 
perhaps not easily accounted for, but plants stand the winter 
better when potted off in autumn in single pots, than if they 
were to remain in the seed or cutting-pots all winter ; and the 
same rule holds good in regard to potting off' cuttings propa- 
gated at any period of the year when quite young, that is, 
immediately after they have commenced making roots. This 
is not perhaps generally known, at least it is not always 
acted upon, as many persons, from an idea that the plants 
will become strong and better rooted, defer too long the pro- 
cess of potting off', and, in consequence, lose both time and 
many of their plants. It may, perhaps, not be quite out of 
place here to observe, that such seedlings or cuttings as have 
originated in the fine white sand of cultivators, should have 
their roots completely cleared of it before they are potted in 
their natural mould ; for although most plants emit roots in 
that sand, it becomes injurious to many of them after they 
quit their cutting or seed state. Directions for propagating 
by cuttings have been already amply detailed, to render a re- 
currence to that process here unnecessary. 

We may here however remark, that this family are less 
annoyed by insects than most other exotic plants, still they 
are not entirely exempt ; for that destroying insect, the green 
fly of gardeners, sometimes attacks the heath, and as it is 
found impatient of the usual remedy, tobacco smoke, the best 
cultivators dip the plant, or parts infected, in a decoction of 



1054 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. l^P^' 

tobacco liquor. Mildew sometimes attacks the heath ; but this, 
like the cause of its appearance in all other cases, must be 
owing to damp or stagnation of air. To remedy this evil, has 
not always been found an easy task ; indeed, we recollect, 
about two years ago, to have seen nearly the whole collection 
of this family in the nursery of a cultivator, who is allowed to 
be one of the best in the neighbourhood of London, nearly 
destroyed by it. Free ventilation and a dry atmosphere seem 
the basis of a certain cure, and the application of flour of 
sulphur dusted on the plants, or put on them in form of paste, 
may be considered as effectual in removing the evil. 

CAMELLIA. 

This very popular family, like that of Erica, Pelergoritwif 
and Orangeve, has always the best effect when cultivated in a 
house by themselves ; and as there are certain seasons in 
which this genus requires a ti*eatment almost peculiar to itself, 
their separate culture is therefore the more necessary. The 
splendor and profusion of the blossoms of this genus do not 
only attract our notice, considered merely as an ornamental plant, 
but has a considerable claim on our more intimate regard, when 
we consider it as supplying us with one of the necessaries 
of life, and probably one of the most exhilarating and useful 
medicines of which our Pharmacopeias can boast. From the 
species Camellia bo/tea, vtridis, and sasanqua, are obtained 
the well-known tea of commerce, which is imported by us from 
China, where these three species, together with C. jajjonica, 
grow in abundance, and in that country attain the character 
of evergreen shrubs or low trees. From these species have 
been originated, by cultivation, the many varieties, amounting 
to no less than twenty-eight, as enumerated in Sweet's Hortus 
Britafinicus, besides many others, which have either appeared 
since the publication of that useful work, or been not alto- 
gether definitely settled at the time ; one of the latter class. 
Camellia japonica, var. C/iancIclarii, we have chosen for our 
figure, named in honor of Mr. Chandelar, of the firm of Chan- 
delar and Buckingham, successful cultivators of this genus, and 
who have originated a collection of varieties from seeds. The 



/Ijjr,] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1055 

most successful and generally adopted method of propagating 
this family, is by inarching or grafting; by either of these 
means each variety is perpetuated, but new varieties are only 
to be obtained from seeds ; and as these seldom ripen, at least 
in any quantity, in this country, and few are imported in a fit 
state to vegetate, the propagation of new varieties is conse- 
quently a matter of some importance. As, in most other cases, 
it is from single flowering plants that seeds are to be expected, 
although sometimes the semi-double flowers also produce them, 
and of these, the common single red is the most prolific in 
aflfording seed. Sometimes seedlings so obtained are used only 
for stocks, whereon to work other rarer kinds, although some- 
times they are kept till they attain a flowering state to ascer- 
tain their relative merits. Mr. Knight, of the Exotic Nursery, 
has shown us many seedling plants thus originated, which 
assume as yet different characters, so far as the buds, leaves, 
&c. are concerned, from those from which they have sprung ; 
and, under the management of that very scientific cultivator, 
every justice may be expected to be done them. These we 
understand have been principally obtained from the mag- 
nificent specimen which he so long and so well cultivated, 
and to which we have already alluded. Stocks, however, are 
for the most part obtained by nurserymen from layers of the 
common single red, v/hich they have often planted out in pits 
for this purpose, or from plants originated from cuttings of 
the same or equally common sorts. CameUias are sometimes 
budded, but for the most part are either grafted or inarched, 
and in either case, the process of tongueing is dispensed with, 
as weakening the stock ; and that mode of grafting, termed 
side-graftingy is preferred. It may be observed, that, of all 
the stocks, for this or any other purpose, those obtained from 
seeds are the best ; but, in regard to Camellias, as the seeds 
are two years in coming up, cultivators seldom wait till such 
stocks are of proper size to be operated on. Sometimes the 
double Camellias are obtained from cuttings, but this is both 
a tedious and precarious method of increasing them. 

As to the proper season for grafting or inarching Camellias, 
the spring is the best, and just at that time when the plants 
have done flowering and are beginning to grow. This state 



1058 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



This, however, is daily seen, and even in collections which 
ought to show a different example. Neither should plants be 
tied up in a stiff or formal manner, nor contorted into shapes 
which Nature has never designed. The natural character of 
all plants is the most pleasing, and those who wish to con- 
strain them into other shapes, betray a great want of taste, 
and even littleness of mind. Neat sticks should only be made 
use of, and be so placed in the plant as to be as much con- 
cealed as possible. Short pieces of stout wire may be used 
with great advantage, as it combines strength, durability, and 
neatness ; and bamboo or other canes, used for the same pur- 
pose, may be considered an improvement in this branch of 
exotic culture. 

Plants of climbing or creeping habits, such as are employed 
in covering the opaque parts of green-houses or conservatories, 
and which are, when in good keeping, their greatest ornament, 
should be regularly and neatly tied or nailed up as they ex- 
tend in growth, to prevent them from breaking, and more 
particularly from having an appearance of confusion and dis- 
order. The different passifloras will be great ornaments to 
the conservatory at all seasons, as they produce their flowers 
in great abundance, and some of them even perfect their fruit : 
of these, P. eclulis, of which our figure is a representation, is 
peculiarly handsome, and fruits in abundance, but requires 
the assistance of the cultivator in assisting its impregnation. 
The fruit is much esteemed in its native country, and it not 
unfrequently appears on the tables of the rich in this country. 
However, the flavour is such as not to be much admired by 
the majority of persons. 



May.] 



GREEN-HOUSK AND CONSERVATORY. 



1059 



M A Y. 



VENTILATION. 

Air should be now abundantly admitted during the whole 
of every fine, and for a great part of every moderate day; 
shutting up the house, however, before the atmosphere is 
cooled too much by the chill of evening. 

WATERING. 

Watering should be applied now more freely than hereto- 
fore ; and as some plants, while growing, require a very con- 
siderable portion of it, it will be advisable to examine the 
plants in the green-house every morning and afternoon. We 
presume that it is almost needless here to observe, that fiats, 
pans, or saucers, should jiot be used under the pots ; such a 
practice is so totally at variance with good culture, that none 
but the most obstinate or ignorant will use them. The plants 
in the borders of the conservatory will now be growing ra- 
pidly, and will require frequent supplies of water, both at their 
roots and also over their tops, which should be applied with 
\he syringe or garden engine. 

MANAGEMENT OF TENDER ANNUALS. 

The plants of this description, originated from seeds sown 

the two former months, should be attended to both as to 

shifting into larger pots, as well as with water in abundance. 
(For further particulars, see last month.) 

REMOVING THE PLANTS OUT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

Towards the end of this month, but not sooner, and then 
only if the weather be fine, and all likelihood of frost be 
past, many, if not the greater part of these plants, may be 



1060 



THE PRACTICAL GARDEN F.R. 



[Mai/. 



removed into their summer quarters. This is a very old and 
reasonable practice. Experience, that safe guide, sufficiently 
proves the utility of the practice ; and some plants which are 
even often nihabitants of our stoves during winter, are bene- 
fited by a free exposure to our climate for at least two months 
of the year. This practice is, however, less prevalent here 
than on the continent, particularly in some parts of Germany ; 
but even with us it is becoming more general. 

All those which are denominated Cape and New-Holland 
plants, with many of those from China and Japan, are usually 
turned out about this season, with the exception only of those 
which are in flower, from which it is desirable to obtain seeds, 
or when their flowers are either too delicate or rare to be 
trusted out ; such as these are usually kept in the green-house 
until their seeds be ripe or their flowers faded. The situation 
in which they are placed when exposed to the sun, without 
the intervention of glass or other protection, is of much im- 
portance. A situation fully exposed to the sun is to be 
avoided, as well as such as are entirely shaded ; and that 
which is under the drip of trees may be considered the worst 
of all. A spot moderately shaded by high walls, hedges, or 
buildings, is to be preferred ; but where a display of pic- 
turesque taste is to be displayed, situations in the flower 
garden, shaded from the meridian sun, should be adopted. 
Here, if they be placed about in natural groups, harmonizing 
widi the surrounding shrubs and plants, the effect will be 
imposing, and very different from the common practice of 
crowding them up in some obscure corner, as if hiding them 
out of sight. Plants, so turned out, should not be plunged in 
the borders, at least the more delicate and rare species ; but 
as the covering of the pots would be desirable, they may be 
contrived to be hidden by covering them with moss, different 
species of H^jpnum, &c. Two advantages naturally present 
themselves by this practice ; first, the hiding of the pots, 
which can never well accord with flower garden scenery ; and 
secondly, preventing evaporation from going on too rapidly, 
which all plants in pots are exposed to when not plunged, 
and when much exposed to the sun, as it proceeds rapidly not 



Mai/.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1061 

only from the surface of the mould in the pots, but also from 
their outer surface all round. 

A saving of watering would also be obtained, and the tem- 
perature, as well as humidity at their roots would be kept 
more regular, and of course in fitter condition for the roots to 
live in. During wet weather this covering might be removed, 
either partially or entirely, and repla-ced when more dry and 
warm. Damp situations will of course be unfit for either of 
these modes ; but let it be also remembered, such situations 
are unfit for plants to stand in, even although placed on the 
surface. Coal-ashes or pebbly gravel would be good strata to 
plunge plants in, as in either there would be but little fear of 
their roots suffering from damp. Those who prefer the present 
practice of standing them on the surface, should prepare it 
for them by laying a floor of finely-sifted coal-ashes or gravel, 
smoothly rolled down, on which to stand the plants, as either 
will form a dry bottom for them, and, to a certain extent, pre- 
vent worms from getting into the pots ; a circumstance to be 
carefully guarded against. Some collections are arranged upon 
wooden stages, as was formerly exemplified in the gardens at 
White Knights ; but this practice is objectionable, inasmuch 
as the pots are far too much exposed to the action both of sun 
and wind, and the mould in them can seldom for any length 
of time be kept in any degree of uniform moistness ; a cir- 
cumstance of evident injury to the plants. Such as are tall, 
and likely to be blown down by winds, or other causes, should 
be supported as well as the nature of the case will admit ; for 
this purpose, the London nurserymen run a system of cords 
in different directions, supported by neat rods, through their 
beds of green-house plants with very good effect ; and when 
the plants are bushy and fine, the cords are noi much seen. 
In arranging plants in pots, some little degree of taste should 
be displayed, but not of tliat cast so often met with, of ar- 
ranging them in geometrical forms, which, like similar figures 
in flower garden clumps, have always a stiff and formal ap- 
pearance. Irregular figures should be preferred, and an irre- 
gular outline of surface should also be attended to, and not 
that stiff shorn sameness of outline which has been the prac- 
tice for above a century. Fine specimens should be placed in 



1062 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mai/, 



conspicuous situations, which not only show off the character 
of the individual, but also aid in giving a more natui'al appear- 
ance to the whole. Very large specimens of exotic plants, 
such as /Igavtti Acacia, &c. will have a good effect, if placed 
out on the grass portions of the flower garden or on the lawn ; 
but as the pots into which such are necessarily grown are large 
and would be unsightly, they should be sunk into places pre- 
pared previously for them, sufficiently large to receive the 
pot or tub, and which should be placed upon a brick or two 
to render their bottom perfectly dry. Such places may be 
constructed of brick-work, having a cover to be placed over 
them during the season, when no plants are in them, admitting 
of a little mould over the cover, upon which turf may be laid, 
to leave the lawn entire. Or, when a regular system of this 
kind is adopted, hardy evergreen plants in tubs, boxes, or 
pots, may occupy them when their more tender occupants are 
in their winter dwelling. Groves of Camellias and Oranges 
may be thus introduced in favorable situations upon the lawn 
or flower garden with good effect. But where fine specimens 
of these plants are required or admired, we cannot recommend 
their being so treated, except upon very particular occasions, 
and those of short duration. More hardy plants will answer 
this purpose without injury, whereas either of the two above 
mentioned can never for any length of time be trusted out 
with safety. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE AND 
CONSERVATORY. 

As the plants are removed from the stages of the green-house, 
those tender annuals which have been forwarding in frames 
or other conveniences, should, as they attain their full size, 
or as they begin to come into flower, be brought in to re- 
plenish this department, as well as some of the less tender 
stove-plants, where such are kept. By the help of these, the 
green-house will not lose its interest for a single day, and the 
stove-plants will be much benefited by this free exposure to 
sun and air, as well as having more room than in their own 
department. 



May*] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1063 

The tender annuals, particularly some of those latterly 
introduced, will make a fine show here till the season returns 
when the green-house plants must again occupy their own 
place. The conservatory may be kept gay now by the intro- 
duction of many of them into it, tastefully arranged through 
it amongst the other plants, and into such parts of it as were 
lately occupied by fine specimens of plants in ornamental pots 
or vases, and which will now be disposed of out of doors. 
When any of the flowers decay, they should be cut off, where 
the saving of seeds is no object ; and those plants which be- 
come old or sickly, should be also removed, and replaced 
with others in greater perfection. Climbing plants should be 
attended to and regularly tied up, and all dead or decaying 
leaves picked off them, and the whole should be kept clean 
and neat, and all parts that will admit of it duly washed, or 
otherwise cleaned. 

PROPAGATING GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS. 

This is a very proper season for propagating most or all woody 
or shrubby plants, such as Banksias, Dri/andras, MetrosideroSf 
and similar plants, and in particular most of the genus Erica, 
as the young wood of all these species, and most of a similar 
description, will be in a fit state for the process. As the season 
is now sufficiently mild for such plants to stand out in the 
open air, it is also found that the process of propagation goes 
on much better out than in the house which has become much 
too warm for them. A sheltered and somewhat shaded situ- 
ation should be made choice of, such as behind a wall or 
hedge, but not under the di'ip of trees. A bed of decayed tan, 
coal-ashes, or similar matter, should be prepared for the pur- 
pose, deep enough to admit the pots being plunged up to their 
brims ; over this bed, so formed, should be placed a close 
fi*ame and lights, under which the pots should be plunged as 
they are filled with cuttings. As the pots are plunged they 
should be covered with hand-glasses, in addition to the bell- 
glasses over each pot, particularly heaths and similar plants. 
Hai'dier or more free-striking cuttings need only be covered 
with the hand-glasses ; and such as are evergreen and large 



1064 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Mai/. 



leaved, such as Camellia, Laurus, need not be covered at 
all, as they will strike root better when only covered with the 
lights of the frame. The frame being filled, or the required 
number of cuttings put in, the whole should be shaded with 
mats from the sun daily, and uncovered at sun-set, or nearly 
at that time. 

A very great degree of attention is requisite to be paid them 
once or twice a-day, from this time until they have all struck 
root, to shade them properly, and to examine them frequently, 
to guard against damp, or other disasters, of which they are 
very impatient. The glasses should be every morning taken ofi 
and wiped with a clean cloth, and dried, if at all damp from the 
condensation of steam. Not only the smaller or bell-glasses 
require this care, but also the hand-glasses and even the lights 
of the frame. When any of the pots appear to be getting too 
damp, the glasses should be removed for a short period, until 
sufficiently dried. Water they will require only in a very 
limited quantity, but this must be supplied more freely as 
they began to make roots. 

For plants propagated in May, or even June, this is a very 
reasonable way ; and it often happens, that, from unforeseen 
circumstances, many will have to be deferred till this time, 
although, for general purposes, we would recommend the 
process of propagation to have been commenced much earlier, 
as already noticed. By adopting the above, an opportunity 
will present itself of again putting in cuttings, for such as 
may have failed, amongst those put in during the earlier spriiig 
months, and also of increasing such as may not till now have 
made young wood sufficiently strong for the purpose. 



rJunc.'] 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



JUNE. 



VENTILATION. 

The doors, sashes, or other parts of the conservatory, that 
are capable of being opened, should now be kept open most 
of the day, except in the case of very cold or windy days, as 
the plants will require now all the fresh air that it is possible 
to admit to them. Conservatories that are for the most part 
portable now begin to show their character, and may be by the 
middle of the month removed. 

The plants which now occupy the green-house, if the hints 
given last month have been acted on, will require to be ven- 
tilated according to the state of the weather. It is yet only on 
fine days that the sashes can be safely opened to any extent, 
or for any length of time, as the temporary inmates are im- 
patient of much cold. But as the end of the month advances, 
it may be more freely indulged in, as they will have become 
hardier by that time, as well as that the season will have be- 
come more genial. 

CARE OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS SET OUT LAST MONTH. 

Watering must be attended to as the state of the weather 
demands it ; during droughts, these plants will require mucli 
more water than they did while in the house, as evaporation 
goes on more rapidly. In time of wet or cloudy weather, they 
should be less liberally supplied with it, as the same process 
goes on more slowly. Any of the plants that may have been 
over-watered, or are become too wet from rain, bad draining, 
or other causes, should be turned over on their sides, or placed 
in exposed situations, until they become sufficiently dried up. 
They should then be examined by being turned out of the 
pots ; and if imperfectly drained, should be repotted, and af- 
terwards replaced in their former situation. Such as require 
to be supported, should be neatly tied up, and all dead leaves 
picked off. The surface of the pots should also be kept per- 
fectly clean and free from weeds, and be occasionally stirred 

() u 



1066 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[June, 



up, which will give them a neater appearance, as well as con- 
tribute to the welfare of the plants. Any fine, rare, or curious 
plants which come into flower, should, if required, be removed 
into the conservatory, where they may remain till their bloom 
has faded. 

The proper time for watering plants at this season, whether 
in the house or out in the open air, is the afternoon, as soon 
as the sun no longer shines upon them, and from that time till 
the evening. It will, however, often be necessary to water in 
the mornings also, and upon extraordinary occasions, even 
through the day. In watering while the sun is shining upon 
them, care must be taken that none of the water be spilt on 
the foliage, as it would scald their leaves, and render them 
very unsightly ; and water applied to them during the hours 
of sun-shine is soon dried up, indeed before the plant has 
time to absorb enough for its sustenance. Gentle syringing in 
the evenings, during continued dry weather, will be of much 
service to them, by cleaning the foliage of dust, and refreshing 
them at the same time, and will also tend to cool the atmo- 
sphere round them, which at this season is of great advantage 
to them. 

Succulent plants may be, when the collection is extensive, 
very advantageously placed out upon artificial rock-work, and 
in this way have a good effect ; the reflection of the heat from 
the flints or stones will induce a disposition in them to produce 
their flowers in perfection. While out of the green-house they 
will require very little water, none indeed, except in dry 
weather, as the dews at night and the humidity of the atmo- 
sphere will be to them sufficient. 

SETTING OUT PLANTS. 

Such plants as were deemed too tender to be turned out last 
month from the green-house, may be by the middle of this 
month safely set out. Such as stand in need of shifting into 
larger pots, or otherwise renovated, should be attended to as 
they are taken out ; and such as are in want of support should 
be neatly tied up, and otherwise treated, as directed for those 
set out last month. 



July 8^ Aug.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1067 



JULY. 



The directions given for this department for the last month, 
is, in every respect, applicable to this also. Any repetition 
here may therefore be considered unnecessary. 



AUGUST. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OP THE GREEN-HOUSE AND 
CONSERVATORY. 

The directions given in the preceding months for the ma- 
nagement of these houses, are in every respect applicable to 
this ; and, under good management, both may be kept in a 
profusion of flowering plants, as the tender annuals and other 
substitutes will be now in the greatest perfection. To retain 
the flowers of most of these plants for the longest possible 
period, they should be abundantly supplied with water ; and 
where convenient, without producing any disagreeable effect, 
shading them from the sun for a few hours daily will also con- 
siderably aid in lengthening the period of their flowering. 
Those which show a disposition to produce seeds, amongst 
the annuals, if not wanted for particular purposes, should 
have the seed-vessels taken off' as they appear ; for, however 
curious it may appear, annuals may be kept in a flourishing 
state for a considerable number of months, nay, many of them 
may be kept for several years by the simple process of keeping 
them from forming or perfecting seeds. 

POTTING OR SHIFTING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 

We have already directed, at an early period of the season, 
the necessity of frequently shifting or repotting plants ; few 
weeks will pass, where there are good collections kept up, but 



1068 THE rilACTlCAL GARDENER. [^^i^g- 

tills process will be required to some given extent. The plants 
being out at this time, their several states can be readily as- 
certained ; and if all that require it bo now shifted, they will 
be well established again in the pots before the winter season 
sets in. This operation is, it must be acknowledged, too ge- 
nerally put off till too late a period of the season, and, in 
consequence, the plants shifted have riot time to make fresh 
roots to support them during winter, which is the real cause 
of a great loss in some collections, although it be seldom 
attributed to it. Many cultivators, however, and amongst 
them too some of the first London nurserymen, adopt a 
different plan, but one by no means to be recommended, 
and that is, to shift only at the times of putting out or taking 
in the plants, and this plan, they tell us, is to save trouble ; 
but the reward of such a practice is, that many of the plants 
die, and many more are scorched up by the sun, having few 
or no roots to support them, and by the end of the season only 
begin to grow when they are about to be taken into the house ; 
whereas, if otherwise treated, they would have quite a dif- 
ferent appearance. By shifting early in the season, say the 
middle of March, the plants will have filled their pots with 
roots before they are taken out of the house, and will have 
made their wood and leaves sufficiently perfect, so as to be 
little affected by the sun and keener air to which they are ex- 
posed By shifting at this season, as observed above, the 
plants will have filled their pots with roots before taken into 
the house, and so be better fitted to stand the winter. At this 
time they are also liable to send down roots, which, finding 
their way through the pots, extend themselves in the ground 
underneath them, and to the inexperienced eye appears to be 
lapidly improving, many of the robust growing kinds making 
very luxuriant shoots and leaves ; but they would be far better 
without them, as when they have to be taken up in September 
or October to be placed in the house, their roots are neces- 
/ sarily broken off, and the plants thus experience a check, 
which they do not soon recover. 



Sept.] GREEN-IIOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1069 



SEPTEMBER. 



VENTILATION. 

The evenings will now, particularly towards the end of the 
month, be beginning to become chilly and cold, ventilation 
must therefore be attended to, although during the day the 
plants should be as much exposed as possible ; yet, during the 
night, particularly in wet weather, they must be shut up, at 
least all the roof-sashes must be closed. If the green-house 
be kept too much shut up at this time, many of the plants will, 
if not totally die, at least experience a very great check, and 
in consequence lose many of their leaves, and some of the 
more succulent or luxuriant shoots will damp off altogether. 
As they were gradually exposed to the action of air and sun- 
shine in spring, so must they be gradually weaned from it at 
this season. In mild weather during the night, the ventilators, 
if any, should be kept open ; and where there are not these 
conveniencies, the front or end sashes should be left partially 
open, so as to admit a pure current of air without admitting 
rain, which would be the case, were the roof-sashes to be 
opened. 

The same rules are to be applied, in a certain extent, to the 
conservatory also ; as the plants have, during the summer, been 
fully exposed to the air, they should now also be gradually 
accustomed to a less degree, accordingly as the cold weather 
approaches. It is only on very mild nights that much air can 
be admitted after this time ; but during every day, until towards 
the end of the month at least, it should be admitted freely. 

WATERING. 

Plants in pots will for the most part require less water now 
than formerly ; and those which are denominated succulents, 
may, with few exceptions, be considered as sufficiently sup- 
plied from the atmosphere. The plants in the conservatory 
should also have it in less quantity, as getting the borders into 



1070 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



{Sept. 



a too damp state at this season would be disadvantageous to 
them. It will now be sufficient, if these plants be watered at 
this time individually, and not generally, as hitherto, and 
then only when the surface round their roots appears to be 
really dry. 

REMOVING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS INTO THE HOUSE. 

Towards the middle of this month, many of the more deli- 
cate plants will require to be taken into the house, and towards 
the end, many that are of a hardier nature. This is a process 
in gardening, like many others, for which no precise rules 
can be laid down that can be of general application. The 
season, whether mild or cold, the situation in reference to the 
exact exposure or the latitude of the place, are all circum- 
stances to be taken into consideration, and must always be 
left to the good sense of the cultivator. It is always better, 
however, to have them taken in too soon than left out too 
long. In the first case, they can be set thin, and abun- 
dantly ventilated; but in the latter case, if left out to be 
nipped by the fi-ost, or the roots cliilled with cold and wet, 
many of them will to a certainty perish, and all will be in- 
jured in a greater or less degree. As a general rule, all 
succulent plants should be taken in first, as being more liable 
to be soon injured by both frost and damp ; next in order 
(we speak generally) the natural order Geraniacce, and all 
similar soft-wooded plants. The hard-wooded plants of New 
Holland, and the Ericas from the Cape, may be the last to 
be removed to their winter abode. When the process of 
taking them in commences, the plants should be individually 
examined ; all that require it, should be supported in a proper 
manner, and all superfluous or ill-placed branches taken off, as 
well as all dead leaves and twigs ; the pots should be thoroughly 
cleaned, washed, if necessary, and the surface of the mould in 
the pots stirred up, if at all hard. When they are all thus 
prepared, they should be then carried into the green-house, 
and as yet set very thinly on the stages, so that they may 
not shade each other, nor impede the free circulation of air. 
For a few days after their removal into the house, they should 
be regularly looked over, and watered once, or if necessary, 



Sept.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1071 

twice a-day, as they will require more water at this period 
than at any other, and a want of it at this time would be of 
the most injurious consequences to them. 

POTTING OFF SEEDLING HEATHS. 

We referred the reader in April to the subject of pottmg 
off seedling heaths, which, if no accident have befallen them, 
will be now in a good state for being put into their second 
state of culture. According to the instructions then laid 
down, the smallest pots should be used ; and being perfectly 
well drained, the mould should be prepared for them, of the 
same kind as recommended for the culture of this family. 
As the young plants will yet have made but few and small 
roots, the mould should be well prepared for them; and, 
independently of being well broken with a spade, should be 
put through a moderately fine sieve, but not so fine as that 
used for preparing the seed-pots. After this potting, sifting 
the mould should never be attempted, for reasons which have 
been already given. 

In taking the young plants out of the seed-pots, great care 
is necessary, that they be not injured ; each plant should be 
put into a separate pot, and when the whole seed-pot is thus 
potted off, the young plants should be carefully watered with 
a very fine rose watering-pot, and placed in the shade for 
a day or two. After which, they should be placed upon 
shelves in the heathery, as near to the glass as possible, 
that they may enjoy plenty of light and air. Here they should 
be shaded for a few days, if the sun be powerful, and gra- 
dually hardened to it, till at last they can bear it without 
flagging, that is, drooping their leaves, which, in the culture 
of this plant, should be carefully avoided. In this state they 
are to stand till spring, and to be regularly watered, and kept 
free of damp, which is their greatest enemy. In houses that 
are not in good repair, a careful examination must be made 
to remove such pots as are under drips from the roof, which, 
if not attended to, would soon destroy the plants. These 
minutiae being attended to, they will require no farther notice 
till they are repotted in the ensuing spring, at the same time 
with the other plants. 



1072 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct 



OCTOBER. 



WATERING AND VENTILATION. 

The instructions which were given last month on the sub- 
ject of ventilation and watering, are applicable to this month 
also, observing that both be administered with less profusion 
as the weather becomes colder. Thus far we may add, thai 
the conservatory should be ventilated to its fullest extent onl> 
for a few hours in the finest days, carefully shutting up both 
sashes and ventilators every afternoon. With respect to green- 
house plants, they should be abundantly supplied with air on 
all favorable occasions ; a deficiency of this element now would 
make most of them lose their leaves, and others damp off, 
sometimes the less hardy by the surface of the pots. They 
will require to be regularly looked over to supply them with 
water ; but although the supply be daily, it should be given 
in a much less quantity than formerly. All dead leaves and 
branches that indicate a disposition to damp, should be re- 
moved ; the surfaces of the pots kept clean, and as little water 
spilt unnecessarily in the house in damp days as possible. 
During this month the plants should be frequently turned 
about to the sun, and those which are delicate should be 
fully exposed, and not crowded under the shade of larger or 
hardier plants. 

REMOVING THE REMAINDER OF THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS 
INTO THE HOUSE. 

By the first or second week in this month, the remainder 
of the gi'een-house plants which were not taken in last month, 
should now be taken in. The observations offered last month 
under this head, should be attended to. In addition, we may 
however add, that when there is an appearance of worms in 
the pots, the plants should be carefully turned out, without 
breaking the balls, and the worms picked out, which will be 



Oct.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1073 



readily clone, as they are for the most part found round the 
outside of the ball. These troublesome creatures can, how- 
ever, be expelled (as stated in the Flower Garden) by water- 
ing the mould in the pots with water into which unslacked 
lime has been put. The caustic property of the lime will 
bring them up to the surface, when they may be picked up 
atnd carried away. 

All plants that are infested with insects, should be com- 
pletely cleaned before they be taken into the house ; but at 
this season, this will not often be the case if the plants have 
been properly managed during the summer, as their rapid and 
free growth will in most cases be a preventive. The scaly 
insects will, even on very healthy plants, particularly cori- 
aceous-leaved ones, be met with, and they should be washed 
off with a sponge, or soft brush, and soap and water. Those 
plants which are sickly or ill-grown should be thrown away, 
if duplicates of them have been propagated ; it is the height of 
folly to keep diseased or mis-shapen plants in any collection 
when they are so easily propagated. When a regular system 
of propagating is annually adopted, and all good cultivators 
follow that practice, a certain part of the stock will of neces- 
sity be to be disposed of, as in the end, no houses of reason- 
able dimensions would otherwise hold them ; and as this is 
the case, all that are worn out, ill grown, or sickly, should 
be selected and destroyed. Almost all green-house plants 
flower and look best when young, and the cultivator who does 
not renew his plants to a considerable extent annually, will 
never gain much credit by his collection. 



ARRANGING PLANTS IN GREEN-HOUSES. 

The instructions which were given on the subject of ar- 
ranging green-house plants, when set out in the early part of 
the summer, are to be applied here also ; but as the whole 
collection is generally contained in one or two houses at most, 
a more general effect may be produced. As the season of the 
tender annuals, which has occupied the stages of the green- 
houses for the last three months, will be now past, they of 

6 X 



1071 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [Oct. 



course are to be thrown away, and tlic whole space dedicated 
to the plants to which the house may be said to belong. 

In arranging plants in houses, the first object in view with 
the cultivator is, and justly ought to be, assigning to each 
plant, or species of plants, situations or stations in it suitable 
to their respective natures, as some prefer the sun and some 
the shade. By far the greater part, however, prefer the 
former, and in any kind of arrangement they should occupy 
situations as much exposed to its influence as possible. Some 
families may be termed unsociable, that is, refusing to prosper 
when mixed with others different from themselves in some 
particulars, although often natives of the same latitude. Such 
has long been known to be the case with that numerous and 
delightful family Ericciy or heaths; and hence probably the 
idea first originated of appropriating separate houses for them. 
Although it must be admitted that such an arrangement is to 
be preferred, it is not always that circumstances will admit of 
it ; and in order that such a delightful genus of plants should 
not be discarded from collections on a small scale, we would 
recommend the idea of grouping them by themselves, either at 
one end of the green-house, if the number cultivated be con- 
siderable enough, or if only few in number, that they occupy 
a part of the front trellis or shelves nearest the glass, and 
always in the coldest end of the house. Almost all plants 
with small heath-like leaves succeed best when fully exposed 
to the sun and light ; and as a rule, from which tliere can be 
few exceptions, all youug plants, propagated during summer, 
should also be accommodated upon the shelves or trellises, 
either towards the front or ends of the house, so that they may 
be not only exposed to the light, but also under the more 
immediate eye of the cultivator. 

That numerous division of plants, denominated succulent, 
and which contains many genera of green-house plants, can 
dispense with the genial rays of sun-shine for a greater length 
of time, without much inconvenience, than many others, if we 
except that interesting, although too generally neglected, di- 
vision of plants, denominated Ferns ; these may occupy back 
shelves ; the former where there is no damp or likelihood of 



Oct.] GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1075 

having water spilt upon them ; the latter where they may be 
equally shaded, but in a more humid place. Thick leathery- 
leaved plants, such as oranges, and many others, will succeed 
in a tolerable degree of shade ; and if large, may occupy the 
back parts of the green-house, where plants of more delicate 
constitutions would not prosper so well. Delicate-leaved 
plants in general like much light and sunshine, and therefore 
should occupy situations more in front ; and the young stock 
of the present year's propagation should also occupy light and 
airy situations on shelves near the glass, and where they may 
be more readily got at, for the purpose of watering them, or 
performing any other necessary operations. 

Green-house bulbous plants are peculiarly interesting, al- 
though by no means so universally cultivated in private col- 
lections as they merit. Those who have visited Mr. Colvil's 
splendid collection of these plants, can only form an idea of 
the beauty of them ; and if it were generally known that their 
culture is so simple, few, we believe, would hesitate to add 
them to their collections. As to their situation in the green- 
house, it is only while in flower that they intrude themselves 
u})on us, as requiring any room or even much attention ; and 
then they amply repay us for any care or attention that they 
may for a time require, by the splendor and diversification 
of their rich and elegant bloom. The accompanying figure of 
the Amarijllis psittacina was drawn from a plant in flower in 
that splendid collection at a time when upwards of five hundred 
others were in bloom. During a part of the year, they, 
like most other bulbs, become dormant ; and while in that 
state they may be taken out of the pots altogether, and the 
mould shaken from their roots and kept in boxes well ven- 
tilated, in a temperature rather above that marked temperate 
on Fahrenheit's scale. In this state they may remain until 
they be showing flower, when, as they appear in that state, 
they should be potted, and introduced into the green-house ; 
and when done flowering, and the leaves fully formed, and 
beginning to decay, they may then be again removed. 



107G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Oct 



COLD PIT DEPARTMENT. 

Amongst nurserymen, ;uul in extensive botanical gardens, 
tliese struct lucs are very connnon, and are found to be very 
useful appendages for wintering many half-hardy and often 
many green-house plants. These should now be refreshed 
with fresh coal-ashes, gravel, or other similar material, upon 
their bottoms or floors, upon which the plants are to be 
placed. A very considerable portion of the Cape heaths, and 
not a few of the New-Holland plants may be placed in them, 
which, with a little care in covering up, and regular manage- 
ment, will survive the winter better than plants in an ill-kept 
green-house. 

And in such pits may with propriety be kept all or most of 
the delicate varieties of China roses, of which the yellow China, 
as our figure represents, is amongst the most interesting ; and 
the sweet-scented China, which is too delicate to prosper well 
in most situations, could be brought to the greatest perfection 
if kept in pits of this kind during the winter months. 

To those whose circumstances do not admit of having green- 
houses, commodious accommodation could be easily and at 
iittle expense obtained by the use of pits, which, if kept 
water-tight, and the frost excluded, which can always be done 
oy covering sufficiently, tolerable collections of exotic plants 
might then be expected to be met with, not only in our su- 
b'urban gardens, but in the gardens of every private individual 
throughout the kingdom, whose taste or fancy might lead him 
to their cultivation. 



Nov.] 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1077 



NOVEMBER. 



VENTILATION AND WATERING. 

Abundance of fresh air should be daily admitted to the 
plants in the green-house when the weather is not too frosty 
and cold, for much of the success of getting them well through 
the approaching winter depends upon a regular attention to 
this hint. The conservatory also demands particular attention, 
as far as regards this process, both to keep the plants in a 
healthy growing state, and to preserve them from damping. 
Should damp at any time gain a-head in either department, a 
slight fire may be made on a fine day ; and when the flues 
begin to become warm, the ventilators, and even part of the 
feshes, should be opened, to permit the steam which is gene- 
rated to pass freely oflf. 

Plants in pots will require to be daily examined, that none 
become too dry ; however, the quantity of water given must 
be limited, as it is now better that the plants appear to be 
dry than otherwise. In watering, as little should be spilt on 
the leaves or other parts of the plants, and also on the floor 
of the house, as possible, as that is certain to produce damps, 
which at this early part of the winter are very detrimental to them, 
much more so than towards the spring. The watering should 
be always henceforth performed as early in the day as possible, 
that the sun may dry up the superfluous moisture before the 
house be shut up for the night. 

TEMPERATURE. 

It is seldom that fire-heat is required in either of these de- 
partments till towards the middle of the month ; however, the 
cultivator must be on his guard now every night, for there is 
little depcndance to be placed on the weather after this time. 
A slight degree of frost now before the plants have done 
growing, will do more mischief than a greater degree of it at 
a more advanced period. 



1078 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Nov. 



POTTING BULBS FOR FORCING. 

Either the latter end of last month, or the beginning ol 
this, is a good time to pot bulbous roots for forcing, to deco- 
rate the drawing-room, the green-house, or the conservatory, 
early in spring, before other plants come into flower. The 
kinds most generally in use for this purpose, are hyacinths, 
jonquils, Persian Iris, narcissus, tulips, and crocuses ; and, 
in addition to these, when the taste of the cultivator leads him 
that way, may be added most of the bulbs indigenous to the 
Cape, such as amaryllis, oxalis, isia, gladiolus, &c. Either 
of these may now be potted, in pots of sizes differing according 
to the size of the bulbs ; although these plants, particularly 
the larger growing kinds, will produce their flowers in much 
greater perfection when potted singly, yet it is very usual to 
plant more than one, nay often many roots into one pot, par- 
ticularly of the smaller-sized kinds. The mould most proper 
for them is like that recommended for all other bulbs, light 
and rich ; indeed, it cannot be said to partake too much of 
either of these properties. Still it must be borne in mind, 
that unprepared dung, that is, such as has not undergone 
complete decomposition, should never be used. A compound 
of fresh maiden yellow loam, pure sand, and completely rotten 
dung, at least twelve or eighteen months old, is to be pre- 
ferred, and a smaller portion of vegetable mould of decayed 
trees or leaves may be advantageously added. The proportions 
of each must be regulated by the kinds of bulbs and by the 
texture of the loam, whether strong or friable ; if strong, a 
greater proportion of each of the other parts must be added, 
particularly that of sand, but if friable and light, a less quan- 
tity of either will suffice, particularly of sand, which in all 
cases is added to reduce stronger soils to a proper texture. In 
planting the bulbs, they should not be put in too deep, but a 
part of their upper surface or crown should be left uncovered. 
When the whole are planted, they should be buried under 
some rotten tan, saw-dust, or dry light mould, in a dry situ- 
ation. We allude here to the hardier kinds, such as are in 
most common cultivation. In this situation they are to remain 
until taken up to be placed in the green-house or forcing- pit. 



Nov.] GREEN-HOUSL AND CONSERVATORY. 1079 



which latter situation is the most proper, although less com- 
mon. Those denominated Cape bulbs are, however, not 
treated in this manner, but there can be no doubt that, to a 
certain extent, a similar treatment would be beneficial ; for, 
being excluded from the action of air, a disposition is natu- 
rally brought on to, push out roots ; and these being once pro- 
duced in abundance, there can be little doubt that the bloom 
will be proportionably stronger. At present, cultivators con- 
tent themselves by merely placing them upon shelves or other 
convenient parts of the green-house, and some few, with 
greater propriety, place them in cold pits, where they are de- 
fended both from too much wet and fi'ost ; here they remain 
until coming into flower, when the pots are cleaned and the 
plants carried into the green-house or conservatory. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE AND 
CONSERVATORY. 

All the dangers of winter have now to be guarded against, 
such as excess of dampness, coldness, and stagnation of air ; 
all of which require a daily examination. Dampness is to be 
expelled or prevented by a proper attention to the tempera- 
ture and ventilation of the house. In watering now, care 
should be taken not to spill any on the leaves or floor of the 
house, particularly in damp or rainy weather ; and also that 
no plant be too much supplied with it, particularly if in a 
sickly or weak state. Watering over head should only be 
resorted to upon extraordinary occasions, in the country, where 
the air is pure, but in and round large cities, and in confined 
atmospheres, it cannot be well dispensed with. Therefore, 
when that process is applied, a clear dry day should be chosen, 
and ventilation freely attended to ; should this not dry up the 
superabundant moisture completely, then the assistance of the 
furnace and flues must be called in to give their aid. All 
green-house plants should be regularly gone over, and all 
dead leaves picked off*; the surface of the mould in the pots 
cleaned or stirred up. Such plants as require it should be 
supported in a neat and natural manner, and often turned 
round, so that all their sides raav derive an equal benefit from 



1080 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



[Nov. 



the sun. This last simple process is too httle attended to ; 
hence the many deformed and mis-shapen plants for which 
most green-houses are so very conspicuous. Cultivators often, 
for want of attending to this, allow many plants to become 
one-sided, as it is practically termed, that is, having one side 
only fit to be seen, and the other, which has been shaded for 
some months, unfit for being exposed to sight. This once 
being the case, they go on increasing in deformity, until at last 
they become either a disgrace to any ordinary collection, or die 
altogether. This would never be the case if attention were 
paid to this point, occasionally turning them round, allowing 
every side of the plant to enjoy a share of sun-shine, par- 
ticularly during the dark months of winter. The plants in the 
conservatory should be also regularly attended to, all dead 
leaves should be picked off, and all decaying parts of flowers. 
The surface of the borders should be frequently stirred up, 
and attention paid to tying up and supporting such plants as 
require it. The climbing or creeping plants should be some- 
what pruned in, that is, all straggling and ill-placed shoots 
either removed or shortened, both that the shade which they 
create may not injure those under them, as well as to make 
room for a supply of young wood for the flowers of next 
season. All annual or temporary plants, which may have been 
introduced for their flowers during summer, should now be 
taken out, that the house may not be crowded with plants not 
its own, and that room may be made for such as belong ex- 
clusively to that department. 



Dec] GREEN-HOUSE AWD CONSERVATORY 



1081 



DECEMBER. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE AND 
CONSERVATORY. 

This is the most gloomy month in the year. All the vege- 
table part of Nature is, as it were, in a state of rest or sleep. 
Vegetables, if it may be so expressed, require a season of rest 
to fit them for their various and important duties, and during 
this season of inactivity, the roots are acquiring fresh strength, 
that they may, when excited by proper stimuli, perform their 
various functions in perfection and with vigour. Some plants 
may, however, be kept in a gi'owing state during the whole of 
their lives ; but this is only the case with such as are of veiy 
limited duration, such as annuals, some biennials, and some 
perennials : the two latter when artificially excited or stimu- 
lated. Some plants naturally require a long secession from 
the offices of life, and remain dormant many months, some 
more than one year ; and circumstances sometimes occur of 
the roots of plants, when disturbed, continuing inactive for 
many years. The seeds of many plants, also, retain their ve- 
getative properties although buried in the earth for half a 
century. 

In regard to the plants which occupy the green-house and 
conservatory, most of them at this season will be almost in- 
active, they therefore require little stimulus, particularly that 
of heat and water ; the less of either of them that is applied, 
during this month, the better we have always found the plants 
to push forth in the spring. Some few, indeed, are even during 
this montli naturally in flower, but these can only be con- 
sidered as not sufficiently weaned from their native habits ; 
and some others will produce their flowers now that have from 
«ome cause, either intentionally or accidentally, met with a check, 
or been altered in their economy during the preceding summer 
or autumn. It may not be unworthy of notice here, as we 
believe the circumstance is not generally known, at least we 
have never heard it advanced, nor have we met with any ac- 

6 Y 



1082 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. [DcC, 

count of it in any horticultural work that has come under our 
observation ; viz. that several rare plants that do not perfect 
their seeds with us from the flowers produced in summer, do 
so from flowers produced during the winter. It is not here 
the place, probably, to endeavour to account philosophically 
for such a cause, which would require more room in the elu- 
cidation than we can spare, in a work professedly plain and 
practical, but that such is the fact we have more than once 
had an opportunity of witnessing. This is the case with such 
plants in particular as abound with that honey-like matter, 
poetically called nectar, from its being the fancied drink of 
the gods. A too abundant supply of this liquid, which is sup- 
posed the primitive food of seeds, may probably be the cause 
of the sterility of those plants, which abound with it during 
summer, when it is naturally more abundant in them. During 
autumn and winter it is in much less quantity in flawers, and 
in this manner may be just sufficient, and no more, 'for that im- 
portant ofhce for which Nature has designed it. 

The green-house and conservatory will now be the favorite 
lounge of the proprietor who indulges in the beauties of Flora, 
they should therefore be kept in the greatest possible order 
and neatness. Should insects appear upon the stems or leaves 
of the plants, they should be suppressed by some of the nu- 
merous rules laid down in various parts of this work, or by 
means probably more economical, convenient, and complete, 
which the cultivator may either devise or adopt. 



1083 



AN ENUMERATION 

OF THE PRINCIPAL GENERA OF 

GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS; 

WITH THE SOIL EACH GENUS THRIVES IN. 

INCLUDING THE MODE OF PROPAGATION, WHETHER FROM 
SEEDS, ROOTS, CUTTINGS, &C. &C. 



Previously to entering upon the enumeration of the genera, 
the following observations may not be deemed irrelevant : — 

Peat, loam, and sand, are the three simples of nature 
which are made use of by cultivators, and the composts which 
are formed of them in different proportions may be said to 
suit all plants ; those that are parasitic, of course, being ex- 
cepted. To these are added occassionally vegetable mould of 
decayed tree leaves, and in some cases dung, which has long 
undergone the process of fermentation, and become perfectly 
decomposed. Lime-rubbish, pounded brick-bats, and gravel, 
are used in the cultivation of some succulent plants, which re- 
quire for the most part little nourishment from the soil, and 
chiefly exist on the humidity of the atmosphere. 

Peati properly so called, is decomposed vegetable matter, 
composed of, in some cases, entirely of decayed Sjj^agnwn, 
and other mosses ; in others, of decayed wood, mixed with 
herbaceous remains, and most generally of an heterogeneous 
accumulation of many vegetables. This sort of peat is not so 
much used, nor is it so much prized by cultivators, although 
for some plants it is very useful. 

Sandy peat, in its natural state, is most esteemed, and is to 
be found on the surface of most heaths, and is composed of 
decayed vegetable matter, of a black colour, and pure white 
shining sand, in considerable abundance. 

Sandy peat may be formed by adding pure white sand to the 
peat of entire vegetable remains, which is entirely without 



1084 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



sand naturally; and as a substitute, vegetable-mould of de- 
cayed tree-leaves and sand may be used. 

Bog-mould is generally confounded with the above kinds 
of peat, but is more correctly used when we express any thing 
relating to peat of vegetable remains, or such as is used for 
fuel ; but even in such mould many plants flourish. 

Loam is of various kinds, differing in colour, texture, &c. ; 
but that which is used by cultivators simply is of two sorts, 
namely, strong loam and light loam. The former is less used 
than the latter, and nearly approaches to clay, being of a 
yellow colour, and feeling greasy to the touch, but breaking 
freely into pieces when half dried. Such loam as becomes 
hard when dried, is not so useful to the cultivator, but it may 
be j)artially corrected by the addition of sharp sand. 

Light loam is generally to be preferred, and Uiat which is 
obtained fi om the surface of sheep walks or downs, which 
have never been under cultivation, is the best, and is deno- 
minated virgin-loam. Its colour is in general yellow or ha2^1- 
colored, although sometimes black. Such loam contains only 
a small portion of sand, which may be detected by washing 
and examining the sediment. It generally contains a consider- 
able portion of fibrous matter, and the greater quantity tliat it 
does contain, the better. It is seldom good for immediate use, if 
taken deeper than six or ten inches below the surface, although 
some instances occur when it has been found good at a greater 
depth. It, however, should be dug up, and exposed to tliQ 
action of the atmosphere some time previously to its being 
used. 

In the following short directions for the propagation of 
green-house and conservatory plants, notice is repeatedly 
taken of the following composts. These are in general com- 
pounded in nearly the following proportions 

Sandy Loam. — Three-parts loam to one of sand. 

Sandy Peat. — Often found naturally upon the surface of 
heaths, and contains a large portion of pure white shining 
sand. When artificially compounded, three-parts of peat to 
one of pure sand. 

Rich Sandy Loam. — One-third or fourth very rotten dung 
added to sandy loam. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1085 



Ri€H Sandy Soil. — Same as above. 

Sandy Loam and Peat. — Half sandy loam and half peat. 

Loam and Peat. — Half light loam and half peat. 

Peat and Loam.— Same as above. When loam precedes 
tlie word peat it is understood that the genus will prosper in 
a gi'eater proportion of it, and vice versa. 

Loam and Peat and Rotten Wood. — Half loam, half 
peat, and a small portion of rotten chips of wood added. 

Loam and Rotten Dung. — Three parts loam, and one of 
rotten dung. 

Rich Loamy Soil. — Either pure rich maiden loam, or loam 
enriched with dung, vegetable-mould, &c. 

Loam and Lime-Rubbish. — Maiden loam and lime-rubbish 
mixed. 

Very rich Light Mould. — Chiefly decayed dung and 
vegetable-mould. 

In regard to propagating by cuttings, fine white sand is 
generally used, into which the cutting is inserted; below 
which, after the pot is sufficiently drained, that sort of soil is 
placed in which the genus is found to thrive. There are few 
plants that are capable of reproduction by this means, that 
will root freely in sand ; and many of the freely-growing sorts 
will strike in the mould recommended for the genus. 

The shallower that all cuttings are put in the pots, the 
sooner and better they will root. The sand must never be 
allowed to become too dry, for in such a case much injury 
might be done before the cultivator might observe it. Neither 
should they be kept too moist, for fear of damp, which shouUl 
be guarded against by frequent observation, and by once or 
twice a-day wiping the glasses with which they are covered. 
The sooner that cuttings are potted off, after they are rooted, 
the better ; and if carefully shaded, and not put into too large 
pots, the better they will thrive. The sand should be com- 
pletely removed from the roots of the cuttings previously to 
potting off, for it is very injurious to most plants, particularly 
those that are of delicate growth. This circumstance does not 
appear to be generally known, at least if it be, it is not always 
acted upon, and to this may be attributed many of the failures 
which usually attend the potting off of cuttings. 



1086 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Plants originated from cuttings taken from plants in a 
flowering state, have an advantage over seedling-plants, as 
they come into bloom much sooner, and often while quite 
small; thus geraniums, and many other plants, propagated 
from the terminal shoots that would produce flowers, are found 
to root and come into bloom when only a few inches high, 
and often in pots of not more than three inches diameter. 
Seedling-plants, although they in general grow much more 
luxuriantly, seldom produce their flowers till they have attained 
nearly their full size. Plants originated by laying, also bloom 
soon, but can seldom be trained, excepting in the case of 
creeping or climbing-plants, to any thing like a handsome 
head. But laying is the only means by which some plants can 
be propagated with flicility, and hence it becomes necessary. 

Plants originated by budding, grafting, or inarching, come 
into bloom soon after the operation is completed ; but unless 
the operation be performed with judgment, the part of union 
long remains a blemish. In recrard to buddincr or inarchin^r 
those species which are difficult to be otherwise propagated, 
it should be borne in mind, that almost all plants capable of 
being increased by this means, will take upon one or other of 
its own family that may either be more plentiful or less va- 
luable ; and some plants will take upon others not directly 
belonging to their own genus, but nearly related to it in natural 
affinity. 

The modes of propagation pointed out to us by Nature, are 
seven : first, universally by seeds ; secondly, partially by off"- 
sets, slips, germes, runners, suckers, and bulbs, and by these 
means all plants are naturally multiplied. But so many cir- 
cumstances combine, in the culture of many species, that ren- 
ders it impossible for the best cultivators to increase their 
stock by these means. Artificial methods have, therefore, : 
been invented, and these may be enumerated under five heads, 
namely, cuttings, budding, grafting, of which there are many 
varieties, (see Fndt Garden,) inarching, and laying. By 
some of these means, almost all plants cultivated in our gar- 
dens may be increased or perpetuated. 

In propagating by natural means, we may observe, that, as 
seeds are the first, and by far the most general of all the na- 



GREEN-HOUSE AT^D CONSERVATORY. 



1087 



tural modes of propagation, great care should be taken by 
the cultivator to save such as ripen in his own collection. 
When the object is to perpetuate the same species or variety 
pure and unadulterated, which is often the case, particularly with 
the florist, every precaution should be taken to prevent them 
being impregnated with the fertilizing dust of any other spe- 
cies to which it may be allied ; but when the object is to in- 
crease the number of varieties, a considerable degree of judg- 
ment is required on the part of the cultivator; first, that 
choice be made of two flowers, each partaking of certain pro- 
perties, which, if combined in one, would make a hybrid, 
possessing the wished-for merits. In such cases, nothing 
should be left to chance : the male parts of the one may be 
carefully cut out with a pair of very sharp-pointed scissars just 
before the dust is ripe, and the dust of the other plant brought 
into close contact with the female part of the flower operated 
on. A careful observation is necessary to perform this im- 
portant office at that exact period when the flowers of both 
plants are in a proper state ; if this be not attended to, there 
is little chance of success. Many splendid hybrid bulbs have 
been thus produced by Messrs. Sweet, Colvil, and others, 
one of which, Amaryllis Psittacina var., we have adopted for" 
our plate, and some beautiful Passijloras, by Mr. Milne. 
Fruits by Mr. Knight ; and florist's flowers by almost every 
one eminent in that fancy 

Offsets, may be termed young radical bulbs, which, when 
separated from the parent-roots produce plants exactly similar 
to them, and never sport into varieties or monstrosities like 
the progeny of seeds, except from accidental causes. 

Slips, are produced upon almost all herbaceous plants, and 
some shrubs, and issue from the plants near the surface of the 
ground, as in the case of Auricula, and similar plants. The 
proper period of their growth, when they are fit to be taken 
off", is when the part of the slip next the ground attains a 
somewhat firm texture, or what is technically called ripe. The 
operation of propagating by this means, consists simply of 
separating the slips from the parent-plant, by pulling or twist- 
ing them off", which is no difficult mutter ; and as they gene- 
rally bring off' a heel or piece of the old wood or stem of the 
plant with them, to which sometimes are appended roots, or 



1088 



TffE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



the embryo of them, they are then fit to pot off, or plant 
under a hand-glass, when they require to be shaded for a few 
days, and watered, and when sufficiently rooted planted out, 
where they are to remain. 

GermeSy or bulbs, are produced by the side of the parent 
bulbs, altliough sometimes above them, and are denominated 
radical or root-germes, to distinguish them from such as are 
produced on the stems of some plants, such as some species 
of Allium, Lillunn, &c. ; and such are denominated cauline, 
or stem-germes, or bulbs. Germes, or bulbs, whether radical 
or cauline, should be immediately planted after being removed 
from the parent-plant, as they are generally small, and very 
apt to be dried up, and soon lose their living principle if left 
long exposed to the air. 

Runners occur in many hardy plants, but not very frequently 
with those which are inhabitants of our green-houses or con- 
servatories. They are young plants, which proceed from long 
cord or thread-like appendages, which issue from many her- 
baceous plants, and generally strike root wherever they touch 
a favorable surface. When their roots are sufficiently formed, 
they may be taken entirely from the parent-plant, and treated 
as other young plants. 

Suckers are of two kinds, that is, proceeding from the roots 
and also from the stem. The former have been defined to be 
merely runners under ground ; some extending to a consider- 
able distance from the original, and others rising quite close 
to it. As these in general are rooted under ground, all that is 
required is to take them up with a portion of root attached to 
them, and dispose of them as if perfectly-formed plants. The 
latter sort seldom have any roots attached to them while they 
remain on the parent, as is exemplified in the case of the pine- 
apple, the majority of succulent plants, &c. In propagating 
by them, it is necessary to remove them when they become 
partially hard at the bottom, after which, they should be laid 
by to dry for a few days, and afterwards potted, when they 
will, if kept moderately dry, make roots in a short time. 

In regard to the various methods of propagation, which may 
be denominated artificial, we have, in their respective places 
throughout this work, had occasion to notice them, particu- 
larly in the Fruit Garden {ivhich see). 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1089 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Acacia Loam and peat S buttings and seeds, some species, however, from 

I cuttings of the roots. 

Acana. Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Achillea Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Achyranthes . . . Peat and loam Cuttings, when the wood is young. 

Acrostichum .. 5 ^oam and peat, or ) 

I rotten wood 5 

Actinocarpus . . Loam and peat Seeds, cultivated by being immersed in water. 

Adenandria . . . sandy loam or peat ... 5 ^""i"?^ of the tips of the young wood, in fine 

( sand, and cold frame. 

Adiantxmi (Rotten \\ood, or | Dividing the root, or by seed, like Acrostichu 

I sandy loam & peat. 5 ^ j i 

Agapanthus . . . Loam and rotten dung . Dividing the roots, and sometimes from seeds. 

Agathosma. . . .Sandy peat Cuttings of the young wood. 

Agave. . . . . . Rich loamy soil Suckers from the roots. 

Ageratum Light rich soil Cuttings root freely. 

Aitonia Sandy loam and peat.. Cuttings of the young wood. 

Aizoon Loam and lime rubbish Cuttings root freely. 

Albuca Rich light loam ..By suckers from the old bulb. 

AUautodia Loam and peat Dividing the root, or by seed. 

Aloe Light mould & lime rub. Suckers, which freely rise from the roots or stem. 

Alonsoa Light rich soil Readily by cuttings and seeds. 

Aloysia Light rich soil Cuttings of the young wood. 

Alstraemeria. ..Very rich light mould.. 5^^^^' ^ soon as rip 

( and by dividing the roots. 

Altemanthera . Light rich ^il Readily increased by cuttings. 

Amaryllis Rich loam By offsets from the bulbs. 

Amelias Loam and peat Readily increased by cuttings. 

Anabasis. . . .Light loam Cuttings of the young wood strike pretty freely. 

Anacampseros . Sandy soil By cuttings, or by leaves of the plant. 

Anagallis Light sandy soil i 1^^^°^ '^^^ '•"^^^^>' ^"""^^^ 

( spring and summer months. 

Anagyris Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Andersonia....Peat and loam < Cuttings of the young wood strike with care in 

( March and April. 

Andryala. Peat and loam Cuttings root readily. 

Anigozanthus. . Peat and loam By dividing at the root. 

Anthericum, . .Sandy loam and peat . .Generally from seed, or by cuttings. 

Anthocercis . Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Antholyza . , . .Sandy loam By seeds and offsets. 

AnthospermumLoam and peat Cuttings strike freely. 

/■Many of the species produce perfect seeds, 
Anthyllis Loam and peat 1 which grow, and the others are propagated 

(. by cuttings. 
Antirrhinum . . Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Aotus. Peat and loam Cuttings of the young shoots strike pretty freely, 

7 A 



1090 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

r By offsets from the bulbs, or by seeds; plant 

, 1 ^ ) while frrowing should be placed in a pond 

Aponogeton ....Loam and peat < . , ^ ^ 

^ ° 1 or cistern of water, and should be kept dry 

^ all winter. 

/-By seeds, when thoy can be imported; some- 

Araucaria Peat and loam ) times by cuttings ; but the latter method sel- 

( dom produces good plants. 

Arbutus Rich sandy loam 5 inarching, or the common Ar- 

( butus ; sometimes by seeds and layers. 

Arctopus Loam and peat By seeds. 

Arctotheca Loam and peat By cuttii'.gs freely. 

^ The herbaceous species are incrcai;ed by divid- 

Arctotis Peat and loam ) ing them at the root; the shrubby sorts by 

( cuttings. 

Ardisia Loam and peat ) """"'^^ °^ ^'^^^ ^'^e" ^ 

I are obtained, by that process. 

Arduina Peat and loam Cuttings strike root, but not readily, 

Areuaria Peat and loam By seeds, and also by cuttings of the plant. 

Arethusa. Rich loam and peat. . . .By seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe. 

Aristea Peat and loam (Readily propagated by dividing them at th< 

( root, as well as by seeds. 

Aristolochia . ..Loam and peat Easily propagated by cuttings, 

Artemisia Loam and peat Easily propagated by cuttings. 

Arthropodium.. Sandy loam and peat . . Multiplied by seed, or by dividing at the root 
Asclepias .... Sandy peat and loam. , By seeds aud cuttings. 

Ascyrum Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Aspalathus. . . . Loam and peat By seed, and by cuttings of the young wood. 

Asparagus .... Loam and peat Cuttings will root best in a cold frame. 

Aspidium Peat and veget. mould. .By seeds, and by dividing at the roots. 

Asplenium .... Peat and veget, mould. . By seeds, and by dividing at the roots. 
Aster Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Astroloma . . .Sandy loam and peat . . Cuttings of the yoxmg wood strike pretty freely. 

Athanasia Peat aud loam By cuttings. 

Atraphaxis. . . . Loam aud peat By cuttings, 

Atriplex Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Atropa Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Aulax Sandy loam ) increased readily but by seeds which are 

< imported. 

Azalia Sandy peat (Cuttings of the young wood strike pretty well 

( in a bottom-heat 

Babiana Sandy loam and peat. . Rapidly by offsets from the roots, or by seeds. 

Baccharis Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike freelv. 

Bajckia Peat and loam Freely by cuttings. 

Balsamita Peat aud loam By cuttings. 

Banksia . , Peat and loam 3 cuttings, but the best plants are from seeda 

( imported from New-Holland. 
Bartholina . . . .Sandy loam and peat . . Requires little water while in an inactive state. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1091 



Soil, Mode of Prop.\gation. 

Bauera Peat and loam Cuttings of the half-ripened vood strike freely. 

Beaufortia . . Peat and loam By cuttings of the half-ripened wood. 

Bejaria Sandy peat By cuttings of the young wood. 

Berckheya . . . .Peat and loam Readily increased by cuttings. 

C Cuttings of the young wood strike in heat ; the 

Bignonia Peat and loam < old wood strike by layers : the former is the 

(. best method. 

Billardiera .... Peat and loam . . t By seeds, and also by cuttings. 

Blaeria Sandy peat By cuttings of the young wood. 

Blandfordia. . .Sandy loam and peat . .By seeds or suckers from the roots. 

Blechnimi Peat and veget. mould .. By seed , and dividing the roots. 

Bletia Loam and peat By di\Tiding at the roots. 

Boehmeria . . . .Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Borbonia Peat and loam (Cuttings of the young wood stnke readily, if 

( carefully shaded. 
Boronia ..... Sandy peat By cuttings. 

Bosea Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood strike pretty freely. 

Bossiaea Sandy peat Cuttings of the half-ripened wood strike freely. 

Bouvardia Peat and loam Readily by cuttings, and also by pieces of the roots. 

Brabejum Sandy loam and peat . .By ripened cuttings of the wood. 

Brachylaena. . .Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood strike fVeely. 

Brachysema. . .Sandy peat By layers, and sometimes by cuttings. 

Bnmia Peat and loam Freely by cuttings. 

Brunsvigia .... Rich light loam By offsets from the bulbs. 

Bryonia ... , . . Sandy loam Cuttings of the young wood strike root readily. 

Bubon Peat and loam 5 buttings, taken off at a joint where the shoot is 

( a little hard, strike freely. 

Buddlea Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Bupthalmum . . Peat and loam Readily by cuttings. 

Bupleurum .... Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Bursaria Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

Bm-tonia Sandy loam and peat . . 5 ^^^^^ ''''^^ ^'^^^ 

( is altogether a delicate genus. 

Bystropogon . Peat and loam Readily by cuttings. 

Cacalia Poor sandy soil By cuttings, which should be kept dry til! rooted. 

Cactus Poor sandy soil By cuttings, which should be kept dry till rooted. 

Caesia Loam and peat By seeds, or dividing at the roots. 

Calceolaria. . . .Loam and peat By seeds and by cuttings. 

Calendula . . . .Peat and loam Readily by cuttings. 

Caleya Sandy loam and peat . . By seeds, and by dividing the roots. 

Calla Peat and loam By of&ets of the roots. 

Callicoma Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

CalUstaxjhys ...Loam and peat i^'"^"' ^^^^'> ''^^^^ "P^^' ^"'^ ''^'^ ^'^"^ 

( cuttings. 

Callistemou . , . Peat and loam Readily by seeds. 

Calodendrum, , Loam and psat By cuttings of the ripened wood. 

Calostemma... Peat and loam ( By seeds which are produced on large plants, 

1 and also bv offset bulbs. 



1092 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Calothamnus . .Peat and loam. ... . . By cuttings, which root freely if kept from damp. 

Calytrix Sandy loam and peat . .By cuttings, but not very readily. 

Camellia. Sandy loam and peat . J '^"^^'^ """'"SS and by grafung and inarch- 

( iug on stocks of their own species. 

Camphorosma . Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Campylia . . . .Sandy peat and loam . . By cuttings taken off at a joint. 

Canarina Light sandy loam By dividing the roots, or by cuttings of the stem. 

Capraria Loam and peat ..... .By cuttings. 

Carthamus . . . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Cassia Peat and loam By seeds or cuttings. 

Cassine Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

Cassuarina.. .Peat and loam ,By cuttings, and often by imported seeds. 

Ceanothus . . . .Sandy loam and peat . . By cuttings. 

Celastrus Peat and loam , . .By cuttings. 

Centaurea . . . .Peat and loam Cuttings strike freely. 

Cestrum Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Cheilanthus. . .Peat and veget. mould. . By seeds, and by dividing the roots. 

Chciranthus . . . Peat and loam Cuttings strike readily. 

Chenolea Peat and loam By cuttings. 

C By layers in spring ; by cuttings of the young 

Chimonanthus. Peat and loam -s wood in summer; but in greater quantity 

C from seeds imported. 

Chironia Sandy peat Cuttings root freely. 

Chorizema . . .Peat and light loam . . .By cuttings, but much better from seeds, 

Chrj san. ) p^^^ ^ j^^^ j Cuttings root freely, and some species by ^ivicUnj 

hemum. ) ^ the roots. 

ChrAsocoma. . .Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Cineraria Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Cissus Peat and loam Strike by cuttings in bottom-heat 

/• Most of the specieji propagate freely by aittingi, 

Cistus Peat and loam ^ and all of them from seeds, which ripen 

( abundantly. 

Citrus Rich soil By seeds, cuttings, inarching, and grafting. 

Clerodendrum . Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Clethera Loam and peat By cuttings, and also by seeds, which ripen oflen. 

Clitfortia. Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Cluytia Peat and loam Cuttings strike freely. 

Coba'a Rich soil Generally by seeds, and sometimes by cuttings. 

Commelina . . .Peat and loam. By seeds, and dividing the roots. 

C Some of the species by cuttings of the roots, 
Convoh-ulus . . . Loam aud peat \ others by seeds, and several by cuttings of the 

V branches. 

Coris Peat and loam ^Should be pei-petuated by seeds, but is often 

< propagated by cuttings. 

Coronilla Loam and peat By cuttings freely. 

/"Cuttings of the ripened wood strike pretty freely, 
) particularly C. alba aud Veridijlora, and are 
" ' j used as stocks, on which to inarch or graft the 
C other rarer sorts. 



Corroea Peat and loam , 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1093 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

rBj cuttings, which should be partially dried be- 

Crassula Sandy soil ) fore planting, as, being succulent, are apt 

{ to damp off. 

Crotalaria. .Peat and loam ( By seeds, which often ripen, and also by cuttings 

( of the young wood. 

Crowea Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Cniciauella . ..Loam and peat. Cuttings root freely. 

CryptospermumLoam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Cuuouia Loam aud peat Ripened cuttings strike freely. 

Cupressus Peat and loam 5 ^"^Vorted seeds are to be preferred, but some of 

( the species strike by cuttings. 

Curtisia Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

Cussonia Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Cyauella Peat aud loam By offsets, aud also by seeds. 

^ This genus may be said to be propagated by 
Cyclamen Peat and loam < seeds only, which ripen under good manage- 

C ment. 

Cyclopia Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood strike pretty freely. 

Cynanchum. . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

/ The green-house species is not readily propa- 
Cyrilla Sandy loam and peat . . } gated by cuttings. When seeds can be ob- 

C tained, they should be carefully sown. 

rlf care be taken to assist the impregnation of 

CjrtantiiU3....Light rich mould ) ^^^'^'^ ^^^^ abundantiy pro- 

j duced. They may be propagated also by off- 
V. sets from the bulbs. 

Cytissus Peat and loam By seeds and cuttings. 

Dias Peat and loam 5 cuttings of the roots in a. moderate tempera- 

( ture, and also by seeds. 
Dampiera Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood strike freely, 

( By cuttings of the young wood, but with greater 
Daphne Loamy rich soil < certainty from the ripened shoots, taken oft 

C at a joint, in a moderate heat. 
Daviesia Sandy loam and peat . . ^Cuttings about half ripe strike pretty freely. 

( D. latifoUa is not easily propagated. 

Dendrobium . . . Sandy peat By dividing the roots. 

Dianella Sandy loam and peat . .Readily by seeds, or by dividing the roots. 

Dicksonia Sandy loam and peat . . By seeds, or by dividing the roots of old plants. 

Digitalis Peat and loam cuttings, but more readily from seeds, which 

( ripen frequently. 

Dilatris Peat and light loam ... ^^'^ ^^^^ 

( be sown in leaf-mould. 

Dillwynia Sandy peat By cuttings, which require great care. 

Dimacria Light loam & sandy peat. By the little tubers of the roots. 

rThis curious plant is often lost, more for want 

Dionaea Light peat & . ) * P'"^?^^ atmosphere than for want of 

) proper soil. It should be kept damp, and 
^ partially shaded. 



1094 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

I>iosma Peat and loam Cuttings of the young shoots root freely. 

Disandria Light loam By cuttings freely. 

Disperis Loam and peat By oftVets. 

( Bv cuttings. By no means a showy genus, but 
^oion^ Loam and peat ^ -^^^^ cultivated. 

Dolichos Loam and peat From seeds and cuttings. 

Doodia Sandy peat and loam . . Seeds vegetate freely, & the roots are often divided. 

r By suckers which rise from the roots of old plants, 
Doryanthes. . . .Peat earth \ but not very frequently. Imported roots or 

C. seeds are most to be depended on. 

Dorycnium . . .Peat and loam By seeds and cuttings. 

Dracocephalum.Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Drijj^a (Sandy loam and de- ; ^g-g^^^ ^^.^^^ ^j^^ ^^1^,5^ ^^^^ 

( cayed leaves ) 

Drosera Peat and sphagnum Few Foreign species are cultivated. 

Dryandra Peat aud loam By cuttings, and by imported seeds. 

Echites Sandy loam aud peat . . By cuttings, which root freely. 

, . ( Part of the genus by cuttings, and others by 

Echium Peat and loam J 

I layers, but most by seeds. 

Edwardsia Peat and loam By seeds, and also by cuttings. 

C By cuttings, which should not have their leavea 
Ekebergia .... Loam and peat | shortened. 

r Cuttings of the ripe wood strike pretty freely ; 
Elaeocarpus. .Peat and loam "S but as seeds are sometimes produced on large 

C plants, they should be preferred. 
Elegia Sandy peat By dividing the roots. 

C By cuttings of the young wood ; and some cul- 
Elichrysum.... Sandy peat S tivators succeed by making cuttings of large 

C pieces of the branches. 

Empetrum Sandy peat Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Empleurum . . .Sandy peat By cuttings of the young wood. 

/•Seeds sometimes ripen, by which plants are ob- 

Eutelea Peat and loam < tained, as well as by cuttings of the half-ripe 

wood. 

rThis beautiful genus is not very readily in- 
J creased. Young wood is usually chosen for 

Epacris y pea < g^^^jj^g^-^ which succeed best when planted in 

V autumn or winter. 

r Most of the species are propagated by cuttings 
Erica Sandy peat < of the young wood, and many of them ripen 

(. their seeds, which vegetate freely. 

Eriocephalus . .Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

Eriospermum . Loam and peat By offsets from the roots, or by seeds. 

Erodium Rich loam ^""^"^ V cut- 

( tings of the roots. 

E thrina 5 ^^^^ and rotten C Readily by cuttings of the young shoots, when 
( dung ( about half ripe. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1095 



Soil. Mode of Propagation, 

/-Vast quantities are originated from imported 

Eucalyptus. .. .Peat and loam ^ seeds. They propagate by cuttings, although 

{ not freely. 

Euchilus Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Euclea Loam and peat . . . , , , .By cuttings. 

Eucomis Loam and peat (Byofeets fVom the bulbs, or by planting th» 

( leaves, which will produce bulbs at the base. 

Eugenia Sandy loam or peat. . . .Cuttings of the ripe wood strike freely. 

Euphorbia , . , .Sandy loam Cuttings of most sorts root freely. 

Eustrephus . . .Peat and loam By cuttings, and sometimes by seeds. 

Eutaxia Peat and loam Cuttings of<the young wood strike freely, 

Exacum Peat and loam Readily by seeds, aud also by cuttings. 

Excoecaria . . . .Light rich soil By cuttings. 

Fabricia Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Falkia . . . • c . .Peat By cuttings. 

. r ■ 1 J (By offsets from the bulbs, and from seeds which 

Ferrana ...... Light loam and peat. . . <^ ■' . ' 

I ripen freely. 

FiciTS Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Fuchsia Peat and loam AH the genus readily by cuttings. 

Galaxia Peat &, decayed leaves .. By offsets from the roots. 

Galenia Peat and loam The young wood strikes freely. 

Gardenia Rich light soil .Most freely from cuttings. 

Gastrolobium. .Peat and loam 5^^^^' sometimes ripen, by which it is increased, 

( and also by cuttings, which do not root freely. 

Gazania Light rich mould Cuttings strike freely. 

Gelsemium , . . .Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Genista Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strilfe readily. 

. (By seeds: cuttings of the roots of some species, 

Geramum .... Peat and loam < ' , ^ ^ , 

( and of the branches of others. 

Gladiolus 5 ^^"^y I By offsets from the roots. 

^ mould S 

Globularia . . . .Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood root readily. 

Glossodia Sandy loam and peat . .By seeds, and also by offsets from the roots. 

Glycine Peat and loam 5 Seeds often ripen, from which good plants are 

( obtained. They also propagate from cuttings. 

Gnaphalium. . .Peat and loam 5 '^''^^ ^.^^^ ^ ^'^^^^ '^^'^^ '^^^ 

( are sometimes obtained. 

Gnidia Peat and loam. By cuttings of the young wood. 

Gomphocarpus.Loam and peat 5 '"^^'^ produced; also by 

I cuttings, in a mild bottom-heat 

Gompholobium Peat By cuttings and seeds. 

Goodenia Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Goodia Peat and loam "P^" ^y''^'^^ ^^'^ ""'^ obtained, 

( and also by cuttings. 

Gordonia Peat and loam i °^ "P^"^*^ '^"^^ P''*'"^ 

I freely. 

r Cuttings of the ripe wood strike with care, and 

Grevillea Peat and loam, ....... I sometimes seeds are obtained of some of the 

C .*-pecies. 



109G 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagatlo*. 

Orewia Loam and peat By cuttings of the ripe wood. 

Grielum Sandy gravel Cuttings root readily. 

^ , , , (By dividing at the root, and cultivated as an 

Gvmuera Loam and peat J 

I aquatic plaut. 

Haemanthus . . .Rich sandy loam By offsets from the roots, 

Haemodonim . . Loam and peat By dividing the roots. 

Hakea Peat and loam 5^^ ^"'^^5^ of the ripe wood, put in, ia winter 

( or early in spring. 

Halleria Peat and loam By ripened cuttings. 

Hallia Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Hamiltonia. . . .Loam and peat By cuttings of the ripened wood. 

Hebenstretia . .Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Hedysarum . . .Light rich soil Both by seeds and by cuttings of the young wood. 

Helianthemum. Sandy loam and peat. .By seeds, & also by cuttings of the ripened shoots. 

Heliophila . . . .Sandy loam and peat . . 5 P""^'?^"^ ^^^'^ |^^hough cuttings of the 

( young wood will strike root. 

Heliotropium. .Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

llermannia . . .Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Herniaria Light soil Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Hibbertia Sandy loam and peat . . By cuttings. 

Hibiscus Peat and loam By seeds, and by cuttings. 

Hippia Light soil By cuttings of the young wood. 

Hippocrepis. . .Loam and peat Cuttings strike freely. 

r This genus is increased by small tubers from 
Hoarca Light turfy soil < the roots, which should not be planted deep 

C nor yet much watered. 
Ilopea Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Ilovea Peat and loam By cuttings, and sometimes from seeds. 

Hovenia Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

/- By cuttings in a brisk heat. Every leaf taken 
Hoya Rich light soil ) close off the plant and potted will make a 

(. plant, if kept in a good heat 
Hudsonia ....Peat soil (This plant is difficult either to keep or to in- 

( crease. Cuttings sometimes will root 
Hydrangea.... Rich soil ( Most readily by cuttings either of the young o 

( old wood. 

Hj-pericum ... Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Hypoxis Sandy loam and peat . .By offsets, and by seeds. 

Iberis . . - Rich light soil By cuttings freely. 

Ilex Rich soil By cuttings of the ripened wood. 

Illicium Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

ludigofera . . . .Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

lonidium Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Ipoma;a Rich light soil By cuttings in spring, in a bottom heat 

Iris Peat and loam By the suckers which they throw up from their roots. 

rLike most other plants allied to the genus Pro- 

Isopogon Peat and loam ) ^^^^ ^'^^^^^ propagate. Seeds 

J are sometimes imported by which a stock i* 
V. procured, but cuttings seldom auswer. 



GREFN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1097 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Ixia Peat aud loam ^^''^^ ^''^"^ ' ^" ^" 

( state should be kept dry. 

Ixodia Peat and loam Young cuttings root freely. 

Jacksonia Peat and loam. .... .By cuttings of both young and ripened wood. 

Jasminum . . .Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Jenkinsonia . .Turfy loam aud peat . .By cuttings. 

Justicia Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Kerria Peat and loam By cuttings and suckers from the roots. 

Keunedia Peat and loam By seeds and cuttings. 

Kiggelaria . . . .Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

Lachenalia .... Loam and peat By offsets from the bulbs 

r Ripened cuttings, taken off at a joint before they 
Lambertia . . . .Peat and loam 2 begin to grow afresh, may be stnick, but not 

(. without difficulty. 
Lanaria ... . Sandy loam aud peat . . By dividing the roots. 

Lapcyrousia ... Light rich soil Cultivated like /aria, &c. 

Larochea Sandy loam By cuttings. 

Lasiopetalura ..Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

Lavendula . . . .Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Lavatera Peat and loam i "P^"' ^^'^ 

C tings of the ripened wood. 

Laurus Peat and loam (Cuttings of the ripened wood strike root iu a 

( bottom -heat pretty freely. 

Lebeckia Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

Lechenaultia . .Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

Leonotis Rich soil Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Leontice Peat aud loam By seeds, and by dividing the roots. 

Lepidium Light soil By seeds or cuttings. 

^By seeds and cuttings; the latter is preferred, 

Leptospermum Peat and loam < as affording plants that will sooner come into 

flower. 

^Sometimes increased by cuttings, but not with- 

Leucadendron Light loam < out diflSculty. Imported seeds arc sometimes 

L to be procured. 

Leucopogon .. Peat and loam (The very tips of the young shoots will strike 

( with care, but not readily. 

Leucospermum Light loam Same as Leucadendron. 

Leysera Peat soil By cuttings. 

Liatris Peat soil By seeds, or dividing the roots. 

Lightfootia, ,. .Loam and peat Cuttings of the young shoots strike freely. 

( Cuttings of the young wood strike freely, or by 

Ligustrum Loam and peat < . , . ^, t> 

° c. marching on the common Frwet. 

Linaria Peat and loam Cuttings strike freely. 

Linum Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

f The very tips of the young shoots should be 
Liparia Peat and loam I chosen for cuttings, which, with care, will 

(. strike roots. 
Lobelia Anv rich soil ..*, Readily by cutticgs. 

7u 



1098 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

I.oddigesia . . . .Sandy loam and peat . .Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Logania Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood will root 

i^omatia Peat and loam Ripened cuttings taken oflFat ajoint wiU strike root. 

Lonicera Rich light soil Cuttings of the ripened wood strike root freely. 

( From seeds which ripen in most species freely, 

Lotus Peat and loam < jiv^ r, 

( and also by cuttings of the young wood. 

Lychnis Peat and loam By cuttings or seeds. 

Lycium Loam and peat Ripened cuttings strike freely. 

Lythnim Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

r By cuttings of the ripened wood, and some of 
Magnolia . . . Peat soil < them by inarching or budding on the com- 

(. mon sorts. 

Mahernia Loam and Peat Young cuttings strike freely. 

Malva Loam and peat By seeds, and cuttings oi -he young wood. 

Marica Loam and peat By offsets, and also by seeds. 

Marrubium Light rich soil Cuttings strike freely. 

Massonia. Sandy loam and peat . .By seeds, and by offsets from the bulbs. 

Mathiola Light soil Readily by cuttings. 

Maurandia . . . .Light rich soil Freely by seeds, and also by cuttings. 

Medicago Peat and loam By seeds and by cuttings. 

r Ripened cuttings not too old strike pretty freely. 
Melaleuca .. .Peat and loam < Seeds are also sometimes ripened, which 

C. readily vegetate. 
Melanthium . . . Sandy loam and peat . . By seeds or offsets. 

Melia Loam and peat By seeds which often ripen. 

Melianthus .... Peat and loam Readily by cuttings. 

Menispermum Loam and peat Cuttings propagate readily. 

Mesembryan. ) ^.^^^ P^^^jy cuttings, if kept diy. 

themum ) 

Mespilus Loam and peat By cuttings. 

.. ^ J, ( Best from seeds : cuttings of the ripened wood 

Metrosideros .. Peat and loam 2 , . ^ , 

( sometm[ies stnke, but not without dimculty. 

Mikania Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Mimulus Light rich soil Readily by cuttings. 

Mirbelia Sandy loain and peat . . 5 and also by seed, which sometimes 

i ripen. 

Monsonia . . . .Turfy loam By cuttings, or pieces of the root. 

Montinia .... Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Morina Light rich soil By seeds, and by dividing at the root. 

Mundia Sandy peat Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Murraya Peat and loam By cuttings in a bottom-heat 

Myoporum Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Myrica Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Myrsine Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Myrtus Peat and loam , . . .By cuttings not too ripe. 

,. . J 1 ( Cuttings, with their leaves not shortened, root 

Nandina . . . . Peat and loam J 

I freely. 

Nemesia Rich soil Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1099 



Soil. Mode of Propagation, 

Nerium Rich soil By cuttings of the young wood. 

Nicotiana Rich soil By seeds. 

Nivenia Sandy loam ^^""^ readily ^ ripened cuttings, however, some- 

( times succeed. 

Ocymum Light rich soil By cuttings. 

CEdera Peat and loam By young cuttings. 

CEnothera Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Olea Rich soil cuttings, but more readily by grafting on 

( the common Privet. 

Ononis Peat and loam \ ^""^'^^^ '^''^^ ^'^^^^^ ^""^ sometimes 

i ripened which vegetate freely. 

Onosma Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Ophiopogon . . Peat and loam By dividing the roots. 

Origanum .... Loam and peat Cuttings strike freely. 

OrnithogalLim..Loam and peat By offsets from the bulbs. 

Osteospermum Peat and loam By cuttings freely. 

Osyris Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

Othonna Peat and loam Cuttings strike freely. 

(Sometimes by seeds, and generally bv offsets 
^^^i^ Light rich soil ^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ 

Oxylobium. . . .Peat soil 5 ^^^^^^s strike root with care, and some of the 

( species ripen seeds. 
Pallasia Light rich soil By cuttings. 

Pancratium . . . Light rich soil By offsets from the bulbs, and sometimes from seeds. 

Passerina Peat and loam Young cuttings strike freely. 

r By cuttings, which should be taken off while 
Passiflora Rich soil < very young ; some of the species perfect 

(. seeds by which hybrides are produced. 
Patersonia . . . .Peat and loam By dividing at the root. 

Pavonia Peat and loam. 5^' "^^^ increased by 

( them, or by cuttings of the young wood. 

Pelargonium . .Light rich soil By cuttings, seeds, &.c. 

Pentzia Peat and loam. By cuttings. 



Persoonia Peat and loam , times root. 



I Not readily ; cuttings of the ripened wood some- 



Phlomis Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Phormium . . . .Peat and loam By offsets from the root. 

r By cuttings of the ripened wood, and also by 
Photinia Peat and loam < grafting or inarching on the different kinds 

(. of Pyrus or Mespilus. 

Phylica Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Phyllolobium . . Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood will root freely. 

Pimelea. Sandy peat By cuttings of very young wood, and also by seeds. 

Pinckneya .... Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

r Most of the species are difficult to perpetuate 
Pinus Any ordinary soil .... < otherwise than by seeds i some will, how. 

L ever, strike by cuttings. 
Pisonia . . . . Loam and peat ,By cuttings. 



1100 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Pistachia Loam and peat ^Cuttings of the ripened wood strike root, but 

I require a long time. 

T, . 1 1 _ (Cuttings, wluch do not, however, strike^ very 

Pittosporum . . .Peat and loam J o > * > > j 

^ I freely. 

Platylobium Peat soil i Seeds are sometimes ripened which produce line 

C plants ; they are also propagated by cuttings. 

Plcctranthus ...Peat and loam Young cuttings root freely. 

Plectronia . . . .Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood strike root. 

Plumbago Peat and loam Cuttings root readily iu a bottom heat. 

Podolcpis Loam and peat .... .By dividing near the root. 

Podocarpus — Peat and loam Not readily propagated by cuttings. 

Podolobium . . .Sandy peat Best by seeds, although cuttings strike pretty freely. 

Pogonia Sandy peat By offsets from the roots. 

^ From the nature of the plants, it is difficult to 

J get many cuttings of them; if the leading 
^olys^ti Peat and loam ^ ^^^^^ ^^pp^^^ p^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^.^^ 

C be produced, wliich will strike root as cuttings, 

Pomaderris . . . .Loam and peat 5 ^^"'^^ ^"^ ^^^"^^^ ^'"^ 

( times obtained, they should be preferred. 

Poterium Peat and loam Young cuttings ripen freely. 

Prasium Light rich soil By cuttings. 

Prostanthera . Peat and loam By cuttings. 

r This genus is not readily propagated otherwise 
Protea Sandy loam ) ^^"^ ^""ings are sometimes rooted, 

) but not readily, and that only in the case of 
a few species. 

Prunus Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood strike pretty freely. 

Psoralea Peat and loam By cuttings freely. 

Ptcronia Peat and loam Cuttings propagate freely. 

Pultenaea Sandy loam and peat . .By cuttings. 

Punica Peat and loam By ripened cuttings. 

Rafnia Sandy loam and peat . .Best by seeds, but will also succeed by cuttings, 

Raphiolepis . . .Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

Keaimiuria . . .Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Relhania Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Restio Peat and loam By dividing the roots. 

Rhagodia .... Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Rhamnus Peat and loam By cuttings of the ripened wood. 

Rhus Peat and loam By cuttings of the ripened wood. 

Ricinus Loam and peat Cuttings, taken off at a joint, freely strike root. 

Roelia Sandy peat By cuttings. 

Royena Loam and peat Ripened cuttings strike freely. 

Rubus Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Ruellia Rich light soil By cuttings. 

Ruscus Any light soil By dividing the roots. 

Ruta Any light soil Cuttings of the young shoots readily sUike root. 

Sagittaria , . . .Peat and loam .An aquatic genus ; by dividing at the root. 

Salicornia Any light seil By cuttings. 



GREEN-HOVSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1101 



Soil. Mode of Propagatioa. 

Salvia Any rich soil By cuttings freely. 

Saturcja Rich light soil By cuttings. 

Satyriiun Sandy loam and peat . .By seed. 

Scabiosa Peat and loam By seeds, and also by cuttings. 

Scaevola Peat and loam By cuttings. 

^ , ( Cuttings of the ripened wood, having the leavea 

Schmus Loam and peat J 

I left unshortened, strike in a mild bottom-heat. 

Schisandra .... Sandy peat and loam . . Ripened cuttings root freely. 

Schotia Peat and loam Ripened cuttings root freely. 

Scleroxylon . . . Loam and peat Ripened cuttings strike pretty freely. 

ris said to be readily propagated by cuttings, 

g ^ d t \ ^^^^^^ a joint while young j the only 

P^^^ S plants we have seen have been originated 

V. from seeds : it is still rare. 

Scutellaria .... Light rich soil By cuttings. 

Selago Peat and loam Cuttings strike freely. 

Sempervivum . .Light soil 5 Cuttings taken off and dried for a few days root 

( freely. 

Senecio Peat and loam Most readily by cuttings. 

Septas Sandy loam and peat . .Dividing the roots. 

Sida Light soil By seeds, and also by cuttings. 

Sideritis Light rich soil Cuttings root pretty freely. 

Sideroxylon... Loam and peat half-ripened shoots root, but not without 

( difficulty. 

Silene Light soil Readily by cuttings. 

Smilax Loam and peat By dividing o.t the root. 

Solanum Light rich soil Either by cuttings or seeds. 

Sorocephalus . .Light loam Treated like Protea, &c. 

Sowerbaea .... Peat soil By dividing at the root. 

Sparmania. . . .Peat and loam By cuttings readily. 

Spartium Peat and loam sometimes by cuttings of the 

( young wood. 

Sphaerolobeum. Sandy peat By seeds and cuttings. 

Spielmannia . .Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Spigelia Sandy peat Cuttings root freely. 

Sprengelia .... Sandy peat By cuttings of the young wood. 

Stachys Peat and loam By cuttings freely. 

Statice Sandy loam and peat . .By seeds, and by dividing the plant near the roots. 

Stenanthera . . .Sandy peat By cuttings of the young wood. 

Stenocarpus . .Loam and peat Ripened cuttings strike root, but not freely. 

Stenochilus . ..Peat and loam Ripened cuttings strike root, but not freely. 

Sterculia Rich loam and peat . . . Ripened cuttings strike freely. 

Stevia Sandy loam and peat . . By cuttings. 

Stillingia Rich light soil Readily by cuttings. 

Stiibcea Rich light soil By cuttings. 

Sti uthiola Peat and loam By cuttings of the young wood. 

Stylidium Sandy peat By cuttings. 

Styphelia Sandy loam and peat . .Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 



1102 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Telopea Light loam and peat 



Soil. Mode of Propagation 

Sutherlaudia . . Loam and peat Readily by seeds. 

Swainsouia Loam and peat By seeds, and also by cuttings. 

Tarchonanthus.Peat and loam By cuttings. 

^ There are but few instances of its propagating 
by any other means than from seeds, which 
are not often imported: hence its being so 
V. scarce. 

Tempeltonia , .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Teucrium Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Thomasia Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Thuja Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Trachelium . . .Peat and loam. By seeds or cuttings. 

Tristania Peat and loam By cuttings of the half-ripened wood. 

Tritoma Peat soil By dividing the roots. 

Tropaeolum . . .Rich light soil Cuttings root freely. 

Tulbagia Light sandy soil By ottsets from the bulbs. 

Uvularia . . .Loam and peat By dividing at the roots. 

Veltheimia. . . . Light loam As most bulbous plants. 

"Veronica Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Vinca Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

rAn aquatic genus, increased by dividing the 
Villarsia Peat and loam < roots, or by seeds, which are produced in 

C abundance. 

Viminaria . . . .Sandy peat Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Virgilia Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood strike freely. 

Vitex Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Wachindorfia . Sandy loam and peat . . By oftsets from the bulbs, or by seeds. 
Watsonia ., , , .Saudy loam and peat , . In the same way as the last genus. 

Westringia . . .Peat and loam Cuttings of the young shoots root freely. 

Witsenia Sandy peat By offsets from the roots, or by seeds. 

Woodwardia . . Peat and ^ eget. mould . . 5 ^^"^ "^""'^ ""^^'"'^ ^^'"^ ^"b^^' i"* 

( creased by dividing the roots, or by seeds. 

Xerotes Loam and peat By dividing at the root. 

Xylomelum. ..Peat ana loam ^"""'^^ young wood, but with con- 

( siderable difficulty. 

,r oil 1 (Suckers from the roots and stem are the natural 

1 ucca Rich loamy soil J 

( mode of propagation. 

Zieria Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Zygophyllum , .Peat and loam By cuttings, which root freely. 



1103 



SYSTEMATIC CATALOGUE 

OF 

CONSERVATORY PLANTS 



Acacia. 

Undulata. 

Oxycedrus, 

Impressa. 

Pendula. 

Cordifolia. 

Verticillata. 

Juniperina. 

Taxifolia. 

Difiusa. 

Lunata. 

Suaveolens. 

Floribunda. 

Uncinata. 

Longissima. 

Longifolia. 

Viscosa. 

Linifolia. 

Falcata. 

Dicipiens. 

Hybrida. 

Armata. 

Alata. 

Pulchilla. 

Strigosa. 

Nigricans. 

Pubescens. 

Discolor. 

MoUissima. 

Dealbata. 

Decurrens. 
Anthyllis, Barba-jovis. 
ALSTRiEMERiA, Simsii. 
ANDERSONIA, Springelioidcs. 
Andromeda, Ovalifolia. 
Anigosanthus, Flavida. 



Akbutus. 

Canariensis. 
Andrachne. 
Laurifolia. 
Ardesia, Lentiginosa. 
Aster, Argophyllas. 
Azalea 
Indica. 

a Far. Punicea. . 
h Alba. 
r PurpuriOm 
d Lutea. 

Sinensis. 
Araucaria. 

Brasiliana. 

Excelsa. 
Beaufortia. 

Decasata. 

Sparsa, 

BiECKEA. 

Virgata. 

Fnitescens. 
Berberis. 

Pinnata. 

Fasicularis. 
Banksia : (all the specie*.) 

BORBONIA. 

Cordata. 

Trinerva. 

Lauciolata. 

BORONIA. 

Alata. 

Denticulata. 

Pinuata. 

Sernilata. 



1104 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



BoSSIjEA. 

Linifolia. 
Scolopendrium. 

BURCHELLIA. 

Capensis. 

Parviflora. 
Callicoma, Serratifolia. 
Calceolaria. 

Corj'mbosa. 

Rugcsa. 

lutegrifolia. 

Scabiosajfolia. 
Callistachys. 

Ovata. 

Lanciolata. 
Callistemon. 

Speciosum. 

Lanciolatum. 

Saliguum. 

Margiuatum. 

Rigidum. 

Lineaxe. 

Formosum. 

Microphyllum. 
Calotuamnus. 

Clavatus. 

Quadrifidus. 

Villosus 

Camellia Japonica : (all the species 

and varieties.) 
Carmich^lia, Austeralis. 
Canna. 

Flacida. 

Glauca. 

Umbata. 

Indica. 

Iridiflora. 
Casuarina. 

Equisetifolia 

Torulosa. 

Stricta. 

Distyla. 
Chorizema. 

Henchmanni. 

llici folia. 
Clethera, Arborea. 

CORRJEIA. 

Alba. 
Speciosa. 



Virens. 

Pulchilla. 
Crowea, Saligna. 
Clrtisia, Fuginia. 

CUSSONIA. 

Spicata. 

Thyrciflora. 
C If CAS, Revoluta. 
CuNONiA, Capensis. 
Daviesia. 

Latifolia. 

Con mbosa. 

Ulicina. 

Glauca. 
Dais, Cotonifolia, 
Daphne, Odora. 
Datura, Arborea. 
Dillwynia. 

Pungens. 

Rudis. 

Phylicifolia. 

Florabunda. 

Erica;folia. 
DoRYANTHUs, Excclsa. 
DoNiA, Viscosa. 
Dracaena. 

Australis. 

Indivisa. 

Undulata. 
Dryandria : (all the species.) 
El^ocaupi s, Cyaneus. 
Entelea, Arboresceus. 
Erytiirina. 

Crista-galli. 

Laiin folia. 
Enkianthus. 

Quinqueflorus. 

Reticulatus. 
Epacris. 

G ran di flora. 

Purpurescens. 
EuDESMiA, Tetragona. 
Eucalyptus. 

Globulus. 

Obliqua. 

Piperita. 

Corymbosa. 

Robusta. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



1106 



KUGENIA. 

Smitliii. 

Myrtifolia, 
EucHiLus, Obcordatus. 
EuTAXiA, Myrtifolia. 
Fabricia. 

Myrtifolia. 

Laevigata. 

Sericia. 
Ficus. 

Australis. 

Elastica. 

Capensis. 
Fuchsia : (all the species.) 
GastrolobuiM, Bilobum. 

GOODIA. 

Latifolia. 

Pubescens. 

Retusa. 

Sub-pubescens, 
Gnidia: (all the species.) 

GOMPHOLOBIUM. 

Grandiflorum. 

Polymorphum. 
Grevillea : (all the species.) 
GoRDONiA, Lisianthus. 
Hake A : (all the species.) 
Hovea. 

Chorizemae folia. 

Celsi. 

Lanciolata. 
HovENiA, Dulsis. 
HuMEA, Elegans, 
Illicidm. 

Floridanum. 
Anisatum. 
Parviflorum. 
Lndigofera, Australis. 
Jacksonia, Scoparia. 
Jacaranda, Mimosifolia. 
LagkrstruEMIa, ludica. 
Lamarkia, Dentala. 
I asiopetalum. 
Arboresceus. 

Seringia Platyphylla. 
Fen-ugineum. 
Parvifluruin. 
Purpurcaui. 
Thomasia Purpurea 
Solaiiacea. 



Thomasia Solanacea. 

Quercifolia. 
Thomasia Quercifolia. 
Leptospermum : (all the species.) 
LoiMATiA, Lougifolia. 
LoDDiGEsiA, Oxalidifolia. 
Magnolia. 
Fuscata. 
Auuonafolia. 
Pumila. 

Melaleuca: (all the species.) 
Metrosideros. 

Hispida. 

Floribunda. 

Glomulifera. 

Angustifolia. 

Costa ta. 
Nandina, Domestica. 
Nerium, Splendens. 

PiEONIA. 

Moutan. 

Var. Papaveracea. 
PiTTOSPORUM : (all the specie^.) 
Pimelea : (all the species.) 
Platylobium. 

Formosum. 

Triangulare. 

Parviflorum. 
Plumbago, Capensis. 

PODALYRIA. 

Scricea. 
Bi flora. 
Styracifolia. 
Hirsuta. 
Buxifolia. 

POLYGALA. 

Attenuata. 

Oppositi folia. 

Cordifolia. 

Latifolia. 

Myrtifolia. 

Bracteolata. 

Simplex. 

Speciosa. 

Teretifolia. 

Borbonia)folia. 

Ligularis. 

Umbullata. 

F'OMADERRIS. 

Apetala. 



1106 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Elliptica. 

Acuminata. 
Pbostanthera. 

Lasianthos. 

Dentdculata. 
PcLTENuEA : (all the species.) 
Rhododendron, Arborea. 
Rota, Albiflora. 
Stenanthera, Pinif(^a. 
Stenochilus, Macalata. 



Stenocarpus, Saligna. 
Struthiola : (all the species.) 
Telopea, Spectossisima. 
Tempellonia. 

Glauca. 

Retusa. 
Tristania, Nerifolia. 
Westringia, Rosmarinifolia. 
ViMiNARiA, Denudata. 
ViRGiLiii, Intrusa. 



GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 



Acacia : (as in Conservatory List. 
Achillea, ^gyptiaca. 

ACROSTICUM. 

Alcicorne. 

Aureum. 

Vellum. 

Lingua. 
Agapanthus. 

UmbuUatus. 

Minor. 
AiTONiA, Capensis. 
Aloe : (many species.) 
Alonsoa. 

Incisifolia. 

Acutifolia. 

Linearis. 
Alstr^meria. 

Pelegrina. 

Hookeri. 

Flos-Martini. 

Ovata. 

Amaryllis : (many species.) 
Anagallis. 

Lati folia. 

Colina. 

Monelli. 

Linifolia. 
Andersonia, Sprengelioides. 
Anigosanthus, Flavida. 
Antholyza, (many species.) 



AOTUS. 

Virgata. 

Villosus. 
Anthyllis. 

Linifolia. 

Barba-jovis. 

Hetrophylla. 
Arctotus. 

Acaulis. 

Tricolor. 

Grand] flora. 

Speciosa. 

Bicolor. 

Arboresceus. 

ASPALATIIUS. 

Camosa. 

Argentea. 

Ciliaris. 

Albens. 

Hispida. 
Arduina, Bispinosa. 
Aristea. 

Cyanea. 

Spiralis. 

Capitata. 

Melaleuca. 
AspiDiDM, Axillarc. 

ASPLENIUM. 

Dentex. 

Odontites. 

Hemionitis 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1107 



AsTROLOMA, HumifusTun. 

AuLAx, Umbiillata. 

AzALiA : (as in Conservatory List.) 

Bjbkia, Virgata. 

Banksia : (the whole genera.) 

Bo&bonia: (all the species.) 

B0B.0NIA : (all the genera.) 

Bosslsa : (all the genera.) 

BOUVARDIA. 

Triphylla, et varieties. 
Brunia. 

Nodiflora. 

Alopecuroides. 

Plumosa. 

Superba. 

Formosa. 

Ciliata. 

Comosa. 

PaJeacea. 

Ericoides. 
BuBON, Galbanum. 
Burchillia, Capensis. 
Calceolaria : (all the species.) 
Cacalla. 

Repens. 

Articulata. 

Tomentosa. 
Callistachys : (all the genera.) 
Callistemon : {as in Conservatory 

List.) 
Calothamnus. 

Villosnak 

Clavattii. 

Quadrifidus. 
Camellla : (all the genera, with \ar.) 
Carmech^elu, AustraJis. 
Campanula. 

Gracilis. 

Stricta. 

Littoralis. 

Quadrifida. 

Aurea. 

Cemua. 

Mollis. 

Saxatilis. 

Laciniata. 
Chironia. 

Deccusata. 

Frutescens. 



Linoides. 

Angxistifolia. 

Baccifera. 

Lychnoides. 
Chenolia, Diffusa. 
Chorizema. 

Nana. 

Ilicifolia. 

Henchmanii. 
Cineraria. 

Geifolia. 

Canescens. 

Aurita. 

Lunata. 

Hybrida. 

Elation 

Cnienta. 

Pulchilla. 

Populifolia. 

Lobata. 

Praecox. 

Linifolia. 

Humifusa. 
CisTUs : (all the tender species.) 
ColletiA) Seratifolia. 

CORONILLA. 

Glauca. 

Juncea. 

Argentea. 

Viminalis. 
CoRR^A : (all the genera.) 
Crassdla. 

Orbicularis. 

Rosularis. 

Cotyledon. 

Cordata. 

Pellucida. 

Perfilata. 

Imbricata. 

Column axis. 

Ramuliflora. 

Concinna. 

Ligulifolia. 

Obliqua. 

Arborescens. 

Ramosa. 
Crinum : (several species.) 
Ctcas, Revoluta. 



1108 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Cyclamen. 

Persicum, ct varieties. 
Crowea aligna. 
Cyclopia. 

Geuistoides. 

Elata. 

Teruata. 

Triphylla. 
Cyrtantiius : (all the species.) 
Daphne, Odora. 
Daviesia : (all the species.) 
DiLLWYNiA : (all the specie . ) 
DioN.ECA, Muscipula. 
DIOS3IA: (all the species.) 
DiciiONDRA, Sericia. 
Digitalis, Sceptrum. 
DisANDRiA, Prosterota. 
DoRYANTiius, Excelsa. 
Dryandria: (all the genera.) 
EcHELM : (all the tender species.) 
Elichrysum: (all the genus.) 
Erodium. 

Incarnatum. 

Ilirtum. 

Crassifolium. 
Epacris : (all the genus.) 
Erica is a genus so popular, it would 
be vain to make a selection. Where 
there is any attempt at collection 
there should not be less than from 
200 to 300 species of this family. 
Erytiirina. 

Crista-galli. 

Lauri folia. 
Euphoruia. 

Caput-Medusa;. 

Mellifera. 
ErciiiLUs, Obcordata. 
Eutaxia, Myrtifolia. 
ExAciM, Viscosam. 
FalKia, Rcpens. 

Fabricia : {as in Conservatory List.) 
Fuchsia : {as in Conservatory List.) 
Gardenia. 

Florida. 

Radicaus. 
Gladiolus: (many species.) 
Gloxinia. 

Speciosa. 



Macculata. 
Gnaphalium : (all the genus.) 
GoMPiiOLOHiuM : (all the genus.) 
Goodia : (all the genus.) 
Gorteria: (all the genus.) 
Grevillea : (as in Cvnscrvalory List.) 
H\KIA : {as in Conservatory List.) 
Halleria, Lucida. 
Heliotropium. 

Penivianum. 

Corymbosum. 
IIermannia : (several s])c'cies.) 
Iliniscus. 

Scaber. 

Iletrophyllus. 

.ncanus. 

Speciosus, 

Grandiflorus. 

llispidus. 

Richardsoni. 

Patersonii. 
Ho are A : (many s]jecies.) 
Hove A : (all the genus.) 
HuMEA, Elegans. 
Hydrangea, Hortensis. 
Hypericum : (all the tender specie*.) 
Illicium : {as in Conservatory List.) 
Indigofeua. 

Filifolia. 

Sericia. 

Candicaus. 

Ama-na. 

Stipularis. 

Denudata. 

Cytisoides. 

Frutescens. 

Australis. 
IsoTOMA, Axilaris. 
IxoDiA, Achellioides. 
Jacksonia, Scoparia. 
Isopogon, 

Formosus. 

Anemonefolius. 

Longifolius. 

Trilobus. 

Teretifolius. 
IxiA: (many species.) 
Jacarandia, Mimo>ifolia. 
Lagbkstr^mia, Indica. 



GKEEN-IIOUSK AND CONSERVATORY. 



1109 



Lachenalia. 

Tricolor. 

Punctata. 

Flava. 

Pendula. 
Lambertia. 

Formosa. 

Echiuata. 
Laurus. 

Borbonia. 

Glauca. 

Camphora. 
Lechenaullia, Formosa. 
Lasiopetalum : {as in Conaervalort/ 
List.) 

Leptospermum : {as in Conservatory 
List.) 

Leccadendron, Argeuteum. 

T.OBELIA. 

Unidentata 

Piui folia. 

Bellidifolia. 

Campanuloides. 

Ilicifolia. 

Pubescens. 

Lutea. 

Coronopifolia. 
LoDDiGESiA, Oxalidifolia. 
Lotus, Jacobea. 
Magnolia. 

Pumila. 

Fuscata. 

Annonafolia. 
Maiiernia. 

Incisa. 

Diffusa. 

Burchellii. 
Malva. 

Scabra. 

Capensis. 

Elegans. 

Grossulari folia. 
Massonia : (many species.) 
Melaleuca : {as in Conservatory List.) 
Mesemdryantiiemum : (most of the 
genus.) 

Metrosideros : (as in Conservatory 
List.) 

Mimulus, Glutiuosa. 



Melianthus. 

Major. 

Minor. 
MyRTus, Communis. 
MvopORUM : (all the genus.) 
Nerium. 

Oliander. 

Splendeus. 
Nandina, Domestica. 
CEder.^j Prolifera. 
Ononis. 

Glabra. 

Natrix. 

Crispa. 

OsTEOSPERMUM, Graudiflorum. 
OxALis : (man J species.) 
OxYLOBiUM, Cordifulium. 
Pavonia, Praemorsa. 
Passerina. 

Laxa. 

Filiformis. 

Grandiflora. 

Spicata. 

Ciliata. 
Pen^a. 

Marginata. 

Squamosa. 

Mucronata. 
Pimelea : (all the genus.) 
Phylica : (several species.) 
PiTTOspoRUM : {as inConservatoryList.) 
Platylobium : (all the genus.) 
Polygala: (all the genus.) 
PuLTEN^A : (all the genus.) 
PoDOLOBiUM : (all the genus.) 
Primula, Pramitens. 
Prostantuera. 

Lasianthos. 

Violacea. 
Protea : (many species.) 
Rafnia. 

Amplexicaulis. 

EUiptica. 

Cunifolia. 

Triflora. 

Opposita. 
lloELLiA, Ciliata. 
Ruta, Albiflora. 



1110 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Salvia. 

Coccinia. 
Pulcliill I. 
Colorata. 

SCHOTIA. 

Speciosa. 

Tamarindifolia. 
ScoTTiA, Dentata. 
Selago. 

Corombosa. 

Spicata. 
Sempervivicm. 

Arboreum. 

Tabulaeforme. 
S piioRA : (several species.) 
^ .'ARMANNiA, Africana. 

PARTILM. 

Monospermum. 

Sphaerocarpum. 
Spu^rolobium. 

Viiriineum. 

Medium. 
Staavia. 

Kadiata 

Glutinoba. 



SOLANUM. 

Laciniatam. 

Querdfolia. 

Marginata. 
Sowerbea, Juncea. 
Spielmannia, Africana. 
Taxus, Nucifera. 
Tempeltonia. 

Retusa, 

Glauca. 

Thomasia. See Lasiopctalum. 
Telopea, Speciosissima, 
Trevirania, CocciDia. 
Tristinia, Neriifolia. 
Trop^olcm. 

Minus, flora pleno, 

JAajxis, flora pleno. 

Hybridum. 

Pinnatum. 
Veronica, Perfoliata. 
ViMiNARiA, Denudata. 
Verbena. 

Aubletia. 

Lambertii. 
Westringa, Rosmarini folia. 
Zieria, Smithii. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY 
CLIMBERS. 



Aristolochia. 

Glauca. 

Sempervirens. 

Rotunda. 

Hirta. 
Asparagus. 

Retrofractus. 

Capensis. 

Scandenjt, 
BiGNONiA, Capreolata. 
Billardiera : (all the genus.) 



Bracuysema. 

Latifolia. 

Undulata. 
Clematis. 

Coriacea, 

Aristata. 

Hedysarefolia. 

Brachiata. 
Cissus. 

Antarctica. 

Capensis. 



GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 1111 



Pentaphylla. 
Quiuata. 
CoB2EA, Scandens. 

DOLICHOS. 

Hirsutus, 

Lignosus. 

Capensis. 
Edstrephus. 

Latifolius. 

Angustifolius. 
Glycine. 

Seciinda. 

BiUuniuosa. 

Angustifolia. 

Hetrophylla. 
Gelsemium, Sempervirens. 
HoTA, Carinosa. 

HiBBERTIA. 

Grossalariaefolia. 

Volubilis. 

Dentata, 

I POME A. 

Sinuata. 

Pendula. 

Carolina. 

JiSMINUM. 

Gracile. 



Acuminatum. 

Azoricum. 

Grandiflorum. 

Odoratissimum. 
Kennedia: (all the genus.) 
MiKANiA, Scandens. 
Madrandia. 

Semperflorans. 

Antirrhiniflora. 

Barkleyana. 
Passiflora. 

Lutea. 

Maculata. 

Coerulia-racimosa. 

Alato-Coerulia. 

Edulis. 

Chinensis. 

Filementosa. 

Herbertiana. 

Adiantifolia. 
RoBUS, Moluccanus. 
Ruscus. 

Androgyiius. 

Reticulatus. 

Volubilis. 
Smilax, Australis. 
Testudinaria, Elephantipes. 



In offering the Systematic Catologiies, both of Fruits and Flowers, we do not 
mean to advise collections to be exclusively formed from them, as many valuable 
fruits are yearly coming into notice ; and however favorable circumstances may 
have been to bring a vast number of sorts under our observation, there are some 
that we have never seen, and many that are not definitely settled as to name, &c., 
of which we could give no correct description. As far as the nature of the case 
would admit, we have described no fruit, nor enumerated any plant, which we 
have not seen in some state or other. In reference to the Catalogue of Conser- 
vatory Plants, it is entirely formed of such plants as we have either cultivated or 
seen cultivated with success ; and the plants in the Green-house List are such 
as, according to our view of the case, would form a very complete collection where 
a display of bloom is more a desideratum than a full botanical enumeration, 
when the number of species are generally more appreciated than an abundance 
of flowers, or diversity of foliage. 



INDEX. 



Acon's (Mr.) method of forcing vines, 
579. 

Aeration, advantages of, 38. 
Alpine or rock-garden, construction of 
the, S21). 

Alpine and other rare plants in pots, 
care of, HoS, 863, 909, 921, 926, 913, 
946, 959. 

Alpine and rare plants requiring pro- 
tection, 813. 

American cress, sowing, 123, 212. 

Anemonies, ranunculuses, &c., plant- 
ing, 844, 868, 878, 936. 

Annuals sown in autumn, transplanting, 
8()2. 

Ants, method of destroying, 39o ; Mr. 

Wilmot's method, 395. 
Aphides, method of destroying, 396. 
Apricot and peach-trees, management 

of, 411. 

Apricots, pruning, 351 j Systematic Ca- 
talogue of, 483. 

Apples, pears, and trees upon walls, ex- 
amination of, 431 ; Catalogue of, 449. 

Arboratum, on the, 810. 

Arrangement of plants in green-house, 
1073. 

Artichokes, management of, 71, 211, 
218; covering up, 252 ; planting of, 
103, 159; spring dressing, 101, 138; 
pruning of, 198. 

Artificiid spawn of mushrooms, method 
of obtaining, 22;3. 

Asparagus, ]ilanting, 107; spring dress- 
ing, l07, 138, 248 ; to cover up, 25 1 ; 
method of pliinlinjr, 109; directions 
for cutting, 1.39, 181; to force, 249, 
614, 683. 

Atkinson (Mr.) on hot water, as applied 

to heating hot- houses, &c., 510. 
Auriculas, management of, 864, 880, 

897, 908, 921, 925, 927. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses, sowing 

seeds of, 852. 
Autumn Pears, Systematic Catalogue 

of, 470. 



Basil, sowing, 118, 146. 

Beans, planting, 66, 87,97, 125, 151, 
173, 190, 245, 252, 258; earthing 
up, 88 ; forcing, 631. 

Beds of mushroom^-., spawning the, 618. 

Beet, sowing, 91, 112, 135; to lift and 
store, 246. 

Beets, thinning the crops of, 163. 

Biennial flower garden plants, Syste- 
matic Catalogue of, 975. 



Biennial flower-seeds, sowing, 851, 963, 
895. 

Birds, preserving fruits from, 413. 
Black Spanish radish, to sow, 213. 
Blood as manure, 47. 
Blossoms of fruit-trees, protecting the, 
381. 

Bones, as manure, 46. 

Borage, sowing, 146. 

Borecole, sowing, 128, 157 ; planting 

out, 176, 194. 
Borders for fruit-trees, on the formation 

of, 325. 

Borders of the flower garden, dressing 

the, 941, 948. 
Borders of the conservatory, formation 

of, 987. 

Botanic tlower garden, construction of, 
822. 

Box, planting edgings of, 813, 849, 860, 

875 ; cutting, 876. 
Brussels' sprouts, sowing, 103, 126; 

planting out, 177, 195 ; to eartli up, 

248. 

Bulbous Irises, planting, 937. 
Bulbous roots, planting, 924, 930, 
943. 

Bulbs for forcing, potting, 1078. 
Bulbs past flowering, taking up, 898, 
902,911. 

Broccoli, management of, 74, 211 ; to 
earth up, 218 ; sowing, 99, 127, 155 ; 
planting, 155, 175, 199, 234. 

Broccoli seed, to sow, 199. 



Cabbage-plants, planting out, 70, 2^33, 
246. 

Cabbages, to transplant for seed, 70 ; 
to transplant, 81, KM), 191; sowing, 
81, lUO, 128, 174; earthing up, 85, 
157, 175 ; late crops of, to j)lant, 25(>. 

Calvelles (dessert). Systematic Cata- 
logue of, 451. 

Camellia-house, on the construction of 
the, 998. 

Camellias, on the cultivation of, 1051; 
proper season for grafting, 1055. 

Caraway, sowing, 146. 

Cardoons, sowing, 165, 182, 198; to 
earth up, 197, 215, 250, 2.55. 

Care of the various sorts of lettuce sown 
in autumn, 77 ; of newly-grafted 
trees, 402 ; of newly-planted shrubs 
and ornamental trees, 901 ; of car- 
nations and pinks coming into flower, 
911; of green-house plants set out 
in May, 1065. 



INDEX. 



1113 



Cape Broccoli, management of, 74; 
planting of, 127. 

Capsicums, sowing, 120, 136, 167, 178. 

Carnations, management of, 866, 881, 
925 ; soils proper fur, 866, 867 ; in 
pots, 896 ; in the flower borders, 897. 

Carnations and pinks, transplanting, 
8.53; propagating, 903, 911, 920; 
coming into iiower, care of, 911, 92o. 

Carrot- seed, to sow, to stand the winter, 
241 ; to save, 2o3. 

Carrot;;, sowing, 63, 88, 116, 137, 198, 
209; thinning and cleaning, 170, 
178 ; to take up, 242 ; forcing, 634. 

Cast-iron flues, on, 529. 

Caterpillars, method of destroying, 396. 

Cauliflowers, management of, 72, 86, 
125,264; transplanting and sowing, 
98, 126, 154, 216; to prick out, 174, 
243; to plant late, 191 ; to store, 244. 

Cauliflower-seed, to save, 174. 

Celeriac, sowing, 105 ; transplanting, 
138. 

Celery, to earth up, 75; sowiwg, 88, 
105, 162; transplanting, 137, 208; 
to prick out and j>lant, 161, 177, 190, 
215; blanching, 215; to earth up, 
250 ; to cover up, 253. 

Cellular walls, description of, 19. 

Changeable flower garden, construction 
of the, 824. 

Chard, to produce, 211. 

Cherries, forcing, 589, 669. 

Cherries and plums, pruning and train- 
ing, 352. 

Cherries, Systematic Catalogue of, 487. 
Chervil, sowing, 1 18. 
Chives, planting of, 91, 113. 
Chrysanthennmis, planting out, 886. 
Classificati(jn of cro])s, 62. 
Clearing the borders about wall-trees, 
436. 

Cleft or slit grafting, 371. 

Club, method of curing the disease 
called the, 155. 

Codlings (dessert). Systematic Cata- 
logue of, 455. 

Coleworts, to sow, 203 ; to plant, 209, 
233. 

Compost manures, convenient prepara- 
tion of, 51. 

Compost for the borders of the conser- 
vatory, 98f'. 

Conservatory, situation of the, 980 ; 
construction of the, 982. 

Conservatory at the Grange, represeli- 
tation of, 981. 

Conservatory plants, Svstematic Cata- 
logue of, 1 103. 

Construction of the ])inc-house, 565 ; 
of succession pine-])its, 573 ; of rustic 
seats, 809; of the conservatory, on 

7 



the, 982 ; of the green-house, 994 ; 
of the heath-house, 996 ; of the 
orange-house, 997 ; of the camellia- 
house, 998. 

Coriander, sowing, 118. 

Corn-salad, sowing, 123. 

Coriopsis Tinctoria, and similar annu- 
als, on the cultivation of, 871. 

Cranberries, Systematic Catalogue of, 
512. 

Crit€riou of a fine double-hyacinth, 

878 ; of a fine variegated late tulip, 

879 ; of a fine auricula, 880 ; of a 
fine carnation, 914 ; of a fine double 
pink, 916. 

Crops, systematic alternation of, 58. 

Cucumbers and melons, forcing, 598; 
for pickling, 168, 203 ; impregnation 
of, 671, 679, 69.5, 708; Sys'tematic 
Catalogue of, 501. 

Cucumbers, ^Mr. Reed's method of ob- 
taining an early crop of, 603. 

Culinary or kitchen garden, formation 
of the, 1 ; size and extent of the, 9 ; 
form and arrangement of the, 10 ; 
entrance to the, 31 ; work to be done 
in January, 80 ; in February, 96 ; in 
March, 124; in April, 149; in May, 
171 ; in June, 189 ; in July, 206 ; in 
August, 214 ; in Septeml>er, 237 ; in 
October, 251 ; in November, 257 ; 
in December, 260 ; productions of, 
for the year, 267. 

Culinary or kitchen apples, Systematic 
Catalogue of, 459. 

Culinary productions, hot-beds for forc- 
ing, 698. 

Culinary seeds, Systematic Catalogue 
of, 273 ; roots and herbs. Systematic 
Catalogue of, 292. 

Culinary vegetables, watering crops of, 
187. 

Culinary vegetables, to protect, 260. 
Culinary pears. Systematic Catalogue 
of, 476. 

Currants, planting and pruning, 354, 
359, 3()9 ; summer pruning, 406, 441 ; 
Systematic (Jatalogue of, 509. 

Curl, remarks on the disease of the, 1.33. 

Cultivation of white and green beet, 186. 

Curvilinear hot-houses, on, 526. 

Cushing (Mr.), his method of grafting 
the orange-tree, 1018. 



Dahlias, planting, 882 ; propagating, 

884; taking up, 941. 
Dandelion, sowing, 123; forcing, 639. 
Deciduous shrubs and trees, planting, 

846, 873, 929, 941,946. 
Dessert pears. Systematic Catalogue of, 

468 

D 



1114 



INDEX, 



Dessert apples, Systematic Catalogiie 
of, 'IjO; peannains, 4o3; nonpareils, 
4o3 ; russets, 454 ; rennets, 4o4 ; 
calvelles, 4.34; qneeniugs, 4oo ; cod- 
lings, 430; sorts, 4t>o. 

Dessert sorts, Systematic Catalogue of, 
45.5. 

Dick (Mr. John), his frame for the 
protection of fruit trees, description 
of, 388. 

Diflerent modes of training vines, 443. 

Digging the ground among gooseberries 
and currants, 3G1, 430. 

Digging the ground among young or- 
chard trees, 446. 

Digging the ground among small fruits, 
44G. 

Digging the shrubbery and flower bor- 
ders, 847, 8;39. 

Directions for cutting asparagus, 159. 

Disbudding or rubbing off the useless 
buds of wall-trees, 400, 404. 

Disbudding vines on the walls, 401. 

Double flowers, propagating various, 
871. 

Draining, its varieties and effects, 52. 

Dressine: the borders of the flower gar- 
den, 914, 948. 

Drooping fan method of training, on 
the, 342. 

Dung of sheep and deer as manure, 16 ; 
of birds, 4G. 



Earthing up celtry, 75 ; cabbages, 85 ; 

beans, 88. 
Earthing up and sticking peas, 98. 
Earth-worms, method of destroying, 395. 
Earw igs, meihud of destroying, 392. 
Edmonstone pit for forcing encumbers 

and melons, description of, 601. 
Endive, to sow, KkS, 209 ; to transplant, 

182, 195, 209, 214 ; blanch, to, 196, 

209, 240; in store for winter use, 

241. 

Ericas (Mr. Page on the cultivation of), 

1038; propagation of, 1019. 
Eschalots, planting, 69, 95, 204. 
Espalier fruit-trees, planting, 36.3. 
Established apple, pear, plum, and 

cherry-trees, management of, 409. 
Evergreen shrubs, planting, 873, 892, 

911,919,927, 929, 941. 
Examination uf apples, pears, and other 

trees, upon walls, 434. 
Excellence of green vegetable matter as 

manure, 45. 



Fan method of training, on the, 339. 
Fennel, sowing, 146. 
Ferrarias, planting, 870. 



Fig trees, planting and propagating, 

3()9 ; care of, 426. 
Figs, priming, 359 ; forcing, 598, 070 , 

Systematic Catalogue of, 490. 
Final thinning of wall-fruits, 422. 
Florists' flowers, managemeut of, 844, 

851, 861. 

Flower garden, Introduction to the, 
801 ; situation of, 820; Monthly 
Operations of the, January, 836 ; 
Febaiarv, 846; March, 8.35; April, 
873; May, 892; June, 901; July 
911; August, 919 ; September, 924 , 
October, 929; November, 941; De- 
cembcr, 946. 

Flower garden herbaceous plants, Sys- 
tematic Catalogue of, 963. 

Flower garden borders, management of, 
853; dressing, 911. 

Flower garden plants by cuttings, pro- 
pagating, 902. 

Flower seeds, gathering, 922, 928, 

Flowering of early potatoes, experiment 
of Mr. Knight on the, 130. 

Flowering shrubs, transplanting, 927. 

Flues, on, .329. 

Forcing flowers, care of, 815. 

Forcing- houses, steam as applied in the 
heating of, 535. 

Farcing asjiaragus, 614, 683; beans, 
631 ; carrots, 634 ; cherries, 589, 
669 ; cucumbers and melons, 598, 
661,69.3,708; dandelion, 639 ; figs, 
598, 670 ; French or kidney-beans, 
618, 683; mint, tansey, and other 
herbs, 635; mushrooms, 644, 698; 
mustard and cress, 633 ; peaches, 
58 4, 657, 690, 701 ; peaches in pots 
or boxes, 588 ; peas, 630 ; potatoes, 
022; radishes, 631; rhubarb, 636; 
salads, 698; sea- kale, &40 ; straw- 
berries, 609, 682; vines, 576, 659, 
665, 693, 705. 

Footpaths, on, 5.30. 

Formation of borders for fruit-trees, 32.3. 

Formation of the borders of the con- 
servator}-, 987. 

Frame dei;artment, to protect. 260. 

French beans, sowing, 142, 169, 186, 
200; forcing, 618, 683. 

Fruit trees, situations and soils for, 309 ; 
season of planting, 312; procuring, 
313; planting, 314, 355, 445 ; pnin- 
ing, 337, 367, 441 ; grafting, 370, 
420. 

Fruits, select lists of, 513. 

Fruits, neglected, or not in general cul- 
tivation, list of, .312. 

Fruit-tree boi'ders, dressing, 357; dig- 
ging, 378 ; clearing, 427. 

Fruits upon espalier and standard trees, 
thinning of, 4.34. 



INDEX. 



1115 



Fruits, gathering, 428. 
Fruit-trees, preparations for plantiug, 
435. 

Fruit for carriage, on packing, 430. 
Fruiting piue-plauts, 574, 053,099,719. 
Fuel, on, 535. 
Furnace, on the, 532. 



Garden walls, description of, 26. 
Garlic and rocambole, planting, 68, 89, 
204. 

Gathering fruits, 428 ; late fruits, 446 ; 
and storing winter fruits, 437 ; flower 
seeds, 922, 928. 

Geans, Systematic Catalogue of, 490. 

General care of wall-trees, 405, 437. 

General crops of onions, to clear, 160. 

General management of the green- 
house and conservatory, 1006, 1012, 
1057, 1002, 1079, 1081. 

Germes, propagation of plants by, 1088. 

Glazing and painting hot-houses, 551. 

Gledstone's (Mr.) Method' of growing 
celery, 193. 

Gooseberiics and currants, planting and 
pruning, 354, 359, 368; digging the 
ground among, 361, 436; summer 
pruning, 406, 414 ; Systematic Cata- 
logue of, 507. 

Gourds, to sow, 148 ; to plant out, 166. 

Grafft Blaikie, on the use of the, 1056. 

Grafting by approach, 372. 

Grafting clay, composition of, 377. 

Grafting fmit-trees, 371. 

Grafting, implements for, 377. 

Grafting trees, on, 402, 420. 

Grass lawns, grass and gravel walks, 
care of, 840, 848, 849, 857, 858, 876, 
912. 

Gray (Mr.), his mode of cultivating 

orange-trees, 1023. 
Grapes, retarding the maturation of, 

668. 

Green-house, situation of the, 981. 
Green-house, on the constmctiun of the, 
994. 

Green-house and conservatory plants, 
an enumeration of the principal ge- 
nera of, with the soil each genus 
thrives in, &c., 1083. 

Green-house and conservatory climbers. 
Systematic Catalogue of, 1110. 

Green-house ]ilants in pits and cold 
frames, 1008, 1029. 

Green-house plants, Systematic Cata- 
logue of, 1 106. 

Green-house aquarium, on the make of, 
1000. 

Green house, shifting and repotting 

plants of the, 1030. 
Grubs, method of destroying, 399. 



Hardy and half-hardy annuals, trans- 
planting, 901. 

Half-hardy ajinuals, sowing, 850, 861, 
877. 

Hamburg parsley, saving, 69, 91, 1 12 ; 
thinning, 178. 

Hardy annuals, sowing, 850, 861,876, 
892 ; planting, 893 ; Systematic Ca- 
talogue of, 976. 

Hardy climbers. Systematic Catalogue 
of, 961. 

Hardy deciduous flowering shrubs. Sys- 
tematic Catalogue of, 957. 

Hardy evergreen- trees and shrubs, Sys- 
tematic Catalogue of, 951. 

Hardy shrubs which thrive under the 
drip and shade of trees, Systematic 
Catalogue of, 954; deciduous, 955; 
evergreen, 955 ; climbers, 955. 

Hardy shrubs by cuttings, propagating 
of, 8 12 ; layers, 843. 

Hardy shrubs fur planting by the sides 
of rivers, ponds, &.c., Systematic Ca- 
talogue of, 957. 

Hardy shrubs of rapid growth. Syste- 
matic Catalogue of, 956. 

Hardy trees and shrubs, pruning, 839, 
846. 

Hand-glass, description of a, 865. 

Hawkins (Mr.), his method of propa- 
gating orange-trees, 1022. 

Heading down or renewing old fruit- 
trees, 363, 368. 

Heath-huuse or heathery, construction 
of the, 996. 

Henderson (Mr.), his method of grafting 
the orange tribe, 1019. 

Herbaceous plants, planting, 851,860, 
882, 929, 943. 

Herbaceous plants for forcing, potting 
of, 943 ; by cuttings, propagating of^ 
895 ; by dividing their rooLs, 896. 

Herbs, to cultivate, 169, 187. 

Hueing and earthing up jiotatoes, 162. 

Hugan's (Mr.) method of growing mush- 
rooms, 232. 

Hogg (Mr.), his composition for carna- 
tions, 866. 

Hollow walls, description of, 19. 

Horizontal method of training, on the, 
339. 

Horizontal method of training with 
double stem, on the, 342. 

Horn, as manure, 47. 

Horse-radish, propagation of, 93, 113. 

Hot-beds for forwiwdiug culinary pro- 
ductions, 698. 

Hot-houses, materials of which they 
should be formed, 518; on the form 
of roofs of, 525 ; on heating, 528 ; 
hot water, as ai)])licd to heatiug, 510; 
glazing and paint' og, 551. 



1116 



INDEX. 



Hot walls, description of, 20. 
Hyacinths, management of, 8G9, 878. 
Hyacinths in beds, management of, 81)8, 

932 ; for forcing, 93 1 ; in the flower 

borders, 935. 



Ice-house, and its management, 2C1 ; 
to fill, 2()3. 

Ice in stacks, to keep, 264. 

Indian cress, sowing, 118, 122. 

Insects on fmit-trees and bushes, de- 
struction of, 390, 412, 421, 431, 431. 

Insects in the green-house, destruction 
of, 1018. 

Introduction to the Fruit Garden, 303 ; 

to the Forcing Garden, 515; to the 

Green-house and Conservatory, 979. 
In\cntion for sticking Knight's marrow 

peas, 153. 
Iron espaliers, figure of, 321. 
Irregular fan method of training, on 

the, 341. 



Jerusalem artichokes, jilauting, 106. 
Jonquils, planting, 937. 



Kidney-beans, sowing, 113, 142, 169, 
180, 200. 

Knight (Mr.) on the flowering of eaily 
potatoes, 130 ; on the open fan me- 
thod of training fruit trees, 344; on 
the ])reser\ ation of fruits, 439 ; on 
the cultivation of early potatoes, 024 ; 
his mclhod i>f forcing cucumbers, 
672; on melon-plants, 712. 

Late cauliflowers, to plant, 190. 

Latham's (Mr.) method of training 
vines on the roofs of cottages, 34 1. 

Lawn, on the, 806. 

Laying down winter onions, ICO. 

Leeks, sowing, 92, 113, 138; to trans- 
plant, 170, 199. 

Lettuce-seed, Hanoverian method of 
saving, 180. 

Lettuce, sowing, 77 j care of the various 
sorts of, sown in autumn, 77 ; sow- 
ing and planting, 91, 122, 123, 139, 
178, 212, 235, 239; i)lanting for 
winter u.se, 234 ; for frames, 236 ; 
general numagement of, 256. 

Liliums, planting, 938. 

Lime, as manure, 49. 

Liquorice, planting, 96. 

Lobelias, planting, 889. 

Love-apples, general management of, 
163; sowing, 120, 143, 178. 



M'Intosh (Mr.), description of his 
newly-invented orange-box, 1026 ; 
description of his verge-cutter, 818. 

MM eod's method of growing broccoli, 
156. 

M'Phail's pits for forcing cucumbers and 
melons, description of, 599. 

Maddock (Mr.), his soil for carnations, 
867. 

Management of newly-planted trees, 
409 ; of established apple, pear, plum, 
and cherry-trees, 409; of apricot and 
peach-trees, 411. 

Manures, variety and uses of, 42. 

Manure, cheap and efficacious method 
of obtaining, 51. 

Materials for the corrstruction of drains, 
53. 

Materials of which hot-houses should be 

formed, 518. 
Marigold, sowing, 146. 
Marjoriun, sowing and planting, 146. 
Medicinal plants, propagating, 147. 
Melons, Systematic Catalogue of, 498. 
Melon and cucumber ground, situation 

of the, 32. 
Metallic houses, observations on, 523. 
Michaelmas cauliflowers, to manage, 

217. 

Mignionette for winter and spring use, 

sowing, 916. 
Mint, management of, 7.S ; planting of, 

119, 140; forcing, 635. 
Mixed flower garden, construction ol 

the, 825. 

Monthly Operations of the Kitchen 
(Jai den, .lanuarv, 63 ; February 83 ; 
March, 97; April, 125; Mav,'l51 ; 
June, 173; July, HX); August, 207 ; 
SeptcMuber, 215"; October, 238; No- 
vember, 252 ; December, 258. 

Monthly Operations in the Fruit Gar- 
den, January, 337; February, 355; 
March, 3(13 ; April, 384 ; May, 403 ; 
J une, 409 ; July, 416 ; August, 426 ; 
September, 433 ; October, 437 ; No- 
vember, 41 1 ; December, 448. 

Monthly Operations in the Forcing Gar- 
den, January, .555 ; February, 653 ; 
March, 684; April, 699 ; May, 751 ; 
June, 733 ; July, 746 ; August, 751 ; 
September, 764 ; October, 7(58 ; No- 
vember, 779 ; December, 786. 

Monthly Operations of the Flower Gar- 
den, January, 836; February, 816; 
March, 8.55 ; April, 873 ; May, 892 ; 
June, 901 ; July, 911 ; August, 919 • 
September, 924'; October, 929; No 
vember, 941; December, 946. 

Monthly Operations of the green-house 
and Ctmservatciy, January, lOOi ; 
February, 1012; March) 102<) ; 



INDEX 



1117 



Aprii, iv*i/ ; May, \ 0Ci9 ; .Tune, 10G.3 ; 
July, 10G7; August, 1()G7 ; Septem- 
ber, 1069; October, 1072 ; November, 
1077; December, 1081. 

Moths, method of destroying, 393. 

Mulberry, Systematic Catalogue of, 
oil. 

Mushroom beds, directions for making, 
220; management of, 269; forcing, 
6i4, 098; spawning, 648. 

Mushrooms, management of, 7o, 92, 
113 ; Botanical history of, 218; Cul- 
tivation of, 221 ; Bauman's (Mr.) Me- 
thod of growing, 228; '\^'ales' (Mr.) 
Method, 229. 

Mustard and cress, forcing, 633. 



Nairn (Mr.), his Method of grafting the 
orange-trce, 1018. 

Narcissus, planting, 938. 

Nasturtiums, sowing, 118, 122, 139. 

Nectarines, pruning, 346, 360 ; Syste- 
matic Catalogue of, 481. 

Newly grafted and budded trees, care 
of, 402, 407. 

Newly planted bushes, watering, 400, 

Newly planted trees, watering and pro- 
tecting, 378, 390 ; management of, 
409. 

Newly planted shrubs and ornamental 

trees, care of, 901. 
Newly planted fruit trees, heading down, 

368. 

New Zealand spinach, directions for 

cultivating, 178. 
Nichol (Mr.) on the management of 

orchard grounds, 446. 
Nonpareils (dessert). Systematic Cate- 

logue of, 4.33. 
Normandy cress, sowing, 122. 
Nursing pine plants, 670, 653, 684, 7 lo. 
Nuts, Systematic Catalogue of, 512. 



Offsets, propagation of plants by, 1087. 

Oldacre's (Mr.) mushroom house, de- 
sciiption of, 64 1. 

Old fruit trees, heading down or renew- 
ing, 363. 

Onions, sowing, 76, 114, 140, 198, 
preparing ground for the sowing of, 
89 ; winter crop of, 90; planting of, 
for seed, 116; transplanting, 140; 
general crop of, to clear, 160, 185; 
transplanted, to clear, 161 ; laying 
down, 210 ; lifting the crops of, 234. 

Open fan method of training, on the, 
*^13, 344. 

Orange-house, on the construction of 

the, 997. 
Oranges, management of, 1015. 
Orchard trees, planting, 357. 



Ornamental trees and shrubs, planting, 
836. 



Packing frnit for carriage, 430. 

Parsley, sowing, 68, 91, 1 1 1, 212. 

Parsneps, sowing 93, 111, 137; thin- 
ing, 179 ; to take up, 243. 

Peaches and nectarines, pruning, 315; 
gathering of, 433, 360. 

Peaches, Systematic Catalogue of, 476; 
forcing, 584,657, 690, 701 ; in pots 
or boxes, forcing, 588 ; on hot-walls, 
management of, 703. 

Peach-trees, management of, 411. 

Peach-trees, nailing and anointing the 
branches of, 349. 

Pearmains (dessert) Systematic Cata- 
logue of, 453. 

Pears, Systematic Catalogue of, 467. 

Peas, sowing, 64, 83, 97,^125, 151, 173, 
190, 238, 252, 258 ; earthing and 
sticking, 98, 152 ; stopping, 154 ; 
forcing, 630. 

Pea glass-case, description of the, 65. 

Peg-grafting, 374. 

Perennial flower seeds, sowing, 851, 
863. 

Pickling cucumbers to plant out, 181. 

Pigeons' dung, as manure, 46. 

Pines, Systematic Catalogue of, 502; 

culture of, 555. 
Pine-house, construction of the, 565. 
Pine plants, nursing, 570, 653, 684, 

715; fruiting, 571, 653,689, 699, 

719 ; succession, 573, 653, 687, 699, 

718. 

Pinks, management of, 868 ; transplant- 
ing, 853. 

Pinks in beds, management of, 897; 
coming into flower, care of, 91 1, 925. 

Plants, training and supjjorting, 8S)9. 

Planting beans, 66, 87, 97, 125, 151, 
173, 190, 245, 252, 258; garlic and 
rocambole, 68, 89 ; eschalots, 69,95 ; 
cabbage plants, 70 ; potato-onions, 
80, 114; potatoes 83, 102, 129; 
chives, 91, 1 13 ; licpiourice, 96 ; arti- 
chokes, 103, 159; Jerusalem arti- 
chokes, 106; asparagus, 107; Cape 
broccoli, 127; mint, 119, 146; sage, 
146; thyme, 147; tansy, 147; sa- 
vory, 184; broccoli, 179,'l99; leeks, 
176, 199; anenionies, ranunculuses, 
&c., 84 i, 868, 878, 93(5; bulbous 
irises, 937 ; bulbous roots, 921, 
930 ; the conservatory, 990 ; chry- 
santhemums, 886 ; dahlias, 882 ; edg- 
ings of box, 842; ever-green shrubs, 
873, 892, 911, 919, 927, 929, 941 ; 
and propagating fig-trees, 3ii9 ; fruit- 
trees, 314, 355, 440; and pruning 
gooseberries and currants, 351, 359, 



1118 



INDEX. 



368 ; herbaceous plants, 8.51 ; jon- 
quils, 937; liliums, 93S ; lobelias, 
889 ; narcissuses, 938 ; orchard trees, 
3o7 J onions for seed, 116; orna- 
mental trees and shrubs, 83G; and 
j)runing raspberries, 364, 3;39, 369 ; 
vleciduous shrubs and trees, 846, 873, 
929, 941, 916; radishes for seed, 
161; small fruit5, 446 ; strawberries, 
378, 400 ; tulips, 935 ; wall, espalier, 
and standard fruit trees, 3()3. 

Plums, prniring and training,3o2 ; Sys- 
tematic Catalogue of, 485. 

Polyanthuses, management of, 865, 
908 ; sowing seeds of, 852. 

Pot and medical herbs, sowing and plant- 
ing various kinds of, 120. 

Potatoes, planting, 83, 102; hoeing and 
earthing up, 162, 179; to take up 
and store for winter use, 241 ; forcing, 
622 ; for winter use, Dr. Noehdeu's 
method of preserving, 637. 

PotatD-onions, planting, 80, 1 14. 

Potting bulbs fur forcing, 1078. 

Potting of herbaceous plauts for forcing, 
913. 

Potting off seedling heaths, 1071. 
Prei)aring shrubs for forcing, 941. 
Preparation of ground for sowing onions, 

89. • 
Preparations for planting fruit-trees, 

43.5. 

Preserving fruits from birds, 413. 

Preserving of small fruits, 440. 

Pricking out tender annuals, 860 ; half- 
hardy annuals, 877. 

Procuring fruit trees, 313. 

Productions of the culinary garden for 
the year, 267. 

Propagating carnations, 903 ; dahlias, 
885; ericas, 1049; evergreen shrubs, 
&.C. 919; flower-garden plants, by 
cuttings, 902 ; green-house and con- 
servatory trees, 1010, 1027, 1035, 
1063 ; hardy shrubs, by cuttings, 842 ; 
layers, 843 ; herbaceous plants, 882, 
920,924,929 ; herbaceous plants, by 
cuttings, 895, 920 ; by dividing their 
rcots, S9G ; horse-radish, 93 ; medi- 
cinal plants, 147; various double 
flowers, 871 ; various kinds of green- 
house i>lants for planting out in the 
flower- borders, 869. 

Propagation of plants, Mr. Sweet's re- 
marks on, 1035; by seeds, 1040, 
1049; by layers, 104"'l ; by budding, 
grafting, and inarching, 1042 : by 
cuttings, offsets, slips, geimes, run- 
ners, suckers, &c., 108.5. 

Proper arrangement and aspects of 
fruit-trees upon walls, and the dis- 
tance at which they should be planted, 
331. 



Protecting the blossoms of fniit-trees 
384 ; tender shrubs and plants, 813. 

Pumpkins, to sow, 148 ; to plant out, 
166. 

Purslane, sowing; 119, 140. 



Queenings (dessert), Systematic Cata- 
logixe of, 455. 



Radishes, sowing of, 78, 96, 117, 167, 
181 , 20.5, 212, 2.50 ; planting for seed, 
164; forcing, 631. 

Ranunculuses, planting, 844, 868, 878, 
936. 

KiUipberries, planting and paniing,3.54, 
359,369 ; summer pruning, 106, 414; 
Systematic Catalogue of, 510. 

Red beet, care of, 177. 

Reed walls, description of, 22. 

Relative constitution of stable manure, 
44. 

Remedies for the bleeding of vines, 661. 

Removal of the plants out of the green- 
house, 1059. 

Remo\ing green house plants into the 
house, 1070, 1072. 

Rennets (dessert), Systematic Cata 
logue of, 454. 

Rhubarb, forcing, 636. 

Ring, shoulder, or crown grafting, 370. 

Roofs of hot-houses, on the form of, 
52.5. 

Root grafting, 373. 
Roses, pruning, 910. 
Rotation of crops, 59. 
Runners, propagation of plants by, 1088. 
Russets (dessert), Systematic Catalogue 
o*-, 454. 

Rustic seats, on the construction of, 
809. 



Saddle grafting, .373. 

Sage, planting, 147. 

Salads to sow, 166, 205 ; forcing, 698. 

Salsafy, sowing, 101, 129, 1.59, 178; 

to lift and store, 250. 
Salt, as manure, 47. 

Saunder's (Mr.) method of keeping ice, 
266. 

Savoys, sowing, 85, 101, 128, 159 ; plant- 
ing out, 177, 195. 

Savory, sowing and planting, 1-18. 

Saw-dust, as manure, 4s. 

Scallop-budding, on, 519. 

Scarecrow for birds, figure rf a, 126. 

Scorzonera, sowing, 101, 125>, 159, 178, 
to lift and store, 2.50. 

Screen for the protection of fruit-trees 
description of, 388. 

Screw method of trainiiig, on the, 312, 



INDEX. 



1119 



Sea-kale, management of, 76 ; to cover 

up, 2oo ; sowing and planting, 143, 

168; blanching, 144; forcing, 640. 
Season of planting fruit-trees, 312. 
Seaweeds, excellence of, as manure 4.3. 
Seedling asparagus, to dress, 249. 
Seedling heaths, potting oft", 1070. 
Seedling perennial and biennial plante, 

transplanting of, 89.5, 922. 
Seed-potatoes, on choosing, 131. 
Seeds, gathering, 204. 
Select list of fruits, 513. 
Selecting trees for the fruit garden, and 

planting, 323. 
Setting out green house plants, 10G6. 
Shephard's (Mr.) method of forcing 

vines, o78. 
Shield-budding, on, 418. 
Shifting and repotting green-house 

plants, 1030, 1067. 
Shoulder or chink grafting, 373. 
Shrubbeiy, on the, 805. 
Shrubs and oruameutiil trees, planting, 

855, 873. 
Shrabs for forcing, preparing, 94L 
Side grafting, 373. 

Situation and soils for fruit-trees, 309 ; 
for the private orchard, 318. 

Skirret, sowing, 101, 129, 159; tolift 
and store, 250. 

Slips, propagation of plants by, 1087. 

Slugs, method of desrtoying, 149, 42^5. 

Small fruits, planting of, 440 ; cover- 
ing up, to retard, 432; preserving of, 
440. 

Small salading, sowing, 78, 121, 139, 
107, 181, 206, 213, 236, 250. 

Soils, nature and management of, 34. 

Soils for fi uit- trees, 309. 

Soot, as a manure, 46. 

Spinach, so\ying, 69, 92, 111, 135, 162 ; 
to dress, 253 ; for winter and spring 
use, 207. 

Sowing, American Cress, 12:3,212; Ba- 
sil, 118; beet, 91, 112, 135; bien- 
nial flower-seeds, 851, 863, 895; 
black Spanish radish, 213, borage, 
146, borecole, 128, 127; broccoli, 
99, 127, 155; Brussels sprouts, 103, 
128, 158; cabbages, 84, 100, 128, 
179 ; capsicums, 120, 136, 167; carra- 
wav and fennel, 146 ; cardoons, 16.), 
182; carrots, 63, 88, 116, 137, 198, 
83,97, 125, 151, 173; cauliflowers, 
126, 154, 207; celeriac, 105 ; celery, 
8S, 105, 162; chervil and coriander, 
118; coleworts, 203, 209 ; corn salad, 
12^5; dandelion, 12^3; endive, 168, 
gourds and pumpkins, 148; half- 
hardy annuals, 8 jO, 861, 877 ; ha-'dy 
annuals, 850, 861, 8:i7, K92 ; Indian 
cress or nasturtium, 118, 139; kid- 



ney beans, 113, 142, 169,186,200; 
leeks, 92, 1 13, 138 ; lettuce, 77, 121 ; 
love-apples, 120, 143 ; marigold 146; 
marjoram, 146 ; mignionette, for 
spring and winter use, 916 ; Nor- 
mandy cress, 122; onions, 76, 1 14, 
140, 198; parsley, 68, 91, 111, 190, 
212; parsneps, 93, 111,137; peas, 
64, 83, 97, 12.5, 181, 173, 190,239, 
252, 2.j8 ; perennial flower seeds, 
851, 863, 895; purslane, 119; ra- 
di hes, 78, 96, 117, 167, 181, 205, 
212, 250; salsafy, 101, 129, 159; 
savory, 148; savoys, 85, 101, 128, 
159; scorzonera, 101, 129, 169; 
sea-kale, 143, 160; skirret, 101, 

129, 159; small salading, 78, 121, 

130, 167, 181, 206; spinach, 69, 
92, 111, 13.5, 162; tarragon, 148; 
tender annuals, 849, 860, 876, 893 ; 
turnips, 103, 143, 167, 183, 20.3, 212; 
turnip-rooted radish, 205; water-cress, 
124; Welsh onions, 199; winter- 
cress, 124; winter spinach, 201. 

Spawn of mushrooms, procuration of, 
221. 

Spring dressing artichokes, 104, 138 ; 

asparagus, 107. 
Standard fruit-trees, pmning, 337 ; 

planting, 363. 
Steam, as applied in the heating of 

forcing- bouses, ,535. 
Stellate fan method of training, on the, 

341. 

Sticking peas, 98, 158. 
Stopping peas, 154. 

Strawberries, planting, 378, 400, 432, 
435; watering, 407, 412; forcing, 
609, 682 ; Systematic Catalogue of, 
504. 

Strawberry beds of VV. Atkinson, Esq., 

description of, 382. 
Succession pine plants, 573, 653, 687, 

699,718. 

Succession pine pits, construction of, 
573. 

Summer pnining currants, gooseberries, 

and raspberries, 406, 414. 
Sunk walls, description of, 22. 



Table of the difierent culinary vege- 
tables, with the time of sowing, plant- 
ing, &c., 301. 

Table, showing the quantity of seed 
necessary to sow iu any green space, 
298. 

Takingup bulbs past flowering, 898, 902. 
Tansy, planting, 147. 
Tarragon, planting, 148. 
Temperature of the green-house, 1001; 
1012, 1029, 1047, 1077. 



1120 



INDEX. 



'J'ender annual seeds, sowing, 8-19, 8f>0, 
893; nuuiagemeut of, '893, 902; 
pricking out, 8()0. 

Tender annual green-house plants, pro- 
pagation of, 104o, 1048 J manage- 
ment of, 10o9. 

Tender shrubs and plautss-, protecting, 
843, 946. 

Thinning the crops of winter lettuce, 94 ; 

of beet©, 163. 
Thinning wall-fruits, 403 ; ^tone-fruits, 

409. 

Thyme, sowing and planting, 147. 
Training apples and pears on walls and 

espaliers, 338. 
Training with upright shoots, on, 313. 
Training and supporting plants, 899, 

909. 

Transplanted onions, to clear, 161. 

Transplanting cabbages, 84 ; cauli- 
flowers, 98 ; celery, 137 ; celeriac, 
138; onions, 140; annuals sown in 
autumn, 862, carnations and i)ink«;, 
8.V3 ; flowering shrubs, 927 ; hardy 
ajul half-hardy annuals, 901; seed- 
ling biennial and perennial plants, 
89 j, 922, 927. 

Trees proper for the arboratuni, 810. 

Trees for the fruit-garden, selecting of, 
323. 

Treliising, on, .O.j3. 

Turnip fly, ])n>posed remedies for, 31 . 
Turnip-rooted radish, to sow, 20.-3. 
'lun.ips,sowing,103, 1 13, 167, 18.3,202, 
212. 

Turnip seed, to save, 2.03. 
Tulips, manai^ement of, 879 ; i)huiting, 
93o. 



Urine, as manure, 48. 



Variety and uses of manures, 12. 
Vegetable marrow, to grow, 166. 
Ventilating of the green h(>u>e, lOOo, 

1012, 1021), 1047, 10o9, 106o, 1069, 

1072, 1077. 
Ventilators, on, 519. 
Vertical mode of training with double 

stem, 343. 

Vines, care of 413, 421,433; forcing, 
576, 6.39, 693, 70.5 ; remedies for the 
bleeding of, 661 ; Mr. French's me- 
thod of forcing, 665 ; Systematic 
Catalogue of, 493. 



Vines on the open walls, pruning and 
training, 441 ; disbudding, 401. 

Walls, on, 15. 

Wall and espalier trees, general care of, 
437. 

Wall, espalier, and standard fruit-trees, 
planting, 363. 

WiiU-fruits, thinning, 403; final thin- 
ning of, 442. 

Wall-trees, watering, 415, 424. 

Wall-trees, general care of, 405, 421, 
426. 

Walks, on, 13. 

Water, on, 28. 

Watering crops of culinary vegetables, 
187; newly planted trees, 390; 
newly planted bushes, 400 ; and pro- 
tecting newlv planted trees, 378; wall- 
trees, ll.j, 121. 

Watering «>f the green-house, 1001, 
1012, 1029, 1047, 1059, 1069, 1072, 
1077. 

\\'ater-cress, sowing, 12 i ; general cul- 
tivation of, 181. 

Wavv fan method of training, on tlic, 
312. 

^^'«.•l^h onions, to sow, 199. 
Whip or tongue-grafting, 371. 
White and green beet, cultivation of, 
186. 

Williamson's (the Rev. Mr.) method of 

spawning melon beds, 231. 
^^'ilson (Mr. J«»hn'/, his method of, 

catching winged insects, 394. 
\N'inter-cress, sowing, 124. 
Winter crop of onions, 90, 181, 191, 

2.3(). 

Winter fruits, gathering and storing. 
137. 

^^■inter lettuce, thinning the crops of,94. 
^^'inter onions, laving down, 160; to 

sow, 208. 
Wiuter salads, care of, 2-56. 
Winter spinach, to sow, 201 ; to thin, 

217,218. 
Wooden walls, description of, 25. 



Young's (Mr.) method of keeping ice, 
2()5. 

Young orchard trees, digging the ground 
among, 44(). 

Young potatoes, Mr. Ashworth's me- 
thod of procuring, 625. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT 

OF THE 

STOVE DEPARTMENT. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The plant-stove is a department in horticulture, dedicated 
to the cultivation of such plants as are natives of tropical or 
warm climates, and which will not prosper in any of the 
other plant structures noticed in a former part of this work. 
The degree of temperature suitable for those plants which 
enter into this department is necessarily very high, varying 
from a minimum of 60, to 90 degrees or upwards, of Fahren- 
heit, as a maximum. 

Stoves are much less numerous in the British gardens than 
other plant structures, and consequently the management of 
them is generally much less understood. The expense at- 
tending them is the most probable cause of their limited 
number, and certainly not any want of interest or splendour in 
the plants or their flowers. To this division, in fact, belongs 
most of the splendid flowering, eccentric, and curious plants, 
and indeed those which supply us with some of our most 
valuable spices, vegetable medicines, oils, gums, and dyes ; 
including many which we are only acquainted with as far as 
their history is connected with the arts or sciences, or by 
particularities related of them by travellers. A portion of them 
supply a numerous part of mankind with food who are yet in 
a state of natural simplicity, and many of them constitute a 
considerable part of the importations of this country, and 
thence become beneficial, not only as a lucrative reward to the 
speculator, but also as diflTusing comfort and sustenance to a 
large portion of the community. Coffee, sugar, cocoa, sngo, 
and chocolate, may be enumerated, amongst many others, as 
constitutini^ a useful part of our daily food; and Jesuit's-bark, 
cimamon, ipecacuanha, balsam of capivi, cassia, and gum- 

♦ B 



2 THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 

arable, may be mentioned as valuable medicines ; as also 
Quassia Amara, the bitter of porter, so much used in the 
making of that liquor. Connected with the useful arts, we 
may notice lance-wood, mahogany, log-wood, cotton-tree, and 
Indian-rubber ; and, as vegetable curiosities, may be noticed 
the air-plants, arborescent ferns, and that most extraordinary 
of all parasitics, Rafflesia Arnoldi, discovered in 1818, in a 
jingle in Sumatra, by Dr. Arnold, and jointly named after him 
and the late Sir Stamford Raffles ; the following description 
of which is to be found in the Transactions of the Linnaean 
Society : — *' The plant consists of the flower only, having 
neither leaves, branches, nor roots; the flower is a yard 
across ; the petals, which are subrotund, being twelve inches 
from the base to the apex, and it being about a foot from the 
insertion of the one petal to the opposite one ; the petals are 
from a fourth to three-fourths of an inch thick, and the nec- 
tarium, it is supposed, would hold twelve pints. It appears 
to take its origin in some crack or hollow of the stem, and 
soon shows itself in the form of a round knob, which, when 
cut through, exhibits the infant flower, enveloped in numerous 
bracteal sheaths, which successively open and wither away as 
the flower enlarges." 

Stoves may be considered as of two kinds : the humid or 
bark-stove, and the succulent or dry-stove. In the former are 
cultivated all plants that require a moist, and at the same time 
a high temperature, while in the latter are cultivated those 
which can live long without water in a high temperature ; and 
these are for the most part succulent plants, as Cactus, Eu- 
phorbia, Aloe, Sec. 

CONSTRUCTION OF THE BARK-STOVE. 

In the construction of a stove-house, calculated for the cul- 
tivation of tropical plants, much depends upon the taste and 
object of the owner. Some cultivators prefer small plants, 
and limited or select collections, whilst others affect large spe- 
cimens and extensive collections. In the former case, a stove 
may be constructed to answer every purpose of the owner, 
differing little from that of the pine house in common use, but 



THE STOVE. 



s 



of course loftier ; and as the plants in a stove are, or ought to be, 
at all times seen to the gi-eatest advantage, they should stand on 
a bed in the middle of the house, having a passage sufficiently 
broad all round it. The accompanying plates represent the 
elevation and ground-plan of one of the plant-stoves at Clare- 
mont, the country-seat of H. R. H. Prince Leopold of Saxe- 
Cobourg Saalfeld, in which are cultivated plants which do not 
attain a great size, or such as it is desirable to have in flower 
while in a young state. Such also are the stoves at Bury-Hill 
and Bayswater, in which tropical plants have long been suc- 
cessfully cultivated by their respective superintendents. In 
those cases where the fancy of the proprietor leads him to 
have large specimens of the more lofty growing kinds of plants, 
such as palms, Musas, Sec, houses of more capacious dimen- 
sions are required ; and on that head we may refer to the large 
palm-stove of Messrs. Loddige, or the still more magnificent 
tropical-house of Mrs. Beaumont, at Britton-Hall in York- 
Bhire. The interior of the former is one of the greatest treats 
the lover of plants can be indulged with in the vicinity of 
London, and reflects the greatest credit on the very spirited 
proprietors. The exterior, however, is deficient in taste and 
elegance. The latter is an immense dome, and possesses all 
that degree of elegance for which such houses are supposed to 
be so eminently distinguished. The plants which enter into 
such houses, are so exceedingly rapid in their growth, and attain 
so enormous a bulk, that no house hitherto built in this country 
has been found sufficiently large for them, in which they can 
develope their true characters. Plant-stoves require the highest 
degree of temperature of all other horticultural erections, and 
consequently many opinions have been pronounced on the 
means of producing ^lat temperature upon the best and most 
economical principle. Steam-pipes, in conjunction with flues, 
and sometimes by themselves, have been tried, and steam has 
been applied under the bed upon which the plants stand ; 
which, by passing through a stratum of coal-ashes, tan, or 
similar matter, heated the atmosphere of the house, while at 
the same time it rendered the bed upon which the plants either 
stood on, or were plunged in, sufficiently warm. Formerly, as a 
greater degree of bottom-hcat was used in the cultivation of tro- 



4 



THE IKACIICAL (.AKULNER. 



pica! plants thaii is now used for the cultivation of pines, we then 
found the pots plunged into beds of fermenting tanners' bark ; 
but latterly, however, this method is almost abandoned, and 
we find stove-plants now almost universally cultivated without 
much bottom-heat, at least with no more than they receive 
from the atmosphere of the house. A bed of prepared coal- 
ashes, rendered perfectly porous beneath, to admit of all su- 
perfluous water passing off, is now used, on which the plants 
are set ; and it is only in particular cases that we now find 
them plunged in a bottom-heat. 

Upon this subject, Mr. Sweet, a botanical cultivator of the 
first eminence, offers the following remarks: — Some hot 
dung or tan may be still kept in the pit to throw up a little 
warmth, on which should be put a good thickness of sand or 
gravel for the pots to stand on, and the plants will thrive much 
better than if plunged in tan : it is also coming nearer to 
nature, which should be always studied in the cultivation of 
plants, both in soil and situation. In tropical countries it is 
the sun that heats the earth in which the plants grow, not the 
earth that heats the air ; and the heat must be kept up in the 
stoves accordingly. If the house be heated by steam, no tan 
is required. The plants may be set on stages, or any way 
that is most convenient. Some of them may be planted out 
in the house, where they will grow in great perfection, and 
flower and ripen fruit; but if grown in large pots, they will 
answer quite as well." 

In the construction of plant-stoves, it may be necessary to 
notice, that fewer openings for the admission of air are required 
than in any of the other plant-houses, for this reason, that the 
degree of heat, which must be always kept up within the 
enclosed atmosphere, is so much gTeater than that of the o])cn 
air, that the difference of the specific gravity of the two fluids, 
when permitted to mingle by opening two or three sashes, 
produces a more active circulation, and sooner approaches to 
an equilibrium of temperature ; and, however numerous the 
openings in the roof or sides of such houses may be, they can 
seldom be made use of without reducing the house to too low 
a temperature ; and as the plants are for the most part kept in 
pots, and many of them being of slow growth, they are not 



THE STOVE. 



5 



so apt to etiolate, or become drawn up slender, as those in 
the green-house or conservatory. 

As there are many of the tropical plants in general cultiva- 
tion that are climbers, and amongst them some of exceedingly 
great beauty, it is necessary that they be accommodated with 
proper means of supporting themselves. The most usual 
means are training them up the rafters, and some houses are fur- 
nished with wire trellises, as is the case with the house w^e have 
adopted for our plate. These trellises may be so arranged as 
to add considerably to the beauty of the house, when properly 
covered with plants, and so disposed as to form arches over 
the footpaths, and, occasionally, from one of the pillars which 
may support the roof of the house to another. However, too 
much scope should not be given to climbing-plants, however 
beautiful they may be, for, if carried to an extreme, it would 
occasion too much shade for the plants which occupy the middle 
of the house. The bed on which the plants are intended to 
stand, should be surrounded by a neat parapet wall, only a 
few inches higher than the surface on which the plants are to 
stand, serving to divide the bed from the walk or footpath, 
which should, as has been already observed, be made to sur- 
round the whole. If the house be to be heated by smoke-flues, 
they should be placed between the footpath and the walls of 
the house, so that any scorching heat may be prevented, as 
much as possible, from coming in too close contact with the 
foliage ; a circumstance which often happens, and cannot be 
too securely guarded against. The house, of which our draw- 
ing is a representation, has two fires, which for its size are 
found sufficient. One of the flues enters at one end, and 
having passed along the front and ends, discharges its smoke 
in the back wall at the end farthest from the furnace. The 
other flue enters at the other end of the house, and makes 
three returns along the back wall, and discharges its smoke 
at the end farthest from its furnace. Spaces are left about a 
foot high between each flue, and they are all separated from 
the back wall by a vacuity of two inches, so as to present as 
much surface as possible for the escape of the heat. Upon the 
top of the third back flue, succulent plants are placed, and over 
the front one is placed a neat trellis, on which such plants are 



6 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



placed that are not liable to be injured by the heated air. Often 
in winter, when the fires are kept up very strong, and powerful 
steaming resorted to, in order to counteract the effects of strong 
fire-heat, these plants are removed for a considerable distance 
fi-om the end where the heat enters, and are disposed of in 
other parts of the house. The front parapet is found a con- 
venient situation for placing small or handsome specimens while 
in flower, as they are there seen to greater advantage than 
when mixed in the general collection. In regard to plant- 
stoves heated by hot water, the pipes may either be placed 
exactly as the flues above described, as they occupy little space, 
or they may be placed under the footpaths, and covered with 
a neat ornamental grating of cast-iron. In placing hot water 
pipes under the foot-patlis, accommodation can better be found 
for the reservoirs, than if placed above the floor-level. We 
have repeatedly expressed our opinion favorably to the hot- 
water system, and for the culture of stove-plants consider it of 
the utmost importance. In the cultivation of tropical plants, 
it does not often occur that they are planted out in the con- 
servatory manner, as the rapidity of their growth, and the 
great size to which many of them attain, render this mode of 
culture unnecessary. The larger growing species are much better 
cultivated in large pots or tubs, and in these, specimens may 
be grown to a height sufficient for any house which has been 
yet erected in this country. The climbing species may, how- 
ever, be planted out, as from their habits they can always be 
kept within due bounds by the pruning-knife, and seldom 
succeed well if not in very large pots, which may not be always 
conveniently disposed of in situations where they should stand. 
Although the majority of stove-plants are better cultivated in 
pots or tubs, than when planted out, it must be still acknow- 
ledged that the pots have not always the most agreeable ap- 
pearance. In order to remedy this defect, without plunging 
them in the bed, which we would not advise, unless in cases 
of the most robust growing kinds, whose roots can sustain no 
injury by this mode of treatment, we would suggest the idea 
of covering them with moss, which may be always kept fresh 
by occasionally renewing it ; but even this is not often neces- 
sary, as the humidity which a v.cll-manaocd bark or moist 



THE STOVE. 



7 



stove attains by daily watering, will be suitable to several species 
of that class of plants. Almost all mosses fit lor this purpose 
prefer a damp shady situation ; and it is surprising to see how 
luxuriantly some of them, that are natives of the regions of 
almost perpetual snow, will flourish in a moist stove, where 
the temperature is seldom below 60 degrees. Towards the 
front, where the sun has most influence, various species of 
Cenomyce, particularly C. rangiferina, will retain its natural 
colour for a long time, and form a beautiful contrast with the 
darker hues of those that are behind. Stove-plants require a 
great portion of water, and during winter much trouble and 
inconvenience will be occasioned, if provision be not made for 
having a supply of that indispensable element conveniently at 
hand ; and as the water with which they are at all times to be 
supplied should be nearly equal to the minimum temperature 
of the house, a cistern should be so contrived as to have in 
it at all times an abundant supply. The most eligible situation 
for such a cistern, we presume, is over the furnace, in the 
shed behind, which should be supplied by a pipe from the 
reservoirs appended to the garden. Cisterns for this pur- 
pose may be of lead or cast-iron, as being always supplied 
with water accordingly as it is drawn off for use, cannot be 
injured if they be made of either material. A pipe with a 
stop-cock should be introduced from the cistern into the house, 
so that the cultivator may be supplied with the greater 
convenience ; and as the fires are seldom extinguished during 
cold weather, a sufficient supply of warm water can be always 
readily obtained. 



CONSTRUCTION OF THE DRY-STOVE. 

In the construction of the dry stove, it is not essentially 
necessary that it be different from that which has been already 
described for the cultivation of moist-stove plants, further than 
that, instead of the bed on which the plants are placed in the 
latter, a stage be substituted in the former for their reception. 
The plants which form the great bulk of dry-stove collections 
are succulents, and many of them exceedingly slow in growth, 
some not attaining a greater height in a century than that of 
many moist-stove plants in the period of a month. Being 



8 



TIIF PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



placed on stages, their characters are better exhibited to the 
spectator then if placed on a flat surface. It is not in cha- 
racter with the inhabitants of this structure to have creepers 
trained upon the rafters, for plants of so very opposite habits 
do not associate well together ; and besides having an inhar- 
monious effect, they produce another, which is injurious to 
their welfare. All tropical succulent plants are found natu- 
rally exposed to the full influence of the sun, and when im- 
'portcd into our northern latitudes,'require all the sun-shine 
which we can admit to them, and this can never be fully 
ulmitted, if the foliage of creepers be allowed to intervene 
between them and the light. 

The great merits, generally considered, of dry-stove plants 
are their eccentricity of forms, although some of them, par- 
ticularly the Cactus genus, produce flowers, one of which, 
C. speciosissima, baffles the ingenuity of the most expert 
artist to imitate it, in respect to delicacy and richness of co- 
louring. Many others are splendid while in bloom, but, for 
the most part, are very fugacious, seldom lasting many hours 
in perfection. The C. Grandijiorus, of which the annexed 
figure is an excellent reduced representation, has long been an 
inmate of our stoves and attracted notoriety, in consequence of 
its flowering during the night, and hence its English name, 
Night-flower of Cerrus or Cactus. The flower of this curi- 
ous species begins to expand its bloom about eight o'clock in 
the evening, and is in perfection from ten to twelve, but, be- 
fore day-light next morning, is fled for ever. The finest 
collection of this division of plants in this country is in the 
Royal Botanic Garden at Kew, where a large house is dedi- 
cated for their reception, and the mode in which they are 
cultivated reflects great credit on Mr. Bigby, the curator, who, 
for many years, has paid more than ordinary attention to 
their cultivation. There are, however, many plants that are 
correctly dry-stove plants, which are not of the succulent 
sorts, consisting of climbing, bulbous, herbaceous, and woody 
plants. In order to cultivate a complete collection of these 
plants in the first degree of excellence, it is necessary to have 
a separate division for each section, but this is seldom ob- 
served in practice ; the majority of cultivators being content 
with two general houses, one especially for bark-stove plants. 



THE STOVE. 



9 



and the other for dry-stove plants ; consequently, part of both 
divisions are not at all times properly treated, unless the culti- 
vator be at much trouble in altering the mode of culture of 
certain species to suit existing circumstances. Dry-stove 
plants generally require an intermediate temperature between 
the green-house and bark-stove, and a much drier atmosphere 
than either, particularly the latter : they require always a great 
degree of light, and should consequently be kept near to the 
glass. Those which are succulents, require very little water, 
particularly during winter, and in all cases more harm may be 
expected from a too free application of that element, than an 
almost entire want of it. 



STOVE AQUARIUM. 

The great bulk of cultivated aquatics are either hardy, and 
capable of being cultivated in the open air, or they are so 
tender as to require the same temperature as stove or tropical 
plants. There are fewer examples of this kind of plant struc- 
tures in this country, than of the other descriptions of houses 
already noticed, not but that they are very interesting in their 
way, and many of the plants which might be cultivated in 
them are extremely curious, beautiful, and interesting. The 
genus Nymphcea is exceedingly beautiful, and those oi Euryale, 
Nelumhium^ and many others, extremely curious, and that of 
Oryza and Papyrus highly interesting ; the former being the 
rice of commerce, and the latter the well-known impyrus of 
the ancients, the plant which furnished the materials on which 
the most ancient of all records were written, and to which we 
are indebted for our knowledge of events coeval with the 
great Jewish legislator. As examples of Tropical Aquariums, 
we may refer to those in the • gardens of the Duke of Marl- 
borough at White Knights, in which were cultivated for a 
considerable time a rich collection of these plants, but which, 
from causes of a private nature, is now discontinued. One 
of these houses may be described as being a span-roofed house, 
having the sides and ends also of glass as low as the top of 
the flues. Instead of the bed, or stage, in the other stoves, 
a large cistern is here substituted, having a walk round it. 

*c 



10 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



In this cistern are cultivated the p'oper plants, some rooting 
in muddy rich soil placed on purpose in the bottom ; others 
floating on the surface, which, like the genus Lemnay may be 
said to have no settled place of abode. A flue goes round 
underneath the bottom of the cistern, in order to keep the 
water of a certain temperature; while another flue goes round 
the house, for the purpose of heating the atmosphere of it : 
the bottom of the cistern in question is of slate, supported on 
iron bearers, over which is a covering of lead. Wood might 
have been used, had no fear of danger from the heat of the 
flues been apprehended. In a house of this description, the 
tallest gi'owing aquatic plants might be exceedingly well culti- 
vated ; but for those of diminutive growth, and such as float 
only on the surface of the water, such as Nymphcca^ &c., a 
house much less lofty, or indeed a neat pit would answer 
much better, for experience proves, that such plants require 
all the light and sun that it is possible to give them, and 
which can never be so completely effected if they be placed 
too far from the glass. Mr. Loudon, in The Encyclopedia 
of Gardenitig^ proposes the following improvements in re- 
gard to Tropical Aquariums : — A more perfect plan would 
be (alluding to the house at White Knights) to have the 
cistern close to the front glass, and to have that glass rather 
flat, say an angle of 15 dcgi'ees ; or two cisterns might be 
formed, one in the back part of the house for tall plants, and 
the other in front for floating foliage, with a broad path be- 
tween. But the most elegant plan would be," continues that 
intelligent writer, " to have a circular house, glass on all sides, 
to have a cistern in the centi'e for river plants, and a surround- 
ing cistern for those which grow in stagnant water. To 
imitate the effect of the motion of water, in the central cis- 
tern, the mould, or pots in which the plants grow, might be 
placed on a bottom apart from that of the cistern, and this 
bottom being on the end of an upright shaft might, by the aid 
of proper machinery, in a vault below, be kept in perpetual 
circular motion. Those plants, which grow naturally in rapid 
streams, might be planted or placed on the circumference of 
the bottom, and those requiring less agitation towards its 
centre. If reversed motion were required to imitate tides, 



THE STOVE. 



11 



(where marine aquatics were cultivated,) nothing could be 
easier than by the sort of wheel used in the patent mangle to 
produce it to any extent ; or, by another still more simple 
plan, known to every engineer, it might be changed seldomer, 
say only once or twice in twenty-four hours. If a rapid and 
tortuous motion were required, then let the bottom on which 
the plants are placed be furnished with small circular wheels 
placed on its margin, working on pivots, and furnished on their 
edges with teeth like a spur-wheel. Then let there be a cor- 
responding row of teeth fixed to the inside of the wall, or 
side of the cistern, into which they are to work like a wheel 
and pinion. 

" By this means, pots of plants, set on the small wheels, will 
have a compound motion ; one round the centre of the small 
wheels, and another round that of the large bottom. It may 
be thought by some, that the machinery would be intricate 
and ti'oublesome, but the power requisite is so very small, that 
it might easily be obtained by machinery on the principle of 
the wind-up jack, such as was used by Deacon in his venti- 
lating i^lolians. This kind of machinery very seldom goes 
out of order, or requires repair, and no other attention would 
be necessary than being wound up twice in twenty-four hours, 
and oiled occasionally. The same vault that contained it 
might serve for the furnace or boiler," if heated by steam. 



PROPAGATION OF TROPICAL PLANTS. 

Propagation is the first principle which should be acted 
upon in the formation of a collection of plants, and a strict 
attention to it annually is no less important after the collection 
is established, for the lives of plants are as uncertain as those 
of animals ; and unless attention be paid to keeping up the 
stock by repeated propagation, many of the short-lived species 
will soon be lost. To keep up a collection in the first degree 
of excellence, it is necessary that a certain number of each 
species be annually propagated, as many of them become un- 
sightly when old, and by increasing in size preclude the pos- 
sibility of keeping so many individually. Some tropical 
plants, however, do not flower until they attain a considerable 



\2 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



size and certain age; but this is not generally the case, the 
majority will flower finer, and look much better, when about 
two or three years old than when kept longer. Small plants 
are more conveniently kept than large ones, and, by having a 
young stock always in readiness, there is little chance of 
losing any of the species. 

Stove-plants, like most other plants, are propagated by a 
variety of methods, but are more often originated by seeds 
and cuttings than by any other. Few of them ripen their 
seeds in this country, but there is no difficulty in obtaining 
them from abroad, as the intercourse between this country and 
the East and West Indies, the Cape of Good Hope, and the 
islands in the South Seas, is so frequent. Many seeds intro- 
duced lose their vegetative principle from a variety of causes, 
and hence the frequent disappointments which occur to the 
cultivator. When seeds are not thoroughly ripened before they 
arc gathered, or when they are packed up before properly 
dried, or when they are injured by the effects of moisture 
tluring the voyage, may be considered as some of the causes. 
To remedy these defects has occupied the attention of several 
eminent botanists ; but the conclusions that they have hitherto 
drawn, do not appear to be completely satisfactory. Un- 
ripe seeds seldom germinate, because their parts are not yet 
prepared to form the chemical combinations on which germi- 
nation depends. Some seeds retain their vegetative properties 
for many years, while others even commence vegetating before 
they quit the very seed-vessel ; and, in the case of some fruits, 
it occurs even before the fruit is ripe, and while yet attached 
to the parent plant. Some others, if guarded from the effects 
of external air, will retain their living principle, from forty to 
probably one hundred years. Seeds of oats have been ascer- 
tained to have remained during the former period in a sound 
state, and have freely vegetated when the gi'ound on which 
they were deposited was ploughed up. From the experiments 
of Ray and others, w^e learn that seeds will not vegetate if 
placed in a vacuum, but that the same seeds will grow when 
air is again admitted to them. 

The enterprising Baron Humboldt found that the process 
of vegetation was accelerated by steeping seeds in water im- 



THE STOVE. 



13 



pregnated with oxymuriatic acid, and this has been tried in 
the Clapton Nursery, in regard to accelerating the vegetation 
of the seeds of Banksiasy and other New Holland seeds, that 
do not vegetate freely. There are other gases which have a 
different effect, namely, nitrogen gas, carbonic acid gas, and 
hydrogen gas, which, according the experiments of Archard, 
prevent the germination of seeds, unless mixed with a cer- 
tain proportion of oxygen gas, which led him to conclude 
that the latter gas is necessary to the vegetation of seeds, and 
the only constituent part of the atmospheric air which is abso- 
lutely necessary for that process. 

No seed will germinate at or below the freezing point, 
although placed in their proper soil, and hence seeds do not 
spring during winter. Heat and moisture are the principal 
agents for producing this effect, and whenever these are sup- 
plied, as a consequence, atmospheric air accompanies them. 

As there is much difficulty in procuring seeds of some 
species from India in a state fit for vegetation, no time 
should be therefore lost in sowing them upon their arrival. 
The late Gushing, in regard to the season for sowing tro- 
pical seeds, observes, " As the spring is undoubtedly the best 
time for sowing, a few weeks delay may, in some instances, 
be advisable. If received late in October or November, 
wait till January, or perhaps February, unless it evidently 
appears that they will not keep out of the earth so long a 
time in a vegetative state. Those which can be sown before 
August, have a good chance to acquire sufficient strength of 
growth to carry them through the winter-months, so adverse 
to the general efforts of young vegetable life." On preparing 
the pots, mould, &c., and sowing the seeds, the same author 
continues : — " The pots being well drained, should be filled 
with the compost suitable to the species of plant of which the 
seed intended to be sown has been produced : let it be pressed 
down to about a third, or half an inch, below the rim, accord- 
ing to the size of the seeds ; if they be small or light sorts, 
it will be necessary to press it pretty tight, and to add a little 
very fine sifted mould, on which to deposit the seeds, previously 
smoothing it. with a bit of thin flat wood, bent so as to lie on 
it level. Being thus prepared, let the seed be sown regularly 



14 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



on the surface, and cover it from about an eighth to a quarter 
of an inch, according to the size of tlie seed, as before, with 
the same sort of fine mould. But, if the seeds be of the 
largest sorts, as, for instance, the nut or stone kind, no more 
is necessary than to press them into the earth with the finger, 
and to cover somewhat thicker than is recommended for the 
others. In either case, the covering should be pressed mode- 
rately on the seed with the hand, which is indeed a most 
necessary caution in sowing seeds of any description whatever. 
In order to insure the vegetation of hard or very tough shelled 
seeds, some have them soaked in water for a few days, say a 
week, or even ten days, for those which happen to be very 
dry, previously to sowing : a shallow pan, placed on the 
coolest part of the flue in the propagating-house, is the readiest 
and safest article to receive them for this purpose ; they should 
be examined daily, and sown the moment any swelling or 
growth appears ; this process, however, is fraught with danger 
to many of the lighter and smaller sorts. The sowing being 
finished, the pots must be set on a level spot, and gently, but 
thoroughly watered ^ith a pot ; the rose of which has been 
made particularly fine, for this and other such uses, and im- 
mediately plunged into a strong heat, without which, they will 
not be likely to vegetate : if a close dung hot-bed the better. 
A regular but moderate watering, steady heat, and occasional 
weeding, should any weeds appear, is all that they will now 
require till they be fit to be removed into separate pots ; which 
may be done as soon as they have attained a few inches growth 
above their colyledons, or seed-leaves. There are some fruits, 
such as Nelumbium^ whose exterior coat is so very hard, that 
the embryo plants are not able to burst through, at least with 
us; to remedy which, the knife is not unfrequently used to 
pare them thin, even to making a hole in them, but not 
too near the eye or part where they sprout. If the business 
of seed sowing be performed in spring, or early in summer, 
the smaller sorts may be expected to vegetate in the course of 
five or six weeks at farthest ; whereas the larger bony kinds will 
sometimes remain dormant in the earth for the space perhaps of 
twelve months; this must be attended to, else one might think 
them beyond the chance of growing, and perhaps throw them 



THE STOVE. 



15 



away without examination. Whenever there is any doubt of 
their vegetating, let some of them be taken up, and opened 
with a knife ; when they will at once discover whether they be 
sound or not ; if sound, they must be still kept in a strong 
heat, and regularly watered as before ; for want of this simple 
precaution valuable seeds are often carelessly thrown on the 
rubbish-heap, when just bursting their shell or embryo ; and 
not unfrequently, by that accidental check, are so materially 
injured as to prevent more than one half of them vegetating 
again, if they have been at all so fortunate as to be noticed 
and resowed." 

Sweet, writing on the same subject, observes, " When seeds 
are received from abroad, some of them should be sown im- 
mediately, whatever season it may be ; for sometimes seeds 
will grow when first received, which will not if kept some 
months longer: but the general time of sowing should be 
early in spring, that the plants may get strong before winter.' 
A gentle hot-bed is best for bringing up most of the tropical 
kinds, but some few will come up better on a shelf, or a flue 
of the hot-house. The sooner seedlings are potted off the 
better, as they do not miss their moving when potted off very 
young ; but seedlings arfe not so hardy, nor so easily pre- 
served, as plants raised from cuttings, and seldom make so 
good plants; from cuttings they have stronger roots, and a 
greater number of them." 

PROPAGATING TROPICAL PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 

The propagation of tropical plants, by cuttings, is by far 
more generally adopted than rearing them from seeds. As we 
have already observed, seeds of such plants are not often per- 
fected in our stoves, but cuttings can always be had in plenty 
from plants that are properly treated, excepting from those 
which do not produce shoots fit for the purpose ; but even 
most of those are capable of being increased by other means, 
which will be noticed in the sequel. The season best calcu- 
lated for commencing the operation of increasing by cuttings, 
depends more on the state of the plants intended to be ope- 
rated upon, than upon any particular day, week, or month. It 



16 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



may generally, however, be considered a rule to begin early 
in the year, that the cuttings may be rooted, and fit to pot off by 
April or May, by which means they will be fully established 
in the pots to stand the hot suns of June, July, and August, 
during which three months they will make rapid progress, and 
will, by the end of October, be, if properly treated, handsome 
plants. 

In regard to the season of commencing propagating tro- 
pical plants, by our own practice it is to begin in February, 
and even in some cases in January, and finish by the end of 
March ; and for this purpose we use a close pit, and often a 
garden or cucumber frame, wherein a brisk heat is constantly 
and uniformly kept up from the time the cutting-pots are 
plunged in it till the whole have rooted, and are fit to pot off. 
After which they are removed to a nursing-pit, and kept grow- 
ing by being kept moist, and never below 70 degrees of heat, 
if possible. 

The Author of the Botanical Cultivator gives the following 
as his practice, which has been very extensive as a commer- 
cial grower : — " For the propagating of stove-plants a small 
house should be appropriated; a north-eastern aspect is 
preferable to any other, so as to have the morning sun, and 
none afterwards : they then want no artificial shading ; for the 
less sun cuttings have before they are rooted, and the more 
light, the better. A pit might be made in the house, and one 
part of it filled with fresh tan, another part with rotten tan, 
and a third part with mould. In the fresh tan might be 
plunged, under hand-glasses or bell-glasses, any cuttings of 
plants requiring heat: in the rotten tan, under bell-glasses, 
any kinds not requiring heat ; and in the mould, under hand- 
glasses, large cuttings of green-house plants," as we have 
already noticed, " which require no heat. Cuttings, parti- 
cularly of hard woody plants, root best in fine sand, and are 
safer to pot oflf after being rooted, as the sand shakes clean 
from their roots without injuring them. When planted in 
mould, the roots are apt to break off in parting them : but 
some of the herbaceous or soft-wooded kinds will not root 
well in sand, and must therefore be planted in mould. Cut- 
tings must be put in when the wood is fit Some kinds root 



THE STOVE. 



17 



freely in either young or ripened wood ; other kinds will only 
strike in very young wood, and others only in ripened wood. 
From Christmas till April may be considered as good a time 
as any to put in most kinds of cuttings, as they root more freely, 
before the weather gets too warm; but some kind or other 
require to be put in every week throughout the year. No 
leaves should be taken off or shortened, except on the part 
that is buried in the ground, when the closer to the stem 
they are taken off the better. The more leaves a cutting has 
on it, the sooner it will root, though most propagators trim 
up their cuttings like a parcel of naked sticks, which is the 
very cause of their not succeeding. The shallower cuttings 
are put in the pots, they better they root, if they be but well 
fastened : if planted deep they are more likely to rot, or damp 
off; the sand or mould in which they are planted must be 
kept moist, but not too wet, and the glasses must be wiped 
occasionally ; for too much moisture on them will make the 
cuttings turn mouldy, and rot off, even after they are rooted. 
When the young plants are rooted, the sooner they are potted 
off the better, in as small pots as they can be safely got into ; 
for if too long in the cutting-pots, the sand is apt to injure 
their roots. When they are first potted off, they should be 
kept under a close glass for a few days, or in a frame on a 
gentle hot-bed, and shaded from the sun with a mat till they 
have taken fresh root : then harden them to the air by degrees. 
When the young plants are drawn up too slender, their tops 
should be pinched off, which will make them gi'ow bushy. It 
is always best to top plants while young, if wanted to grow 
neat ; if let run up high, the knife must be used, which causes 
d wound that sometimes is unsightly. No leaves should be 
taken off any plants except decayed ones, for it weakens them 
very much. Taking off a large leaf from a young plant will 
generally kill it; a circumstance that few cultivators are ac- 
quainted with." 

Gushing, who was long a propagator in the Hammersmith 
nursery, has left us the following directions, which, although 
something lengthened, yet as it is different from our own prac- 
tice, and also from that of the author last quoted, we will avail 
ourselves of the following extracts from his Exotic Gardener : 



IS 



TilE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



" The cuttings may be made almost every season of the year, 
yet the months of April, May, and June, are certainly the 
most proper, as the plants are at that season plentifully sup- 
plied with young wood, which, in most species, produce roots, 
when made into cuttings, much sooner than the old wood will 
if used in the same manner." After detailing the manner in 
which the pots should be prepared for the reception of the 
cuttings, which is not different from what we have already no- 
ticed in treating of green-house plants, he proceeds : " On 
the purity and clearness of the loam depends, in a great mea- 
sure, the success of many of the tenderer kinds of cuttings, 
particularly those that are obliged to be kept in a moist heat, 
as it is, when contaminated with other composts, very liable 
in these situations to cause damp and rottenness by the par- 
ticles of putrifying matter generally contained in mixed earths, 
and the properties of which are put in motion by the applica- 
tion of heat. As an exception to this rule, may be adduced 
sand, which is of great utility to mix with loam, should it 
happen to be rather stiff, for the nature of the cuttings ; but 
then the sand proper for this use is of so pure a nature in 
itself, that it is evident it cannot have the effect noticed 
above in regard to mixed soils." In regard to the choice of 
cuttings, the following observations are also in some degree 
different fi'om that which we have already noticed. In select- 
ing cuttings, the same author observes, preference should be 
given to the firmest wood, of the same year's growth ; and of 
these, only such whose leaves have attained their full size and 
proper colour, whicii are generally to be selected from the 
lateral shoots, as the upright leading shoots are mostly too 
luxuriant to make good cuttings. The cuttings of many plants, 
if taken from the lateral shoots, never become proper erect 
stems, but are inclined at all times to form an irregular, bushy, 
weak head : this is but of small importance to those collectors 
who cultivate plants merely for the flower, as such heads gene- 
rally produce them sooner than luxuriant leaders. The lovers 
of handsome erect plants, however, choose their cuttings from 
the upright shoots early in the season, before they acquire that 
luxuriance of growth so unfit for the purposes of propagation. 
The tops of the shoots are to be preferred, unless they happen 



THE STOVE. 



19 



to flag before used. To prepare them for insertion, most ot 
the leaves must be trimmed off close to the stem, leaving only 
a few at the top, to allow a free respiration of air, so neces- 
sary to the life of the plant. This is a most essential article 
in the art of making cuttings, particularly those of evergreens ; 
for if they be deprived entirely of their leaves, or that they 
otherwise flag, or occasionally fall off soon after they are put 
in, there will be little or no chance of their growing. The 
reason is obvious, because the inherent sap of the cutting being 
deprived of these organs of respiration that keep it in motion, 
and the cutting having no roots, by the efforts of which to pro- 
duce new leaves, the sap consequently becomes stagnated in 
the pores of the wood ; which, like the stagnation of the blood 
in animals, will, in all likelihood, prove mortal, by occasioning 
an immediate mortification." In preparing the cuttings, and 
inserting them, he observes : "In shortening each cutting to 
the most convenient length, care must be taken to do it with 
a clean cut, in a transverse direction, at a joint, and by no 
means should they be left exposed, or to lie any considerable time 
before planting. In planting, a small dibble, or other conve- 
nient instrument, should be used to press the loam sufficiently 
tight to the base of the cutting, as that is the principal part to 
be made fast. As soon as the whole are inserted, and the 
surface of the mould made level, and a little firm, give them 
a gentle watering to settle them ; they should be left to soak 
about a quarter of an hour, and then covered with a bell-glass, 
which should be pressed pretty tight, so as perfectly to exclude 
the outward air. The atmospheric air being prevented by the 
glass from exhaling any of the juices of the plant, all its powers 
are forced downwards to produce roots, and these will soon 
prove their existence by producing young leaves and branches. 
If there be several cuttings of the same sort, they may be all 
put in one pot, unless they happen to be very large or curious 
sorts ; but, in general, each species should be kept in a separate 
one, on account of the difference of time that some of them 
require to strike roots, and also that any scarce or valuable 
kind should be put only one in a small pot, as they are then 
not liable to be injured so much by damp, neither do they 



20 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



require to go through the precarious operation of separate 
potting so soon after being struck. Should it be requisite to 
have a considerable number of cuttings made at the same time, 
it would be proper to have a one-light frame with close sashes, 
placed on a moderate hot-bed ready to receive them. It should 
be covered with saw-dust or clean tan, about a foot deep, in 
which to plunge the pots ; but if there be only a few done, 
they may be plunged in any frame, amongst other things, pro- 
vided there be a moderate heat." Many stove-plants strike so 
readily, that some cultivators put up a small hot-bed on pur- 
pose, which may be of the size of one or more lights, according 
to the number intended to be propagated ; when this bed has 
come to a proper temperature, it is earthed over to the depth 
of a foot or fourteen inches, with the mould most congenial to 
the majority of the plants to be propagated. In this mould 
the cuttings are inserted pretty close together, and there they 
remain until rooted, when they are taken up and potted off in 
the usual manner. The principal feature of this method is, 
that the bed resembles what we may call one large pot, into 
which the cuttings are placed, the frame and lights being per- 
fectly tight, act, as it were, in the place of a corresponding 
large bell or hand-glass ; very little air is consequently given 
while the cuttings remain without root, but as these are formed, 
air is admitted gradually to them. All the while damp must 
be carefully guarded against, and all appearance of it removed 
when it occurs. 

Dry-stove plants are propagated in the same manner, with 
the exception of such as are succulent. In regard to them, 
the cuttings or pieces of the branches should always have their 
top left uninjured, and none of the leaves removed where they 
exist, excepting such as would be inserted under the mould : 
such only should be removed, and that carefully, so as not to 
lacerate or wound the stem of the cutting. When the cut- 
ting is removed from the parent-plant, it should be laid by to 
dry for some days, more or less, according to its succulency ; 
for if planted immediately after being separated from the plant, 
they would be apt to rot or damp off'. Some species of these 
plants may, however, be j^lanted as soon as taken off, but by 



THE STOVE. 



21 



far the greater part will require this precaution, and may in 
some cases remain unplanted for a week or more. Those of 
this division of plants that make no side- shoots, like many of 
the AloeSi and some other genera, generally send up suckers 
from the roots, these should be taken off carefully, and when 
dried a day or two, planted at once into pots corresponding 
to them in size, &c. ; others send out offsets fi'om their trunk 
or branches, which should be gently rubbed off, and treated 
like suckers; some of them are, however, so short, as to admit 
of no part being inserted in the ground ; but such is the fa- 
cihty with which most of such plants reproduce themselves, 
that if they be only laid on the surface of the mould, and 
slightly fastened down, so as to prevent them falling off, they 
will emit roots, and soon fix themselves in the mould. 

In regard to the management of tropical cuttings, while 
forming their roots, much attention is required. A steady 
brisk heat must be kept up, and attention paid to shading, 
watering, &c. On this part of their culture, Gushing makes 
the following observation : — " They will now require the most 
particular attention as to watering and shading. The water 
must be given twice or thrice, very moderately, until the earth 
becomes sufficiently moist, which, if once so, will retain the 
moisture for a length of time by being covered with the glass ; 
but the shading is the principal care, whenever the sun's rays 
fall on the glasses, as nothing will create rottenness sooner 
than letting the leaves flag, and lie upon each other, which 
will be the positive consequence of a want of shade. The 
most advisable method to obtain this end, is to have a few 
large sheets of strong paper to lay over the glasses within a 
frame, which, at the same time it shades the cuttings, docs not 
prevent the sun's rays from entering the frame, and clearing off 
any damp that may be accumulated therein, whereas, if mats 
be laid on the outside of the frame-light, it is evident they will 
lend to have the direct contrary effect. However, in the course 
of a week or a fortnight they will be able to withstand a little 
of the rays of the morning and evening sun," and should after- 
wards be gradually accustomed to it until they can stand it 
with safety. 



22 



THE PKACTICAL GARDENER. 



GENERAL CULTURE OF TROPICAL PLANTS. 

Having so far enlarged on the propagation of tropical plants, 
we will now otter a few observations on their general culture. 

As the majority of tropical plants are of rapid growth natur- 
ally, and rendered still more so by the close and high temper- 
ature in which it is necessary always to confine them, in a state 
of cultivation, it naturally follows that some are short lived, 
and many more are drawn up in the course of two or three 
years, so as to become naked at their bottom, and often very 
unsightly. Repeated propagation is the principal object to be 
had in view, so that as the older plants become either sickly, 
ill grown, or too large for the space allotted to them, they may 
be dispensed with, and their places supplied from the young 
stock. There is, however, this objection to that rule, that if 
the object of the cultivator be to have large and magnificent 
specimens, care must be paid to cultivate fewer in number, so 
as to afford sufficient room for them to extend themselves on all 
sides ; and if sufficient room be allowed them in the pots or 
tubs, and abundantly supplied with water, and suflScient tem- 
perature kept up, most stove plants will attain a large size in a 
short period. Large specimei:ks of these plants should be 
allowed a house for themselves, and a smaller house should be 
allotted for those of smaller growth. 

WINTER TREAMENT OF STOVE PLANTS IN GENERAL. — 
TEMPERATURE. 

All plants are naturally subject, in a certain extent, to the 
vicissitudes of winter, spring, and summer, it follows, therefore, 
that, in a state of cultivation, something analagous sliould be 
followed by the cultivator in imitation of those changes. To 
keep tropical plants at a high temperature during winter, when 
there is little sun-shine, is to excite their gi'owing principle at 
a period when they should rather be at rest ; and where such a 
practice is followed, the plants become drawn up weak and 
leafless, in consequence of the perpetual, or we may say, in this 
instance, unnatural, stimulus to excitement, which the applica- 
tion of heat produces. It appears from practice and observa- 
tion, that the temperature of the plant stove should be kept as 



THE STOVE. 



near to from 60 to 65 degrees as possible, during the dark days 
of winter, for all that is then required is to prevent the plants 
from being checked or chilled by cold during that season, so 
that, as spring naturally comes on, a farther, but gradual 
stimulus may be given them by additional heat, and most par- 
ticularly during the day. 

WATERING. 

Water must not be entirely withheld, particularly from some 
species, but a much less quantity of it is necessary than when 
the plants are in a growing state, and able to decompose a 
greater portion of that element. Some species require none for 
several weeks together, and such may be ascertained by their 
habits of growth, and are of the herbaceous and bulbous sorts. 
As these naturally ripen their foliage in autumn (or at whatever 
other season), and appear to die down to the ground, they 
should be observed, and collected as near together as circum- 
stances will admit of, and a suspension of watering should then 
gradually take place, and be continued in, till they begin to show 
signs of vegetation in spring, when they should be again sup- 
plied as usual. Some species which require very little water 
during winter, do not lose their leaves, nor die down to the sur- 
face of the pots ; but it is only observation on the part of the 
cultivator, that can direct him in these instances when to water, 
and when to withhold it. It is (as we have repeatedly ob- 
served) one of those cases in horticulture for which rules may 
be laid down, but not wholly without exceptions, and must en- 
tirely rest on the judgment of the cultivator. Steaming the 
stove during winter is a material feature in the best manage- 
ment of such plants, and should be scrupulously attended to, 
both to soften the atmosphere of the house, as well as to pre- 
vent the increase of insects, particularly the red spider, which 
is sure to make its unwelcome appearance in a high and dry 
atmosphere. The most eligible time for steaming the house is 
in the evening, when the flues are hottest, and it is performed 
by pouring water on them, which generates steam readily. In 
time of very severe frost, this operation may be performed 
during the day, or dispensed with for a few days altogether. 



24 



THK rUACTICAL GARDENER. 



Tlie quantity of water required to produce a sufficiency of 
steam, depends on a variety of local circumstances, such as the 
size of the house, the way in which the water is put on the 
flues, But it may be safely asserted, that more than is 

necessary is often used when it is poured on them by random, 
or done in too hurried a manner. In steaming all sorts ol 
hot-houses, as w^ell as in their whole management, it can only 
be expected to be well done when the operator feels an interest 
or pleasure in doing it. A few minutes more spent in applying 
it regularly and leisurely over the whole surface of the flues, 
will do much more good than sluicing a liogshead of water 
over the house in a careless manner. 

VENTILATION. 

During the winter months very little ventilation is required 
in these structures, for, unless the house be unusually well 
glazed, and in complete rej)air, a sufliciency of fresh air will 
find its way into it between the laps of the glass, and other 
openings. Indeed, greater care should be had to the exclusion 
of cold air during winter, than to its admission. The plants 
are, for the most part, (as observed above,) in an inactive state; 
and, therefore, not in want of those gasses which compose cer- 
tain parts of atmospherical air, and which arc found so neces- 
sary for them when in a growing state. 

INSECTS. 

The destruction and prevention of insects should be always 
before the eyes of the cultivator, who is ambitious of healthy 
and fine plants ; during winter there are some species of them 
that make their appearance, or are probably permanently on 
the plants. Carefully examining plant by plant, and leaf by 
leaf, is the only sure and effectual method of getting rid of 
them ; it is often objected that such a method is tedious, but 
let it be recollected that if so, it is sure, and time can better be 
spared during bad weather for this purpose, at this season, 
than at any other. Many boasted remedies have been puffed up 
for the total suppression and prevention of them, but when re- 



THE STOVE. 



25 



duced to practice have been found of little avail. If any thing 
can be applied in a general way for this purpose, it appears to 
be one of those gasses, which are destructive to animal life, 
while, at the same time, it is not injurious to that of vege- 
tables. 

Insects are probably, in all cases, the effects of bad manage- 
ment, and the effects of disease more than the cause of it. 
When plants are well cultivated, and kept in a growing state, 
few insects appear to molest them ; but whenever they become 
sickly, insects are sure to follow. 



SUMMER TREATMENT OF TROPICAL PLANTS. — 
TEMPERATURE. 

Fire-heat cannot safely be dispensed with in most seasons 
before the end of May, and should be regulated according to 
the coldness or warmth of the weather. The temperature, 
however, should begin to increase above that specified for 
the winter season about the beginning of February, and should 
be progressively increased as the plants begin to shoot out, 
and as the sun gets higher in our horizon, from 60° to 65°, 
it should be gradually increased to 70°, 75°, and by the end 
of March, or the beginning of April, may stand by sun-heat 
at 80°, and by fire-heat at or about 75 degrees, at the time of 
doing up the fires for the last time at night. This additional 
heat is necessary to be kept very steadily, for nothing is so 
injurious to plants as sudden transitions from a high tem- 
perature to a cold one, or the reverse. It is also necessary, 
at the above periods, to increase the temperature as the plants 
are then beginning to grow, and should be supplied with 
every stimulus abundantly to enable them to make proper 
shoots, for without the shoots are freely grown, they cannot 
be expected to produce flower-buds nor handsome plants. It 
is at the setting out of the season that this is to be eflfected, 
and not afterwards. Not but that many plants will shoot out 
a second time after being checked in their growth by want of 
heat or other causes ; but let it be remembered that, with by 
far the greater part of valuable plants, such wood is seldom 

♦e 



rUE PRACTICAL GARDKNEK. 



sufficiently ripened in autumn to produce flowers the succeed- 
ing season, or to produce them in the same season in per- 
fection. 

WATERING. 

As the plants begin to grow, and the season advances, water 
must be supplied more liberally than hitherto, and if the 
plants be vigorous, and the pots have been properly drained 
previously to the plants being put in, then we may almost say 
that, with regard to the majority of the tropical plants in the 
moist stove, that they cannot scarcely have too much water 
supplied them. There are exceptions, and the chief of those 
are, sickly plants, succulent plants, such as have not began 
to vegetate, and such as are naturally impatient of much mois- 
ture. As the days begin to grow mild, and the sun to have 
some influence, syringing the plants over head should not be 
neglected, both to refresh and clean the foliage, and also to 
create a moist soft atmosphere within the house. At first, 
this mode of watering should be moderately done with a fine 
cap on the syi'inge, so as to resemble dew more than rain, and 
should be performed in the mornings before the sun is full 
upon them ; but, as the season advances, it should be given 
in a much greater quantity, and with a moderately coarse cap, 
so that the foliage may be thoroughly washed, and cleared of 
dust and insects dislodged from under the leaves, young wood, 
and other hiding places. Towards the end of April, the 
operation may l)e performed in the afternoon before the sun is 
fully oft' the house, and by the end of June, in the evening 
about six o'clock. This method of watering is not intended 
to be sufficient for the plants ; for watering at the roots must 
also be attended to, as the plants may appear to require it, but 
not oftener. The water used at all times, in the early part of 
the season, should have stood some time within the house to 
equalize its temperature, or be rendered fit by the addition of 
water heated for the purpose. By the month of June the 
water from the cistern in the back-sheds, or under any other 
cover (except under ground), will be sufficiently warm. In 
watering over head, whether with the syringe, or otherwise. 



THE STOVE. 



27 



daring the heat of summer, and late in the spring, when the 
sun is then powerful, particular care should be taken that the 
operation be performed before or after the sun acts too power- 
fully on the house; for if done when it shines in full strength 
on the glass, the foliage would be liable to sustain serious 
injury. For the particles of water thrown on the plants form 
themselves into little spherules on the leaves, the surface of 
which spherules collect the rays of heat in a considerable 
degree, more or less, according to their convexity, and the 
consequence is, that the leaves will be burned into holes 
wherever the focus is formed. 



VENTILATION. 

As the season advances, ventilation must be increased ; but 
before the beginning of June, it is seldom necessary that it 
be indulged in to any great amount, a few inches of the lights 
being opened during the middle of the warmest days in March 
and April will be sufficient. But care must be taken that the 
house be shut up uefore the sun goes off it, as by that means 
the temperature of the house would fall too low before the 
usual time of lighting the fires, and, consequently, the plants 
would either become chilled, or else the fires will have to be 
lighted sooner, in order to keep it up, and thus occasion a 
waste of fuel that might be much better saved ; for as sun- 
heat is much better than fire-heat, the less of the latter that 
is used, and the more of the former that can be retained, the 
better. By the middle of June, a change of air may be more 
freely admitted, and during July, and part of August, more 
bountifully indulged in. By the beginning of September it 
should be reduced, and so gradually to the end of autumn. 



INSECTS. 

During the spring months, insects will be rapidly increasing 
in numbers, and at that period are most injurious to plants, by 
attacking the young shoots and leaves. The process of pick- 
ing them off should be attended to on all proper occasions, 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



and if persevered in, will keep them under. The red-spider 
is easily subdued by brushing the Hues over, when heated, 
with a mixture of flour of sulphur and water ; but if the 
cnj^ine or garden-syringe has been sufKciently used, there will 
be little fear of its making its appearance. The aphides, or 
green fly, as well as the thrips, are destroyed by the well- 
known remedy of tobacco-fumigation, which should be had 
recourse to whenever it makes its appearance. 



SHIFTING TROPICAL PLANTS. 



Cultivators, for the most part, begin a general shifting or 
re-potting of their stove-plants about the middle or end of 
April. However convenient the practice of a general shifting 
may be, still it is subject to many objections. All plants do 
not require to be annually shifted, but are found to flower 
better when that operation is less frequently adopted. All 
plants, even in the same house, do not begin to vegetate at the 
same season ; and, as the time when they begin to grow ap- 
} tears the most natural to supply them with fresh food, it 
therefore follows that they should be shifted only as they 
attain that state. However, having made these observations, 
wc may detail the process for brevity's sake under this general 
head, and, according to our usual method, give the essence of 
the practice of others, as well as that of our own. On this 
subject, Gushing observes, Being fully j)repared, let a part 
of them be taken to the potting-shed together, that they may 
be no longer than necessary out of the stove : and, while these 
are shifting, the operation of turning the tan-beds should be 
proceeded with but there are few modern cultivators who 
now use tan, as we have already noticed. After detailing this 
process, which difters nothing in principle Irora what we have 
explained in the pine-stoves, {sec Forcing Garden,) he pro- 
ceeds, " In shifting the plant, the greatest nicety should be 
used not to injure the roots: because, if the roots, fi'om a 
multiplicity of wounds, (which are more frequently lacerated 
ihaii cleanly cut,) once become cankered, or contaminated in 
anv manner, th? branches must also be expected to sufler and 



TlIJi STOVE. 



29 



decay." In preparing the roots of the plants, previously to 
their being repotted, he justly reprobates an old and erroneous 
practice, long pertinaciously adhered to by cultivators of the 
old school, that is, " that of paring off' the best part of the 
roots with a knife, that is the tips or ends of the fibres, which 
are undoubtedly the active agents in collecting the food for the 
stem, &c. Then, without ever loosening the remaining part 
of the ball, set in the new pot with a little fresh earth thrown 
loosely about it : as a matter of course they think it must be 
completely drenched or flooded from the water-pot; and 
lastly, to crown the whole, perhaps immediately set it in a 
pan of water, when, if they only took time to consider the 
mutilated state to which they have reduced the roots, it is 
impossible they could ever conceive them to be in a state fit 
to undergo sudh treatment with ;iny kind of advantage. But it 
is the misfortune of many, who will not for a moment hesitate 
to undertake the care of tender and curious plants, as a matter 
easily understood, yet will not take the trouble of judging for 
themselves to follow the old tract of cutting and watering, the 
same, as they may have before seen practised on the hardiest 
geraniums or myrtles. Though the method may not seem to 
hurt some few kinds of strong freely growing plants, yet it 
never can be allowed as a proper mode of treatment for all 
plants indiscriminately, because they may happen to have a 
good portion of roots : indeed more plants have been destroyed 
by this practice than by any other particular part of the sys- 
tem of management which some so blindly follow. There are 
instances, however, wherein a knife is necessary to the roots, 
as well as the branches, viz. when they become broken, or 
otherwise contaminated, and also to such as are propagated 
by cuttings of the roots, as some species of Geranium may be, 
some Mimosce also, and indeed any that are observed to pro- 
duce suckers ; in all such cases they should be taken off* with 
precision, and a sufficiency left to support the parent, if con- 
sidered worth preserving. In turning the plant carefully out 
of the pot, observe if the roots have perforated it in any part, 
so as to render it imi)Ossiblc to part them without breaking 
the one, or lacerating the other, in which case prefer the for- 
mer as the slightest damage : however, when the ball of roots 



30 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



is divested of its pot, let the broken tiles, or whatever sub- 
stance be used in draining, be carefully picked out without 
tearing off the roots which may have grown amongst them ; 
also any caked or mossy substance on the surface, which will 
come easily off with the fingers. Then proceed to loosen the 
earth, and matted roots by gently patting them on the side of 
the ball with the hand, or otherwise, so as to open the pores 
of the earth without cracking the roots : shake off any loose 
earth, and, having a proper sized pot ready prepared, put in 
a quantity of the fresh mould sufficient to raise the crown of 
the roots to about half an inch below the rim of the pot, on 
which set the plant, and add more earth, lightly shaking it 
in among the fibres : let the whole be pressed moderately 
tight, but not so as to render it hard in the least degree, nor 
by any means using a stick for this purpose, (another never- 
failing attendant on the former practice,) by which the roots 
are extremely liable to be torn or bruised ; add mould suffi- 
cient to raise the surface level with the rim of the pot, as it 
will settle to a proper depth with watering, and smooth the 
whole off neatly with the hand." When the whole are re- 
potted in this way, they are immediately removed again into 
' the stove, and, by shading and attention to watering, &c., 
are soon re-established to a growing state. 

On the same subject Mr. Sweet, in his Botanical Cultivator, 
remarks, *' In potting i)lants, care should be taken to drain the 
pots well with broken potsherds, or rough bits of turf; for 
nothing injures them more than letting them get sodden with 
too much wet. The best time to shift them into fresh pots is 
in spring, but some will require to be shifted again in autumn, 
to have them thrive well. The freely growing kinds cannot be 
well over-potted, if there be plenty of room for them in the 
houses ; they will thrive and tiower better for being in large 
pots. Others that are more tender, should be kept in as small 
pots as possible, as they may not get sodden and lose their 
roots." 

Our practice has been to shift only such plants, and at such 
periods, as they may seem to require it, whether in spring, sum- 
mer, winter, or autumn ; and, having the pots either new or 
well cleaned and drained, pot them, without injuring the roots 



THE STOVE. 



.31 



as little as possible ; but, at the same time, reducing the ball, 
so that the pot may contain as little of the old exhausted 
mould as possible, which, having supplied the plant for some 
time previously, cannot possibly contain any store of sus- 
tenance for it in future ; and, if left undisturbed of any size, 
prevents a sufficient quantity of new matter being put in the 
pot for its future supply. Unless in the case of very deli- 
cate species, or tender-rooted sorts, there is much less dan- 
ger in entirely reducing the ball and cutting out the decayed 
or broken roots, than there is evident injustice done them by 
re-potting with the balls almost entire, and only adding from a 
quarter of an inch to an inch of fresh mould round the roots, 
which is all that the plant has to support it ; the interior of the 
pot being filled with a hard ball of exhausted useless mould, in 
which no root will hardly live, far less prosper. By the latter 
method, plants of a large size may be well grown in compara- 
tively small pots, as the whole body of mould is in a fresh state, 
and, consequently, fitted for the purpose it is intended ; whereas, 
by the former method, plants scarcely a foot in height we often 
see occupying a pot nearly as much in diameter. Nothing 
looks worse than small plants in large pots ; and, such is the 
case, that such plants never prosper. 



REMOVING TROPICAL PLANTS OUT OF THE STOVE. 

A very common practice exists amongst cultivators to remove 
a large portion of their stove plants into the green-house during 
the warmer weeks of our summers. So far this is beneficial to 
some of the plants, that it admits of them standing much thinner, 
and, consequently, enjoying much more air and sun-shine. 
But, in carrying this practice into execution, we would re- 
commend that the hardier species be chosen to be thus set out. 
Many of the delicate kinds, particularly those from the warmer 
parts of the tropics, cannot be injured, but be much benefited 
by all the heat that they can have, even in our stoves, during 
summer ; and as air can be admitted, at least it should be ad- 
mitted to them by opening the ventilators or sashes of the 
house, they will thereby enjoy a sufficiency of that element 
without removal at all. However, when the house is crowded, 



32 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



those that arc hardiest, as noticed above, may be taken out. 
In regard to some of the inmates of the dry-stove or succulent- 
house, the case is otherwise, many of them are found to do 
better and to flower much freer when set out during summer. 
'I'his is particularly illustrated in the case of some of the Cac- 
tuscs, which seldom flower, if not exposed either to the tem- 
perature of the green-house or open air for a considerable 
period of the summer. When the plants are so set out, an 
opportunity will be afforded of cleaning such as are infected 
with insects ; and, for this purpose, the practice of Gushing 
may be adopted. " When the plants are set out in summer,'' 
says that author, " every part of the house should be well 
wasiied with strong soap lees, in which a little of the same 
t()])acco as is used for fumi^jating has been infused, in particular 
all the joints of the wood work, and also whatever nail-holes, or 
other crevices, may haj)pen to be therein ; as, in those places, 
some of the species, more especially the white mealy bug, is 
nmch inclined to secrete itself for breeding. 



AUTUMNAL TREATMENT OF TROPICAL PLANTS. — 
TEMPERATURE. 

Towards the end of September, or beginnnig of October, the 
evenings will begin to get cold, and, in order tliat the stove 
plants may not experience any check at this time, when most 
of them are in full foliage, it will be necessary to resume the 
use of fire-heat. This may be commenced with by only light- 
ing the fires in the evening, and thereby merely warming the 
flues, which will difiuse a mildness through the house, which, 
in damp weather, will, in particular, be of much importance to 
them. 

To have tropical plants look well, the period of winter should 
be shortened as much as possible by artificial means, and this 
can only be attained by lengthening out the autumn, as it were, 
by an application of fire-heat, when that from the sun becomes 
insufficient; and again, by bringing on spring at an early 
period by the like means. Tropical plants, in general, sustain 
more injury from allowing them to be checked in growth at this 



THE STOVE. 



33 



period, much more so, tliaii by any reasonable degree of cold- 
ness in the house during winter ; an almost total stop is put 
too suddenly to vegetation, and, as a consequence, the juices 
of the plants are stopped while in full vigour, become stagnated, 
and soon vitiated; disease follows, and insects immediately 
commence their attacks ; besides, the wood of many of the 
shrubby kinds are not properly matured, or what is technically 
termed ripened ; and either a similar circumstance follows, or 
the buds do not expand into flowers in spring, from being not 
fully matured in autumn. It is well known that a favorable 
autumn has a very material effect in ensuring a crop upon trees 
in the open air, and it must have exactly the like effect upon 
those trees or plants under glass. 



WATERING. 

As the growing season of the plants draws to a termination, 
the supply of water must also be gradually diminished ; and 
care must now be taken that none of them sustain injury from 
an over-abundant supply of it. The plants set on the bed, as 
they will be considerably shaded, and at a distance both from 
the glass and also from the action of the heat from the flues, 
will require to be attended in this respect, as the water which 
they receive from the syringe may be sufficient for many of 
them, particularly such as have ripened their wood, and all that 
are naturally deciduous. Those on the kirbs, or over the flues, 
will now, however, have to be supplied with an additional 
quantity, as they, particularly the latter, will be liable to be 
dried up, as the temperature is kept up by fire-heat. Nothing 
is so injurious to stove plants during autumn and winter, as an 
injudicious application of too much water, for it not only stag- 
nates at their roots, but is apt to chill the house too much, par- 
ticularly towards the surface of the bed on which the plants stand. 
Steaming should again be commenced with, which is of itself a 
species of watering, and syringing should be persevered in, but 
with moderation. It should also be observed, that the water 
used both for syringing and also for application at their roots, 
should be placed in the house some hours previously to using, 
or otherwise warmed to nearly the minimum heat of the house. 

* F 



34 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



VENTILATION. 

As the cold weather approaches, ventilation should be les- 
sened, both as the admission of air would tend to lower the 
temperature of the house, and also as the plants do not require 
so much of it at this season as hitherto. When from the heat 
of any warm days that occur, that opening the sashes may be- 
come necessary, it should only be for a short time, as the warmer 
the house is shut up at night, the less fire-heat it will require 
to maintain a proper degree of heat throughout the night. 



INSECTS. 

Insects, the almost constant attendants on tropical plants, 
will still require looking after. The means already proposed 
may be adopted, or others that may be more eHectual may be 
devised by the cultivator ; at all events, vigilance and repeated 
application are necessary to keep them under. 



35 



AN ENUMERATION 



OF THE PRINCIPAL GENERA OF 



HOT-HOUSE OR TROPICAL PLANTS. 

WITH THE SOIL EACH GENUS THRIVES IN. 

INCLUDING THE MODE OF PROPAGATION, WHETHER FROM 
SEEDS, ROOTS, CUTTINGS, &C. &C. 



Genera. Soil. Mode of Propagation 

Vbroma Peat aud loam By seeds aud cuttings. 

Abrus Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Acacia Peat and loam By cuttings, seeds, and cuttings of the roots. 

Acanthus Rich loam By cuttings. 

Achania Loam and peat < Cuttings taken from the tips of the young 

( shoots root freely. 

Achras Rich loam Cuttings strike freely. 

Achyranthus . . Rich light loam By seeds and cuttings. 

Acrostichmn .. Decayed veget. matter . . ^^^d^' ""^'^^ "^^^ ^^^^^ ^^'^ 

\ of the fronds, aud by dividing the roots. 

Adansonia .... Rich loam By cuttings. 

Adelia Rich loam Cuttings root freely. 

Adenanthera.. Loam and peat i^^''^^ cuttings, with the leaves left on, root 

( freely. 

Adiantum . . . .Decayed veget. matter. .By seeds, or by dividing the roots. 

iEgle Rich loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

JErua Light rich soil By cuttings. 

iEschynomene .Rich loam By seeds. 

Agava Poor sandy soil ...... By suckers. 

Aglia Loam and Peat 5 Cuttings that are ripened at the base will root 

( freely. 

Ailanthus Loam and peat By cuttings of the roots. 

Alanguim Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Aleurites Rich loam (Cuttings of the ripened wood, having the loaf 

( left entire, will root. 
AUamanda. . , . Rich light soil By cuttings. 

Aloe Lime rubbish By suckers, which are produced abundantly. 

Alpinia Rich sandy loam By dividing the roots. 

Alstroemeria. . .Rich light soil By seeds, and by parting the roots. 

Alyxia Sandy loam and peat . .Cuttings of the ripened wood strike root. 

which arc sometimes produced, and 
)ffsets from the bulbs. 



AmaryUis Rich light soil 

I by offs( 



36 



THE PRACTICAL GAllDi.NER. 



Soil. Mode cf rroi>u>;:iti«i« 

. . n- 1. 1 ( C'utliiigs with their leaves left entire will root 

Amenmnum ..Rich loam J 

I freely. 

Amomuin Rich sandy luani Same as Alpinia. 

Amyris Loam and peat Cuttiiips root readily. 

Anacardiuin. . . lA'^hl loamy soil Ciittiiiijs of the rijjened wood strike root. 

Anemia Decayed vcget. matter. . Ry seed, and di\ iding at the root. ^ 

Angelonia .... Light rich soil Cuttings root freely. 

Angrajcum . . . .Turfy peat Ry dividing the roots. 

Angnria Light rich soil Ry seeds and cuttings. 

Anona Rich loamy soil Cuttings of the ripened wood strike freely. 

Autidesma . . . .Rich loam Ry cuttings of the ripened wood. 

Aphclandria . . <| '^'S^' ^^^^^7 h'-'i"! ) Cuttings of the young wood strike root 
( and peat ) 

Aralia Rich loam Ripened cuttings strike freely. 

Ardisia I*cat and loam Ry seeds and cuttings. 

Areca Light sandy loam Only by seeds. 

Aristolochia. . .Sandy loam and peat . .Cuttings root freely. 

Artal>otrv s . . . Sandy loam and peat . . 5 ^"'^'"^ "P^^"^'^ '"^^^ ^'^'^y »° 

i brisk heat. 

Atrocaq)us .... Rich loam * 

( entire. 

Asclepiaa . • • • • Light rich mould Cuttings root freely. 

Asplenium . . .Decayed veget. matter. , Ry seeds, and by dividing the roots. 

Aspidium Decayed veget matter. .Ry seeds, and by dividing the roots. 

Astnipa'a Rich loam Young cuttings root freely. 

AtaJantia I-ight turfy peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Averrhoa Sandy loam Ripened cuttings strike root. 

A\ icennia . ... Loam and peat Ripened cuttings strike root 

Ayenia Rich light soil Readily by cuttings. 

liactris Sandy loam Only by seeds. 

15ambusa Rich loam Ry offsets. 

Banisteria Sandy loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Barleria Rich loam and peat . . .Cuttings of the young shoots root freely. 

Barringtonia . . Loumand peat Cuttings of the ripened wt>od root freely. 

Bassia l>ight loam Ripened cuttings root freely. 

Rauhinia . . . Rich loam Cuttings of the half-ripened wood strike best 

Begonia Rich light soil Readily by cuttings. 

Roh ria Light rich soil Cuttings root very freely. 

Rignonia Loam and peat Ry cuttings, but not very readily. 

Rixa Loam and peat Easily by cuttings. 

Blakea Peat earth 5 Cuttings of the ripened shoots root, but oot 

i wry freely. 

Blechnum . , . .Decayed veget. matter. . By seeds, and by dividing the roots. 

Bletia Turfy peat Rapidly by dividing the roots. 

Bocconia .... Rich light soil By seeds, which ripen abundantly. 

Boerhaavia. . . .Rich loam Cuttings root freely. 

Bombax Rich loam Ilalf-ripeued cuttings root freely. 

Bontia Loam and peat Ry cuttings. 



THE STOVE. 



37 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Bouvardia . . . .Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Brassavola . . . .Light sandy soil With difficulty by parting at the root. 

Brassia Light sandy soil Readily by dividing at the root. 

Brexia Peat and loam ^Cuttings of either the old or young wood- root 

( readily. 

Bromelia Rich loam By suckers, which are produced in abundance. 

Brosimum . . . .Loam and peat Large old cuttings only will root. 

Brownea. Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Brucea Rich loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Brugmansia. ..Rich loam and peat. . . .Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Brunsfelsia. . . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Bryonia Rich light soil Young cuttings root freely. 

Brjophyllum . .Light sandy soil Cuttings root freely, as does also the leaves. 

Bubroma Light loani By cuttings. 

Bucida Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Bumelia Loam and peat Difficult to increase by cuttings. 

Buonapartea ..Parasitical. 

Bursera Rich light soil Cuttings of a large size root freely. 

Burchellia . . . .Loam and peat Half-ripened cuttings will root freely. 

„ ^ T J ^ ^ Cuttings with their leaves uninjured will root 

Butea Loam and peat \ 

i in a brisk heat. 

Cacalea Light sandy loam Cuttings when partially dried root freely. 

Cactus Light sandy loam Cuttings when partially dried root freely. 

Cadia Peat and loam By cuttings. 

C^salpina.... Loam and peat ^Difficult to increase. Sometimes the half- 

( ripened wood will root in a moist brisk hear. 

Caladium Rich soil By the tubers of the root. 

Calamus Sandy loam Difficult to increase. 

Calea Rich soil Cuttings root freely. 

Calenchoe . . . .Sandy loam By the leaves. 

Callicai-pa .... Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Calophyllum . .Turfy loam and peat . . . Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Calyptrion. . . .Loamaud peat Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Cameraria . . . .Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 

Canella Loam and peat 5^^'^^ ^"""'^ '^'^^^ ^^''^'^ ''^'^^ " 

( out being deprived of their fohage. 

Canna Rich loam By seeds, and dividing the roots. 

Capparis Rich light loam Cuttings root readily. 

Capavaria Peat and loam Cuttings root readily. 

Capsicum Rich soil By seeds. 

Carica Loamy soil \^'''^''_ cuttings not deprived of their lea^es 

( strike root in sand. 
Carissa Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 

Carolininea. ..Rich loam (Cuttings taken oft" at a joint, and their leave- 

^ loft entire, will root in heat. 

Caiyota Sandy loam Managed like the other palms. 

Cassia Rich loam By seeds and cuttings. 

Calalpa Light rich loam Cuttings root readily. 

Catasetum Managed like the other orchideous i)lants. 



38 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Catesba\i Turfy loam By cuttings. 

Cattleya Managed like the other orchideous plants. 

Ccanothus . . . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Cocropia Kich loam Large cuttings root in sand. 

Cedrela Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Cerbera Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Cheirostemon. .Tnrfy loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Chiococca .... Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Chloranthus .. . Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 

Chonielia Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Chrysophyllum.Sandy loam Ripened cuttings will root in a strong heat. 

c J 1 ( Cuttings of a large size with their leaves entire 

Cicca Sandy loam J " ° 

( will strike root 

Cinchona Loam and peat . ..... .Cuttings of the ripened wood sometimes root. 

Cissus Rich light soil Cuttings root freely, 

Citharexylum. . Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Clematis Rich light soil Young cuttings root freely. 

Cleome Light rich soil By seeds, which ripen freely. 

Clcrodendrum. Light rich soil ^CutUngs of the very young wood, a.s well a- 

( pieces of the roots, make young plantjt. 

Clitoria Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

lusia Light sandy loam Readily increased by cuttings. 

Coccoloba . ... Rich loam By cuttings. 

Codarium Loam and peat Ripened cuttings strike ro«it. 

Cortea Rich loam By seeds and cuttings of the ripened wood. 

Coix Rich soil Seeds are plentifully produced. 

Culltertia Sandy loam Ripened cuttings ro<»t freely. 

Columnea ... Peat and loam ( Readily increased by cuttings, but easily lost if 

( too much water be given it. 

Ct.nibretum . . .Loam and peat Only by layers. 

Comnielina . . .Sandy loam and peat . .By dividing the roots, and by seeds. 
Conocarpus . . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Cookia Sandy loam and peat . .Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Copaifera Sandy loam Cuttings of the ripened wcH>d root freely. 

Ct>r(lia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Cormitia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Costiis Loam and peat By dividing the roots, and by seeds. 

Cotula Rich light b.am Cuttings root readily. 

Crata>va Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Criiuini Rich loam By suckers at the roots, and by seeds. 

Crossandria . . .Light rich soil Cuttings root freely. 

Crotalaria .... Loam and peat cuttings of the young bh»H)bJ, and some 

( species by seeds. 
Cioton Loam and peat By cuttings. 

( uralella Sandy loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Curcnligo. . . . .Loam and peat By oflsets from the roots. 

Curcuma Loam and peat By offsets from the roots. 

Cyathea Decayed veget. matter .By seeds, and di\iding at the root 



THE STOVE. 



3d 



Soil. Mode of Propagation, 

Cyeas Sandy loam By knobs, which form round the roots. 

Cymbidium . . .Sandy peat By parting at the roots. 

Cyiianchum. . .Peat and loam Cuttings strike freely. 

Cyperus Rich soil By dividing at the roots. 

Dalbergia . . . .Sandy loam. Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Dalechampia . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Daphne Rich loam and peat . . . Ripened cuttings will root in sand. 

Dendrobium.. .Turfy peat By dividing at the root. 

Dichondra .... Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Dicksonia Loam and peat By seeds, &c., like all other ferns. 

C Ripened cuttings with their leaves entire root 
Dillenia Light loam < pretty freely, and seeds are occasionally pro- 

C cured from India. 

Dimocarpus . . . Rich loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Dioscorea Rich loam By parting the roots. 

Diplazium . . . .Decayed veget matter .. By seeds, or by dividing at the roots. 

Dolichos Light rich soil By seeds, and sometimes by cuttings. 

T^ Tj • V 1 ( Sometimes suckers are obtained from old plants, 

Doryanthns . . . Rich loam ^ *^ 

( but spanngly. 

Dracaena Rich loam Cuttings root pretty freely. 

Dracontium. . .Rich loam By dividing the roots. 

Duranta Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Echites Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Elaeagaus . . . , , Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

r Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely, and 
Elaeocarpus ... Loam and peat < seeds maybe obtained by assisting the im- 

(. pregnation. 

Elaeodendrum . Peat and loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Elettaria Rich sandy loam By dividing at the root. 

Embry op tens. .Sandy loam Ripened cuttings strike freely. 

Ephielis Light loam Cuttings of a large size root freely. 

Epidendrum (Parasitic on other plants naturally; and are often grown here hung up 
( in baskets filled with moss, &c. 

E ran themum. .Rich light soil Readily by cuttings. 

Eriodendron ..Turfy loam Readily by cuttings. 

Eriolaena .... .Turfy loam Half ripened cuttings root freely. 

Erythrina Rich loam Cuttings of the plant root freely. 

Eugenia Peat and loam Ripened cuttings root readily. 

Euphorbia Sandy loam (Cuttings partially dried will root, and many ol 

i the species ripen seed. 

Euryale An aquatic Seeds may be obtained by assisting impregnation. 

Fagara Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Ficus Rich loam i cuttings, and some of the species will emit 

i roots from the leaves. 

Flacourtia .... Loam and peat Cuttings will root freely. 

Flemingia Loam and peat Cuttings will root freely. 

Flindersia Turfy loam By cuttings. 

Gaertnera Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 



40 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of I'ropagation. 

Galcga Loam and peat Hy seeds and cnttings. 

Galipea loam Cuttings root freely. 

Galphimia . . . .'I'urfy loam and peat . . Ripened cuttings root readily. 

Garcinia Light loamy soil Ripened cuttings will root in sand. 

Gardenia Loam and peat Half-ripened cuttings strike root. 

Gaya Loam and pt at Half ripened cuttings root freely. 

Geoffroya Loam and peat Cuttings will root readily. 

Gcsneria ... .Light rich soil liy cuttings. 

Getonia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Globba Loam and peat Br dividing them at their root^. 

. , , \ Readily by dividing the roots, or by seeds, which 

<»Ionosa Loam and peat i 

( ripen abundantly. 

. . r 1 1 ^ \ Readilv bv cuttings : the leaves planted in clear 

<»lo.\inia I urfv loam and peat ... • ' 

( sand will also make good plants. 

Glycine Loam and peat Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Gmelina Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Gomphia Sandy loam and peat . .By cuttings. 

Gomphrena. ..Rich light soil Young cuttings root readily. 

(Jonolubus .... Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Goody era Vegetable matter By suckers. 

Goa.sypium Rich light soil Half-ripened cuttings root freely. 

Gouania Loam and peat Ripened cuttings root readily. 

Grewia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

GrifTmia Rich loam By offsets from the bulbs, or from seeds. 

Grislea Loam and peat ^'oung cuttings root freely. 

Gronovia Rich loam Young cuttings root freely. 

Guatteria Loamy soil Cuttings of the ripened woo<l root freely. 

Guazuma Loam and peat l?y cuttings. 

Guilandina . . . Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Gustavia Peat and loam Ripened cuttings root in saiul in a strong hi\it. 

Haimatoxylon Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Hamellia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Hedvchium ...Light rich soil j Dividing the roots is the mode by which tluy 

( are increased. 

Ikdysarum ... .Loam and peat By ripe seeds, wliich arc often produced. 

Heliconia Peat and loam By dividing at the roots. 

Heliocarpus . . . Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

. J * (By seeds, and bv dividing at the roots, as all 

Hemiouites ... Decayed veget. matter . . < 

( other ferns. 

Heritiera Sandy loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

H^rnandia . .Sandy loam ( Ripened cuttings, with their leaves entire, root 

i freely. 

Heynea Loajii and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

r Several species ripen seeds, by which young 
Hibiscus ..... .Peat and loam < plants arc obtained, and others are readily 

C propagated by cuttings. 
Hillia Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 



THE STOVE, 



41 



^oil. Mode of Propagation, 

Hippomane ...Loain and peat (Cuttings of both old and young wood will roQt 

( freely. 

Hirtella Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Hoffinaijseggia Peat and loam Half-ripened cuttings root freely. 

Hoya Sandy loam \ Cuttings root in heat; and young leaves stuck in 

( the ground will also form plants. 

Hura Light loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Hymenaea Loam and peat By cuttings, but more readily by seeds. 

Ichnocarpus . , .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Indigofera . , , .Peat and loam By cuttings and seeds. 

Inga Loam and peat Young cuttings taken off at a joint root freely. 

Inocarpus . , , .Loam and peat Ripened cuttings root freely. 

Ipomcea Rich light loam 5 ^'^""^ "^^^^ '""^^ ^'"^ 

( produced. 

Ixora ..... . , . .Saudy loam and peat . .Cuttings root freely. 

Jacaranda . . , .Loam and peat .Half-ripened cuttings root freely. 

Jacquinia Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Jasminum Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Jatropha Loam and peat By seeds, which often ripen, and also by cuttings. 

Jussieua An aquatic Easily propagated. 

Justicia Peat and loam Cuttings root freely in most of the species. 

Legerstroemia Peat and loam By cuttings, which root freely. 

Lagetta Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 

Lantana Loam and peat Cuttings root freely in fine sand. 

Laurus Rich loam and peat. .. . | "P^««<1 ^^od strike root, but 

( not without care. 

Lawsonia . . . .Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 

Leea Light loam . Readily by cuttings. 

Limonia Loam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Lisianthus . . . .Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 

Lobelia Light rich soil Cuttings strike freely. 

Louchitis . . . .Decayed veget matter By seeds, and dividing at the roots. 
Lygodium .... Decayed veget. matter By seeds, and dividing at the roots. 

Macrocnemum Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Maesa Loam and peat ,By cuttings, which root freely in heat. 

Malpighia Peat and loam Ripened cuttings will strike root. 

Mammea Sandy loam ^Ripened cuttings, with the leaves left entire 

( root pretty freely. 

i Seeds are often imported from the West Indies 
which vegetate readily, but it may be also in- 
creased by cuttings in a moist heat. 
Marauta Rich soil By dividing at the root 

Marica Loam and peat 5 "^^^^ "P^" frequently, and also by 

( dividmg at the root. 
Melaleuca . . .Sandy peat and loam . .Cuttings root pretty freely. 

Melastoma Sandy peat Young cuttings root readily. 

Melhania Loam and peat ..... .By cuttings, which root freely. 

# 



42 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Melia Loam and peat ! < Seeds often ripen, and cutUngs will strike, if 

( not too young. 

Melicocca . . . .IJght loam By cuttings. 

Melodinus . . . .Loam and peat Cuttings strike root readily. 

Michelia Lcam and peat 5 ^'^'^"^ '^^'^"^^ ^''^^^^ 

I if inarched on the Magiwlm purpuria. 

Mimosa Peat and loam 5^"^^ ''P"""^ "P"" ^^^'^ ^'^^ ""^^''^ »^ 

( creased by cuttings. 

Mimu.sops .... Loam and peat Ripened cuttings root readily. 

Monelia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Morinda Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Muntingia .... Loamy soil Readily by cuttings. 

Musa Rich loam Readily by suckers. 

Mussaenda Loam and peat Cutting* will root freely. 

Myginda Loamy soil By cuttings, 

Myrodia Light rich soil By cuttings of the young wood. 

("By layers, although some of the species «ill 
Myrtus Rich light loam S root by cuttings. Seeds, when tJiey cau be 

C obtained, arc to be preferred. 
Nauclea Loam and pe*t By cuttings. 

X- , I . (By dividing the roots, but more abundantly by 

rvelunibium ...An aquatic ^ ^ ° ' 

\ seeds. 

Neottia Turfy peat Only by dividing the roots. 

Nephelium ...Rich loam Cuttings root freely. 

X' 1. J- J » ( By seeds, and by dividing at the root, like all 

^ephrodium . .Decayed veget matter < 

( other ferns. 

Nerium Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Nissolia Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Nyctanthes ... .Loam and peat Half-ripeued cuttings readily strike root. 

Nymphaia .... An atiuatic By dividing the routs. 

Ochna Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Ochroma Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Oldenlandia .. Rich loam Cuttings root freely. 

Olyra Rich loam By dividing the roots. 

Omphalea Loam and peat ^Cuttings having the leaves left entire root 

\ readily. 

Oncidium Parasitic By dividing at the roots. 

r Seeds are often procured from the ^^'est Indies 

Ormosia Loam and peat } by which they are increased; it will, how 

ever, also strike from cuttings. 

Oniithrophe . . Light loam Cuttings root readily. 

Osbeckia Peat Cuttings of the young shoots root freely. 

Oxyanthus. . . .Sandy loam and peat . . Readily by cuttings. 

Oxystelma . . . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Pjcderia Loam and peat Cuttings root readily. 

Panax Loam and peat Readily by cuttings. 

Pancratium . . . Rich loam ^ ^l'"^*^ ''^"""'^'^ 

\ produced. 



THE STOVE. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

^The only means of increase in this country ' 

Pandanus Rich loam < appears to be from suckers, and these are not 

C often produced. 

Parkinsonia .. .Loam aiid peat (By seeds, which are often imported, and also 

( sometimes by cuttings. 

/■Cuttings, and if attention be paid to assist 
Passiflora .... .Rich loam and peat • . . < impregnation, new and curious hybrides may 

C be produced. 

Paullinia Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Pavonia Light soil Cuttings root freely. 

Pedilanthus... Light sandy soil ( Cuttings root freely, if put into the bark-bed 

( instead of mould. 

Peliosanthes . .Turfy loam By dividing the roots. 

Pentapetes.. . .Light rich soil Cuttings readily root. 

Periptera Light rich soil Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Persea : . .Turfy loam Generally by layers. 

Petiveria Light rich soil Cuttings root freely. 

Petra^a Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Pharus Light loam By dividing at the root. 

^ From seeds only. The dates of the shops 
Pha-nix Rich loam < often vegetate, and, by that means, P. dacty- 

(. lifera, is increased. 

Phrynium Rich loam By dividing at the roots. 

Phyllanthus . Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Phylloma .... Sandy loam Only by suckers. 

Phytolacca . . . .Loam and peat By seeds and cuttings. 

Picramnia . . . .Loamy soil \ ^"""^^^ °^ ^ ^^""^^ ^^^^ ^"^^ ^ 

i are small. 

Piper , .Loam and peat Very readily by cuttings and suckers. 

^. . ,. 0,1 ( Cuttings arc sometimes rooted, by which plants 

Piscidia Sandy loam i ' * 

( are obtamed. 

Pitcairnia . . . .Sandy loam By suckers from the ro^ts. 

Plukenetia . . . .Light rich loam By cuttings. 

Plumbago . . . .Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Plimieria Light rich soil ..Cuttings of a large size root best. 

Poinciana . . . .Loam and peat By seeds. 

_ , J. A V 1 ( Multiplied, like all ferns, by seeds, and by divid- 

Polypodium . .Any light sou ^ ^ ' 

( ing at the roots. 

Pongamia . . . .Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Pontederia ... .An aquatic By dividing at the roots. 

Polyspora . . . .Loam and peat Half-ripened cuttings root readily. 

r, J. T J ( Cuttings, ha\ ing their leaves left entire, root 

Portlandia ....Loam and peat J ° * ° ' 

) best. 

Pothos Light turfy soil By seeds, and by dividing the plant. 

Prcstonia .....Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Priva Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

PMdiuiu Rich loam ^^y^''' ^''^ ^ '^^ '^''^ ^'^"^ cuttingy, 

( which produce the best plants. 



44 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Psychotria . . . .Loam and peat Cuttin/^ root readily. 

Pteris Any light soU By seeds, or by dividing at the rooL^. 

T • u» 1 ( Cnttines, having their leaves left entire, root 

Pterocarpus . . . Eight loam ^ ^ ' ^ ' 

( freely. 

•n. t>- I 1 (Cvittinp?;, ha\ing their leaves left entire, root 

Pterospermum Kich loam < - ° * 

* ( freely. 

Quas>-ia Eoam and peat Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Quisqualis . . . .Peat and loam Cuttings root freely. 

Kajania Rich loam By dividing the roots. 

Raudia Eoam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Rauwolfia .... Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Rhapis Sandy loam By suckers from the roots. 

Rhexia Sandy peat Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Rhipsalis Sandy loam Readily by cuttings. 

Rhopala Sandy loam Cuttings strike root freely. 

Riohardsonia ..Eoam and })eat By aittings. 

Riviiia Eoam and peat By seeds or cuttings. 

Rt)binia Peat and loam By seeds or cuttings of the young wood. 

Rolandra Rich light loam Readily by cuttings. 

Rondclctia. . , . Eoam and peat Cuttings rm^t freely. 

lioscoara Turfy loam By dividing ut the root. 

Roxburghia . . .Loam and peat By dividing at the root. 

Rnbus Eight rich soil By suckers, cuttings, or seeds. 

Rutllia Light rich soil By cuttings. 

Ruizia Peat and loam By nittings. 

Ruvsclia Light rich soil Readily by cuttings. 

Sabal Sandy loam Occasionally by suckers. 

Saccharum .... Rich loam By suckers. 

Sagus Sandy loam Occasionally by suckers. 

Salvia Peat and loam Most readily by cuttings. 

Samyda Eoam and peat By cuttings. 

Sanseviera .... Sandy loam By suckers. 

Santalum .... Eight loam By cuttings. 

Sapindus Loam and peat Large cuttings root more freely than small ones. 

Sapium Eoam and peat By cuttings. 

Sarcocephalus Turfy loam By cuttings freely. 

Schinus Peat and loam Ripened cuttings root freely. 

Schotia Peat and loam By cuttings, but not readily. 

Scopolia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

Secamone .... Loam and peat Cuttings root readily. 

Securidaca ... .Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Sclloa Eight rich loam Cuttings of the young U-ood root very readily. 

Scriana Sandy loam By cuttings. 

Sesbana Loam and peat .By cuttings. 

Sida Peat and loam '^'^^^ ^re often produced in thi. 

( country-, young plants are easily obtained. 

Siderodendrum Peat and loam Cuttings will root, hut require time. 

Sloanea .... Loam and prat Ripened cuttings root freely. 



THE STOVE. 



45 



Soil. Mode of Propagation. 

Solandra Peat and loam readily by cuttings, either of the young or 

( old wood. 

Solanum Peat and loam Cuttings, of most of the species strike freely. 

Sophora Peat and loam, By cuttings. 

Spermacoce . . .Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Spilauthes . . .Rich light soil Either by seeds or cuttings. 

Spondias Loam and peat ^ Large pieces of the shoots made into cuttings, 

( root freely. 

Stachytarpheta Rich soil Cuttings strike root freely. 

Stapelia Lime rubbish (Cuttings root most freely, but require to be 

( partially dried before planting. 

Starkea Peat and loam By cuttings. 

Stelis Turfy peat By dividing them at the roots. 

Sterculia Light loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Stilago Light loam By cuttings. 

Stillingia Loam and peat By cuttings. 

r Seeds are obtained by assisting the impregua- 

Strelitzia Light sandy loam } ^'"^"^ ""^^^^ P^^"^' ^''^ obtained, and 

) rooted suckers are often to be had from the 
^ old plants. 

Strophauthus . , Peat and loam Cuttings of the young wood root freely. 

Swietenia . . . .Peat and loam Ripened cuttings root, but not freely. 

Tabernae- ) Loam and peat By cuttings. 

montana ) 

Tacca Peat and loam By suckers from the roots. 

Talinum Sandy loam Cuttings root freely. 

Tamariudus . .Loam and peat By cuttings and seeds, which are often imported. 

Tecoma Rich loam """^"^^ ^^'^ "^^^"^ 

( young wood. 

Tectona Loam and peat Ripened cuttings root freely. 

Terminalia. . . .Sandy loam Ripened cuttings root freely. 

Tetranthera ...Light loam Cuttings of the ripened wood root freely. 

Theobroma .... Light rich soil By cuttings. 

Theophrasta . . Sandy loam Cuttings, with their leaves entire, will root freely. 

Thunbergia. . .Loam and peat Readily by seeds and cuttings. 

Tillandsia . . . .Parasitical By suckers. 

Tournefortia . .Rich loam Cuttings root freely. 

Tradescantia .Sandy loam By seeds, and by dividing at the roots. 

Trevirana .... Sandy loam By dividing the roots. 

Trewia Loam and peat Cuttings root freely. 

Trichilia Loam and peat Cuttings root, if kept in a good heat. 

Triopteris . . . .Sandy loam and peat . .Ripened cuttings will root readily. 

Triphasia . . . .Turfy loam Half- ripened cuttings root freely. 

Triumfetta. . . .Loam and peat By seeds and cuttings. 

Turnera Light loam By seeds and cuttings freely. 

Unoua Light loam Ripened cuttings root freely. 

IJrauia Rich loam "^^^^^ ^''^ ^^^^^ imported, and it «ill 

* ( sometimes produce suckers. 



46 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 





Boll 
BO II. 


Mode of i^upagation 








, , , Bv feeds, and also by cuttings. 








. . Ripened cuttings strike root iu a good heat. 


Vm^ta 




• . • liy cuttings. 








, . .Bv cuttings. 








. . . Readilr bv cuttings. 








. . .By cuttings. 








. . .By cuttings. 








. . . By cuttings. 




Vulkaineria ., 




... Cuttings root readily. 








. .Cuttings strike root frcelr. 




^\'iLheringia . , 




, . .Propagated bv cuttings of the young wood. 


\\'rightia .... 




. . .Bv cuttings of the half ripe wood. 






, . . Ilalf-ripeued cuttings succeed best. 








. , By cuttings. 








By dividing at the root*. 








, . , Ripened cuttings succeed best. 








/•Some of the spt-cies by dividing at 


the 






. . . ^ aiid others by entail knobii which 


groi 






(. the principal roots. 




Zanthoxylum 




. . By ciittings. 








. . . By dividing them at the root. 








, . . Dy cutting«c 








. . .By cuttings. 





47 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The term nursery, when applied to matters relating to 
horticulture, is understood to refer either to the commercial or 
public nursery, wherein are cultivated trees, plants, and often- 
times seeds, for the purpose of sale ; or to the private nursery, 
in which trees and plants are propagated and reared by the 
proprietor, for the purpose of enriching or beautifying his 
park or domain, or for extending his plantations with a view 
to ultimate profit, and increasing the value of his estate. The 
spirit for planting has very much increased in this country 
within the last sixty or seventy years ; and we find during that 
period, that the minds of men conspicuous for their learning, 
and admired for their virtues and patriotism, have been enthu- 
siastically attached to this pursuit, and the beneficial effects 
of their labours are, and will remain, monuments of their 
good policy, long after they themselves have " reached that 
bourne from which no traveller returns." 

The beneficial effects of planting have long ago been suffi- 
ciently demonstrated to be attended with a certain and pro- 
gressive increase of any given capital employed in it, and con- 
sidered either individually or generally, must, in most cases, 
reward the speculator, although at a more remote period, 
with a far more certain return than almost any other specu- 
lation in which he can embark. Considered as a national 
advantage, planting must rank high in the list of improve- 
ments, and be indispensable in such countries as our own, the 
glory and independence of which depend so much on the 
strength of our navy and extension of conmiercial shipping. 
Our boasted oaks have been the envy and dread of our ene- 
mies, and the bulwarks of our safety, when invasion was 
threatened by the combined powers of ahnor^t the whole of 



48 THE PRACTICAL GARDrNER. 

Europe. We arc informed by Evelyn, the celebrated author 
of Sylva, that tlie connnanders of the Spanish Armada had 
positive directions, that if, when Lmded, they shoukl not be 
able to conquer this country, they were not to leave a tree 
standing in the forest of Dean, thinking that, by destroying 
that national forest, to weaken our maritime means of defence, 
and render us an easier prey to a future invasion. Britain 
has always been plentifully stocked with timber, and abounded, 
till the time of the civil wars, with natural forests of great 
extent ; for we learn, at the time of the compilation of Dooms- 
day-Book, that timber was not valued by measurement or 
quality; but the forests by the number of swine that could be 
maintained on the acorns and mast which they produced. And 
a writer in the time of Edward the Fourth, about four hun- 
dred years after that period, says, that England was then a 
well-timbered country. 

It does not ajipear that previously to the beginning of the 
seventeenth century that })lanting was much attended to as 
a matter of rural economy, although it is certain that, for 
particular purposes, and in certain situations, a considerable 
number of trees must Jiave been planted long before that period. 
Between 15S8 and 1616, we meet with several authors on the 
subject of planting, and the management of forest and copse- 
woods ; and, as an anecdote connected with the horticuUural 
literature of this country, we may be excused for the follow- 
ing digression. 

In 1538, Benose published a work on timber and planting, 
which was followed by another by Fitzherbcrt, in 1539; 
and in 1(>07 appeared Sir John Norden's Surveyor's Dia- 
logue. In 1612 was published, Of planting and preserving 
of timber and fuel, an old thrift newly revived by R. C"; and 
in 1613, the year following, that by Arthur Standish, entitled, 
"Direction for planting timber and fire-wood." In Googe's 
Husbandry of 1611, Planting for timber and copse is par- 
ticularly noticed ; and Manwood's " Treatise on Forests, and 
their original and beginning," appeared in 1615; and that of 
Rathbone's Surveyor in 1616. At so early a period it is 
something singular, says an intelligent writer, there should 
appear so many works on a subject then so little generally 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



49 



attended to. Professor iMartyn conjectures this circumstance 
to have arisen from the general attack made on the forest- 
trees in the twenty-seventh year of Henry the Eighth, when 
that monarch dispersed the rehgious houses, and seized on the 
church lands ; for after this time, we find the consumption of 
oak timber to have greatly increased, not only in consequence 
of the extension of commerce, but of the great additions 
to the royal navy, and the more general adoption of that 
timber in the building of houses, &c. For as Holinshead, who 
lived in the succeeding reign, observes, " in times past, men 
even were contented to live in houses built of sallow, willow, 
&c., so that the use of oak was in a manner dedicated wholly 
unto churches, religious houses, princes' palaces, navigation, 
&c., but now nothing but oak is any where regarded." 

The publication of Evelyn's Sylva may be considered the 
grand impetus which exhibited a spirit for planting in this 
country, and the establishment of forest-tree nurseries which 
followed (during the seventeenth century), as a matter of, 
course facilitated its progress, the most antient of which, it 
may be observed, was that of Corbett, at Twickenham, and 
that of Loudon and Wise, at Brompton Park, which is still so 
respectably kept up. Individuals about this period saw the 
advantage of planting, and, breaking through the trammels 
of ignorance and sloth, commenced planting timber-trees, 
many of which still exist as monuments sacred to their me- 
mory. Before the establishment of nurseries, as above stated, 
such trees as were planted were procured from the natm-al 
forests and woods, and were those which accidentally sprang 
from seed. 

The encouragements held forth by the Society of Arts, which 
was established about the middle of the eighteenth century, 
contributed in a very important degree to promote a spirit 
for planting and the improvement of landed property. This, 
planting became fashionable, and being noticed and jiatronized 
by the gi-eat, soon made rapid strides in improvement. The 
appearance of the Sylva, edited by Dr. Hunter, became a 
second stimulus ; and the examples and precepts of Kennedy, 
Young, Marshall, and Pontey, as authors and practical men, 
together with the encouragement from such men as the Dukea 



50 



THE PKACTICAL GARDENER. 



of Argyle, and Athol, Earls of Haddington, Bute, Loudon, &c., 
and latterly from almost every country gentleman both in 
England and Scotland, that planting has now attained a posi- 
tion amongst the liberal sciences, that renders it a pleasing, 
profitable, and honourable employment to the great, and a 
source fraught with considerable advantages to the poor, whose 
state is ameliorated by the employment it affords, and the 
means of atibrdin*r not only comfortable dwellings, but also 
abundance of fuel, which is sufHciently a})j)reciated in those 
countries, where coal is either dear or not to be obtained. 
The ci\vct which planting has in the improvement of our climate 
is sufHciently obvious to the most superficial observer, and the 
improvement of the general appearance of the surface, in a 
picturesque point of view, cannot but awaken pleasing asso- 
ciations in the mind of every man, who is not, like the great 
lexicographer, predetermined to hate every thing vegetable, 
and who can travel from Dan to Bersheba without once seeing 
beauty in a single tree. 

Agriculture is improved by the shelter afforded by plan- 
tations both to the cattle and grain crops, and evidently derives 
much assistance from the facility which they aflbrd of sub- 
dividing property and fields. Architecture, both civil and 
military, has never to dread a want of materials, while that 
spirit is fostered and promulgated ; but a neglect of it would 
be fatal to both, and the cflccts of a decay in our maritime power, 
would, in all probability, end in the subjugation of our free- 
dom as a great and free people, and probably the blotting 
out of our name as the greatest of all nations, 

FORMATION OF A FORtST-TREE NURSERY. 

Proprietors who intend to improve their estates by planting, 
should, and many have proved the truth of the assertion, 
rear their own timber-trees from seeds, upon their own pro- 
perty, if their intention be to plant extensively, not only as an 
object of econoiliy, but also as a matter of convenience. This 
doctrine has met with the most strenuous opposition, and many 
discouraging obstacles have been held out to those who pur- 
posed to adopt it. But it should be remembered that that op- 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



51 



position was made by those, who considered their own private 
interests and emoluments to be at stake. Times are now much 
changed, and men see, and are disposed to act more Hberally in 
this respect; and we find most of our great planters originat- 
ing their own trees for their own use, notwithstanding that 
they can be, in many cases, purchased cheaper from the com- 
mercial nurserymen than they can be reared by the proprietor. 
This was not the case twenty or thirty years ago, and at that 
period, a vast annual sum passed from the hands of the planter 
to the nurseryman ; and, as a consequence which might be ex- 
pected, opposition and party-spirit followed, and in the end 
trees could be purchased at, nearly 50 per cent, cheaper than 
they were formerly sold for. 

This may be attributed to a class of needy men, who, taking 
the advantage of the planting mania, established themselves 
over the country, and by underselling the regular and respect- 
able nurserymen, who had both credit and honor at stake, 
reduced the confidence of land-owners in them to that ebb, that 
for a time lands were planted by those who presented the 
lowest estimate. A system of this description was productive 
of both good and evil, for, in the first place, it acted as a stimu- 
lus to the more expeditious propagation of trees, and conse- 
quently of affording them to be sold at a much lower price, and 
this has ever since continued to be the case. But, upon the 
other hand, the evil which followed, was the total disappoint- 
ment of those proprietors who planted upon this cheap system, as 
few of them, after several years planting and re-planting, had, 
in the end, a tithe of the trees so planted on their land. Dis- 
appointed in this manner, many established private nurseries of 
their own, and by degrees were able to supply their own de- 
mand ; and where these were conducted on good principles, the 
result was highly satisfactory to themselves and an example 
which others followed. Such may be considered as the origin 
of private jmrseries. 

While the high price of trees continued, many landed pro- 
prietors were deterred from planting so extensively as they in- 
tended, in consequence of exorbitant charges ; and when the 
low prices became prevalent, and a certain class of nurserymen 
became cheap contractors, not only for the supply of the plants, 



52 



TIIK PK AC TICAL GAIiDKNKR. 



but also for tlic planting, and, in many cases, for tlic enclosing 
and draining of the land, another evil followed, and of far worse 
consequences, namely, that the ground, in many cases, was not 
half planted; bad trees were used, and sorts unfit for the va- 
rious soils operated on, were injudiciously planted where they 
should not have been ; and, to crown the whole, sorts were 
planted which were in the gi*eatest abundance, either in the 
estimation or stock of the contractor, without any regard to the 
interest of the proprietor, who, after a number of years of 
anxious expectation of having fine healthy plantations stocked 
with the trees of greatest value, found that he had his soil 
cumbered with Scotch fir, and probably larch, without a single 
oak or ash on an acre. 

Before proceeding further, we beg most distinctly to be un- 
derstood, that these remarks are not levelled indiscriminately at 
nurserymen in general, but to those who, by selling at a lower 
price than can cover the expense of rearing the trees in a pro- 
per manner, are without principle induced to adopt measures to 
ensure a sufficient profit for themselves, at the proprietors' ex- 
pense and disappointment. Against these men, landed pro- 
prietors cannot be too sufficiently guarded. From our own 
knowledge, there are few professions in life wherein a greater 
number of respect;ible, honest, and honorable men are to be 
found, than in that of nurserymen ; but in this, as in all others, 
there are some of the above description, always ready to con- 
tract to plant and supi)ly at prices which no discrete man can 
afl^brd to do, without entailing upon himself a serious loss 
either of capital or credit. These are our views of the founda- 
tion of private nurseries in general, although some few proprie- 
tors, for the gi'atification of peculiar fancies, have and still con- 
tinue to rear their own trees ; still by far the greater number 
have been induced to do so to prevent disappointment and im- 
position. 

Proprietors who intend to plant should either rear their own 
trees under the direction of their gardener or forester, or else 
))urchase them at once from a respectable commercial nursery- 
man, and have the planting executed by labourers on their own 
estates, and under the direction of a person competent to the 
charge. There is no i)art of forest-tree planting that should be 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



53 



let by the task or piece, excepting it be the cleaning, di'aining, 
trenching of tlie ground, and the digging the pits for the trees. 
The very best trees should be chosen, and as good trees cannot 
be reared but at a very considerable expense, a liberal price 
should be given. Many, however, thinking to act with gi'eat 
economy, purchase their trees from itinerant nurserymen, and 
from such as offer plants at an unreasonably low price ; such 
persons, therefore, may to a certainty expect to be disap- 
pointed. It should also be considered, that in regard to trees, 
as is the case in all other marketable commodities, there are 
high and low prices fixed, according to the value of the goods. 
When a liberal price is offered, good trees can always be pro- 
cured ; and we are confident that every respectable nurseryman 
feels more satisfaction at sending out good plants to his cus- 
tomers than bad ones ; and we are also confident that good trees 
from the nursery, although high in price, are always much 
cheaper in the end than bad ones, which are got for nothing. 

Local situation has also some effect in inducing our recom- 
mendations of private nurseries, for when trees are brought a 
great distance, the expense must be considerable, and the injury 
that they sustain no less so, from being a length of time out of 
the ground. In many sequestered situations, particularly in the 
north of Scotland, in Ireland, and Wales, where planting may be 
in progi'ess, many unforeseen obstacles may delay the arrival of 
trees at their destination, several weeks after they have been 
taken up in the nursery ; and, in these cases, a considerable 
number of trees are generally ordered at the same time, many 
of which often remain unplanted for three months ; laid (as it is 
technically called) in by the heels, and not unfrequently in bun- 
dles of from five hundred to a thousand trees each, closely tied 
together. There are few places where it is difficult to procure 
plenty of men to assist in planting, but we have always found it 
better to continue the season of planting to a greater length of 
time, than to employ too many hands, many of whom never 
planted a tree before in their life. For these, and other reasons 
of an equally important nature, we would recommend the form- 
ing private nurseries near to where the scene of planting is to 
take place, as, by that means, the trees may be taken up ac- 
cordingly as they are wanted ; and it is reasonable to expect that 



51. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



such trees will be much more Hkely to succeed, than if they 
were carried five Imndred miles, and kept five or six weeks out 
of the ground. 

It has been advanced by many practical men, and, as Sang 
observes, Many are of that opinion still, that trees, in order 
to their bein^ rendered sufficiently hardy, should be reared on 
ihe soil, and in the situation where they are ultimately to be 
planted ; or at least in a soil and situation as nearly similar as 
possible." We know that this plan has been extensively prac- 
tised by those who are engaged in the extensive plantations 
carried on in the Forest of Dean, and other places, with the best 
eftect; but, as the intelligent author above-mentioned, further 
observes, If the soil and situation in which the trees are 
ultimately to be planted, be favorable, we can see no solid 
reason for objecting to such a plan, particularly if the design be 
extensive, and such as may require many years for its comple- 
tion ; because a conveniently situated nursery is, in that case, 
highly desirable, not only as saving the carriage of plants, and 
faciliating the business of transplanting, but as increasing the 
chance of success, on account of the plants remaining a much 
shorter time out of the ground than if brought from a distance. 
But if the situation ultimately designed for the trees be cold, 
high, and bleak, and the soil of course various, some good, 
and much of it bad, or of an indifferent (juality, there it would, 
by no means, be advisable to attempt the establishment of a 
nursery, and especially a nursery to raise plants from seeds." 

In the formation of a complete nursery, it is almost indispen- 
sible that the soil be of various qualities ; and when this is not 
naturally the case, it must, to a certain extent, be made so by 
artificial means. But as natural soils are to be preferred, some 
care ought to be taken in the selection ; and, as it is somewhat 
different in this case from that of a kitchen or fruit-garden, 
where it would be extremely inconvenient to have it in detached 
pieces, we cannot see any objection to have several small nur- 
series instead of one large one, if the natural character of the 
soils be sufficiently various to admit of this arrangement. Thus 
a moist piece of ground might be enclosed for peculiar species, 
a piece of bog or peat soil for others, and one of land of a light 
loamy texture for a third. Strong, rich alluvial soils, wc con- 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



55 



sider would, in many cases, be too good for rearing forest-trees 
in, although extremely well calculated for that of fi-uit-trees 
and many kinds of shrubs. A poor barren heath, with suffi- 
ciency of peat earth on the surface, on which heath. Erica 
vulgaris^ &c. grows luxuriantly, or a soil of decayed vegetable 
remains, denominated peat, although rather moist, would be a 
suitable nursery for the majority of American trees and shrubs ; 
light friable, or light sandy loam, would be well calculated for 
forest-trees in general. 

In regard to the depth of soil, we may say from one to two 
feet, are sufficient for the generality of plants, but none, if it 
can be avoided, should be less than one foot ; and, as the first 
step towards its formation, draining, if it be necessary, and en- 
closing in all cases, should be first and strictly attended to. 
Young trees will not succeed, with a few exceptions, in wet 
ground, nor can seeds ever be expected to vegetate in it, al- 
though the very plants that spring from them may, at a future 
period, prosper to the extent of our wishes in very moist situa- 
tions. Water, if possible, should be retained in tanks or small 
ponds, if it exist in the ground, but if not, it should be brought 
in pipes, or by other means, as, at the season of planting, and 
sometimes during dry summers, it is almost indispensable. In 
regard to enclosing, it is of the first consequence, not only suf- 
ficient to guard against the inroads of cattle, &c., but against 
the no less destructive quadrupeds, the hare and rabbit, which 
it is difficult to exclude, and which are very destructive to 
almost every species of tree in their young state. In countries 
where stone is abundant, walls of five or six feet will be more 
durable and impenetrable ; and where such materials are not 
naturally to be had, pales of oak, or other durable timber, 
should be substituted; in the latter case, the ends of the pales 
should be let in a foot at least under the surface, for the better 
exclusion of rabbits. Where nurseries are intended for the 
exclusive purpose of rearing forest-trees, any artificial shelter is 
probably unnecessary, and is, when too much indulg(^d, inju- 
rious ; but such as are for the purpose of cultivating more 
delicate plants, shrubs, or fruit-trees, some attention ought to 
be paid either to select a sheltered spot, or to provide shelter 
by planting, &c. 



50 



Tin: PRACTICXL GARDF.NF.n. 



A nursery in a private establishment may, with nmcli pro- 
priety, answer the two-fold purpose of a nursery and auxiliary 
kitchen-garden ; and, by a judicious arrangement of rotiition of 
crops, would be beneficial to both. The ground which has 
been under forest-trees two, three, or more years, is, with the 
addition of a little manure, in excellent condition for the majo- 
rity of culinary vegetables ; and the cultivation of them in their 
turn, renders the soil in good condition for sccd-bcds, or for 
transplanting seedling-trees. ^^ e should observe, however, 
that potatoes should not precede a crop of seedling-trees, as it is 
with great diOiculty that all of them are got out of the ground 
when the crop is removing, and those which are left will shoot 
up in the spring, and their removal will seriously injure the 
seedling-trees. Peas that have not been staked, but allowed 
to lie on the ground, are a good preparatory crop for seedlings, 
as they tend to clear the ground of weeds, by smothering them 
during summer. Carrots, onions, and similar crops, particu- 
larly the former, are excellent preparatory crops ; the neces- 
sary hoeing or weeding also cleans the ground. 

By a rotation of this sort, nursery ground will seldom require 
trenching after its formation, as a constant change of crops, 
with slight manurings, will be always sufficient. In regard to 
the rotation of crops, Sang has the following excellent remarks, 
which, although dillering from our own opinion and practice in 
the exclusion of carrots as a preparatory crop, we give it with 
))leasure, and with all due deference, knowing, as we do in this 
instance, that we diller in opinion from one who has had such 
extensive practice in this branch of rural economy, and from 
whose writings we have derived much information. There 
is one kind of crop," he observes, *' which we judge peculiarly 
scourging for a nursery, and that is carrots ; they are indeed 
rather severe for most lands, but we have seldom found a good 
crop of trees following one of carrots, while we have found 
peas, beans, and especially lettuces, easy and enriching crops, 
well adapted as preparers for succeeding crops of nursery 
articles. In so far as regards public nurseries, we had long 
remarked that those which partake as much of the character of 
market gardens as nurseries, generally produce the best seed- 
lings, and young articles for sale, provided that the ground be 



NURSERY AND PLANllNG. 



57 



any thing more than of a middling quality. This-fact, if one 
were wanting, is a sufficient proof of the utility of occupying 
the ground as above advised, in the double character of a kit- 
chen-garden and nursery." 

The foregoing remarks are applicable only to such nurseries 
as are witliin the park, or contiguous to some part of the do- 
main, and in which sufficiency of young stock may be reared 
for the most extensive plantations. A few hints may be here 
useful in regard to nurseries at a greater distance from home, 
and intended for containing the trees, from the time of their 
being put out in nursery lines to their final transplantation. 
The situation of such nurseries is generally on or near the spot 
intended to be planted, and are not to be considered as of so 
permanent a nature as the home-nursery already noticed. A 
somewhat sheltered spot should also be chosen for this kind of 
nursery, and the soil, though poor, should be easily worked, in 
order to facilitate the operations of hoeing and cleaning. It is 
also of much consequence that such a spot be enclosed, suf- 
ficient at least to keep out cattle, if not hares and rabbits also. 
Here the young trees brought from the home-nursery, when 
fit to transplant into nursery lines, or to bed out, should be 
cultivated, till of sufficient size to plant out permanently. The 
preparation necessary for such a piece of ground consists in 
draining and trenching, or deep ploughing, which latter opera- 
tion should be performed at least three times during the sum- 
mer previously to planting, and be repeatedly harrowed, to 
break the surface sufficiently fine to receive the young seedling 
plants. Shelter may be obtained to such a nursery, first, by 
the selection of a spot naturally sheltered by rising grounds and 
fully exposed to the sun ; or, secondly, by planting quick-grow- 
ing hedges, both as a boundary fence, and also for subdividing 
the enclosed space into convenient departments. The sorts of 
trees best calculated for these fences, are poplar of any sort^ 
spruce, fir, elder, or privet. Larch has often been used for 
this purpose, but is justly condemned by Sang and other nur- 
serymen, as being liable to be overrun with the Coccus larixeo, 
an insect peculiar to this tree, and which not only destroys those 
which might be used for shelter, but would, to a certainty, in- 
fect the young plants of that tree in the nursery lines. Spruce 

* i 



58 



THE rRACTlCAL GARDENER. 



being evergreen, is, of all others, the best calculated for this 
purpose, as aftbrding shelter in winter and spring, when it is 
the most required. 

Unless the ground be very poor indeed, we would say that 
manure was unnecessary for such a nursery as that in view ; but 
if it be considered rather poor, lime, chalk, or marl, would be 
beneficial ; and, indeed, we think either preferable to animal 
manures of any kind, in almost all cases, for nurseries. 

In the subdivil^ion of nursery, gi-ounds, it is essentially ne- 
cessary that walks be introduced, not only for the purpose of 
dividing it into regular quarters or pieces, but also for the con- 
venience allbrded by them, of enabling the owner or operatives 
to get to the different parts without difficulty, and without in- 
jury to the crops. A broad walk, sufficient for a cart, should 
surround the whole extent, and also intersect it at convenient 
distances, to facilitate the bringing in of manure, and the taking 
out the trees, &c. 

P R E LI M I N A R V OCS E R V ATI O N S. 

In offi^ring the following remarks on the rearing and planting 
of trees, it may be necessary to observe, that the subject being 
so interesting, and embracing such a variety of objects, it 
cannot be so amply detailed in the following pages as could be 
wished, in consequence of the necessity of our being confined 
to certain limits ; we will, therefore, endeavour to restrict our- 
selves to those parts of their culture which are most conducive 
to success, and chiefly treat on those parts most likely to 
be of use to the practical man. 

In the arrangement of the matter, we shall consider each 
mdividual genus under separate heads, and adopt the alpha- 
betical order of their names, as being the most perspicuous, 
and presenting greater fiicility of reference. It shall also be 
our endeavour to point out the soils suitable for each ; their 
mode of originating, whether by seeds, layers, cuttings, Sec. ; 
their nursery culture, and their final transplantation ; offering 
occasionally any thing new, curious, or interesting in their 
physiology, size, &c. 



NURSERY AND PLANTING, 



59 



Acacia. — (See Locust-tree.) 

Alder,— {Alnus,) 

The common Alder (Alnus gliitinosd) is a native of Britain, 
and abounds naturally in wet boggy soils, and by the sides of 
rivers and lakes. It is, however, found to grow upon soils 
that are high and even dry, but not with that degree of luxu- 
riance that it attains in soils of a moist nature. It seldom suc- 
ceeds in chalky or calcareous soils ; indeed, in such it can 
scarcely be said to live. It is well calculated to plant by the 
sides of rapid running streams, or large rivers, as from the 
multiplicity of its roots, which also extend a great way, it is 
of much use in binding the banks together, and preventing them 
from being carried away by the stream. 

Alder is a tree easily propagated, succeeding well by cuttings of 
a large size planted in spring, where it is intended they are to 
remain, or, in common with almost all trees, from seeds, which 
vegetate freely if sown in a rather moist soil. The seeds ripen 
in October, and should then be gathered, making choice of 
a dry day for the purpose, which should be invariably attended 
to in all cases of seed-gathering, as entailing less trouble in 
drying them, and guarding against damaged seeds. The 
seeds are extracted by laying the cones upon a floor in a dry 
loft, and by frequently turning them, the seeds will fall out ; 
or the cones may be thrashed, and the seeds separated by 
sifting. When cleaned, they should be kept in sacks till the 
spring, when they may be sown in March or the beginning of 
April. In preparing the ground for alder-seed, care should 
be taken to render it smooth and even, as the seeds are small 
and liable to be buried too deep; the beds should be four 
feet wide, and of the length of the quarter or piece of ground, 
or less if required. In regard to the quantity of seed to a 
given space of ground, it would be difficult to determine, as, 
like some other forest-tree seeds similar to it, it is difficult to 
ascertain the real quality of alder-seed ; however, it is always 
better to sow thick in such doubtful cases, in order to ensure 
a crop. Alder-seeds are by some sown in autumn, as soon aa 



GO 



t:i:: r:i actical gardener. 



patluMod, but this is not advisable, as they are very liable to 
be injured by the vernal frosts ; and, independently of this 
risk, nothiniT in point of strength is gained by the plants. 
As ihe soil for sowing alder-seeds should be rather damp, the 
youni^ plants arc often liable to be thrown out by frosts during 
the winter, care, therefore, should be taken when this is likely to 
occur, to deepen the alleys or footpaths between the beds, in 
order to allow the superfluous water a free channel for passing 
otf; and as a farther means of preventing this evil, tanners* 
bark very much decayed, or rotten saw-dust may be sprinkled 
over the surface, but if this can be avoided, so much the 
better, for neither adds to the fertility of the soil, and unless 
very much decomposed, is evidently injurious to it. 

Alders, when one year old, that is, the plants which were 
originated from seeds in spring, should be gone over the following 
sprintr, and all the strongest plants taken carefully up, so as 
neither to injure themselves nor the remaining crop of weaker 
seedlings, which are left in the seed-bed to gain strength for 
another season. Previously to the plants being taken up, the 
ground should Ix^ got reach', into which they are to be trans- 
planted out to nurse. In clu>osi ng ground for this purpose, a 
loose and rather a moist sandy or boggy soil should be pre- 
ferred. Rut a strong clay, or dry burning gravelly or sandy 
soil should be invariably rejected, as being alike uncongenial 
to their welfare. When the ground is j)re})ared, they should 
be set out at twelve inches between the lines, and four or five 
between the jilants. For plants of two years' growth, that is, 
those which were left in the seed-bed one year longer than the 
above, more room should be allowed them, and they should 
not be planted closer than fifteen inches between the lines, 
and six inches from plant to plant in the lines. This latter 
distance should also be allowed to those one-year old seed- 
lings which are intended to remain two years in the nursery- 
lines. The routine of after-culture consists in keeping the 
ground perfectly clear of weeds, as nothing impoverishes the 
ground so much as allowing them to grow unmolested, and 
not only their robbing the plants of their due share of nourish- 
nirnt, but in cases where this is not strictly attended to, the 
plants are literally smothered with them. Of this we had last 



NURSERY- AND PLANTING. 



61 



year a very striking instance in regard to a very considerable 
piece of ground occupied by the plant in question, when we 
took the charge of a very extensive nursery of forest-trees, 
where the weeds were allowed to gain such a head that the 
scythe had to be employed to keep the coarse grasses and 
weeds as low as the tops of the trees ; the consequence of 
which was, that out of fifty or sixty thousand alders that had 
been planted, not more than as many hundreds could be 
gathered out of the whole, and, independently of the loss of 
the trees, the ground had to be trenched and otherwise ma- 
naged, as if it had never been in a state of cultivation. Hoeing, 
if taken in time, is a very simple process in horticulture, and if 
soon done, and well done, is easily done ; but, notwithstanding 
this is acknowledged by every cultivator, it is strange to see 
how little it appears to be practised. 

Alders, after standing from two to three years in nursery- 
lines, are very fit for final transplanting ; but, if left longer 
than three years, they should be taken up and replanted in lines, 
at double the distance. This tree, like many others, will suc- 
ceed well if planted young ; and, in such cases, will make good 
progress if kept clear of wet ds. But it possesses this advan- 
tage over many others, that it will transplant with safety when 
of a large size. The banks of rivers, and low swampy soils, 
where only it should be planted, are very liable to be covered 
with luxuriant vegetation ; therefore, before planting young- 
trees of this sort, the ground should be properly cleared and 
kept so till the trees become established, and above the reach 
of danger. Where this is not convenient, and we know there 
are many instances of that kind, larger trees should be used ; 
and if carefully planted, will succeed as well as those planted 
younger, and where much expense has been incurred in trench- 
ing and manuring the soil. 

This tree, under the most favorable circumstances, attains 
only a middle size ; it is deciduous, and sometimes assumes 
rather a picturesque outline ; is of rapid growth, when pro- 
perly situated, and affording a considerable bulk of fuel, if 
managed in the copse manner, that is, cut over at stated pe- 
riods. The timber is not reckoned valuable, but is used by 
turners, &c., and by carpenters, for roofing and flooring teni- 



THE PRACTICAL GARDEN i:R. 



})or;iry buildings. It has considerable claims to merit for 
durability in wet situations, and is therefore much used for 
supporting the roofs of coal and iron-mines, and also for em- 
bankments by the sides of ponds and rivers. The bark con- 
tains a considerable degree of astringency, and is used in the 
process of tanning leather, and by the native highlanders, in 
dying their tartan and other woollen stufis. Charcoal is 
made of the wood, which is considered excellent in the manu- 
facture of gunpowder. According to Evelyn, the oldest boats 
we read of, Noah's Ark excepted, were made of this wood ; 
and this appears confirmed, by the following line of \'irgil: — 

" And (h)\\n the rapid Po light nlders glide." 

\ itruvius asserts, that the morasses round Revanna, in Italy, 
were piled with this wood, to support the foundations of their 
buildings. 

Of this genus, there are eleven sjK^cies enumerated in tlx* 
Ilortus Brittanicus, nine of which are natives of lun-ope, and 
two of North America. There are none of tlieui but can be 
readily propagated by cuttings, and the most of them by 
seeds; nor are they cultivated with us with any view to utility, 
no farther than being considered ornaments to the park, lawn, 
or shrubbery. 

Asii. — {Fra.v'nuis) 

The common ash, Frax 'tnus twcchior, is a native of Britain, 
and is always found in the greatest perfection on dry loamy 
soils ; and although its growth is, in such situations, less rapid 
than when in moist damp soils, it attains in them a greater age, 
and ultimately a larger size, and the wood is much more valuable. 
In wet soils, although, while young, it appears to be healthy 
and vigorous, still it will decay before it attains a useful size. 
In over rich soils the wood is seldom good, being short and 
brittle, but in sandy soils it is tough, and therefore of much 
more value. Strong clays are, of all others, the least calculated 
for its growth. 

A prejudice appears to exist, by which the ash is almost ex- 
cluded from forming a part of park scenery, some objecting to it 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



63 



on account of its lateness in coming into leaf in the spring; 
others because it sheds them too soon, and others deny it any 
elegance of outline, with many more objections to which it ap- 
pears to be unfortunately liable ; be this, however, as it may, 
it is evident that this prejudice has existed for ages, for in ge- 
neral there are few trees of this kind to be met with in parks, 
where the other timber-trees appear to luxuriate. 

The ash is propagated by seeds, which are annually pro- 
duced in vast quantities, and vegetate freely. The seeds are 
ripe in October, and should then be collected and carried to a 
convenient part of the nursery, and laid in a flat heap, mixed 
with light sandy earth ; care, however, must be taken that they 
be not laid too thick, for if this be not attended to, there is dan- 
ger to be apprch(Midcd from fermentation, to which they are 
liable when laid in too great a quantity together. To prevent 
too rapid a state of fermentation, they should be frequently 
turned while in this state ; and when all danger of ferment- 
ation is over, they may be covered up till wanted for sowing. 
Some sow these seeds the spring subsequent to the gather- 
ing, others not until the autumn, and others not until the 
second spring following. Seeds of many trees may be kept in 
the rot-pit, as it is called, one or two, or even more years, with- 
out their vegetating, provided that they be excluded from the 
action of air and warmth. 

Any part of the nursery, if not too wet, is suitable for sowing 
the seeds of this tree, as it is hardy and not liable to lose its 
vegetating principle. Before the operation of sowing is in- 
tended, the ground should be regularly dug and levelled, and if 
in a very poor state a little manure may be applied. When 
the ground is dug, the whole sliould be divided into beds of 
four feet in breadth, and on them the seeds should be sown, 
and regularly covered to the depth of half an inch, or rather 
more. Some nurserymen sow in broad drills, as is often prac- 
tised for spinach in tjie kitchen-garden, and, by this means, the 
seedling plants have a greater share of air than when in broad 
beds, particularly when they come up thick, and are not thinned 
out sufKciently soon. During their stay in the seed-beds, they 
should be regularly weeded, which is all that is recpiired till 
they be lit fur tran:?planting out into nursery lines, which will 



G4 



Tin: III ACTUAL (.AIIDF.NER. 



be the ease the sprin-; after sowiii*'. As \ve ohserveil in rei^ard 
to alders of the same age, the stronj^cst of these also shouUl be 
selected first, and transphuUed, which will nt)t oidy improve 
themselves, but also be of much service to the smaller ones re- 
maining in the seed-bed. In regard to the distance at which 
they should l)e planted, one foot or fourteen inches will be 
sufticient between the lines, and from four to six inches from 
plant to jdant. Iloeing and cleaning the ground must be at- 
tended to between the lines, and the seed-beds must also be 
kept perfectly free of weeds. \N hen ash-trccs attain the height 
of from eighteen inches to three or four feet, they are fit for final 
planting out, where they are to remain, and, like the alder, 
may be planted of a large size with success. In grounil i)re- 
pared for planting l)y ploughing or trencliing, small plants may 
be advantageously used, but when this precaution has not been 
attended to, and the ground is rough and foul, the larger plants 
slu)uKl only be used. No doubt can exist that land trenched, 
and otherwise prepared, w ill be more congenial to the first pro- 
gress of any tree ; but it is seldom possible, we may say, to 
trench and numure land upon an extensive scale for the mere 
purpose of planting ; and it is to be (piestioned if the su|)erior 
growth of the plantation would pay more than the interest of 
the outlay. As for manuring land intended for extensive plant- 
ation, we confess we can see no real utility in it, were it pos- 
sible even to procure manure in sullicitMit (juantity. A super- 
abundance, or I ven a sufiiciency of manure, is oidy to be (ob- 
tained round great and populous cities ; and, unfortunately, for 
those who recommend this practice, there is little ground in 
such neighbourhoods likely to be planted with forest-trees 
while capable of proilucing corn and hay. Upon small planta- 
tions, in rich and highly cultivated countries, this practice may 
probably be attended with advantages which can never be 
brought io bear on poor and mountainous tracts of land, where 
all the maiun e capable of being made is I'ound scarcely sufiicient 
for turnips, potatoes, wheal, and biirley, crops of more imme- 
diate value ; and when the surface strata are such that it is often 
no easy matter to lind soil enough between the fragments of 
rocks wherein to plant the trees, yet, in such situations, plant- 
ations have arisen within the last sixty years of thousands of 



NMiSIKY AND I'LANIINU. 



65 



acres in oxtcnl, aiul stocked willi cvoiy species of tree <^enci ally 
cultivated with a view to j)r()ilt or utility in this couutiy. The 
extensive and tln-ivin_i»- plantations of the Duke ol* Athol, (he 
Earl ot'Braedalhane, and other proprietors, who have planted 
on the most ruo«^ed and barren hills, bear suilicient eviilence of 
the truth of this assertion, 'I'hose who have extolUnl the su- 
periority of expensive plantin";, are, for (lie most |)ai ( , plan(ei s 
in miniature, who, in plantiuL* hall'-a-dD/en acres, have lavished 
away a few poinids ; anil who, like a C("r(ain ^reat horticulturist 
of the present day, have treated with coii(cnip( (lieuiore rational 
and substantial niethods which have been sanctioned by I'X- 
])erience, and crowned with success, and which they have 
vainly tried to turn into ridicule. IMautiiii;" must always be con- 
sidered as an appropriation of a certain ca|)ital laid out by the 
owner of land, with a view to ultimate profit and rej)ayment. 
With this view, such land oidy should Ix; planted (ha( is in- 
caj^able of producing a more certain and <^reater produce. As 
it is no inconsiderable sum that is required to plant extensively, 
we ougiit to stiuly the most economical mode of proceeding; and 
no one who attempts to plant to a f^reat extent will ever, we 
think, attempt trenchin^^ and manuring liis n;round. 

As to final situation, the ash deserves a t^ood soil, and not to 
be planted in (juaf^mires, or on ])lcak bancn sides of hills, as 
we have freijuently observed, for in such situations the tind)er 
never can, nor will be ^^ootl. It is said to impoverish the soil 
very nuich, and therelbre (o be unlit for hednc-row tiud)er ; 
it were to be wished (hat the same i'ault coidd be discovered in 
every other tind)er-tree planted in similar situations, (or then 
we mi<;ht entertain sojue hope of beiii;^- relieveil from seeing, 
mile after mile for a long jounu^y, those poor nnitilated, dis- 
torted looking things called hedge-row timber-trees, by which 
many parts of tlu; kingdom are so very conspicuously dis- 
figured. 

'J'he valuable uses to which the ash is ap)>lied are so numer- 
ous as to be with difficulty ernmierated. It may be Jiotcd, 
however," says a writer on this sid)ject, *• that tlie ash possesses 
a very singular properly, namely, that of being in ])erfectioii 
even in infancy, no other tree becoming so soon useful. A pole 
three inches in diameter, is as valuable and durable for any 

* K 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



purpose to which it can be appHed to, as the timber of the 
largest tree. The plough and cart-wright, the coach-maker and 
cooper, are the chief consumers of ash-timber; thoufrh, in 
many parts of the country, it is hkewise used for various uten- 
sils, and for some articles of furniture. The ash aflbrds a 
greater quantity of pot-ash than any other sort of timber in this 
country." 

Of this genus there are thirty-six species enumerated in the 
Hortus Brittanicus, of which twenty-five are natives of North 
America, two natives of Britain, four not known, and the re- 
mainder of the Levant, Corsica, Aleppo, and Tauria. Of the 
American species, only four were introduced prior to the be- 
ginning of this century, and, consequently, the merits of the 
others, as timber-trees, have not yet been ascertained with us. 
The accounts, however, we have of them, are sufficiently flat- 
tering to lead us to hope that 'ere another century begins, we 
may have several species of them added to our British timber- 
trees. The F. exct'hior is the only one extensively cultivated 
for the value of its timber, but several of the others are suf- 
ficiently hardy, and of merits to demand the attention of planters. 
Most of the species perfect seeds, although not in this country, 
and are readily multiplied by that means. The varieties of F. 
excelsior, and those species which it is diflricult to procure 
seeds of, increase readily by grafting on the common ash. 



BKr.cii.— {Fafrus.) 

The beech {Fagus sylvatica) is also a native of our country, 
and is found naturally in sandy loams, and in calcareous soils, 
and abounds in many parts of Buckinghamshire and Hamp- 
shire, of a large size, in a natural state. It is found to prosper 
in almost all soils, but attains its greatest bulk, like the oak, in 
alluvial soils, in valleys near the sides of rivers. It will also 
become a valuable timber-tree amongst rocks and stones, where 
there is little mould to be seen ; and it thrives in strong reten- 
tive clayey soils, even although the sub-soil be spongy and wet ; 
but the most valuable timber-trees are found where it has been 
planted pretty thick, and drawn up to a tall straight trunk. It 
is one of the greatest ornaments to the park, the lawn, or the 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



67 



avenue, and, in the two former cases, assumes a very graceful 
habit and beautiful outline. The beec is propagated by seeds, 
which are called mastf and ripen in October. It should be 
gathered as soon as ripe, as it soon after falls, and is eaten by 
squirrels, mice, pheasants, and other animals. The seeds are 
contained in a capsule, which opens when ripe ; these are to 
be gathered as they fall or are shaken from the trees, and 
carried to a dry loft, when they will soon open, and the seeds 
can then be readily separated by sifting, which leaves it in a tit 
state, if dry, to be stored in till the spring. Nurserymen ge- 
nerally spread out the seed upon the floors of dry lofts, in pre- 
ference to keeping them in sacks, as they are apt to become 
musty when kept in the latter way. Traps should be con- 
tinually set during winter to protect it from mice and rats, both 
of which not only eat it on the spot, but carry it to their re- 
treats. 

In March, or the beginning of April, beech-seeds should 
be sown in beds, as already directed for alder and ash. The 
ground should be previously prepared by digging, and laid 
out in beds to the extent required : the seeds should not be 
sown too thick, as the leaves are pretty large, and the seeds, 
if well saved, will vegetate readily. When the sowing is 
finished, traps should be set for mice, and every precaution 
taken to keep off pheasants where they abound, for if they 
once get at them, it will be no easy matter to keep them off 
again. Weeding should be attended to during the summer, 
and by the following spring, many of the most forward plants 
will be fit to plant out into nursery lines. A precaution is 
very necessary to be used in taking up seedling beech, for, 
like the walnut, chestnut, and some others, they have long tap- 
roots, which are liable to be broken off in attempting to pull 
them up by the hand. A spade therefore should be used to 
loosen them at their roots, but this must be done in a prudent 
manner, and only applied along the edges of the beds, which 
will be found sufficient. When the strongest of the plants 
are thus taken up, the remainder should be regulated, if at 
all disturbed in the process, so as to prevent the admission of 
drought to their roots. The distance at which the seedHng 
beech, thus taken up, should be planted, may be the same as 
recommended for ash, and the same attention paid them 



(8 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



curing summer, as to cleaning, hoeing, and weeding. The 
Ibllowing spring the remainder should be taken from the 
>eed-beds, and in like manner planted out. Indeed, it is a 
rule from which only extraordinary circumstances can warrant 
a depiu iure, that all seedlings, when two years old, should 
be taken up; if this be not attended to, the roots become 
naked, and the fibres few in number. The beds at this time 
on which the seeds were sown may be all destroyed, for it is 
only in the case of thorns, hollies, and a few similar sorts, 
whose seeds sometimes continue to come up for two, three, or 
more years, after sowing, that any more plants can be expected 
after the second year. In taking up all i)lants from the seed- 
beds more attention is required than is usually paid to them. 
The spade should be judiciously used for the purpose of loosen- 
ing the soil, and the plants pulled up gently with all their fibres 
and roots uninjured, for although the trees of which we are 
now treating are hardy and indigenous, they are nevertheless 
tender and easily injured in their young state. As they are 
taken up from the seed-bed, they should be immediately laid 
in by the heels, unless the operation of transplantation goes 
on sufficiently fast to use them as they are taken up. They 
should certainly not be allowed to be on the surface in heaps, 
with their roots exposed to the frosty winds, which often pre- 
vail at this season, nor to the scorching rays of the noon- 
tide sun, which is equally injurious to them. The operation 
of transplanting would be more successfully done in damp 
showery days, provided the ground was not too wet, but this, 
when there is much to be done in this way, cannot be expected 
to be always the case ; as a simple and excellent succedaneum, 
we would recommend puddling the roots previously to plant- 
ing, which will not take up much time, and will evidently 
tend to enable the plants to sustain their removal with much 
less chance of injury. We may here observe, that when trees 
are to be kept in the nursery longer than three or four years 
after their first transplanting, that they should be, if not every 
year, at least every second year, taken up and re-planted, 
allowing them greater room every time they are removed, 
in order that they may have room to extend themselves, and 
also a proper breadth of surface to stand on, to aflford sufTi- 
ciciit nutriment for ilu-ir roots. 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



GO 



When beeches are from eighteen inches to three feet high, 
they are in good condition for final planting. But trees of 
larger growth are apt to become naked at their roots, and de- 
void of fibres, and, consequently, unfit for planting, at least 
with success. As to final situation, the beech will thrive in 
almost all soils, but in those that are light, loamy, light sandy, 
or calcareous, it is found to succeed best; where grounds of 
that description abound, the beech may be profitably planted. 

Its various uses are many, although in less repute now than 
formerly, when it was much used in various branches of ma- 
chinery; but it is now, in these cases, supplanted by metal of 
different kinds. It is, however, used for some parts of ship- 
building and machinery, and is in considerable demand with 
the cabinet-maker, tool-cutter, and turner. The small-wood 
and branches make excellent fagots, and are used for smok- 
ing herrings and making charcoal. The leaves make tole- 
rable mattrasses, a circumstance noticed by Evelyn, as being 
prevalent in his day, and reminds us of the line of Juvenal — 

*' 1 he wood's a house, the leaves a bed." 

Beech-hedges were formerly very prevalent, but are now 
less general in and about gardens. They are of rapid growth, 
and can be planted of a large size, which is often desirable 
when a hedge is speedily required. Of this genus there are 
four species enumerated in the Hortus Brittanicus, two of 
which are natives of North-America, and one only of Britain ; 
the native country of the fourth, F. comptonicef ol'ia , which 
has by many been considered as only a variety of the common 
beech, is not correctly known. The American species are 
said to be valuable as timber-trees, but have not yet attained 
a proper size, nor are they in sufficient number in this country 
to form a correct idea how far they might be advantageously 
planted with a view to profit. The fourth species is seldom 
seen out of the arboratum or shrubbery ; its merits, as a 
timber-tree, cannot be therefore calculated upon. Seeds are 
obtained of the American species from that country, by which 
they are increased, and the varieties, and the F. coniijtonice- 
fotia, are increased by grafting or inarching on the common 
sort. 



70 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Birch.— Btfula.) 

The Bctula alba, the only species of this genus cultivated 
with us as a timber-tree, is a native of Britain, as well as 
some varieties which have originated from it. It is found 
growing naturally in almost every kind of soil, and at a con- 
siderable altitude above the sea, as well as in the alluvial 
soils by the sides of the lowland rivers. The most durable 
timber of this tree is obtained from trees growing on the sides 
of hills amongst rocks, where, although its growth is much less 
rapid than in more congenial situations, its timber becomes 
much more valuable, not only on account of its durability, 
but also for its singular beauty, and, in such cases, it is 
made into beautiful pieces of furniture. 

The fragrance of its foliage, and the elegance of its habit, 
claim a place for it in all ornamental plantations, and when 
planted out on the lawn, or in the park, its natural beauties 
are pleasingly developed. Upon the steep sides of hills, anel 
in deep ravines, few trees are more beautiful than the white 
birch. The variety with drooping leaves (B. pendnla) has 
long been held in high estimation, and, although anxiously 
propagated in England, is never likely to be so abundant as 
in the northern parts of Scotland, where, in many districts, 
it abounds more plentiful than the original with upright 
branches. 

It is propagated from seeds, which ripen in September, and 
should be then gathered and dried as directed for alder, which 
it very much resembles. In spring it should be sown in well- 
prepared beds, finely dug and raked, in a soil rather humid. 
Care must be taken not to cover the seeds too deep, as they 
are liable to be injured, and often rot in the ground; and 
therefore we find some nurserymen sow them on the surface 
of finely-pulverized earth without any covering whatever. 
Birch-seed is not unfrequently successfully sown in autumn, 
that is, as soon as it is gathered from the tree, but unless in 
very favorable situations the young plants are liable to acci- 
dents during the winter. It is not easy to say how thick the 
seeds should be sown, as it is difiicult to ascertain their quality ; 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



71 



however, they should be sown thick to ensure a crop, and if the 
plants come up too closely, they must be thinned before they 
begin to injure one another. During the first winter after sow- 
ing, young birch-plants are liable to be thrown out of the ground, 
and in time of frosts care must be taken to prevent this as much 
as possible, for which purpose nurserymen cover the beds 
with a thin sprinkling of rotten tan, which lias undergone a 
long period of decomposition, and some, with less propriety 
cover them with fresh saw-dust. As the ground is generally 
moist in which birch-seeds are sown, we would suggest that 
the alleys, or foot-paths, between the beds be cleared suffi- 
ciently to allow of all superabundant moisture passing freely 
off, as the drier the beds are kept during winter, the less 
liable will the plants be to be thrown out by frost. 

The strongest plants will, in the spring following the sow- 
ing, be in a fit condition to prick out into nursery-beds, or 
into lines ; in the former case they should stand at from three 
to four inches apart, if very small ; but if larger, should be 
allowed nearly double that room ; and if put out into lines, 
they should be from twelve to fifteen inches distant, and from 
four to eight inches in the line, according to their size and 
strength. 

Their future routine of culture consists in keeping the 
ground perfectly clear of weeds, and if not planted out per- 
manently from these beds or lines, they should, the season 
after their first planting, be taken up and planted in lines at 
a greater distance from each other. Birch is seldom planted 
with a view to attain large timber-trees, its natural size being 
that of a tree of the third or fourth class of magnitude, 
although solitary instances occur of its attaining a very con- 
siderable size. 

As a copse-tree, the birch becomes valuable, and bears cut- 
ting at stated periods profitably. It also obtains a place in 
all ornamental plantations, in consequence of the fragrance of 
its foliage and singular beauty of its outline ; and few trees 
are more pleasing when grouped or planted singly in the park 
or lawn. By the sides of ponds, lakes, or rivers, the birch 
flourishes and gives a richness to the scene by the diversi- 
fication of its growth, as well as its distinct character of head, 



72 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



from that of almost all other trees. The sides of hills, and 
chasms between rocks, are also peculiarly improved by the 
varied and undulating character of this tree, and when planted 
en ttiasse, or scattered promiscuously through the grove, it 
becomes equally interesting. 

In England, the timber of the birch is less regarded than 
in Scotland, where the highlanders make use of it for almost 
every purpose whore useful, durable, or beautiful timber is re- 
quired. But only there is it to be found in perfection. As a 
fuel-timber, the birch has this peculiarity of burning clear, 
and emitting a pleasing perfume, without producing near so 
much smoke as most other timber, and is therefore much used 
in the smoking of herrings, and in the preparation of malt 
for the most esteemed whisky. Houses are built of it with 
the bark left on, which last for many years ; and furniture is 
made of it, little inferior to that inlaid with satin-wood. The 
wheel-wright, mill-wi-ight, and turner, use it extensively, and 
of late years its value was much enhanced, for the purpose of 
making barrels for the herring-fisheries. 

The bark contains a considerable degree of astringency, 
and is probably next in value to that of the oak. The juice 
extracted in spring, afibrds when it has undergone the vineous 
fermentation, a pleasant liquor, known as birch-wine. Pro- 
fessor Pallas states, that the highly-prized Russian leather 
owes its agreeable smell to an oil extracted from this tree. 
** The oil," he says, " is prepared from the white bark, either 
taken from the live tree, or collected from those that are 
putrid in the woods. It is best made from the latter : because, 
by the putrefaction, it is freed from the inner bark ; and the 
external white bark remains uncorrupted for ages, as appears 
by the old burial-places of Janisea, and the vaults of the 
very ancient city of Moscow, which he observed covered with 
birch-bark. The bark is gathered into a heap, and pressed 
into pits made in the shape of a funnel, prepared in clay-soil, 
and when set on fire it is covered with turf. The oil, distilling 
through the clay-hole at the bottom of the funnel, drops into 
a vessel placed to receive it, and it is then tunned into casks 
made of the hollowed trunks of trees. The pure limpid oil 
swims at top, and is in the greatest request for anointing 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



'?3 



leather, on account of its antiseptic quality. The residuum is 
thick and sooty, and is employed for various common uses. 

Of this genus there are seventeen species enumerated in the 
Hortus Brittanicus, ten of which are natives of North-America, 
two of Britain, and the remainder of various parts of Europe. 
Some of the American species have merits as timber-trees, 
but those of Europe, excepting the B. alba, and its varieties, 
are merely cultivated for ornament. All or most of them are 
originated from seeds, which they ripen in their native habi- 
tats. The varieties of either may be successfully increased 
by grafting and inarching on the common sort. 

Cherry or Gean. — ( Pnmus,) 

The common cherry. Primus cerassus, is considered as 
indigenous to this country, and is found in so many situations, 
and under such a variety of circumstances, as seems to justify 
the conclusion. The wild cherry, or gean of the Scotch, is 
a different species, and described under the name of Pninns 
avium, or pubescent-leaved cherry. Both attain a consider- 
able size ; but the latter is by far the most valuable timber-tree. 
The wild-cherry, or gean, considered as a fruit-bearing tree, has 
considerable merits, and many varieties of it are to be met with in 
the gardens of the Scotch, who are fond of the fruit. Considered 
as a timber or ornamental tree, it has also considerable merits, 
and adds much to the beauty of our woods, groves, and parks, 
in spring, with its profusion of snow-white flowers, and in autumn 
by the varied and rich hues its decaying foliage gives the land- 
scape ; a circumstance often noticed and availed of by the artist. 
The &oil and situation most congenial to the wild-cherry, are 
that of a sandy loam, on low ground or sloping banks. In wet 
cold soils it seldom succeeds ; and if planted in rich soils, al- 
though it attains there a considerable bulk, becomes much less 
valuable, the timber being soft, light coloured, and of no dura- 
bility ; whereas, in sandy loamy soils, it becomes hard and 
beautifully variegated in tlie wood, and of great durability. 

The wild cherry is propagated from seeds, which are ripe in 
July, and may be either sown immediately, or preserved in 
»and till spring ; it requires to be planted out in nursery lines 



7V 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



from the secd-bcd, where it may remain till planted out; or if 
wanted of a larger size, should be transplanted when two years 
old, at suflicicnt distance to allow the trees to attain a proper 
size for final transplanting. Stocks whereon to bud or ingraft 
the different varieties of the cultivated cherry, are obtained by 
sowing the seeds or stones of the dillercnt varieties of the wild 
and cultivated cherries ; and when such is the case, the two 
years old seedlings should be attended to in the nursery lines, 
and properly pruned and trained to model them into stocks, 
either for producing dwarfs or standards, as may be required. 

The wild cherry attains a size suflicicnt to produce timber in 
planks of from one foot to two feet in breadth ; and if grown in 
a light sandy loam, will be durable, and of a beautiful colour. 
It has attained the name of Scotch mahogany, which it very 
much resembles when polished and stained. It is in consider- 
able request amongst cabinet-makers, and by them manufac 
tured into chairs, tables, and such like articles of furniture. 



C H EST NU T. — ( Ca.slanca.) 

The sweet or Spanish chestnut, as it is generally called, pro- 
bably to distinguish it from the horse-chestnut is by some, con- 
sidered to be a native of this country ; and if so, it must have 
been much less cultivated than it now is, or else much less 
abundantly diffused, for there are very few instances of its being 
found of a great age, unless in situations where it must evidently 
have been })lanted. It is more probable that it has been in- 
troduced into this country ; and some date its introduction to the 
time of Tiberius Ca?sar, who is said to have brought it from Sar- 
dis into Italy, and from thence it might find its way into Britain, 
either by the Romans or the clergy. 

The Romans gave this tree the name of Castanea, after a 
city of that name in Thessalia, from whence they first procured 
it, and where it is grown in great abundance by the Gre- 
cians ; and what may be considered a singular circumstance, 
it still retains the same appellation in all the European lan- 
guages. 

Amongst those who aflirm the chestnut to be indigenous to 
this country, may be noticed Dr. Ducarel, who states, in his 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



75 



Anglo-Norman antiquities, that it is a native tree, and brings in 
as a proof, the existence of the wood in some of the oldest 
houses in London ; but it is probable that what he has taken 
for chestnut, was only oak of a similar grain. He, however, 
appeals to a deed of gift, which is sti)l in existence, from Henry 
the Second to Flexly Abbey, of the tithes of all his chestnuts 
in the forest of Dean. 

The historian Camden informs us that Cowdery Park, in 
Sussex, abounded with fine trees of this kind; and Cheshunt, 
a village in Hertfordshire, is supposed to derive its name from 
the chestnut trees, which once abounded in its vicinity. 

We certainly agree with Philips in believing that it was in- 
troduced by the Romans, who, having been masters of this 
country for nearly four hundred years, and being so much at- 
tached to horticultural pursuits, we may naturally conclude, 
would not fail to transport hither their hardiest kinds of fi-uits, 
and particularly those which were used as a substitute for bread. 

The oldest specimens, probably, of this tree, wliich we 
have any account of in this country, is that of the great chest- 
nut of Tortworth, in Gloucestershire, which has been noticed 
by the earliest historians of our country, and is supposed to have 
been 1100 years old. This tree is one of the most magnificent 
of our timber-trees, and equallifig the oak both in height and 
bulk. Its longevity is great, as is sufficiently proved by the 
celebrated specimen on Mount Etna, which has attained the 
astonishing circumference of 20i feet. Some instances occur 
both in England and Scotland of its attaining the size of from 
thirty to forty-five feet in circumference ; and, upon a moderate 
calculation, it would require a period of more than 500 years 
to attain that size. The chestnut not only thrives in any soil 
in which the oak is grown in perfection, but also attains a con- 
siderable size in soils of a poorer nature, and will make excel- 
lent copse-wood in almost any soil. Wet strong soils are, of 
all others, the best suited for this tree, when the object in view 
is to attain fine timber-trees. As an ornamental tree, few ex- 
cel it, either in the beauty of its foliage, flowers, or the mag- 
nificence of its habit. It is therefore very proper," Sang 
observes, for the decoration of the park and of the lawn. 
Many chestnut-trees, however, should not be planted close to 



THL i'RA( IIC AL GARDENER. 



a residence, because," as he observes, " the flowers emit a very 
disagreeable odour, which is offensive to most people." 

It is observed by Philips, that it is the tree which graces the 
landscapes of Salvator Rosa, who painted on the mountains of 
Calabria, where it flourishes. Its ramifications arc more strag- 
gling than even those of the oak, while its foliage, which is 
more loose and brilliant in colour, is less subject to the attacks 
of insects; and its yellow and umber tints greatly relieve the 
sable hue of the fir and the pine, and act like a blossom to en- 
liven the month of November. 

This tree is propagated from seeds, which ripen in England 
in October in line seasons, but seldom, if ever, in Scotland. 
Nurserymen are supplied with kome-saved seeds in good sea- 
sons, but, in unfavourable ones, from Spain, where this fruit is 
yearly ripened and imported into this country from thence as an 
article of luxury, and appears at our desserts from October till 
April. Chestnuts imported are by far the best either for the 
purpose of sowing or eating. They should be sown as soon as 
gathered or imported, in seed-beds or in drills, and covered to 
the depth of two or three inches. Mice and rats are very fond 
of this seed, and if once they find them in the ground, it is no 
easy matter to keep them off; attention should therefore be 
paid to guard them against such enemies. When the young 
plants appear in spring, and during the time they remain in the 
seed-beds, they should be kept clear of weeds ; and the spring 
subsequent to the sowing they should be taken up, sized and 
transplanted into nursery lines twelve or fifteen inches distant, 
and five or six inches apart in the line. The season following 
they will require to be taken up and transplanted at greater dis- 
tances, to afford them space to attain a proper size for final 
planting out. Chestnuts may be planted out when three years 
old, if the ground has been at all prepared for them; or they 
may remain in the nursery till they be five or six years old, and 
then may be planted out with success. 

The timber of the chestnut-tree very much resembles that of 
the oak, and, according to Sang, approaches it in value next 
to the ash and Scotch elm. But what has been long mistaken 
for this wood in the roof of Westminster-Abbey, and that of 
the Parliament-House at Edinburgh, and other old buildings 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



77 



in both of those cities, as instanced by Sang, seems very 
doubtful, and particuhivly so if this be not a native tree, wliich 
we see Httle probabiHty of being able to confirm. It is much 
more rational to suj^pose, with Daines Barrington, and Pro- 
fessor Martyn, that what has been mistaken for chestnut, is 
in reality nothing but oak of a ditlbrcnt grain ; and the old 
pipes which are supposed to have been laid to convey the first 
water to the metropolis, and stated to have been of this wood* 
were, in all probability, nothing else but oak. The timber of 
this tree is, however, truly valuable, and will stand in situ- 
ations exposed to wet and dry, when divested of its sap-wood, 
longer than oak ; and for gate-posts ranks in durability next 
afler the Acacia, yew, and probably also longer than the larch. 

The following is adduced in support of its durability when 
exposed to wet and dry, and is extracted from tiio Trans- 
actions of the Society of Arts lor 1789. — " In or about the 
year 1703, some gate-posts of oak, and others of chestnut, 
were to be repaired ; they had the a})pearance of being put in 
at the same time, but the latter were uuich more sound, inso- 
much that some of them were adjudged good enough to remain 
as gate-posts, and are now to be seen there (1788). Such as 
were too small were taken up, and set as posts to fix rails to. 
At the same time some new posts of oak were put in, there 
not being enough of the old chestnut posts. Though these 
were old when put in, twenty-five years ago, they are now 
(1788) more sound than the oak posts, which were then new. 
One side of the chestnut posts was the outside of the tree, 
but the timber is as sound there as in any other part, which 
would not have been the case with oak, the sap of which, 
next the bark, soon decays. The chestnut gate-posts had 
been put down many years before 171.5; they have, therefore, 
probably stood the weather above half a century." 

Philips, in his History of Fruits^ informs us, that the chest- 
nut wood has recently been successlhlly applied to the pur- 
poses of dying and tanning, thus forming a substitute for 
logwood and oak bark. Leather tanned by it is declared, by 
the gentleman who made the experiment, to be superior to 
that tanned with oak bark ; and in dying, its affinity for wool 
is said, on the same authority, to be greater than that of either 



78 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



galls or sumach, and, consequently, the colour given is more 
l>ermanent. 

The wine casks in Italy and Spain are almost all made of 
this wood, and are preferred to any other, as being less liable 
to shrink or to communicate a disagreeable flavour to the 
contents. The bark has a considerable degree of astringency, 
and contains the tanning principle in about the same proportion 
with the larch and mountain-ash. ' 

Of this genus there are three species, tlie common or sweet 
chestnut, the C. Americana^ and Pumila, natives of North 
America. Tlicy are all propagated by seeds, which are occa- 
sionally imported, and the varieties are increased by grafting 
or inarching upon the common sort. 

Horse-chestnut. — {JEsculus.) 

The common horse-chestnut, /Esculus hipjwcastafiumf is 
a native of Asia, and was introduced into this country in 
As an ornamental park-tree, few trees excel it, 
either in the splendour of its bloom or beauty of its foliage. 
It requires a loamy soil and sheltered situation, but is seldom 
injured by our severest frosts. As i timber-tree it has no 
pretensions, for although it attains a la/ge size of trunk, the 
quality of the wood is such as to render it of little estimation 
in the eye of the profitable planter. 

Ciilpin observes, it is far from being a picturesque tree, its 
outline being that of a parabola ; but all beauty is not pic- 
turesque beauty, and the foliage and leaves will ever advocate 
the cause of this tree, which, as Daines Barrington observes, 
may be compared to a giant's nosegay. It was formerly much 
used as an avenue-tree, both on the continent and also with 
us, as abundant examples are still in existence to prove. 

It is propagated from seeds, which ripen most seasons with 
us in October : they generally drop out of their seed-vessels 
when ripe, and are gathered from the ground. They should 
be sown as soon as gathered, either in seed-beds, covered to 
the depth of two and a half or three inches, or in drills, to 
the same depth. If it be not convenient to sow them as soon 
as gathered, they should be slowly dried on a dry floor, and 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



79 



frequently turned over, to prevent them from turning mouldy, 
a circumstance which often happens when they are kept in 
sacks, or too closely confined. The same enemies attack them 
that attack the sweet or Spanish chestnut, both in the seed- 
house, and also after they are committed to the ground. What 
has been said on the after-culture of the sweet chestnut is 
applicable to this tree also, only as the timber is far less va- 
luable, of course a much less number of plants should be ori- 
ginated. The horse-chestnut, like most other soft-wooded 
trees, may be safely removed when of a large size, and when 
planted with a view to give effect in park scenery, should not 
be less than from six to ten feet high when planted ; by which 
means, and by carefully guarding them for a few years against 
the attacks of cattle, they will the sooner be able to stand un- 
protected than if planted when of a smaller size. 

Elm.— ( Ulmus.) 

Of this genus there are six species, which are natives of 
this country, and all of them possessing considerable merits 
as timber-trees. Of these, the Ulmus cam2)estris, English 
elm, and Ulmus 7nontana, Scotch or Wych elm, are considered 
the most valuable. The former of these is a very ornamental 
tree, considered either as a hedge-row tree, or to stand singly 
in the park, and several beautiful specimens may be seen of 
it in many of our best planted English parks. It is an ex- 
ceedingly useful tree all over England, and it is with regret 
that we see it so frequently, nay, almost universally mutilated 
into so disgusting and ugly a state in our hedge-rows. " No- 
thing certainly can be more tiresome," says a very intelligent 
author, and keen observer of the mismanagement of this tree, 

in travelling through the flat countries than the continual 
succession of meagre elms, like poles ; from which we are 
now and then relieved by Lombardy poplars ! which are worse, 
if possible, though occasionally, no doubt, by a much finer 
plant than either, the elder." 

The wood of the English elm is very far inferior to that of 
the Scotch elm, both in durability and value. It is stated by 
Sang, in confirmation of this assertion, that, " in the sales 



80 



THK PRACTICAL GARDENEU. 



of these timbers, the English elm, amongst good judges, sel- 
dom brings more than a half, or even a third of the price of 
the Scotch elm, although both be of equal size and age. 
Prejudice, no doubt, may have some share in this matter, but 
certainly the timber of the one is very inferior to that of the 
other. Indeed, if it be considered that the one species is 
exceedingly hardy, and universally raised from seeds, and 
that the other may be even termed delicate, at least in Scot- 
land, there can be little hesitation in determining which de- 
serves the })rcfcrcnce as a forest tree. The English elm 
is too fre(jucntly raised from layers or suckers. These never 
make the best trees : and they always produce suckers from 
their roots, and disfigure the grounds in which they stand. 
When intended for ornamental trees for the park or the 
lawn, they ought to be budded or grafted on the Scotch elm ; in 
this way trees of superior vigour and figure will be obtained, 
and will never produce a sucker." Of this elm there appears to 
be very many in Scotland, although there are few of the Scotch 
elms, comparatively speaking, to be met with in England. 

The Scotch elm attains a considerable magnitude, one of 
which is described in the Selkirkshire Report, p. ^87, as being 
thirty feet in circumference, at four feet from the ground. And 
another, which we have frequently measured, which stands on 
the lawn at the east end of Taymouth Castle, is still a growing 
tree, and is fifteen feet nine inches in girth, nearly six feet from 
the ground. The merits of tlus species, in respect to its effect as 
an ornamental tree, places it next to the oak, to which it nearly 
approaches in its appearance, when cultivated in the grove or 
profitable plantations ; " if properly nursed anj trained, it 
becomes a straight, tall, and large-stemmed tree. In hedge- 
rows it also becomes most useful and durable timber; and 
in open woods it naturally assumes many fine casts and forms 
for the purpose of ship-building and the like. In short, the 
timber of this tree is so useful and valuable, that it is always 
prized next to the oak." 

The soil in which this elm seems to prosper best is in a 
deep rich loam, althougli it will accommodate itself to almost 
all soils. In light sandy soils, upon a rocky bottom, this tree 
becomes most valuable in regard to its timber. Wet tilly clayi 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



81 



are of all soils the least congenial to it, but even in the crevices 
between rocks, where there is little soil of any kind, and on 
bleak exposed hills, this elm will attain a considerable size. 

The different species of elm which perfect seeds, should be 
always originated from them : this is, however, not generally, 
by any means, the case ; and hence follow, as a natural cause, 
the many distorted and worthless trees, which we daily see in 
plantations and forests, where more expeditious means have 
been used to produce plants of fit size for sale or planting. 
Our opinion is (although differing from men whom we esteem, 
and from whose writings we have derived much pleasure and 
advantage) that no tree should be propagated by other means 
than by seeds, unless extraordinary circumstances warrant a 
departure from that natural rule ; and in collecting the seeds 
of all trees, greater care should be taken to select the seeds 
from the healthiest and most vigorous specimens, and not in- 
discriminately, nor by people unacquainted with the distinctions 
between a good and a worthless tree. 

The seeds of the Scotch elms ripen abundantly about the 
middle of June, and should then be collected, and sown im- 
mediately after. Upon this subject Sang offers the following 
rational remarks : — " Elm-seed, when newly gathered, espe- 
cially at this season, and kept together in a large quantity, 
has, on account of the juicy nature of its capsule, a great 
tendency to heat. It will, therefore, be proper to gather no 
more on one day than can be sown on the following morning ; 
and it will even be right to spread the seeds thin during the 
night. The necessity of this precaution generally shows itself, 
for before they can be brought home in the evening of the day 
on which they are gathered, if there be a bushel or two in the 
sack, they will be found very hot. We have often observed 
them so much so, that if they had lain in that state till the 
morning, many of them would never have vegetated." Some- 
times, however, elm-seeds are gathered with a view to keeping 
them for some time, as is the case when it is not convenient 
or possible to sow them till autumn or even spring ; and it also 
happens when the intention is to send them to a distance. In 
these cases, some attention is requisite, both as to the gather- 
ing of the seed, and also to curing it, so that it may be kept 



8^ 



THi: FKAt'TlCAL GAKDENKR. 



lor some time witli safety. When the seeds are observed to be 
perfectly ripened, they should be gathered immediately, as the 
procrastination of a single day often defeats the object in view, 
particularly in wet and windy seasons, as has been the case at 
the very time we were writing this article. High winds and 
rain have followed so closely, that we have been unable, with 
all diligence, to collect a single bushel of this seed. The fol- 
lowing extract we are induced to give upon this subject from 
Nicol's Planters' Calendar, edited by Sang, a very respectable 
and excellent nurseryman ; and we are the more induced to 
adopt this step as it is in unison with our own ideas upon the 
subject, although differing in principle from that of some of 
the writers of the present day : — In gathering elm-seed, it 
should be chosen from the tallest, and most handsome, and 
healthy trees. Indeed, in every case, seeds should be col- 
lected from the most promising and healthy trees of their kind. 
Plants, like animals, in some measure, convey to their progeny 
their appearance and habits, whether good or bad. Therefore, 
although a tree have an abundance of apparently perfect seeds, 
if it be either visibly diseased, or be an ill-formed plant, not 
a seed should be collected from it. It is well known that 
disease and deformity in plants frequently do not prevent them 
from abundantly procreating their species. Indeed, in gar- 
dening, we always find that retrenching the roots of very 
healthful young plants is the surest method to throw them into 
fruit ; though such retrenchment evidently makes the plant less 
healthy than it previously was." 

As the English elm seldom, if ever, ripens seed in Britain, 
its best mode of propagation is by grafting on the Scotch elm, 
and not by layers, which is so generally the case. Grafting 
elms has been long a practice amongst nurserymen ; and 
Langley relates a case of a nurseryman at Brentford-End, who 
purposed obtaining a patent from George the First for graft- 
ing and budding the English elm upon the Dutch elm, with a 
view to improve the growth of the former ; and Virgil asserts, 
but which we much doubt the truth of, that a union will 
take ])lace between the elm and the oak. Our ingenious 
countryman, Evelyn, speaks of the grafting of elms as being 
known and practised in his day. 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



83 



Elm-seed may be sown as soon as collected from the trees, 
but we would rather advise saving it till March or April, or 
making three sowings : one in June, when the seed is gathered, 
one in March, and a third in April. The ground for the seed- 
beds should be rather rich, having been under a slight crop 
the preceding season ; and if not manured for it, it should be 
done previously to sowing the elm-seed. As this seed does 
not require to be deeply covered, it is necessary to have the 
ground finely dug and raked before the beds are formed, which 
should be four feet in breadth, and the seed covered to the 
depth of half an inch. Sometimes the crop of summer-sown 
elms is destroyed in winter, when the season has been dry and 
the plants weak, and in such cases they are hable to be thrown 
out of the ground by the frost. Sometimes the spring crop is 
destroyed, if sown too early and severe fi'osts occur just as 
the tender plants are coming up, but by sowing at the three 
stated periods above recommended, we have three chances of 
obtaining a crop. It is advisable to sow elm-seed rather thin, 
as the seeds are in general good ; and as it is better that the 
plants should remain two seasons in the seed-bed previously to 
their being planted out into nursery-lines, they will have a 
chance of attaining greater strength than if they were too much 
crowded in the seed-bed. 

The after-management of elms, while in the nursery, differs 
not from that of other trees already noticed. They may be 
planted permanently out on trenched or prepared land, when 
four years old from seed; or, if in unprepared ground, they 
should be allowed one or two years longer. All the species of 
elm succeed, though planted of a large size ; although, like 
most other trees, they prosper much better when planted be- 
fore they attain too great an age. 

Of this genus there are seventeen species enumerated in 
the Hortus Britannicus, six of which are indigenous to this 
country, five of North America, one of China, two of Siberia, 
one of Hungary, and two undetermined. The British species 
are the most valuable with us, although there are several of 
the North American ones which would, in all probability, be 
worth the notice of the planter ; of the remainder, their merits, 
as timber-trees, are of no account. Sucli of this family, of 



84 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



Mhich it is difficult to procure seeds, may be readily increased 
by grafting or inarching : by either process a union speedily 
takes place. Tlie Dutch elm, U. Major, of English botany, 
U. Suberosa, of Willdenow, although enumerated as a British 
species, is supposed to have been introduced here in the 
time of King William. The tree is of rapid growth, but the 
timber is not of much value. Dr. Walker even doubts if the 
common English elm, U. Campestrisj be not also an intro- 
duced plant, and asserts that it was originally brought from 
the Holy Land. 

Hawthorn. — {Mespilus Oxyacantha.) 

The hawthorn, although it is sometimes to be met with of 
a large size, cannot be altogether considered as a timber-tree, 
neither is it planted with a view to its attaining that size. It 
is, however, no less valuable, when considered as the best 
plant we have for the purpose of making living fences. It is 
widely diffused through the greater part of Europe, and with 
us in particular ; it is found naturally in a variety of situations, 
and obtrudes itself upon our notice in the various characters 
of underwood in the forest or copse, as a detached tree in the 
park, and forming, as it were, natural fences by the sides of 
fields, ^vc. 

" As underwood in the forest," Sang observes, *' where it 
grows spontaneously, it may rather be considered as out of 
place, and a nuisance. In the park, if growing at the foot of, 
or near a fine oak, it has an excellent effect. As a detached 
ti'ee, if large and well formed, the hawthorn never fails to 
please. When clustered in handsome groupes on the lawn, haw- 
ihurn trees are very ornamental, particularly when in blossom. 
As a shrub, or a bush overhanging a rill, in a valley or dell, 
by the end of a mill, or the side of a cottage, the hawthorn 
appears to great advantage." 

The timber of the hawthorn, when it attains a proper size, 
is very valuable, and was much used by the millwright pre- 
viously to the u^•e of cast-iron, which has latterly been substi- 
tuted for it. Sang observes, that the timber of this tree is 
often spoiled throuirh inattention after cutting. If it be allowed 
to lie in the tree, it soon heats, and becomes brittle and worth- 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



85 



less. It ought, therefore, he says, to be instantly cut up into 
plank, and laid to dry. 

The principal use to which this plant is applied, is in the 
forming of fences, for which it is well adapted, and for this 
purpose is yearly propagated in vast quantities by the nursery- 
men. It is propagated from seeds which ripen in October, 
and may, in most seasons, be collected from old hedges in any 
quantity. As the seeds are collected, they should not be al- 
lowed to remain in sacks, nor too many of them put together, 
as they are extremely apt to ferment ; and if such a circum- 
stance occurs, many of them will be spoiled. As they are 
collected, they should be carried to the nursery, and spread 
out in a convenient spot (which, from the process the seeds 
undergo, is termed the rot-ground) not more than ten or twelve 
inches thick, and mixed with any light dry sandy soil. While 
in this situation, great care must be taken that they do noi 
ferment too much, for fear of injuring their vegetative pro- 
perties ; if at any time fermentation becomes too great, they 
then should be turned over once or twice, which will suf- 
ficiently counteract that tendency, as well as hasten the decay 
of the pulpy matter with which the seeds are covered. In 
this situation they should remain for one year at least, although 
some nurserymen leave them for two. The intention of thus 
placing them in such a situation is, that hawthorn, ash, moun- 
tain-ash, and some other seeds, do not vegetate the first season 
after being gathered ; and were they sown at that period, 
would be one year at least in the ground without vegetating. 
During that time they would be liable to be destroyed by 
vermin, the ground would be occupied to no real advantage, 
and an unnecessary expense would be incurred in weeding and 
cleaning the ground. As some of these seeds commence vege- 
tating about eighteen months after they are gathered, it is 
iudged the best practice to sow them into beds at that time, 
that is, the February or March following. In choosing ground 
wherein to sow hawthorn-seeds, it should be light ; and if not 
moderately rich, should be made so by the application of good 
rotten manure. 

It is likely that the beds now formed will require to 
remain so for three years, as it will not be before that period 



86 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



that all the seeds will have vegetated, and the young plants 
attained a size fit for transplanting into nursery -beds or lines. 
In sowing this, and most otlier seeds, the ground should be 
deeply and finely dug ; and as the beds for this seed are to be 
formed by having a portion of the surface pushed off with the 
back of a rake, or what is called cufHng, amongst nurserymen, 
it is necessary, for the better executing that process, that the 
ground be dee})ly and finely raked as the process of digging 
goes on. When the ground is thus prepared, the beds are 
marked off at the required breadth, which is generally from 
three to four feet, and the process of cuffing is then proceeded 
in, in the following manner : — 

After the ground is dug, and raked fine, as above, measure 
the purposed width, stretch the garden-line, and run it off 
along the side by the tread of your feet ; return with one foot 
in the tread of the other, and so as to form an alley of three 
times the breadth of your foot. Having shaped the bed by 
these means, and being provided with a wooden-headed or 
cuffing-rake, stand on the alley on the opj)osite side of the 
bed ; turn the rake on its back, and push off the earth from 
the one half of the bed to the purposed depth, as far as the 
side of the alley marked by your feet, being careful to keep 
the earth so pushed off cjuite straight. When one side is 
finished, turn round, and do the other in the same maimer. 
Having completed the culling of the bed, carry the rotted haws 
in a close-wrought basket in one hand, and with the other lift 
them out ; and with a sudden dash, cast them along the half 
of the bed next to you ; turn round, and do the other side in 
the same manner. If your seeds be good, they should lie 
within one-fourth of an inch of each other. Having com- 
pleted the operation of sowing, if the state of the seeds will 
allow, draw a roller of about sixty pounds weight, and exactly 
the breadth of the bed, along it, which will press in the seeds, 
so as they will maintain their place during the operation of 
drawing on the earth again, which is presently to be done. 
If, however, the seeds be too moist to allow the roller to pass 
over them without sticking to it, beat them in with the back 
of the spade. The operation of fixing them in the soil being 
performed by one or other of these means, take the rake. 



NURSERY AND PLANTING, 



87 



stand on the alley on the opposite side of the bed, put in the 
teeth of the rake immediately beyond the cuffing or ridge of 
earth pushed off, and by a sudden pull draw it on the bed, 
so as to cover its lower half equally ; and having finished this 
half, turn round, and finish the other in like manner, and the 
operation is completed." 

Sometimes haws are sown in drills, which, upon the whole, 
is a much better way, as affording a freer circulation of air to 
pass through the plants ; and as the largest and best plants 
are always to be found on the outsides of the beds, sowing in 
drills, instead of beds, presents a greater number of outsides, 
and consequently a greater number of strong plants. When 
this mode of sowing is to be adopted, it should be carried on 
as the ground is dug ; thus having dug the breadth of eighteen 
inches or two feet, stretch the line parallel to the trench, and 
with a broad hoe or spade form a drill about nine or ten inches 
broad, into which sow the seeds, and cover with the mould 
taken either out of the drill already sown, or from the next 
following. While performing this operation, the operator 
should stand in the trench, which will not tread the dug 
ground ; having sown one di'ill, proceed to dig another breadth, 
and so on until the whole be finished. 

When the seeds of hawthorns have been one year sown, it 
will be necessary to draw the strongest plants from the seed- 
bed, to be transplanted out into nursery-beds or lines; in 
taking up these plants, the greatest care ought to be taken 
both to preserve the roots of the plants removed from injury, 
as well as the seeds which may not yet have vegetated, and 
the small plants left to gain strength for another season. To 
facihtate the pulling up of the young plants, the beds should 
be loosened with a fork in a careful manner ; and when the 
plants are removed, the beds should be regulated so as to 
leave them that the drought may not penetrate to the tender 
roots of the plants which are left. Those taken up should, 
as soon as possible, be planted either into beds, at about four 
inches apart, plant from plant, or into lines twelve inches dis- 
tant, and four inches apart, plant fi'om plant, where they are 
to remain, if in beds as above, for one season only ; but if 
in lines at the above distance, they may remain for two years, 



88 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



by wliich time tlie most forward of tlie plants will be fit tor 
planting out for hedges, and the less forward should be 
planted again in the nursery, to gain strength for another 
season or two. 

When hedges are to be planted, and afterwards attended to 
in a proper manner, the younger the plants used the better. 
But it must be confessed that, in general, the management of 
hedges is very little attended to, even by those who ought to 
be most sensible of their utility ; and we find it very frequently 
the case, that after a hedge has been planted, very little is 
thought of it afterwards. Cattle arc allowed to browze on it, 
if the plants ever attain a size sufHciently large to rear their 
heads above the weeds, with which they are allowed to be 
smothered ; and if they be fortunate enough to attain any 
height, they are often allowed to grow on until they become 
quite thin at the bottom, and after being five, six, or ten 
years planted, are probably cut down to the bottom, to be 
again, for a year or two, liable to all the disasters and accidents 
which they had weathered in their growth. Those who wish to 
have good and substantial hedges, nmst pay some attention 
to the plants during their first few years' growth. Keeping 
them clean, guarding them against the browzing of cattle, and 
a judicious application of the hedge-knife, is all that has to 
be attended to ; and if judiciously done, and followed up, good 
and substantial fences may be expected. Upon this subject 
Sang offers the following excellent remarks : — " The rapid 
progress of the hedge depends, in a great measure, on the 
goodness of the plants employed. The goodness of these, 
however, does not so much consist in the thickness of their 
stems, as in the numerous fibres of their roots. A very thick- 
stemmed plant may have hardly a fibre at its root to support 
it when planted. The most desirable plants are, therefore, 
such as have the greatest number of fibres at their roots with 
a clear and vigorous stem. It must be observed tliat, if thorns 
stand in the nursery-line more than one, or, at the most, two 
years unrcmoved, their roots become thinner of fibres, which 
consequently render them less fit for the purpose of planting 
for hedges, than if they had been removed at an earlier period 
of tlicir growth. One-year seedlings of good growth, nursed 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



89 



for one year in rich earth, will generally make fitter plants for 
planting out than when they are allowed to stand for two or 
three years in the nursery-lines. Two-year seedlings, care- 
fully lifted from the seed-bed, so as to preserve their roots 
entire, and when one year nursed in rich mellow earth, will 
also make excellent plants for hedges. Indeed, plants of these 
ages, so treated, will outgrow those of greater size in any soil 
or situation whatever. The obvious cause is, that small 
plants, even by the same treatment, are raised with better roots 
in proportion to their stems than larger plants. In the choos- 
ing of quicksets, respect should therefore be had to the roots 
more than to the tops of the plants. 

" But there is a double advantage in using young plants as 
above recommended. If they are to be bought, they will cost 
less money than older ones. If they be reared in a private 
nursery, less time is required, as well as less labour to pro- 
duce them. Further, they are better fitted for very exposed 
situations than such as are older ; not because their tops arc 
less bushy, which, since these are to be cut off, is immaterial, 
but because they have better roots and more fibres in pro- 
portion to the stems, and of course are better fitted . to seek 
pasturage for their sustenance, and to take a firm hold of the 
soil." 

Previously to planting quicksets or thorns, it is necessary 
to shorten them considerably, and this is done by taking them 
up in small handfuls ; and having laid them straight, the tops, 
to within about six inches of the part of the plants that were 
under ground, are cut off with a sharp hatchet on a block of 
wood. Some people shorten every plant individually with a 
knife ; but if the other method be properly done, it will be 
found far more expeditious aud equally complete. When the 
plants are so shortened, only the tips of the long tap roots, 
or such as are without young fibres, should be shortened, and 
that only to a very limited extent. 

Holly. — {Ilex Aquifolium.) 

The holly is a native of Britain, and found growling in 
woods and forests as underwood, and also on elevatcHl and 

» N 



90 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



bleak hills and deep valleys in many parts of the kingdom. It 
is an evergreen-tree, of great longevity, and valuable, either 
when considered as ornamental or useful. There are many 
varieties of this genus to be met with in those situations where 
they abound, and in a cultivated state above forty pretty dis- 
tinct varieties are to be had, many of which are exceedingly inte- 
resting and curious. As a timber-tree, it becomes valuable when 
of a great age, and is in all stages of its growth, admitted into 
the park, the lawn, and the flower garden, with good ellect. 
Hedges are made of it, which are impenetrable, and some 
beautiful specimens still exist, which must have been planted 
above two centuries. Hollies are propagated from seeds, which 
ripen abundantly every season, and the varieties are increased 
by budding and grafting them upon the conmion sorts. In 
October the berries are ripe, and should then be gathered, 
and, as observed in the case of hawthorn-seeds, they should 
not be allowed to remain in sacks nor heaps together, as they 
are apt to ferment violently, and in such cases many of them 
would be spoiled. As they are gathered, they should be car- 
ried to the rot-yard in the nursery, and treated as already 
observed in the case of haws. Holly-seeds generally require 
to remain for two years in the rot-yard, to secure their speedy 
vegetation when sown, but as some of them will vegetate the 
second year, it is considered good practice to sow them after one 
year s rotting ; when sown, they will continue to come up for two 
seasons, and j)robably a few will not spring before the third. 
When the seeds of this tree are to be sent to a distance, pro- 
vision ought to be made to prevent them from heating too 
much while closely packed up, a circumstance which very fre- 
quently hapj)cns, to the loss of the purchaser. Sang recom- 
mends packing them in deep narrow hampers, and to put not 
more than one bushel into each. Were it equally convenient 
to the parties, it would be a much safer way to dispose of 
those seeds only that have undergone the change in the rot- 
heap, instead of the fresh-gathered berries. In the latter 
case, there would be much less danger to be apprehended 
from fermentation, and no possible injury could happen to the 
seeds in the one way more than the other. In regard to sow- 
ing the seeds of holly, the same precautions should he used 



NUKSERY AND PLANTING. 



91 



in preparing the ground, in forming the beds, and covering 
the seeds, as recommended in the last article. When the plants 
have been two years in the seed-bed, they should be taken 
up, and transplanted into nursery-lines, or into beds, allowing 
the plants in the latter case to stand at from four to six inches 
apart, and in the former, one foot between the lines, and four 
inches plant from plant in the line. All evergreens are im- 
patient of drought at the time of their removal, therefore, 
dull, cloudy, or wet weather should, if possible, be chosen for 
that purpose, and a rather damp or shaded spot is the most 
favorable for them to be planted in. In such beds, as above 
directed, they should be allowed to stand for two years to 
.gain strength ; at the end of which period they should again 
be taken up, and planted in lines at a greater distance, where 
they should also remain for two years ; at the expiration of 
which time, many of them will be in a fit state to plant out 
permanently in the shrubbery or plantations. The smaller 
ones being selected, should again be planted in linos at least 
fifteen or eighteen inches distant, and from a foot to fifteen 
inches apart in the line, which will be sufficient room for them 
to attain a size fit for the final planting. 

The holly, under all circumstances, is a slow-growing tree, 
and although it bears transplanting, while young, with safety, 
it nevertheless is very considerably checked in its growth by 
being removed, unless very great care be taken to remove it 
with a large ball. This is not always practicable, as the soil 
in which the holly delights, which is of a light and rather 
sandy nature, little of the surrounding mould can be taken up 
with the roots. Dull damp weather should therefore be chosen, 
and April, August, and September, may be considered the best 
seasons ; although holly, as well as most evergreens, may be 
removed at any period of the year, for particular purposes, 
except only while they are making their young shoots. Pud- 
dling the roots should never be neglected ; and when they are 
planted, a liberal supply of water should be given them, both 
at their roots and also 6ver their heads, unless the weather 
should be sufficiently wet to render such labour unnecessary. 
Wet weather should therefore be chosen for planting all ever- 
greens ; and if only ordinary care be taken in removing .the 



lin; PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



plants, little iloubt can be entertained of success. Hares and 
rabbits are very destructive to this plant ; and as it is some 
years before it attains a size sufficient to protect itself against 
their attacks, some defence or other should be devised for 
their protection. The ground also where they are planted 
should be kept clear of weeds round them, which, if not at- 
tended to, will, in many cases, completely check them. Hollies 
succeed well under the shade of other trees, and to a cer- 
tainty are more successfully planted in such situations than 
when fully exposed to the rays of the sun ; and when planted 
in the park, or in exposed situations, a two-fold benefit may 
be obtained by surrounding them with a close-wattled fence, 
both for the purpose of defending them from the attacks of 
hares, rabbits, ike, and also to atlbrd them a partial shade 
until they be completely established ; after which, few trees 
are more hardy and capable of defending themselves against 
their enemies. 

A curious physiological circumstance has been often noticed 
by botanists in regard to this tree, which is, that it is fur- 
nished with prickly leaves near the ground, and entirely 
smooth ones towards the top, when growing in situations which 
render it liable to the attacks of deer or other animals. The 
large hollies in Needwood Forest are described to be of this 
sort, and are armed with prickly leaves for about eight feet 
high, which would seem to imply a consciousness in the trees, 
that when their branches were out of the reach of the deer, 
they had no occasion for arms. 

Holly-plants, for the purpose of making hedges, should be 
planted as such, when they have been nursed for two years 
from the transplanted beds, that is, when they are four years 
old. In planting them, they should stand at the distance of 
nine or ten inches apart ; and if protected for the first five or 
six years, will, soon after that, under good management, de- 
fend themselves from all attacks, and make excellent fences, 
aHbrding shelter, as well as a boundary either to fields or 
plantations. 

The holly attains a large size both in height and girth of 
stem, and specimens are to be occasionally met with above six 
feet ill circumference. The value of the timber of such trees 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



93 



is very great, although few who are possessed of such trees 
will be induced to fell them, unless under peculiar circum- 
stances. 

The remains of considerable sized forests of holly are to be 
seen in some parts of Aberdeenshire, on the banks of the 
Dee, and also at Gordon Castle, in the adjoining county. 
An interesting account of these trees is given by Mr. Sabine, 
in the Horticultural Transactions, who was particularly struck 
with their venerable and magnificent appearance. The timber 
is as white as ivory ; it is often used as a substitute for 
that article, in inlaying and veneering, and is in much request 
by the makers of mathematical instruments and turners. The 
well-known glutinous substance, bird-lime, is made from the 
bark of this tree when fireed from the woody fibre 

Hornbeam. — {Carpinus Betulus.) 

This tree is also a native of Britain, and is found naturally 
in a variety of soils and situations, and prospering in every 
one which is capable of being planted. It is, however, far 
less prevalent in our woods and plantations than almost any 
other of our indigenous timber-trees ; and this circumstance 
has been accounted for in the following manner: — In the early 
years of horticultural improvements, hornbeam-hedges were 
much in fashion, and nurserymen then propagated them from 
layers, which was judicious enough for the purpose for which 
they were then intended ; but from such layers, fine trees 
never could be expected, and hence the majority of those which 
were planted with a view to attain the size of timber-trees 
continued meagre, straggling, deformed bushes, and few of 
them ever attained any useful size. Miller reprobated this 
mode of propagation, and since his time, the hornbeam has 
been more generally originated from seeds, and now we find 
fine specimens of trees of that age ; but as a forest-tree, it appears 
to be still too much neglected. The general character of this 
tree resembles that of the beech ; the timber is also very simi- 
lar, and is applied to every purpose for which the beech is 
used ; indeed, for millwright's work, it is considered su})erior. 
As has been already observed, it is increased by seeds, which 



94 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



ripen in September and October, in great abundance, in the 
English woods, but rarely, if ever, in Scotland. The seeds 
should be sown as soon as gathered, in beds of the ordinary 
sizes, and in almost any tolerably good nursery-ground. Many 
of the seeds will vegetate the first year after sowing, and all 
of them the second. When the young plants are sufficiently 
strong in the seed-bed, they should be carefully removed and 
transplanted into nursery-beds, or lines, as already directed 
for beeches, their whole nursery culture being similar to thiU 
of that tree. As to final situation, the hornbeam is not par- 
ticular in its choice of soil, nor of situation. However, in 
common with every other tree, it will attain a greater bulk 
sooner in good soil and sheltered situations. It is not much 
planted as a forest-tree, but evidently deserves to be more 
attended to. As a copse-underwood, it is valuable, and affords 
excellent shelter for game, for, like the beech, the half-decayed 
leaves remain on the trees till spring. It also yields a con- 
siderable bulk of fiigot-wood, and makes excellent fuel, dead- 
fences, and hurdles. 

There are several varieties which are met with in cul- 
tivation, but they can only be considered as merely orna- 
mental, and as such deserve a place in the arboratum or 
shrubbery. 

The varieties arc multiplied by grafting on the common 
sort, and the true exotic species C. Americana and Orientalise 
are increased by the same means, or by seeds imported from 
their native habitats. 

Locust-Tree. — {Rohinia Pseud- Acacia.) 

This family may chiefly be considered as ornamental, and 
as such deserve a place in every shrubbery of extent. The 
R. Pseud- Acacia attains a considerable size of trunk, but is 
more regarded in consequence of the great durability of its 
timber, which, if we can credit Mr. Cobbet, is almost incor- 
ruptible. This species has been long cultivated here, and 
some considerable sized specimens are occasionally to be met 
with on the lawn, and in the plantations of some of our best 
planted residences ; but if not planted in very sheltered situa- 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



95 



tions, it is apt to be broken, and the timber injured by the 
boisterous winds with which we are visited during spring and 
autumn in this country. Its flowers and foHage are pecuHarly 
interesting and beautiful ; but, as an ornamental tree in its 
general outline, it cannot be allowed much merit. Its leaves 
are late in spring before they appear, and they fall again early 
in autumn. It is of rapid growth while young, and better 
calculated for copse-wood than for forest planting. It is a 
native of North-America, where it is much prized on account 
of its durability ; and for gate-posts, palings, and similar pur- 
poses, has considerable merits, and may be advantageously 
planted with us. It is not likely ever to become a timber-tree 
of the first class in this country ; but in North-America it 
attains a large size, and the wood is esteemed by the cabinet- 
maker more than that of any other timber whatever. It pre- 
fers a deep sandy soil, and bears cutting freely, and in this 
way has been advantageously cultivated as a copse-tree, as 
appears from a communication to the Board of Agriculture. 

It ripens its seed in September, by which it is readily in- 
creased, and which should be saved till spring, and sown in 
any moderately good nursery-ground, where it will soon come 
up, and will be, by the spring following, in a fit state for 
transplanting into nursery-lines, when, after one or two years 
growth, it may be planted out, where it is permanently to 
remain. 

This tree succeeds best when planted young, for from the 
nature of its roots, which are long and thinly furnished with 
fibres, it seldom succeeds well, if planted when of a large size. 

Laburnum. — {Cytissus Alpimis.) 

The tree, or Scotch Laburnum, is so called to distinguish 
it from the common laburnum, with which it is often con- 
founded, but which are very distinct species, the latter only 
attaining the size and character of a straggling large shrub ; 
whereas the former attains that of a considerable sized tree. 
They are both natives of Europe, and have long been culti- 
vated in this country as plants of ornament ; the former, how- 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



ever, is also valued for its timber, which is much prized by 
the cabinet-maker and turner for its hardness, beauty, and 
durabihty. It is the false ebony of the French, and is some- 
times used as a substitute for that wood by the British artists. 
No tree which is cultivated in our plantations has greater claims 
on our attention as a tree of ornament, either planted on the 
skirts of plantations, or on the lawn, or in the park. When 
planted with a view to })roducc timber, it should be intermixed 
with other trees, and attention paid to training it up to one 
proper stem; it is not slow in growth, and will, in favorable 
situations, attain a lari^o size in thirty years. Sang records 
an instance of this timber being sold at a public sale, in 180i>, 
as high as half-a-guinea per foot ; and gives another instance, 
in ISOn, of its being sold for seven and sixpence, — a price 
which no other timber that is produced in this country would 
ever be expected to bring. The tree laburnum is propagated 
by seeds, which ripen yearly in great abundance. It is in 
perfection in October, and is easily tlistinguished from the 
common or shrubby sort, by the largeness of its leaves and 
flowers, as well as by its attaining the character of a tree, 
while the other attains only that of a shrub. It is difficult, 
notwithstanding, to obtain genuine seeds of the tree kind, as 
so little attention is unfortunately paid to the collecting of seeds 
in general. Whoever wishes to propagate both sorts sepa- 
rately, should be particular from what trees the seeds are 
obtained. When the seed-pods are gathered, they should be 
left to dry in an airy loft, and, when sufhciently dry, they 
should be stored by in sacks, still enclosed in the pods, where 
they ought to remain till the spring, when they may be taken 
out and sown. The end of February, March, and April, is 
the proper season to sow this seed, which should either be 
sown in drills or beds, as already noticed for haws, but they 
need not be so much covered. They will soon vegetate, and 
the spring following will require to be drawn from the seed- 
bed. The strongest plants may then be transplanted into 
lines, one foot apart, and the plants six inches apart one from 
another. The smaller ones may be placed in beds, about four 
or five inches apart. 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



97 



Larch. — {Pinus Larix.) 

The larch is a native of Alpine situations in the South of 
Europe. The finest trees and most valuable timber being 
found in chasms on the north sides of mountains, where least 
exposed to the sun, and where the summer may be said to be 
of short duration. Many opinions have been offered as to the 
exact date of its introduction into Britain. It appears to have 
been cultivated by Parkinson in or previously to 1629; and 
in 1664, we find it noticed by Evelyn as having attained a 
considerable size at Chelmsford, in Essex. Harte, in 1715, 
recommends it in his essays, and has left us a drawing of the 
tree. It is rather singular that Langley, who wrote so soon 
afterwards, should not mention this tree. Its introduction 
into Scotland is stated by Mr. Lambert to have been effected 
by the celebrated Lord Kames, in 1734, and planted on the 
Blair Drummond estate ; and, in 1741, it was extensively 
planted by the Duke of Athol, at Dunkeld, who, according 
to Dr. Walker, had introduced it from London, as a delicate 
exotic, in 1727, along with some orange-trees, and these are 
said to have been kept in the green-house at Dunkeld, until 
their hardy properties were discovered, and then that they 
were planted out in the garden, where they remain to this 
time, and one of them has attained the great size of one 
hundred feet in height, and ten feet in circumference. There 
are, however, specimens of this tree of much larger size, in 
the garden of General Campbell, at Monzie, in Perthshire, 
the largest of which is seventeen and a half feet in circum- 
ference, and another nearly as much. The larches planted 
throughout Scotland, about fifty and sixty years ago, are now 
trees of vast magnitude, and have fully answered all the eulo- 
giums which have been bestowed on it, so much so, that the 
larch is now considered, on the whole, the most useful and 
valuable timber-tree, not even excepting the oak. Some of 
these trees, on the Dunkeld property, have attained the height 
of one hundred and twenty feet in the space of fifty years, 
that is, an average growth of above two feet four inches annu- 
ally; and some of them,, in eighty years, upon poor hilly land, 



98 



THE IMIACTICAL GARDENER. 



fifteen or sixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, have 
attained the astonishing size, as to produce three hundred feet 
of measurable timber. As to soil, the larch will flourish in 
every soil, on hill, on dale or mountain, in loam, in clay, 
in gravel ; in peat-earth, in moor-earth, amongst rocks and 
stone : in short, every where, excepting in standing water.'' 
There are, however, soils, in which it attains a greater size and 
a better quality than in others. Rich soils, in general, are 
unfit for the larch, but none are too poor for it; although it 
will i^row lor the first few years luxuriantly, and even attain a 
laroc size in rich soils, nevertheless, in such it is apt to decay 
at the heart, and conse(iuently be rendered useless in point of 
timber. It is not, therefore, the soils in which this tree 
appears to make the most rapid progress while young that are 
most congenial to it, but actually the reverse ; and it also 
appears that a certain degree of altitude of situation is neces- 
sary to produce it in perfection. The larch is not only valu- 
able in itself when fully grown, but is the best of all trees for 
nursing others in bleak and exposed situations. " Indeed," 
says Sang, no tree is so eminently qualified for this office. 
In most situations, even in the most exposed places, and thin 
soi-ls, it outgrows all other timber-trees for the first ten or 
twenty years after jilanting ; and if j^lanted in sufficient 
numbers, in proportion to the principal trees to be nursed, it 
af!<)rds them good shelter ; while, by its towering, it tends to 
draw them up for timber. It will arrive at a timber size in 
almost any situation or soil, (as already noticed,) and of course 
it may with propriety be planted on a broad and extensive 
scale, and may be expected to make the most durable timber 
on the more elevated and exposed situations, where the soil is 
not of a very rich quality. Certainly, had the vast forest 
tracts, which have been planted with Scotch fir in many parts 
of the country, being planted with larches, at least in those 
soils and situations adapted for them, the estates would have 
been enhanced in value ; the larch bearing the ascendancy 
over the Scotch fir in the following important circumstances: — 
that it brings double the price at least, per measurable foot ; 
that it will arrive at a useful timber size in one half or a third 
part of the time in general which the fir requires : and, above 



NURSERY AND PLANTING^ 



99 



all, that the timber of the larch at thirty or forty years old, 
when placed in soil and climate adapted to the production of 
perfect timber, is in every respect superior in quality to that 
of the fir at a hundred years old. The general usefulness 
of the larch-timber is now pretty well known in most parts 
of this country ; it is therefore hardly necessary to enumerate 
the purposes to which it is applicable. It may be sufficient, 
perhaps, to state, that it is useful in ship-building, house-build- 
ing, in husbandry, and in cabinet-making." The larch is 
possessed of the properties of durability to an extraordinary 
extent, and is therefore well adapted for piles for the foun- 
dation of bridges, embankments by the sides of rivers, gate- 
posts, and indeed for every purpose where strength and dura- 
bility are required. 

The larch, like most of the resinous trees, is better when 
propagated from seeds than by other means. Indeed, with 
this division of plants, it is a difficult matter to increase them 
otherwise, although some of the rarer species of P'uiks are 
occasionally increased by layers, and some few by grafting. 
The larch produces seeds abundantly with us, not only on 
old trees but upon young ones also. The cones are ripe in 
November, December, and January, and should be collected 
from the healthiest and best trees. There are often cones of 
two years' growth upon this tree; but, in gathering, care should 
be taken to select those of the last year's growth. As they 
are gathered, they ought to be dried, so as to prevent a dis- 
position to turn mouldy, which would injure the seeds, if 
allowed to go too far. When sufficiently dry, they should be 
laid up in a dry loft till the spring, when they will require to 
be taken out of the cones previously to sowing. Some, how- 
ever, take out the seed during winter, but it is much better to 
keep them in the cones till spring. 

As the process is the same in regard to taking out the seeds 
from the cones of all the pine or fir tribe of trees, we will, 
for greater brevity, detail that process under a separate head, 
and where it is applicable to the others, we will occasionally 
refer to it. 



100 



THE PRACIK AL GARDENER. 



EXTRACTING THE SEEDS FROM THE CONES OF THE PINUS FAMILY. 

As the seeds of this valuable division of trees are matured 
within a hard scaly seed-vessel or cone, it is not without diffi- 
culty that they are extracted when they are required to be 
sown. Of all the coniferous trees, the larch, Scotch fir, cedar 
of Lebanon, and black American spruce, are the most difficult 
to part with their seeds, and hence many methods have been 
devised and adopted to facilitate that object. 

The use of fire-heat in differently constructed kilns has been 
very generally used, particularly with the extensive nurserymen 
in the North, for the purpose of opening the cones. Splitting 
the cones, with an instrument for the purpose, has been used to 
a great extent ; and grinding, either by the cone-mill or com- 
mon improved bark-mill, has been still more generally adopted. 
When the (juantity of seed required is small, the most conve- 
nient method of separating them is to split the cones into four 
equal pieces, by means of a small triangular iron or steel in- 
strument sharpened to a point, and having three cutting angles, 
put into a wooden handle like a shoemakers-awl. In per- 
forming the operation of splitting, the cone should be held 
between the fore-finger and thumb of the left hand, with 
the smaller end or point resting on a board. The point 
of the instrument is inserted in the centre of the broad or 
bottom end of the cone, and with a slight effort, the cone is 
divided into two portions; the same operation is performed 
with each halt^, which leaves the cone into four equal parts. 
The cones, thus divided, may then be placed on a sieve before 
a moderate fire, and the seeds will soon drop out on a piece 
of paper or cloth placed underneath on purpose to receive 
them. The splitting of the cones is often carried to a great 
extent by commercial nurserymen, and as the operation is 
performed in bad weather, or by old people or children, the 
expense is always covered by the larger quantity of uninjured 
seeds which is obtained by this method than by grinding them, 
which, although more expeditious, is destructive to a large 
portion of the seeds. Many of the pine tribe will open their 
cones before a moderate fire without being split, and when 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



101 



there is the conveniency of hot-house flues being kept mode- 
rately warm, seeds may be obtained in large quantities. We 
have often extracted considerable quantities of coniferous seeds 
by the simple process of placing the cones in baskets, sieves, 
or shallow boxes, having a large sheet of coarse paper spread 
over their bottoms on which the cones are placed. These are 
then placed on the top of the flues in the pine-stoves, vineries, 
or in any other house of equal temperature. Once a-day they 
are examined, and the seeds which have dropped out on the 
paper are removed and sprinkled with a little water. They 
are then laid on a table in the seed-room, until a sufficiency be 
extracted to fill a bag or drawer, when they are reserved till 
sown. Seeds of the larch, stone-pine, pineaster, &c., are 
readily obtained by this process. When the quantity to be ob- 
tained is considerable, the cone-kiln, as described by Sang, and 
which is the most general in use, is much to be preferred, and 
is as follows : — " The cone-kiln is constructed after the manner 
of a common malt-kiln, the bearers should be about nine feet 
disi:ant from the fire, and two inches apart. A hair-cloth is 
spread over them from side to side of the kiln, and the cones 
are laid on it to the thickness of twelve or fourteen inches. A 
gentle fire is then applied, and regularly kept up till the cones 
become opened. During the time of drying, the cones must 
be frequently turned upon the kiln, and when the seeds begin 
to drop out, they must be removed to a dry barn, and sifted 
till all the seeds which are loose fall out, and are taken from 
among the cones. The cones are afterwards to be thrashed 
severely with flails, and sifted as before, and so on, till the 
seeds are taken out as completely as possible." 

This we look upon as by far the most safe method of sepa- 
rating the seeds from the cones, and requires only care in the 
application of the fire-heat ; which, if it be too violent, would 
not only scorch and dry up the seeds and render them useless, 
but from the quantity of resinous matter contained in the cones 
might set fire to the whole fabric. As an improvement upon 
this plan, we would suggest, as has been recommended by 
Sang, the operation of splitting the cones previously to their 
being laid on the kiln, the extra expence of this operation will 
oe more than repaid in the extra quantity of good seed. 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



The use of the cone-mill, as well as that of the bark-mill, 
is railically bad, as many of the seeds are bruised and 
rendered useless that have passed through them, and this also 
ap})ears to have been the conclusion drawn by Sang, who had 
a very extensive knowledge in these matters in the Kirkaldy 
nurseries, which he so long and so scientifically managed and 
possessed. Indeed," he says, *' among all the methods 
which we have known adopted, to perform the painful and 
laborious work of extracting the seeds of the larch, the plan 
of splitting them singly is infinitely the best and safest for the 
seeds, and ought to be adopted by every one who has occasion 
to use only small quantities of seed." 

To facilitate the process of splitting cones, particularly 
such as are large, like the cedar of Lebanon, cluster-pine, &c., 
steeping them in water for a day or two previously to splitting 
them, may be advantageously adopted. 



The beginning of April is a very proper time to commence 
sowing larch-seeds, and from that period to the end of the 
first week in May, but after that it may be considered too late 
for the purpose. The ground for the larch seed-beds should 
be well prepared previously to this time, that is, it should be 
winter-fallowed, or dug two or three times during winter, but 
always in dry weather. Nurserymen, of great experience, 
recoMunend as the best preparatory crop for seedling-larches, 
that of two-year seedling Scotch firs, or if that cannot be had, 
land from which a crop of two-year seedling-larch has just 
been taken up. If the soil be moderately good of itself, a 
very slight dressing of rotten manure may be given, but this 
should be neither rank, nor in too great a quantity. The 
ground should be well broken in the process of digging, and 
rendered as fine as possible on the surface by repeated rak- 
ing ; and divided into beds, wliich is the best form for all the 
fir-tribe seeds to be sown in. If the seeds be good, and have 
been taken from the cones by the process of splitting them, 
they should be sown about a quarter of an inch apart, seed from 
seed ; but, if they have been extracted by the mill, they should 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



103 



be sown thicker, as a considerable number, to a certainty, will 
prove abortive, having been bruised in the operation. 

When the seeds are sown, they should be covered to the 
depth of a quarter of an inch, and previously to their beingcover- 
ed, a light wooden roller should be drawn over them to press 
the seeds firmly into the bed, as well as to place them all at an 
equal depth. While in the seed-beeds, larches should be care- 
fully and frequently weeded, for, if once overgrown with weeds, 
they will seldom do much good, at least for one season to come, 
however well they may afterwards be kept. This rule is ap- 
plicable to all seedling plants, and cannot be too often, nor yet 
too strongly recommended. 

In one season after sowing, the young larches will, if all 
circumstances have been favourable, have attained a sufficient 
size for transplanting ; but, as it is often desirable to have a 
number of two-year old seedlings, we would therefore propose 
selecting the strongest plants of the one-year old seedHngs, 
which may be done with safety, if a little care be taken in the 
operation ; and when they are taken up, they should be imme- 
diately again planted in nursery-lines, and are henceforth 
called transplanted trees, to distinguish tliem from those 
taken at once from the seed-bed, and planted out where 
they are to remain. If they are to be transplanted in the same 
nursery in which they have been reared fi'om seed, no more 
ought to be drawn from the seed-bed on one day than it is 
intended to plant before night, as nothing is so injurious to 
young trees in general, as to pull them from the seed-beds and 
leave them in the sheds, probably tied up in bundles, for a 
week, or even a month, before they can be planted. This, 
however, we often see done, and by those who ought to know 
better, and is like many other methods which are erroneously 
called by them saving of labour, but which is decidedly the 
very reverse, and is always fraught with the most serious in- 
jury to the plants. Larches, when transplanted into nursery- 
lines, should be allowed at least twelve or fifteen inches be- 
tween the lines, and from four to six in the line, and, during 
their stay in the nursery department, should be kept clear of 
weeds, &c. In regard to the size which the larch should be 
when fit to plant out, where it is to remain for timber, or for 



101 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



nursing up other trees, a considerable latitude may be taken ; 
but as a principle, which should never be overlooked, the 
younger they are planted out the more likely are they to 
succeed. Most of the deciduous coniferous trees are difficult 
to transplant when of a large size, whereas few trees succeed 
better when they ai'e planted young, and of course of a dimi- 
nutive size. Those, who have most successfully and exten- 
sively planted the larch, prefer trees not more than one year 
old, as seedlings, and which have been one year nursed in 
good ground, and those will be by that time about from six 
to nine inches in height, and if the soil has been good, will 
have an abundance of fibres ; a circumstance of far more im- 
portance to their future welfare than if they were twice as large 
in branches. Indeed, we would say, that larches above 
eighteen inches in height are much too large for planting, let 
the ground be ever so well prepared for them, and such as 
have pertinaciously persisted in planting them of a larger size 
have been uniformly disappointed in the end. 



Lime. — {Tiiia Europcca.) 

The lime is a native tree, and one of great beauty and m- 
terest, when considered merely in an ornamental point of view, 
and is suited either for the park, the lawn, or the avenue ; 
indeed, for the latter purpose, it would appear that it has been 
chosen by common consent at least for two centuries. As a 
timber-tree it has few merits, being in general used by carvers, 
gilders, &c., as the wood is soft, and easily cut; it is also used 
for charcoal for making gunpowder, and the inner bark is 
made into bass mats, so useful in covering up garden produc- 
tions, and packing of goods in general. The flowers are 
fragrant, and afford a great store of food for bees, and are, on 
the same account, often planted near the mansions of the 
gi*eat. Evelyn was exceedingly partial to this tree, and asserts, 
that the fra grance of its blossom is an admirable preventative 
against the epilepsy, or falling sickness. 

Limes are in general increased by layers, as being the most 
expeditious way, but as they ripen their seeds so plentifully, 
we can see no real reason why such a slovenly method of in- 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



105 



creasing them should be countenanced ; as it is well known 
that trees, originated from layers, cannot ever be expected to 
be equal to those propagated from seeds. The lime ripens its 
seeds in October, and should be sown as soon as gathered, by 
which means the seeds will vegetate the following spring; 
whereas, if not sown till the spring, they would not vegetate 
till the following year, and consequently one season would be 
entirely lost. Their after management, while in the nursery, 
is not different from that of other trees under similar circum- 
stances, and consequently need not be repeated. 

The lime is one of those few trees that will grow freely, 
although planted of a large size ; however, the best-sized trees 
from a nursery, to plant with a view to profit, are those from 
eighteen inches to three feet in height; nevertheless plants 
from that size to five or six feet, may be safely planted. As 
to soil, the lime is not particular ; it will grow in almost all 
soils, but flourishes best in a deep loam where it is moderately 
sheltered. Indeed, the lime is not a tree that is calculated to 
stand in the most exposed situations, and it is seldom planted 
in such, at least not in this country 

Limes propagated by layers may be operated upon in spring 
or in autumn, and at these seasons, March and October may 
be considered the best. In laying limes, the various processes 
of tonguing, sliting, ringing, &c., are dispensed with, as the 
plants are found to root so freely, when laid in the more simple 
method of merely bending a part of the shoot, so that it may 
be buried about three inches under the surface, having the 
leading end of the shoot shortened back to one eye, and that 
eye only a little above the surface of the ground : this bend is 
so performed, that the bark is not even cracked in the pro- 
cess. Those shoots laid in spring, will, for the most part, be 
fit to remove from the stool, and to be planted into nursery- 
lines the spring following that in which they have been laid, 
and so in most cases will it be with those which are laid in 
autumn. When the young plants are removed from the stools 
or mother-plant, they should be immediately planted out in 
nursery-lines about two feet apart, and a foot or fifteen 
inches apart, plant from plant, in the line. Here they may re- 
main until planted out, where they are to ren.ain. The stools 

* F 



1 III. rUACTICAL (iAUDENER. 



from which one crop ot layers hits been taken, will continue, 
under good niana^enient, for a number of years to })roduct 
yearly crops of plants; and as these plants in favorable soils 
are of sufficient size for sale the year after being removed from 
the stocks, at least they will be larger than plants of five 
years growth originated from seeds. Nurserymen find a 
great saving in adopting this mode of propagation, but tlie 
consequence falls on the planter, who is thus filling his 
ground with trees which will never be equal to those which 
have been originated from seeds. The consequence is oi 
far less importance if such trees be planted for copse-wood, 
as when cut down to the root, the future tree may, under proper 
training, be much altered for the better. 

Maple. — {Acer. Cam pest re.) 

The common maple is acknowledged as indigenous to Bri- 
tain, and is found in situations which can leave no doubt of 
the assertion. It is not a tree of value for its timber, but is 
ornamental, particularly when old, and probably less culti- 
vated than any other of our indigenous j)lants. It is propa- 
gated in the same manner as the sycamore, to which it is bo- 
tanically connected, but which is a far more valuable tree. 

Okk. --{Qucrcus liobar.) 

The oak has long and justly been regarded as the monarch 
of the wood, and it is one of the most generally useful and 
highly-prized trees that abound in our forests. The oak 
appears to be almost peculiar to Britain, no other country 
excelling us either in the beauty, magnitude, or quality of our 
oak timber, and this has been long ago noticed by our poets, our 
statesmen, and historians. Although Scotland abounds with 
oaks, yet there are not such specimens to be met with there 
as in England, some of which we have measured from thirty 
to forty feet in circumference Indeed, the larch may be now 
called the national tree of Scotland, for which that country is 
likely to be as famous as England has long been for the number 
and magnitude of its oaks. The oak is not very choice in 
regard to soil, for it prospers, although not with the same 
degree of vigour, in almost all soils, and in almost all situ- 



NURStRY AND PLANTING. 



107 



atioMS. " Jt tlirives best," Sang observes, " however, in strong 
deep loams, incumbent on gravel or dry rock ; but in all soils, 
in which there is any considerable proportion of loam, it w^ill 
thrive in a greater or less degree. In low situations, where 
the soil is deep and moist, it grows rapidly, and attains to a 
great size ; but in such places it is found to decay sooner than 
it does in a more elevated situation, with a drier soil. In light 
soils of little depth, although it grows slowly, it becomes firm 
in texture : and the timber, though smaller in size, acquires 
a state of maturity sooner than that grown on more cool and 
retentive soils. In deep cold sand it will root firmly, and 
arrive at a great size. In clay, incumbent on till, to which 
all other trees, excepting the beech and the sycamore, have 
an aversion, the oak will grow, and produce useful timber." 
In good soils, and in sheltered situations, the oak will make 
the most progress, and w^ill keep pace with many other kinds 
of trees ; whereas, on poor soils and in bleak exposed si'tu- 
ations, its progress will be but slow. In planting young oak 
plantations, therefore, it is necessary to plant other ; .ees of a 
hardier nature as nurses, to shelter and draw up the oaks, 
which, without" this assistance, would never attain the charac- 
ter or habit of fine timber-trees. The best tree to use for 
nursing up oaks is evidently the larch, which is a rapidly- 
growing tree, as well as a profitable one, even while in its 
young state. The oak is propagated only by seeds when the 
end in view is to propagate extensively ; but the scarce va- 
rieties and species of exotic oaks are and may be increased by 
grafting or inarching upon the common kind. 

The seeds of the oak are known by the name of acorns, and 
ripen every season in more or less quantities in England, and 
are in proper condition for being gathered about the middle 
of October. Acorns were the food of the early race of man- 
kind in almost every part of the temperate world, and in the 
days of Strabo the inhabitants of the mountainous parts of 
Spain ground them into meal. In times of scarcity they have 
been ground and made into bread, both in this country and \u 
many parts of the continent of Europe. " The study of 
Botany, and the encouragement given to agricultural and 
horticultural pursuits," Philips sensibly observes, " have so 
wonderfully improved the stale of this country, that what in 



108 



l lll- rUACTIt \L GAKDKM.R. 



early ages a king would have feasted on, the beggar now re- 
tuses, and the acorn is scarcely known as atKording nourish- 
ment to the human species, even among the wandering vagrants 
who pitch their tattered tents, and cook their scanty tare 
beneath the branches of the trees that produce them. 

" Acorns continued to be of so much importance, for many 
ages after they had been relinquished as tl\e food of man, that 
a failure of them frequently caused a famine, as the swine, 
which our woods and forests maintained, formed a principal 
part of the food of our ancestors. The author of the Saxon 
Chronicle, after describing the extraordinary famine and mor- 
tality of the year UK) records particularly the failure of masts 
in that year. 

We find that, as early as the end of the seventh centiUT, 
our Saxon ancestors had a law, and particular directions given 
them by King Ina, respecting the fattening of swine in woods, 
since his time called jxiirnage or pu/magc. Elfhelmus reserves 
the pannage of two hundred hogs for his lady in part of her 
dowry ; and acorns are particularly mentioned about the middle 
of the eleventh century, in a donation of Edward the Confessor. 

Before the Con(|uest, the Wealds of Sussex were one 
continued forest from Hampshire to Kent, principally of oak- 
trees, that were only valued by the number of swine which 
the acorns maintained ; and so accurately was the survey taken 
in William the Conqueror's time, that woods are mentioned in 
Doomsday Book, of one hog." The Romans, in the time of 
Strabo, were supplied principally with hogs fatted in the woods 
of (laul, and with us, to this day, acorns are used for the same 
purpose, as well as for the fattening of deer. 

Acorns are often sown immediately after being gathereil, and 
in that way succeed perfectly well ; they are also often kept 
in sacks or on a dry floor till February, when they are also 
sown with nearly the same success. In gathering the seeds, 
choice should be made of the finest specimens of trees, which 
has been already noticed, as they are more likely to produce a 
healthy and vigorous progeny than those which arc ill grown 
and stinted in their growth. 

At whatever season the seeds are sown, whether in autumn 
or spring, a much less diflerence will attend the result than is 
allowed by some ; if the seeds have been carefully selected. 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



100 



and the ground properly prepared for them, plants from eitlier 
sowing may be expected to prosper equally well. It is im- 
portant that the ground be sufficiently prepared for the recep- 
tion of the seeds, for if it be not done now, it cannot be done 
afterwards. For this purpose, it should be deeply and finely 
dug, and rendered fine and smooth by the use of the rake, 
and if the ground be not in a tolerably rich condition, we 
would recommend a moderate supply of well-rotted manure. 

The acorns may either be sown in beds or drills, but the 
latter is by far the better way where the intention is to allow 
the seedhngs to stand more than one season before transplant- 
ing, that is, in tlie seed-bed. They should be equally distri- 
buted either in the drill or on the bed, at about the distance 
of half an inch apart from each other, or rather more, and 
covered to the depth of two inches. 

Afler sowing, a watchful eye must be kept on the beds or 
drills, to guard them from the attacks of mice or rats, either of 
which would be equally destructive to them before they begin to 
vegetate. Traps should be thickly set over the ground, and 
other means adopted to keep under such destructive enemies. 

The general routine of imrsery culture, as to transplanting 
into nursery-lines, beds, &c., is the same as has been detailed 
for other forest-trees already noticed ; any reference, therefore, 
at present, to that part of their management, may be deemed 
superfluous. 

A tree of so much national importance as the oak, deserves 
our greatest care in rearing and finally planting out. Many 
plant at random, and never think that dillerent si)ecies of 
timber-trees require difierent soils to bring them to the greatest 
degree of perfection, but such is the case; and where adapt- 
ing the trees to the soil and situation has been attended to, 
the result has been highly satisfactory ; whereas, a total neg- 
lect to such arrangements has been attended with disa}>point- 
ments. Upon this subject Sang offers the following rational 
observations, which, we may add, are in accordance with our 
own: — We are clearly of opinion," says he, that the best 
method is to plant each sort in distinct masses or groups, pro- 
vided the situation and quality of the soil be properly kept in 
view. There has hitherto been too much random work carried 



110 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



on with respect to the mixture of different kinds. A longer 
practice, and more experience, will discover better methods in 
any science. That of planting is now widely extended, and 
improvements in all its branches are introduced. We, there- 
fore, having a better knowledge of soils, perhaps, than our 
forefathers had, can with greater certainty assign to each tree 
its proper station. We can, perhaps, at sight decide that 
hero the oak will grow to perfection, there the ash, and here 
again the beech ; and the same in respect to other trees. 

If, however, there happen to be a piece of land, of such 
a quality that it may be said to be equally adapted for the 
oak, the walnut, or the Spanish chestnut, it will be proper 
to place such in it in a mixed way, as the principals ; because 
each sort will extract its own proper nourishment, and will 
have an enlarged range of pasturage for its roots, and con- 
sequently may make better timber-trees. 

Although by indiscriminately mixing different kinds of hard- 
wood plants in a plantation, there is scarcely a doubt but 
that the ground will be fully cropped with one kind or other ; 
yet it very often happens, in cases where the soil is evidently 
well adapted to the most valuable sorts, as the oak, pcrliai)s 
that there is hardly one oak in the ground for a hundred that 
ought to have been planted. It not unfrequently happens, 
too, that even the oaks, or other hard-wood trees which are to 
be met with, are overtopped by less valuable kinds, or perhaps 
such as, all things considered, hardly deserve a place. 

" Such evils may be prevented by planting with attention 
to the soil, and in distinct masses. In these masses are in- 
sured a full crop, by being properly nursed for a time with 
kinds more hardy, or which afford more shelter, than such 
hard-wood plants. 

" There is no rule by which to fix the size or extent of any 
of thesL' masses. Indeed the more various they be in size, 
the better will they please the eye of a person of taste when 
grown up. They may be extended from one acre to fifty, or 
a hundred acres, according to the circumstances of soil and 
situation : their shapes will accordingly be as various as their 
dimensions." In regard to the size of oak trees at their time 
of planting, opinions are at variance, some advocating plants 



XURSERY AND PLANTING. 



Ill 



of a considerable size, and others such as are quite small and 
young, while a third recommends sowing or planting the acorn, 
where the future tree is intended to grow. Large plants of 
any tree cannot be with propriety planted to any extent, when 
the object is profitable planting ; and too small plants are also, 
in many cases, objectionable, particularly when the surface is 
rough, and the ground not prepared by ploughing or trenching. 

Oaks, that have stood two years in the seed-bed, and which 
have been afterwards planted out into nursery-lines for one 
year more to strengthen, may be considered the best of all 
plants for successful planting, and at that age are better fur- 
nished with fibres than when of a greater size or age. Next to 
these, we would say that the oaks which have been transplanted 
from the seed-bed, when one year old, into nursery-lines, and 
left in them for two seasons to attain strength, are the best. 

There are above forty species of oaks introduced into this 
country, all of which are timber-trees in their own countries, 
but are of too slow a growth, or of too delicate a nature, to 
attain a profitable size in this country. The two native spe- 
cies, the Quercus robar and Q. pe-diinculata, are by fiir the 
most valuable; and to them may be added, if planted in favor- 
able situations, the Turkey oak, Q. cerriSf which promises to 
become a most valuable addition to our forest timber-trees. 
Little attention has hitherto been paid by the collectors of 
acorns, to distinguish between the two British species above ; 
but this, like the gathering of seeds in general, is committed 
to those who know or care little about the matter. This, 
however, deserves attention, as the merits of the Q. pcdun- 
culata are evidently much greater than those of the Q. robaVf 
and is readily distinguished from the latter by the circumstance 
of the acorns being placed on long foot-stalks, whilst those of 
the robar are nearly sessile; and, independently of the supe- 
rior utility and hardness of the timber, the pedunculated oak 
is, in fact, the most magnificent of the two British sorts. 

Pine. — (Pi/^//5.) 

Of this very useful and interesting family there are about 
fifly species introduced. The greater part of which are, how- 
ever, cultivated only in a botanical point of view. The spe- 



112 TMF. PRACTICAL GARDENER. 

cies cultivated for timber are the P. Sylvestrisy or Scotch fir, 
Pinus Larix, ah'eady noticed, Pinus P'tceOy silver fir, and 
Pinus Abies J or Norway spruce fir. It is, however, very 
probable, that some of the other species may be worth culti- 
vation, as they appear abundantly hardy, and the timber 
appears to be ccpially valuable, when of suflicient age and 
size. Of these, the Scotch fir (Pinus Sylveslris) is by far 
the most generally planted, if we except the larch, either with 
a view to attain a timber size itself, or to nurse up other trees 
of a more valuable nature. 

SCOTCH FIR. 

This is probably the most hardy tree indigenous to our 
country, and is found, although in a stinted state, throughout 
the North of Europe, almost within the limits of perpetual 
snow, and is also found within the tropics. It appears to be 
naturally an inhabitant of barren mountainous districts, and in 
such is found to flourish much better than in more fertile and 
sheltered valleys. In rocky, sandy, or the most barren kinds 
of soils, its timber becomes most valuable, both in durability 
and beauty, and trees, self-sown, are, for the most part, pre- 
ferable to all others. The Scotch fir, like the larch, is only 
to be found in perfection in the highlands of Scotland ; and in 
that country are still to be met with the remains of forests of 
a very ancient date. The proper soil and situation for this 
tree are, according to Sang, " on the sides of mountains, in 
dells and hollows, among stones and rocks, beside rapid rivu- 
lets or mountain torrents, it is found in liifih perfection ; and 
if it stand single, it is of great beauty. In many parts of the 
Scotch highlands, where the soils are extremely various and 
much mixed, the Scotch fir has arrived at a good size, and 
often attained remarkable dimensions. In any kind of soil, 
from a sand to a clay, provided the substratum be rubble, or 
rock, it will grow and flourish : but, in wet, tilly soils, it ought 
never to be planted : because, wherever the roots have ex- 
hausted the turf or upper-soil, and begin to perforate the sub- 
soil, the tree languishes and dies." It will, however, grow, 
and indeed flourish, in almost every soil and situation, if not 
too rich, but not with the same degree of vigour; neither will 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



113 



the timber, in sucli, be alike valuable. How it attained the 
name of Scotch fir, is difticult to say ; for we do not find it to 
be a native particularly of that country, but also of most parts 
of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, and is found in perfect- 
ion in the torrid, temperate, and frigid zones. 

" It may, indeed," as Ponty observes, " be called the Plant- 
ers' Forlorn Hope, as, where it fails, the case is truly despe- 
rate. For instance, it is planted with success on the most 
barren commons, where no other tree nor plant (the heath ex- 
cepted) will grow. On sites, which are elevated and ex- 
posed to particular currents of wind, it often })rovcs the only 
tree that can be got up, except so far as others may rise under 
its shelter. In the sea-breezes, too, it is frequently observed, 
that while every plant around it bends to the blast, as if seek- 
ing protection, this holds its head erect, and bids defiance to 
the noxious gale." 

As a nurse, no other tree equals the Scotch fir, and, like the 
larch, it will become a large and valuable timber-tree, in soils 
and situations where no other tree would at all succeed. 
The disrepute into which this tree has fallen, of late years, is 
probably more to be attributed to the planter than to the tree. 
In soils, capable of bringing the oak, ash, chestnut, and 
similar trees, to perfection, it would be wrong to plant this fir, 
unless, as a nurse-tree, to be cut out while young, while it 
may, with every propriety, be planted with a view to produce 
timber-trees, in soils and situations decidedly unfit for cither 
of these to prosper in. Choosing fit soils and situations for 
different trees to be planted in has been too iittle attended 
to, and the erroneous practice of planting trees promiscuously 
in the same plantation, whatever the soil may have been, has, 
we think, been attended with sufficient disappointments to 
convince the observing planter of the truth of this assertion. 
The most successful result will always be from such })lant- 
ations where the kinds of trees have been suited to the soil 
and situation. 

The Scotch fir is increased most readily by seeds, which 
ripen in cones, annually, in December and January, and should 
then be gathered and laid in a dry loft or barn till the seeds 
are to be extrnctod from them, as has been rlirocffd for l.irch. 



114 



THE PRACTICAL GARDBNER. 



The seeds of various species of the P'lnus family will re- 
tain their vegetative properties for two or three years, if left 
within the cones, but soon lose that property after being 
extracted from them. Nurserymen, therefore, seldom take out 
the seeds until near the time of sowing, and, in a great mea- 
sure, calculate upon securing a crop of firs by strictly attend- 
ing to this point. In April, the seeds should be sown in beds 
of any convenient breadth, in ground which has been pre- 
viously prepared by digging, ike. ; and if the ground be poor, 
manure should be added ; but if manured for a light previ jas 
crop, it will be better. Ground, upon which a crop of peas 
has been grown the preceding summer, or any other kitchen- 
garden vegetable, excepting carrots, will be very suitable for 
a crop of seedling firs. The ground should be well broken 
in the process of digging, and should be raked as that process 
proceeds. When the beds are laid off', the seeds should be 
regularly sown on them, so that the plants may come up about 
a quarter of inch from each other. It is very necessary that 
care be taken in covering the seeds, that they be not buried too 
deep, nor yet left too near the surface ; upon an average, half 
an inch may be considered the proper depth at which they 
should be covered. After the seeds are sown, a watch should 
be kept over them, as they will be liable to be destroyed by 
birds of various kinds ; the usual methods of protecting seeds 
in gardens should be had recourse to, and pei*severed in, for 
if the birds once find their way to the seeds, it will be no 
easy matter to keep them off. When tlie seeds vegetate, and 
are a little advanced, they should be carefully gone over and 
hand-weeded, for, however trifiing this may appear, nothing is 
so injurious to crops of young firs, than to allow them to be 
overrun with weeds in the first stages of their growth. The 
earlier this work is performed, the less injury the crop will 
sustain, and the less time it will take to perform. " A thick 
rising crop of seedlings," says Sang, " is often converted into 
a thin one by delaying the weeding: while a thin crop is much 
improved by a timely and continued attention to weeding. A 
nurseryman who can neglect his young trees in the above 
respect, or even walk through his grounds when his young 
plants languish under weeds, without the severest compunc- 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



115 



tion exciting him to relieve them, is in no respect entitled to 
the name which he assumes." 

Scotch firs are sometimes transplated from the seed-bed, 
when one year old, and put out into nursery-lines, in which 
they generally remain for two years ; but more generally they 
are allowed to remain for two seasons in the seed-bed, and are 
then put out into nursery-lines for one year : at the end of 
that time they are in excellent condition for final planting out. 
When Scotch firs are allowed to stand more than two years 
in the seed-bed, they are entirely spoiled, and should seldom 
be allowed to stand more than one in the nursery-lines. The 
ground into which young firs are transplanted should be in 
good condition, and not exhausted by previous crops, and, 
indeed, if a light manuring be given it previously to their 
planting, they will be benefitted thereby. During their nursery 
culture, attention should be paid to keeping them clear of 
weeds, and in transplanting them to allow not less room than 
one foot between the lines, and the plant from plant in the line 
half that distance. When they have been for one year in 
the nursery-lines, having been transplanted when two-year old 
seedlings, they will be (if the ground be in a proper state) 
in much better condition for planting out than at any other age. 
This tree does not succeed when planted large, and few succeed 
better when of a proper size and age. Towards improving the 
quality of this timber, some attention should be paid to the 
trees from which the seeds are collected. The fir, like most 
other vegetables, which are continually originating from seeds, 
must be sporting into varieties, some of which have greater 
merits than others. This circumstance has given rise to a 
variety of opinions as to whether there be not several distinct 
species confounded under the general name of Pinus S?/l- 
vestriSf or Scotch fir. 

Among- 1 the most eminent of those who entertained thai 
opinion was the late Mr. Don, of Forfar, who, in a very ex- 
cellent paper in the Mem. of the Caledonian Horticultural 
Society, Vol. IL p. 121, describes several varieties; and wc 
find that notice hi\s been taken of the red-wooded variety by 
the celebrated Earl of Haddington, who may be considered 
the father of planting in Scotland. Others again deny the 



iir, 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



existence of distinct species, or even varieties, and assert that 
soil and situation arc all that are concerned in the matter. 
Soil and situation liave certainly great influence on the quality 
of timber, and probably, in no other case, so much as the one 
in (piestion ; but that there exist numerous varieties, if not 
distinct species of pines in our forests, we think few reason- 
able men will deny. As a consequence, wliich must then 
naturally follow, some of these varieties are better in the qua- 
hty of their wood than others, and when such can be ascer- 
tained, the jneference certainly should be given to them, and 
we doubt not that, by these means, the quality of Scotch fir 
timber might in future be much improved. The variety pre- 
ferred by Mr. Don, in the above communication, " is distin- 
guished by the disposition of its branches, which are remark- 
able for their horizontal direction, and for a tendency to bend 
downwards close to the trunk. The leaves are broader and 
shorter than tiie common kind, and are distinf^uishable at a 
distance by their much lii^hter and beautiful glaucous appear- 
ance. The bark of the trunk is smoother than in the common 
kind. 'Vhc cones are thicker, and not so much pointed." 
That distinguished botanist considered this variety as much 
more hardy, that it grows freely in almost all soils and situa- 
tions, and that it arrives at a considerable size much sooner 
than the common sort. 



SILVFR FIR, 

Is a native of the Al})s and Germany, and is ascertained to 
have been cultivated in this country in 1603. It is of very 
rapid growth while young, exceeding all the pine tribe in this 
respect, excepting the larch ; it attains a very magnificent size, 
and is peculiarly interesting in an ornamental point of view 
Beautiful specimens are to be seen at Woburn Abbey, which 
were planted by Miller, and at Cranberry-house, and othcT 
places. It attains the height of upwards of one hundred feet; 
and one of the trees at Woburn exceeds nine feet in circum- 
ference, four feet from the ground, and has a clean pruned 
trunk of seventy-five feet. The timber of this tree is in i)er- 
fection when about forty or fifty years old, and is equally 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



117 



valuable for most purposes to any other tree of the tribe. In 
regard to soil and situation the silver fir is not so particular as 
has been supposed, and is found to succeed on very opposite 
ones. " In a loamy soil, and elevated situation, (as at Castle 
Howard,)" Sang observes, " on a sandy or gravelly hill, (as at 
Woburn,) and in clayey soil, incumbent on till, on a high situa- 
tion, (as at Panmure,) the silver fir has arrived at a very large 
size." This tree has not hitherto been much planted merely for 
its timber, having been considered rather as an ornamental tree 
than a useful one, but there can be no doubt of its deserving the 
attention of planters, as the rapidity of its growth, and the 
value of its timber, which is not liable to warp, are equal to 
that of any other of the pine tribe. 

The cones of the silver fir ripen in October, and should be 
gathered as soon as ripe, for if left longer they are apt to open 
and give out their seeds. When gathered, they should be 
stored by in a dry loft till spring. In April, the seeds should 
be taken out of the cones and sown in beds in land of a mellow 
texture, and not exhausted too much by previous crops. In 
regard to the quantity of seed, it should be regulated in sow- 
ing so that the plants may come up about three to a square- 
inch, or if hardly so thick, the crop may be reckoned sufficiently 
plentiful. In covering, the necessary precaution must be taken 
that it be done in a careful and regular manner^ so that all the 
seeds may be of an equal depth ; for when this is not attended 
to, some will be buried too deep, while others will not be deep 
enough, and both are thereby alike liable to be destroyed. The 
covering should not be less than one inch in thickness, and 
when laid on the bed, should be smoothed with the back of a 
rake, to give the whole a neat and finished appearance. 

Silver firs should be allowed to stand two years in the seed- 
beds, and during that time they should be kept entirely free of 
weeds. When planted out at that age into nursery-lines, they 
should be allowed at least nine inches between the lines, and the 
plants six inches apart in the line, if the intention be for them 
to remain only for one year in that state ; but if they be in- 
tended to remain for two years, they should be allowed two- 
thirds more room. The silver fir, from its habit of growth, 
requires more room than most others of the same family ; and 



118 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



if they be stinted for room in the first instance, they seldom, if 
ever, recover. The silver fir requires at least to be nursed for 
two years from the seed-bed, before it be in a fit state for final 
planting out, although some plant them when only one year 
nursed; and, at that size, adopt the slit-method of planting. 
We would, however, recommend giving them not less than two 
years in the nursery-lines ; and when planted out, to be ]Mtted, 
as a more likely way of ensuring success. This fir, like most 
ever-greens, may be safely transplanted at a considerable age 
and size ; but when the object in view is profitable planting, those 
of the above size will be found, under most circumstances, to 
succeed the best. 

Spruce Fir or Norway Fir. — ( Pinus Abies. J 

Is a native of the north of Europe, and is particularly abund- 
ant in Norway, and is imported by us from that country under 
the name of white deal. It is supposed to have been cultivated 
in this country about 1518, and has been, and continues to be, 
very generally planted in all parts of the British empire. It is 
one of the loftiest of our hardy trees, and has been known to 
have attained 150 feet in height. 

This is a valuable tree, considered as a nurse for protecting 
other trees, as it is extremely hardy, and being ever-green, is 
calculated for affording a better shelter than the larch, and 
equally, if not better, than the Scotch fir ; but it excels the 
latter in being much more valuable in its young state, and is 
peculiarly adapted for masts, spars, scaflblding poles, &c., as 
its habits in general, whether growing in groups or individually, 
is perfectly straight and erect. 

When grown into a timber size, it is inferior to that of the 
Scotch fir in durability and bulk ; and being often knotty, is 
less fit for supporting horizontal pressure. In regard to soil 
and situation, the spruce is by no means difhcult to be accom- 
modated ; it will grow and thrive in soils of very opposite 
qualities. It, however, succeeds best in deep loams and low 
situations. In sheltered situations where the soil is middling 
good, the timber becomes most valuable. The seeds of this 
fir are abundantly produced, and ripen in December, at which 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



119 



period they should be gathered and kept in the cones till April, 
when they should be taken out and sown in every respect as 
already noticed for Scotch fir. 

Balm of Gilead Fir. — (Pinus Balsamea.) 

Is a native of America, of much smaller and more delicate 
habits than the silver fir, and of little value as a timber-tree. 
It is not unfrequently cultivated round the skirts of our plant- 
ations and shrubberies as an ornamental tree ; and for such 
situations it is not unaptly calculated, as the tree, during sum- 
mer, sends out a pleasing turpentine odour, and the resin oozing 
from the cones has a singular appearance. 

In its native country, this species attains the size of a con- 
siderable tree ; but is not likely ever to become an inhabi- 
tant of our forests in the character of a profitable timber-tree. 
Its seeds ripen freely with us, and should be taken out and 
sown as directed for silver, and other trees of the same genus. 

American Spruce Firs. — {Pimis Nigra, Alba and Rubra.) 

These three species are natives of America, and abound in 
that country in many different soils and situations. They are 
imported by us in great quantities annually, under the name of 
American pine, to distinguish it from Memel or Baltic timber, 
which is the wood of the Norway spruce. 

Of these the black spruce, P. nigra, is considered the best 
and most durable, and is much used in American ship-building. 
The timber of the red spruce, P, rubra, is much prized for sail 
yards throughout the United States ; and, indeed, for the same 
purpose it is imported into Liverpool from Nova Scotia. Sang 
asserts that the white spruce, P. alba, is a very hardy tree, and 
will thrive better, and make finer plants in exposed situations 
than the common or Norway spruce. " It can hardly be ad- 
mitted," he says, " as a border-tree in a shrubbery or small 
plantation, because it quickly attains so gTeat a size, and offers 
to make valuable timber. It is now pretty generally raised 
from seeds, and is sold in most of the nurseries as a forest-tree.'* 
The red and black spruces have been treated with unjust con- 



1^0 



THE niAtnCAL GARDENER. 



tempt, in consequence of their being in general propagated by 
layers; a mode of propagation, of all others, the most likely to 
bring into disrepute any tree, whatever its natural merits may 
DC. The seeds of these species are readily procured from 
America, and such only should be used in the production of 
youiiij plants. 

In regard to soil and situation, the American spruce will thrive 
in moist loamy soils and somewhat sheltered situations ; yet, 
in light and dry soils, it attains a considerable size, provided 
shelter be but very moderate. The white spruce should be 
allowed to remain for two years in the seed-bed ; and when 
transplanted into nursery-lines, should be allowed a foot dis- 
tant between the lines, and six inches between plant and plant 
in the line ; and in such lines they should remain for two years, 
by which time they will, under reasonable circumstances, have 
attained a size fit for linal transplanting. Seeds of this species 
often ripen in this country, but those from America are always 
to be preferred. The cones of the black and red spruce also 
ripen but rarely; therefore the nurserymen chiefly depend on 
seeds from their native country. The seeds are not difficult to 
be taken out of the cones; and, indeed, if laid on the floor of a 
room, spread on pa])er or cloths before a moderate Are, the 
seeds will, with little difficulty, be extracted. 

When sown in April a rather damp, and somewhat shaded 
spot should be chosen for them ; and when they have been up 
for two years, they should be taken up from the seed-bed and 
transplanted into lines, where they should remain two years 
longer, when they may be considered Ht for planting out. 

Cedar of Li:banon. — {Pinus Cedrus.) 

The cedar has always been considered a most valuable tree, 
but with us it can be considered scarcely in any other light than 
that of an ornamental one, although there are many specimens 
in this country of a large size; still the time which they require 
to attain that bulk is so long, that they are not likely ever to be 
planted with an eye only to profit. As an ornamental tree no 
other excels it ; and in situations moderately sheltered, it may 
be obtained in considerable perfection. It is a native of the 



NIIRSI.HY AND PLANTINO. 



coldest parts of tlie mountains of Libanus, Amanus, and Tuu- 
riis, but is not now to be found in tbose plaiTs in any «^n'at 
abundanco. arc informed by Ahuuubell, in bis journey 

from Aleppo to Jerusalem, in ibat lie could reckon oidy 

sixteen large trees of tins kind, one of wbicb was twelve yards 
fc^ix inclies in circumference, and tbirty-seven yards in tbc 
spread of its bougbs. It is calculated tbat tbere are now many 
more cedars in J^ngland tban in all l^alestine, altbouu^b only 
introduced in l()8i3. Tbe oldi^st specimens are sujiposcd lo l)e 
tbe two in tbc Apotbecarics' l^otanic Garden at Cbelsi a ; but 
tbere are some of nuicb i^reater dimensions in various ])arts of 
England. Zion House, \\ bidon Park, Stow, Warwick Castle, 
and Pain's Hill, are all noted for tbe size of tbeir cedars ; and 
we bave reckoned above one bundred trees in tbe p.u k at C'lare- 
mont alone, tbe majority of wbicb are supposed to bave been 
planted by Lord Clive, and bave attained a very considerable 
size. Tbe cedar ripens its seeds in many parts of I'.ngland, 
and from sucb seeds plants are often obtained ; but tbe best 
seeds are procured from tbe Levant, and seldom are iound de- 
fective, as tbe seeds will keep (juite safe in tbe conc lor several 
years after being taken from tbe tree. In regard to sucb cones 
as are procured in tins country, tbe seeds sbould be extracted 
in spring, by sj)litting tbe cones witb a triangular instrument; 
and to facilitate tins process tbe more, tbe cones may be steeped 
in water for a day or two before tbc splitting connnences. 

Tbe seeds of tbis tree, unlike tbat of almost all otber trees, 
are improved by keeping for a time ; at least it is fouiul in prac- 
tice to be beneficial to allow tbem to lie by for one year at least 
after gatbering, during wbicb tiuie tbe seeds, wbicb are quite 
soft wben taken from tbe tree, become bard, and tbe rosin witb 
wbicb tbe cones are so fully cbarged, is gradually discbarged. 
Wben tbe seeds are taken from tbc cone, tbey sbould be im- 
mediately sown in boxes or i)ans, in properly prepared ligbt 
loamy eartb, and covered to tbe dcptb of balf an incb ; or tbey 
may be sown on a well-sbeltered border, in a similar soil, and 
kept clear of weeds after tbey come tbrougb tbe ground. Wben 
one year old, tbey sbould be transplanted into nursery-lines, 
in wbicb tbey sbould remain for two years to gain strengtb ; 
and afterwards, if tbey be taken up and replanted carefully 

* It 



THE rRACTICAL GAKDENER. 



at greater distances, tbcy will, from thence, be fit to plant out, 
where they are permanently to remain. 

The cedar, in most soils, makes few fibrous roots ; hence the 
difliculty of getting large-sized plants to succeed, and small 
plants, although ultimately they will out-grow such as may 
have been planted of greater size, are not always profitably 
planted, as it is several years before they can at all protect 
themselves. To remedy this defect, as well as to have a sup- 
ply of good-sized trees on sale, the best nurserymen grow them 
in pots from the time they are sown until they are planted, at 
probably a height of six or ten feet. The seeds are sown in 
pans, and when fit for removal, are potted into small pots, one 
plant in each ; as they grow, they are repotted into larger pots, 
and their leading shoot carefully trained as it advances, so that 
fine trees may be obtained of a large size ; and the roots being 
well supplied with fibres, and the ball compact, they may be 
planted or sent to a great distance with perfect safety. The 
cedar, like most of the pine family, does not thrive well in the 
vicinity of large towns : the proper situation for all the species 
is that of an elevated spot and pure air. 

Weymoltii Pine. — iPinus Strobus.) 

This species is a native of America, and forms the connecting 
link between the pine and larch tribe. It is a valuable timber- 
tree in its native country, and attains the height of one hundred 
feet, but is by far of too delicate a nature ever to lead us to ex- 
pect it will be beneficially planted here, unless in situations 
peculiarly sheltered and warm. From its well-known merits as 
a timber-tree, it has been extensively planted in many parts of 
the kingdom, but we are not aware of its having succeeded to 
any useful extent. It was introduced in 1705, and very rapidly 
s|>read over the empire, as it was then supposed to be the most 
valuable tree of the genus, next to P. Syli'cstris. 

The Weymouth pine ripens its seeds in this country, although 
it is not sufficiently hardy to become a large or useful tree. 
'J'he seeds are ripe in October, and should be gathered without 
delay, as they are very liable to drop out of the cones, if left too 
long on the trees. When collected, they should be laid up in 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



]53 



a dry loft till spring, when the seeds may be taken out and 
sown in April, in beds of mellow ground, where they should 
remain not more than two years, and should not be transphmted 
sooner. A half humid soil is tlie most favorable for them while 
in the nursery ; and a period of two years nursing in lines fits 
them for final planting out, where they are to remain. The 
elegance of this tree renders it admissible into all ornamental 
plantations. As a single tree, in a sheltered rather damp 
situation, it becomes a large and handsome tree ; but it is only 
in the grove, when planted closely together, that it is to be 
looked for as a tree of value. Indeed, such is the case with all 
the fir tribe, to have fine clean timber-trees, they must be 
closely planted, so as to shelter, draw up, and prune each 
other. 

It is successfully transplanted when of a considerable size, 
but always succeeds best when planted out for good when 
about four years old from seed. 

The remainder of this family that are likely to be profitably 
planted, are the pinaster or cluster pine, (P. pinaster,) and the 
stone pine (P. pine a) ; but as neither is equal to those 
already noticed, we may merely observe that as both ripen their., 
seeds with us about December, their gathering, sowing, and 
nursery culture are the same as that already laid down for the 
other species of the Finns genus. The former was introduced 
in 1596, and the latter in 1570. Its seeds are esteemed a de- 
licacy by the Chinese, as well as the natives of the south of 
Europe, and appear in their ripe state as an article in their 
choicest desserts. 

Sycamore, or Plane. — {Acer-Pseudo-platanus,) 

Is an indigenous tree, and attains a magnitude equal to that 
of any other of our native trees, and although more tame in its 
outline and form than the oak, is nevertheless a handsome park 
tree. It attains a large size in almost all soils which are not 
over wet, and in almost all situations. In poor dry soils it 
attains a valuable size ; but in a loamy soil becomes very large 
within a century. Sang says it outhves the ash in elevated 
situations, and becomes of a very large size in alluvial soils of a 



121 



Tin: riiAcncAL gakdicni r. 



sandy nature. It attains a great age, and is, in that respect, 
perhaps, next to the oak and yew in point of longevity. Sang 
instances the Prior-Letham Planer a tree of some notoriety, 
being one of the two trees discovered in Scotland by Dr. John- 
son in his Northern Tour. This tree has attained the amazing 
bulk of twenty-four feet eight inches in circumference at the 
surface of the ground, and at the parting of the branches nine- 
teen feet. The trunk is twelve feet high, and at that height 
divides into ten large branches, each ecjual to a considerable 
sized tree. It is mentioned in a lease that was granted of these 
grounds nearly two hundred years ago, and is there called 
" the large Plane," and cannot probably be less than five 
hundred years old. The plane succeeds in all ordinary soils 
and situations, and is, with the elder and larch, the best deci- 
duous nurse plant we have. It is well calculated for a hedge- 
row tree, as it alibrds more shelter when grown up than any 
other tree. It is a quick grower, and will endure the sea 
breeze better than any other tree, nor is it liable to grow to 
one side when exposed to winds which blow chiefly in one 
direction ; should it be too closely pressed, and become mis- 
shapen by other trees or obstructions, it will, very soon after 
the removal of the obstruction, assume its own regular form, 
and become equally poised. 

The seeds or keys ripen in September, and are easily pro- 
cured, but should not be allowed to become too ripe, as, in that 
state, they are liable to l)e shaken down by the wind. They 
should be collected when perfectly dry, and laid by in a dry airy 
loft, and freiiuently turned over during the winter to prevent 
mouldiness or decay. They should be sown in March or April, 
in light mellow ground ; and as the foliage, even of tlie young 
plants, is pretty large, they ought not to be sown too thick. 
Having been one season in the seed-bed, they are in a fit state 
for transplanting into nursery lines, and when nursed there for 
two seasons, may be planted out for good. \\ hen plants of a 
larger size are required than those which have been transplanted 
two years, they should, in that case, be taken up at the end of 
the second year, and replanted in lines, allowing from one-third 
to one-half more room between the lines and plants. Syca- 
mores succeed when planted of a considerable size and age, but 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



in extensive plantations, plants from four to five years old from 
seed will always succeed best. 

There are many species of maple, (to which family the Syca- 
more belongs,) but none of them are likely ever to be cultivated 
with a view for timber-trees in this country ; and indeed the 
demand for this timber has been on the decline of late years, 
since the demand of wooden household dishes has been almost 
supplied by the superior manufacture of earthenware, and the 
wood of the sycamore is now used chiefly by the cooper, and in 
some parts of machinery. 



Poplar. — (Populus.) 

Of this genus there are several species that may be considered 
as timber-trees, and are all of them of exceedingly rapid 
growth; of them the white poplar, Abele, {Populus Alba,) is con- 
sidered one of the most valuable, and with the black, (P. Nigra,) 
the trembling, (P. tremula,) and the Lombardy poplar, (P. dila- 
tata,) may be considered the most valuable to the profitable 
planter. The other species merit more general cultivation 
than they appear to do at present, as they are all extremely 
ornamental when in selected situations, and under certain cir- 
cumstances. The wood of all the species is sofi;, as is the case 
generally with rapidly growing trees, and although they are upon 
the whole short lived trees, compared with their neighbours in 
the grove, yet the wood of them is by no means liable to decay. 
The wood being soft, is much used by the sculptor, turner, and 
toy-maker, and occasionally by the cabinet-maker and musical 
instrument maker. The bark of P. nigra is sufficiently astrin- 
gent to be used successfully in the process of tanning leather. 

The Abele may be said to have been principally brought into 
notice as a valuable timber- tree, by Lord Sheffield, who used it for 
floors at Sheffield Place, Sussex ; and by Ponty, who not only 
recommended it in his valuable work on profitable planting, but 
also introduced it in many of the extensive plantations which he 
has so successfully superintended in various parts of England. 
The latter, speaking of the above floors, says that, in appear- 
ance they " are superior to any other floor he has seen, whether 



126 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



of deal or oak ; and, as to durability, I see" he says, " no reason 
to doubt of that, if the density and weight of the article be con- 
sidered in connection with such testimonies as books aflbrd rela- 
tive to the point. Floors are, however, only one of the many in- 
ferior purposes for which it is ai)plicable, as it is certainly proper 
for almost every article of furniture usually made of mahogany. 
For the lighter descriptions of it, now so fashionable, it may 
be made a very good substitute, without any other addition to 
the natural colour of its heart, than the means cabinet-makers 
usually resort to, in order to heighten the colour of such wood ; 
and with respect to the sap, and where more of colour is re- 
quired, the acpia-fortis stain will instantaneously produce it, so 
far as that it would be difficult to distinguish it from real ma- 
hogany. Indeed it is equal to the best in colour and smooth- 
ness of surface, and much superior to the plane, or inferior 
sorts in those respects, as well as transparency and variety ; 
and it has the further advantage over mahogany, and most 
other woods, that it takes but little of either oil or rubbing, to 
produce upon it the sort of mellow shining surface so much 
admired in furniture that has been some years subjected to 
proper attention." The Dutch, in Evelyn's time, had so high 
an opinion of this tree, that they looked upon a plantation of 
them as an ample portion for a daughter, and none of the least 
effects of their good husbandry. 

The bhick Italian poplar appears to have been introduced 
into this country since the days of Miller, as no mention is 
made of it in his dictionary; as a timber-tree it begins now to 
rank rather high, and is strongly recommcniled by Ponty, who 
says it was first sent to Scotland from America, and dissemi- 
nated through the extensive connexions of the Dicksons and 
Co. of Ilassendean-burn. It is not easily accounted for how it 
should have obtained the name of black Italian, as it is unknown 
even in a general cultivated state in that country. This species 
is an astonishingly quick grower, even, as Ponty observes, 
** on every sort of soil that may be called tolerable, though it 
certainly luxuriates most of all in deep fertile ones, while its 
timber is applicable to purposes sufficiently numerous ; among 
which is that of making good floors ; and therefore no doubt 
need be entertained of its always commanding purchasers. In 



NURSERY AND PLANTINO. 



127 



that sort of phinting, which perhaps may be considered tlie most 
profitable of all, namely, that which adds to the comfort and 
consequence, and, of course, the value of a place, before but 
scantily furnished with that important appendage— wood, this 
tree is excellent ; as, in judicious hands, it may be made to pro- 
duce very considerable etiects, while many others (highly 
esteemed) w^ould produce them in prospect oidy. In short, for 
distant scenery, when wood, not species, is the immediate oh- 
jccti this plant, hitherto in many places a stranger, is clearly 
superior to all the family of the forest." 

The poplar family flower in March and April, and perfect 
their seeds in about three or four weeks afterwards ; but as 
poplars are seldom originated by seeds, but by cuttings, we 
need only say that v/hen it is intended to propagate by seeds, 
they should be sown as soon as gathered, in moderately ricii 
soil, somewhat moist and finely pulverized, and great care taken 
in covering the seeds, as they are very small and liable to be 
buried too deep. The mode of originating by cuttings is much 
the speediest method, and is therefore the most practised. The 
facility by which even large branches of most of this family 
emit roots is such, that cuttings of several feet in length and 
some inches in diameter, are not unfrequently made use of ; but 
to obtain the best trees, to be afterwards planted, cuttings of 
much smaller dimensions should be chosen. There are a few 
species which are found to propagate better by layers than by 
cuttings, among which are the black Athenian (P. Grccca), and 
some others. The best cuttings of poplars are taken from the 
wood of the preceding year, and when made, each cutting 
should be nine inches in length, and planted in nursery lines 
eighteen inches apart, and the cuttings about six inches distant 
from each other. When inserted in the ground, they should 
be put in deep enough to resist the drought, and if only two 
inches of the top appear above ground, it will be found suflicient. 
In two years, or three at most, these cuttings will be fully 
grown to fit them for being finally })lanted out; but if they are 
to remain the third year in the nursery, they ought to be taker 
up and replanted at a greater distance. The white poplar 
often sends up naturally vast numbers of suckers from its roots, 
and such are sonietimes used for young plants ; cuttings are, 



128 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



however preferable. Langley asserts, that he has known 
great quantities produced by chips only, where the trees liad 
been hewed after felling ; and one old author has proposed 
ploughing down these chips with a view to produce an eco- 
nomical copse. 

Walnut. — {J t/gla ns rcgia.) 

The walnut-tree is evidently a native of Persia and China, 
and the Grecian names for its fruit, says Phillips, of " Per- 
sicon and Basilicon, Persian or royal nut, besjx'ak it to have 
been brought from Persia either by the monarchs of Greece 
themselves, or sent thither from the kings of Persia." The 
name, walnut, seems to be derived from Gaul jiuty the seeds 
or nut5 being first imported from France, and the generic 
nsLvnCy Jt/g/a/iSj from Jovis-glans, a name given them, according 
to Pliny, by the Romans, and which the Latins translated 
Diu-glanSy from whence our Juglans. The walnut is one of 
the trees which was well known to the ancients, and is much 
noticed by their poets and historians, and many extraordinary 
virtues are related to have been due to this tree. 

It is stilted in the Ilortus Kcwciisls to have been introduced 
in 1562, but there is reason to suppose that its date of intro- 
duction must be much earlier ; for old Gerard, who wrote 
about thirty years only after that date, says, The walnut- 
tree groweth in fields neere common highwaics, in a fat and 
fruitfull ground, and in orchards." And TurncM', in his Herbal, 
of 1j(>1, speaks of it as being so common as to need no de- 
scription. It appears to have been extensively cultivated in 
this country for the sake of its wood, which was almost uni- 
versally used for all kinds of valuable furniture previously to 
the introduction of mahogany, which latter circumstance did not 
take place till the beginning of the eighteenth century. In some 
parts of Germany, no young farmer is allowed to marry until 
he gives satisfactory proofs of having planted a stated number 
of walnut-trees. The walnut has never been very extensively 
planted in this country, considering the size to which the tree at- 
tains, and the usefulness of the timber, and this is the more sin- 
gular as this timber has been known to have brought very higli 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



129 



prices, particularly during the late war, for the purpose of 
making gun-stocks. The tree is hardy, and we do not recol- 
lect to have seen, even in the north of Scotland, a disposition 
in this tree to become stinted in growth, where the soil was 
at all good and the situation sheltered. It thrives in almost 
all soils that are not too wet, but it attains the greatest bulk 
in such as are rich and deep; but the timber on such as 
are thin and poor, is far more valuable, although less in 
bulk. In loamy or light clayey soils, it attains a good timber 
size within a century ; and for gun-stocks, for which it is prized 
above all other woods, it is fit at fifty years' growth or sooner. 
As an ornamental tree, the walnut has very just pretensions ; 
the general habit of the tree, as well as the beautiful lobed 
leaves, associate well with garden scenery. It is fit for the 
decoration of the lawn or the park as a single tree, but when 
valuable timber is in view, it should be planted in the grove 
fashion, so that one tree may draw the other up. The best 
specimens of this tree that we have observed, have, to all 
appearance, been so drawn up ; and when cleared, at a proper 
age, of the surrounding trees, have become magnificent objects. 

Walnuts produce their seeds in most seasons in this country, 
and by that means are readily increased. The nuts or seeds 
ripen in October, and should be gathered, and either sown 
immediately or packed in boxes of sand till the spring. Upon 
this subject Miller observes: "All the sorts of walnuts which 
are propagated for timber, should be sown in the place where 
they are to remain • for the roots of these trees always incline 
downwards, which being stopped or broken, prevent them 
aspiring upwards, so that they afterwards divaricate into 
branches, and become low spreading trees. But such as are 
propagated for fruit are greatly improved by transplanting, for 
thereby they are rendered more fruitful, and the fruit is, there- 
fore, larger and better. It being a common observation, that 
downright roots greatly encourage the luxuriant growth ot 
timber in all sorts of trees, but such trees as have their roots 
spreading near the surface of the ground arc always the most 
fruitful and best flavored." Evelyn, who wrote previously, 
says, that those who plant nuts for the sake of the fruit, should 

* s 



130 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



place a tile below tlie nut, that the roots may be obliged to 
spread out horizontally. 

The nursery practice of rearing walnuts, is to sow the seeds 
either when gathered or in the February or March following, 
in beds of moderately rich ground, and the trees are managed 
similar to those which have originated in the same way. In 
transplanting walnuts, either in the nursery or at a future 
period of their growth, great care should be taken that their roots 
be as little injured as possible, neither should their branches 
hv l)r()keii upon any account, both of which is injurious to 
them. The best time for transplanting them is in autumn, as 
soon after the foliage drops as possible ; and trees of a small 
size, let it be remembered, will succeed better than such as 
are large. The walnut seems impatient of pruning, and is, 
u})on the whole, more injured by an application of the knife 
than an almost total neglect of it. The i)runing of nature is 
the best for this tree, in common with several other forest 
trees : and if planted in the grove manner, either by them- 
selves or along with other trees, the lashing of each other's 
l)ranclH's will be sufficient to effect what the pruning-knife 
never could have done, without evident injury to the timber. 



Willow.— (Salix.) 

Although some species of willow attain the size of timber- 
trees, by far the greater portion of them are small shrubs, and 
only fit for cultivating in osier grounds. Of those that attain 
a timber size may be noticed, as the best, S'aiix alha, the 
Huntingdon willow, and Salix liusselliariay the Bedford wil- 
low. The upland willow of Ponty, appears to be only a va- 
riety of the former, and is distinguished by its silvery-like 
leaves and deep red shoots. 

The Huntingdon willow attains the size of a lofty tree, and 
seems common over all Europe, being found both in a natural 
and cultivated state in Russia, Sweden, and Italy. The Bed- 
ford willow is so called in compliment to His Grace the Duke 
of Bedford, who is an enthusiastic encourager of every thing 
connected with rural economy and the arts. The \\'oburn 



PLANTING AND NURSERY. 



131 



collection of willows is amongst the richest in the kingdom. 
This latter tree has a great resemblance to the former, in general 
habit, and like it, is a very rapid grower, and soon attains a 
great bulk of timber. The willow tribe, considered as timber- 
trees, have hitherto been much neglected, and as Ponty very 
justly observes, " This plant, though well known as a pollard, 
has been very little cultivated as a timber-tree, and hence fur- 
nishes a striking instance of the supineness of mankind in 
regard to the properties of many sorts of wood. Every one 
knows the vrillows are quick growers, and yet it is considered 
a sort of heresy to suspect that the wood of any of them can 
be at all durable. There is, besides, an objection to this wil- 
low, inasmuch as it usually divides itself into a number of 
large arms before it acquires any tolerable length of stem : this 
defect is to be entirely imputed to ignorance or inattention, 
as few trees require so little management to be made grow 
with a long clean and straight trunk." In regard to ornament, 
this willow is not without its share ; and, as Sang observes, 
" Were the Huntingdon willow not so very common, and so 
frequently met with in low or mean scenery, it might perhaps 
be reckoned more ornamental than many of the other kinds. 
They certainly are very elegant plants while young and in 
middle age ; and if not picturesque when grown old, yet there 
is something very striking in their hoary and reverend ap- 
pearance." 

Willows are naturally found in damp situations, by the sides 
of rivers, lakes, or brooks, and in such situations are success- 
fully and profitably cultivated ; as no other tree, the alder ex- 
cepted, would grow in such situations. The Huntingdon 
willow, however, will prosper in situations perfectly dry, and 
even elevated ; and, if planted in the grove manner, will make, 
next to the larch, probably the quickest return of any other 
tree. Its bark is used in tanning, and contains about the 
same proportion of astringency as the birch or mountain-ash. 
The timber of the willow is used in turnery, machinery, and 
by the cooper, both for staves and hoops. 

To the willow-planter we may add, that the following arc 
and may be profitably planted in situations too wet for other 
trees to succeed in: — The golden willow {Salix vitcUina) ; 
triandrous willow {Salix Ir'utndria) ; tlic ronnnon osier {Salix 



132 



Tin: IMIACTICAL GARDENER. 



riuiinalis) ; tlie green osier {Salix rubra); the eared willow 
{Salid' sfipuhiris) ; the basket willow (Salix forbz/ana) ; and 
the velvet osier {Salix woUissima) : these are valuable wil- 
lows, and in most situations will pay better than any other 
plant. The t\7o-ycar-old shoots of the second and last sorts 
are valued by the basket-maker ; and those of one year's growth 
of the others are in equal request. They are all propagated 
by cuttings which root freely, and plantations of them are 
often formed in this manner : Willows are generally planted 
by being pushed into the ground by the hand, which must be 
well defended by a i)iece of strong leather ; but sometimes in 
pushing in the cutting, the bark is pressed off. In order to 
prevent this, it is better to use a common dibble, shod with 
iron, and have them planted by it like ordinary planting in 
the nursery. Where the ground is any way hard, or where 
there is a danger of pushing off the bark, they should be 
planted so as to leave five or six inches above ground, that 
when it may become necessary the top of the stools may be 
cut oir, in order to renovate them. This may ha})pen to be 
in ten or twelve years after jdanting, and the practice will be 
found of considerable advantage. It is a matter of indiflerence 
whether cuttings be planted in a sloping or perpendicular 
position. 



Having noticed the propagation of the useful forest-trees cul- 
tivated in this country, with a view to profit as well as orna- 
ment, we will now proceed to notice the various methods of 
propagating such as are planted for ornament alone, or do not 
attain a size, under ordinary circumstances, in this country, to 
warrant their admission into the forest. 

Yew. — {Taxtis Baccata.) 

The yew is a native of many parts both of England and 
Scotland, but particularly the former, and is a tree of great 
longevity and hardihood. It is most generally found in sta- 
ture little other than a large shrub, but, as Sang justly ob- 
serves, — *' Whoever has seen that at Tortingale, and those at 
Kincardine in Perthshire, and al llimley Hall in Statlbrdshire, 
will allow an aged yew to be a very picturesque tree." The 



NURSERY AND PLANTING, 



133 



former of these trees we have more than once measured, and 
found it to exceed fifty-seven feet in circumference, an increase 
of about five feet since 1770 ; about which time it was mea- 
sured by the Hon, Judge Bari'ington, and by him stated to 
be fifty-two feet round. 

As an ornamental tree, the yew has considerable preten- 
sions, and as such we find it generally admitted into the best 
laid out pleasure-grounds. It makes excellent hedges, and it 
appears to have been much more generally used for that pur- 
pose formerly than now. " No plant," says Sang, " is better 
adapted for underwood than the yew ; it will thrive under the 
drip of other trees equally with the holly. A grove of yew- 
trees, in a recluse coiner, would be a solemn passage to the 
grounds of a place. As the cypress in the East, the yew in 
Britain, has been appropriated to the decoration of sacred 
ground from time immemorial : it is therefore a fit accompa- 
niment to the temple and the mausoleum." Such appear to 
have been the ideas of our forefathers, and hence we find 
these trees in church-yards, and near places of worship, of a 
vast size, and often in considerable numbers, even in parts of 
the country where it is almost otherwise unknown. This cir- 
cumstance has been often noticed, but never satisfactorily 
accounted for ; some asserting that the branches of this tree, 
used on Palm-Sunday, and other days, for the decoration of 
churches, gave it a place near at hand; while others, with 
less probability of truth, suppose the yew to have been planted 
near churches to afford materials for cross-bows, should the 
congregation be surprised by an enemy. The sombre appear- 
ance of its dark green foliage may be supposed emblematical 
of eternity, and, like the cypress of the ancients, has given 
it a place near the resting-place of the dead. 

The yew ripens its berries, or seeds, annually with us in 
October, when they should be gathered and deposited in the 
rot-heap, mixed with sandy earth, and there left till the Sep- 
tember or November following, when they should be sown in 
beds of rich, well-broken mould, and should be allowed to 
remain in the seed-bed for two years before they be planted 
out into nursing-lines. Yews are also often increased by cut- 
tings, and sometimes by layers. Cuttings of the young wood 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



root freely ; and having been once rooted, they should be 
transplanted out into nursing beds or lines to attain sutHcient 
size, age, and strength, for final planting out. Yews will 
succeed, although planted of a large size, and such are 
often })hinted for particular purposes ; but, when extensive 
plantations are intended, plants from eighteen inches to two 
feet will always succeed best. It is l)ut seldom, if ever, that 
this tree is planted to any considerable extent with a view to 
attain a timber size; but, allhuugh a slow growing tree, cir- 
cumstances may warrant, in favorable situations, extensive 
plantations to be made, as the timber is valuable when of a 
large size, and of great durability. 



Oriental Plane. — {I*lalanus Orlentalus.) 

This is a very interesting and highly ornamental tree, and, 
although not suited for extensive cultivation in this country, it 
is nevertheless a tree which shouhl be found on every lawn, 
where any thing like decorative planting is attempted. It is 
sufficiently hardy to withstand our severest winters, and has 
stood those that have killed trees considered of a nmch hardier 
nature. The Oriental plane is a native of the Levant, from 
whence it was introduced here in 1518. The Romans intro- 
duced it from the same j)lace to Italy, and spared neither cost 
nor pains in its cultivation. Cicero and Hortensius Are said 
to have been so partial to this tree, that they spent much tmie 
in attending to its cultivation; and to such an extreme did they 
carry their regard for it, that they are said often to have 
poured wine to its root instead of water. This tree, in favor- 
able situations, ripens its seed in England, and is, by that 
means, increased by those who take the trouble of rearing 
trees from seeds. It is, however, by far the most frequent, but 
less rational practice, to increase it by layers, which root freely, 
and make larger plants in less time than seedlings, but the 
former never make such fine trees as the latter. The seeds 
should be looked for in fine seasons in October, and gathered 
when ripe. They should be sown as soon after they are 
gathered as possible ; and if j)ut into a fine pulverized rich 
soil, will make their appearance indue time, in March or April 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



135 



following. When the process of laying is to be adopted, it 
should be done in October, and will, by the autumn following, 
be well rooted, when they should be taken off the stools, and 
planted out in nursery-lines to get strength. As the foliage 
of this tree is large, it is therefore necessary to allow it plenty 
of room in the nursery; say, from twenty inches to two feet 
between the lines, and from a foot to eighteen inches from 
plant to plant, in the line, i^llian, and other authors, have 
given strange accounts of this tree ; such as the etiect it had 
on Xerxes, at the head of his army, and his having medals of 
gold stamped with its figure, which he carried constantly 
about his person. The Licinian Platanus has been recorded to 
have exceeded eighty feet in circumference, and capable of 
accommodating within its trunk the Consul Licinius Mutianus 
and his retinue. It has not ever attained any extraordinary 
bulk in this country, and, considering its early introduction, 
may rather be considered a rare tree, particularly as it has not 
fallen a sacrifice to the severity from climate like the following. 



American Plane. — {Platanus Occidentalis.) 

A much tenderer species than the last, and introduced 
here from America, as the name implies, in 1610, about 
one hundred years after the Eastern Plane. This, like the 
last, attains an enormous size in their native countries, but 
with us can only be reckoned upon as a tree of the third or 
fourth class of magnitude, and limited to the lawn or more 
sheltered parts of the park. The almost general destruction 
of this species by frost, about the middle of the last century, 
and the partial loss of many others in 1809, have alarmed 
planters from propagating this tree so extensively as could 
have been wished. Many trees of this species, of a consider- 
able size, existed previously to the first of these disasters in 
many parts of England, as at Sion-House, Pain's-Hill, Kew, 
Stow, and some other places, but which fell a sacrifice to the 
inclemency of our climate. And, in 1809, almost all the trees 
of a large size of this species were killed, while those from 
twenty to twenty-five feet were not materially injured, and 
those of a smaller size were not injured at all. The v/mtcr's 



136 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



frost does not seem to injure them so much as the late Frosts 
in spring, and the occasional ones of summer, as was the case 
in ISOD, when the frost of June, which was unusually severe, 
just as the trees were coming into foliage. The leaves were 
killed, and the trees pushed, late in the season, into a second 
foliage and shoots, which were killed by an early autumn 
frost. The trees made an eflbrt to push in the spring follow- 
ing, but failing, finally languished and died. The seeds of 
this species ripen more freely in this country than the last 
species, and should be collected in October when they are ripe, 
and sown immediately, by this mrans plants are to ])c obtained 
in plenty ; but nurserymen seldom originate them by this 
means, and have recourse to the process of laying, and some- 
times by cuttings. Cuttings, if put in, in autumn, succeed 
pretty well, and may be by the autumn following expected to 
be sufficiently rooted for planting out into nursery-lines ; and 
layers, laid down in autumn, will also by the autumn following 
be sufficiently rooted to be fit to plant out in lines also. When 
cuttings are to be made use of for j)ropagating this tree, those 
slioots of the last season's growth which are well ripened 
should only be made choice of, and should be from nine to 
twelve inches in length. These, if planted in moderately rich 
ground, will root freely, and make fine plants. 



ORNAMENTAL PINES. 

Under this head may be included a number of extremely 
curious and interesting species of the Pinus genus, which, 
cither from their delicate habits, diminutive growth, or other 
circumstances, render them unfit foi planting in the general 
plantations, and are generally admired and most in character 
whon planted singly on the lawn, or in systematic order in the 
arboratum, &c. So numerous and interesting is this genus, 
that they may be said to form of themselves a very complete and 
interesting collection, and as such have been exemplified at Drop- 
more, the seat of Lord Grenville, where there is the finest col- 
lection in cultivation in Europe, and contains fifty-two species, 
including the three species Araucaria, Cufini/ig/ia?fi}a, and 
Dam?nara, to which they are nearly allied, and which are 



NURSERY AND PLANTING. 



137 



of extremely interesting habits, and if naturalized into our 
pleasure-grounds, would materially alter their characters in a 
pictorial point of view. The majority of these are to be pro- 
pagated from seeds imported from their native countries, 
when they do not ripen with us; and when such cannot be 
obtained, recourse must be had to the usual modes of propa- 
gation, namely, by layers and cuttings, and probably some 
species might be increased by grafting or inarching. Seeds 
are the natural mode of propagation, and always succeed best, 
and make by far the finest trees. But seeds of many of the 
rarer species are difficult to be procured, and some lose their 
vegetative property before they can reach this country. 

Several species of this genus will strike roots by cuttings, 
but they seldom form a leading shoot to give them the charac- 
ter of a future tree. Such is the case with Pinus lanciolata, 
now Cunninghamia lanclolata, which may be said to root by 
cuttings freely, not one in ten of such plants, if left to them- 
selves, will ever form a proper leader. It has been suggested, 
and indeed almost proved, that plants so originated when cut 
down to the collar, or to that part which may be said to divide 
the root from the stem will shoot out proper shoots from which 
a leader may be selected, and which will form a future tree. 
The celebrated Araucaria excelsa, when propagated from a 
cutting, the only method of increasing it in this country, con- 
tinues little other than a branch, but is said to be completely 
altered in its character by a similaf process. It has also 
been suggested, that if those plants which have been increased 
in this manner be laid down at their whole length, and their 
principal stem bent so as that several parts of it will protrude 
through the surfoce, that upright shoots will be sent up from 
such parts that will form proper leaders ; when such is the 
case, and when the parts under ground have emitted sufficient 
roots, they should be separated by cutting the original leading 
branch into pieces, each of which will form a future tree. So 
desirable a tree as this, and one that, if once acclimated to 
our sheltered lawns, would be so very ornamental, deserves all 
our care in order to propagate it, and likewise to protect it 
should it once be increased. One of this genus, A. imbricala, 



138 



THE PRACTICAL GARDENER. 



lias for several years stood out in the Royal Gardens at Kew, 
and has only to be seen to be admired. 

CunningJunuia lanciolataj of which the annexed wood-cut 
engraving is a very faithful representation, and drawn on the 
spot expressly for this work, has stood out in the pleasure- 
grounds at Claremont for twelve years, and one of them has 
attained the height of sixteen feet, and nearly as much in 
diameter through the branches, and is supposed the finest 
specimen in the kingdom. 




I^inits longifolia, a native of the East-Indies, has stood 
out at Dropmure seven or eight years; n sis, a na- 



NURSING AND PLANTING. 



139 



tive of China; P. ccmaricnsis is from the Canai'y Ishuids; 
P. excelsUi from Nepal, in the same collection, are thriving 
trees. 

There are many others, although sufficiently hardy to stand 
unprotected in our climate, that are almost unknown to the 
generality of our pleasure-grounds, of these may be noticed 
the Hemlock Spruce, P. canadensis^ fi'ora North-America, 
where it attains a very great size, both in altitude and dia- 
meter, but with us only that of a large shrub or very dwarf 
tree. It is exceedingly ornamental, but to be such requires 
to be planted in rather a moist and shaded situation. In dry 
exposed places, it seldom looks healthy, and is apt to divide 
into too many irregular branches, and seldom to attain a 
leader amongst them. It is propagated by seeds, which are 
imported annually from America, and should be sown in 
March or April, in finely prepared, rich, light mould, in shal- 
low boxes or pans, and placed in a frame or shaded situation. 
During summer, they should be regularly supplied with water, 
and the spring following the sowing they may be transplanted 
out into lines, at the distance of one foot apart, and six inches 
apart in the line. If it be wished to obtain large plants of 
this species, they will require to be once or twice taken up 
during their stay in the nursery, and again tran-n!anted, 
allowing more room between the plants each time. 

The Pinus ceinhra, Siberian stone-pine, is also a rare 
plant, comparatively speaking, in our pleasure-grounds, and 
exceedingly ornamental in all its stages of growth, parti- 
cularly when it attains a considerable size. It is of slow 
growth in all situations, but sufficiently hardy, as its name 
implies. It is propagated from seeds, which are occasionally 
imported, and there is reason to hope that a sufficient supply 
may be yet obtained from tr^es in our own country. Such 
trees as those at White Knights, Claremont, and Powis 
Castle, are very likely to produce seeds, as they have attained 
both size and age sufficient to lead us to expect such a result. 



no 



TlIK I'll AC l ie AL GARDEN Kit. 



J Calculation of the number of Plants requisite to plant an Enylish 
acre of ground, according to their sorts and sizes ; the plants 
at the under-mentioned distance. Also, the number of rods, 
yards, and feet, when let to labowrcrs to trench, or to prepare 
for planting. 



Fc<t apart. No. of PlanUi. Feet apart. No. of Plants. 

1 43,560 10 435 

U 19,300 11 360 

2 10,890 12 302 

2| 6,969 13 267 

3 4,840 14 222 

31 3,556 15 193 

4 2,726 16 170 

4i 2,232 17 160 

5 1,742 18 134 

6 1,210 19 120 

7 889 20 108 

8 680 25 69 

9 537 30 48 

\i\ Eiif^lisli acre contains 1(>0 rods or pole«, 4,840 yards, 
43,560 feet. 

Ill planling ii])un an extensive scale, the ground is generally pre- 
pared by task-work : draining by the rod ; trenching by the acre, 
rod, or jxde ; and planting sometimes by the liiindred or thousand, 
and also by the rod or acre. The prej)aration of the ground may 
almost always be with economy done in this manner ; but in regard 
to planting, at least puttinc^ in the trees, it may be expected to be 
better done by day -work. The pits or holes, however, when the trees 
are so large as to recpiire that mode of planting, may be done by the 
hundred, thousand, or by the acre, pole, &c. 

In purchasing hardy trees or shrubs, the fonner, particularly 
forest-trees, are bought by the thousand, when small ; by the hun- 
dred, when larger ; and, when very large, by so much per tree. Shrubs 
of the most common kinds are purchased by tlie thousand or hun- 
tlred ; and when new, rare, or expensive, by (he individual. 



TH£ END. 



INDEX 
TO THE SUPPLEMENT. 



Acorns, ou the sowing of, 109. 
Alder, management and culture ot the, 
59. 

American plane, cultivation of the, 135. 
American spruce firs, propagation of 
the, 119. 

Ash, management and culture of the, 
62. 

Autumnal treatment of tropical plants, 
32. 



Balm of Gilead fir, propagation of the, 
119. 

Bark-stove, on the construction of the, 2. 
Beech, management and culture of the, 
66. 

Birch, management and culture of the, 
70. 

Black Italian poplar, description of the, 
126. 



Cactus Grandiflora, description of the, 8, 
( "alculation of the number of plants re- 
quisite to plant an English acre of 
gruund, 140. 
( 'edar of Lebanon, propajgation of the, 
120. 

Cherry or gean, management and cul- 
ture of the, 73. 

Chestnut, management and culture of 
the, 74. 

Construction of the bark-stove, 2. 
Construction of the dry-stove, on the, 7. 



Destruction of insects, 24, 27, 34. 
Dry-stove, on the construction of the, 7. 



Elm, management and cultujr»,of the, 
79. * 

I'. numeration of the principal genera of 
hot- house and tropical plants, 35. 

Extracting the seeds from the cones of 
tl>e pinus family, 100. 



Forest-tree nursery, on the formation 
of a, 50. 

Formation of a forest-tree nursery, 50. 



General culture of tropical plants, 22. 



Hawthorn, cultivation of the, 84. 

Hawthorn hedges, management of, 88. 

Hemlock spruce, cultivation of the, 139, 

Holly, cultivation of the, 89. 

Holly-seeds, directions for sowing, 90. 

Hornbeam, cultivation of the, 93. 

Horse-chestnut, management and cul- 
ture of the, 78. 

Hot-house or tropical plants, an enu 
meration of the principal genera of, 
35. 

Huntingdon willow, cultivation of the, 
130. 



Insects, destruction of, 24, 27, 34. 
Introduction to nursery and planting, 
47. 

Introduction to stove department, 1. 

Laburnum, cultivation of the, 95. 
Larch, on the cultivation of the, 97. 
Larch-seeds, time of sowing, 102. 
Lime, cultivation of the, 104. 
Locust-tree, cultivation of the, 94. 
Loudon's (Mr.) improvements on tro- 
pical aquariums, 10. 



Maple, cultivation of the, 106. 



Nursery and planting, introduction to, 
47. 



Oak, cultivation of the, 106. 
Oriental plane, cultivation of the, 134. 
Ornamental pines, cultivation of, 136. 



142 



INDEX. 



iMne, cultivation of the, 111. 
IMane, cultivation of the, 123. 
Ptij)lar, cultivation of the, 12.J. 
Poplar, propagation of the, 127. 
Preliminary observations on forest-trees, 
58. 

Propagation of tropical plants, on the, 
11. 

Propagating tropical plants by cuttings, 
15. 

Preserving tropical plants out of the 
stove, 31. 



Rise and Progress of Gardening, from 
the earliest period to the present 
time, Vol. I. ix. 



Scotch fir, cultivation of the, 112. 

Seeds of the cedar, care of the, 121. 

Seeds from the cones of the Piiius fa- 
mily, method of extracting, llX). 

Shifting tropical plants, 28. 

Siberian stone-pine, cultivation of the, 
139. 

Silver fir, propagation of the, 116. 

Species of oaks, enumeration of the dif- 
ferent, 111. 

Spruce (»r Norway fir, propagation of 
the, 1 18. 

Stove aquarium, on the, 9. 



Stove Department, General Manage- 
ment of the, 1. 

Stove-plants in general, winter treat- 
ment of, 22. 

Summer treatment of tropical plants, 
2,5. 

Sycamore, cultivation of the, 123. 



Temperature of the plant-stove, 22, 26. 

Tropical aquariums, Mr. Loudon's im- 
provements on, 10. 

Tropical plants, shifting, 28. 

Tropical plants by cuttings, on propa- 
gating, l.j. 

Tropical plants, on the propagation of, 
11. 



Ventilation of plant-stoves, 24, 26, 34. 



Walnut, cultivation of the, 128. 
Watering stove plants, 23, 26, 33. 
Weymouth pine, cultivation of the, 
122. 

Willow, cultivation of the, 130. 
Winter treatment of stove plants in ge- 
neral, 22. 



Yew, cultivation of tlie, 132. 



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